Kuat NV 2.0 // Watch BEFORE You Buy

[@homeacoustics101]

This rack adjusts to fit bikes of different sizes. I had this exact same issue at first, but after adjusting the front wheel cradle, my MTB doesn’t move at all when I’m driving. Also the tool needed to make adjustments is stored inside of the rack. I’ve had this rack for 3 years and it’s the bomb. You just gotta know how it works 😊

[@jerp8922]

I couldn't agree more, I had the exact same issue. The rubber on some of the hooks eventually wore away and started wearing on the forks. I solved it with a front tire strap also, but I also place rubber hook much further forward on the wheel, so the arm crosses near the axle. With that combo, the hooks never move. I've got more than 40,000 miles on it with that set up, most of the time with 4 bikes. No issues. I will say though, Kuat's customer service is EXCELLENT. They've sent me replacement hooks and other parts immediately and without question, every time.

[@gregchamberlain7554]

I've talked to 4 CSRs from Küat. Out of those three were excellent in how they were willing to help. Buuuuuuuuuuut, I got this one older woman who spent a lot of her time being argumentative about the NV Racks allowing bikes to shift to the right. She basically tried to tell me that there wasn't such an issue, because she owns the NV 2.0 as per her. I had to explain like 4-5 times what was happening, and then when she realizes she was being a semi-suto azz in talking to me she finally says " How May I help you?" I say so you finally got to where you should have been at the start of this convo? I told her document that call, and get it to the guys in the back room that solve issues. I reminded her that her job is t9o help and not be adversarial with customer!! I did call back in later and got a rep that was interested in the issue and he wrote a ticket on the problem. I even sent him this video, so that they could see for themselves. He sent me something to test, and I just submitted that result back to them yesterday.

[@skiaddict08]

⁠@@gregchamberlain7554interesting thanks for sharing your experience. Any results you can share with us on the demo?

[@gregchamberlain7554]

@@skiaddict08 Yeah there is an Update. I'm having a company name Kody Technologies create a rear signaling light package that works for the 2.0 base. So the Kody Rep and I had this convo about a 160mm bolt and it I would need to use one. I told him that I would have a convo with Kuat. I hung up with Kody and called Kuat. Still Impeccable customer service, as the GSR went thru they list of inventory to find what I needed. She then made me aware that they sell this bolt on their site and where to find it. We even had a conversation about my testing the strap for me from tire that they sent out for me to experiment with. She told me that she had seen the video that I created and sent to them..

[@benwithrow5044]

I have two of these racks. I think they are fantastic. The issue you have is due to not pushing arm against and down in the fork. It won’t damage a mountain bike fork. The kuat clamp is made of a very soft rubber that actually deforms or wears to essentially mold to the fork. When clamped like this, the bike is rock solid.

[@TheBikeSauce]

Maybe if it didn’t rub the actual fork stanchion

[@spyder027]

@@TheBikeSauceIt looks like it would only touch the crown

[@EhlersMark]

​@spyder027 that's exactly what mine does.

[@benwithrow5044]

It won’t touch the stanchion.

[@benwithrow5044]

It won’t touch the stanchion, just part of the lowers/crown. No damage on mine after lots of trips.

[@anthonybedegi]

I believe you can also tilt the front tire cradle a little to help with fitment. Might help with roll back when angled outward.

[@deansantos8915]

I’ve had my Kuat rack for 8 years. I’ve taken it off-roading with no issues. I feel like this issue is making a mountain out of a molehill. I also just mount the front clamp against my fork with no issues of rub. If anything, the plastic is wearing more than the paint on my fork.

[@sjeants]

Likewise - been using mine for 7 years and never had an issue on multiple road trips - just keep the arm against the fork, problem solved….

[@maplic]

He demonstrated entirely the flaw, showcased how it can seriously be an issue. Just because you're lucky, doesn't mean the rack design isn't flawed. Some people don't want the clamp wearing against their fork.

[@harrymathis4743]

Interesting…I have a Kuat Sherpa which has a curved tray for the back wheel which prevents the reward movement. My bike has never come loose. The NV appears to be designed differently.

[@somestuffithoughtyoumightl6985]

So you’re going against the manufacturer instructions to correct their flaw and defeating the purpose of a no touch rack; which is a feature many purchase a rack of this type for.

[@yamahschector]

Oh yes no rub marks in 10 years on my 10 year old mountain bike fork, but the rack does have wear marks from the fork.

[@wayofthehike]

Great video. I have the Kuat Sherpa and have had my bikes come loose on me multiple times despite my best efforts to really tighten everything down. This includes heavier mtbs to lighter road bikes. Extremely disconcerting. Have taken to using a couple of Volet straps in similar fashion to hold the bike more secure and that has solved it - but agree that given the cost of the rack this should not be needed. Looking forward to your next review.

[@lieatz]

I'm glad you made this video highlighting this. I personally have a 1up (single - the cheapest one they have - i'm forgetting the name) rack, on my car, which i use and love. To carry 2 bikes, i used my buddies Kuat NV 2.0, and the bike which was exactly in the position you have it in the video, came loose THE EXACT SAME WAY before we got on the highway. It managed to slip off completely , with the wheel almost touching the ground- the only thing stopping the front of the bike from touching the ground, was the handlebar scrapping my left rear lights and getting stuck on top of the lights (like resting your hands on a table). Thankfully, we weren't on the highway when this happened. Since then, i've never borrowed my friends rack. Feels like we have to come up with our own solution for a problem which shouldn't exist in the first place when using this rack. Love your videos btw!!

[@Beiberhole69RVA]

Another nice vid. I have the same rack, bought it since it also works with my wife's heavy ebike with 20" fat wheels. I do the same with the strap on the bottle of the front wheel to the rack, I just use a long velcro strap with a loop. And since I'm paranoid about that failing, I also use the same velcro strap to strap the top of the arm to the crown of the fork, to keep tension of the arm towards the rear of the bike.

[@genefacchin9483]

We have been using the Kuat NV 2-0 rack for quite sometime with no issues because I've been restraining the front wheel as you described. I also carry sportbike motorcycles on a trailer and we always tie down the rear wheel and the front wheel when transporting. A lesson we learned from experience.

[@alparker3159]

Just bought a Kuat Sherpa 2.0. Kuat now provides a couple of 12" velcro straps for the front wheels “to be used when driving over rough terrain or with bicycles 35 lbs or heavier”. I have been using them all of the time. Just takes about 30 seconds to put one on. It's worth it for the peace of mind.

[@kunad3294]

I use this rack for a fat tire e-bike and works great. It's super hard to find a rack that can support weight with a 1.25" receiver. For long trips I do strap in the front tire for extra stability.

[@JB-bg6ml]

So I've worked and use several racks like this one and the rack isn't the issue. You only got two clicks after just resting the arm on the tire. You need to give more pressure into the tire then that to get maximum support. What you did is fine but more tension can defs be applied which would negate that problem you saw. Iv put mine in many different terrains and bikes include e bikes with zero issues or wear to my bike.

[@TheBikeSauce]

Any more pressure and the arm starts to rotate. Not enough friction at the pivot point. But yea, if you wedge it so that it touches the fork stanchion, then you’ll get sufficient grip

[@dperreno]

Pretty sure the pivot is not designed to rely on any frictional force to hold the bike in place. In spite of their directions, I think it's intended that the soft rubber hook DOES need to contact both the front tire and the fork to provide a secure hold. It never even occurred to me to try and secure the bike any other way. I've used my Kuat rack with many different bikes and never had any problems with keeping the bike in the rack or with the bike being damaged by the hook. The soft rubber seems to be very forgiving.

[@matt.3.14]

I have a similar rack, the Rocky Mounts Monorail, and had a similar issue with my gravel bike but rolling forward. This is what I did to solve it, although the monorail has a support for the back of the front wheel so it can't roll backwards. The instructions still say to put the hook as close to the fork as possible, which means the only thing holding the bike in place is the the friction between the hook and the tire. It works OK with knobbies because you can lock it in, but on a smooth tire bike it can roll forward a bike much like this video shows the bike rolling back. Contrary to the instructions, I put the hook between 11 and 12 o'clock on the wheel. That way, the bike can't roll forward, because the hook would have to get longer for the wheel to pass under it. The bike can't roll backwards, because of the support. And the hook can't fall down because the difference in the pivot point of the arm and the radius of the wheel means the hook would need to get longer to fall down. I'd put this into a video if I knew how. I'm a little worried about the situation, but I've done 1000s of miles this way (with an eagle eye out my rear-view mirror), and the bikes haven't moved.

[@mrveloshop]

Had this rack for years. Carried everything from road bikes to enduro bikes on it across the country several times, and never once experienced the issue you mention in this video. I currently have the Kuat Piston Pro X, but mainly purchased it for the built in lights.

[@mrveloshop]

@@StephenTy-wb8xx yes I have.

[@annihilator4000]

​@@StephenTy-wb8xx I have taken mine off road many times and not once have I had my bike be loose when I got to my destination. I do push it against the fork though and haven't had any paint damage on my bike.

[@ProfesseurX]

*solution/protip* When tightening the hook, counter the force of the push by supporting (pulling) the frictional axle. When you are compressing it, the flex in the rack takes up some of the force and isn’t allowing you to fully “click down” the hook, hence the excessive slop you’re experiencing with the hook dislodging. When you get a couple extra clicks to compress the rubber of the tire, this issue should resolve. I’ve driven plenty road trips with this rack without issue. 👊🏽

[@ValueAudio]

Please clarifying further - how to pull and which direction.

[@nathan.4130]

I have the Kuat Sherpa 2.0 and it has the same problem, but I just put the arm up tight to the fork and tighten it down as much as possible. It holds pretty good then. My biggest gripe with it though is that the release button on the arm isn't lockable. Anybody can walk up and push the button and take your bike if you don't have a cable lock securing it.

[@gregchamberlain7554]

All the reason to cable your bike if it is out of you direct view imo. Might not be a bad idea to have a spare solo cable that you keep in your car for extra delay of a possible thief?

[@spencergiles72]

Which is why the NV 2.0 has locks built into it...

[@williamjackson6316]

Thank you so much for posting this. I recently purchased a Transfer V2 because I wanted to replace my old rack with one that did not contact my frame. I have had multiple times now where I have found the hook over the tire to be loose so I am glad it was not user error and there is a simple solution to help prevent this.

[@johnchouinard6947]

I've hauled 2 bikes on mine fir 1000s of miles with no issues. I put the clamp up against the head tube/fork with no indication of any paint wear. Just make sure the clamp and that area of the bike are clean.

[@skylers2245]

Use the rack correctly and you won’t have any issues. It won’t rub your paint off, I’ve got 20K+ miles of Fox Factory contact with zero cosmetic damage to the fork.

[@spencergiles72]

Just put it against the fork. This is such a silly complaint IMO. I just put a small rag between the fork and the clamp arm. I also have some clear helicopter tape on the fork just to be sure nothing happens. If you do that, the rack is bomb proof. Also, the amount of shake you are getting in the driving clips is because you did not tighten down the hitch to the receiver as well as you should have. Tighten it down, then give the rack a tug up and down, then tighten the knob a bit more.

[@sergior6249]

You can also use a velcro strap to engage one or both of your brakes during transport.

[@edgardomunoz6611]

I noted that Kuat recommends the strap for the front wheel whenever the bike’s weight exceeds 35 lbs, its if it’s an e-bike.

[@RomanoCortesJorge]

I have the same rack. I just use heavy duty reusable zip ties that loop over the front wheel clamp and the bike fork as well as anther zip tie that loops over the rear wheel and the rack bed to ensure the bike stay in place even on rough unpaved mountain roads.

[@revelationdetailers894]

You are right! I bought the v2 3-bike and the fact the locking arm is not directly under the wheel center axis provides too much play. You have to secure it against a fork which I hate.

[@larryryan6003]

I know of 2 instances where the rear tire strap has failed, both on the rearward mounted bike. On the first, the rear wheel came completely came off of the rack immediately destroying the rear wheel and then the bike flipped around breaking the carbon frame. On the second, the bike tilted far enough that the handle bar and brake lever drug on the pavement and ground about 2 inches off of each.

[@BTcycle]

Kuat Sherpa 2.0 owner here and the velcro strap came with my rack and I always put one at the pivot arm side like in the video. Might as well use it if it came with the rack.

[@siriosstar4789]

Excellent video . i'm 100% convinced to NOt to buy that rack.. 😂

[@timothygermann780]

I have the Kuat transfer rack. Also the same problem. My solution was to wrap the hookarm with rubber foam and electrical tap. A little ghetto but allows me to cinch it against my frame without scratching it. I just wedge a fresh chamois between the arm and frame and never gets scratched. The second strap sounds like a good solution too but one of the advantages of the Kuat rack is how fast and effortless it is to just slide the hook arm off the wheel and and go.

[@SplitRing]

Page 12 of the NV 2.0 User Guide clearly indicates this very instruction.

[@mygamertag2010X]

This comment!!

[@TheBikeSauce]

!! Which? Hook close the fork, or to strap it down?

[@mygamertag2010X]

@@TheBikeSauce both! The user guide mentions being close to the fork and that for heavier bikes to strap the front wheel down.

[@TheBikeSauce]

@@mygamertag2010X Nice, that for finding that. I'd still argue that a brief statement buried on pg 12 of the owners manual is a bandaid on a design issue. Thanks for digging that up!

[@mj7791]

I also owned a Kuat. This is the reason most of us in rural Colorado have switched to 1Up. They hold the bike firm to the rack on bumpy dirt roads.

[@JitinMisra]

I just bought the 1 up quick 1.25 “ hitch rack. I love it except it doesn’t have a thru pin but uses a Velcro strap as a back up. Due to that I was considering Kuat transfer, but I prefer the first otherwise .. do you find the lack of thrupin concerning in the quick ?

[@nomlisx9145]

Have used mine for many years without this issue. Instead of having the hook near the fork, place it further out and cinch it down. There’s a sweet spot where the hook only tightens regardless of the direction the bike moves. Generally this is about the 10 o’clock position. And if you still insist on strapping that front tire, a Velcro strap is so much easier.

[@Allen_ClubhouseVelo]

Noticed this issue way back when I had my Sherpa. I used to tighten it all the way to the fork and the brake hose holder on my mtb would shred the hook up. This was actually a large reason for why I sold it 7-8 yrs ago and got a rack that only holds the outer half of the tires (Saris Superclamp, had a pro deal, otherwise would love a 1Up)

[@yamahschector]

12 years on the nv orignal. I had 9 bikes on the rack from a 26”downhill bike, 26” small tire hybrid, old cruiser, mullet mountain bike, 29” mountain bike. To a kids 20” mountain bike. My only dislike is the new Toyota fj I have sucks with the spare tire. I would love to go back to a truck. Rack 💯 works. Mine shows some wear from the years and the cable lock does not work anymore. The company is amazing they sent me free Velcro straps for my kids 20” mountain bike. They also have a loyalty program and fave me a discount better than used prices for a new rack

[@BenjaminSmith2]

Out of curiosity, I wonder if changing the placement of the arm would make a difference? Moving it more forward over the front wheel, applying more force to keep the bike from rolling forward.

[@jessemartin6461]

Exactly what I’m thinking

[@twinturbo3374]

I had the exact same problem with my Thule rack. Front of my bike would sometimes pop out of that arm on my rack. I got rid of that rack.

[@virginiascurti5036]

On my Transfer V2, I noticed this and gotten a rubber strap large enough for the front tire and the rack frame and wheel and strap it in place.

[@srb99100]

Here is my issue: I drove 400 miles before realizing that the magnet keeping the cable lock secure inside the housing is very weak. It dragged along the road melting its way into Colorado. Embarrassing and unfortunate. Just bought this rack 3 days ago.

[@CharlieMetcalf]

Hey, thanks for the video. I dont use a rack as I have a truck, but I did want to ask, where did you get your hat from? I love that hat!

[@teddgram]

That is the identical design of my Yakima Dr. Tray. I've never had my rack do that. I wonder if that wheel tray for the front wheel keeps it from shifting.

[@Thomas-fy9yc]

I have a microfiber towel i put on the fork to keep it from rubbing and I click it down enough to actually compress the tire slightly…and another little tower for the real wheel loop to keep it from scuffing the carbon. Works fines, have tons of hours with it on the back of a very bouncy jeep wrangler. BTW i have the 1UP rack with 4 bike holders, they’re both fine.

[@BicMichuM]

Im sure u can sttill press that clamp closer to the fork. If it rubs a bit im pretty sure it wont damage the fork...arent all those type of bike racks the same? My yakima dr tray hasnthe same clamp and i just had to push it down more and its been rubbing the fork a bit and its been fine for 4yrs

[@TheShavenChimp]

Ive had the NV 2.0 on my forester for a month and the problem i found was that when the rack is in the folded up position the cradle that hooks over the front wheel sits right in front of the exhaust pipe and has melted it slightly

[@jenniferk5281]

We haven’t had this issue, just be sure to lock out the shocks while in rack. Good tip though to strap tire for extra stability just in case.

[@vashon100]

Why would locking the shock help, since it is grabbing the tire/wheel?

[@jenniferk5281]

@@vashon100 locking it would keep it firm so it doesn’t compress and allow the tire to move away from the rack holder.

[@vashon100]

@@jenniferk5281 Not trying to argue, but I could see how letting air out of the tire would then loosen the grip, but the shock going up and down doesn't change the aired diameter of the tire which is held by the grip. In other words, once the grip is set on the tire, whether the shock is extended or compressed after that, the grip doesn't get looser or tighter.

[@tomkinsley3818]

Great video. I love the extra strap suggestion. What size toe hitch is on your car in this video, 2.0"? I would assume the smaller toe hitch would shake more than the 2.0"

[@TheBikeSauce]

I use 2”. There’s almost no play at the hitch; that connection is solid.

[@TSYT]

I’ve been using this rack for 4 years and I’ve never had a bike fall off or come loose. I frequent many gravel and rough roads. I know you continue to mention the fact the arm should not touch the fork but I actually push the arm up to the fork. Touching the fork and this pretty much eliminates this issue you are having. If anything your complaint video should be on how much the wheel strap can scratch a carbon wheel when it gets dirty on a wet gravel road. I have a permanent scuff mark on a set of roval carbon wheels because of that strap. I just make sure to spin the wheel around and keep using the same section 😂 Oh and the 1up rack, yea you’ll have complaints on that also. The rack tension design causes the rack to lean. Very noticeable in the upright position “stored not carrying a bike”. Also the bike has a lot of movement when going down the road. More than the kuat. You could also mention the fact the 1up black cost extra yet fades after one season. Small issues here and the kuat does the better job imo. GL with the next video.

[@joshelrod1456]

Correct, the manual states that the hook should be as close to the fork as possible. I have had the Sherpa 2.0 since release, and I have never had a bike come loose either. Bikes don't come loose even if I forget to use the Velcro strap as instructed.

[@fayswan69]

The constant rubbing on my forks because of how close the ratcheting arm needs to be to the fork so it doesn't loosen up is annoying for a $700 bike rack.

[@CogMarks]

My Sherpa 2.0 does the same thing. The arm works loose. It is disappointing considering that my rack is just over a month old, and it was expensive.

[@nimbuscycles2354]

Same issue with their Sherpa 2.0. Great rack in terms of weight at 26lbs and supports put to 40lbs per bike.. but i found myself concerned with this same concern.

[@bmwpowere36m3]

Same design and issue on the Thule T2 Pro XTR...switched over to QuikrStuff, no regrets.

[@zanetaylor7]

Before I heard your solution, I had an idea. Frankly, I've never left any space between fork and arm. And the fox fork brake line securing bracket it has chewed up each and every arm I've had. Here's my idea: Create a (3dprinted) bracket that is secured via zipties to better sit between the arm and the fork without damaging it. The downside is that the bracket might need to be specific to each fork AND tire combo. But it could work for me if I find a way to do it. OR: Create something that goes over the brake line bracket. But its still going to be the primary point of contact as there isn't anything else that can help. And I want to carry friend's bikes who won't have that.

[@danielboesch9057]

I have the same rack and I am pretty sure the instructions say to have the front bar touch the front of the bike. That is what I do and I never had this issue. The rubber on the bar is purposely soft and meant to rub away when it comes in touch with the fork or external cables. It can be replaced. This is not an issue.

[@TheBikeSauce]

It’ll take the paint off a fork

[@JJJ5.7]

Waiting for your 1up comparo... I wondrer if dropping the wheel cradle a notch will help the back and forth motion.

[@jp93309]

Solved it with my bodge: a cut piece of foam from a corkscrew pool noodle. It acts a cushion between the Kuat fork arm and my carbon fork. Makes the contact solid and doesn’t mar the carbon fork. Oh and my Sherpa 2.0 came with that front velcro strap.

[@Realkevintubbs]

the Saris rack of similar design has the same problem. I plan to replace it with a 1up whenever I have $$ for a new vehicle that takes a 2" hitch.

[@arleneandmike]

I replaced my One Up with a Kuat 5 years ago. The Kuat rack came with 2 Velcro closure straps with instructions to use them to secure the front tire. I misplace the straps and Kuat mailed me 2 more no charge. The Kuat is far lighter than the One Up and just as strong.

[@850h3]

Thanks for this video! Easy fix to a problem that was giving me anxiety.

[@davidcummings5826]

I’d be interested to see if other tray racks have the same issue. Is it brand-specific, or the design as a whole?

[@dilvishehldar1634]

Seems to be lots of agreements that this rack is flawed. Yet it is the one recommended by every professional bike technician I have talked to. This includes cycle loft and REI. So what IS the recommended bike rack? I have 2 new canondale neo 4 e-bikes what are 50 pounds each. I need a dependable solution.

[@igorgetsin3646]

Of all the issues I have with the rack bikes coming lose is not one of them. I carried 2 electric mountain bikes, I carried 4 bikes with extension. I crossed speed bumps and I saw the bikes dance in the rear window but never lose. I even forgot to cinch the rear tire on the I side bike and the bike didn't fall off or even dropped the tire. I did have problems with original locking pin for the hitch, rust on locking cables and failed arm. But Kuat would send replacement parts for free every single time. These racks are everywhere. Clearly people value the quality and durability. The rack lives on the car too, pretty much comes off before a skiing trip.😊

[@tracerxrider]

I have this rack and If I know I’ll see some rougher roads, I’ll rotate the crank arm down and wrap a strap around the pedal spindle and the rack body for a third, and central, contact point

[@ConsciousEnneagram]

Brilliant! I'm going to order buckle straps for my next bike road trip!

[@xbrianx1990]

This issue is even more exaggerated on a 20” bmx bike with the adapters. You have to have contact with the fork which in my case is unacceptable (carbon fork) and the bike still shakes. I quickly replaced it with a thule that does not have this issue. The front wheel cradle just needs to extend up higher on the backside of the tire to prevent the bike from being able to travel backwards. Seems like such a simple obstacle yo overcome.

[@gregchamberlain7554]

I just purchased this rack today, and are glad I saw this footage. Personally I think Küat should supply additional straps to allow the binding of the forward wheel. That being said, in the kit there is a wheel adapter that comes with two straps. There is a Rear Tire Strap Extender, and a Front Tire Security Strap which would both work. Or as you have done simply fabricate a Front Wheel Security Strap. Let me say that prices of Bike Racks is borderline insane. But if you have a Carbon frame and wheels you just cant go with a lot of the cheaper racks. Lastly, I ordered the License plate adapter for mine from Küat, since I don't need a ticket for an obscured plate. Now I need to find out if I need a third plate so I don't have to change plate locations if i decide t not have the rack installed on any given day?

[@kenetics1344]

Use a strap or band to pull on the brake levers. The brakes being locked will also help the wheels from wanting to rotate

[@VR6NAVYVW]

That is just like the local busses.but with no strap in the back. Always worked great for me. I use to take busses a lot.

[@DougSuna]

But isn’t one up flawed too- if you have a rear fender or rack the back wheel isn’t a good contact point without removing both and that’s a pain.

[@lolbubs11111]

I have the Kuat Sherpa 2.0 rack, which has a similar issue. I guess the front wheel cradle on the Sherpa is more pronounced so there is less roll-back effect, though. Anyway, I do something very similar -- strap the front wheel down with a Voile strap.

[@theshonen8899]

Wouldn't this issue be mitigated by clamping the tire further to the front of the bike? Basically ignore kuat's instruction and clamp the tire around the 11 o'clock position so that it is pressed into the cradle? In that case they arm wouldn't be able to roll towards the back.

[@mattkavanaugh5623]

I think that if the front wheel of the bike is clamped at 11 o'clock it would allow the arm to fall towards the front of the bike and possibly completely free the front wheel from the rack. I have a Thule rack of similar design to the Kuat. I'm going to test it to see if it has the same design flaw/need for front wheel strap.

[@RunBikeMike]

The Kuat Piston would be a more 1:1 review to the 1up. Nice solution to the issue you found.

[@TheBikeSauce]

True! But I’m having a hard enough time getting my hands on a 1up 😄

[@vashon100]

@@TheBikeSauce Are they out of stock?

[@fasanojp]

BikeSause: You might want to also consider the QuickRStuff Mach 2 bike rack.

[@mak2969]

Your problem isn't friction points or angles. Your rack itself isn't firmly snugged to the hitch. When you are driving or shaking the bike the whole rack is moving much too much. Use the mechanism built into the rack to snug the rack to the hitch firmly. I've had a Kuat Sherpa 2 and now the NV Base 2.0 and have almost zero shake even with my 60 lb. ebike mounted.

[@TimR123]

Any theory on why the pivot is there? I presume it provides some benefit (even if the cost is scary).

[@TheBikeSauce]

My guess would be too much hardware and bulk if they moved it lower and more forward

[@franklang6563]

Same!! I have this rack on the back of a lifted Jeep. The bike would come loose a lot. Went with the extra strap to hold it in place. Placing the hook farther forward looks good, will try that also.. Thanks for this video!!

[@roesch1111]

Yup get a 1UP. Had up to 4 bikes traveling 500mi no problem. Their system is great, not fool proof but it works as indented.

[@walkonearthofficial]

Moved the back strap to the left…..

[@TheBikeSauce]

Yea I used to do that too. Helps a little, but not enough applied torque - moment arm is only a couple inches.

[@walkonearthofficial]

@@TheBikeSauce well….that answers that 😆

[@dannydiaz801]

Mine came with two front tire straps to secure it.

[@evangossell1980]

I put an oven mitt in there to keep it right

[@PKENDO1]

Which set of straps do you use or recommend?

[@TheBikeSauce]

Anything works. Something that cinches down and has a buckle is best

[@stevelutzke9600]

We ALWAYS strap both wheels, doing this our bike never moves….

[@youngtang7130]

Great review!!! thank you, I was going to buy this rack...

[@nat.outdoors]

interesting video. We've had our Kuat NV 2.0 for almost 7 years now and never encountered issues with it. Living in BC we go on bumpy dirt roads, highways full of potholes and windy conditions and it did not really move anything. We do always lock our bikes up with the cable lock and/or additional cable lock because of thieves, but not sure if that would necessarily make it more stable. Had some wear on some parts and the company was awesome to deal with regarding warranty! We do always shake and pull the bike on the rack to make sure it is secure before heading out. Yes the bike rack moves when you drive, but that has never caused issues.

[@superameric8]

Same here. I have two 60lb e bikes and 3 years with the rack. Boy it does rock. But never had an issue of the bike jumping out. The swag actually keeps tailgaters back 😂

[@gregorywright1684]

Exhaust location may ruin wheels

[@grambothelegend7388]

Good critical design thinking! That helps people a lot.

[@burton926]

This style of rack really requires the rack arm to be against the fork crown. This gets in the way of Kuat's "touchless" claims and CAN RISK scuffing the paint/anodization on your fork crown, which is purely cosmetic. The instructions reading "as close as possible without touching" is Kuat covering their a** if someone wants to make a damage claim against them for the paint rub. The 1up rack does remove this issue, and it's a great rack, but it's expensive. The Kuat, and any single arm "touchless" rack, is a fine design if you're willing to accept that there may be a minor cosmetic scuff on your fork crown. Nice to see that the front wheel strap does reduce movement of the fork arm, but I think I'll just keep cinching my Thule T2 against the same rub spot on my fork that I always have.

[@moymoybulingit3315]

Nice review! I have the same problem on my Kuat.

[@chubscoi]

Great idea for a fix

[@seanyiya]

Lower the cradle angle with Allen wrench and you shouldn’t have problem..

[@jeromep4148]

You have misread the instructions - you cinch the support on the tire right AT the front fork. You are not using the product correctly. I have a 3 bike setup and carry very heavy emtbs as well as light weight xc mtbs. When used correctly the attachment points are very secure.

[@philjones4903]

You have the wrong rack for the mountain bike. You have to get the bigger/longer rack for the mb. I have no problem after hundreds of miles.

[@tippy35075]

im surprised you're only running two piston callipers, and not four

[@toddfarmer1165]

Great video. Thanks for the tip

[@rajivgomes1818]

@TheBikeSauce this is basically the same design as the Yakima frontloader and I had the misfortune of my bike dismounting and flying off the roof on a freeway .these racks are flawed and these companies don't take any responsibility for this

[@brianbeyer9816]

My bike has come loose many times

[@curtlizzi3167]

Great vid, thanks.

[@PhilKrueger-y4u]

much easier to simply wrap a voile strap around the tire and fork mount.

[@teresad7174]

Uhhhh that's a pretty significant issue with that design

[@chencho7083]

I am very lucky, my neighbor bought one but he has a heavy ebike and this rack is not for ebikes (I always fix his bikes no charge). Well he gave it to me and I did not know they are so expensive, now I am planning to put a hitch in my Subie and haul my bikes with a strap for the front wheel like you showed. Thanks...

[@TheBikeSauce]

Sweet deal!

[@Dhungerf60]

Dude, your doing it wrong. The front securing arm needs to be “as close to the fork as possible”, the instructions say nothing about not touching, it needs to touch…….. I’ve used this rack for many years without any issues at all, it is possibly the best rack available.

[@danfuerthgillis4483]

It's a dumbass design as it would be better with a DUAL rod system top wheel lock system with side rods going to the main mount. This would not only provide better support ( gripping wheel from both sides) but the angle rods down to the mount would prevent any forward or back movement.

[@DougSuna]

A dual design like one up would not be good for rear fenders or rear racks. It’s not so simple

[@danfuerthgillis4483]

@@DougSuna A 3 point rod and arc system is the best way to go, one rod and arc to the front wheel, another for the middle bike bar. the last rod and arc for the back wheel or the seat stays.