How to Level a Floor Using Self Levelling Compound - The Complete DIY Guide!

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Win the tools you need here - www.ultimatetoolcompetitions.co.uk

[@drbifta]

Ive entered fingers crossed

[@AC-gm6bq]

Many channels like yours about but i rate yours very highly my friend. Really good clear advice. Keep up the good work..👍

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Glad to help, and thank you 👍

[@gordonpeirce5967]

Wow what a great video. I think I have the guts to attempt my own screeding project at home now. Thank you so much

[@StuckInTheM1ddle]

Did my first self-levelling recently. A key bit missing from this video that I learned the hard way after my first attempt was how important having a system to get your heights correct is key. I’ve seen a tripod system that looks good that I’ll use the next time. Unfortunately just pouring, moving it around and eyeballing the height is not enough from my recent experience.

[@paulfribbens6594]

I use a laser level to work out the low points and high points. Using spiked bases on boots I start in the deepest part and allow it to rise up and over the higher spots. It great fun working with the stuff and a difference of just 1 or 2 mm across a room is possible if you prep properly first

[@clivewilliams3661]

An experienced eye is sufficient. Most of the time all you are looking for is a smooth flat finish, it doesn't have to be level. You have to put a finish on top of the latex and the only one that will be of concern will be sheet vinyl that may be shiny at times that will show any variation.

[@paulfribbens6594]

@clivewilliams3661 if your tiling however...... The flatter you can get the sub surface the easier the tiling becomes

[@clivewilliams3661]

@@paulfribbens6594 For tiling you only need the floor to be +/-3mm over 3m to give the best surface, as the bedding compound will easily accommodate that tolerance. Also, it needs to be flat not necessarily level. If you can get away without using latex the better because I have seen several floors where the latex levelling compound has broken up meaning the floor finish has debonded from the substrate. On one job where the contractor had used copious amounts of latex under vinyl and carpet floor finishes to rectify his poor screed laying, you could hear and feel the latex crunching with every footstep. Latex self-levelling compound is nowhere near as strong as the floor it is laid on so should never be used where that strength is required.

[@adamperkins3125]

Yes did my first try recently as well and I came to the same conclusion as you. If you just pour it and let it self level itself it doesn't really self level all that much

[@edwinmcc]

I love the content by this guy .. I find this is very useful..

[@matthewdobson100]

did this job today on a 20m2 kitchen, levelling up to the hallway and dining room with a varying 3-25mm fill in one pour using screws to mark out the heights around the room. not ideal, would have liked to do it in a couple of layers but only had help for a day. I found it more difficult to achieve a nice finish on the deeper areas. used a different product to the one in this video, and ended up increasing the water content on the mix to help workability, maybe not advisable but did it anyway and was noticiablly easeier to work than the first couple of mixes. biggest thing I took away is on a big room not to go back and re-work an area once it's gone off, it will leave roller/trowel marks and not flow out properly. I know this is pretty obvious to keep a wet edge, and I knew I shouldn't be doing it but it's really hard when a single mix doesn't cover your whole wet edge (again especially with a thicker pour that's not covering as big an area each time) and so by the time you get back to the oldest edge it can sometimes have gone off too much already. was pretty happy with the end result, not perfect by any means but has done the job. might still go back and do a 2mm pour to remove any little ridges and marks left over. but it's getting covered anyway so propbably not.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Cheers for sharing your experiences 👍

[@ChagosIslandCrimeOfUSAUK]

Hi, I like your channel you are great help for people like I who just try to do something on their own and save a bit of money however either I missed or there is lack of guide in regards how to prepare wooden floor in bathroom for tiles so could you please provide a detailed video on how to prepare a wooden floor in a bathroom for tiling?

[@MalcolmJames-sg3zg]

Realy good interesting video. Thanks

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Glad it was helpful!

[@smurfsmurf2295]

Cracking job mate

[@TheDIYGuy1]

👌

[@DjGiluk]

Great video, thanks for the tips 👍🏻

[@geltonbeltonwelton]

Great video as always boss!!

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Appreciate it!

[@andrewross7530]

Good video. Really helpful

[@liftfan2]

Top tips: prime. Prime again, if not sure prime again. Any porosity in the floor and you’ll get bubbles. If unsure of levels, eg big dips, screw some screws into the floor such that the head is the finished floor level. Screws into plastic plugs in concrete will work.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

👍👍

[@pdw7165]

Do you need to remove screws? before or after drying?

[@liftfan2]

@ You don’t need to remove them but you run the risk of the head being exposed slightly as the compound drys out. So, I prefer to take them out as you go once you are happy with the level. Makes rolling easier as well.

[@pdw7165]

@@liftfan2 cheers mate

[@liftfan2]

Also, you can use a laser level and your cordless drill to screw the screws to the correct height. Sit your laser level so it’s a few inches above your finished level. Put a piece of masking tape on your drill and draw a line on that tape that corresponds to where you screw head will be at finished floor level.

[@paulb3517]

Clear and concise..

[@johnmackinnon8898]

Great video!

[@tuffbadger7342]

Ah you used Larsen good stuff there tile adhesive is bloody fantastic

[@robertrushbrooke1028]

I did the ground floor of my renovation . I think I spent about 2 days planning it and marking out the areas for pours, having bags pre opened and lots of water pre measured in buckets. Best advice I had was make sure you always had a wet edge of compound to work to. I had a pair of spiked shoes which were great. Really satisfying job and what a different it made to laying LVT and tiles.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Sounds like you did a great job of it 👍

[@robertrushbrooke1028]

@ Never watched so many videos or sweated as much😅

[@amazing451]

Nice looking job Cameron, when priming the floor would you recommend something like SBR ?

[@gainmaster1]

Nice job, If you around going deeper and over a big area, good to use foam border tape for expansion. Esp with UFH

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Great point! 👍

[@bobdennis8421]

Have you tried this new resin based flooring that you mix with water and it goes as hard as rock, it is for sale all over KZbin but I haven't seen any UK KZbinrs demo it yet.

[@OzoneVibe]

A couple of questions, if you'd be so kind? I need to level out a light screed that was put down some time ago, but (a) it's not level - sloping about 5cm over the 4.5m room length, and (b) it's the "kitchen" that's been used since the screed was laid and obviously walked on in the mean time and hence very dirty/greasy 😱. I actually need to take the high end down a little, so I'll be giving it all a very gentle run over with a floor grinder to remove all the greasy layer before starting the self levelling process. The questions ... (a) after vacuuming all the dust and lose screed after the grinding, will a primer be adequate to hold/bind into a loose screed? Perhaps a couple of coats if the first soaks in too much? If not - what would you recommend? (b) I'll be doing all this myself (4.5m x3m average about 3cm depth - I'm 75 years old - so not mega fast) ... - a cold day might be better to slow down the curing and for me to mix and work it into position in time? (Plenty of those in January.) (c) which end would be best to start? - The thicker end and work to the thinner, or the other way? - Or would it be best to put a barrier half way and do the deeper half first up to almost the final height, and then the whole room to final height? .. and if this last solution, will the second layer on the deeper end be OK being laid onto it the following day without any further prep? Thanks in advance. Loving your channel .. even the subjects that aren't really of any relevance to what remains of this house renovation.

[@pinnacle_moto]

Great content and very good education for is. But when you put your trowel down to see the level I swear I could see the light under it where there is a small valley.

[@nosycatUK]

Thank you, master 🙏

[@TheDIYGuy1]

You are very welcome

[@johnscharff]

Was that old glue that you poured over?

[@drcl7429]

Might actually do this myself now. If for whatever reason you needed to raise the height further, I assume you can just add another layer? Also, would primer be used or not or maybe a different type of primer?

[@antonyporter5045]

cracking video cheers

[@Pete.Ty1]

👍👍👍. Thank you

[@FloydTorraville-r1l]

Beautiful

[@stevehughes4734]

Been levelling floors for years, that bitumen adhesive residue, there’s only one compound that works on that substrate, Ardex Arditex NA, process still the same. Good luck with it not peeling.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Me too, the Larsen works fine 👍

[@garnhamr]

really though? i used grit primer and renovation over that thin bitumen plenty of times. only be a problem if the bitumen is a bit thicker i reckon.

[@doug4540]

How do you know the height of the amount where you started the pour given it was nowhere near the spot where the actual height difference was?

[@lloyd4011]

This is what I was wondering. What happens if it's too low at the area in which you started?

[@skumpuntele8941]

How many bags did you use for this area?

[@MrSmid888]

Thoughts on weyroc boarding with gaps sealed? Swear I’m missing a dwarf wall, I’ve put a tape under and it’s about 3.6m from outer wall to dwarf. I looked this up and max for my timber is 2.8M anyway a golf ball will roll on the floor. Bowed and settled. I don’t think they’ll move anymore concrete slab is bone dry and level.

[@101projects2]

Purchased tickets from your UTC website, appreciate the discount code but didn't use it, You're just getting started with the new venture so it didn't seem right, maybe in the future once you're up and running I'll take advantage of deals or promotions 👍

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Thanks a lot for the support and consideration 👍

[@cedarstuff]

Are you using any height guides as you are pouring?

[@henrietn]

Nice howto. I tried this too for the first time for the baby bedroom. Not bad for my first time. Mixing it up well is important to avoid lumps. But it can even out pretty amazing, even on an old house and old unlevel tiles.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Absolutely 👍

[@david-un3om]

Could on use a compound straight on top of polished floor tiles with the primer please?

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Technically it’s possible. But I would lift the tiles. You’d need to know the tiles have a good adhesion and unless they are really bad from the previous install I’m not sure there is a benefit to using SLC over tile

[@clivewilliams3661]

If the existing floor was laid in 1970's and noting that the the floor finish was probably vinyl tiles laid on a bitumen base adhesive then I would say there was a strong possibility that those tiles were asbestos thermoplastic tiles that have to be removed under controlled conditions so as not to allow free asbestos to escape. Vacuuming the floor afterwards is another hazardous operation where dist masks suitable for asbestos fibres is essential.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Fortunately there wasn’t any asbestos as we had checked 👍

[@davideyres955]

@@TheDIYGuy1that’s good. World have been a good service to the viewers to put that into the video as people don’t know and often crack on not knowing they’ve just given themselves a big problem. Great video. May well be doing this myself as my screwed seems to be coming apart so I need to find out why, fix it and repair.

[@chris6740]

I’m pretty sure there’s not much asbestos in the bitumen adhesive and doesn’t cause too many issues.

[@clivewilliams3661]

@@chris6740 It wasn't the bitumen per se that was the issue. The bitumen indicates that the tiles were possibly asbestos thermoplastic and the problem with taking them up is that some will come up whole but others break up into pieces and its those that are the problem with releasing asbestos fibres that will be floating around on the surface. It was right to vacuum the surface, but if the tiles were asbestos thermoplastic breathing filtration and eye protection should be worn.

[@willbee6785]

Smack on. You could also have spray misted the work area as you go. Where did you dump these tiles is the question?

[@BrendaWells-h6c]

Does the temperature of the room matter

[@bramcoteelectrical1088]

Great tips 👌 i am an electrician, so wish me luck😂😂. Got the kitchen floor to do, and if I get this wrong 😂 dinner, be in the 🐕 dog😂

[@TheDIYGuy1]

You got this! 😃

[@bramcoteelectrical1088]

@TheDIYGuy1 😃😃😃 thankyou your clear video helping me alot much 👏 appreciated

[@MrYoucandoityourself]

What is the reason for levelling in this room? Flat floor, no imperfection, patch this joint with a small amount of the self-levelling compound using a straight edge.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

LVT laying. LVT needs a perfectly level floor or you’ll see imperfections

[@DeanR3]

What would you do on a none concrete floor, with floor boards like upstairs, my home is like that downstairs aswel. Thanks dean

[@Trebornudd69]

The guy makes it look so easy but doubt I could get a level finish like that.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Give it a go on a small square room first and have someone mix for you to give you more time on the trowel and I bet you will get a good finish

[@jablot5054]

It is easy, just prep properly and be organised.

[@theoisaac9948]

Teach. Enjoy the day.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Thanks as always

[@Ravenlife2025]

Bang on! I have a 2 tier problem. Level the whole house or rip the kitchen floor up. If your interested msg me.

[@alanfrench52]

Hi mate can you use SLC on chipboard flooring please?

[@lew6073]

Yes, but it needs to be fibre reinforced for movement. Don’t forget to fill the gaps, don’t want it coming through downstairs 😂

[@Skandoro]

Don't do it. Better way is to lift the chipboard and if the joists are out of level, either add timber fillets or sister the joists but level and new chipboard installed on top. Not a quick job but doesn't add dead load to the floor and can still access pipes/wires below in future

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Some good responses below 😃

[@alanfrench52]

@@TheDIYGuy1 floating floor unfortunately. Kitchen flooded twice can't get chipboard replacement panels to play nice.

[@chrisb4504]

Over lay with plywood then use compound if not good enough

[@stephenbutler463]

what about outside, need to ours as had a reconcrete of our yard, all over the place, like to use self leveling??>

[@jablot5054]

There is a resin based system you can use.

[@darrensmith2444]

there are also leveling compounds developed especially for exterior use, but they don't smooth as well as interior products and drying times can be affected by sun and wind which you need to avoid, probably best to leave exterior projects to professionals, but small areas can be done. All products have technical data sheets which if you read and understand properly, will help avoid problems. You don't want to get it wrong because if you do, remediation the smoothing screed can be a whole heep of pain.

[@SocietyX.]

Put a few raw plugs in & a screw set at Finished floor height . to be 100% sure you are at grade

[@richjback]

That primer tub looked heavy

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Haha weighed a ton that 😉

[@JP_TaVeryMuch]

Limey bar steward here too. Alright fella?!

[@TheDIYGuy1]

😉

[@mark.wilko1969]

Should have done the whole floor Including the extension

[@TheDIYGuy1]

No need. It’s perfect

[@dasgill4761]

A few tips from experience. Make sure your water is accurate! Some SLCs are very sensitive to water content. Too much and it will crack, too little it won’t flow. For more accuracy you should weigh your water. Also you should install a foam barrier that acts as an expansion gap at all sides. This can then be cut back after it goes hard.

[@TheSteveKinney]

is that expansion gap solely so in the different seasons of weather, the dried product can expand as it gets hotter? or is it more so just to protect the other parts of the interior?

[@dasgill4761]

@ yes that’s right for expansion. A poured self-levelling compound floor will expand and contract.

[@surfsailorking]

Hoe do you measure the height of materiaal used? Close to the heigher but its obvious, but farther away it seems harder to get the required height.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Sorry I don’t follow the question 🤔

[@surfsailorking]

In the beginning you mention you need to bridge a height difference of 10 mm. How do you know you have poured 10mm of material far away from that height reference point and not more or less material to get it at the required height.

[@petersplatt7561]

Would have liked PayPal on your UTC website.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

We will be able to do that a little further down the line 😃. Thanks

[@joerpower210]

Either you're on holiday, or ive just seen your twin. 😂

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Haha butlins? 😉

[@joerpower210]

@TheDIYGuy1 yeah, walked past me whilst i was queuing for Santa 😂. I was staring, thinking where do I recognise him from 😂 have a good one 👍

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Haha yeah you too 😃👍

[@bbibbless]

Bro doesn't realise this, but he has the best plastering brush ever made (the yellow one)

[@TheDIYGuy1]

😂👍

[@bbibbless]

@TheDIYGuy1 not even kidding. This doubles as my cleaning brush, edging brush, corner brush, splash brush, cleaning woodwork brush, it's literally amazing

[@TangoMikeOscar]

What the hell, vids only 4 hours old and all the tickets are gone already? You should consider raising the tickets next time to allow more time for people to enter.

[@RianQ]

Or limited the number of tickets per user. As it's 100 tickets per user and 999 in total for the draw. Willing to bet someone just spent £90 with the code to get 100 tickets and now their odds are 1 in 10 of winning...

[@TheDIYGuy1]

I know, they went really fast. Give us a bit of time to make the site as good as possible.

[@romeomeoful]

Great video as always

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Thank you

[@Redball1980]

Im team any

[@Wawaw738]

PURCHASED THAT LARSON PRODUCT AND ITS RUBBISH. DOES NOT MOVE TO LEVEL!!

[@coolmonkey619]

Do a video on your diet. Curious how you get so massive

[@cprog]

1st. Thanks!

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Nice job! Haha

[@luckyluke8052]

Self leveling straight on bitumen??? Big NO NO Grinding before.

[@andylowry8439]

Best not to grind bitumen unless it's only a very thin layer of adhesive, best to use the right primer and correct type of smoothing compound which compatible with bitumen. There are so many compounds on the market and a lot of them are not suitable for going over bitumen.

[@luckyluke8052]

@andylowry8439 why not remove bitumen? Because is extra work???

[@darrensmith2444]

depends what's going on top. The correct primer on thin bitumen is fine, but if you are gluing wood on top for example, the bitumen is week and there forever shrinkage of wood can peel it off. If you are levelling for vinyl, glued or definitely loose lay, or carpet, thin bitumen is fine, thick is a no no. Grinding off bitumen vmcan be difficult too, it melts, but with the correct tooling professionals do it all the time for glued timber and other expensive finishes as the bitumen is definitely the weekest point and a concern.

[@mikebarry229]

Another good reason for not grinding is that the bitumen was sometimes mixed with asbestos

[@luckyluke8052]

@mikebarry229 come on man grinder must be connected with good vacuum

[@louistaylor8808]

You need to rephrase. You’re not levelling exactly, you’re smoothing out the surface

[@stevehughes4734]

Been levelling floors for years, that bitumen adhesive residue, there’s only one compound that works on that substrate, Ardex Arditex NA, process still the same. Good luck with it not peeling.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Me too, the Larsen will be fine 👍

[@tonycsapo9711]

Water based primer and levelling compound over bitumen a big no no. Bitumen is oil based won't appreciate water on it