The Truth On The Burr in Sharpening

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Sharpening system I use: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4u2fX56pNF2eLc Sharpening under the microscope: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mmKce5Kcmdmod7c Plates I use: www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening

[@GizmoDuck_1860]

I say this not to boast, this is relevant. I hold two diplomas and a certificate of higher education in furniture making and design. I've been in college learning this for about 3/4 years, and I'm not young, I'm mid-late thirties, and *no one* has explained sharpening like this to me. Thank you for taking the time to share with us

[@ChaimbenKalman1]

Thirties, eh...wait until you try to figure this out in your 60's!

[@UserNameAnonymous]

I've been struggling with it for a couple years now. It's always discussed as being something so simple that it barely needed mentioning. It made me feel kinda stupid for having so much trouble. No youtuber has really gone into depth about it. This video gave me flashbacks to problems I've had, like "so THAT'S what I did wrong!" James's scientific-but-not-dogmatic approach is perfect for stuff like this. And he's awesome for answering a viewer question. A+ content.

[@nanettil]

Ahhaaa! Don't touch the flat until it is stroptime, just the bevel! Oh, boy, it makes so much sense. So many thanks, mr. Wright.

[@levilam522]

There are just simple things that are never explained by experts because they take them for granted that everyone should know this stuff... Thanks

[@andrewirvine6444]

Leaving the burr until it is worn away to a thin film is so obvious -but only after you explained it. This will save me loads of work. Thank you.

[@frankcaico9355]

Everyone else already said it but cant be overstated - even if you know how to sharpen fairly well, this is a GREAT explanation of whats going on! Absolutely essential if you want to figure out the best way to sharpen. You really broke it down well.

[@Yupppi]

Oddly enough I've watched many knife sharpening info videos, about mechanics and geometry including burr, but somehow this felt like something clicked even though I supposedly knew this already. Left me feeling like I had gained a bit of knowledge that improves my sharpening in practice.

[@dereksmith2910]

In one of the books written by James Krenov, he discusses tool sharpening. Paul Sellers also has a video on sharpening plane irons. What I enjoy most about your videos is how you go the extra yards in explaining what is happening at the molecular level. Using a microscope to present the changes occurring at the chisel's edge is just great. Thank you.

[@bretloucks3370]

Great explanation. It does freak me out a bit when you wildly gesticulate while holding the edge up close to your moving hand. Sometimes when working with chisels, a mysterious cut will appear on one of my fingers. I could swear I never touched the edge, but I can’t deny the blood!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That's the fun of working with a camera it compresses the field and it makes everything look like it's closer than it is.

[@kenny-anjanettehorn7722]

I was very thankful when James taught me about the “too big a burr”. Completely elevated my sharpening!

[@nickmastro9287]

I have watched so many videos on how to sharpen but your video boils it all down so that it is clear to understand. I always wondered why I sometimes don’t get a burr but yet the blade is sharp. In your video you clearly explain why that is and like you said, I don’t sweat over it anymore. Also after watching your other video on how to free-hand sharpen, I trained myself and now that is all I do. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@jccote6059]

Clear no nonsense explanation

[@adrianpaterson9904]

Thank you for reminding us to keep it simple. I think it's all too easy to get obsessed with sharpening and go for that ultimate sharpness. But, in the end, it's all about getting it sharp enough as quickly as possible so that you can get on with what you're doing.

[@tommoeller7149]

I appreciate the message that sharpening to excess is ultimately a diminishing return on one's time investment. Certain celebrities recommend sharpening to such extremes as they hawk their incredibly expensive super fine grit stones. I believe that to be fundamentally unscrupulous. It makes me appreciate your honesty about what actually works, and why.

[@richardblackmore348]

Absolutely. The problem with super sharp is that by definition the edge is super fragile so after a few cuts with the tool the edge fractures and simply becomes sharp and you've wasted a lot of time. Personally I just use a very hard fine oil stone and a strop with honing compound. I get a nice burr in a few strokes which I take off with the strop, job done. Because it is so quick I can maintain the edge with frequent sharpening. I only use coarser stones or diamond plates or even a hand grinding wheel when I am restoring a blunt or chipped edge.

[@richpeggyfranks490]

I'll jump on the bandwagon - this is the best explanation of the mechanics of sharpening I've ever seen. Like others, I've been woodworking for decades. I have sharpened my planes and chisels hundreds (thousands?) of times and have always been baffled why I would occasionally encounter an edge that needed to be redone. Or, after following my sharpening procedure, the edge was still too dull. I have a much better understanding of what's going on after watching your video. Thanks.

[@jimbo2629]

Very informative. I learnt a lot. I’ve only been at it for 60 years.

[@flowleopard893]

The burr is always spoken about in passing. I appreciate this video for being the first that I have seen dedicated to the burr. I do believe this to be the most thorough explanation on KZbin, and it has saved me a lot of sharpening time in future. Thanks for the info!

[@JamesBrown-yn7xr]

My first level college course the chipie taught the simplest quickest techniques which I hated. But in hindsight considering the audience was kids just starting in site building carpentry it was actually quite good. Sharpen (only 1 stone availiable) then when you get the flippy floppy burr (Cheap soft chisels). Then slice the chisel across the wood block holding the stones. This scoring across softwood would strip away the burr.

[@groggjoggarn]

These kind of videos are the reason I hold you in the highest regard amongst them online woodworkers. Thank you for sharing your insight and promoting understanding and reflection. I believe you just provided me the tools to understand some recent setbacks of mine. Cheers and thanks a lot!

[@TomBuskey]

This is the first time I've seen sharpening explained by the state of the burr. It sounds like a good simple way to check how well you're sharpening. I'll pay more attention. Thanks

[@ilikewaffles3689]

I've been sharpening for a few months now and can get consistently shaving sharp edges. But I learned quite a bit from this video simply because of the use of the microscope. I really wished you had included a microscope shot after stropping just to visualize the effects of the strop on the burr. Mainly to confirm that the burr is, in fact, being removed and the burr isn't just getting finer and finer. Nevertheless, your microscope shots and those from "the science of sharp" website have been truly enlightening. I especially appreciate your microscope video (as opposed to pictures). Thank you.

[@nickhewett8815]

Great explanation. I would also add that applying too much pressure on the strop can bend or round off the microscopic edge you've just worked so hard for.

[@Snapshot3]

This is one of the best, most digestible sharpening videos ive seen.

[@vercingetorix721]

Thanks for this. Trying to figure this stuff out on your own is frustrating and intimidating

[@garetthoffman617]

If you want a really big visual of this - semi freese a block of sharp cheddar, the standard ones that are 3/.75/6 ish. Try to sharpen that on your grater like you would a plane blade. Usually you have a coarse and fine side as well to help. Youll get a cheese burr. Its actually helpful to me to see that to understand how to get rid of or deal w the burr

[@smtitmas]

I don't think I've ever heard an explanation of the burr quite like the one you just shared here. It was definitely a fresh approach with in depth reasoning. Good stuff, and it has widened my perspective on sharpening. Thxs for posting this.

[@AlexM3J]

That was a very insightful explanation! I will now stop taking the burr of early and making it large. Thank you!

[@KarlBunker]

Cool. Very clear explanation and nice clear microscope shots. It was neat seeing that burr actually bending back and forth under your finger.

[@warrenmunn3224]

We've got plenty of Burr's here at the moment, frosts the last week so very Brrrr

[@aaronyoung8301]

I know chisels aren't the same as knives, and things get more complicated with knives and similar tools, but this does teach a lot more than what I've learned over years of learning and practicing whetstone sharpening. This goes in much more detail than what I've developed; the "you'll just know when you did it right" technique... which can get you in trouble at times.

[@TatsukiHashida]

7:14 this is the first time I realized that I had too thick of a burr. And was scratching the strop, thanks so much for explaining it to me might be able to get a better edge now!

[@meatcreap]

This makes so much sense, yet I've never given this topic a second thought!

[@MarkBenge]

gave me an aw hawww moment. when you said "this is the only time i touch the flat in my sharpening system" that makes so much sense. thanks

[@SimonWillig]

I like your practical approach: enough is enough - don't go crazy. There is enough craziness in the world😊. Thank you!

[@skippylippy547]

Thank you! I learned a lot here.

[@JBuck-cu7xd]

Best video on sharpening I have ever seen! Thank you James. You’ve elevated my understanding on what is happening on a molecular level. This will change my technique for sure.

[@richardnelesen3020]

Thanks for making sense of the burr, and how its size matters. I have a better understanding of why my sharp is inconsistent.

[@trentholmes1]

This is great info that should help a lot of people learn how to get a sharp edge.

[@neilhawkins1]

I still use a honing guide but aim to spend a day free hand sharpening on my inferior chisels to see if it’s something I can do.Yourself,Paul Sellers and Rob Cosman can’t be wrong.I thank you for your educational efforts in spreading the gospel of hand tool woodworking.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Freehand sharpening is a skill that takes time to learn, but once you put in the effort it is amazing how east sharpening becomes.

[@kimmosaarinen2780]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Time to master perhaps but easy to start. I started freehand sharpening right away when I got my tools some year ago. Old and used but good tools, some cheap metaldiamondstone thingys and ta-daa, soon I got sharp chisels, planes and whatnot. You, Paul Sellers, Rob Cosman, Rex Krueger and some other hand tool channels have been good teachers and source of inspiration for many things.

[@karledman4625]

You explained the burr and shsroen theory that removes the burr and I learned somethings and will use them One thing, I thinks needs to be said is the sharpening technique that prevents rounding over the edge. I believe many people have this problem and don't know it and get frustrated with sharpening. I would like to see you address that in the same manner you address the burr. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills.

[@andhaskins]

Understanding steel through how it reacts and creates a burr was super helpful and will tell me more about the steel im personally using, so thanks!!

[@dcarrier14]

Excellent, I need to stop overthinking my process.

[@hubrigant]

Thank you. I can't wait for the spreadsheet.

[@JeanMinutile]

Great video as always, I knew the burr was important most sharpening videos talk about it but few are going to this level of detail and really explain what is a good burr and how it leads to a better edge. Once again thanks for sharing your knowledge 😉

[@robjackson3323]

Thanks for the clarification. It came at just the right time as in the process of sharpening my new chisels

[@JamesSmith-su3oz]

Over the top video. This is the first-time I have found a simple explanation of two planes that come together. Thanks.

[@kennethbezanson4266]

Excellent detailed explanation. The difference when you ran your finger along the edge under microscope was very beneficial!

[@michaelthys4000]

This is a great video. Talking about the burr and how to get rid of it by sharpening the point really helps to explain what we are trying to do and what to feel and look for. One of your best.

[@JakeRaytheRounder]

I was just cutting in some bowties into some soft wood and going through this process before every new one. I like the if it slices softer wood I must've done something right for once attitude and try to repeat that.

[@MarkBenge]

i really appreciate your attention to detail. the micro shots really help. + love what you said at end. May the Burr be with you :-)

[@danmichaud580]

This video was so much a learning experience for me. Learned something new today. TY.

[@professor62]

EXCELLENT vid, James! Has a lot of helpful info. In fact, it strikes me that this could become a classic how-to-sharpen video. Thank you very much!

[@christopherharrison6724]

Very clear precise description

[@stufarnham]

You answered a question that has been bugging me for years. Some KZbin sharpening gurus remove the burr at esch step, and some at the end. No one ever explained why; i suspect they were just repeating what they were taught. I was taught to remove it at each step, and by golly Imdid. Your explanation makes sense to me, and I am going to change my evil ways and see if it makes a difference.

[@adriftandatpeace]

Great explanation. This is similar to Brian Boggs philosophy on sharpening, though his approach is to avoid creating a bur at all.

[@PatNetherlander]

Thank James. Very helpful. As always !

[@giveemtheboot5123]

Excellent description. I am going to try this approach

[@twisterwiper]

Wow. That was a really good explanation! Very informative. Thanks!

[@TodorTashev]

Very informative and helpful video. Thank you!

[@punkrockviking]

This is extremely helpful! Thank you!

[@stevelloyd897]

Big takeaway for me is that the shiny strip is the bur. I’ve been thinking that I don’t have the new edge right out to the tip. Going to save me a lot of time and steel.

[@emoisit]

Thank you. That explains some things I was seeing but didn't understand yet. Keep the great videos coming.

[@BillHannah]

Thanks for this! Helps explain what I was finding with inconsistent sharpness... I was making the burr too big on the course stone. This should really help me get a better edge.

[@revrinn1324]

I really found this helpful. Thank you

[@richs5422]

Thanks, these are good details to know. I'm getting there with sharpening, but am not great yet. This will likely help.

[@gunterbecker8528]

Well done mate and thanks for the help !

[@sneezingfrog]

Best explanation I've seen on this topic.

[@JuanRivera-wm2um]

Excellent research and presentation.

[@pitsnipe5559]

Excellent tutorial on practical sharpening.

[@pablolichtig2536]

Thanks! It was way more interesting than I expected

[@williamang9649]

I understand now what's happening on microscopic, I can't say I wasn't being to hard on myself to learn sharpening but what's learned is learned I can take it easy now. I mean it's a constant reminder to be happy have have fun as it's what's most important but I always believe I must to things proper. I didn't give up and I learned but the cost is...I have a bunch of people worry about me 😅.

[@ssrattus]

Thanks James!

[@rymegkasri]

Thanks for the video! Interesting as always.

[@dpmeyer4867]

thanks

[@seansmart3440]

Great video. Thanks!

[@woodyk5127]

Thank you for posting this video. One question I have is that I am told that burr is your indication to move to the next finer grit. So, I keep on grinding till I see a burr and then I remove the burr and move to the next grit. Also, on coarse diamond at 300 grit, I work till I have a huge burr and then work the chisel on the other side to remove burr. The net result is my edge never really that sharp. Watching your video, my understanding now is that I should not worry about removing the burr whenever I move to the next finer grit. Instead, I should verify that my burr is getting smaller with every next finer grit and then take whatever burr left at the last grit I am using. Also, do you teach virtual online class on how to sharpen tools like chisels and hand planes? I would be very much interested in taking such class. Look forward to hearing from you. Thank you

[@theeddorian]

One consideration that affects how I deal with the burr and the chisel back is my own set up which is a plywood box I made to suspend a water stone in. These days I use diamond plates, but the same box. Because it is elevated I have good access to both faces of the chisel. So, I generally do the bevel until I feel the burr - or wire edge . Then I flip it, lay about an inch of the back on the stone, and with two or three strokes remove the burr. Then I swap out the stone for the next, and repeat. I strop it with the strop (home made) mounted on the same box. Essentially the materials and end results are identical. The set up makes the difference. I might spend perhaps 15 seconds longer per stone, and stropping would be a wash. It has always been easier to do both faces. I realized watching this that if I used a set up like yours (or Paul Sellers or Stumpy Nubs), I would be doing it exactly the way you show. I think I got the idea for my box reading something by Ian Kirby.

[@jackson2uk]

Great explanation, thank you 🎉

[@stanp1104]

Great explanation. I learned allot.

[@imcg]

Thanks 👍

[@faramund9865]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and the nice views with the microscope!

[@Keithmwalton]

When I was a beginner I would often remove the burr between each grit because I wasn’t confident that I kept my angle the same and wanted to be sure I was reaching the tip at each level. I would use my fine stone or the strop each time tho, never used a coarse stone on a polished back

[@hassanal-mosawi4235]

Thanks for sharing that!

[@bryanreid4932]

Great vid James, made me think I may have been over sharpening, will give this a try. Thanks.

[@desertTooHot]

Huh the knife sharpener I have specifically says to do both sides of the knife with the same grit before moving on but I do really like your explanation on doing it one side at a time. Will try that next time I sharpen my marking knife.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

With a knife you need to do both sides as it has two bevels. You need to keep the cutting edge in the middle of the blade. But with a chisel there is only one bevel.

[@desertTooHot]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo ohhhhhh I see

[@davidegerton-warburton1311]

Thanks James, Great Video! 👌 This will help my sharpening technique a lot. I had a problem with some of my plane blades last week as I was breaking the bur off on every grit.

[@XOR9935]

Thanks for the video and sharing the knowledge. As self-taught, I take off the burr before moving to the next grit and was wondering why it wasn't as sharp as it should be. Looking forward to try with your advices ! By the way, what's the microscope's magnification level in the video ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

The eye piece is 10X but with the lenses on there it is a good bit more. The full width of the image is 1/32"

[@robertweldon7909]

My question is; when does this process stop being productive and become obsessive? I understand wanting clean cuts, but quite a bit of chisel work is across the grain of the wood, does this require having razor+ sharpness? I would think that if you demanded razor+ sharpness, you would be spending most of your time making the chisel sharp than doing the work. Very informative. You have explained this very well.

[@ourtube4266]

I think it’s about compartmentalizing your efforts. You sharpen to a razor edge because you already got out your stones and you want to make the most of that setup time. Then you get a bit more use out of it until it’s dull enough to justify another sharpening.

[@pekkaoksala6480]

Wau. I learned a lot with this. I thank You!

[@joansmith2169]

Well done, JW.

[@Kathyskollectables]

The levels of steel are new to me. I guess I never really paid that close of attention to it. Sharpened my chisels last year and I do recall the burr being quite large. The set I own is a stanley set. Very inexpensive but for now they work.

[@adelheidsnel5171]

Yep. This is IT🥂

[@MrMNRichardWright]

With your title and the heat of summer I was expecting a dry ice technic. Dad joke aside, Great explanation and logic of sharpening

[@MrDaveNG]

Useful information, thanks

[@billmoody9736]

Really good video - thank you

[@bobbenzuly7893]

As always, another interesting and helpful video. James, do you think there's value in doing a video on how the return stroke of a plane affects the cutting edge? Lift the plane off the work, drag it back on its sole, drag it back on its toe, etc.?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I did a video on that and it basically makes no difference at all.

[@justplanebob105]

Excellent descriptions on the burr, James, very easy to understand. My issue is pressure and it's hard to quantify that in a video. I have quite a few Arkansas stones and that's what I started with. And you can push pretty hard on a stone. So when I got my first diamond stone, I was pushing down way too hard. I started getting better edges when I lightened up. And when you finish up on a hard Arkansas stone, my goodness it's a beautiful polished edge.

[@borjesvensson8661]

Even on an arkansas stone i get a sharper edge by being as light on the hand as possible for the final passes

[@nerknerk8834]

Always thought of the bur as a little thing, lol. Never thought that a bigger bur takes more of the edge with it when it is removed! Thanks.

[@nerknerk8834]

Oops. Forgot these, rr.

[@johnpankow2387]

Well said!

[@chippysteve4524]

One way I was told how to check that you have produced a burr and/or whether the burr is still there even when too fine to see - wet the back of the chisel and if excess water/fluid is drawn to the tip ( which will be easily visible ) then the burr is still there.

[@gondebas]

8:58 What are the units of that sharpness tester you talk about? Particularly, it is a 100 of what? 100 micron (µ) seems to be dull as it is 0.1 millimeter (mm)? Anyway, great fresh new technique, James. I am adding you to my woodworkers pantheon, along side with Paul Sellers :-)

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It is grams of force needed to cut a filament. In the sharpening world it has become fairly standard. I cover it in most of the chisel and plane iron testing videos if you want to see more.

[@borjesvensson8661]

The one thing i was thinking about is wear on the back (flat side) that is the reason i hone my on both sides. I see both as bevels, just one is flat and long and one is hollowground and short (after reground on the grindstone) But i was thaugt sharpening on scandinavian style carving/belt knifes and carving-axes. Double flat bevel freehand ground and honed as flat as possible (so microscopically rounded over) Was thaught to hone on about a 1200 slate/shale stone (loosbryne) on both sides untill the burr is almost gone and then finish on a strop with autosol crome polish and then perhaps a clean strop for ultimate sharpness or untill the entire burr is gone flipping many times with lighter and lighter preassure (check with edge of fingernail) and strop on clean strop. Deburring on a piece of wood was thaught as a good hack if you do not have the time to hone properly but it was emphasized that it creates a ragged edge that only appears sharp But that just the way i was thaught. Any way that works is good