The Victorian Morning Corset: Testing a 19th-Century Corset Pattern

Hello everyone and welcome to a new video!
Ever since I saw the illustration for this pattern a few months ago, it's stayed in my head, so I was so happy to finally give it a go! This corset dates to 1893, from an issue of La Mode Illustree, a popular Victorian magazine. I got it from Repeated Originals on Etsy (www.etsy.com/uk/listing/24620.... I made it from under a meter of cotton coutil, herringbone tape, synthetic whalebone, some flat steel boning, and a bit of lace.
I was so intrigued by the concept of this closure - the really innovative bit about it, though technically it's so reminiscent of fan lacing that it could be considered vintage for its time lol. I found the concept of a tab closure, without eyelets and lacing, very convenient and practical, but ultimately found that it didn't work for me!
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[@EngineeringKnits]

It is so wonderful to see someone else tackle this corset - I found this a very interesting corset to make and while I agree it doesn't work for me either, I did find a really good use case. I went to an event with my mom who is not used to wearing costumes or corsets and found the more traditional corsets uncomfortable, but when I put this one on her - she loved it! I found this pattern in a german magazine and it was called the 'faullenzer' - the couch potato 😆😆😆

[@CatsCostumery]

Couch potato is a perfect name 😂

[@MrsBrit1]

I was thinking of your couch potato corset while watching this!

[@angeliccow]

Morning corset is the historical equivalent of a bralet - doesn’t do much but makes you feel like your wearing something

[@dorota1504]

Someone mentioned it before, but I can confirm, that a closure you come up with later is much better for this type of corset. I made a "Bathing Corset" from Bella Mae's Designs pattern. And the back offers much more pull and stability, even though it has much less boning than yours and is made out of wool. I also found that a wider lacing strips at the front make a lot of difference. In the case of bathing corset it's actually a buckle, and you tie/close it like a belt. It's wonderfully comfortable and easy to wear.

[@DaejahSally]

I saw someone who added hook and eye closures at the top and bottom of the back to keep it more stable, it added more support to the morning corset

[@zelphiaellerson6283]

'Dubious late night decisions' is now my favorite phrase!

[@sabrinaqualley5743]

Very interesting - thanks for sharing this project. Your solution at the end is great. I see it like the "leisure bra" of corsets, where it just keeps you a little bit more decent, while being comfortable, but doesn't really provide the support of a real bra. I would never leave the house or do any real work in a leisure bra, but might wear one if I'm going to be hanging out in my PJs with other people.

[@CatsCostumery]

Exactly! More like a bralette 😂

[@thevoicesstalk]

It's definitely an interesting item and I feel like the fit would always be an issue when tension is only maintained around the waist. Your solution is more logical I'd say than the original design, and now I'm itching to get back to my corset project which has been set aside for an age.

[@kjtherrick4031]

Adding more "wraps" to the back was my idea too; I really like the way you did this. Your modifications make this worthwhile. I wonder if it could be refashioned to wrap in the front...

[@CatsCostumery]

Ooh intriguing!!

[@amberdulay7238]

I wonder is Shannon Makes “sports corset” might be more what you’re looking for?

[@mrscolonyrabble]

Good job. It is so hard to make ourselves finish a project that clearly isn't working. I was sitting there thinking, "fan lacing, would that work?" so I'm glad you tried it and I could see the results. I learn so much from you, thank you for sharing your knowledge, and your authenticity, showing us even when things don't go as planned.

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I was thinking "skirt bars at top and bottom?" but the fan thing is way nicer, not to mention easier to get into.

[@becauseimafan]

Yes, ditto to all of this! Better than I could've said! 😁 I could not remember the term fan lacing until she said it, despite me literally asking myself: _I wonder if that closure could be good, what's it called, it kinda fans out_ 😂😅 Also, sooo many unfinished projects, motivation is so tough to find for all the different reasons they've been put in the corner for a time out to think about what they did 😂 (First heard Nicole Rudolph say that phrase in a video, it's not mine but I love it and I've been using it ever since.)

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

@@becauseimafan Because I get so excited to start new projects, I sort of dangle them in front of myself like a carrot on a stick, my new project rule is that I can only have on new thining on the go at once, and before I start, something has to come out of the UFO/this didn't work pile (even if it ends up going right back in to think about what it's done or wait for my skills to catch up with my ideas), get something off the mending pile, and get 1D6 pairs of socks from the darning pile back into active service.

[@becauseimafan]

​@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 Ooh, I like this, requires a level of self-restraint/discipline (and, like, less executive dysfunction) that I've gotta improve on, but I'm working on it! 😁 I will save this, and work up to it. Thank you for sharing!! ❤

[@dianagreene4257]

I've made a couple Edwardian bathing corsets that have a similar closure. The tabs come all three way to the front and close with a buckle. There's not as much back support as a regular corset, but the tabs are shaped the same way as your ribbon fix and it's very comfortable when i want some light shaping. (And the triangles on the tabs are so pretty that i can wear it over a t-shirt or plain blouse!)

[@sunshinesideofdarkside]

❤ Good to try new things but I have a feeling this type would fit the small ladies. I'm not small so I would experience the same issues you did. Interesting style of closure. I think the fan lacing improved it by miles.

[@ariettasvintagelife]

I love your suggestion about the gussets, I always struggle with them nad your method is really helpful, thank you! And you're right it doesn't seem like a great corset - support wise - but it was nice to see the construction process!

[@martyquinn_6784]

Your solution for the back remind me a lot of the closure of swimming corset of the turn of the century. I think there is an example at the Met museum

[@singingneedle953]

Interesting! Thanks for sharing your discovery of the morning corset and your analysis. I hadn't heard of this corset type before. Nice fix with the fan-lace-inspired tapes! Bummer that it isn't as supportive as you had hoped. It makes me imagine that it's purpose may just be to cover over the area you wouldn't want seen through thin fabric or, in today's experience, nips poking against one's shirt when the mailman comes to deliver a package unexpectedly lol.

[@skirtedgalleons]

Does "morning" corset mean like having breakfast and lounging stuff before you get dressed in your real corset for the day? I actually have this pattern and I'm gonna give it away. Thanks for taking one for the team!

[@CatsCostumery]

Yep, I always think of it as a slow Sunday morning but every day 😂

[@SingingSealRiana]

Yeah, exactly that, Like one would throw a Robe over their pjs in the morning for breakfast, but Dressing propperly before going Out and bee Seen by Outsiders

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

I think the extra tapes were a brilliant idea 👍🏻

[@90littlebeagle]

What if you elongate the strap that is included in the pattern so that it goes around your waste, and make the drawstring shorter (so that you only have a short end for tying)? this way you have a wider strap around your torso that doesn’t cut into your side as the drawstring does 🤔

[@CatsCostumery]

Also a great idea!

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

It looks lovely even if it only sort of works. Nice experiment though. Oh and I will also make notes of the site!

[@DaejahSally]

I saw someone who added hook and eye closures at the top and bottom of the back to keep it more stable, it added more support to the back of the morning corset.

[@makeda6530]

More corset content, I’m still on my everyday corset journey and now I have more knowledge. I’ve wanted to test out fan lacing and it seems a bit better. Love the little ruffles. Thanks Cat 💞

[@Needleandfur]

I am now very interested in trying this corset - I have a morning dress from the late 1890's that I'm making and was wondering what I might wear underneath it. Having watched this video and seen your solutions I'm tempted to make this with a couple of my own design changes to try and give it a little more structure but without losing it's overall look. Thank you for sharing

[@CatsCostumery]

I think with a few tweaks, it has potential for sure!

[@Needleandfur]

@@CatsCostumery I'll keep you posted

[@milliealger3539]

I like your fix. It would be great for a corset beginner

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

Yeah I've seen a similar style beforeand thought maybe it would make a good training corset to see if I can actually stand wearing one (my ribs get achy when restrained). I'm starting with a stays pattern though, I'm more for the support than the silhouette.

[@milliealger3539]

@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 I wish I had someone to help me lace and pull. I want to start wearing one

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

​@@milliealger3539 I feel like the bigger problem when solo corseting is getting the mockup fitting properly... There are adaptations that can be made when one's corsetting alone... My first experiment was just the top half of an athletic corset pattern originally from Foundations Revealed, but I sewed the back seam together and put a zipper in the front like one of my sports bras has. If you do the bunny ears trick you can often get a pretty good amount of pull from the front, and there's always fan lacing, though that will be a bit finicky and maybe require some assistance to set up. What I'm doing right now is being anachronistic and making everything front lacing, since I'd rather my boobs be squished together as I ighten from the front than pulled around my body as something tightens from the back, I already have age-related boobs-in-armpits syndrome and I feel like something back-lacing is not going to help that. I did reverse the slant on the boning on one side of the mockup on that corset pattern I tried and it did work a bit to convince things to stay more up front and centre so I did it on the other side for the final form. The boob support was great but I need to take it apart and add a couple inches at the bottom because my ribs are whiny. I had much better success with fitting and support when I made a front-lacing lightly boned form fitting vest with the princess seam pattern I've got fitting my particular shape. If I ever need a nonspecific corsetlike support garment, I'll remake that but bone it a lot more and extend it down over my hips at the sides so I can pretend to have some hip spring.

[@aroger2486]

I love this. I've been wanting to make one for a while now. I'm glad to see you make it first. Now I do want to make it.

[@nancymoore8949]

Great information, as always. Thank you! I am anxious for your discovery of the perfect corset that also has back support.

[@kida4star]

I wonder if spreading out the tab connection, so it is more triangular than just a tab, might help the lack of support issue. Edit, and then you add the additional ties and it works!

[@gwirithil1]

This was a vastly helpful video, as I've wondered about this style of corset for me and now I have a solid idea of what I might want to do or not do with it. Thank you so much!

[@roadrunnercrazy]

Any project we learn from is not a waste of time. Even if it feels like it sometimes. 😊

[@abbychappell3255]

I wonder if redrafting and eliminating the "lacing gap" would solve the tension issue 🤔 I imagine that if the one side overlays the other, that would potentially cause enough tension to improve the support over the entire length of the back edge. Just thinking out loud! Wonderful video, as always!

[@moonbasket]

Completely understand why you didn't want to finish the corset. I always have to add something interesting to my simple looking projects or I just can't do them. I probably would have added a colorful binding to keep myself interested, but I love the lace you added. Very nice.

[@sublimnalphish7232]

Perhaps a wider band for all the way around a thicker ribbon or tabs to reach to under the apex point of the bust and then a thin ribbon tie. Idk just a suggestion.

[@nancybridegam6903]

Great solution!

[@jayneterry8701]

Other than the gapping in the back its a very pretty ' corset' . Adding the lace too. Tyfs

[@wendywilson81]

It seems like the corset equivalent to a bralette

[@anetajezewska-singh4392]

Thumbs up for perseverance 👍

[@SewlockHolmes]

I'm wondering whether a hook and eye closure on thicker bands (still meant to close at the front) would help with that sharp point of contact at the waist. Thanks for sharing, I'm excited to give this pattern a try!!

[@roxiepoe9586]

In a past life I would assign an entire class to individually 'solve' a problem. The solutions ran from terrible, to possible, to Rube Goldberg. It was always fun. I think that corset may have been designed by someone who never actually wore one. It is mansplained underware.

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I kinda feel like it's more designed for people who are built a bit more columnar than Cat is. Honestly, maybe it would fit a stereotypical man's shape better?

[@CatsCostumery]

I definitely think the curvier shape needs something a little different!

[@lucyannethrope7569]

Love that you are experimenting with stuff like this! ❤️ I allways find it hard to find it hard to find a corset type that fits my body type and gives me the right silhouette. The fact that I am quite square in my upper body (kind of on the muscular side/ typical cross fit body type) and haven't that much that can be squished in the waist region. Need more of bust support than anything elese in a corset. But I love the early edwardian silouette. Any recommendations?

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

Commenting because similar problem here after years of core strengthening physiotherapy and that my body pads out my belly instead of my hips if I put on weight, I describe my body type as "dad bod with boobs"... I'm assuming those of us with blockier torsos and narrower hips are going to need to include a lot of padding for silhouette, I just wonder how to get a correct comfortable supportive fit around padding... My current line of thought is that maybe I need to make a comfortable supportive corsetlike garment first (still working on that because complainy ribs) then make a padded overlay to get the silhouette. Maybe if I made multiple silhouette ovelays, I could do different eras with the same base corset?

[@becauseimafan]

​@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 I'm no expert so I don't know if this will help either you or OP @lucyannethrope7569 but: maybe check out Nicole Rudolph and her corset videos? She describes her body type as athletic and doesn't have much squish (so for example, even if she wanted to lace-down or tight-lace, the corsets can't). I'd recommend watching: *100 Years Of Corset History: How 8 Corsets Affect The Same Body*

[@CatsCostumery]

I’m not an expert either but I think maybe finding a good base layer that fits well at your waist and then you can use inbuilt padding for the bust/hips to get the proportions if you’re looking for a more historical look - the waist is the most stable portion of the corset, it should fit right, and then you can play around with the bust and hips until you get a shape you like! ☺️

[@SingingSealRiana]

Pretty much only the Option they went with, padding. No Cut of corset or fastening can give you a shaped your Body Just does Not do unless you use padding. Like I am compleatly flat in a corset. My waist sinches, but I Lack the bust size to compliment it and my hips are Not very curvy either. So either I am OK with Not getting the siluette No Matter how ticht I lace, or I pad

[@AJansenNL]

Have you seen Bella Maes' bathing corset? It has a fix to give more back support.

[@CatsCostumery]

I’ll have a look!

[@rachelboersma-plug9482]

I was also reminded of Bella Mae's swimming corset. I know she found hers comfortable and supportive, but she is a slim straight size who probably doesn't need a whole lot of support or have much squish.

[@wanderingspark]

I saw this pattern awhile ago and was intrigued by it. Disappointing to hear that it doesn't actually work very well. I wonder if it would be improved by having boning on both sides of the slit. I also think it might help to make the tabs flare out more at their bases, so they have more pull on the top and bottom edges of the corset.

[@freyagreaves1460]

Really reminds me of gibson girl dress sports corset

[@curlyclaire2]

You could always put lacing strips on and see if that helps.

[@SeleneSalvatore]

Longer fan lacing tabs that go to front in one spot and close with button or hefty ribbon. This corset probably would work for teenagers and pettit women.

[@MxSirel]

Those odd curved pleats in the front are, in my experience, relatively common on this gusseted style of corset! At least, when I was digging through De Gracieuse for 1870s corset patterns most of them had something like it (the pattern I ended up with had 2 per side, one starting at each bust gusset). My theory is that they might provide some minor shaping in the tummy area perhaps? (Also I suspect they're the reason why my first ever attempt at inserting bust gussets went so smoothly - they basically added extra space for seam allowance to the slits!) Anyway, awesome video! I've been lowkey thinking about making one of these corsets for myself but considering your results I now suspect that the weight of my boobage would quickly defeat any attempt at support this kind of corset would give me 🤔

[@annerigby4400]

Thank you for making this corset. I had considered it but wasn't sure about the way it all fastened together. It doesn't look comfortable because of the ribbon around the waist. I can't stand anything tight around the waist so your solution does improve it. Anyway, I have enjoyed making corsets in the great dive into seeing if I could make one that fits. I came across a Paresseux (haven't got around to making it) and I wondered if there was any difference between that and Corset du Matin as far as fit goes. The Paresseux I found is in the Mode Illustrée of 1869 number 45. I'm not sure how it fastens but it has two straps/ribbons that come from the front and go around the back and seem to join towards the back of the waist. I have only used the original plates for my attempts and I have nowhere near the measurements of the ladies intended for these patterns (1m65 or 1m67 to my 1m76 and all the other proportions could not be more different.) so my results have been..... interesting. Have you come across that particular model? I get the impression that the Paresseux or the Corset du Matin were intended to give the lady the impression that she was 'decent' in a more comfortable way. Nowadays, we might wear a bra that is mildly supportive under a roomy sweatshirt as a modern version. So, with that in mind, perhaps support was not the intent, but rather the alternative to going around 'wearing nothing'. Just a thought.

[@lynndragon2536]

I bought the pattern as i liked the idea but yeah the actual closure seems sus at best and i think i would need to tweek it

[@courtneyperry7659]

I wonder if making it front or even side opening and even wider so there is no gap would help it be more supportive? I do like the fan-lacing idea...

[@Maraaha55]

Good for you. I hate it though, because if you want ANYthing from a corset, surely you want support? My nana wore a 1920s/30s style corset all her life and I think it offered her no support at all, really. As someone who was 1 36c at 10 yo, I am very critical of 'support' garments indeed and am intrigued by corset culture - but I do think that to be properly effective they probably need to be either made to measure or heavily customised. I also like 'freedom' rather than being constrained. I am lucky that I have never had back issues though!

[@kristenpeters4434]

Do you have your thesis yet? Would be really interested to hear what it is, if you’re at that point ☺️ I’m trying to find a way to have corsets work for my body too. I have severe endometriosis, and too much compression causes pain. But a little compression can be great. I’m considering trying a very stable stretch woven fabric, or maybe a panel on each side with stretch…this corset was on my list of possibilities, so thank you so much for sharing your work (as always!)

[@CatsCostumery]

This doesn’t apply a lot of pressure other than at the waist so it might be worth a go! ❤️

[@kristenpeters4434]

I’m looking for back support too, so you saved me some frustration ❤

[@a.k.v.3042]

I read something somewhere that this type of "lounging" corset was also for those who were abed with illness - perhaps so when the doctor comes they have something "proper" to wear but nothing so restrictive as a corset. Who knows if it was conjecture or true. I can't recall where I read it either.

[@tashacano3324]

I saw someone make a version of this that had 3 straps turn into one. I think that makes more sense than just the one middle strap. Edit: i shoulda watched to the end😂

[@rjbrewer09]

Did you make the red sweater in the video? I just loved the sleeves and how the ribbing came up the torso..❤ Do you have a pattern for it. Thank you for sharing the corset making process but as a knotter ai couldn’t remain silent about that gorgeous sweater

[@woochles]

I think a fan lacing system would create a better fit.

[@brazelton13]

You are probably actually wanting a fan laced corset 😊

[@katschulte6851]

It looks to me like the bust and hip are too big. Adding the extra ribbons to give it more tension looks like it pulled them in tighter but it still looks like there's too much extra space when you're moving around and it still looks too big

[@Familylawgroup]

Were British, French, and American Victorian garments substantially different amongst the countries?

[@CatsCostumery]

I mostly study British and European so I can’t speak to America but a lot of companies exported across Europe and America, and fashion plates often popularised French fashions, so there were a lot of similarities!

[@susanelliott1970]

Would you please explain what is an Exton Pattern? I have heard that expression or an Exton design and I have no idea what that means. Thanks.

[@Judoka26]

It's 'extant' which means "already existing" or in this context it's a pattern from the historical period, not a modern interpretation or design.

[@CatsCostumery]

Exactly so! ☺️

[@mads.arnautov]

This seems like the camisole bra of the 1800s, usually only works if you have almost nothing there, and more for modesty than support

[@sannabengtsson3044]

The look like a child course it's a Fine how did Tarzan top

[@JanealJohnson]

isn't that style meant to be loose like that, as its just for like going for breakfast before getting fully dressed?

[@misstweetypie1]

Honestly, it could have been a fad design that works for less busty ladies, but not well for everyone else? We still do this, have styles or designs that work well for ladies that are model sizes, but look bad or are not functional for everyone else. Think crop tops, bra less dress designs, etc. For all we know, the magazine editors could have included this design, and women made it and were like, “wtf? Who is this designed for, because it’s not for me!”

[@Siansonea]

Yeah, this doesn't seem that useful. I would really like to make a corset for daily wear that gives adequate back support, but I really don't want to deal with lacing. I am not seeing anything that really seems like an adequate solution.