The Strength you need to Climb 9c - Crack Edition

[@WideBoyz]

Need a crack to take the test? check out our Crack Trainer here wideboyz.com/product/crack-trainer-with-soft-grip/ find all the details of the test in the description

[@topf_toepfer]

Here go the wideboyz casually selling some crack online

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

The calculator bit was absolutely hilarious (and the rest was also great)

[@dave_h_8742]

1+1=2 +1=3 seconds 😂

[@WideBoyz]

Haha Yeh. Only randall could do something as daft as that! Having said that...it's not like I noticed either 😂

[@raiemie7365]

you two guys have such a chemistry its so funny

[@LogRobin]

Tom laughing at Pete’s fingers when he was in agony was brilliant 🤣. Not checking if Pete’s okay. Just making fun of his hands after Pete completely squeezed everything out of this test possible.

[@ripapa6355]

Did, the test. Got negative 17. Better than I expected.

[@creep245]

At 41 points right now, typing with my feet, still hanging in the crack cause I can't get my hands out. Seriously though, tremendous effort from both of you.

[@emilyscloset2648]

you beat pete by 5 points? on crack? Genunie question, what's your hardest sport route?

[@sessionmediaa]

This video made me smile for like 27 minutes straight!!!!

[@WideBoyz]

Thanks for the filming Pete!! always good to work together

[@sessionmediaa]

@@WideBoyz great pleasure as always!!! Super stoked with the results! Fab vid!

[@Cleeemoo]

You two Wide Boyz are strong!! But how about that "Good effort." tee shirt? In big letters on the back? Pretty pretty please?

[@alexsparhawk]

I almost died laughing at the cripple hand jam bit. Don’t take this the wrong way but your suffering is pure entertainment!

[@jasperray6576]

Tom's plaintive "that's already happening" during his hang was the funniest thing ever ahahaha

[@mathias5618]

Love how hard you guys are trying, color change on Pete's face at the 3min hang was absolutely insane

[@WideBoyz]

we were in pain on that last test, haha!!

[@danieljensen2626]

The bit where you pulled up the calculator instead of the stopwatch and neither of you noticed was hilarious. Peak wideboyz moment.

[@aries_9130]

Almost half an hour of the wide boyz, this saved my evening.

[@alexanderbrowningcompositi9730]

your suffering brought a big smile to my face, so thank you.

[@WideBoyz]

Excellent 😎 👍

[@dun3de]

Tough one - new 30min videos from both you and Magnus. Of course I had to go with yours. This was so good! Absolute beasts!

[@WideBoyz]

glad you enjoyed it and thanks for tuning in and watching :)

[@jakeweeks]

I recently tried a max hang on my (vertical) crack machine, and even though I was dynamically swapping thumbs up and thumbs down hand jams, I managed to pinch a nerve in both thumbs which left them feeling slightly numb for a couple weeks. After doing some research, it seems that hanging with thumbs down jams above head height puts a lot of pressure on those nerves. Be careful if you're going to repeat this test yourself and maybe work up to the max hang before you try all four exercises at once and go for your absolute limit, nerve damage is usually not permanent but you want to avoid it at all costs.

[@technomancer_066]

Oh my Ondra that calculator mix up at the beginning was unbelievable!!! pissing myself

[@mikerowland8004]

Once again, great video guys. Amazed how much Pete can suffer.

[@WideBoyz]

love suffering

[@eliskahandlirova6031]

Calculator, those faces while fighting for more and Pete's cripled fingers at the end :D best video!

[@psicologiageneraleconalleg369]

I just love how positive you two are! Always laughing

[@Placido.R.Bonnin]

Damn! Super effort you guys, and also Quite impressive quality of the crack itself, that thing held up fantastically even with the 140 plus kg jamming. Awesome. Great video :D

[@Nick-B78]

Pete seems to have the greatest level of tolerance towards pain and suffering compared to any climber other I’ve seen do this sort of stuff. Am I right?

[@WideBoyz]

love pain and suffering

[@xxconorcregan]

A banger of a video lads. Editing was great and unreal to see the Microphones.

[@WideBoyz]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@ironmaiden795]

I feel like for crack grades you need to do the test a number of time, each from a different jamming position and one from a foot jam thrn average out the scores for your final crack grade. Awesome stuff!

[@jacktrussler20]

I love that you've taken the initiative to do this!

[@dave_h_8742]

You pair of absolute BEASTS. Had sausage fingers like Pete's bringing home the shopping in carrier bags took a while to return to movable 😂

[@WideBoyz]

ah yes the shopping bag carry, haha. the sensation was very similar to that after doing the hang, but a bit more crippled

[@dave_h_8742]

@@WideBoyz Yer spuds and beans etc don't come near your body weight for 3.36.

[@WideBoyz]

@@dave_h_8742 😂

[@alfrednOObel2]

You guys are the only people in today's internet that actually make me laugh out loud! You are the heroes that the world needs!

[@WideBoyz]

haha excellent, glad its fun to watch

[@alecfisichella4908]

So cool! You should take it one step further and do each test with all the hand sizes (i.e. paddle hands - stacks) and average the scores. The ultimate crack test!

[@knexcoasterfreak]

When you get to laugh loudly through all of the video you know it is a good video :)

[@andrewwells1572]

Interesting to think that actually that level of fitness might actually transfer to an 8c+ crack... which would explain why a lot of sport climbers can do face routes a lot higher in grade than they can crack routes. Just goes to show that grades are very style dependent!

[@freddie_connor9202]

well the hardest crack to exist is 8c+ which pete did so we wouldn’t know 100% what’s accurate

[@JaketheMotorhead]

I like how it had to cut at 6:05 because it took so long for him to get up.

[@gekquad116]

Love the Ronnie Coleman references at the start

[@WideBoyz]

😂 lightweight, lightweight buddy 💪

[@dinkelhacker3235]

I wondered if anybody else got that xD

[@dave990]

Haha me too

[@BatuYangHidup]

Ain't nothing but a peanut

[@pedrosilva5771]

Hello, Love your videos!!! Keep it UP :) Just wanted to share some science correction needed on your second test, the Hand Jam Pull Up. Pete used a pronated hand jam and Tom used a supinated hand jam. Those two different hand jamming positions, use different group muscles for pulling up. However what it counts is the hand jamming hability to stick in the jamming, pulling up is not the same and also, the forearm muscles shift differently bettween supinated and pronated hand, which may also cause different capacity on holding the hand jam. Should try to repeat some of your testings taking this small details into consideration. Cheers Wide Boyz :)

[@tanmad21]

9c test on crack holds. Seems super human. Well done!

[@holliswilliams8426]

This is honestly really impressive.

[@ThrowingItAway]

I think you need more crack specific tests. different stances and positions that need to be held.

[@Fred-oz3tw]

What a positive atmosphere!

[@Pedigru]

Really good effort boys.

[@onebuck4u]

I discovered the stuck hand "perma-jam" near the top Direct Becky, Elephant's Perch...a long hard finger crack (not 9c... maybe 6c :). Hands were worked from the bottom many pitches... pulled hard on a jam, did the move, got a rest... and sat befuddled by my right hand stuck in a claw formation, refusing to operate.

[@Bobbzorzen]

this was a banger of an episode! loved every second of it!

[@WideBoyz]

amazing great to hear :) thanks for watching

[@jrblackify]

The main problem with this version of the test is that the weighted hang is supposed to be on a much harder hold than the weighted pullups! You guys did the same holds for both, making the pullup much harder than the hangs. :)

[@WideBoyz]

yep, they should in theory be different. we wanted to make it as simple as possible so other people would try it out though, that was our reasoning behind that, haha

[@xCorvus7x]

I think you overshot quite a bit by taking the numbers from the normal test, since jamming is fundamentally a lot harder than clinging onto a bar.

[@alcupone6462]

Weird, I feel now somewhat stoked to cripple myself to get with WB on some projects :D

[@stampatron]

"The longest 1 second hang of my life" Said the calculator

[@dave990]

The hand jam deadhang was super impressive by both guys. That must be so painful after 90 seconds

[@WideBoyz]

More just misery 😂

[@GavynPendleton]

That was absolutely amazing

[@WideBoyz]

thanks! glad you enjoyed it :)

[@ggreyshade]

"that was dubious wasnt it" "..yeah" LOL

[@WideBoyz]

hahah very dubious!!

[@meldepinda]

Woa nice scores! I'm just getting started in crack climbing, build a 3m vertical crack in my room but I cannot even reach the top yet... One day I will top out!

[@WideBoyz]

Cool! Good to hear of more home cracks 💪

[@meldepinda]

would you have any tips on numbing the feet before a session? It seems my feet kill me more then my hands

[@WideBoyz]

@@meldepinda tape on the toes gives a bit of padding for thinner cracks. But in general the feet warm into after a number of sessions. There is no real secret, just more getting familier with it. If I havet crack climbed for a while, the first few sessions back are always a bit uncomfortable, but it eases and gets much better with a bit of time, until it's not noticeable

[@meldepinda]

Many thanks for the guidance! Will put lots of mileage through it!

[@WideBoyz]

@@meldepinda don't go to distruction though 😅 carefully considered mileage is the key

[@miel_ap]

Sick effort! Still waiting for a "Crack is my jam" t-shirt guys

[@WideBoyz]

Paddle, ooreppilf is our next tee. But crack is my jam..I like tht!

[@Luco129]

"Jam is my crack" also works, bit more dodgy though.

[@mixcrimpcunningham4535]

😂 Laughed so hard, I almost choked. Thanks for that.

[@WideBoyz]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@silasmoe9841]

Look at how red your hands were!!! Oh my goodness.

[@blackline2000]

Magnus Mitbo you're not going to like this but make sure he does do it!

[@groeg1252]

Who else was pretty nervous about the metal bar on the bottom? I guess, I would have covered it with something soft, to prevent cracking my head open, while trying a front lever ^^

[@ryancampbell9803]

Good effort lads

[@disgruntledwookie369]

Opening the calculator instead of the clock. I can relate so much.

[@Rude_i_Wredne]

Damn, it was so close. Pete needs to just go and project a 9a crack route, he can do it, I believe!

[@Fearless0401]

I feel like you could have involved a foodjam there, maybe even for the core test. Great fun though, thanks!

[@nwg416]

Heading to the hardware store to build a crack trainer right now.

[@WideBoyz]

do it :)

[@dylanprendergast142]

It would be super interesting to see a standardized crack for data collection and training, as Lattice does with the rung.

[@ondrejkucera7714]

I love you guys, crippled hand jam :D Both laughing on it :D :D

[@devaayasharkattack521]

if you run out of paddle just turn your wrist! - the more you know - good effort!

[@Sam-us5ys]

3:36 + 14" = 4:00???? Maybe that works on the calculator :'D

[@AlexeiDrummond]

Not sure about the idea of using the same crack for both the weighted hang and weighted pull-up. In the original test these are a 20mm edge and a bar -- so very different. I would guess you would want something like perfect hands (including deeper than 15 cm) to represent a bar at it is the best possible hold. Then you can do something more funky (shallower, or not perfect hands) to represent a 20 mm edge, which after all is a good hold, but not great.

[@davide1997]

every day that passes I am more convinced that every single person in the world makes a Ronnie Coleman impression before lifting weights. it instantly gives 100% strength boost.

[@WideBoyz]

lightweight Buddy

[@iggimoore]

You two are awesome ;)

[@silasmoe9841]

count me in!!!!!

[@WideBoyz]

Get on it silas 💪😎

[@MusicScala]

You should have included some upside down foot jams, as they are also important in crack climbing. Compared to normal sportclimbing the legmuscles can actually get pumped 😅

[@MeeloOrg]

We need that calculator bit as a short clip to crack up some non-climbers :D

[@Nick-B78]

Bloody brilliant and so damn funny too. I always have to wonder though whether Tom’s at an advantage on the pull ups as he always seems to use a chin-up grip which uses the biceps more than a typical pull-up grip as Pete does 🤔

[@WideBoyz]

i think climbers tend to prefer palms away and none climber tend to prefer palms towards. tom did palms towards becuase a a niggly shoulder injury. palms towards bascially didn't niggle it

[@Nick-B78]

@@WideBoyz Doing it to stop aggravating an injury makes sense. I would still assume it’s an advantage though if the two techniques were compared against each other

[@sanderv941]

You guys Crack me up :)

[@WollocksMate]

That's a whole lotta jam.

[@MichaelFairhurst]

Nice test guys!! The core tests should clearly be done from some kind of invert, though! :)

[@peterlustig9554]

I got unexpected 17 What is more as on my first 9c strength test, but since them i have Trained a bit. Holding jams is easier for me then crimping Hard. I must also Repeat the other test.

[@WideBoyz]

solid work!!

[@theoutdoornovice7460]

got a 14, That is pretty spot on for what I climb. My crack is 2 1/4 inch wide tho

[@r0b1975]

Lolls that was cool! Think ya need to raise up your frame so legs can just dangle... Wicked cripple fingers ;)

[@danwallis1984]

Need Tom in the cellar with a new move, the hair flick back paddle flipparoo!

[@holygrailer6643]

The pull up seems terrifying the hand is just gonna pop.

[@climbingsnufkin]

You should have challenged specific people in the end :D I want to see Magnus try this

[@BeGravity4]

Great

[@rumperdumper]

Seems like straddle lever isn't really valid since it's flexibility dependent instead of representing an actual move. The one leg front lever represents reaching your foot out to a hold, but the straddle lever could theoretically approach the difficulty of a tucked lever for someone flexible enough.

[@MichaelFairhurst]

Yeah but hip flexibility is incredibly important for climbing, so I don't think this is actually an issue.

[@rumperdumper]

@@MichaelFairhurst The primary goal of the test is to measure core strength. That's why it went straight from an L-sit to a front lever. If the goal was just to measure back strength (the hardest part of a front lever by far), then it would have included one-leg front levers. Doing the splits minimizes both the back and core strength required and circumvents the entire strength based nature of the tests. As a real world example, imagine climbing feet first in a crack. You have to lift your feet far above your head. The splits are not the solution.

[@martinsvard89]

This is cracking me up xD

[@SuperKneehow]

If you do the pump test again on a fresh day feel like you’d get 4 mins. Try it again!

[@treeoflifeenterprises]

if the crack is higher up for the crack duration hang test can you last longer if you don't have to continue lifting your feet off the ground. maybe have a ledge on each side you for when you have to stop, but space directly below to allow to hang without having to raise your legs in the middle.

[@ralfrussel1950]

Tom and his squats :-) You should challenge someone directly. Maybe Magnus?

[@joshpyburn]

Your move, Magnus.

[@TonySpinach]

Man your hands looked like raw beef after that jam max hang lol

[@bongosock]

You English boys love your jam Goes great with tea and scones ;)

[@WideBoyz]

Jam first or cream first?

[@jawoable]

Suffering is good. It´s all training for something. Please make Tshirt

[@eloytoro]

WideBoyz "Good Effort" tshirt when?

[@pavolkupcak9414]

You've never climbed and climbed 9C done but can you take the 9C test? You're great guys.

[@Pietervanloon1996]

So what's the worst muscle ache Tom? Thumbs? Arms? Core? Or is it the legs from those weighted squats? ;)

[@zackgarcia5471]

If either of you fell when doing those weighted pull ups on that weight holder, you wouldnt be having children.. Such a great test to do!

[@WideBoyz]

good job Tom's already had them!!

[@נריזאביאדלר-ק8ג]

All of this look so much harder without a bar

[@davesmith1588]

I think the flaw with this test is only using one size of crack, Last time my local wall put a crack up it fit my hand so well I could hang from it easily one handed. A couple of millimeters wider and there's no way I would have been able to do that. A 9c crack would probably have a horrible mix of widths

[@WideBoyz]

yes you're right, it's an incredibly simple test, and much iek the orginal 9c test, gives you a veryyyyyyyy vague understanding of where your crack ability might be. It takes very little consideration of any technique, much like the original 9c test

[@Zraknul]

"We're like twins, separated at birth, by ten years." Your poor mother.

[@kevinlyon9501]

9c crack sufferfest, I can't even do that on bar let alone a crack. Seriously impressive boys.

[@WideBoyz]

the max time hanging from a jam, was certainly more of a sufferfest than a bar

[@GattMiffin]

What about the max wide pony dead hang?

[@clown5911]

Damn, Pete's hands were so red 😂

[@tristanmayfield4851]

If paddlehand is the most transferable of crack grips, why not do the test with that instead?

[@WideBoyz]

we wanted to do it with a crack size that most other people would have access to. And I think when people build home cracks they generally have a perfect hands

[@easteregg8699]

i need more crack in my life

[@JasonWilliams84]

Are his hands stained from the gloves at the end or is that all the blood rushed in? Or bruises? Crazy effort Pete.

[@WideBoyz]

mixture of everything probably