The Shoe Snob - Unboxing Series - Stefano Bemer 'Classica' Collection

[@WeltedWare]

Beautiful shoe, BTW

[@theshoesnob_official]

Agreed. One of the best derbies I have seen.

[@elevatedsupernova]

A beautiful derby! I can see the groundwork for your inspiration in the unique details in everything from the box, burnishing and even certain cuts. Your style is all your own but I can definitely see how your house styles grew from the house of Stefano Bemer.

[@theshoesnob_official]

Thank you for your comment and support! Yes, my eye for design was heavily influenced by my time there :-)

[@wallstruss9763]

Great video, not really sure why your channel never popped up on my feed before now but I’m glad it did.

[@theshoesnob_official]

Thank you I appreciate it. The algorithms are out to get me ;-)

[@tonydeltablues]

Robust but still maintaining an elegance. Loved them as soon as you took them out of the bags! I've booked travel to London on May 7th for the Trunk show....looking forward to it and might see you there ;-) Tony

[@theshoesnob_official]

I shall be there Tony so make sure to say hello!

[@tonydeltablues]

@@theshoesnob_official Will do!

[@philclinton9430]

Own a pair of Nettleton Derby's split toe apron style and these are my only double oak sole shoes I own. Agreed, the Derby shoes are a great platform for the double sole and I can't put my finger on it, arguably the blucher style does have a marginally less formal look compared with the oxford. I do enjoy the added height the double oaks lend to my stature, in addition to wearing a handsome robust shoe.

[@theshoesnob_official]

Thank you for sharing Phil!

[@jamomyke]

That is a nice semi-minimalist design. Simple and handsome. That double sole enhances the profile nicely. I was just wondering why the leather on outer side does not look as smooth and flawless as I would expect.

[@theshoesnob_official]

Probably the camera quality. Even I shoot in 4k for some reason it never transfers well to YT. The leather was flawless and perfect grain.

[@galou0090]

Hi Justin! I'm loving St. Crispin's classic rounded last, maybe you could review a pair of their shoes? Could you give me some less expensive alternatives than St. Crispins with a similar aesthetic last wise? I like very classic, rounded shoes

[@theshoesnob_official]

Happy to do any unboxing really. Its mainly a matter of getting the shoes.

[@BadBart2217]

Question sir, what differentiates this from a blucher? I have a pair of bluchers and I noticed that they were also essentially wholecut aside from the pieces attached at the eyelets. Thank you, I'm learning a lot!

[@theshoesnob_official]

Hello Bart, another poster asked this. Please see the comments below with 'Welted Ware'...there are several so find the one that talks about Blucher's. Thanks for watching and enjoying

[@damonqu6651]

Justin, do you size up half for these from your usual sizes?

[@theshoesnob_official]

Bemer runs large for me so I size down

[@WeltedWare]

Curious how much hand lasting (vs leather clicking vs fit of shoe on person, within reason -1/2 size or so, vs handwelting) affect how a leather creases.

[@theshoesnob_official]

I would be lying to try and tell you there is a difference that can be quantifiable. This discussion online of leather creasing is all hogwash IMHO. There is no pinpointing the rhyme or reason to creasing. I have seen the best fitting bespoke shoes handlasted etc with crazy creasing. I have seen all rules broken on creasing. I have seen thick leather crease just as bad as thin leather, bespoke just as bad as RTW etc. Creasing is inevitable. That is the only true statement I know.

[@viasartoria]

I believe Essenziale is the lower end while the Tradizione is the highest end line.

[@theshoesnob_official]

Yes you are correct. I was all confused there

[@viasartoria]

@@theshoesnob_official happens to the best of us! Beautiful shoes nonetheless.

[@WeltedWare]

Doesn't the way the facing is shaped, and not extneding into the side panel make it a "blucher"? It's something that really confuses me...

[@theshoesnob_official]

Blucher is the American name for Derby. Anything open facing is derby. I am not of the ideology that there is a difference whether a blucher is in fact a type of derby. No one uses "blucher" in Europe. Even if it is, for me it is still a derby. A blucher might be type of derby per se by some ideologies but a derby is still a derby. I dont necessarily say quarter brogue instead of oxford even if technically it is a quarter brogue as it is still an oxford. Guess it depends on how technical you want to be. For me, I never describe derbies as bluchers. Debry is more universal IMHO

[@WeltedWare]

@@theshoesnob_official Longwings are then a longwing derby?

[@theshoesnob_official]

@@WeltedWare no, because there are longwing oxfords too. But a longwing derby is a derby yes.

[@WeltedWare]

@@theshoesnob_official yeah, this is where I get hung up, becuase in my experience, the convention (whne looking for info, feedback, sales) is longwing blucher. Which got me looking into what the difference, as both feature open lacing systems...and those same sites that sell the LWB will list them under derbies, so in a sense, a blucher is a subset of Derby, I guess..

[@theshoesnob_official]

@@WeltedWare exactly. Derby is the blanket term, like oxford. You wont find non American sites ever using the word Blucher