The Ultimate 4WD Welding Tutorial: Arc Welding Using 12V Batteries

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

How could we get better current control (stop blowing holes in things) when welding with batteries?

[@garylienert]

What current would be optimum? Can one of those buck converters with limited current output work?

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

@@garylienert It depends on the electrode and the thickness of the workpiece (see the chart in the video) So any solution would ideally need to be adjustable.

[@6226superhurricane]

adjusting your arc length to compensate would be easiest.

[@philg2468]

We used to add a length of thinner cable to the circuit to reduce current.

[@nordic5490]

@@philg2468 yup.

[@DuncanMargetts]

Superb video mate.. well done. I learnt a few things, loved the progression of voltage on the welding attempts.. 12/24/36 and the electrode selection advice was great. Appreciate the effort you put into this.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

While the weld quality left a lot to be desired! I hope it might help someone out on the tracks one day.

[@maccas44]

Great Video once again easy and simple to understand

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

Thanks mate!

[@stevespatafore321]

Also if the electrode holder cable is attached to Negative it is DCEN. The way you are explaining it is backwards. If the Electrode is attached to the positive terminal it would be DCEP. Electrode Positive.

[@philg2468]

Fantastic video as its a subject close to my heart. My success in the past has been with 2.5mm rods running off three lead acid batteries (36V). Back then we used a Southwark beer carton on the head with a piece of welding glass in a cutout. Sure the weld got a bit hot, but if you lifted frequently, you'd get the job done. Then along came AGM batteries - I can only assume they are OK for welding. Then along came Lithium and all my desert travel mates use Lithium, so we still have to have 3 vehicles in the convoy to weld with 36V of lead acid starting batteries! So currently, I'm trying to get with the times...... and I am experimenting with different welders running off a cheap 240V inverter running off 200Ah of Lithium batteries. So far I can weld thin stuff with a MIG welder at up to 70A. But next I need to experiment with my daughter's inverter arc welder as its very light and would be perfect for the desert trips, but as yet I still not sure whether I can run it off an inverter.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

It'll depend on the current rating of your battery, the capacity of your inverter and the current requirements of your inverter welder. Though, if all are in spec, there's no reason why it wouldn't be completely feasible. Unfortunately I didn't have a spare empty beer carton for the thumbnail! :)

[@goatsinker347]

I do a fair amount of mobile welding for people who are broken down along roadside. I use an 8000 watt inverter (that in reality only does 4000 watts;) it runs off of 12 volts, and i use 2 in parallel batteries. The nice thing is that i can keep the vehicle running, giving me another 100 amps from the alternator. This allows me to use a regular stick welder, and i can use any freaking rod i want 3,2mm on down, preferring the 2.4mm rods.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

I think an inverter and inverter welder is the ideal mobile setup, though this is a more minimal setup that could fit in a small tool bag for emergency only use.

[@Oz4me_craig]

Thanks Simon, I've been meaning to do this experiment for years, now you've saved me the time👍Definitely worth having the Rods, eye protection, jumper leads & battery links in your kit, for desert crossings and highly corrugated roads, especially when towing! Cheers

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

Glad to help, it could save you bacon outback!

[@wadehughes8986]

This would work if your travelling in a convoy with access to a couple of other batteries. With a lot of people now running inverters and lithium, I’d love to know the pros and cons of welding with the new style compact 240V arc welder off a 12V inverter.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

If your system could support the electrical load of the inverter welder, that would definitely be the way to go. You would have all the usual controls and maybe even run a TIG! Just gotta find somewhere for the Argon bottle.....

[@SirFuseable]

@@LockyourHubs4WDing The better choice would be gasless mig.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

@@SirFuseable have you tried one of those?

[@SirFuseable]

@@LockyourHubs4WDing I did, probably about 35 to 40 years ago. The boss had one given to him, so I grabbed it off him, took it outside and connected it to the battery on his old Cruiser. It welded thin material, say around 1.6mm, but would it have needed 24 volts to get a weld that I'd accept for say a cracked chassis. Getting the rush to get back to work I didn't get to do anything else with it. The whole kit was very compact. It's essentially just a spool gun with a basic controller. It didn't even have a facility to use gas, so it had to be gasless mig wire. I have been tempted to get one of those migs for myself but just haven't been able to come up with a real justification for it. My other half reckons I own enough welders already.

[@Bigcountry_littlelegs]

Nice vid, biggest thing that will help is preheat everything, esp the rods that will helpna lot then the work piece, its the secret to arc welding, also low hyd rods run much smoother

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

Thanks, I've tried preheating cast iron when brazing, I must give it a go with the electrodes and thicker workpieces.

[@Bigcountry_littlelegs]

@LockyourHubs4WDing doesn't need to be glowing but if you. An get it to 50/70degC helps get all the moisture from the rods and work

[@Bigcountry_littlelegs]

@@LockyourHubs4WDing also works well on thinner bits as well

[@Antonio-today]

Great video my friend. Thanks. Blessings.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

You're welcome!

[@garylienert]

Can you weld straight off solar panels? Like your 400w roof top type panel that have around 48v and 9amps.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

You need a lot of amps to weld, so unless you're running a solar farm! Probably not unfortunately. Though the energy generated by the solar could definitely be temporarily stored in batteries that could then be used for welding.

[@2bfrank657]

DCEP stands for Direct Current ELECTRODE Positive. The E is for electrode, not earth. The fourth digit of the electrode code tells you the type of flux coating used. This does influence what polarity you should use, but tells you a lot more about the rod than just the recommended polarity.

[@lucysoutdoors]

Another great subject matter,thanks for posting.Would you be able to mix battery types eg LiFeP04 with agm or starting batteries and also do the amps of the batteries need to be the same or are you able to join a 200amp with a 100amp?

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

If the BMS can support the current the setup is drawing, a LiFePO⁴ battery in the mix shouldn't be an issue.

[@lucysoutdoors]

@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thanks

[@Zorgens]

Remember a car battery with 100 Ah tells how much energy is stored in the battery (in theory 100 Ah * 12 V = 1200 Wh) . But you can withdraw hundreds of Amps. If the battery can deliver 500 A, you can withdraw 500 A for 12 mins (in theory 100 Ah / 500 Ah = 0,2 hour = 12 mins).

[@akbarshoed]

Thumbs up! Question: do these batteries die from this, or isn't a car battery designed for a quick discharge?

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

That's less current than winching of starting, so should be fine.

[@jonathonpursell1268]

Awesome video um how long you can weld with battery ? Does battery go flat quickly ?

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

Depends on your battery capacity and state of charge. Though burning through a couple of rods will be fine to start your car afterward.

[@electroumit]

Thank you. But no have current limit.

[@stevespatafore321]

DCEP the “E” stands for Electrode not Earth. DCEP = Direct Current Electrode Positive. Or DCEN Direct Current Electrode Negative.

[@SirFuseable]

Nive video but to be honest, I think you've massively over-thought your kit, which has obviously not seen any use yet, other than for this video. My travel welding kit, which I've been carrying for more than 40 years and only needed twice, is definitely a bit more primitive but also takes up far less space and is much lighter. The rods are Satincraft 13, which are the easiest to use general purpose rods I've ever used, in 2 bundles: 1.6mm, which will weld using 12v for light work and 2.4, which work fine off 24v. The rods are wrapped up in cling film (Gladwrap, etc.), together with a couple of packets of silica gel. For the mask I just use a hand-held filter glass. Riggers gloves work perfectly well but it is of course preferable to wear something like a long sleeved flannel shirt. Jumper cables and vice grips serve well, especially considering how rarely a kit like this will be required. The chipping hammer is way over the top too. Just use a screwdriver. If you are likely to be doing emergency welding more than once every few years you'd be better off investing in a portable mig kit, which will run off your batteries.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

Most of the componentry for the kit I put together came from my inverter ARC/TIG. I can't remember the last time I used the welder for anything other than tig and the components were sitting in a bag on a shelf. I'm amazed you're getting a stable ARC at 12v , even with 1.2mm rods.

[@SirFuseable]

@@LockyourHubs4WDing That's one of the great things about the Satincraft 13 rods, they keep a very stable arc. It's just one of the reasons I always recommend them to beginners. I must admit that I'm not even sure that they still make the 1.6mm rods because I haven't seen them around for a very long time. Not that I really need them these days because I rarely arc weld any more, unless it's heavy sections and the mig and tig are better suited to thin material anyway.

[@Iowa599]

FYI, battery selection is also important, because excessivly high amperage also kills batteries, by overheating the plates. (probly) seems unlikely, but I've done it.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

Whilst a consideration, I don't think the heat generated running a couple of 2 inch long beads is going to overheat the batteries.

[@Iowa599]

150 amps will fry a lead/acid group 9 motorcycle battery.

[@Iowa599]

Use smaller welding rods. I use 1/16" rods for sheet metal.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

You make a valid point, it should need less current with smaller diameter rods. I just grabbed what was available at my local hardware store.

[@aboaazam]

I'm thinking seriously about this. I've seen people using lead batteries with a capacity of only nine amps. They combine three batteries in series. Three batteries in this case give out a high voltage of 36 amps. He was able to weld with...

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

Low capacity (Ah) batteries, usually have an issue delivering the required current. Dependent on the chemistry etc.

[@hamishlawrance8273]

Please take this as constructive but i think there is something wrong with you 24v setup, I wouldn't recomend it but many moons ago a built a 6x4 trailer from scratch with 2 car batteries, and istill use the trailer to this day.

[@LockyourHubs4WDing]

Did you go for a thinner electrode?