Light Up Your Locos With LEDs (92)

[@bnsf5624illinois]

Larry, you are an absolute treasure and such a genius! I don’t know how many videos of yours I have stumbled upon the past few weeks. Those videos have made a variety of daunting projects seem like walks through the park. Thank you for creating such a huge library of helpful videos in all shapes and sizes. You rock.

[@greglewis7806]

Thanks for your thorough demos on how to do work through these installations. Really helpful thanks.

[@jhoodfysh]

Thank you Larry for more very useful information. Surface mount LEDs and surface mount resistors how neat. I will watch the rest of this series later today.

[@TheDCCGuy]

John, I don’t try to solder wires to the LEDs and resistors anymore, way too small. Instead I use prewired ones I get on ebay. I have shown these in my more recent videos on decoder installs.

[@tomschmidt3165]

I'm a first time viewer, long time modeler and picked up some valuable tips for installing and mounting LED's. Thanks Larry

[@TheDCCGuy]

Tom-Glad to have you here, enjoy the videos-Larry

[@SpencerBaum]

I got a pack of small leds from Amazon with resistors built in and have been using them on all my locos. They're so easy to install and look great!

[@TheDCCGuy]

Thanks for sharing

[@markgoodrich941]

Thanks again for a great video. I have ordered my parts and by the time they arrive I will be ready. I appreciate your time for preparing these videos for us.

[@karguy1720]

I've DCC-upgraded a number of old locomotives, and the lighting has been the most difficult part of each upgrade. Your suggestions will make this much easier for me. Many thanks!

[@TheDCCGuy]

Thanks for sharing

[@scotttucker8127]

Merry Christmas Larry to you and your family ⛄🎄 and thanks for your helpful videos they really help me learn alot about Dcc and doing projects

[@mysticrailroad]

Love those Southern Alcos

[@TheDCCGuy]

Me too, my favorite diesel locos.

[@michaelricks1618]

I'll be able to try this myself now! Thanks a lot for sharing such useful info, Larry.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Hope it works for you. More tomorrow.

[@swiv99]

Excellent tutorial and info...thanks for the links to products too. :)

[@Lefthandedhammer]

3000 to 17.9 in a little more then a year! Good job.

[@dapro2848]

For every one who does not know . Go to Evan Designs and buy there LEDs with bridge rectifier. They do not have polarity issues. Many colors and sizes. You can not get any easier then this and are ready to install. I put a dab of yellow paint on the tip to tone it down a little. Once you try these you will not use anything else.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Good link, I tried to find them previously to no avail so bookmarked them this time.

[@clerenyvald8385]

I subbed and liked, because this can be used in the scales I do. That, and inspired by those beautiful RS-3 models.

[@wilzdart]

Really learned a lot with this video on LED's , Up to now just used them on buildings. I model in N scale so the 3 MM are a little too tight to install but with the surface mounts I can see they would help. I hope at some point you will do a series on signals using the digitrak components.

[@TheDCCGuy]

I recently did a DCC Corner column on signaling and touched on the Digitrax system. Ben Lake and I think Dana Kawala did an article in MR on Ben’s use of that system for the Canadian Canyons feature layout. He covered it in much greater detail in the videos they did on Model Railroader Video Plus.

[@TMandN]

Pretty much how I do it as well Larry. I didn't see anything about dealing with light bleed. Just for note, I use a thick acrylic black, flat preferably and paint the lens,and LED assembly in place, or pre assembly if possible. Anyway, great video. I subbed as well as go to your site often. Keep up the good work!

[@TheDCCGuy]

The Uhu putty does a great job of sealing the light into the lens as well as holding the LED in place. On the RS3 the shell is dense enough and the green paint dark enough so I ‘ve never seen any bleed through. The main concern is keeping it from lighting up the cab.

[@johnfalk6536]

What is the black putty you use to seal the back of the LED to avoid light bleed?

[@TheDCCGuy]

It is often referred to as black tac or blue tac in some cases and it is a strong adhesive putty. The black version seems only to be available in the US from a company named Uhu and I found it on Amazon. You can get the blue or white version at a lot of hardware and craft stores but I prefer the black.

[@vincentp.chianese2873]

One thing that may make some of this easier. ZAP comes in a small spray bottle. Works really well and is refillable. So add the CA, cyanoacrylate, then hold the two pieces together as seen in the video then spray a quick shot. Done.

[@TheDCCGuy]

I have a large bottle of the stuff and I dab it on using a micro brush.

[@louisdupreez9803]

Nice explanation, always been baffled by LED's with equal length legs

[@TheDCCGuy]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jarrinwoodruff1863]

Where did you get the leds from with the resistors already on them?

[@TheDCCGuy]

I included that information in the description to the video.

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks for explaining this in a clear concise way.

[@j.mcq.8418]

Yes, it is pretty good and he does a top quality job.

[@allencarter534]

Where do you connect the negative wire when using Nixtrainz motherboard Decoder Buddy and connection board. Can you connect the ground soldering pad? Your knowledge on using the Decoder Buddy will be great. Love your videos.

[@TheDCCGuy]

The connector pads are marked in the board and on the instructions. He is about to release a new version that also has a solder pad for the third wire used with LokSound decoder keep alives.

[@allencarter534]

@@TheDCCGuy Thanks, I have positive power on top and bottom pads but no negative per the instructions and diagrams of the connection board. Does that mean I have a bad decoder from Soundtraxx, 885010/TSU-21PNEM, Tsunami2 (Diesel Sound decoder? Can't figure out why the LED (with 1000K resister), doesn't work when connected. LED is good as tested. Also I can take the positive connection per the instructions for the connection board and place the negative lead on the Ground pad at the keep alive pad and lights fine. Any help will be appreciated. Your videos are fantastic and have been great. Thanks. (Thanks for your quick response)

[@allencarter534]

Mr. Puckett; Thanks for all of your videos and help. Had a bad solder (or lack there of) on connecting the connector board and the Nixtrainz board. Once I connected another light, proper solder connection, worked perfectly. your help was tremendous. Again thanks..

[@mgamga9476]

Thanks. What color L.E.D. is correct?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Read the description.

[@markmeade8502]

This has been very helpful since I have no clue about electronic . I am currently in a gathering mode until I can build a small layout/ module in N scale. How do you know where to wire it to the DCC module?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Where doesn’t matter so much as how. I have a number of videos here on wiring as well as installing the wiring bus on the modules. Plus my book “Wiring Your Model Railroad” available from the Kalmbach Hobby Store or Amazon goes into detail.

[@mgamga9476]

Just learned something for everyone. If your L.E.D. bulbs are a bit to big to fit in headlight hole. You can sand down the circumference of them a bit to fit.

[@jasonpeachrick2037]

Let’s say I was installing those surface mount LEDs into a unit with two bulbs in one headlight fixture, like many EMDs. Is only one resistor required for both LEDs, or do both LEDs each require their own resistor?

[@TheDCCGuy]

I always install them with their own resistor, it avoids complications. Also the surface mount LEDs from China come with 1000 ohm resistors already installed. Here’s how I handle the small dual headlights. I fill the opening in the light casting with some Testors glue or canopy glue, anything that dries clear. This will usually form a lens shape, just don’t over apply it-I use a toothpick. You could also use Glosscote. Then I mount the LED from the rear so that it covers both openings and you only need one LED.

[@jasonpeachrick2037]

@@TheDCCGuy I think I gotcha! So the glue itself acts like a lens for both openings?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Yes, basically it fills in the little openings and if done right makes very convincing lenses. Of course if the model has a plastic insert that should transmit the light from one LED glued to the back of it. In most cases there really is no need for more than one.

[@andrewcummins-15thstreetya80]

Hi Larry, another very informative video.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@chikes4862]

1 comment .whi are u using 4 leads .i ame using esu decoders and the blue lead is the positive the purple and green are the negative .i use the blue for the 2 led's ;so the plug have 3 pins not 4

[@TheDCCGuy]

That works too.

[@chikes4862]

@@TheDCCGuy if you have the space then its not a problem but if you dont have space then les leads are welkom

[@billligon4005]

LED does not work on DCC track power, works perfectly with 9v battery?? Suggestions ?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Did you get the polarity correct?

[@billligon4005]

Yes, polarity was correct for 9v battery, this was a ‘blinking’ LED but on track power it will NOT blink??

[@TheDCCGuy]

What exactly do,you mean by on track power? Are connecting directly to DCC power or to one of the function wires on the decoder? If to track power then the interaction of the blinking and the alternating current of DCC may be the reason.

[@markmatteo2417]

I have been wanting to add a nose gyralite in a few of my locomotives. Not sure what I can fit in the nose as far as LED so do you think it would be feasible to add fiberoptic to an LED a short distance away within the locomotive shell and have the effect from the LED follow the fiberoptic to display the same lighting pattern on the light on the nose of the loco?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Not sure how well the fibers would work but worth a try. You could also use grain of rice bulbs. The Walthers catalog and website should be a good resource for the parts and available bulbs. As for fibers I got a bunch last year from China off eBay.

[@markmatteo2417]

@@TheDCCGuy I have thought about the nano LEDs but I have to see. I am specifically referring to Atlas GE U Boats where there is currently no nose lights at all. So I am not replacing anything, but adding lights in this case. I will try and see what I can fit in the nose lights I am adding and see how to go about it. I may first try on an Atheran U33C dummy

[@mgamga9476]

Does anyone know the name of the black puddy he is using. I can only find it in white

[@TheDCCGuy]

As I say in the videos it is Uhu adhesive putty I found on Amazon.

[@mgamga9476]

Thank you did not know spelling so could not find it.

[@mgamga9476]

Thanks so much I found it. I was spelling it Ahu. Did not work LOL Your trains and layout are awsome. Wish I had space to do that. I am going to start a 4x8 n scale layout. Just need to figure a track plan.

[@markmatteo2417]

If you were limited on room, how many LED could be used on one function. Could you add SMD LED like 0402's for a pair of step lights or ground/truck lights to say the headlight function if you had to? Or is 3 LEDs too much for the output of a single function? Thanks Mark

[@TheDCCGuy]

It depends on the decoder and how much current each function can support. Each LED requires about 20 mA and most functions cannot exceed 100 mA so that would mean 5. Check your decoder instructions to see what the functions are limited to.

[@markmatteo2417]

@@TheDCCGuy Great answer thank you for explaining. I am only considering a headlight and 2 truck lights together. Thanks again!

[@frankhellman6879]

I'm not at all an LED expert, but I've heard that LEDs can be dimmed (within limits) by increasing the amount of resistance added. Effectively, provide a little less voltage than the LED is rated at. If correct, that would be a convenient way to abate a "too bright" headlight. What I don't know is how many ohms would be reasonable, in series with those nice pre-wired 1k resistor LED units you're using, to get some reasonable dimming - without causing flickering or inconsistencies. Do you have any insights on this? Thanks!

[@TheDCCGuy]

You can play around with a small trim potentiometer to dial in various resistance values just be careful not to overdo it and blow the LED. Once you find the right amount of dimming just use a multimeter to read the resistance across the pot and you’ll know what size resistor to install with the LED.

[@ricter591]

Thanks Larry

[@Steve_B1950]

Should the resistor always be attached to the positive lead or does it make a difference as long as the LED has the correct polarity?

[@TheDCCGuy]

The location does not matter as long as it is there.

[@Steve_B1950]

@@TheDCCGuy Thanks so much!

[@HillcotMR]

I've used some led strips for mine. Good video, subbed

[@TheDCCGuy]

Thanks, iI think I have a lifetime supply left over from our kitchen remodel!

[@HillcotMR]

The DCC Guy, store them, you’ll need them

[@milepost856]

I like smd led 0402 warm light prewire 900 resistors, that 4 inf dcc guy

[@fallnflags5587]

Hi the Energineering . Com link goes to a KZbin page, is that correct? As a aside, do you have a recommendation for reasonable priced and reliable DPDT toggle switches for turnouts? Thanks. Don

[@TheDCCGuy]

My mistake, take off the first “e” and it will work. As for the DPDT toggles my go to for almost all things electronic is All Electronics.

[@mandbhomestead]

Larry Great video on lighting up a loco, love all the tips and tricks in the video. I am interested in the pre-wired surface mount LEDS also. I think you said you would get links for those in this video, looking forward to those links. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken

[@TheDCCGuy]

www.ebay.com/itm/L0805GW-20pcs-Pre-Wired-GOLDEN-White-SMD-0805-Led-Lamp-Light-Set-12V-18V-NEW-/221183972188?hash=item337f97935c

[@mandbhomestead]

Thanks!

[@TheDCCGuy]

I’ll get the rest of the stuff added to the description later today as soon as I get the proofs for my next column checked and back to MR. Sometimes things seem to land all at the same time!

[@mandbhomestead]

Thank you again for work on getting the info on the products. It is well appreciated.

[@donh8833]

Testors canopy glue is just a diluted white glue.

[@gvet47]

I was surprised you can cut off the lens of an LED so easy. Does it create more of a frosted look at the cut? Maybe it dims the light some so not so bright? I need to cut one just to see!

[@TheDCCGuy]

These are so bright that even with the cut end sanded it still provides more than enough light.

[@johncann100]

Larry, Is there a listing of where the surface mounted LED's w/ resistors mounted on the positive lead can be purchased ?

[@TheDCCGuy]

www.ebay.com/itm/L0805GW-20pcs-Pre-Wired-GOLDEN-White-SMD-0805-Led-Lamp-Light-Set-12V-18V-NEW-/221183972188?hash=item337f97935c

[@HHh-qe2ch]

A bit outdated, but the resistor can go on either side.

[@marktravis8247]

Another great video, Larry! Can you say again what material you used to make the headlight lens in the Alco (to use in place of the bulb that Athearn used to provide)? Thanks. --MARK

[@TheDCCGuy]

That was Testors Clear Parts Cement. Just stick the tip in the holes and give a little squirt then let it dry.

[@markmatteo2417]

What kind of connectors did you use for the connection between the shell lighting and the decoder wiring? I like those. I tried decoder buddy don't much care for them.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Those are TCS wiring harnesses. Their website is www.tcsdcc.com and I think the harnesses are in the accessories section.

[@markmatteo2417]

@@TheDCCGuy thanks

[@additudeobx]

Adding resistors in line to LEDs is not the best practice. It's OK in a pinch, but as voltage variations can affect the LEDs performance. Instead of soldering or adding a resistor in line with an LED,, use an SMT current limiter instead. It's about the same size as a resister, only variations in voltage will not affect its current output. You can put 7-8-9+ volts across the LED/Current Limiter and it will only allow 10ma, or 20ma of current thru the LED. They even make them SMT pre-mounted on a small circuit card so all that's needed is to solder the wires. They also make them in a "transistor" style looking package. There are also 4-pin SMT voltage regulators, (Maybe 1/8 in sq) put 20+v in and get 3-5v out. This stuff is pretty easy and makes adding LEDs simple.

[@robertrichter2783]

Thank you, even as an experienced installer, I learn techniques that are different than what I do, I would combine common wire from the led’s before the connector using smaller plug

[@TheDCCGuy]

I know what you mean but in this case because the wires come from different ends of the model and meet in the middle at the connector it makes no sense to combine the commons. Now if I had installed more than one LED at each end I would have combined the commons.

[@sort187]

Can I use those pre-wired LEDs on regular DC locomotives?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Sure, but it will take special wiring to keep the polarity correct. Remember that when you reverse direction of travel you do it by reversing polarity and as I said in the video these are polarized devices.

[@sort187]

@@TheDCCGuy So, if I run in reverse, the (head) light would go out?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Yes, but you would always need to orient them the same way on the tracks. The standard for wiring DC is that when positive power is applied to the right rail the loco will move forward. But as soon as you hit the reverse button that all reverses as does the loco. And of course that depends on which way it is facing-DC is complicated!

[@OhioCentralModeler]

@@sort187 If you wire the rear headlight "backwards", you can have easy directional lighting though.

[@andy41417]

negative has triangle electrode inside

[@farmerdave7965]

When you think you are really good at soldering, just attempt to solder very thin magnet wire to 0402 LEDs. You will become humble very fast. Don't ask me how I know this. Now I buy my LEDs with wires and resistors already on them. It makes life so much easier.

[@TheDCCGuy]

I too have a spool of magnet wire that is now surplus now that I can get these SMD LEDs prewired. Doing it by hand was a total pain!

[@docs9154]

👌 very informative

[@TheDCCGuy]

Glad you think so!

[@uptownphotography]

Nice video and well done. I gave you a sub.

[@mgamga9476]

All that and was waiting to see how it looked. You never showed finished product. Any time you make a video you must show end result. That is what we are watching for.

[@TheDCCGuy]

OK, you’re the first in 14,470 viewers to note that, but I’ll keep it in mind in the future.

[@j.mcq.8418]

@@TheDCCGuy I also didn't see exactly where you wired up the 4-wire plug thing on the loco.

[@mgamga9476]

Also what Is the name of that puddy. Is actually called ooh hoo puddy? I cannot find that anywhere. Do not know what to ask for.

[@si12volt1]

buy them on amazon a lot cheaper and in quantity