Simplest Way To Convert Old DC Locos To DCC (267)

Folks tend to agonize when it comes to installing a DCC decoder, assuming it is a highly technical process. However these decoders are designed with the average model railroader in mind so start slow and ease your way in and you"ll work your way up to even fairly difficult installations in no time. In this video I'll show you one of the easiest if not the easiest installation you can start with. And by using a simple non-sound decoder we'll keep the cost low to lessen the anxiety even more. Come on along and watch how easy it can be.
Here is a list of current production mobile decoders similar to the one I used in the video. Similar decoders may also be available from other manufacturers such as ESU, MRC, or Zimo.
Digitrax DH165AO or KO
NCE DA-SR
SoundTraxx MC2H104AT
TCS A4X

[@jmcguire56]

After a 15 year hiatus from the hobby I am on the precipice of getting back in. I'm enjoying your videos and chomping at the bit to get going again.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Welcome back!

[@Stanf954]

These decoder installs are so easy. The NCE DA-SR is my go to on many of the older style engines.

[@GraemeHolmes-nz9qq]

Thank you very much for the information.

[@johnhermanson5249]

Love the old Atlas/Katos, especially back when they cost $30. I started in Digital with the old Marklin system whose protocol became DCC. Thanks for the great video.

[@elsdp-4560]

Thank you for sharing. A great refresher on how to.👍

[@stephenrickjr.7519]

Your videos help a lot with my locomotive upgrades, THANKS 😊 👍 !

[@scentgrasslakerailway]

Excellent information, well-presented, thanks Larry!

[@johnbanicki7232]

Great video! And perfect timing I have a couple of engines I need to add DCC to and this showed me exactly what I need to do! Thanks!

[@SouRwy4501Productions]

This video was really helpful to me, as I have two Atlas rs-1s and an old Proto 1000 rs-2 that I have converted to dcc from analogue dc.

[@geac9100]

Another great concise, learning video like you always do. I don't understand why your don't have more subscribers. Theirs no one else that I've found that puts out the content new and old DCC operators need. Great work Larry! Thumbs up!

[@pieroluciano3272]

Great video Larry! Makes me want to go back to HO scale and convert some old Atlas/Kato locos as these beauties were bullet-proof and very reliable! Cheers! 👍

[@aaronl_trains_and_planes]

I need a RS-1 and 3, T-6's. This was a super helpful video since the ones I'll probably find will be old. Thanks!!

[@mikedurhan9941]

This is very interesting to me, mainly because I have several Stewart/Kato F-units, Atlas/Kato GP7 units, and Con-Cor/Kato MP15 and SW7 units. I got it made!! Thanks, Larry.

[@Sowka1967]

Greeting from Poland!I hope thanks to your guides start an adventure to digitalise my old locos.They are a German o es used in Poland,but I am very encouraged to start working.Thank you Master!

[@jhoodfysh]

Excellent video Larry. I have one Atlas RS-3 left over from before I went to the dark side of model railroading ( n-scale 😊🙃 ) in 1983. I will convert it so i can run it on an HO scale layout. Thank you very much, your videos are excellent.

[@Spacek531]

My very first drop in board installation was an Amtrak-painted Con-Cor SW7. I had a Soundtraxx that I was going to use in another locomotive, but the sound system broke while the decoder was in storage, so I used it in the switcher. The "Silent-traxx" decoder pairs nicely with the SW7. The installation was exactly like what you describe.

[@steamy1225]

I've converted an RS 3Atlas/kato for my self with sound from Soundtraxx and it works great. I have done an RS 1 for a friend and also have one for myself to convert. Thanks for great video.

[@malcolmmyatt9092]

Brilliant instruction. Thank you. Here in the uk most old motors are of the pancake type and the dcc chips are on a harness. Never the less, you demonstrated how to on your locomotive most successfully. The motors are also so good in comparison to our older motors. I must get an American loco to add to my small layout. Thank once again.

[@ericbarrall5619]

Thanks Larry. You motivated me to do a conversion on my Athearn Blue Box GP9. Using a Loksound #58921, drilled out the mesh screen to let the speaker sound through and it came out awesome! Next is adding some LED’s. Spent $26 on the engine many years ago and $120 on the decoder & sugar cube speaker and it’s a fantastic upgrade/addition to my fleet.

[@streetfightinmanrs]

Thanks for this guide! I used it to convert two Atlas RS-3’s today with the Digitrax DH165K0’s (my first ever DCC conversions). Your video was a huge help.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Glad it helped!

[@daveg385]

Great vid....i might go ahead and try this

[@robertpetit57]

This is what I have used for years on these locomotives. The NCE DASR is a pretty bulletproof decoder. I add a loop of wire in the two holes on the decoder board, and then loop the brass motor leads around them. I also open up the track pickup wire tabs and solder them in place. These Atlas/Kato are great layout quality power without breaking the bank!

[@TheDCCGuy]

Yes, I rate them right up there with the old Stewart/Bowser F-units!

[@jimsebastian6126]

Thank you for your help! I do have AC motors

[@johnoneill5661]

Thank you for the video. I have a couple of old Atlas and Athearn locomotives that I want to convert to plain DCC (I find it's a lot cheaper to buy sound fitted locos second hand off e-bay ) So this will come in very handy when I convert them 👍👍👍

[@michaelpfister1283]

Well. I love the old Atlas RS-1 and RS-3 locomotives, but I have shied away from buying one or two when I had the chance due to them being older DC locos. I think, armed with this excellent walk-through, I will be getting one or two shortly for my short-line. 🙂

[@enriqueaguilar4892]

Converting to DCC n Sound is worth the investment n technology for Ho locomotives

[@ingor.522]

Hey Larry, the Austrian Roco Company produced several years some US Diesel Locos for Atlas, too, before Roco went into bankrupty.

[@georgewilkinson1068]

Just inspired me to pull out one of my non-DCC locomotives and install a decoder in it.

[@TheDCCGuy]

I plan to show how to add LED lights on Friday.

[@georgewilkinson1068]

@@TheDCCGuy: Cool. I look forward to seeing it.

[@peteengard9966]

I did mine many years ago. My first was an RS1. I used bulbs for the headlights and melted the shell from the heat of the bulb. Since then it's been LEDs for all my lights.

[@TheDCCGuy]

I love my RS1, the heavy diecast chassis makes for a great puller.

[@thomasgrassi8817]

Larry Some engines are easy to convert and some are not I have two I been working on for sometime off and on trying to get them to work properly I always watch install videos to get good ideas Thanks

[@TheDCCGuy]

That’s for sure! This type of board works best for the vast majority of diesels. I have even used them on old Athearn locos by sticking it to the top of the motor using double sided foam tape. The one problem comes with LL E-units because the board is a bit too long. For those I now use a Decoder Buddy.

[@flagman515]

Another great video. How can you tell if your motor is isolated or not?

[@oldguysrock2170]

I just want a bright headlight in my Bachman steam engine Yard Master! Sounds are cool, but I have a shelf train and want a bright head light and maybe other running lights on a caboose or other cars.

[@TheDCCGuy]

That is Bachmann’s fault if they installed the headlight. You’ll have to open it up if possible and see how it is wired. You may be able to use a smaller rated resistor and get a brighter light, but I have no idea what you have.

[@farmerdave7965]

Larry, the model railroad purists are going to come after us because we both pronounce Kato the same wrong way. **LOL**

[@DrDiff952]

That's the way I pronounce it (Kay-toe)

[@markmatteo2417]

One problem I found in the past about doing these old Atlas is that the weights in the ends would eventually short out those end wires so maybe shrink tubing or tape would be a good idea for the track pickup wires.....

[@TheDCCGuy]

Yes, the weights tend to float around in the hood. One other option os to put a piece of electrical tape on each side and insert the weight into the shell before installing it. The tape provides a tight friction fit so the weight tends to stay put.

[@localm4037]

Great video once again Larry!! Are all old Atlas motors already isolated? I have a few F7 units that look similar to this video but am not sure if it is isolated or not.

[@TheDCCGuy]

I suspect you have one of their FP7 models. These were made over a long period and the motors for the most part were power hungry-I burned up my first CTC16 receiver with one of those. I still have 3 but replaced all the motors with various can motors but I seem to remember that all were isolated, but check to make sure.

[@Stitch-ij8oy]

Is there a way to convert a con cor RDC?

[@lindahurley-bruce7575]

The Digitrax DH165A0 headlight outputs are reduced volatage to allow LEDs to be connected without resistors. This means that the easiest way to add DCC lighting to the older Atlas Kato locos is to solder 3mm warm white LED leads directly to the headlight output tabs (keeping polarity in mind) and then simply shorten the light bars to account for the LED location. I'm not sure what board you're using in the video, but very nearly all RS-3s have the long hood front, so wiring the board with long hood rear means having to change CFG after install, which is basically just one more thing that can go wrong. I would also say that my experience with NCE DA-SR has been a high defect rate and a difficult time dealing with support.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Good tips for sure. I plan a followup video on adding LED lights and will mention that option. I usually cut the light tubes short, sand flat, drill a small hole, insert the LED into the light tube, plug it with black tack and pop on the shell. I’ll demonstrate in the followup video.

[@JerryFBarnes]

How do you install a Sound and DCC decoder in a DCC ready SD40 Kato? This loco has a DCC decoder but I want to add sound.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Find a decoder that fits the socket in the loco, plug it in, and connect the speaker wires to a speaker that will fit in the model. Some models even have a properly sized depression for a speaker so check fir that, otherwise I use sugar cube speakers from www.sbs4dcc.com .

[@Andrew7923]

Are old Rivarossi steam locamotives like this? I have an old Rivarossi Big Boy and a Hudson I'd love to do this too.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Depends how old. The old motors were pretty bad. You might be able to lube and clean it up and see how much current it draws, then get a decider with enough capacity to handle it. Good luck.

[@Andrew7923]

@TheDCCGuy they are very old, I struggle to finde information on them on KZbin because most of what I find is newer models. They are the the ones that don't have any real cab detail because the shell extends inside of the cab.

[@TheDCCGuy]

That would likely be difficult then, but not impossible. As I said you need to get it running great on DC then measure the stall current and that will allow you to select a decoder with a current capability large enough to power it. Someone used to make a re-power kit for these but I don’t remember who or how long ago.

[@alfredspence305]

Hi Larry. I am kind of new to the hobby and bought a vintage HO scale E-R Model FP-7 loco made by Roco. I would like to convert it from DC to DCC but I can't get the shell off to examine the interior. It has the old style couplers as well. Any advice on how to take apart would be appreciated as well as what decoder would be appropriate. Thanks in advance. Alfred

[@TheDCCGuy]

First look at the underside for any screws that might hold the shell on. If there are none then try pulling out the the side of the shell using the side skirts at the fuel tanks. These are common methods model makers have used.

[@railroadbob55]

The only comment I would like to say is that why did you placed the NCE D series decoder up side down?? I have placed a few in my units, so in the future I could use the functions for lighting and yes, I hard wire my motor leads. You are right on that. Due to some of the new ones do not have them anymore. Anyway, good show. Keep them coming.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Because that’s what the instructions tell you to do!

[@railroadbob55]

@@TheDCCGuy Hmm. Then I might have the newer versions. They have built in 1K ohm resistors on the boards. All you have to do is cut the trace's on them, if you are doing All LED's. I like them too. A whole fleet of my RS-1's are wired that way with no problems. But the new ones I have do not have the motor tab's, as you mentioned. Anyway, thanks for the feedback.👍

[@demetriospappas1112]

These are great videos but I see you mentioning Atlas a lot. What if it’s an older locomotive (Mehano RS11)? Is it the same instal process? Only because I always see them on eBay and some looks nice

[@TheDCCGuy]

I’ll be kind and just say that Mehano is not known for quality. For many years the products were made in Slovenia but since 2010 they were apparently bought by a Chinese company and are made their now.

[@sudro2]

I'm curious why you wouldn't use the clips from the pickup wires for the solder connection to the board? Seems to my novice eye that would be easier than trying to manipulate those tiny wires.

[@TheDCCGuy]

You could try soldering them to the board, but in some cases they just aren’t long enough so you need to clip them off and splice on a little extra wire to make it long enough.

[@williamarquett5948]

How do I program a locomotive that has an older Soundtrax Tsunami so that when it starts moving forward the horn blows twice and in reverse it blows 3 times? I have one loco that has this feature as a factory set effect and I want to duplicate

[@TheDCCGuy]

That requires some complicated programming and I would only attempt it using DecoderPro. I seldom use auto functions like that as it tends to drive me and the train crews crazy to have the loco popping off all the time. However the SoundTraxx manuals have pretty good documentation of these complex features.

[@williamarquett5948]

@@TheDCCGuy I have Decoder Pro

[@francescoorlandi7877]

Gold morning. Well done. When a video on proto 2000 E series or proto 1000 RDC? Thanks very much

[@TheDCCGuy]

I’ve done a video on the E units and the rdc would be pretty much the same as the Atlas RS3.

[@jimsebastian6126]

He seemed to be pretty knowledgeable about DCCs could you tell me if it’s possible to put a decoder in O scale - three rail systems. I’d be extremely interested in seeing that set up.

[@TheDCCGuy]

First, are you using AC or DC O scale? That obviously makes a big difference. Take a look at the info on the website link below on how to use DCC decoders with AC motors in Lionel or other locos with AC motors. If your loco is DC powered then you just need to get a DCC decoder with a current output rating sufficient for the amperage demand of your motor. Most companies offer decoders sized for O scale and Jim Scorse who owns NCE has an O scale layout so his stuff is designed for it. I suggest you look at the various manufacturers’ websites for specific info on how their systems support O scale. www.digitrax.com/tsd/KB895/digitrax-decoders-with-ac-motors-and-lionel-type-e/

[@gatblau1]

I have an Austrian made Atlas Alco s2 switcher. I haven’t tried adding a decoder to it yet. I wonder how different these Atlas units are from the Japanese-made units?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Take the shell off and see if it has a skew wound motor, I don’t think it will. It more likely will draw about 1 amp or maybe more. Also the motor is not isolated from the frame so you’ll need to do that before installing a decoder. I’m pretty sure I’ve covered all this in previous videos. I might have discussed this in video 96 although that one has the skew wound motor.

[@gatblau1]

@@TheDCCGuy thanks, I’ll find that video and take a look.

[@bobrempel7521]

Is there a similar simple way to convert Proto LifeLike GP9s (I have 5 of them) and SW900s? If so what decoder do I need? Do not need them to have sound.

[@TheDCCGuy]

For the LL SW9 NCE makes the SW9-SR decoder configured to replace the original circuit board but they are out of stock right now. You might check eBay or dealers who stock a lot of NCE. For the GP9 I previously used a Tsunami2 but that had to be hardwired. In most cases the opening between the weights is just too short for one of the boards I showed. I have a LL GP7 on the benchtop right now that needs a sound decoder so I am scoping out the best options. I am thinking a mini Decoder Buddy might work but need to do some test fits to make sure there is overhead room.

[@bobrempel7521]

@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry! Much appreciated.

[@michaelgaudette8371]

Curiosity question for you, Larry. What temperature setting are you using on your soldering station for installing the decoders and LED's? It's just the engineer in me!

[@TheDCCGuy]

I use a very hot iron set at about 800 degrees unless I am working with sensitive electronic parts. I tell folks to star at a temp at which the solder will melt and then work up to what works best for them as they get a feel for different jobs.

[@centeroftheearthmining4095]

Would this process be the same on a kato RS1?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Essentially, they are wired very similarly.

[@stuartpattison7597]

why did you fit the decoder upside down?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Because that’s the way NCE designed it to be done-always read the instructions.

[@steveg3981]

Pity you didn't showcase Athearn which was sold in greater numbers

[@TheDCCGuy]

I have done other videos using Athearn locos, check the home page listing.

[@johnrettig1880]

I've got two (2) Athearn F 7's That are about twenty (20) years old How would you have DCC 'ed those and with what type of DCC ? ? ? Never Mind I found your other video

[@TheDCCGuy]

I have an ABBA set I built and painted in 1980. For those I used a standard HO scale decoder hardwired in the model. I installed it on a sheet of styrene with double sided foam tape and the styrene platform was held in place atop the motor with double sided foam tape. You could also use one of the decoders I showed in the video by installing it atop the motor with foam tape. The problem with those older models ws the motors which drew a lot of current, and the sloppy gears. I later remotered them with Mashima cans but the gears were still sloppy. They are mainly shelf sitters now. The current Athearn motors are much more efficient. The important thing is to measure the stall current and buy a decoder than can supply it. I checked another old model with a Sagami can motor and it has a stall current of 2 amps, that’s almost half the output from a standard booster!

[@johnrettig1880]

@@TheDCCGuy Thank You Very Much For the information . I'll keep this conversation for later .

[@tonyromano6220]

Buy new one just like it? ❤❤❤😂😂😂❤❤❤😂😂😂

[@TheLocutus70]

Any Old Locomotive?

[@TheDCCGuy]

I didn’t say ALL, but you can do a lot of them with these decoders. You could even put one in a tender and run wires back to it from the engine.

[@TheLocutus70]

@@TheDCCGuy That's why i asked, thanks.