The WORST thing to find in an engine!

[@dp.2766]

As a machinist I can tell you that the block can be bored, an custom sleeves made fairly easily. Somebody oversized the sleeve bores in the last rebuild. Also, a narrow straight knurl near the lip may help hold the new ones in place. Also, just 8 No .com has all kind of cool parts including blocks, etc.

[@GuyinWY]

Thank you! The problem I’m running into is finding a local shop that is willing to do the work. The only place I’ve found so far won’t guarantee anything and wants a $2k deposit up front. I may end up having to travel a few hundred miles to find someone I can work with.

[@dp.2766]

@@GuyinWY try just8ns .com in North Carolina they have remanufactured blocks for either side distributor, or front for 1450.00 USD!

[@dp.2766]

P.S. they also have electronic ignition kits.... Don’t hesitate to call them. They may move a little slow, but they will treat you right.

[@deadordreadfist343]

I figured cylinder sleeve right off the bat, but I do appreciate your courage in disassembling the engine that far yourself. I'm not sure I have the tools or the inclination to attempt that myself.

[@kevinnearhood641]

Happened to my 8n also. Napa has a sleeve retainer compound.Its like a loctite. I used it on my new sleeves.

[@jamesmoore3346]

Locktite makes a great retaining compound. Those 8N's had either a .040 or a .090 dry liner, I always used the locktite retainer when putting new liners in.. A little note, if I had to guess by all the damage, this motor was an ether "addict". Hate that stuff. Used to tell my customers, 'if you find a can of starting fluid in my shop, I'll give you 20.00$. Never use ether, use WD-40 or a rag soaked in gas held next to the air intake will help start a low compression engine, just never use ether......

[@rivervalleyfarm482]

It part of the steel liner for a cylinder.

[@jimgroff6880]

Yes

[@BigMoPrepper]

Yep 2

[@JDSWeather]

Or could be part of the piston

[@rivervalleyfarm482]

No to thin.

[@kevinoscarson2941]

Yup liner

[@hilltoprestoration]

I put a 263 straight 8 out of a Buick in my 8n. Had a bell housing adapter made, bought a junk donor tractor to lengthen everything by 14" including the hood. New factory radiator still had a problem cooling, electric fan helped, I ended up selling it at the Mecum Gone Farmin auction 4 years ago, don't know where it ended up, was a lot of fun though!

[@johnclarke6647]

I know all about broken metal part in a rank case looks like. This past summer I built a Farmertec ms 361 kit saw. I did not realize the piston was not relieved properly and was kissing the crank counterweights at bdc. After seven tanks it ate its piston. I have rebuilt this saw with a new crank, piston and cylinder. I did check it to make sure the new piston was not hitting the counterweights. It is running fine, now and has cut a lot of wood.

[@endangeredgnome5337]

Your sound quality is hugely improved. Thanks for working on it!!!

[@OkFixer]

I disagree with you sir....the worst thing to find in your engine is a termite colony. I found that in a VW engine I was trying to rebuild. Their waist, cellulose and moisture seized and rotted everything in that engine. I had to pound it apart...The only things remotely salvageable were the con rods and crank....even the magnesium case had holes in it...ha,ha,ha My next worse was 5 gallons of water in the crankcase and trans of my 45 model A John Deere.......had to inventively pound everything apart in that engine as well. Love tractors...great video Keep on keeping on.

[@TheUffelpuff]

A lot of play sideways on the piston rods when jiggling the pistons at about 7:20 in the video, may also be a problem but the sleeves is most likely the main failure at this stage. but i suggest look up the specs of the crank, piston rods and rod bearings aswell maybe the guy who resleeved the block also laithed the crank to undersize and still installed stock bearings because that fittment is a rattle fit and must had a lot of rod knock if it ran at all for any longer period after the rebuild.

[@waynep343]

i used to work in an engine rebuilding shop back in the mid 90's. they are closed now. the boss fired the guy doing the boring and honing . while sleeving a straight six continental engine.. one that had been rebuilt many times before. he cut all the way thru the bottom steps on the block so the sleeves would be unsupported at the bottom. he also screwed up the bore size as the sleeves fell thru the block when the owner tried to install them. since we were not in the best area i stayed late with the boss while he bored and honed a bunch of blocks for the next days production. i had learned to bore and hone 15 years before in school but i had not done enough to take over this job position. i noted that when he set the dial bore gauge in the setting master that the indicator needle bounced as it came to a rest.. i stopped him.. it should not do that.. we looked carefully . the setting masters had divots in the end from the carbide balls rubbing them as they bore gauge was set in and readjusted perhaps 100+ times a day. when the sunnen rep came the next day.. he left his setting kit and took ours.. he said he had never seen so much wear before.. all of a sudden all the bore sizes were accurate again. this is probably what happen to this tractor block.. when sleeves get installed sometimes they get a high temp adhesive on the outside as they are pounded into place.. you probably knew the block was overbored for sleeves but now you know why it happens..

[@uppitywhiteman6797]

Comprehensive explanation, Thx Hope you got a raise. That was particularly important info for you boss, considering the business he was in.

[@luvr381]

So he fired a guy who got a job wrong because of faulty equipment?

[@waynep343]

@@luvr381 absolutely.. and it was his nephew also. i saw the nephew drop a 318 piston pin for a full floating application.. i ask if it had a bur on the end from hitting the concrete .. nah. i went on about my business.. he honed the heck out of the small end bearing and piston to get that damaged pin to fit. i did not catch it until the car owner came back with a double pin knock.. i knew what it was as soon as i opened the hood.. tore the engine out.. found the offending piston.. took it out.. put a new bushing in the rod.. new piston and pin.. a fresh set of rings on that piston and it was fixed.. the customer was crazy happy.. i was furious.. so i was glad to see him go. even though that ment more work..

[@luvr381]

@@waynep343 Oh, one of those guys, huh?

[@REDMAN298]

wayne p: good explanation. This subject hits a nerve. I dropped off my standard cylinders (`67 Hog) at the dealer, Pacific H.D. This was in 1973. They screwed up the bore to .060 in. over and they were off center. Then they ordered sleeves from the mainland and it took 30 days! They tried to get me to pick up the molested cylinders.

[@leoashrae4199]

Wow! I'm wondering why on earth the previous rebuilder hone'd the crap out of those bores(?) I worked for a Ford/Ferguson dealer in Neffs, PA, back in the 70's. In my experience those liners are made to fit "TIGHT". When we installed 8n liners we had the parts-guy stop at the Lehigh Valley Dairy on his way to work that morning and buy a 25-pound box of dry ice. After a cold soak for about five minutes in the dry ice the liners would slide right in. Because the liners are so thin we found the best way to get them out was to use a fairly long and specially ground cold-chisel, which was ground smooth on one side. With the smooth side against the bore wall, you could "carefully" split the liner to get it out. We found the liners to be too thin and too soft to get them out with a puller because the puller-plate would sometimes slip past the end of the liner and wedge itself into the bore... and in the worst case crack the block. No sir... an 8n is not supposed to have slippy-slidey cylinder liners. Someone really screwed the pooch on that rebuild. I hope you can salvage that block.

[@dennisobrien3618]

Speaking from personal experience, the worst thing I have found was a lifter sitting in the big ripped-open gash in the oil pan, as oil and coolant were running on the ground. That's the result of a rod breaking and knocking the sides of the block out. Close second was finding a valve head embedded in the combustion chamber with a massive hole in the piston. Catastrophic failures are the worst.

[@OneEye.]

Ran across some companies that make cylinder sleeves while at SEMA. What will need to be done now is over bore all cylinders. Then new sleeves ordered oversized can then be turned down on a lathe. Then bore inner for stock size.

[@WatchWesWork]

Hmm. Liner shake. Are you sure it's not an MBE Mercedes? Do they make an oversize OD liner?

[@tonyfremont]

Cast iron liner pieces. Don't know why they'd break up like that though unless there was a rod slapping around the inside of a cylinder. 1:45 viewed so far.

[@f1reater]

there are two different thicknesses of sleeves. if yours are the thin ones you can bore the block and put in the thick wall sleeves

[@jamesdoyle6839]

i had a similar issue with a 39 flathead ford...how I resolved it was using toyota sleeves which are slightly larger in diamater.. and rebored to finish size.. always bore block for sleeves leaving a slight lip on bottom for sleeve to stop against.

[@christurner5473]

You have got me hooked please tell me that you have more on this tractor I’m dying to see more

[@taavey]

My 1940 9n was worse when I rebuilt it 30 yrs ago. Spent more on parts and machine work on the little thing than I did nn most race motors back then. Upside is it still runs as good today as it did right after its resurrection. These are fine old tractors!

[@korvtm]

That reminds me way back in 1978 a young man who worked for me was servicing an Army Gamma Goat,noticed a little water in the center differential.Upon draining the diff.he found several Grade 8 3/8 bolts came out of the drain hole.They were the bolts that hold the ring gear to the ring gear carrier.Onlt time I ever saw that happen.

[@PapaJ5667]

Part of a babbit bearing shim I've seen that in old V-8 engines back in the day but I could be wrong .....used car dealers used to be bad about shimming the bearings ,pouring saw dust in the manual transmission and the rearend to stop them from whining

[@PapaJ5667]

Ooops I was wrong about the babbit bearings but ....I have seen that before

[@Mercmad]

The old Jam tin liners . Ford used them on the V8 and the English Bedford truck engines were similarly cursed. looks like the engine never had an oil change and was run without water ,hence the loosened liners and run bearings.

[@larrylund2682]

On our farm the 8N was an essential utility tractor. Snow removal in winter to hauling hay in summer. Each winter Dad and I would give the Ford a valve job. Never saw our valves as crusty as this tractors. Clearly this oversize bore thing is the fault of the machinist not being able to measure correctly the bore size to match the sleeves. Probably installed them when the block was cold. Maybe 20 hrs of running and then every thing fell apart. This tractor didn't run very well anyway. Running way too rich, possibly dirty fuel, and by the looks of the oil pan - never had an oil change.

[@fireguy8466]

Yeah it’s a cylinder sleeve

[@warrenpuckett4203]

The worst thing? The intake manifold bolt you were looking for is in the combustion chamber. Makes a funny noise when your start it for some reason. I started locking the shop door after that. My "good buddy" just happened to have a running replacement for sale.

[@benpbraun]

Yup on the blue paint. There’s a flyer image floating around getting tractors refreshed to Ford Blue at the dealership. If the block is good there’s plenty of parts out there.

[@etheroar6312]

Rod bearing on #2 looked a little loose too.

[@AzTrailRider57]

Yeah, I saw that too

[@robertnelson3805]

On a truck I knew the wet liners had to be clamped when the pistons were to be moved or else leaks started. On a car the liner had an air pocket at back so that piston blew a hole with overheating. {UK 2020}

[@jondunn5986]

Ouch not good Blake, never worked on an 8N but those double arm steering boxes I always pull the drag links off and fold them over the rear of the tractor my old boss who was massey for nearly 50 yrs said the massey steering boxes were a bugger to get back in sync if the arms come off the worm, just be careful that no one turns the steering wheel

[@derekevans8266]

30 odd years ago I saw a very similar failure on two Massey Ferguson tractors 35 3 cylinder Perkins diesels within two weeks. They were the 3/152 engines with the chromehard liners. What happened in each case was the piston dragged the liner into the bottom of the crankcase breaking off the lip at the top leaving it with the head gasket. Because the liners are chromehard and not cast the don't break up and smash but buckle up like a big mushroom around the crank. The only was to get the engine apart was to cut off the conrod with oxy and lift the crank out. By coincidence I was actually delivering to the farm when one seized the engine had been running fine the stopped it for dinner and after dinner it wouldn't start, how strange is that.

[@dcraft1234]

I wonder if those are original pistons. They look strange with oil ring below the pin. Mine didn't look like that. I dropped a sleeve while mowing, it was knocking really badly like a rod bearing and started smoking badly, even out of the breather! I was lazy when I overhauled it the first time and just honed the old liners. Be sure to flush absolutely everything cause the cast iron sleeve particles get pumped everywhere; took out my new bearings.

[@josephlfrazier9727]

You didn't mention anything about sequence of removal of head bolts or studs and nuts. What happened to sequence of removal of head bolts, (yes I see those are studs and nuts)? Sequence of removing head bolts or studs and nuts reduces the possibility of warping the head (caused by the sudden release of torque pressure by rapidly backing of each one as you did). That's what it looked like anyway.

[@hillonwheels8838]

I was thinking either rod or main bearing but after you said sleeved cylinders that made complete sense.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

It's good that you can laugh at your troubles! Press on, my friend.

[@treebuzzard5796]

Seen some beautifully restored 8n's going for cheap, they are a good tractor, love them fully restored in all the livery.

[@johnr8476]

Dry sleeves, with water in oil probably has a cracked block in one of the cylinders, if you are lucky a head gasket. Could have been bored and larger pistons and liners installed trying to get a little more power out of it, then was overhauled at a latter date and stranded size stuff was put back in it but is ?

[@themaxee08]

Just something I noticed but at 7:28 your rod bearing was way loose.

[@graysona1800]

Looks like parts of a bearing, assuming this engine uses steel insert bearings not zero-clearance lead bearings. Also assuming the metal is steel of some description, not lead. The thing going against that though, is that normally when you find bearings in your oil pan you also find catastrophic failure... Engines in your holes, etc.

[@MrENT18]

Good thing its Halloween soon, because this engine is a horror.

[@lettuceman3848]

Haha

[@tonyfremont]

Now I've seen the rest, that's pretty bad. Is it possible the broken liners expanded and cracked from startup in freezing cold weather and then not letting it warm up slowly or the liners expanding and breaking from the block bore being too loose of a fit? Can't wait to see measurements of the block bores.

[@markthompson4225]

I think that someone might have did a rebuild on it and board the cylinders and didnt get the proper oversized sleeves... the old catalogues were confusing at best when it came to info... and they started to put it together and realized the parts were wrong and just went with it not knowing what could happen... or it overheated and distorted them which caused them to self destruct... but I could be wrong on both counts

[@ALABAMAHEADHUNTER]

I am in the engine machine shop business . That isn't so bad . It's repairable . I also noticed when you were moving that # 2 piston around it looked like the rod bearing was wiped out also . There are over sized piston liner kits available for that 8N engine . Having some water in the oil pan also the block needs to be checked for cracks in the cylinders where everything came apart .

[@jerryw6699]

why not use the box end on those head bolts, or a socket and breaker bar?

[@skildude]

I noticed that the #2 crank bearing appeared to be gone or loose as well as the sleeves. I'd think the Crank is probably damaged as well from that.

[@camgnilpe9300]

that is a brilliant deduction skildude!

[@PetesNikon]

There has to be a lip on the sleeves to hold each in place, usually the top edge has a lip so that the sleeve does not descend through the block to the crank, and when the head is bolted down it traps the sleeve from moving up. If this lip is missing, ground off or defective then this same trouble will occur with the sleeve just moving freely and only one way; down into serious trouble. glues and adhesives are not to be used in any of this. only a mechanical stop in the form of a lip can do it and this was the way back then.

[@jostouw4366]

Unless they are dry liners?

[@Und3adNation4L]

Not very mechanically inclined but we have a Ferguson to30 that’s very similar to the 8n. I’m going to guess either a cylinder wall or a piston is bad. Let’s find out!

[@delbertreno8089]

If that had the 0.040 sleeves you have have the block bored to take the 0.090 sleeves and you are good to go! But I would have that crankshaft check that bearing looked awfully loose when you were moving it around. I would have it magnafluxed for cracks too!

[@nohopps]

Ouch! That is not a welcome surprise. I am looking forward to seeing how you get this engine back in working order.

[@doughboy1966]

Good time for a Funk V8 or Six cylinder conversation if the blocks not savable. Those 2 8 and 9N blocks are not hard to come by.

[@indianaoutdoors4379]

The old girl droped a liner. I agree that the liner drop is ehat caused the pistin skirt to go. How is the linner supported in thoes engines? Top or mid support. Can't wait for more videos.

[@IronBarioth]

I guessed the sleeves so half right did not expect the piston skirts to be gone also

[@apachepaul]

Once the sleeves were gone, piston slap did the skirts in.

[@andrewwilson8317]

If the liners were too loose in the block then that can contribute to the failure. The liners are meant to be a snug fit in the block to give them strength. Without the support the liners are relatively weak and can fail, just like in your engine. Not a total loss but not great.

[@PlanetMojo]

I found a chunk of metal in the lower radiator hose while working on my Ferguson TO-20. Looks like zinc. Did they put zinc anodes in there the prevent rust back in the day? If not, I have random metal parts in my cooling system...

[@jburritt426]

I am glad you are rebuilding this old piece of art.

[@Equiluxe1]

The old Leyland diesel engines had dry liners that were just a hand push fit and held in place by the cylinder head,they came out if you turned the engine over with the head removed.

[@chubbysumo2230]

its bearing material. Likely from either the main caps, or the connecting rods. Just had my van engine spit some at me. If the cam/crank/connecting rod surfaces are not badly scored, you can have them honed down and use larger oversized bearings to fill the gap. Its not an ideal situation, but its possible to rebuild it to working well again. Edit: the piston liners in these flathead engines typically floated, between a lower stop and the head, which meant they would be replaced as a "power pack", with the piston and sleeve honed to match. The sleeve floating up isn't unusual, its usually trapped by the head.

[@KentuckyBackyardMechanics]

Actually the reason it is blue is because Ford offered that option after about 1960 or so they started painting the tractors blue so if you bought an 8n or a 9n or a 2n or the Jubilee or whatever you could take it in and get it painted blue and white

[@markwheeler202]

"Rebuild" sounds like fixing something that's still running. Hard to believe this thing still was, or not making the most infernal noises if so.

[@hankschaffner2999]

I have a 1949 8n and have owned it over 25 years. Stay away from the super cheap after market parts for your rebuild! Buy the best carb, cooling system and ignition parts you can afford.The cheap parts are total junk and I have been taken a few times using them! BTY I love all of you videos! Hank Schaffner Flaherty, KY 40175

[@raybrensike42]

I'm no starship engineer, but my guess would be bearins….poor, poor bearins….or it could be #2 piston sleeve, and #3 also..

[@repr26]

It's either bearing babbit(you hope), or it's what's left of a cylinder wall.

[@williamriley2528]

BOX END of that combo wrench on the nuts PLEASE...! GEESH...! I also see a bunch of play in the #2 rod bearing...

[@CarlinLusk]

YES! Or a deep well socket wrench maybe? Much easier too...

[@notsofresh8563]

@@CarlinLusk Even better, clean and lube the threads before removing the nuts

[@markleathers5797]

I agree!!! I wish this guy was a professional mechanic. It's like he never heard of a socket, extension and ratchet, or speed handle.

[@howardbodiford7130]

Mark Leathers he is a professional mechanic/ farmer he knows what he is doing.

[@Rezqewr]

@@markleathers5797 Yet he used an impact gun to remove the pressure plate bolts.

[@morgansword]

Hey, why not as I follow from alaska and see what your up against. I pulled wrenches for years and would be yet had I not got crippled. I usually am fixing but learning looks good too. I think you might of got lucky as it granaided and then shut down before pieces started wedging others to the outside area. I see mistakes were made in the installation of the liners like trying to install a dry liner and piston assembled or well, I'll learn with you.

[@mestupkid689]

I feel like it could be bearing material or piston skirts

[@colemichael7409]

Doug Anderson he did ask EVERYONE not just a few people he put his input in and your shooting it down your real smart eh got nothing better to do then to cause keyboard wars on yt

[@guy_incognito7538]

@@douganderson7002 dickwad

[@MrClickbang357]

That metal coming out of your so called oil is the engine saying "I GIVE UP!!!".

[@benphillips4423]

Could be piston chunks. Could be main bearings or rod bearings

[@Fn_dude]

Thank you for getting a mic. The audio is soooo much nicer. Thank you

[@aldoagnellini756]

cylinder sleeve and/or crank bushing

[@JohnHBatte]

Busted cylinder sleeve, I guess you weren’t exaggerating on the smoke when it ran years ago. Makes me wonder if they got the wrong sleeves .040 instead of .090. Years ago farmers used to pull the liners out and run larger pistons on parent metal, they were beast for a while but the metal wasn’t good enough and they’d soon have to be bored and bigger sleeves put in.

[@BarnyardEngineering]

I suspect the sleeves were loose from the get-go when the engine was last overhauled. Maybe a slip fit, but not a press fit like they should be. Eventually they hammered loose, then hammered to pieces.

[@MrRoverpilot]

Looking forward to see the progression on the rebuild. I have a 1948 BMC tractor a 425 with an industrial head on it that is to say my radiator grill is the warehouse industrial version

[@ralphhildreth6115]

Always use the box end of a wrench before the open end...much better contact...less likely to slip and less likely to round the nut...no worries just fyi

[@duanedean3256]

Possible wrong sleeve used. Perhaps to long and connecting rod caught them and snapped them off. Possibly happened on start up, not while running. A broken connecting rod running at full throttle will go through the block.

[@bartjuhhh6416]

My grandfather got a 8n 12 years go and we had a shot valve but when we rebuild the valves iT always ran, sadly we dont have him anymore

[@super6954]

Well that sure does look like a major problem. Hopefully its one that doesn't need the same solution as that new Dodge truck you had, anywhere else as long as it's not in your yard. I've never done a dry sleeve ford before, but Perkins has press fit or slip fit sleeves with or without flanges. The press ones are so tight they won't usually move once in and will break if pressed in wrong during install, or later that can cause them to drop, getting them out is a "procedure" to . Slip fit is a few thou looser in the parent bore and needs to be glued in place with the correct compound . I wonder if like you say the bore size was wrong or should who ever put those sleeves in of used some kind of bonding compound to hold them in place and that's why they moved/broke. With wear it might be a job to figure out, but hopefully there is a not hugely expensive solution to your problem at the machine shop. Maybe you could find bigger pistons bore the block and run sleeve less for a bit more power if it was tuned right, there is lots of motors out there don't have sleeved bores. Thanks for the video, Take care.

[@ditzydoo4378]

If it's ferrous metal mostly a piston liner. If aluminum then most likely a piston skirt. Neither is the end of the world as long as the Block and Crank are intact.

[@ColinWatters]

Its never good when there is more engine in the oil than there is oil in the engine :-)

[@camgnilpe9300]

WOW! thats so fucking funny i forgot to laugh. HA HA!

[@stevenpratt8655]

Been there...

[@travisdaugherty5817]

Cylinder liner pieces or rod & main insert ! sometimes sandbed mechanics hammer out anything they can find for inserts or bearings ! i have heard of leather straps being used to get it to run enough to sell ! knowing it wont last 2 hours !

[@drucifer_too]

Why would choose to use or not to use power tools to take the head off?

[@rydplrs71]

Purple gloves really ? Are they really better than your previous orange ones? I rock the orange ones trying to be a glove user.

[@GuyinWY]

I prefer the orange ones, ran out and had these as a backup.

[@rydplrs71]

Guy in WY something is better then nothing

[@tomholley5464]

And some liner chunks and probably piston skirys

[@tomholley5464]

Mains and piston skisrts and possibly a liner cracked apart

[@tcmtech7515]

Maybe the 8N were sleeved but I did a 9N myself about 15 years ago that was not sleeved. It had been rebuilt once before and had .040" over sized pistons and due to my grandpa having rna it fore decades with more dead cylinder at any point in time than running ones 3 of the 4 cylinder walls miced at near .090" out with between .040" and .060" side wall clearance between the pistons and cylinders ! (they were almost as loose as your piston was on the cylinder missing the liner. ) Beyond that the main and rod bearings were ~.025" and .060" out and thin as foil. So loose that two fo they pistons could be seen to visibly rotate back and forth when twisted. Guessing it running with near zero oil pressure for 30 years had something to do with it. Up until I got older and started taking over the family equipment maintenance, my family sorto f had this motto "zero maintenance equals zero operating cost. If you never fix anything, it never cost anything to operate." and yes, most of our equipment at that point in life was basically junk.

[@eldiablo7862]

Invest in a good socket set.....much quicker and less likely to strip a bolt head or nut that is stuck.

[@danielc5205]

It looks like a good candidate for one of those flathead V8 conversions.

[@donvoll2580]

Good day Daniel I live up here in Ont. Last week on kijiji there was a flat head ford V/8 for free, & being older mind doesn't think as guick, never thought of that Thanks

[@johndowe7003]

a i6 furd 300 cid would be better

[@donvoll2580]

@@johndowe7003 Yes I think your are right. Our neighbor had one with 6cyl. in, the rear end did not stand up if you over work them Thanks

[@calvinmientke3539]

@@donvoll2580 The nut that holds the wheel controls what parts will break. Oh! Ya! Don't show off pulling wheelies with your dad's tractor, breaking an axle. He get MAD!

[@johndowe7003]

@@calvinmientke3539 yeah my 8n is stock, i break traction before i stall out most of the time

[@keithnoneya]

Nice job look fwd to seeing it rebuilt and running. You can learn a lot from your viewers as many of them are professional mechanics. I learn from my viewers on my channel too. I agree with many of them use those box ends, breaker bars and deep sockets. You'll find the job goes easier on you, the parts and your tools. Thanks for a fun and educational video, thumbs up! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

[@TheProjectHelpDesk]

7:25 You had a lot of play on that connecting rod too. I would definitely let a professional machine shop mic everything out. That crank probably needs to be turned and a new set of matched bearings installed.

[@monday850]

the crank is done for .

[@richardturk7162]

Use a socket to remove the head bolts please you are going to round the heads off. Use the right tool for the job please.

[@eknaap8800]

Or at least a decent hex spanner (wrench), but certainly not an open ended one...

[@LowLegacyGT]

They were clearly already loosened.

[@eknaap8800]

@Dirk Pitt : Back in the day they used Carbide in car-lanterns. Why not now?

[@privateer177666]

Dirk Pitt so if your theory held true you’d be lighting a fire by rubbing sticks together? Modern tools for the modern man. Henry Ford himself would approve.

[@mountainman5025]

@@eknaap8800 Cause you wouldn't be able to drive in California...

[@gundorethemighty]

i have a question . you said you found water in the oil ... i think this tractor was ran very hot .. we had the same thing happen to our tractor not to long ago an it made alot of stuff break... given it was ran hot before we gotten it .... these are pretty good tractors not the much horse power . but they are some strong tractor's .. also these tractor's can get you killed if you do not hav a slipper clutch on the pto . once pto in it is direct drive

[@gundorethemighty]

the reason for my comment is the head shows it all. Take a look at the head it is black . when the tractor run hott ether it be blue or red paint it turn black ... so that is what i think destroyed this tractor to this point ... how could the happen well there are 3 points to this . 1 the internal thermostat which is located in the top hose is stuck close. 2nd the flywheel or blades on the water pump are ether broken or ate to the point of no return . 3 during the winter some farmers would open the drain plug on the tractors engine block to allow the water to drip to keep the block from freeze up an busting the block. in which all the water was drain out an never replaced... also putting 100% antifreeze in this tractor is bad 50/50 is better .

[@stevecox2530]

I don't know anything about these particular engines, but I expect it was running fine after the rebuild, until one day the thermostat failed to open, the block got hot, 2 & 3 liner dropped... nasty noises and it was all over before the engine had done another 10 revolutions. The liners in engines that I am more familiar with have a step at the top to stop them dropping, and a corresponding rebate in the top of the block, maybe that's something you can look into when you get it machined again. Good Luck. :-)

[@BobPegram]

I'd have liked to see the crank and conrod bearings. No question the sleeves broke up, but in all the chaos did the bearings get trashed too?

[@28YorkshireRose12]

Oh dear, I'm saying it's dropped a sleeve?!

[@stevenspaziani9159]

This would be the perfect time to put a super charged flat head V8 in the tractor.

[@josephlfrazier9727]

Before I go beyond 1:42.....watching video too see what you find......after seeing those pieces of metal in the oil drained out...........I'm gonna ask; "Is it a sleeved cylinder engine"? If it is, I'd say those pieces are broken pieces of the cylinder sleeve or cylinder wall it self. They look very thin though, but looks too big to be bearings. Or pieces of piston. Continue watching.

[@davidsample9130]

Likely all cylinders are over bore, hence the sleeves moved and got broken moving with the pistons, 4....well the lucky child I guess. This could be trouble sourcing sleeves.

[@MoosesValley]

Straight away I knew it was the cylinder liner .... but the devastation inside the engine was a shock. Keep all of the metal fragments in a big jar ... it will be a talking point for many years to come. Good luck with the re-build, you are on the right track.

[@brianworley7705]

I was afraid it was liners, but figure more parts would be included if the liner(s) are in the oil pan. But shape looks like a liner.

[@brianworley7705]

No wonder it ran so poorly when it was parked. Little compression possible in that condition. Keep us up to date on progress. I am interested in knowing if the block is still good.

[@ianallen2]

1:30 in the video, I think it is a crankshaft shell bearing and pieces of either a crankshaft bearing or con rod mount bearing / shell. Now to the rest of the video. Edit: I never thought of the sleeves dropping and shattering. I have had a Renault 4 where number 1 piston was completely smashed and number 2 piston was only half there and the engine still ran, although very smokey. Never before have I seen or known sleeves drop before.

[@rivervalleyfarm482]

You're all kinds of high class. When I fixed the 8n I had, i blocked the transmission and engine, pulled the front axle off. Then slid the engine out from the transmission while still sitting on the blocks. Then I set the engine on it's side on the same block and tore it down. Put it back together. Stood back on the oil pan and slid it back together. But i was younger and stronger (dumber) at the time.

[@robertpayne2717]

Heard of a guy who tore down a Caterpillar dozer engine down they pulled the oil pan off and found a complete 3/8 drive socket set in the box in the oil pan. At first I thought it was a rod bearing.