RESIN PRINTING VS FILAMENT PRINTING | WHICH IS BETTER?

[@pat7937]

You just talked me out of this completely. 😂

[@capcadoi]

haha me too

[@bbeenn]

Same!

[@kylerb3799]

Same

[@worldtraveller3819]

Why????

[@polypetalous]

Yeah indeed... printing on FDM for many years had me wondering ir I should give resin a go... looks like I can wait on it a bit more.

[@BabyJesus66]

Resin printing is not nearly as bad as he makes it out to be. Plus you can get a wash and cure station that makes cleaning way easy. I literally put a part directly from the build plate into the wash and cure, and wash it for 1.5mins, then take it out dry it, cure it for 3 minutes and it's done. It takes maybe 6 minutes to do the entire process from when I open the 3d printer lid to having my part done. You don't need to sand parts unless you put tons of supports or need something perfect. 99% of the time I don't sand anything and it's fine. Any spot that doesn't have supports generally looks perfect straight out of the printer. As long as you put the supports on the back of your prints you'll never need to sand. It's not that messy either, wear gloves and put a mat down on your work area that you can wipe off resin if it drips and you're fine. This video will turn people off from resin printing when it's not hard to do at all once you get a rhythm.

[@carlfogarthy6508]

I came to some conclusions after some days in searching the web and YT (included this good video). This is just what I think. Hope this can help. FDM have 2 major safety concerns: 1) hot temperature of the nozzle (which is very easy to manage) 2) VOC (which you can get rid off if you use an enclosure + expulsion vacuum fan). With PLA all risks are tremendously lowered, with ABS you have to work only in a very well ventilated space with a good enclosure and hepa + carbon filters. Resin printers (SLA/DLP/etc) use chemicals. UV resin are made of nano particles, part of them are volatiles (HEPA + cabon filters cannot block them), part VOC (i.e. micro particles which probably can be blocked by HEPA and carbon filters). Uncured resin is toxic for environment and for humans (especially lung, eyes, skin) Exhausted IPA (which is itself an aggressive chemical) has to be handled with extreme care and attention for the environment (which I really think few people do). Some say that cured resin is safe, I'm not 100% sure of it. In fact if you look at operational instructions by producers of printers and some smart tutorial you will find that it's suggested to not cure for too long printed objects in a way they cannot became too brittle.... Some others say that after a certain time resin 3d printed object meld... Which could mean that if you don't cure completely the objects, then inside a portion of resin is still liquid (and extremely toxic). When you touch the object for finishing it could be hazardous, still some nano particles can flow through the air. For what I found there's not many scientific studies about safety with 3d printers but the most important researches are and will be on resin. One university (maybe in California, I don't remember) got 100% toxicity of uncured resin for water creatures (100% of fish embryos died). But the worst aspect is 87% of toxicity for cured resin objects! (they put some cured objects in a vat with water and fish embryos and the most of them died in a couple of days....) That said, I'm really really sorry for this situation. Resin printers are wayyyyyy better than FDM in terms of render, accuracy, smoothness... I had for few days a small DLP resin printer and also this technology bring me to results impossible to get with FDM. I gave back the printer an all the stuff because a couple o years ago I had a blood cancer and my doctor recommends to avoid chemicals. I still use a budget FDM printer just for hobby, only with PLA + enclosure + vacuum + filters. In a beautiful world resin and FDM should work together. FDM is very good for big objects, for simple objects, for some mechanical objects and for making mold for composites. FDM are relatively slow and very cheap to use. Resin renders fantastically, every print is relatively much expensive than FDM. It's generally way faster than FDM (especially DLP). Sorry for the big size of this message, I spent a lot of time for getting some realiable info (reliable = scientifically trustable and not sponsored...) Hope it helps, hope technology will offer us very soon a true eco-resin

[@NerdSnipingBatman]

​@@carlfogarthy6508as far as safety of cured parts: I don't think as long as you're using a reputable brand that it is much of a concern. Yeah don't make drinking cups out of it, but it's relatively inert once the photoinitiators have done their job. You have to remember: many personalized medical plastics are made with resin 3d printing. Dental resin for things like Invisalign, retainers, dentures, etc. and those go in your mouth. Medical plastics are of course regulated by the FDA so I would assume a decent amount of safety. Obviously hobby resins aren't the same thing, but the photoinitiators are very similar. Yes the uncured resin is likely very toxic. But I wouldn't panic much about cured parts.

[@justintime5021]

I enjoy painting busts and miniatures so resin was an easy choice. I have seen some pretty incredible quality from FDM printers but they are at best slightly worse than the worst resin printer and the amount of black magic you have to do to get those kinds of results is intense. With a resin printer you pretty much level your build plate one time and then you don't have to do it again unless you replace your fep or drop the plate on the ground. The mess is real with resin though. You need to have your work space dialed in quite well and there are a lot of random things that you didn't think you needed that you end up having to buy. My mars 2 pro was about $250 but I ended up spending close to $650 with all of the other random shit I had to buy.... funnels, trays, washing station, IPA, microfiber cloths, squeegees, strainers for the resin, gloves, photochemical bottles to store mixes of resin, spray bottles... etc. Its a lot of stuff! And some of these things are recurring costs as mentioned in the video. Gloves, Resin and IPA specifically are the three big ones. Resin has some pretty unfortunate mechanical properties too. Its much more brittle than PLA although I found some sunlu nilon-like resin that is incredible... but still nowhere near the flexibility and durability of PLA... making mechanical parts out of resin is much more difficult simply because of those material properties. So I would say if you're interested in making mechanisms or parts that are going to have to take a lot of punishment and you don't need crazy detail then you should go with a filament printer. If you are making art pieces then resin is a no brainer. Edit: one thing I didn't mention is the size constraints. Even the smallest fdm printers have larger build volume than the majority of resin printers. This has actually been a big deal for me over the years. I upgraded my mars 2 pro to a Saturn S just to get that bigger build space. Fdm has resin beat in this regard by a long shot. There were many times when looking at cool stuff to print with my mars 2 pro that I ran into the issue of not enough build space. This is also something you should consider when you're weighing your options. It seems like in this entire post I've seemed to be shitting on resin printers quite a bit. That's probably true... Let's talk about the pros of resin printers. The first I've already talked about which is the print quality. It's way better by a long way.... Second is print time. Even the largest items (or multiple items) are going to top out around 9-12 hours depending on your settings with a resin printer. A build plate full of 12 miniatures on my Saturn S is going to take around 3 hours. Third is failures. Both Fdm and resin printers fail frequently. Anyone who's used an Fdm printer has come home to a spaghetti mess of filament. Resin failures are much less catastrophic. Because of the way resin printers work you're not going to be wasting a bunch of material when a print fails. Of course the already printed material will be a right off but you won't be burning half a spool on a failure. It's actually way more forgiving with resin. Fourth is setup. Once you have your machine calibrated for your resin of choice there's very little tweaking necessary from one print to another.

[@brennenfarrell5406]

Thank you so much for this comment

[@culan_SCP]

Bro rote a hole essayy

[@AvianEdits]

@@culan_SCP wrote*

[@AvianEdits]

@@culan_SCP Whole*

[@pilotreg]

but with resin isnt it easy to print in small parts then connect?

[@shelbygates822]

This video really makes me want to get one now!!! I love your videos, I wish the algorithm wasn’t the way it is.

[@nachgebaut4176]

Please get proper protection against the resin. It CAN CAUSE CANCER.

[@ImCaveJohnson]

I just returned my resin printer. Damaging your health and environment isnt worth having more plastic crap

[@kylecrowder4571]

Dude I love that "ART IS NOT A CRIME" poster back there. Really hits home with me because my passion is making sports art (can't sell it sadly) so pretty much for free fun at this point.

[@kylecrowder4571]

Great video btw

[@lindsaynie8309]

Thank you for this! You answered all the questions I had about UV resin printing. I want one, but I don't have the time... so for now my fillament will have to continue to do the job.

[@Janovich]

4:20 "you can cause damage to your skin" It is much more nefarious than that. That stuff can damage your nervous system and can lead to serious disorders.

[@noway8233]

Yeah, but thats if yuo drink the resin...i think if yuo are a normal guy, there is no problem , as an example yuo have a kitchen that can burn yuo, but yuo use evreyday

[@Janovich]

@@noway8233 No bro, it is all about prolonged exposure. If you use that shit daily you should handle it with a mask and filter. Not just if you drink it.

[@3-DMonkey]

@@Janovichthe delicious fumes messes yur head

[@raginggamer2109]

I just bought a UV resin printer before i saw this video, but i really do not mind all the work involved. It makes you closer to the item you are creating since you have several steps after its made.

[@Akshay-cj3hq]

Cope

[@raginggamer2109]

@@Akshay-cj3hq 👀

[@TheFilipFonky]

@@Akshay-cj3hq based

[@SaHaRaSquad]

FDM printers can be pretty precise, especially with very thin layers. The problem is the print time, which explodes as shown in the video. I still think I'll go for a Prusa i3 next (and maybe a budget SLA later for some miniatures) - those things are pretty straightforward and not as messy, and I still have more than enough filament lying around.

[@jgoodpaster9725]

If you’re worried about print time get a creality K1 max or a Bambu labs P1P

[@theswedishcommentor]

I think people should know that resin printers are REALLY toxic too, it doesn't just smell bad

[@ajdexter4195]

Can we just appreciate how well Dan presents and talks to us, so professional and I feel like a friend is talking to me. Wow Dan I want to have presentation skills like this.

[@elementscity4204]

I know I'm late, but there was a bunch of wrong data in the video, so I wouldn't call it professionals. He said, that its hard to discern which one is safer. NO ITS NOT. Filament is a 100% more safe. first of all, if you are touching the nozzle of a fillament printer, you SHOULD NOT BE 3D printing at all because its like puting your hands inside an working oven. If you ever touch the resin without gloves, you must immediately wash it off, without washing it into the sink. Resin also have vapors, which are 10 times more dangerous than fillement vapors. So yeah, he totally underestimated the safety side

[@ajdexter4195]

@@elementscity4204 Dan is still a legend, he knows what he’s on about

[@fireflare260]

I just saw this and the guy was talking so fast I thought he had done rails before he filmed.

[@ajdexter4195]

@@fireflare260 what

[@Gold63Beast]

Right to the point! Glad to see good quality content is still on KZbin. And not some robot lady reading a comparison list.

[@salemcripple]

I have both. Love resin printing for it's detail. Hate it for it's cost per size (to even approach the size of an fdm printer, you're spending 10x as much money). And (i know this is a personal problem), i live in an RV. No way in hell i could use a resin printer in here! So it stays in the garage at the other end of the property (2 acres away). Where as my fdm can sit quite happily right on my desk in the rv. PLA, and PETG are both non-toxic to print indoors. Plus the FDM printer is just fun to watch! I like being able to modify my machines to make them more unique, or better functioning. This is something you can't really do to a resin printer. But again, like i said, i love the AMAZING detail of the resin printer.

[@joycecollar]

Your comment about where you can use you fdm answered my query. I have a limited space in my bedroom for crafting and was worried about the odor. Thank you

[@Shamanteng]

Cheers for the insights! I was pondering if I could enter this hobby but it seems too complicated (as in the process + timing) for me right now. I didn't know resin required all these extra steps!

[@techforever1970]

I know, right! I was about to purchase a Creality resin printer but THANK GOD I watched this video. I also didn’t know that resin required all these steps. Waaaaaay too complicated of a hobby for my liking.

[@Shamanteng]

@@techforever1970 Yup and the fact that it's also messy I live in a appartement so I don't have any place where I can do this hobby (like a garage). Before this video, I would have thought that I just needed to "cut & trim" the object after it's done being printed.

[@ohjoshdarnit]

This is where I'm at too. Resin looks great but I can't handle that much time. Very useful video.

[@BabyJesus66]

It's not nearly as bad as he makes it out to be. Plus you can get a wash and cure station that makes cleaning way easy. I literally put a part directly from the build plate into the wash and cure, and wash it for 1.5mins, then take it out dry it, cure it for 3 minutes and it's done. It takes maybe 6 minutes to do the entire process from when I open the 3d printer lid to having my part done. You don't need to sand parts unless you put tons of supports or need something perfect. 99% of the time I don't sand anything and it's fine.

[@joshd108]

I’m ready to pull the trigger on my first set up and I’m so glad to have watched this. THANKYOU. For my needs a filament printer will be sufficient. Was about to commit to an entry level resin printer on Amazon.

[@loopyslop]

I highly recommend the semiclear Eco Resin, it doesnt really smell much at all and with the Green Translucent resin Ive had a lot of really great success... the clear Resin, not so much, but oh well...

[@1hellokittymeow]

Hi can you tell me more about this Eco resin?

[@711pizzaslice]

With the eco resin can you still prime and paint it or does the transparency resist opaque paint?

[@loopyslop]

@@711pizzaslice absolutely, I just use a matte grey primer and it's great

[@withinloki]

That was everything I wanted to know PLUS the stuff I needed to know, without being previously aware I needed to know it. Thanks so much!

[@davidgreenwood6270]

Basically if you make high detail miniatures or do castings, go resin. For anything else fdm is the way

[@nerdfatha]

Just got started with FDM printing. I'm still currently amazed at the quality and details of the minis I have printed and I'm not even doing it on crazy tight settings yet. I also like that I can print stuff that has practical applications. I haven't seen too many shelf supports made out of resin yet.

[@josetrujillo4419]

I am actually looking foward to buying a resin printer only because of the printing time and also because of the market being mainly filament based

[@Bossmodegoat]

I have both. You think your minis look amazing in fdm then you print them in resin and you realize it’s not even a contest. Kinda how you think your tv looks great then you see your tv next to an oled model at the store.

[@nerdfatha]

@@Bossmodegoat 3 months later I very much get that, lol. Getting into resin isn't an option at this point for me, but as long as I pick models that work with my Ender's strengths its pretty good. If I try something too detailed its doesn't go well. I look at it and think "Is that a cyborg or a guy who is half booger? "

[@dankujbattles]

@@nerdfatha thanks for sharing. I'm looking at both for the holidays and I just want to print some basic miniatures and scatter terrain/details, so I'm leaning a little more towards FDM. Resin sounds awesome, but for the cleanup and material cost it might not make sense for me lol. I still play most of my games on 1080p so I think I can live with less detail.

[@charliec8308]

Bro I wait every day and check back while I’m watching ur house vids over and over or watching old vids I look to see if you have uploaded I makes my day

[@rvncto]

nice video. bed leveling is one of the most annoying things i had to do. but my 3d printer(maker select v2 ) is old so maybe 2022 has newer better filament printing. Was nice to know that resin has way more post processing, cause if there is one thing i hate more than bed leveling... its post processing. So i guess ill stick with a filament for my next printer! thanks!

[@deathymckill9707]

Honestly he made it seem more hassle than it is. Water wash resin has changed the game. Dunk it in a bucket and set it by the sun, and done. The speed and quality are unrivaled.

[@Professor-Scientist]

@@deathymckill9707 cool i guess thats better than sanding filament lines which is not too easy with PLA. can you comment on the smell ?

[@lynneversley332]

Now I'm sure I am going to get a filament printer I only want to print a few things as a hobby and I can't afford the resin and all the needed items to go with it. Thank you for this video. 😀

[@Lan_ny]

5:35 abs off gasses styrene that have to be ventilated outdoors. Both printers can be placed in an enclosure and vented outdoors to mitigate smells and fumes

[@dexagalapagos]

Aside from part quality, the other thing resin has going for it is strength uniformity in every direction. Filament print layers separate way too easily under load when used mechanically.

[@Sky-dy4vn]

I'm honestly only intrested in resin because the filament deck boxes i had printed by a friend started to sheer at the layer lines in the first handful of months. Thry don't go through a lot of mechanical stress, but apparently enough on the print lines to breat full layers off

[@beckscald3855]

Super interesting video. I won't be purchasing a printer but honestly super interesting to hear the similarities and differences. I learnt something and that's the main goal.

[@CameronLisney]

About to get a printer for my son's birthday. This video has been so so helpful in making my decision! Thank you so much!

[@jst1man]

I think there are a few misunderstandings here, the biggest which he didn't clarify is, what each printer does. Both have their positives and negatives. FDM is designed with more structure in mind, but I'm not saying it can't do fine detail. It can with the right adjustments. But far better for structures and strength. On the other hand SLA or resin printers can do high detail but tend to be more fragile. But! It can do structures, but again it's a pain. FDM can do miniatures of people with mods, like showing down print speed, changing the head to. 2 etc.... but it's not practical. SLA is the boss with miniatures, but cleaning can be a pain. So what is similar between the 2? Both need to have pre & post work done. Print similar, but that's where it ends. Everything else is liquid vs solid. After you do SLA a few times you're good at it. Just like FDM. So don't sweat what he's saying. You want to do SLA? Go do it. It's not that expensive 500 will set you up. For a good FDM it's going to be 500. Or if you're not sure get a refurbished or used. It's as easy as that. Have fun!

[@navidmehdi6]

You didnt metion the strength aspect of it. Filament is generally stronger right? Which could be using for making more mechanical things rather than miniatures

[@RonVB]

Answered every question I had and then some! I think I'm leaning toward resin as the majority of things I'd print would be small, and I'd like quality over quantity.

[@shiloheaston9839]

Thank-You so much! Couldn't understand the difference but you made it all very clear! Great video!

[@alderonsabbet7217]

Thank you sir. I am just getting into 3D printing to mod my warhammer miniatures and this video definitely helped answer several of my questions and helped me choose what 3D printer to go with.

[@KimberPrime]

I currently have a filament printer that I love using, but am looking into a resin printer for the smaller detailed pieces. This video showed me a lot of stuff I didn't know about resin printers yet so thank you! =D

[@loganwilliams9948]

Just get a 3d printer with .06mm detail you won’t notice the difference

[@ausfoodgarden]

I use both FDM and resin printers and think you did a great job of explaining the pro's and cons. For me, if quality matters it's resin, for bigger prints and just trying out stuff it's FDM (because it's cheap like you say) I wish I could throw thousands at a big resin printer like you have 😁 Cheers!

[@titan133760]

Also, resin 3D printers shine when you're making miniatures, especially if you need them to have good detail

[@shley0716]

I follow both. But I like the longer more personal KZbin. We need more dan.

[@smileandlaughs]

Thank you. I just got into 3d printing and this is super helpful

[@ShileGaming]

Such a great video, simple, all the important points covered. Thank you! Cheers

[@whatisdog2955]

Wassup Dan!! Love your content!

[@Hellspawnxxx]

Have you considered using Water Washable Resin, I use Phrozen Water Washable and it is soooooooo much easier to use then ISP, and the quality of the prints are amazing. No detail lose and way WAAAYYYYYY less smell. I use my Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K which is a mid sized resin printer, I use that for small prints with high detail up to 1/6 scale statues. But for large functional prints I use my FDM printers. I think owning one of each machine opens you up to a lot of options. and You can buy the good Mid sized resin printer for $500 and a good FDM printer for $500.

[@MrGTAmodsgerman]

You or no one should smell that stuff at all. Because you have to wear a vapour mask when messing with it.

[@Hellspawnxxx]

@@MrGTAmodsgerman No you do not, I never wear a mask. If you were spraying this stuff from a spray gun forcing particles into the air then sure wear a mask. But in its plain liquid state it is not harmful to have in a in closed chamber with a well ventilated room. Now would I 3D print standing inside a small closet and no windows with the machine wearing no vapor mask of course not, other then that its safe to work with.

[@MrGTAmodsgerman]

@@Hellspawnxxx How are you so much sure about that? People who work with that in the industry, have to wear it mask. The backside fans pulls out some fumes that you really can't avoid even in a well ventilated area. The safest way at all would be a mask. Same for wearing glasses and a full body coverage as you don't want to have that stuff on your skin in any way and of course, not your eyes. Some spill above your gloves, some moment were you don't notice that. Bang! Skin damage like you burned your self, as you need to wash it up immeditly. There are some hose systems that you can mount from your 3D printer back to the window to put out any fumes directly.

[@Hellspawnxxx]

@@MrGTAmodsgerman LOL Skin Burn, dude I literally have accidently poured a ton of resin on my hand one time, I did nothing. you know why, because its UV activated exothermic heat. There should be ZERO reason to be working with resin outside with UV rays beating down on you. Now if you spill some on your hands do not wash it off then decide to go for a jog outside.... well yeah your dumb and of course your gonna get a burn. People have to wear masks at factories because its policy, just bureaucratic legal red tape for those 1 / 1000000 chance that it turns out its harmful 30 years down the road. I studied chemistry I know all about proper handling of chemicals and which ones not to be so concerned about, and monomer particles are about as safe in none UV environments as Mr.Clean or Windex. And I do use a grow tent as an enclosure for my resin printers which has a 4'' inline duct fan / hose which exhausts out my basement window.

[@OULARTDUDE]

@@Hellspawnxxx You should wear a mask stop trying to act the big man because you're inhaling resin vapors well ventilated or not a mask is needed when working with resin.

[@architectinth]

Thanks. This was precisely what I needed in order to make a decision - or lack thereof.

[@TheBaddestMek]

You made me feel better about my fdm printer purchase, thumbs up!

[@LordTaboo11]

Thanks so much for the vid I was trying to decide on which of the two to go with and while resin was my original choice all the extra steps and cost isn't something I'm to interested in aswell as possible smell my family would hate it and be telling me something I can already tell so looks like I'm going with Filament

[@PearlsAnneHeels]

Bro! TYSM for this! You made my decision really easy 😅

[@Light_Akira]

one of the best explanation about the difference. thanks!

[@SlothBiscuit]

Great Video! The way you compare the pros and cons of both helped me make up my mind on which is for me! Thanks!!!

[@April480p]

One very important thing: Filament printing makes you feel like a computer nerd that just got another expensive gimmicky gadget to play around with. Resin printing? You pour toxic liquid into a borderline sci-fi Replicator, wearing thick chemistry gloves, a respirator mask and a goddamn lab coat. Shit makes you feel like an actual badass.

[@OnelastgoTV]

Damn, I was sold on a resin printer until this, great video

[@Cferg]

Thank you! I was considering resin, but I’m going to start with filament.

[@JhoneRavizoni]

I'm considering start on 3d printing and the video was really enlightening. Thank you!

[@TheXzaclee16]

thank you for this vid was very informative. i have an ender 3 but creality has a resin printer on sale right now for 188 so im very tempted....

[@jeremoople]

Wow, I had this completely backwards. I'm unsure if I really want to get into 3D printing even though I would have some practical uses for it because it seems intimidating, but when I saw a picture of the Elegoo Mars, I thought it would be an easy entry point. I think the difference in how FDM printers and resin printers look is misleading. FDM printers look like complicated industrial machinery while resin printers almost look like toys. The way resin printers are enclosed also had me thinking they were LESS messy. The nail in the coffin is that I'm very sensitive to some smells so thanks for saving me from making a horrible mistake.

[@MrDream-ep4il]

Filament is just level the bed from time to time and hit print. I have a Creality cr10 pro v2 and it's a good machine for the money

[@PureCitizen]

really really good points on both side! Thank you! I already own an filament printer but always want to know about how resin one is

[@oppenheimjm]

Great video for somebody interested in starting out

[@ihax4208]

I’ve been using the sunlu resin and it’s a 1kg bottle for $23 and there was almost no smell. The only smell I noticed was after it sits out for a while. I tried the elegoo brand before this and it stunk up the entire house. Keep in mind this is my first 3d printer I just figured I would share that some of the resin is very cheap and good, obviously still not as cheap as filament but still pretty cheap. Also for the uv curing I use led backlights and stuck to the inside of a 5 gal bucket and it works pretty good and only costed me about $25, it’s way better than relying on the sun though.

[@loganwilliams9948]

I disagree

[@jeremy6384]

thanks! this video quickly gets to the point.

[@2fwelding842]

you talked me out of resin as astarter, but talked me back in with ease of setup and speed. ,

[@excellenceinanimation960]

thankyou for this awesome informative and quick video!

[@jd080657]

Thanks so much. Great video. You cut right to the chase. Very helpful

[@sendmefaraway]

Tiny astronaut 🌠 Loved your live today, super cool to chat with you.💖

[@msjithy]

Sorry for judging that i thought , this is another clickbait but i was wrong. You did a great job! 👍

[@that_panda]

Yoooo finally another upload😊

[@Burnes]

thank you, man! the insights are awesome!

[@kiidmarzgamez1602]

First printer I’ve ever used is the Saturn s and the quality is fucking dopeeee I made some doom keychains and a doom guy , my next print is gonna be a multi part figure of eve1 , it should be about a foot and a half big let’s see how it goes

[@stephenschroeder6567]

It would be interesting to see an updated version of this.

[@soraarashi9547]

Still staying with filament.....just bought 4 nice size spools of different color filament for 24$ on Amazon for my Weefun Mini 3D. There was some initial setup, no heating problems,and no smell. For what I'm making it's fine, small figures and keychains.

[@KRich408]

To save money I purchased a Elegoo Saturn for small and high detail parts I'm researching a filament printer for large parts that don't need the high details and will merge the parts. Your right resin is soooooo expensive compared to filament printing especially when you buy the better resins even then I buy the good stuff to blend like the flexible and ABS like I never use the $70-$100 per 1000ml resins alone.

[@DJDANGER2411]

So mold making, say for automotive parts, resin would be the best bet due to its smooth and flat final finish. But its just a lot messier and many steps involved. In the end, its the quality i am after. I appreciate your video!

[@MitchHamilton]

EXACTLY what I was looking for, thanks so much!

[@snivystar]

Basically art you use resin filament for parts and engineering stuff as you don’t normal need exact details for it and once done you can put the thing straight together without the cleaning of a print

[@greengorilla3000]

Awesome video. Clear, concise and informative.

[@carloscorona6214]

I hope you say it ironically, because there are several points that are partially true but are greatly exaggerated in a negative way.

[@nelsonhuang9956]

I like how this video is short and clear. Don’t see much of these these days.

[@superdogo3000-wc1in]

personal bed leveling is mostly for printers that are for the price under like a prusa mini

[@mli3793]

This video gave me a great understadnig of which to chose! I think ill buy one of both because there is a sale on the resin printer so its only $100

[@thedeadman4481]

I want to make action figure parts and accessories and I am a beginner, what would be the best option for that? Resin or filament?

[@noway8233]

Like this guy said, for miniatures, or for very good tinny details, Resin Printers win!

[@michelleabboud1965]

Question: Not sure if my previous Question came through. You present the Anycubic. I just bought one. However, I had no real idea what I was getting into. I don't have the right space for the Wash and Cure process. I am considering the Anycubic Wash & Cure Station (runs around a couple hundred additional dollars). Do you use it? Or do you do the wash and cure manually like shown in your video? What do you think about purchasing this station? How much different and safer does it become?

[@mattycars953]

Thought you were a joke, but you actually did a great job on the video. I believe the Bass Pro shop just made me think “who is this joker”

[@deeznuts23yearsago]

For me resin is great for detail but FDM is amazing for big prints and great of you want a project to work on

[@BazamO]

I wanna know why you bought a CR 10 V2 for $700, I got one for £200 brand new

[@weaselton]

One idea to keep resin a bit cleaner, I stuck a dog training pad under the printer area.

[@steve26472]

how much should i spend on a resin printer, any particular model better than others.....cheers.

[@edstar83]

Neither is better they both compliment each other.

[@joaocosta3374]

Precisly. Two different tools for two different outcomes. It's like comparing lemons and oranges. Both are citrus but different.

[@alpinefist]

So when you would keep the cleaning alcohol and put it into the sun in a closed bottle the resin will be hard inside and you can filter it and reuse the alcohol.

[@paraphraze225]

Thanks for this video, super helpful!

[@zakazjack6257]

For any beginners I definitely recommend the Voxelab Aqualia. It's user friendly simple and prints very well.. not to mention.. detail is in my opinion something you can polish up and or enhance in the painting phase. Grante.d the quality is already pretty damn good for a budget 3D printer. I mean really good for that matter. Costs right now on Amazon like $180 something. Which is amazing. As for this video... despite it being his opinions he's pretty much spot on for both sides. Like you can't really put it any better of a way. Hats of man. Incredibly good information Definitely valuable for any level of experience. Subbed.

[@ES_Media_1]

Is that a resin printer or filament? I want to get into this as a hobby but still am unsure.

[@Utb1875]

2:52 my printer told me how hot it needed to be

[@aidentingley9958]

Thanks! You have really helped my buying decision! Great information

[@24revealer]

Something you did not mention was the strength of the finished piece.

[@nathanteig7108]

Wow. In the past two years resin has gotten much better. Resin is 40$/Kg for a really nice resin.

[@languin12]

WELCOME TO THE PARTY PAL.

[@smallnuts2]

I always have issues with bed stick and clogged nozzle. I take it resin printers dont have these issues. Doesnt sanding get rid of detail?

[@miguellopez3392]

There isnusally aliasing lines on the resin prints that do require a bit of sanding to get smooth, its much less sanding than required on FDM prints to get similar smoothness.

[@csldc]

Extremely helpful. Thanks for sharing this with us.

[@tylerjustuspaige]

What is a good hiquality resin that won’t make my house smell?

[@NinaThoren]

I'm pretty sure the resin can get much more detail but I personally don't want to handle the resin and the process needed for both the printer and the print so I will go filament when I buy a 3D printer

[@abstractfate6104]

While filament printers are hard to figure out and there’s almost always something to learn with them it seems on my part.. I am getting real nice prints at a steady pace when my machine is all level and working right. Besides the small but noticeable up close and after seeing a resin print, there are ways to smooth it out but I usually leave as is for my fine detail to still be there. I got my printer for 300$

[@derKischda]

As far as I know filament printers are hard to figure out because you bought the cheapest kind which requires upgrading for better and consistent results. There are printers starting at 700$ that just work and even calibrate the table automatically.

[@superdogo3000-wc1in]

uv printer:im the fastest,the bambula x1 carbon combo:nuh uh

[@miguellopez3392]

UV printer with ACF film and vroom settings can be very hard to beat on raw speed especially when you increase layer high to the same as FDM and fill the whole plate.

[@rubiolouis]

Wow thanks! Excellent video!, very detailed explanation, thank you 👌🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@facelessfx95]

what 3d printers would be good to get if i wanted to provide a service to construction companies and a service to the government fulfilling contract services and what sort of items could i provide with what 3d printer i have a chance to create and start a company with the support of the government

[@RicsPics-il5ec]

Lots of good info. Thanks.

[@FizzleFX]

GREAT COPARE! thanks :D

[@godzalli44]

one video answer my whole question. 👍👍👍