Princess Seams // How to Switch to Style Lines

[@melodysimonson1510]

I have been sewing for 50 years and I never realized you could do so many different princess seams. When you explain how to do them, and make it so easy to underdstand, I just love it. I am going through a dress stage, because I have fibromalgia and it hurts to have alot of fabric rubbing on my skin. I have got so many tips and tricks from you. Thank you so much.

[@kaytiej8311]

I agree, as a fellow Fibro sufferer. Bianca, you make the process actually seem possible. I'm a shape that princess seams are much more flattering for than waistline and darts. I'm so pleased to have learned enough from you to change things as necessary. And getting more confident all the time!

[@hanananah]

"Armscye Princess is like the metal version, but um" Please never change. You're delightful. And informative!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I wish I played any kind of instrument so I could audition.

[@scoobybag1072]

that free hand curv was impressive why is nobody saying anything dude bravo

[@qperrx]

i’m a male student learning to design women’s clothes. i won’t ever wear the clothes i’m producing so you have no idea how inconsequentially valuable your insight into how your alter patterns for comfort is. even talking about how different bras affect the the fit is something i haven’t even considered. your channel is a goldmine. anyway we too are learning pattern drafting using Helen Joseph Armstrong’s book. cheers!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@RychaardRyder]

IT HAS ARRIVED, THE MYTHICAL PRINCESS SEAM!

[@susanconner6586]

I've been sewing for 50 years. Yet I always learn something from you! Thanks for explaining the magic.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Susan!

[@viktoriavintage556]

First time I sewed a princess seam I was so confused. Went to KZbin for help, and it was no help at all since the videos i found did not have a curve like mine. Happy to finally see someone with the same problem as I sew a princess seam! I have like 34 DD/E and I really hate sewing that seam, but I also feel like that's the only thing that fits my body.

[@caoimhenimhuireadhaigh1303]

My brain just gets how you teach, thank you for taking the time to make these types of videos!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! ❤️

[@annettebroomhall8617]

The amount of work you do to show exactly how to achieve the perfect fit is phenomenal. Very much appreciated. Thank you.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Annette!

[@cypriennezed5640]

Giving the people what they NEED 💜💕

[@hrani]

I've been procrastinating doing a completely new basic block for myself after becoming More Voluminous (hitting 30+ sure is something, everything fits different) but watching these patterning videos is slowly motivating me, increment by increment, to actually do it some day!

[@doblemaltita]

I understand the reticence to face a bigger body (uh, myself) but you deserve to have fitted, flattering clothes that make you happy! Consider this another slow motivation :D

[@JessicaReinke]

Exactly what I needed to get me through this day, an amazingly informative and entertaining video

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@lindagoesel3815]

My deepest and most heartfelt sympathy to you and your parents. I cried as if I had lost a pet. They get so deep in our hearts. You are amazing to be able to do this. I admire your strength . Prayers to you all and I know all our little furry family members are having fun frolicking together happy healthy and no longer in pain. As for your videos love them and always helpful. Thank you .

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Linda ❤️

[@elayjayudny9741]

So strange that you covered this today, Bianca, when I had just received in the post a Princess style raglan sleeved dress pattern I had ordered (McCalls M7349 in case anyone is interested). I will no doubt have to lower the bust apex and do a full bust adjustment - the Princess seam goes into the raglan sleeve seams front and back. I shall no doubt watch this through two or three times until I have assimilated it - I’m not getting any younger! Thank you for explaining it so well, from Lynette in Scotland.

[@VeretenoVids]

"secret darts" 😃 The more I do this, the more I think that maybe, just maybe, I can learn this type of magic too. Thank you for all the clear instructions (and delightful humor)!

[@criticalmaz1609]

Oh the great Queen of Darts, I'd just like to thank you for revolutionizing my life! I went out yesterday and bought the Butterick B5627 fitting shell pattern after watching your video about slopers. Now I shall design all of the things.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Do ittt! All the things!! ❤️

[@marykirmo]

Thank you so much for explaining this so thoroughly! Your video is very easy to follow and it moves along at a pace that works for me, which I appreciate!! I also like that you have chosen to show all the steps sped up the perfect amount.

[@JWe472]

As a very curvy person myself, I find your tutorials extremely helpful! Thank you for giving me the information I need to fit on a curvy body

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jennifer!

[@mimimaitri1]

I did the 1 seam inside out once and it’s actually really helpful! You can see how it will look from the right side on one half of your body, but also adjust the fit with pins or chalk on the inside out seam.

[@raraavis7782]

Lol. I just commented exactly the same!

[@jayneterry8701]

I thought of it as kind of a cool ruffle on you Bianca.

[@lizb7271]

"Armscye Princess is the metal version" Would Armscye Princess wear that stunning red and grey eyeshadow look?

[@Neonatnoon]

This is perfect! I just bought patternmaking for fashion design and love to have your videos for reference on top of it. Thank you!

[@kathyjohnson2043]

When I was younger, princess seamed dresses without a waist band, belt, or seam always looked better on me than other dresses. I am sure the lack of a waist seam made a difference on me, but your comment about the space under the bust being potentially different than conventional darts was a moment of sudden revelation.

[@geministargazer9830]

You might benefit from curved darts? Gets a little more shaping than the usual straight ones. Lots of busty ladies use them to take out some the angularness that you get with a large dart

[@peggyriordan9857]

Each time I have to sew a princess seam, I always look up one of your videos to refresh myself! Now I have all of these in one video, YAY! Thank you so much. You are a great teacher.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Peggy!

[@TruFlyFox]

Love your videos! I have a hard time staying awake sometimes because your voice is perfect for me to sleep to (I use it to fall asleep sometimes 😳) but I look forward to each and every one you post. Sewing videos are my zen.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@kirstencoats4262]

Great lesson! I just finished reworking an underlayer piece for a Star Wars cosplay where I adjusted a waist dart into the shoulder. The finished product was okay enough, but my first thought was, "I should have turned this crazy-long shoulder dart into a much cleaner princess seam. I'd love to see a video about that!" Fantastic timing. Thank you! 🦋

[@gowriwarrier2370]

Thank you for another helpful demonstration video! I never thought of moving a princess seam into the neckline, but I actually found that to be the most beautiful! Can't wait to see that in a dress, especially with the tulip sleeves! On another note, I'm so sorry to hear about your dear Gunny. Pet loss is an extremely difficult time to get through, and I send you and your family all my love. Please go easy on yourself; don't feel like you have to post a video or anything. We're here for you!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you ❤️

[@laurahi3468]

LOVE IT!! Your basic videos are really just the best for understanding what is really going on in the patterns, thank you so much! I am already looking forward to the tulip sleeves ❤️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Laura!

[@MsCynthiaPearl]

I must have watched every single one of your videos, and you have helped me create some lovely curved princess seams on my latest dress! I was throwing that dart fullness all over thanks to your teaching lol. This process talked through step by step is so so helpful, thank you 💜💜

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!! I'm glad to hear it!

[@bluestar.8938]

Yes, indeed. Thank you, very useful... Looking forward to the tulip sleeves. Thank you Bee : )

[@PolyvoreThea]

The fan brooch!!!!!! And I have never understood this stuff until now. Thank you!!!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you for noticing the brooch 😂❤️ It's such a fun one!

[@apollonianeumer3094]

Thank you so much! I've been looking forward to this!

[@Siansonea]

The neckline princess seam construction would be cool with a small keyhole void, especially if the void had a fun pentagon shape or some spiky bits in it.

[@wyntersynergyundignified]

I’m constantly amazed and grateful about how much information you share and how much I’ve learned from your videos. Thank you!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@BigRedMomma1959]

I have watched all of your video's over and over and each time I get something that I missed before SO informative and I am now working on my own Block Patterns

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Sherry!

[@patriciaingraldi4719]

I absolutely love your humor and your technical prowess. Thank you. Well done and said!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@janevacani6789]

I can't wait to see your dress with the princess seam to the neck! and the tulip sleeve too xo

[@bethliebman8169]

You are such a good explainer! I love the shape and fit of the princess into the neckline version. I look forward to seeing the project you make with this variation. 'Full Madonna'--Ha. Really enjoyed the video.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Beth!

[@mnels5214]

This was fabulous!!!! Doing it repetitively was very helpful, some people might have cut away at certain points saying, "ok so that's pretty much the same as before..." but this just reinforced the ideas so it felt a lot more intuitive. Thanks!

[@sherrysenf-mcginn7693]

This was very informative. Since I am very curvy I tend to favor princess seams. However, I was unaware of all the different types of princess seams and the differences they make. So cool to learn new things. Thank you. 🖤🖤🖤💚💚💚🖤🖤🖤

[@x1435]

These types of videos really help me understand the geometry of sewing. Thank you! And I'm excited to see the tulip sleeve demo. They are very cute.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@cathyandersen2984]

I can't wait for more videos

[@tinajohnston8139]

I'm very excited about the tulip sleeve demo!

[@paloma_hill]

omg I love that you included lowering an apex! you are awesome!

[@hallowhyena]

i'm very glad your channel exists! you are so skilled at sewing and your knowledge has helped so many!

[@sonyaroark781]

I’m a newbie and just learning. In this video, I liked that you showed that even you can mess up sometimes. You didn’t edit it out you just owned it. That helps me feel less frustrated as I’m learning. Love your videos and your style. Thanks.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Sonya!

[@charlotteroberts]

I'm a new viewer but just adore your narration and tutorial style. Super inspired and feeling much more able to tackle these kinds of projects. Wishing you a wonderful day. Thank you for sharing.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Charlotte!

[@momtomtse]

I don't have much time to sew, (because, life) and I'm still mightily struggling to get my basic bodice block fit but you are always so motivating... I just love your videos, thanks for all the time and energy you put into them 😁

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@sewathome]

I have a dress with a print as the centre of the princess and black on the sides, can confirm it makes my 5inch bust to waist difference look like a 10 inch difference. Very keen to make one someday when the right fabrics manifest before me 😁

[@sewcute_sewvintage]

LOVE the red!!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@believeinfaeries8713]

Great job! I have a project on my To Do list that has princess seams and this is very helpful. Can’t wait to see what the tulip sleeves are for.

[@christinafreeman4641]

Mind blown right now. I can't believe I never knew that. Your videos make me want to see again. Thank you. Also I love your hair it's beautiful

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Christina!

[@derrith1877]

Thank you for demystifying the fit of princess seams!

[@Goforfink]

30:00 THOSE SLEEVES!! Gorgeous. So simple but to sweet. LOVE your work. I have had "the book" for a few years now, but honestly seeing you do these things in video form is so much more instructive.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Louise!

[@cynthialavison8058]

I love your videos as always! They make me want to sew. Regarding the princess seams for a rounder bra shape, I used to be very into those. The way I would draft for this is that I would go from my darted bodice with the shortened darts (i.e. Not going back to my basic block with the darts going through the bust point, but the darts shortened to the length they would have if I was going to make a darted bodice for a dress) . I did that with a waist dart and an armhole dart because it's my preference but I assume this could work with a shortened shoulder dart too. instead of going through the bust point I would cut a straight line from the point of both darts. So instead if one sharper angle at the bust point you get two less sharp angles above and below your apex. This helps retain the extra space around the apex you get when doing a darted bodice. Then I would curve the seam under the bust and smooth the line as you showed here. But its much easier to get to a rounded bust this way. Not interesting for you per se, but un case there are people who like to wear vintage shapes with modern bras!

[@09painthorse]

Thank you for assuring that we can leave the pins in around the apex. I tried sewing my first princess seam last night and was frustrated with my top fabric bunching up as I took the pins out at the apex! I will take out the thread and do it over tonight now that I know it’s ok to leave them in. Again thank you!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Not all sewing machines will "allow" leaving the pins in, but mine is totally fine with them! If your machine ends up not liking pins, you can try basting the area by hand first and then machine stitching as well!

[@kittymarch8455]

Thanks for this. I learned the dart to princess and apex futzing from Jenny of Cashmerette, but taking the dart into the collar is new to me. I make lots of shells to wear under cardigans, so I could do a really fun flash of color thing. Like a lining, but on the garment worn on the body, because my hand knit sweaters don’t have linings. Thanks again!

[@asilverfoxintasmania9940]

As always a super informative and helpful video. The style line up into the neckline is super interesting and I am looking forward to seeing what you create down the track!

[@suzanmarie5374]

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!

[@comosatan1538]

I can binge your channel like no other. You make sewing make so much more sense, and I just LOVE your style. Diggit.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@dianavoermans]

Thanks for the inspiration! 🤩 that diamond shape is really something 😍

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Diana!

[@jessicaneal8553]

This is so pretty and helpful! I need to look see if you have a tutorial around raglan sleeves 😊

[@mariegarside8830]

Excellent information served with your usual wit and charm

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Marie!

[@SparkleToes04]

Okay you have changed my life with this video and the dart video. I honestly do not think I ever need to buy a pattern again, and already my dart and princess seam block mockups fit me better than even the best items I have sewed so far. Thank YOU!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Hooray! I am so glad to hear that!

[@sophiacarpenter6338]

I made my first bodice block last week! I think I need to loosen it a bit for comfort, but I’m so excited about the fit! Your videos are a huge inspiration ❤️❤️❤️ I’ll be excited to try out changing my block to princess seams once I have a solid base to work off of

[@coalsparks]

I’m not really supposed to be watching KZbin (I’m in a pointless meeting) and I just laughed out loud at “armscythe princess is the metal version”.

[@coalsparks]

Incidentally, I love that you start with the bodice block each time. I learned how to do a bodice in a costuming class but not how to go from that to, you know, costumes! So you’ve filled in the rather large hole in my knowledge.

[@dianneunderwood8456]

Very helpful and well presented tutorial. Am drafting my first princess seam jacket. The dart lines will be from waist to apex to mid-shoulder and was thinking 1" of taper width for the waist dart and 2" of taper from shoulder. (my single dart bodice has 3" width of waist dart). After watching your video, I think I will also get some inexpensive fabric to practise the seam first. While I have a more standard size body to fit, my pattern will likely be different to a commercial pattern and undoubtedly there will be some refining and tweaking to get the fit looking more professional. Thank you for sharing this!

[@therewillbecatswithgwenhwyfar]

You’re such a GREAT teacher! 🥰

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! ❤️

[@ReisigSeeds]

I learn more from your videos than any other sewing channel. Thank you. Can you do a bra pattern next?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Heather! I'm afraid I find the idea of sewing lingerie very intimidating, so I probably won't be trying it any time soon 😅

[@tiamatmichellehart6821]

Thank you for making this video; it's going to be quite useful when I aspire to make my own *bunny costume corset!* (I'm already salvaging steel bones from my worn-out pipe-stem waist one lol)

[@kellydoodlez1]

I just discovered your channel and from one too heavy girl to another, THANK YOU!!! 🥰🥰🥰

[@QueenOfTheNorth65]

Your dress is SO beautiful! I love that color and texture. ❤️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! It is a brocade from Mood of course 😅❤️

[@user-rb6rl9it2v]

Thank you for all you do to help us learn more

[@NadoCrowFriend]

I love all kinds of darts ~ And found your point about the versatility of “traditional darts” very helpful ~ I’d not realized that they seem to work better with various bra shapes, than do princess seams. Great video, as always!

[@dianavestal850]

I just love you! I also love the shirt you're wearing in this video. :) Have watched like 7 of your videos just today, can't get enough! Thank you so much for making these videos.

[@Ms-RAZ]

Ah! Once again. Exactly the video I needed to see. Thank you!!!

[@user-wt9my2xr5f]

Love the way you explained each and every thing in detail... Love you so much you are my favorite..!!!!

[@michellecornum5856]

I LOVE your pattern classes!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Michelle!

[@jewelnelson5597]

You explain, so well thanks again.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jewel!

[@lesleyharris525]

Thank you, I'm like you and have a bigger difference between bust and ribcage,and making tops was intimidating me,💖

[@lauraseale8520]

I watched the dart video earlier and liked a comment about thinking this was magic but you explained it so well. However still think you explain this brilliantly but I also think you're definitely a witch, you're amazing! Thank you.

[@Ophiotterkin]

I so want those tulip sleeves!

[@ReinaElizondo]

Yay! I've been so excited for this one! Thanks for going over so many versions! Your explanations and examples are always so helpful!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Reina!

[@hwhipple]

I love the way you show the pattern making and then the muslin so we can see exactly how it looks. I am really enjoying your videos and learning so much!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@michelletheus7334]

i love your videos they are detailed and explain very well can't wait to watch your next patternmaking addition

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Michelle!

[@Fuiotter]

I am learning so much (not using any of it yet, but hopefully soon!)

[@deana7310]

Want to thank you for this whole series! I just modified a modern pattern to use this princess seem rather than three darts, which I was hating. Now to get the sleeves to fit better. And your video on sleeves is already being very useful.

[@coffemuse]

Ah, Bianca the Great Demystifyer. This is fabulous as always, thank you.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@nimuenorth6295]

A while back I altered a darted bodice to princess seams to address multiple fit issues. I based that on your dart manipulation video and it was pretty successful but I can already tell that I would have gotten even better results with all the wonderful little tips in this video so I’lll definitely come back for my next attempt.

[@destinationbath4027]

Thank you for covering the neck princess line. I have had plans to try and figure that one out into a slight turtle neck and this will be so helpful. Amazing as always.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@mrswintersparrow]

I haven't stood perky for years 😂 love your channel and I'm learning so much.

[@sarahlongshore2605]

So much fun to watch these! They really are helpful. Thank you. Your videos always make my day!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Sarah!

[@nanettebromley8843]

Thank you for making this video. It has helped me understand the process of darts and other style lines. Need to create my own bodice blocks now so i can create new things for myself. Pattern companies/creators never go big enough especially with the fun stuff.

[@VelvetCrone]

wow, thanks! I'm 64 and always need to lower my apex. this is so helpful!

[@ZitaAnneReno]

I’ve been working on drafting bodice patterns and this came at just the right time! Thanks for another great and informative video!

[@fawntheresa5338]

I am so excited to see those tulip sleeves come together. I love love love your makeup up colors in this one 😍

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@MabruBlack]

Wow I didn’t know that trick of lowering the apex! It will come in handy since it adapts better to modern shapes… and I also liked the neckline variation! I want to try it on a dress, it looks really flattering! So many new things to learn from this video, thank you so much!!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Lu!

[@killamoosdraree730]

I've been hoping you would do a video solely on princess style lines! Thank you so much!!

[@elitabaldridge6967]

Thanks so much for this video, drafting style lines finally makes sense! I was able to draft a high waisted skirt with interesting scalloped pocket detail thing by removing my front dart and setting the pocket in there and a princess seamed low back bateau neck bodice to go with. It actually worked, fits, and looks good and I didn't mess everything up putting it together, and I couldn't be more thrilled!

[@nboth]

Your video's are very inspiring! I would love to know how you decide from your muslin what to adjust in your pattern and where to adjust it. It would be lovely to have a video on that!

[@jaydeolal3382]

This video was super helpful. Thank you.