The Zig Zag Slide and Traveling Hook Systems on the Singer Model 237 Sewing Machine

[@maryrobers815]

I bought a one owner Singer 237. Really excellent shape. Thank you for your videos!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@andytubesewing1953]

That's really fortunate. I'm happy for you Mary. It's a very intriguing machine. I enjoyed it a lot. I hope you do too. Happy sewing and thanks for watching my channel

[@suzeeq3704]

Thank you Andy. I am so excited to watch your videos of my Stella. I have always been interested/curious about hoe the insides of a machine work. And I love to sew and make things. I am an old gal of 64, happily retired so I can sew more. Thank you again for making these videos. :-)

[@andytubesewing1953]

I made these videos exactly for people like you, Melanie. People who wanted to understand their machine better so they can keep it working and get more fun/use out of it. This 237 model is the only machine I have seen with this type of ZZ slide and traveling hook. All the others have a worm gear to camstack with pattern disc system. I do not know why Singer made this one different, but I do not think it could ever wear out ... ever! It is too simple and made of very strong metal parts. If kept clean and oiled it will easily last you through your golden retirement years. Just thinking of what you will create is exciting. Thanks for watching my channel. take care.

[@hitoortega1616]

Excellent descriptions thank I learn every day !!!!

[@andytubesewing1953]

You're welcome. It's good to learn. I really liked this machine and its unique travelling hook. Thanks for watching my channel.

[@hitoortega1616]

Hello Andy , I buy one 237 I get it today If work fine I will mount the buttonholer thank continue with you videos. !!!!!!

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@hitoortega1616 Congratulations! It's a very nice model, strong and dependable. I hope you enjoy it. Happy sewing.

[@terrymcclean4582]

Another great video. You explained that so well, it seems natural to me. In fact, I'll have to go back to some of your other videos to figure out how the "cam stack" zig zag works. I'll do that after I've finished learning all I can about my own 237. I wish I'd found high school as interesting as this, and I wish I worked as hard in high school in studying. Thanks again.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Man, High School was boring. It was for me anyway. I'm glad you find the VSM interesting. They are tons of fun to work on and it's very rewarding to restore them. Half my customers are in their 20's & 30's and I'm happy they are showing a renewed interest in sewing and crafting. Thanks for watching Terry, take care.

[@CharChar876]

Another informative video Andy! Thank you again.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thank you for watching, Elizabeth. Happy New Year.

[@jeremiahsgrotto9156]

Thanks for the video Andy, looks like you had fun in this one. ;O) I'm still working on the 1950 Singer 201-2, it had a lot of problems. The clutch nut bushing was broken, the thread take-up was broken off, was missing the presser bar lifter and faceplate, the wiring needed replaced, I'm upgrading that to the two lead plug where you unplug from the machine to remove both the wall plug and the foot controller. I took your lead and bought an LED light bulb for it. I'd say I have 20 hours in just cleaning it up and another 10 on the mechanical end. It was ready for the bone yard. I should get the Thread take up assembly early next week and then it can all go back together. It's got some scrapes and scratches but otherwise it looks pretty good and it's going to be a really nice machine, for a 68 year old Gal, I've been over every inch of her, she's solid now. I've taken some snap shots and will do a video of her when I get her up and running. It will be hard to part with it, but I have another to move on to impatiently waiting for me. ;O)

[@andytubesewing1953]

Welcome. You have been very busy! A full rescue and restoration. Very nice and thanks for saving her. The easiest method for me to part ways with a machine when I am finished is to run out and buy one that needs restoration. It's like a backward New Year every time: Out with the New and In with the Old. Have a wonderful 2019, Mark, and let us know when the video is up.

[@jeremiahsgrotto9156]

Thanks Andy and Happy New Year to you. On a side note, I bought several parts from the guy I'm getting the Thread take up from. One of those parts is the glass lenz you needed on your 99K and it was pretty cheap, like $3, still need it?

[@andytubesewing1953]

That's kind of you, Mark but I picked one up on Bonanza a couple weeks ago. Take Care.

[@paulerickson1906]

This is why I love your videos Andy. You go into elaborate detail on all the mechanisms which together which make up a little mechanical marvel of engineering. Someone once said if a country can make a sewing machine and television they can make anything including submarines. It is the attention to detail that makes the difference. One thing I wanted to ask, How does the mechanism which drives this model sewing machine compare to Singers other machines? Does it require more effort to turn the machine through it's cycles than than others because of all the sliding blocks in it? Is the needle to hook adjustment accomplished by changing the setting on the vibrating arm tie rod? What other models have this same type of mechanism in them as this one? I have seen similar bodies styles but with different numbers. ie.237, 257, 247, 252. Is it a fairly smooth machine?

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thank you, Paul. I have not actually sewn on Stella yet. I usually do all the work first then test the machine. I will say that, after cleaning, the parts all move very easily. Yes, it has the slides, but it does not have gears or belts that must transfer the power to the feed and hook. The power seems much more direct. Once that motor belt has the big, fat horizontal arm moving then everything else is along for the ride. All the slides, slide blocks, forks, and shafts seem really "beefy" to me. A very sturdy machine inside. It is just my hunch, but I feel like the actual sewing motion is going to be quiet b/c slides do not make as much noise as gear and pulleys with belts. The other reason is the oscillating hook motion mechanism is not right below the hook, like on say the model 337. That is done at the opposite end of the machine. I honestly am expecting a quiet running machine that has a smooth, superior ZZ stitch, but I'll find out after I finish up the machine. The needle to hook (shuttle) DISTANCE is set by loosening the top crank hex clamping screw and moving the hook/shuttle race frame so the race frame cap is about .010 inches from the needle is what I think works. I'm pointing to the top crank and screw at 1:05:29 in the video. For the needle to hook point TIMING, I believe if you set the needle at the correct height and then turn the handwheel towards you until the lower timing mark on the needle bar is flush up with the bushing then the hook point will be behind the needle with the eye about 3/32 to 1/8 inch below the hook point. A number 18 needle. I'm not 100% positive of all this b/c I have never seen a system like this before. I personal don't know of any other Singer Model that uses this except maybe the 239 which is the sister to the 237 but is only straight stitch without any ZZ capability. Whenever I work on Stella, I always enjoy tuning the horizontal arm shaft b/c even without the handwheel the operation is as smooth as silk. Really very smooth.

[@Zeebob77]

Thanks for the clarity Andy. There are lots of spaces and parts in there to drop a little bit of oil.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Welcome, Leon. Yes, lots of metal on metal movement. The Instruction Manual only shows 3 oil points & 2 for grease, but a little bit of oil never hurt a moving mechanism IMO. Thanks for watching. FREE INSTRUCTION MANUAL FROM SINGER: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20237%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf

[@bryancathey3242]

Andy, I'm new to the 237 model (just purchase one) and have an issue. I have been thru service setting NB height, move hook closer to needle (was skipping stitches), re-centered needle in throat plate. My issue now is when I'm in zig-zag the needle bar when in it's rightward motion it's slightly still moving when tip of needle is getting into material. On the leftward swing motion, needle bar has finished it's motion and the needle is about 3/16" above material. The only way I see to balance right and left motion is to (in my case ) to advance the cam slightly to reduce rightward swing earlier, which will automatically start the left swing sooner and will bring needle closer to material before ending it's swing (which I feel I have room to do). In your video you said your retired Singer mechanic suggested not getting into the gear position plate and vibrating cam. The manual does talk about lining up the holes in cam and positioning plate with NB at top of stroke, my holes are lined up. From your video schematics and my service manual it appears that the cam can be rotated on the gear body without disturbing eccentric stud and it's set screw, therefore not effecting gear to gear setting. The challenges I see are, can I get the 2 set screws loose once I gain better access and will the cam freely rotate on the gear shoulder. 2nd, if my estimate of how much to rotate cam is wrong I would have to remove all the same parts a second time and re-adjust. The machine I bought is really clean, came with original carrying case in unbelievable condition. I committed now to fix this machine. I can't really use machine in zig-zag because of this. Would really appreciate your thoughts. Bryan C.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I have not made this adjustment on model 237, but it sounds like you need to "Time the Pendulum Movement of the Needle Bar". Those instructions start on page 22 of the Service Manual.

[@bryancathey3242]

Thanks Andy for the quick reply. Problem I see if you could look at page 25 it shows worm gear attached to arm shaft with 2 set screws. Well my 237 and others I've seen on KZbin as well as your Stella have the worm gear machined right into shaft. I'm thinking that only gives the option to make adjustment where the cam body fits over the small gear shaft. There are 2 set screws on that connection of cam shaft to small gear shaft. I did some accurate measuring this afternoon, the difference in needle position from right to left when pendulum completes maximum movement is, left swing needle point 1.5 mm above throat plate and right side the point of needle is buried almost 9mm. Did Singer change design of horizontal shaft over the course of production?@@andytubesewing1953

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@bryancathey3242 OK, I am not going to be able to give you a definitive solution to your problem, but here is what I can tell you. There are two versions of Model 237. and I believe they were made in two different countries, Italy & Brazil. The Model distinctions are 237 and 237M which is an abbreviation for 237M23. It is believed that the letter M signifies the Monza, Italy factory which was the first in Italy. It is believed (as found online) that the Model 237M was made from 1967 to 1971. This model has a Drop Feed feature and no set screws for the Worm Gear as shown on Singer Form 730-237 Model 237 (no letter suffix) was made from 1968 to 1972. Opinions seem split as to whether the 237 was made at a newer factory in Italy called Vial Marsala that was built in the mid-60s or at the Campinas, Brazil factory. The Monza Factory was closing and work was being moved to the smaller Marsala Factory. It does not have the Drop Feed Feature, but does have the screws as shown on its part diagram/list. (That diagram has no Form Number.) I’ve been able to find many parts manuals/diagrams over the years, including one each for the 237 and 237M23. I’ll be happy to share them with you if you care to email [e-mail] and ask Alan for them. So that’s all I have for you. As stated earlier I have not made that adjustment on the machine in the video which is the only one I’ve ever worked on. Good Luck.

[@connieworcester55]

Oh what fun..!!! I see that I have a lot more videos to watch. well, I got my machine home today,, glad I didn't pay much. The good news is, I got it unstuck. it's actually really pretty clean, I could tell it was mechanical jam that caused it not to move. I found that it was the round black zigzag bar on top, was actually hitting the take up lever at the top of the stroke. I loosened the screw on the other end of the round bar and moved it to the right a little. well that unstuck it,, I oiled the machine liberally, and she's loose as a goose.... BUT... hahah.. there is always a but..now the needle will hit the top of the race off to the side, must be because if the vibrating zig zagger mechanism in the nose.. got to watch the rest of this video. this machine will take more than a day to fix.. uhh.. and also, on another note, after I adjusted the needle bar, and that's fine, but,, there seems to be a little slack in the part behind the set screw at the connecting linkage..which causes the needle bar to have almost 1/8 inch of slack that doesn't seem right? IDK about this Italian.. LOL mine has the feed dog drop knob, and a plastic base and cover.. well, more video.. Thank you..!! oh, I did find a tiny pin on my newspaper under my machine as I was working on it, have no idea where it came from.. haha. oh boy.. it's about ? 1/4 in. long and only maybe 3/32".. any ideas?? LOL,, this is going to be a fun job.. GREAT video by the way.. !

[@andytubesewing1953]

Easy. Does it moving that part in the beginning may have unintended consequences. Sorry I don't know about the pin. I actually like this machine a lot because the mechanical systems are so very different than most of singer machines and there's a lot of heavy metal in there. The only thing that seems weird to me is the bobbin slide plate. It just seems real rinky dink compared to the rest of the machine and kind of flimsy all the 237 and 239 machines I bought. The guide spring under the plate was broken from people lifting it by the bottom slide Hope you get it work out is relax and have fun. It's a long holiday tomorrow

[@connieworcester55]

@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks Andytube.! oh someone else has been in this machine before me that rod was hitting on the front near the take up lever, mostly when it was needle to the right.. not sure why, but I'll figure it out eventually . I didn't move much, and can put back what I moved, when I figure it out... happy independence day..! Thanks again for the great videos.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@connieworcester55 😊

[@connieworcester55]

@@andytubesewing1953 well, I have to thank you again,!! I am still watching this video. and I just have to keep getting up to try something else on my machine. LOL..(it's new to me, so I'm excited to get this working).. This is how I have fun in my retirement.. whoo hoo..I have 12 sewing machines now... You are such a huge help..I know this video is 4 yrs old, but it's new to me. .. I just now adjusted the needle to the center of the plate, with that top bar set screw loose, and then tightened it like you said in the video. with the needle position lever on the center, and the other lever on straight stitch.. it worked.! thank you, the needle doesn't hit anything now. YAY... BUT,, ,,now I see that my take up lever appears to be somewhat bent.! I think it had a rough ride in the back of a pickup truck at some point, the case is all scratched up with black scratches... that's probably why it was, and still is, (hitting ) on the piece where the black rod goes into the front piece next to the take up lever. so it won't turn when the take up lever hits.! all I have to do now is bend the take up lever back where it (should) be. That is some strong steel, I don't want to ruin anything else..don't mean to be so long winded. but your help is SO SO APPRECIATED.. The way you take everything apart and explain it. is so easy to understand.. You've helped so many people all around the world.. I'll just stop commenting and watch all the videos. Thank you 🙏

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@connieworcester55 Thanks for the kind words. I tried straightening a bent takeup lever once. Snapped it right off. Good luck, but just in case: www.ebay.com/itm/175694047477?hash=item28e82e68f5:g:uHMAAOSwK2xkPupG

[@AlisaWassermann]

Dear Andy, thank you for this video and for all the wonderful videos on fixing old Singers! I have quite a few old sewing machines. One of these is a Singer 287 which is very, very similar to Stella. I'm stuck with one problem. The needle bar on my 287 does not have any marks at all. Is there a way to set correctly the needle bar height in this case?

[@andytubesewing1953]

Sorry for the delay,, Alisa. I had to think this over. I'm thinking about the results after setting the NB height. With the needle bar all the way down, or at least the connecting link that holds the needle bar all the way at the bottom, is where the top mark would set just below the bottom of the NB bushing, Then you have to turn the handwheel toward you (front of the machine) a very amount to raise the NB so the lower mark is just below the NB bushing. I'm guessing the NB goes UP ( the UPWARD STROKE) about 1/16 or 3/32 inch or so to bring the lower mark up to the bottom of the NB bushin. Now here is the KEY, at that point, the NEEDLE POINT must be directly behind the point of the HOOK, and the EYE OF THE NEEDLE should be about 1/16 inch BELOW that HOOK POINT. That is the timing of the hook point to the needlepoint. Think about this; when the needle starts its upward stroke the fabric drags a little on the needle thread. That drag creates a tiny outward "loop" of thread to stick out away from the needle toward the hook. That is so the POINT of the hook can "catch" or "snag" the needle thread and take it around so it wraps around the bobbin thread to form a cross-stitch.

[@terryjanisch905]

Start em early Andy. Started my granddaughter at 5 with a 457. She’s a pro

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for the encouragement! She just started piano lessons so she should be able to handle learning some sewing, right? A 457 was a good choice you made I think. Take Care, Terry.

[@garyhastings1305]

Brilliant, Andy. I just got one these off ebay, slightly different. Maybe not the place to ask technical advice, but - on mine, there is so little friction when moving the stitch width lever that it moves left on it’s own when turning the handwheel. This seems wrong, but I can’t see where resistance would come from, unless it’s missing a part. It also has the same broken indicator flange Stella had, plus a broken motor pulley from shipping damage. I’ll try to find those parts.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Slightly different? But a model 237, right? It took a fairly strong hit to break the motor pulley I think, so something may have been knocked loose. The parts of the ZZ system are metal, so I'm thinking loose but not broken. This video shows the removal and replacement of the ZZ slide and explains the upright shaft down to the hook shaft. If the set screws on the shafts got loose then I could see the lack of resistance. If you put it in ZZ mode and hold it there then does the needle bar swing left and right? Does the hook travel left and right in time with it? Did you see the video for the vibrating bracket? kzbin.info/www/bejne/oHyxXqyFhKeqqJI I don't remember if there is a set screw holding the motor belt pulley to the shaft. If not then I think this pulley would work: www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/singer-press-on-motor-pulley-fits-most-200-series-300-series-and-400-series?_pos=9&_sid=b9ac9c01e&_ss=r

[@garyhastings1305]

Andy Tube Thanks for the link, my pulley does press on so that should work. I think I may know what’s causing the very free travel on the zz lever. If it took a hit on it’s tip, the force directed inward, toward the back of the machine, it could bend the “z” shaped piece of spring steel that connects it to the arm enough that the lever wouldn’t have upward tension like I think it should. I can see that the two bends in that connecting piece are not 90 degrees, more of an acute angle. I tried wrapping the lever with some thin rubber and pulling outward with pliers, and I think I may have made a tiny improvement before the pliers slipped, but that is some tough, springy steel. I would rather get the parts on a bench to bend it, but so far every screw in the linkage is VERY frozen. I already damaged one, trying to loosen the rod so I could center the needle better. Soaking in Kroil, alternating heat from a tiny butane torch, nothing has worked yet. Yes, the hook does move in tandem with the needle. The machine has potential, does sew when turned by hand.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Nicely done, Gary. I think you have it under control. Yes, frozen screws. Been there many times. I use a can of 8-year-old WD-40 and a hairdryer but mostly it is a matter of time. Sometimes you can put a well-fitting screwdriver in the slot of the screw and give it one or two good raps with a mallet/hammer and break the freeze on a screw. I usually just spray & pray while I take other parts off in prep for washing the machine with the Krud Kutter. Hollow ground screwdriver bits work best. Here is a free instruction manual if you need one: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20237%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf

[@garyhastings1305]

Andy, many thanks to you for your effort in making these very detailed videos. And getting responses to questions about seven month old videos within the hour? Priceless!

[@AmyFranz-r7n]

Thanks for all these great videos on the 237! I just picked one up from a thrift store and have followed all your videos but have a problem with the timing - do you have any videos I could watch for this relating to the 237? Thanks!!

[@andytubesewing1953]

I've never had to adjust the timing on this model other than resetting the needle bar at the correct height. That is the only direction for hook-to-needle timing I see in the Service Manual. There is an adjustment for distance from the needle to the shuttle (hook) so maybe that's your problem if the NB is set correctly. You can see some comments from viewers who also asked, and some say they found a way to rest the timing. Look for Geoffrey Scheid and Paul Erickson comments. I'll share the service manual if you think it will help. Ask for it when emailing [e-mail]

[@GeoffreyScheid]

Thanks again...how do you adjust the timing on this model? Do you have a video on adjusting the timing?

[@andytubesewing1953]

I do not have such a video. Normally if you set the needle bar at the correct height the timing is automatic b/c of the way the machine is made. Needle bar height video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIPNl5poi8akhpY If you are skipping on ZigZag stitches there is an adjustment for timing the pendulum movement of the needle bar. This fellow talks about it in his video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/boWyf36Me85knMk He does NOT demo how to do it, however. It is in the Service Manual on page 26. In the comment section of his video, he mentions where he got a free copy of the service manual. You can also buy a copy at this link: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/

[@GeoffreyScheid]

@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks,,, always very helpful....I removed the rolled pin and adjusted the timing and reset the pin. The set screw was also missing.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@GeoffreyScheid Congrats. (Wish you made a video.) Thanks for watching my channel, and nicely done.

[@bryancathey3242]

Thanks Andy for your great video's and your replies. A issue I have noticed with my newly purchase 237-M is that needle is not centered (front to back) in needle throat plate. Needle is clearly more forward in needle plate, with a #16 needle there is only about .006 and with a #18 needle is is perhaps slightly touching. I don't see that there is an adjustment to better center needle. Is this closeness ok or do I perhaps have a needle plate that not matched well to my particular 237 ? Thanks in advance, Bryan

[@andytubesewing1953]

The Part No. for the Needle Plate on the 237M is 352105 if you want to check that. Remember that the hook on this machine "travels" whereas on most machines it is stationary. The Service Manual has instructions for centering the needle Side-to-Side in the hole of the Needle Plate, but not Front-to-Back. On this machine, you adjust the Shuttle Race Frame to the Needle Point at .010 inches. (Shuttle being this manual's name for Hook) When that is correct and with the correct Needle Plate that should put the needle in the correct position in the hole of the needle plate. Traveling Hook 😃The instructions are on Pages 7, 8, and 20 of the Service Manual which you can have for free by emailing Alan at [e-mail] and asking him by name for the Singer 237M Service Manual. He will reply with a PDF of the manual and then erase your email. I'll let him know to expect it. Good Luck.

[@mariazhang8852]

I like watching your videos,even I don’t have same machine.every time I learn something.where can we buy the valuable telescoping magnet pin? Thank you

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks very much for watching my channel. This is the same type I have, but I bought it at the 99 cent store down the road. www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/pickup-tools/2114460?store=16277 There are many brands/types online and in hardware stores. I sure use it a lot.

[@mariazhang8852]

@@andytubesewing1953 thanks for your quick reply.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@mariazhang8852 Surely. 👍

[@totocat4421]

thx Andy

[@andytubesewing1953]

welcome. It was fun to make this video. A very unique set up on this model. Good luck.

[@84wasielewski]

Another question for you Andy! I previously asked about rust. I’ve run into an issue where there is rust and what looks like the very beginning of some corrosion on the gear under the cam and on the big arm (worm?). Happen to have any info on getting into that area? I will probably have to dismantle some right?

[@andytubesewing1953]

Removing the parts as I did in this video may be the closest you'll get to the worm. The "corrosion" you see may just be dried grease. Even the Service Manual for this model warns about removing the armshaft b/c the work gear on the shaft and the gear is mates with are lapped together at the factory, and changing that lapping, even by a single tooth, with cause a lot of noise and vibration. They do not describe how to remove those parts. It's best to try and clean with chemicals and brushes. The rust removers can't clean very well through oil or grease, so I use the degreaser first, then the rust remover if needed. I'll be happy to give you copies of the Service Manual and parts diagrams if you feel they could help. Email [e-mail]. Put "Singer 237" in the subject line. Allan will respond with PDF copies. Good luck.

[@84wasielewski]

Thanks again! I will degrease first and then go in with the rust remover. You have been so helpful, I really appreciate you!

[@mikehilbig8280]

This driven slide method of zig zag is a much more precise method of moving the needle bar, as the needle bar and hook is mechanically driven in both directions, instead of relying on a spring for the needlebar return movement, as the later cam stack machines were made. This design is much more complicated, which is why the other design took over on domestics, as well as the easily changed cams for creating different stitches. At higher stitch speeds this driven slide/swinging needle bar design is superior, so several industrial machines retained this method of needlebar movement.

[@garyhastings1305]

Andy, I finally got my two stuck screws unstuck, but did some damage to the set screw that secures the rod that centers the needle. I would like to replace it with an allen type set screw, but I remember you saying that few screws on a Singer are replaceable with standard fasteners. This one measures 4.4mm, or about .174 diameter, around 40 threads per inch, near as I can tell. It could be metric - machine is made in Italy - or US Standard, whatever that’s called, but I’m getting the feeling it’s a Singer specialty screw and I will be reusing the old one. Any thoughts?

[@andytubesewing1953]

I usually look for an original screw from someone selling parts of the model. Even if they don't list the screw for sale I will email them with a picture of where it is on the machine and often they have it and will sell it to me. eBay is a source more often now, but I usually look first at thrifty farm girl: thriftyfarmgirl.com/sewing-machine-parts I see she has parts right now from a 237 so you could ask her if she still has the rest of the machine. I think most of the set screws are either 32 or 36 threads, but you can look (download) this PDF and see a list of Singer screws: needlebar.org/manuals/singerscrews.pdf I only ruined a couple of screws before I realized it was faster/cheaper to take my time with them then try and find replacements. I did have a viewer mention he tapped out many of the screw holes on his slant-needle machine and replaced them with US sizes and Allen type (or other) screws. I was quite a project I'm sure. Good Luck.

[@paulerickson1906]

Andy, I have a 237 and I am wondering how close is the needle to hook clearance does it call for? My machines' needle is quite a ways away from the hook. I assume it has to be set by loosening the upper clamp on the vertical connecting shaft and shifting the traveling hook shaft either forward or backwards? Thanks for your help.

[@andytubesewing1953]

The needle "as close to the hook without touching" The service guide says to loosen that upper clamp and move the "shuttle race frame" forwards or backward to set the gap then tighten the upper clamp, AND the "shuttle race cap" must be adjusted to .010 inch also. I'll email you the service guide if you like. My email is on the "ABOUT" page of this KZbin channel. You need to subscribe to see the email address. Thanks

[@kaylaimage3385]

A very interesting video again. Still have not solved my problem. But I m learning a lot. Thank you very much Andy! You are so helpful

[@sarekaye9936]

I need help fixing the zigzag feature on a "federal/GoodHouseKeeper" 609. The inside the machine, the knob doesn't attach to anything to make it zigzag..I cant tell if its spring or something else that is needed. the knob doesnt turn anything inside the machine, I can see the missing link, i just cant tell what it is that i need

[@andytubesewing1953]

No idea as I only work on Singer Models. It is probably a Japanese model made for an American seller; maybe Janome. Does this look like it? manualsoncd.com/product/janome-609-sewing-machine-service-adjusters-manual/ That's the only model "609" sewing machine.

[@lex_official8260]

Hello, how are you? I have a sewing machine from the brand FINESSE and it is zig zag but the zig zag is not working, I have been trying for a long time and I can't find a solution, I don't know if I can send the photos to be able to help me.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm not familiar with that brand and have never seen or worked on one, so can't advise about repairs. So sorry 😢

[@CAPITANKIRZ]

tengo una maquina paresida pero la deserme y le desnibele la singrinisacion , no puedo ajustala

[@andytubesewing1953]

Google no puede traducir el trabajo "singrinisacion" por favor use una palabra diferente. Aquí están todos mis 237 videos: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Además, puede comprar un Manual de reparación de servicio aquí: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/

[@CAPITANKIRZ]

TIENES UN MAPA DE LA MAQUINA

[@andytubesewing1953]

manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/

[@barriejones15]

'How to remove and replace the ZizZag parts' I was hoping to see the removal of 'needle bar vibrating cam and gear', an integral part of the zig zag mechanism. Sadly that never happened.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I try to make my videos helpful and informative for people wanting to work on the machines. I'm sorry that you are saddened by not finding what you wanted. 😞 You could buy a copy of the Singer Service Manual for Class 237 machines for $10 and perhaps that could provide answers and cheer you up. manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/ I imagine other folks are looking for the same thing you are, so you could contribute to the KZbin community by making a video about it. When you do please let me know and I'll add a card on this video to point people to it. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.

[@CAPITANKIRZ]

PODRIS ESPLICALO EN ESPAÑOÑ GRACIAS

[@andytubesewing1953]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYG2mKibe8R2psk