My TOP 5 TIPS & Tricks for Brewing Great JUICY, TROPICAL HAZY NEIPAs

[@redcell272]

Thank the lord appt brewer uploaded today!

[@larzancover]

I gotta say, your production value has really skyrocketed lately. An absolute joy to watch and listen to.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Thank you! I am glad you enjoy it so much!

[@TheVindalloo]

Thanks for all the great videos

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Thank you! And thanks for the superthanks!

[@curtpick628]

A lot of folks will love this type of information, Steve. Great advice for beginners and old timers. Well done 👏

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Thanks for watching!

[@justhomebrew]

Solid tips! I’m working reducing my oxygen exposure. Great idea for a series, looking forward to the next one!

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@yovaalvarado9773]

Thanks! I have been homebrewing for about a whole year and your Channel have been súper useful. And this Style of beer is my favorite so far! And have been experimenting a lot! Right now my favorite brew it’s kind a “Witbier” inspired Hazy IPA. With Hops: Aurora (Floral), Mosaic (fruity), and Lemondrop (citric) and the T58 yeast

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Sounds like the long-forgotten white IPA! Sounds great!

[@dyyddson]

tip: use fishing magnets on the outside of a fermenter, they are quite cheap and can hold 10x more than foodgrade magnets. They dont need the magnetism hindering casing because they are on the outside.

[@dyyddson]

Question: WHen you say to purge lines before transfer, is it ok/good practice to just hook the line, and before connecting to receiving keg, one just uses a sanitary knife/finger etc to push the stick at the bottom of the quick disconnect to allow for beer to fill the line/overflow just a bit, and then hook up? It should be then fully of beer only, right?

[@Dcalzaretta]

​@@dyyddsonthis is what I do and it works great.

[@rickyjayalexander]

​@@dyyddson I fill my jumper lines with sanitizer and push it out. I use a fermzilla, so I just hook my transfer line up to my gas in on the fermzilla, because the unit is pressurized, and use a carb cap on the other end of the line via a disconnect to purge.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

That is a great tip! Re your question, that would work fine.

[@itterman]

I spent about 2 years down the rabbit hole on hazy ipas...Mash hops (especially if using thiolized yeast cosmic punch is my favorite) and ascorbic acid in the mash also help decrease oxidization, I like to drop my ph to below 5 post boil seams to help with more stable haze and also affects hop flavor some in a good way. If you do bigger dry hops short 12 to 24 max hours then cold crash helps cooler dry hops I much prefer.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Big fan of mash hops as well, it made a difference in my last hazy. Definitely agree with pH adjustment when dry hopping more than a few oz!

[@vruychev]

Excellent tips, Steve! Thank you for all that you do to make us better brewers and more creative with the brew-paddle lol! Cheers and happy brewing 🍻

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[@teaksimpson5763]

Would you please make another schwartzbier for the winter. It is my favourite

[@CanadianBrewingChannel]

Thanks for the great video. NEIPA's are my favorite beer to drink and make. I add hops into the fermenter 1 day after pitching yeast. I then let the beer ferment at 68f for 10 days at15 psi. Then I cold crash at 40f for 5 days. I close transfer into a C02 purged keg and let its sit for an additional week to carbonate. This method has never given me hop creep or hop burn. I have tried to shrink down the days of fermenting but have ended up with hop creep. Cheers.

[@markduret9538]

Just brewed one this weekend, basic grist, but I'm adding a ton of citrus hops throughout the fermentation and thanks to Kveik, I expect it to be finished by Wednesday or Thursday and I'll keg it then. Great info in the video!

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Best of luck!

[@natedizzy]

Great tips! I have a hard time retaining hop aroma and flavors in my brew. Thanks

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

It could be a few things. Oxidation is the biggest culprit, but the reality is a lot of those compounds just have a super short shelf life even if you're great about O2 exposure, sometimes they precipitate out and sit on the bottom of the keg/bottle/can or just aren't as pronounced later on down the road. Extra hops in the whirlpool and an increase in high-protein malts can help bind them together for a bit extra oomph

[@chrisblake6]

Great Video Steve- can you tell me how much ascorbic acid to use when dry hopping each keg? I don't think you mentioned? Thanks for all the useful tips

[@SCROWMD]

Usually about a teaspoon/ 5 gal batch will do

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

3-5 grams per 5 gallons/19 L

[@darrenryan8577]

Hey, Can’t wait to try this beer, What pressure of C02 do you carbonate at and how long do you leave it on before you switch to serving pressure?

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Usually I will set it to 50 psi and hold that for about 24 hours then reduce, whatever feels right for the beer

[@GREEENZO]

All good tips! My biggest tip is try fermenting in kegs under pressure starting at 4-5psi until dry hop, then spunding up to 25-30psi, it's seriously worth the hype. I really think the pressure locks in the aromas, it keeps O2 out beautifully, and the beer comes out carbonated so you can drink it at its youngest and best. Dry hopping is really the only gotcha point with oxygen, but my method is to slowly pull the PRV down below 3psi to avoid foaming, then run CO2 at 3psi, twist the PRV open which creates positive pressure, open the lid, toss them in, and purge. I haven't had an oxidized beer since implementing this method. Just make sure to use Fermcap if you don't want to clean krausen out of your spunding valve, trust me lol Sorry this is wordy, but I make some damn good hazies if I do say so myself and love sharing my process!

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Thats a great method, thanks for sharing!

[@csabarevfalvi6276]

THX! I have a question: How many ascorbin acid needed for a normal batch dry hopping (21 L beer, ~100 g hop)?

[@mauritsvanderboon9036]

I typically use about 5grams per 20 Liter of beer and that has worked out great so far. Hope this helps!

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Typical dosage is 3-5g per 5 gallons/19L as said above

[@rickyjayalexander]

Great tips! Another consideration is yeast choice. I like to use a British yeast that has relatively low attenuation. I find the little bit of extra sweetness and body helps drive a "jucier" flavor. Yeasts like voss tend to dry the beer out more and while they can make a nice beer, it's not what I prefer in a hazy. I also bump my mash temp up a bit for the same reason. Sometimes I will use a little lactose to drive this even more. I also use ALDC in my dey hop to prevent diacetyl production. It is relatively cheap insurance. Finally, Scott Janish makes a case for a cool, quick dry hop that I prescribe to. When my beer is terminal, I add the dry hops/ALDC via the hop bong, then immediately place it in a cold chamber to crash. Figuring it takes 12-24 hours to get down to temp, this gives the hops a bit of time at ferm temp before quickly cooling off. I've played with time/tempurature a lot and this has become my standard approach. Great video, keep em comin!

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

100% agree! Yeast is a huge and often overlooked component.

[@robo2490]

I would be wary of just adding ascorbic acid to protect a beer from oxidation. It is safest used in conjunction with a source of S02 to limit pro-oxidative reactions. It will lead to oxidation if there is sufficient O2 already in the beer-- so one should not add it as a remedy for accidently allowing a high level of O2 ingress (or when bottling). If all done under pressure it would most likely not have noticeable adverse effects (especially with a fast turn around of the keg) but again, use with SO2 if planning on keeping around for a while. Or don't use at all; last NEIPA I made was great with closed transfer and CO2 purging. Love your videos, keep it up.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Theres been studies on this - I can't cite them right now but the super-oxidation ones were done in conjunction with wine. Beer fermentations naturally contain enough sulfur to keep this from happening.

[@CityscapeBrewing]

Great tips. Love a good Hazy! 🤘🍻

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@patrickburke5523]

Thank you.

[@rswear]

Interesting timing, a friend of mine has been bugging me to try a Hazy IPA. Not done one before. Guess I'll take this as a hint, lol.

[@pablobelin7520]

Thanks for the tips! I would love a deeper dive into hops pairing on the cold side. Hot side I try to balance (right or wrong) IBU contribution by alpha acid. Could you describe what would be your strategy looking at the oil profiles? I know I know I should let my taste guide a recipe but I unfortunately don’t brew enough for that, I find comfort in numbers. Great job once again.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Group like oils/terpenes together. Want high tropical fruit content with low pine? Select hops for high myrcene and low humulene and caryophyllene

[@GentleGiantFan]

Can you add the ascorbic acid both times in the mash AND packaging? The last two batches I've done were pressure fermentations, so I added the ascorbic acid to the mash and just dry hopped in the keg (also my fermenter) a day after I saw fermentation activity. EDIT: I do 1 gram of ascobic acid per gallon if that helps.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Nothing wrong with that approach, I've also done this.

[@BWest_Simmer]

Does beer need to have Hops. i know ancient ale did not have hops.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Technically yes, but there are styles such as gruit which use herbs and spices instead

[@rivrivrivera2916]

Good job

[@knightonwarbeck1969]

Another great video Captain. Salute! ~S! 6 more years until Major?

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@stevewaterman5793]

What is ALDC enzyme? I can’t seem to find it

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Its sold by CellarScience: www.morebeer.com/products/cellarscience-aldc-enzyme.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAxKy5BhBbEiwAYiW--9xcEW8slY2enNATJyilLCW-gqWt3kEUxZ82J4b0VBTAK2dFGkgGLBoCi2QQAvD_BwE

[@Humlegruvan]

Great video! But maybe add abit about pH in the tip #1! Lower pH than regular beer really helps!

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Especially with high dry hopping I completely agree

[@ElementaryBrewingCo]

Great tips 🍻

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Thanks!

[@DarwinsBeerReviews]

Shout out to those Twisted Fate glasses. He sent me a few as well.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@edwardmeradith2419]

Eggcellent

[@bryanhedges6384]

Can you make a video on haze stability? I have made 2 so far and my last one was perfect for about 6 weeks and dropped out almost entirely. It lost its creamy mouthfeel. Also I did accidentally over carb it so not sure if that played a role in sediment. I have looked into ph, adjunct amounts, close transfers, whirlpool and dry hopping with magnets like you suggest. Final product tasted as good as any hazy I’d ever had but went down in quality dramatically just after 1 month. I am wondering if there isn’t something to over pitching adjuncts and causing too many particles to eventually drag everything down.

[@bryanchedgesk8297]

My process. 12-35 percent adjunct. Mash at 5.2 & have tried to drop to 4.9 post boil (unsure if this helps, just trying things I'm reading). Have heard boiling for shorter time (not sure if this helps or not, I have only done 1 hour boils). Whirlpool around 4 oz per 5.5 gallons at around 180 degrees. Dry hop with magnet post fermentation ( I seem to see increasing info that biotransformation can actually reduce haze so haven't tried bio yet) around 4-10 oz per 5.5 gallon batch. Best duration of great flavor/color/haze was 6 weeks. Would love to see you do some video on this if you have found things I am unaware of or if you are able to have persistant haze stability. I assume I still just have things in suspension. Recently listned to a podcast with someone from Omega yeast who stated they found less adjunctions can be more and if you have enough in suspension they can potentially clump together causing things to fall out.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

That is a good topic. In my experience, good haze stability comes from: -the right yeast selection (low-flocculating like LA3) -pH control and water profile (try to keep calcium from being too high) -Using the right unmalted grains in the right quantities. Wheat and oats or just oats have both worked well for me, and at 15-30% as well. -Dry hopping early to get that hop polyphenol binding with the proteins, starches and yeast interaction. I'm not an expert but I've only had the haze drop out on me once and that was when I used the conan strain

[@bryanchedgesk8297]

@@TheApartmentBrewer I can't argue with you since I'm 0-2 with haze dropping out but I was listening to a podcast with someone from Omega yeast co & they were said they have better haze stability dry hopping post fermentation. They also stated flocculation alone didn't seem to be the solution & had been able to create haze with high flocculating yeast that they have determined was haze positive (kolsch strain even mentioned). She also mentioned adding too many adjuncts could potentially allow them to clump up & fall out. I still can't help but think I got air into my beer. Could air in a hazy cause haze to drop out? If so, what would the timing be on something like that? I did a close transfer & also used ascorbic acid. As stated above, I got about 5 very solid weeks & it dropped almost immediately after that.

[@leroygross9144]

Is a pH meter really important to make good beer?

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Important, I'd say yes. But necessary, no. Unless your pH is way out of whack the difference made isn't huge.

[@heymulen1840]

👍

[@robjohnson1172]

I ferment in a Corny keg and for dry hopping, I put 3-5psi of CO2 on the gas line while I open the lid and put the hops in, then do 3 - 5 tugs on the PRV once its sealed back up to purge, seems to do the trick :) With regards to dry hopping cold, how cold would you recommend? I have seen other brewers suggest dropping down to 14C, dry hopping and holding for 24hr, then crash all the way down to 4C for a couple of days before transferring off the hops/yeast, so was going to try this method, but not sure if I should just go right down to 4C before chucking in the hops 🤔🤔

[@tortap]

This is what I have been doing. Ferment start 18-19C then diacetyl rest at 21-22 soft crash to 14C sometimes lower. If ambient basement temp is low I just let it sit at ambient, so I have dryhopped at 9C and that works. Dryhop 24 hours rouse with CO2 then I usually start cold crash at that point or do a double dry hop. I crash to 0 then hold for a couple of days.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Usually around 60 F/15 C is what I like to do now, for a few days tops. You can go super cold if you want but I don't recommend it because it will probably force the hops to drop out right away.

[@Michelgo20]

Let say I'm fermenting at 19°C (66°F) what would be a good cold temperature for dry hopping to avoid diacetyl and hop burn ? By the way, great videos and content !!!

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

I like to drop it to about 15 C / 60 F, once the fermentation is mostly complete

[@Will-jd2br]

I have successfully bottle conditioned NE IPAs. Sanitize and add 1/4 teaspoon of sugar to each bottle. Use a blichmann beer gun to purge/bottom fill/purge head space. Cap immediately after purging the head space on each bottle. The combination of co2 purging plus the yeast scrubbing the rest of the o2 leads to shelf stability. It’s a pain in the ass, but they can be bottled. I’m using a fermzilla with a clear beer draught system with the hop filter installed.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

I'm glad you've found a way to bottle condition these beers successfully! It does require some extra work for sure.

[@indiekiduk]

pH is more important than chloride sulphate ratios. E.g. wrong sparge ph will bring woody malt tannins, wrong post boil ph will bring harsh woody hop tannins. This is the #1 flaw in hazy ipas both homebrew and commercial IMO.

[@marklpaulick]

Can you make a recommendation for what the pH should be at those stages?

[@Dcalzaretta]

​@@marklpaulickI recommend sparge water pH below 6, and mash pH about 5.2 to 5.4. The chloride /sulfate ratio is also very important. Cheers!

[@indiekiduk]

@@Dcalzaretta and post boil below 5 if adding a lot of whirlpool hops. And might need more acid before dry hop too.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

pH control is very important as well. Keep in mind I'm only doing 5 tips and not ranking them in any particular order. I would argue that oxidation is the #1 flaw in homebrew and commercial hazies overall though.

[@chrisnewman861]

Skip the Whirlfloc (clarifying agent) addition. In my experience the Haze stays.

[@TheApartmentBrewer]

Definitely agree