France by Bicycle | PART 12: ALONG THE GIRONDE ESTUARY

Our ride on this short section of La Velodysee has been fabulous, but soon we will head inland, and this chapter is our last on the French Atlantic Coast and the Eurovelo 1. This section of our route offers some of the most exquisite scenery we have seen in all of France (which is really saying something)! We leave La Rochelle, but not before learning some hard lessons on VATs and DETAX and the complications of making big purchases (Julianna’s bike) in foreign countries. We head south, Julianna on her new bike, along broad sandy beaches and seaside resorts, reaching the Gironde Estuary, a large inlet that cuts into Bordeaux. The scenery here is magnificent, and we stumble onto Talmont-sur-Gironde, a fabulous ancient church and town that commands an impressive promontory above the sea. Our bicycle tour along the Bay of Biscay is extraordinary and this day really puts the finishing touches on a great chapter of our adventure.
Music:
Accordion and Glockenspiel Comedy - JK Productions
Pond Five
081716572-accordion-and-glockenspiel-com
a href="www.pond5.com/royalty-free-mu..."Stock Music/a provided by JK_Production, from a href=“www.pond5.com/"Pond5/a
Unexpected Perspectives - Stefan Belrose
Epidemic Sound
Sona - Valante
Epidemic Sound
Board It Now - Berny Shepard
Epidemic Sound
In the Hotel Lounge - Redeemin’
Epidemic Sound
The Mist - Gavin Luke
Epidemic Sound
Today Is a Good Day to Live - John T. Graham
Epidemic Sound

[@sergemilaire3474]

My wife and I are always excited to see your new episodes on our KZbin feed. You've done a fantastic job of filming, editing and finding the perfect soundtrack that captures your awe and wonder of the road travelled. Thanks for a very entertaining video, we love it.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Thank you so much Serge. It's been a real labor of love learning how to put these together, and it fills me with joy that someone out there appreciates it!

[@westpacificmarketanalytics2384]

So love you two, enjoy every video and thank you for sharing and your hard work!

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Well, thank you! We so appreciate you!

[@williamlee7262]

Just another amazing video, thank you both for sharing,

[@TheBicycleTourists]

So much appreciated, William!

[@colinwellman9480]

The wheels of bureaucracy turn very slowly in France! Glad you got your tax back in the end. From Rochefort there is a quieter route but neither Mr Google or Ride with GPS take you that way. We tried three times to use the transporter bridge before all the repairs were complete and it was running again. I thought Julianna was very brave riding a new bike without a 'shake down'. I hope that was the last problem. I was unaware of Talmont-sur-Gironde and it's now on my list of places to visit. I hope you got time to explore the citadel at Blaye. There is a very nice restaurant inside the ramparts that we like to use if we haven't brought a picnic. Thanks again for the video, every one brings back nice memories of rides we've done.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Thanks Colin. Sadly, we missed the citadel, although we rode past it. Talmont-sur-Gironde was a surprise for us as well; we kept seeing it as we rode along the estuary, wondering what it was. So incredible. Appreciate you keeping us with us! It is very rewarding to provide some fodder, whether for planning or entertainment, or for memories, for those of us who love bike touring.

[@michelesauret7779]

Very happy to ride with you and visit my France I love

[@TheBicycleTourists]

So happy to have you along, Michèle!

[@dooley-ch]

Excellent as always. No doubt a lot of time and effort has gone into the making of this series. Thanks for sharing.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Thank you James! I appreciate you joining us every week.

[@PumpkinVillage]

The country is just beautiful but those mosquitos. The bane of bike touring. Biting insects. That meal looked superb and the architecture out of this world. Music was spot on. Thanks for the video and take care, Al

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Thanks again Al! Before this I was starting to wonder if Europe had mosquitos at all.

[@cyclistefroisse9267]

Bonjour R&J, Roland, you’ve taken production-post production, music, at another level with this video. Wow !

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Bonjour! And merci! I have some good resources to work with. (Great countryside, pretty lady, etc.)!

[@eff6582]

Bonjour, It's nice to discover a coast that I don't know with foreigners!🇺🇲🇫🇷 Always good videos

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Thanks! Appreciate it! Always good to share!

[@kasinyvr9781]

We bought some cat ears for our helmets - WOW!!! What a difference they make. We listen to podcasts on our daily rides and it’s been a struggle to hear because of the wind noise. Not any more! Thanks so much for the tip. Absolutely brilliant!

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Amazing that something so simple can have such a big impact, right?

[@Biking360]

You guys are living the life and it is great to see. I'm pleased Julianna's bike worked out OK. A very bold move to change a bike mid-tour. Fair play. Also good to hear you got your tax refund on it though I'm surprised you did as I thought since you used it there might have been a problem.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Second time I've heard that about the refund. I guess we got lucky somehow! And I'm with you, I wouldn't have switched bikes in mid-tour. Julianna just thinks different! And it works for her!

[@rodofortier5166]

Once again, great choice of music, specially for the last miles riding among the vignobles of Bordeaux. Roland you have a way of bringing out émotions of gratitudes. Greetings from Montreal !!!

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Thank you for noticing! I love how music can dimensionalize (I know, not a word) the emotions of a moment. Gratitudes is the word. I’ve seldom felt more blessed than when on a bike tour.

[@dennispiciullo8060]

Lots of ups and downs! But all turned out ok! Great video, can't wait till next week's episode.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Absolutely loved this stretch. France is fabulous!

[@dennispiciullo8060]

Yeah, like mostly all of Europe, sometimes I can see Italy there. Architecture is very similar.

[@MultiWhitbread]

Wow. I want to do this one!!!! Great video. Fun to go along with the two of you! Thanks!

[@TheBicycleTourists]

This was a spectacular stretch of riding. Lot of variety. Thanks for joining us!

[@HackHunter1835]

You saved the best part for the end. Smoked PIZZA! Thats a nice reward for all those miles.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Oh yeah, and the canard!

[@juliannahenley4921]

That combination was mouthwatering. Smoked duck, onion, mozzerella, goat cheese, oregano, honey. I can still taste it. So good.

[@HackHunter1835]

@@juliannahenley4921 Now Im hungry! I hope you've been enjoying your new bike. Not to many people change bikes in the middle of a bike tour. I hope to see you guys in another USA Tour in the future. After seeing this Tour, the rail trails in the US just cant deliver what Europe has to offer.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

But the rail trails are awesome nevertheless. My preference would be one year Europe, one year North America. Back and forth.

[@cyclistefroisse9267]

That would be my preference, too. Sadly, there’s still a lot of work to be done about an element of sovereignty, visa policies, EU member-states jealously protect. An harmonized 🇪🇺visa policy i.e. US citizens can’t come soon enough, reciprocated, at a later stage, with a bilateral 🇪🇺🇺🇸agreement.

[@AdventureCyclist]

I've never had France on my radar as a place to travel (yes, yes, I know- I did want to see the French countryside and see the areas Hemingway frequented. Plus, France is America's first friend if that makes up for it) but the way you film it certainly adds points in its reason to go column. 11:31 The French Croix de Guerre medal. I would love to know the name of that person. Hard to say if it's WW1 or WW2 because the medal has faded. Amazing.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Wow! Thanks for that bit of info on the medal. It went right past me. At the beginning of the series I asked Julianna where she'd like to go next and France is what she chose. It wasn't my first choice. But it was an amazing destination, and, yeah, I vibe with the French since they pretty much won us our independence way back in the day!

[@lindahowes5949]

Great episode, stunning scenery, and nice choice of music. Julianna your bike is beautiful! You seem more upright. How do you like the handle bars? Great Roland had the fix for your rack! 💜

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Julianna loves her handlebars, more than she ever thought she would. Definitely less fatigue with multiple positions. I have butterflies as well, and I concur. For long distance touring they are awesome.

[@e-BikeLife]

Did you not love, love, love the market in Rochefort! The aromas are just breathtaking! And your ride along the beach in Royan! I remarked about the old Victorian style homes when we were there. Oh, and the sand on Royal beach was the finest grain I've ever experienced. Like flour.In case you are interested, kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4TFnntspJ6DiNU, Oh my.... what a glorious, glorious ride. I know I have said it before, and will probably say again before this is over, I just love France! Á la prochaine, mes amis.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Yeah, France seeps into your bones. Such a beautiful experience for he senses, in so many ways! The market was great, we would've spent more time but needed to make up for lost time. This was an exceptional stretch of riding.

[@user-mu2pn7zc4n]

My wife and I have been been watching all your videos since we met you in Blaye. Curious to see if we'll make it in or on the edit floor! We finally got a ride in last weekend since you know the weather in CO has been been pretty crappy so far this year but you two should come along with us at some point.

[@juliannahenley4921]

We loved meeting and talking with you! Stay tuned for your cameos.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Yup, just looked at the forecast and I think Spring is finally coming for real.

[@dondonner1095]

Daughter got home my Wife told her we are going to France so Dad can ride his bike.Ha. So we are looking into doing that and maybe it will happen. My Daughter is jazzed to do so and has asked a friend of hers whose son lives in Nice and has only lived there a few months what he thought of doing that and for suggestions. The only bad thing he mentioned was the snobby bicyclists in France. Did you encounter any of that? Beautiful video and if I do succeed in doing this trip anything you can provide tip wise I would enjot. thanks and the new bike looks merveilleux.

[@cyclistefroisse9267]

Nice (demographics, politics, wealth) compares very much with Cities in Florida.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Wow! that's awesome! I'm putting together a trip in Spain for later this year with my daughters. You'll have so much fun if you do, and just reach out and we can chat over the phone with tips when it gets to that. We did not find the French cyclists snobby at all, although we often had cyclists fly by us in a blur of color without so much as a bell or a "on your left!". Road riders and bike tourers are two very different animals. Maybe that's what he was talking about?

[@kasinyvr9781]

We are enjoying your videos as they remind us of our bike tours in France. Last year we did about 2,000km in Provence and are heading back again in late May for another 6 weeks. We use Komoot as well. My husband creates the routes himself and validates each ride using Google Streetview to ensure the route is bike friendly. By reviewing each route we know we will have enough shoulder and we avoid roads that have a lot of traffic. My job is to search out restaurants. 😀 While the Velo routes are great, we find creating our bespoke routes has made our daily rides more enjoyable and better suited to our style of cycling. We use the audible directions on Komoot, as well as the map app on our iPhones to keep us on the right path. We did the Atlantic in 2021 and loved our time in Royan, Rochefort and La Rochelle before heading to Arcachon and then along the canals and then down to Perpignan. We stay in each destination for 3 - 4 nights and do loop rides in the local area each day before heading onto the next stop. While we don’t cover as much territory, we get to know the different towns and areas, especially the wine appellations which to us, is a huge part of the enjoyment - drinking French wine a few kilometres from where it was made. We are looking forward to following the rest of your trip.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Sounds like we have very similar tastes in travel. We've pondered trips with our road bikes, just doing loops and out and backs from different places. Tuscany would be well-suited for such an approach. We did that in Mallorca back in 2019, and it was fabulous. We also use Komoot and google Maps in the same way, but also leave room to adjust on the fly. It's a great way to see the world!

[@davidharris4062]

It’s called a ‘Transporter Bridge’ there’s one in Newport, South Wales and Middlesbrough, North East England

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Thanks for the insider knowledge!

[@davidharris4062]

@@TheBicycleTourists No problem

[@TorstenLif]

I'm amazed you actually got that tax refund. My understanding was that it's for immediate exports only and if you use the item (bike in this case) within the EU then there wouldn't be any refund.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Not sure about that, nobody said anything to that effect. But like I implied in the video, I didn't expect to see it after a certain time.

[@TorstenLif]

@@TheBicycleTourists My experience is from 1995 when my wife and I were moving to the US to live there on an expatriate assignment. We qualified for sales tax exemption on a load of stuff that we bought before leaving but we had to have it delivered directly to the moving/shipping company that was also dealing with our furniture and stuff. Basically, the idea was that the new things couldn't be used here and I suspect that formally we should have declared them upon entry in the US instead.

[@TorstenLif]

But obviously things may have changed since 1995.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

We've had a couple of comments from folks in Europe saying something similar. Not sure how we flew under the radar.

[@cyclistefroisse9267]

Nobody said anything... but how familiar is the custom staff in a regional airport with this particular procedure? Then, this is very french, you can’t rule out that someone felt sorry that you had to wait all this time and ignored, deliberately, that Julianna bike wasn’t any longer in its cardboard box but assembled and wasn’t going to be immediately exported...

[@TerrapinCyclist]

Such a juxtaposition when you had to ride in traffic. Looks like France has great cycling infrastructure compared to much of the US, as well as being a beautiful country. John

[@cyclistefroisse9267]

Greener pasture syndrome 😉 ? ( reciprocal) You’ll find nothing in Europe which compares with the GDMBR nor than with your US rail trails. Never been to Portland, Or, can’t think of any city in France which cycling infrastructure compares. Roland video portrays perfectly the reality, from very good infrastructure to nothing, really nothing.The transition is brutal. All or nothing, 🇫🇷 🇺🇸 No different.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

I would say that the amount of time we had to spend riding in dodgy circumstances is much less in Europe, at least when you follow the many routes, EV or otherwise. Your point is a good one, that the US has beautiful long-distance rail trails. Europe, I think, does a better job of stringing together long routes. In the end I think it comes down to doing your homework.

[@TheBicycleTourists]

Europe has the advantage of having greater population density, and WAY more people of all abilities on bicycles. So, I agree, their infrastructure is much more complete and consistent. But with research, you can find many traffic-free options in the US, at least of, say, the Great Plains anyway.

[@juliannahenley4921]

Its sad to say it but America has a very long way to go with infrastructure to even come close to Europe. And the attitude of drivers towards cycling in the U.S. leaves much to be desired.

[@cyclistefroisse9267]

Europe is pretty diverse (this federalist likes it when somebody writes “Europe” 😊) from Denmark which is a cyclist paradise to ... Erm... other countries not so, Erm... advanced, there are huge discrepancies i.e. cycling infrastructure. If it wasn’t for the European Union, Eurovélo routes wouldn’t exist, Brussels and a peer pressure from countries which had completed their section of a given Eurovélo “motivated” France to complete its section. Drivers behavior in France has improved significantly with proper police investigations ( cars electronics data stored) of accidents resulting in cyclists life changing injuries or worse. Wrong time, wrong place doesn’t cut it in Courts which recognize cyclists as vulnerable road users.