Subaru Outback Forester CV Axle Shaft Replace

[@jeffwatson2915]

Thank you! Field Service Manual says to pull everything off - about 3x as much work. One note from a shade tree mechanic without a lift... Make sure the front tire on the opposite side is off the ground. Otherwise the sway bar is under pressure and makes it near impossible to get the spindle back onto the strut. Maybe that is obvious - but I had to learn the hard way.

[@jamesfrench4337]

If I'm understanding you correctly, you mean that you used a bottle jack or some such and only one front tire was off the ground? So if I use a floor jack and lift the whole front of the car off the ground I should be fine?

[@tarap5618]

@@jamesfrench4337 yes

[@RowanHawkins]

​@@jamesfrench4337If you are going to be crawling under to dislodge the inner cv from the diff/trans, you should put it up on jackstands anyway. Then its just easier to keep everything level and unloaded.

[@JB-ss3bv]

Car Doctor, I owe you one! I am a confident home mechanic but had never done a cv axle before. I watched your clear and concise instructions and then did the job myself on my 18’ in an hour and a half start to beer. Seriously I owe you a beer, thanks.

[@randyphillips1029]

where did you buy your axle? I've been searching the internet for an hour for my 19'.

[@JB-ss3bv]

@@randyphillips1029 I have had to buy two, both occasions from a dealer.

[@randyphillips1029]

@@JB-ss3bv thanks. I looked everywhere, and it looks like the dealer is the only one who sells them.

[@JB-ss3bv]

@@randyphillips1029 when you get the axle, make sure they give you a new hub nut. The dealer forgot one time. They are single use but only $3.50 at least.

[@thackmd]

Great video. Very detailed, this guy knows what he is doing. I been working on my own cars for 50 years, taught by my father but with this video I think anyone could perform this task. Thank you for making this so simple.

[@williamtuttle8231]

Best video on this task. A lot of videos rush thru the work without showing clearly what they are doing on some steps. For all of us nonprofessional mechanics, we need to see exactly what is going on. Thank you for the excellent video.

[@robstone2137]

Thanks for the vid. Just finished my wife's 2012 Forester, was way easier than I had expected. Piece of cake

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Very cool. Take care

[@KeatonsCarlott]

Did u do the ball joint or the knuckle

[@moregrouchy]

@@KeatonsCarlott Blind? Are you blind? Not only did he do one and not the other, but he explained why, right here in this video. SMH.

[@351blazer]

@@moregrouchy The ball joint instead of strut pinch bolts does not change the alignment. I did not hear him say he checked the alignment.

[@RowanHawkins]

​​@@351blazerhe specifically calls out to mark the position of the eccentric (upper bolt) on the strut tower so that an alignment (Camber adjustment) might not be necessary! Then says he was going to be doing an alignment anyway.

[@speakeasyltd07]

Great job and easy to understand. One thing for do it at home-rs....jack up both sides of tbe car...if you dont the strut wont align with the bracket! I learned the hard way and a phone call to my mechanic!! Thanks for your super videos...

[@paulpatenaude9858]

Thank you so much for this great video. You made it simple for me to swap out both CV Axles on my 2010 Subaru Forester. I've paid to have this done on previous Subaru's, but now I have the confidence to to handle this and other advanced repairs. You did a great job with this video. Keep doing this. It's beneficial to a lot of us.

[@sigh950]

Hey I've gotta do this for my 2010 turbo diesel Forester were there any problems that you encountered while doing it that I should know about? Thanks

[@monstertruckTJ]

Thank you very much for this video, informative, to the point, no stupid editing or fanfare. For what it's worth to anyone reading, I borrowed a slide hammer kit as well as a 2-3 claw gear puller kit from the parts store. It took a combination of these in my case. The CV shaft was badly stuck in the spindle/hub and no amount of pounding with the BFH helped. The gear puller made short work of it. I also had a hard time getting it out of the transmission, though that was partially because my shaft had come apart.

[@JB-ss3bv]

I was having a tough time with mine, tried a plastic mallet, rubber mallet, wooden maul then figured I’m not reusing the old axle so I grabbed a 5lb masonry hammer and tappy tap tap she was off. Heat treat must be good because there was no damage.

[@beauregardb6108]

Get a brass bar, maybe 8" long. Set that against the face, and strike it. No damage.

[@TheD112]

Super helpful! Watched the video, then flawlessly replaced the same side axle on my 2006 Forester. The torque specifications are especially appreciated.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Excellent

[@rogerblack7474]

Great Walk through. Replaced front passenger axle on a 2015 Forester. Had to pound the spindle out of the hub with a couple of hard hits with a punch, and it took more force than I thought to pop it out of the differential,/transmission. Saved ~600 bucks. Thanks!

[@swampgoat6343]

Your video was clear and easy to follow specifically because you did it all in one cut. I didn't miss a single aspect of how it is done, and was able to approach the job with great confidence never having done it before. My cv axle is replaced, it took less than an hour, and my wife can get to and from work safely again. Thank you sir.

[@TodaySunrise]

it was very true

[@WallaceGneiss]

You rule! I just did my wife’s 2011 Outback and it was really straight forward. I look like a hero.

[@anthonybelt7415]

Thank you so much for posting this video. Just replaced my left front CV Axle and this video made things extremely manageable. Thanks again!

[@isvifabio]

Very instructive and beneficial video for those who repair their cars at home! Congratulations on the work of recording this great video! Thanks!

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thank you

[@hannahprice781]

I'm gonna have to change mine out on my subaru. I have this video saved. Will save me from bringing back to the mechanic that claimed he fixed the issue the first time.

[@tarwashsomeonestolemyhandle]

Iv'e watched several of these cv replacement vids and I'me confident I can do this myself. Thank you Car Doctor! One thing though- one vid I watched recommended 140 ft/lbs on the spindle nut while you recommend 162 ft/lbs.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Always check the manual for your specific vehicle spec. Good luck!

[@mattp.7318]

14-18 Subaru Forester is: Front axle: 220 n-m / 162.3 ft-lb Rear axle: 190 n-m / 140.13 ft-lb Just make sure you're not looking at the rear torque number!

[@tarwashsomeonestolemyhandle]

@@mattp.7318 Thanks Doc!

[@1492chris]

Good Job, helps me see and understand the inner workings of my Subaru. You are a classic man, thanks.

[@jeremieparker5703]

Timster the Guru God of Automotives... Hey man it's always a pleasure to be apart of your class when you are teaching us kids to do things the right way in a timely fashion.. Thanks Tim you are one bad ass dude...

[@ThecardoctorTV]

haha, thanks but I think most of you students could do it in half the time. I just make it look easy by using the magic of video editing.

[@jeremieparker5703]

The Car Doctor ...Lol..

[@tomtafola4518]

Your videos are fantastic straight to the pint easy to understand you not only save me a lot of money but I fell ore seure when I am driven my car your video as teach me so much I been able to prevent major incidents thank you so much for wat you teach. I aprésate every tip.

[@thomasfry6641]

That method you showed is so much easier than taking the ball joint off. Thanks, you saved me hours....

[@travisgreensr4665]

Thanks for a very detailed and easy to follow video. This video helped give me the confidence to replace mine myself.

[@Learned.Redneck]

Outstanding video. Great camera work, light, and narration. Thanks!

[@joshdredla1723]

I didn't know rick from pawn stars fixed his own cars! Great video thanks for the help!!

[@heybacchus6899]

That's his stunt double

[@redwolf7929]

Thanks mate the way of removing the 2 knuckles at top much quicker than the bottom one I've done previous,

[@arciefan]

Glad to see ya torquing those axle nuts. Had an axle put in my lesabre and few months later, the wheel bearing assembly went out. I changed it out myself, after using a 6ft cheater pipe to break loose that axle nut with someone holding the socket on the nut for me. Nice video!

[@dre3951]

I bet that the axle replacement was difficult and the shop was beating on it with a sledgehammer to get it out, and that is what caused your bearing failure. I've heard similar stories many times (axle replacement leads to bearing failure down the road). I've been working on my own family's cars for almost 40 years and have never had a wheel bearing failure, and don't beat my cars with hammers (unless carefully done and understood).

[@TodaySunrise]

It was very educational with precise explanations to the point. thanks very much

[@kennethodonnell2068]

Doing my 2013 forester now. So far, spot on! Thanks!😁

[@pillarfield0x694]

Worked like a charm, you saved me hundreds! Thanks Doc!

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Great news Steve! Thank you for watching my vids. blessings

HOLY SHIT!!! That's so simple. My experience with replacing CV joints was on a 81 Mazda GLC and I'd hoped I'd never have to replace a CV joint on anything ever again after that nightmare. I replaced all the brake pads on my 2012 Forester and that was more involved then this. I'm getting a clicking noise under power in a left turn. I assumed it was the front but everything is clean and tight. Another video I saw said that noise points to the right rear CV joint. It's pretty wet out now so I'll have to wait for it to dry out a bit and look. Please tell me you did a video for the rear end. The other video I saw wasn't hard to do either put I like to see something this simple.

[@brentwhitley7590]

Awesome tutorial first time and went smoothly thanks to this.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Right on!

[@jamestom2510]

You Little Rippa, by that i mean, Thank You for the how to Vid. Excellent. I have a 2012 Forester thats just started to click every now and then when turning right....

[@heybacchus6899]

Very good video. Well said. Thank you sir. Wish more videos were like this. Did it myself no problem

[@heybacchus6899]

I take that back. Seems like they have me the wrong axle. Too short. Pop and snapped and now it's stuck

[@stevenbley1846]

VERY helpful as I need to do this tomorrow on my Forester. Thanks!

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Good luck!

[@Rustyrailhead]

Just a now know fact is that new CV axles from my Subaru dealer do NOT come with a Shaft spindle nut when buying the axle. So like you say, we got the shaft. Lucky for me the old one worked as the dealer isn't close. The young man doing the job for me was very praised the Subaru for its ease of this job compared to other axles he has done. Maybe made him a believer. LOL

[@g00dhair]

Thanks for this. The place I went to wanted 1300 to do this to both sides.

[@thomastommy1192]

As always a great video my friend. Thanks for sharing your video. It's good to see you back on KZbin. I hope you have a blessed safe week.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

right arm!

[@thomastommy1192]

@@ThecardoctorTV Hey Tim, It's great to hear from you. I hope you and your family are doing well. I have not been receiving all of my KZbin videos for the last year or so. Just 3 or 4 here and there. I don't know what has happened. Being trying to figure it out. Do you have any suggestions as to what has gone wrong? I hope to get it fixed soon. Stay well & safe my friend.

[@SilentWolfFarts]

Thankyou I got both of my Front ones done. Is there a video for the rear?

[@EXOVCDS]

It's nice when they pop out easily (from the diff)!

[@mikeraposa7167]

Thomas EXOVCDS it’s even nicer when the pop back in easily

[@wyattoneable]

"This is my special tool for Subaru's and it works good on Subaru's". That was awesome. I always enjoy your videos Tim. Keep up the great videos which provides plenty of information and sometimes a little humor.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

I have a special tool for every brand....funny thing is the tools all look like a standard sledge hammer..haha. Blessings friend

[@rickiefeatherstone]

I hope it's no bother asking. However I just changed mine, same side, reassembled and took a test drive. Immediately I could tell something was wrong as it didn't accelerate smoothly. Almost as is it was slipping into neutral. At oil temp light and check engine light appeared. No grinding or clanking. Ac Delco part. 2012 forester. Thank you for any input.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Get an OE Subaru shaft. Anything else will likely cause vibrations and/or noise.

[@ratta_tat]

Is there a sweet spot on the inside where the splines have to line up or just line them up and maybe use a Subaru "tool?"

[@JimmyMeatwhistle]

great job on this video, nicely done. I will be able to take care of my 04 Forester now. 🍻

[@ThecardoctorTV]

right on!

[@richardmalinauskas9206]

Great video Good tips I had a bit of trouble getting the old one out as the outer was seized and would not bend well But all back together and rolling Thanks

[@Googs5]

I've never done this but re-watching this video, would it be extremely easy to change the struts/springs at this time as well?

[@jamesfrench4337]

That's what I was thinking. Once you are that far the struts are ready to come off.

[@ManicMechanic007]

Great instructions with plenty of good tips, thanks Tim.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

I appreciate that. Kinda entry level job but perfect for the DIYer who wants to save a few bucks. Take it easy!

[@TyJoyZee]

I just got a call from the Subaru dealer & they told me a front cv shaft is bad & a front lower ball joint also; total about $1000 on my 2016 Forester 2.5; that is NUTS! I should have no problem replacing those parts myself.

[@jasony724]

So no one mentions the other way without messing with the alignment bolts. So if you’re changing out the hub assembly, you then can also change the axel?

[@tomf9568]

Very good video. What kind of work light is that you have on screen at these times: 0:36, 4:23, 4:55 and 11:49? Hoping it isn't Snap?On :)

[@Boise_guy123]

great video. Feel pretty confident in doing this on my buddy's car now, thanks!

[@jerrytalley802]

Great video, it seems it only took 16 minutes or so based on this video, to do that repair. That’s with moderation along the way. I got a quote from a Subaru dealer for the left front axle for $572.00. I know everyone has to make a living, but it seems like highway robbery. The labor for this should be $150 tops based on you video, not $400 labor. I wish I wasn’t so physically beat up, I’d fix it myself. Thanks for the educational video, at least I know what’s involved and know what should be a fair price, thanks

[@kpdvw]

Very good Instruction, but when re assembling Strut bolts clean them and treat with anti seize first!

[@LaramieJim]

The Subrau tool looks like the Ford tool! Nice video

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Very similar for sure. This one is metric (4.53 kg) the Ford is a 10 lb unit...haha

[@LaramieJim]

Check out may03lt last couple of videos, you will get a kick out of them

[@H00sierD4ddy]

Thank you for this video, made my life easier by a long shot.

[@VonReuger]

Cheers bud, very helpful and good instruction. Worth the watch.

[@tomwalma4762]

Aftermarket CV axles usually vibrate. OEM only if you plan to keep vehicle longer. Or just replace a joint and the boot.

[@garrymccormick]

I know this is from 3 years ago but wanted to reply anyways for any future DIY. Due to the harmonics of the Boxer engine (horizontal opposed cylinders) a worn of failed rear transmission mount will also potentially cause a vibration to appear if using a new, not rebuilt cv axle shaft. New axles have exceptionally tight clearances of the joint. A rebuilt, has been reground and has slightly looser tolerances. A rebuilt unit is just as good if done by a quality rebuilder. Check the rear mount and replace if spongy, cracked or worn. A worn mount can cause the engine to sit slightly off center.

[@deanthakid9803]

I have 2019 wrx I need to replace my driver side as I punctured it when putting on coilovers, I think process might he same 🤔🤷🏾‍♂️

[@kohort1]

I'm at only 68000mi. I here clicking on left front wheel when I turn all the way left and circle. But there is no oil leakage, torn boot or anything? Is the noise itself indicative of damage? Is there any way in my situation to clean/replace/rebuild the joint? Or just might as well replace whole axle assembly replaced in this case also?

[@RowanHawkins]

As he mentioned, you would have to take the part out to rebuild it. At 150ish per side, for the new part vs a few hours labor to try and rebuild the existing and may need to replace it anyway why would you bother to try and save a marginal component? As I've gotten older I've realized that the truly important thing is time, you can't get time back once its gone, its gone.

[@spelunkerd]

That's wise advice to not use antiseize on lug nuts. I did that for a while, until I found one that had spun itself off. A little corrosion is not a bad thing.

[@robert5]

Friction is the key, reducing friction is bad anti seize does that. Corrosion is not good. Clean it off with a wire brush.

[@bolwell]

Great vid, but shouldn't you replace the final drive housing seal while you've got it all apart?

[@PhillipBlanton]

If you want to you can, but if it's not leaking then there's no NEED to replace it.

[@robertpage2023]

I would have wire brushed that strut alignment bolt as I would every bolt I take out of a car and then put anti-seize on it. You know, after working on Helicopters, EVERY bolt has a stainless steel wire "keeper" threaded thru the holes in the bolt and nut to keep them from vibrating apart. I realized that cars don't fly but it would be a nice touch to insure that no bolts would every fall out. I was driving on day in my 1973 Montecarlo when my torque converter pully fell out of the car. It had never been removed before so I assume that years of vibration had caused it.

[@mynameistooey]

hello i am a new subscriber you have great video content my wife and i are thinking of buying a used subaru would like to see more subaru videos in the future keep up the great work

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thank you

[@lorrinbarth1969]

On Subarus Its very common for the front inner boots to leak from the factory. For DIY, replacing the boot is an easy job.

[@hannahprice781]

So mine takes a 1 1/2 socket as well but when i turn my air impact on to loosen it it just clacks like its slipping but the next size down is too small and i cant go a size up...well because its too big.....

[@meeboy2386]

It helped a lot! Thank you 🙏🏼

[@Randomperson-vi7qh]

Is this pretty much the same for a 2018 ouback2.5 ? Love the video. Hopefully this will save me some money doing it myself it looks pretty simple. I have a massive popping noise that started last may, and has progressed substantially to every single turn I make in any direction it’s making noise , brought it to someone that went to school for auto and they said almost certainly it’s CV axle , although the boots are fine. No leaks no tears . Sounds like left side but I got both axles. Jacked the car up all the way around and tried to move the wheels at 6n12 so I don’t think it’s wheel bearings there’s no movement there .

[@legendofthestrings1]

Hey The Car Doctor thanks for your video. It was very informative and helped me today get the job done. Thanks dude. :)

[@ThecardoctorTV]

thank you

[@brandonspringer3232]

I just replaced both of the front axles on my 05 Forester XS with Cardone axles (due to them having good reviews as far as aftermarket goes). I used the ball joint entry so I could replace those as well. But now there is clicking at lower speeds and wobble when the engine is under load. Can someone point me in the right direction?

[@edb.3313]

Great job Tim as always and have yourself a good day!!

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thank you Ed, its going good so far. Need a few more of these gravy jobs for sure! Take care

[@Googs5]

Looking to do this on a 2015 Forester, this video makes me feel much better about giving this a shot. Now I just need to decide which CV axle brand I want to go with. I feel Subaru charges way too much for OEM.

[@byronsmith8670]

Just find the Subaru OEM part number and search it on rock auto, you'll find the OEM part, but without the Subaru label so it will be much cheaper

[@chupalia]

I like the db cooper sticker on your torque wrench

[@MrSkysommer]

You rock dude, thanks for the video.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thank you so much

[@timberwolfdtproductions3890]

Very thorough. Thanks.

[@garysgarage3669]

Nice job Tim. Im currently rebuilding a transmission on 07 impala and I could not get those axle shafts out. I have always used a pry bar but this car has a sub frame directly under where my pry bar needs to go. I ordered a "axle pooper" basically a wider pickle fork and it didn't work either, Too long. I used a bearing separator on the right side but that wouldn't fit on the left side. I order a tool that goes on the end of a side hammer. Worked great!! Had to real smack it hard though. Mine is a OEM 27058 from Amazon, although there was a lot of other brands. Might be the only time I need it but glade I have it.

[@davecam4863]

Looks like a great time to do your rotors and pads too.

[@Rustyrailhead]

I have 115K on my car and when we took the axle out looking at the rotor and pads, everything look near new.

[@boydbennett6531]

Hello Doctor!!!! I am a Shade Tree Mechanic by Heart and this 2005 Subaru Forester AWD is my first experience with all will drive and CV Axles. Your video is a Star on presentation on how do change the CV Axle. One question though, I do not remember You showing lithium grease being applied to both ends of the axle. Should that be done on both ends?

[@BigDog50001]

Searching Amazon now for “Special Subaru Tool”.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Its right after the Ford tool section...hehee

[@kfirlavi7674]

​@@ThecardoctorTV You got me with that Subaru tool ;-) Thanks for a great video.

[@ClassicNathan]

My CV axle would NOT go in! I figured it out, so I thought I would post this here to help someone else out down the road. 2012 Subaru Outback 2.5…The retainer ring had to be put in the differential (not onto the CV axle), then the CV could be installed. The depth of the retainer ring channel and the height of the CV spline was such that even when the retainer ring was fully compressed it was as tall as the CV spline. So the matching spline housing in the differential was not going to be able to pass by the ring. Everything on the internets said “just jerk it in, it’s tough but you gotta yank it, etc.” I was beat on it with a 8 pound sledge, I dremeled the retainer ring smaller, I ordered a factory retainer ring, I greased it, I squeezed it, I bent it, all over the course of 4 different nights working on it…nothing worked. I put the ring in the differential (which was nerve racking cuz I didn’t want it going into the diff), but then it jerked in appropriately on my third tug. Also, the wheel bearing had been difficult to get out too. I popped the lug nut studs out. Got a 1/2inch by 5 inch full thread hardened bolt (O’reilly’s). Put the bolt through the stud hole with a nut on it. I had to remove the parking brake hardware so the bolt could rest/push against the parking brake dust cover (which had cast iron behind it). You have to leave the CV in with the nut on it, because otherwise the wheel bearing will separate. Use 3 or four bolts/nuts with an impact driver and some penetrating oil. The nut pushes the bearing out while the long bolt is pressing against the bearing housing. You’ll leave a mark on the dust cover, but so what.

[@sethsybrandy3218]

Thanks for this, super helpful!

[@CopsnConsBoxing]

I appreciate the help it worked out great.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Awesome. Thanks.

[@gbsk12]

I have a '96 Subaru, which should be quite like this one. However, I have to take off some of the exhaust because they are under the inside of the CV joint. Why wasn't that an issue with this car or did he skip taking off the exhaust?

[@MrDvirpariente]

Hi, I'm about to replace a front Axle on a subaru forester 2014, did you had to replace the differential oil after this? Did you lose any differential oil during this service?

[@mefistofer]

This mister surely knows how to turn a wrench and no mistake

[@robrob5665]

Thank you for the video, it's defo helped! But,,, but now there's still a rubbing noise coming from the wheel.. I've put more grease on the slide pins, I've pushed the shroud away from the brake rotor but it's still squeaking/rubbing/making noise, any ideas??

[@1chrisandrew1]

Have you torqued the main stub axle nut too tight?

[@robrob5665]

@@1chrisandrew1 thx for the reply... Turns out my wheel bearing was bad, which I further destroyed by over tightening 😋... I'm defo a bit wiser now so thx for that! 😀

[@RowanHawkins]

​@@robrob5665torque specifications are very important to prevent that exact thing.

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

You refer to your "Subaru Tool" hammer. I as a DIYer still have a little confusion as to what hammer to use when. There are so many types of hammer however I feel there are only a few must have hammers. It would be nice to have a top 5 hammers video from someone practical like yourself.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

The key attribute for this use of a hammer was that it was plastic and wouldn't harm the threads of the shaft while using it to seat the shaft. Even a rubber mallet would work probably but im one who believes bigger is always better...haha. Hope that helps explain it better. Blessings!

[@bobkinsley7943]

Thank you; very informative

[@zx8401ztv]

Smashing repair Tim :-D, back to new again. I bet the adjustment wasn't too far off, close enough not to make much difference :-D. I wonder if the quality of the boots is worse than it used to be, some people have no end of trouble with them splitting.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Yes, here in cold weather they sem to crack boots more often. Probably the same for hot areas I guess. I wish I lived somewhere that it just rained all the time...

[@zx8401ztv]

Piss and wind in the uk, that's just the people LOL :-D

[@886014]

Nice works and a very nice video. Thanks for posting

[@darrenskinner5928]

Great job as always enjoy your channel a bunch

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thank you!

[@3obardThawn3]

Thank you great video, very helpful

[@PhillipBlanton]

If you leave the nut loosened out flush with the shaft end, then banging on it with a hammer won't booger your threads. You should always bang on a threaded rod (shaft, bolt, etc..) with a flush nut to prevent thread boogerage.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thanks for the tip!

[@draw5studios]

Thanks mate, extremely helpful video

[@Stiffwood1673]

Excellent video. Thank you!

[@ashleylidia3341]

Thanks for the video. My husband replaced our front CV axles on a 2013 Subaru Forester using this method and now there is a clicking noise when it shifts from park to drive or reverse. What do you think he did wrong?

[@coltc5360]

He replaced OEM axles with axels that aren’t as good. Subarus come with good axles, if they are making noise you probably have a broken axle boot that needs to be replaced, not the whole thing.

[@mostlymoparih5682]

Gotta do that on my son's 89 Camry. It has low mileage as it was owned by the Lil ole Lady from Pasadena. Taking that ball joint loose can be a real pain in the axle. So if the boot goes you'd rather give em the shaft.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

pain in the axle. im going to have to use that one in the future. ha

[@realizt420]

Anchorage Alaska lots of snow this year I haven't seen this much snow in years what's going on

[@ThecardoctorTV]

I have no idea. It started off slow but seems to be finishing strong for sure. I had to shovel this morning again...haha, maybe it will be a hot summer!!!

[@tomwalma4762]

I would use only OEM CV axle. Aftermarket/Chinese tend to shake at some speeds; especially on Subarus and VWs.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

I have seen that once before I think but haven't run into it with this supplier. Ive had a lot worse time with reman shafts and when the replacement was an attempt to address a vibration and it remained even after the repairs it was unfortunate that the replacement part had the same problem. Anyway that's why I say take it for a test drive after to make sure everything is good to go. Havent priced an OE shaft but im pretty sure its going to add $400+ to the bill. Anyway thanks for the feedback, that's helpful info for the diy crowd.

[@gulzeb]

$65 vs $330 per axle, I think I’ll stick to aftermarket

[@craigrichards5472]

Nice work, easy to follow.

[@love42productions17]

The strut is lower after installation and the bolts wont line up. Any ideas?

[@ThecardoctorTV]

You’ll need to pry the suspension down to line up the bolt holes.

[@RowanHawkins]

If the other front wheel is on the ground, lift that side as well to unload the swaybar linkage.

[@slimesterg]

Thank you Thank you Thank you!!! This video helped me so much!!

[@robertelbert7588]

TIM I JUST DID THE SAME THING TO MY 07 OUTBACK HOW EVER THE AXELROD KEEPS MOVING OUT OF THE TRANSFER CASE WHAT WOULD CAUSE THIS TO KEEP HAPPENING? THEY ARE THE EXACT SAME SIZE AS THE ORIGINAL ONE PLEASE HELP. THANKS TIM.

[@eisiebuddaie3551]

where is your retaining pin?

[@RowanHawkins]

The inner axle stud is not fully seated in the diff. The C-clip needs to be lubed with lithium to get it to lock in place.