43. DIY Lubing steam locos

Steam locos need lubricating too if you want to keep then in top running shape. In this video I'll show you how to grease the main axles and then lube around the valve gear, drive rods, and other axles. So clear off your workbench and get ready for a work session.

[@timmyc7898]

Thanks for another great video! I too would liked to see a video on lubing of the old brass locomotives. I have several that were my fathers that have never been run and need to be gone through. Thanks!

[@TheDCCGuy]

Lubing them would be pretty much the same. The big issue you are likely to run into is the motors may be real weak as the magnets in them are known to weaken over time. I think you can buy replacement magnets from Micro-Mark. They typically had open frame motors that drew a lot of amps and were poor perfomers. Also some used rubber tubing to connect to the gear shaft and they tend to dry out and crack. Good luck getting them running again.

[@MartinSBrown-tp9ji]

I am 85 years old and the plastic locos I bought as a youngster have all deteriorated beyond repair. I would stick to brass models for a long useful life. Remember plastic is a petroleum product and dries out in time.

[@Palanthon]

Great video! I would LOVE to see the brass version of this along with how to re-motor a brass locomotive.

[@markgoodrich941]

Thank you for doing this series. It is very helpful.

[@ronchickadel5837]

great info , thankyou

[@terryflynn8830]

I do not pull apart mass produced models any more for lubrication. The plastic gears do not need lubrication and the metal axles can be lubricated with a small drop of oil applied with a pin with the model upside down. For side rods I now only use graphite grease, again applied with a small diameter metal rod. I also use graphite grease for electrical pickups as it lubricates the pickups and improves electrical conductivity. Motor bearings and any other high speed bearings are usually pre lubricated sintered metal bearings and will last the life of the motor brushes.

[@longviewkelsolines644]

Will be doing this to my steam locomotive's

[@Mercatoyd]

Larry.. this is the third "lube" video I've watched in this series.. you've never made mention of any attention to the pickup wipers on the wheels. Is this area a non concern for the most part? I know it can be touchy messing with them as they can bend easy and lose contact. If they are dirty do you just carefully use alcohol in this area and something lint free?

[@TheDCCGuy]

I’ve never had problems with any buildup of crud on the contacts but I could imagine dust and dander etc getting in there. If that does happen then yes a small brush like the micro brushes I showed in the DCC Toolkit video would be good for that. But as you say be very careful not to bend or knock these put of position. Because these are rubbing against the inside of the wheel they usually don’t pick up much.

[@marksawyer5299]

Thanks Larry.

[@longviewkelsolines644]

Hi Larry I have a 2-6-4 mantua every once in a while it will stop then go the wheels are super clean I'm thinking its a loose wire?

[@ingor.522]

Hey Larry, please have lot of Thanks for your nice ,,How to do Video" again. Myself I built up some MDC Roundhouse Locomotive Kits in the Past from Die Cast Materials but yes, I forgot the first grwasing and lubrications, because I did not know what kind of grease or lubrication oil I should use for it? All brands of in the USA available grease and lubrication oils I can get here in gwrmany from my favourite US Hobby Shop, too, so you could give me maybe some of your favourite suggestions, what would like work best with those old MDC Roundhouse Kits? I use some Kadee Trucks for lot of my Freight Cars, I think some lubrications would be helpful from time to time? A lot of my freight and passenger cars using metal wheels and axles, too, some of the in GB = Great Britain produced ,,Wonderful Wagons" using bronze or brass axle bearings (brass or red bronze inlays for Boogies or or car chassis) for metal car axles, they maybe need some lubrications, too? One of my MDC self built up 2-8-0 Consolidations needed up to 2.5 Amperes of motor current to run a short train of 4 freight cars by DC power. It came from the not done lubrication. After using some ,,Märklin sewing machine oil" or ,,Balistol Weapon Oil" it has 1.5 A only. Well the gear unside had not the correctly greasing...but I used of what I had in reserve here. Märklin started their buisiness of selling Sewing Machines and Technical metal construction kits, before they invented AC piwered analog H0 model railways with middle point conductors between the both of same polarity working rails. So Märklin often known as ,,middle conducting" AC System or wrongly named as ,,3 Rail conducting System." In modrrn times the Märklin digital using ,,multi function decoders" which using a special other digital protocoll than DCC or DCC, too, but using the middle conductor point contacts as other polarity to the both outer of same polarity rails. Sorry it was a little off topic. My Question is, what will be the best working Grease for Gears and the best Lubrication Oil in your eyes?

[@TheDCCGuy]

I use the plastic compatible grease and oil made by Woodland Scenics sold under the Hob-E-Lube brand. My guideline is grease is for gears and oil is for bearings.

[@ingor.522]

@@TheDCCGuy Thank you very much Larry, I ordered mine at my hobby shop today.

[@farmerdave7965]

If 3-in-1 oil is not plastic compatible why does it come in a plastic bottle ?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Good question. It might be a specially formulated plastic that can take the petroleum distillates in the product. At any rate if it does not say plastic compatible on the container then I assume it isn’t-better safe than sorry.