The Truth About Doweling Concrete Slabs!

In this episode of Concrete Edge on Deco-Crete TV, Jeff dives into the age-old question: when should you dowel concrete slabs together? With insights and practical advice, Jeff navigates the complexities of slab connections, addressing key considerations such as foundation type and environmental factors. Whether you're a seasoned contractor or a DIY enthusiast, this episode provides valuable guidance on ensuring the longevity and stability of your concrete projects. Don't miss out on this essential knowledge - watch now and elevate your concrete game!
If you are looking for more hands-on training, we offer training classes periodically that offer many more tips and techniques that will give you confidence on the job. Check out dates and pricing here: www.deco-crete...

[@coryhanneman3345]

That little office snippet actually made me laugh out loud. Nice work, fellas!

[@DecoCreteTV]

Hahaha.....Thanks Cory!!! Have a great weekend! 👊

[@Aqufrank]

Every commercial project I’ve been on requires floating slabs to be tied into building with dowels at all door openings. Without that, how are you supposed to prevent frost from heaving the slab to the point the door doesn’t even open? Your example works because your slab is 2” below your door threshold and you have the room but that is not ADA compliant and on commercial projects your sidewalk needs to meet with the finished floor of the building.

[@DecoCreteTV]

Thanks for the feedback! If it's spec'd for the job, then you have to do it! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!

[@GrumpyAndCricket]

Great info. Have a fun weekend.

[@DecoCreteTV]

You too, brother!!! Thanks for the comment!✌️

[@Epwnzer]

Attended the expo this year for the first time and it was great! Looking forward to the next one for sure. Anyways, when it comes to pinning into foundations, we always pin at the bottom of the slab (top of the gravel base) so that the slab cannot settle, but still can move up. What are your thoughts?

[@DecoCreteTV]

Thanks for the comment! Glad to hear you enjoyed the expo!! Pinning into the foundation underneath the slab is a good way to keep the concrete from settling. We used to do that on steps and every now & then on patios. We would put the pins just under the top of the gravel base, so the concrete wouldn't actually touch them. The important thing is that the slab itself is not tied to the foundation. We ended up switching to a piece of angle iron on steps, and it works great. Here's a link to our Technique of the Week video on it. Thanks for watching!!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/nnakm6Sqjqd_ipo

[@Epwnzer]

@@DecoCreteTV nice, I like that! Thanks for sharing

[@xy404]

should i use expansion foam to separate the drivewway from the gutter? or should i just drill into the gutter and put in 3/8 rebar and tie it into the exisiting rebar ?

[@DecoCreteTV]

Thanks for the comment! This could work either way and there is no real right or wrong. I would check with some other concrete contractors around your area, just to see how they are handling this kind of situation. We would normally use expansion joint for that, and avoid tying into the curb & gutter. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!

[@henryfehr6202]

When i dowel 2 slabs together i aleays use epoxy coated rebar dowels. Concrete always shrinks a bit and your going to get moisture in between causing the rebar to rust.

[@DecoCreteTV]

Thanks for the comment!!!

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

Ive walked on the slabs at yur shop

[@DecoCreteTV]

Thanks Bobby!! We always love hearing from you! Have a great weekend, brother!!👊

[@TheRetroGamingPrincess]

Here's a bit of weird question, so I have a pre existing barn, the barns foundation is stationary, but given its original use case its entirely slanted towards the middle as thats how they used to keep the hogs back in the 1960s. Now I require to add concrete ontop of this existing mess to create a level workshop floor. Would I just use expansion joints around the border and then tie my floating middle slabs in together? being an INTERIOR pour its also different but working with well over 50 year old pour i feel I will be learning a lot of things that most people won't ever run into. I don't mind some lips happening because nothing is ever static and perfect, but i do not want something i cannot Dolly working pieces over size of a lip between the "exterior" barn pour and my current projected slabs. Am I thinking about this correctly using your tips?

[@DecoCreteTV]

Thanks for the comment! This is defiantly a unique situation. The best thing would to remove all the old concrete and repour it. Pouring on top of existing concrete can work, but it comes with it's own set of challenges. Most full depth concrete mixes would need to be at least 2" thick. If you can bring the perimeter up 2" and fill the middle in, that would be one thing. But, 2" in the middle and trying to feather it out to nothing on the edges won't work verry good. If you are able to get enough coverage over the existing slab, than definitely use expansion joint around the perimeter. For the concrete itself, most contractors use would isolate the two slabs. Either with plastic or a layer of sand. Trying to bond the two slabs together would probably lead to some problems down the road. The other option would be to use floor leveler over the existing slab instead of pouring ready mix concrete. Our Flat Top product would work well for this, it just gets a bit expensive if you have to go really thick with it. I'll leave a link to the page on our website. Hopefully, this helps! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/overlay-mixes-repair-prep-products/flat-top

[@dougdavis8986]

No need to put in stupid TV clips. It doesn't enhance your video.

[@antonioherrera1324]

Maybe watch less tv,

[@DecoCreteTV]

Thanks for the feedback!!