10 Gameplay Tips for New Players to Yugioh

[@nguyentandung42]

Be mindful of your handtrap ratio while building a deck, handtraps are great but if you have too many you might just experience what a blue eye player deal with everyday

[@aqn01]

As Blue-Eyes player that hits me.

[@theod4660]

Full handtraps, and hope the other give up after the 5th?

[@aeris...5389]

Unless you’re seto freakin kaiba

[@GlacierMoonDragon]

Atleast about 3 or 5

[@ignis488]

unless you're a filthy sky striker player who run half a deck of handtrap

[@MSTGamingTV]

Note: "Your" Infinite Impermanence negates your card too, if you play spell card in Imperm collum.

[@m.dedeherdas.5175]

I didnt know this. Thanks!

[@lukuanhsien]

learned that the hard way

[@doubleegg5367]

Damn! This is important

[@terrbear1048]

I’ve done this a handful of times and felt mega embarrassed, trying to recollect how

[@m.dedeherdas.5175]

@@lukuanhsien lmaoo i learned this the soft way

[@arthuralbuquerque8824]

Tip 0: be mindful of bricking (hands that too often can't make any plays due to poor draws) when making decks. it doesn't matter if your exodia deck wins everytime it draws its core combo if you only draw then 10% of the duels

[@leetri]

60% of the time, it works all the time.

[@twobrosgamers8426]

Me a newbie that uses a self made Blue eyes deck: Yeah I know that....but I dont know who to fix it....

[@Karanthaneos]

@@twobrosgamers8426 find which cards extend or allow you to start a play, and which are end pieces. You usually want to have more cards that start your plays, like a normal summon that results in Searches/Special Summons. If you have too many cards that require other cards to work, or don't impact the board in a significative way, then you'll tend to brick. Blue eyes by itself doesn't do anything, and is pretty much unplayable unless you have the right card at that time. Of course, probability says that every so many games you might run into a bricked hand, but good deck building will drastically reduce the chances of that happening

[@MagerBlutooth]

Now I see the issue with my 40-card deck of level 8 normal monsters.

[@DjPyro2010]

I would say that a feast or famine style is ok if you're tolerant of the reduction in win percentage. Sometimes its fun playing a deck that doesn't have a good win loss percentage but you know before either player draws regardless of who's going first that you will win. Almost like playing a slot machine.

[@filipvadas7602]

2 things I remember being really hard to learn as a returning player were definetly: 1. Not to covet my LP and treat it more as a resource as long as I have enough to survive and reduce my opponent's to 0 2. To treat the Graveyard like a secondary resource pool rather then something that's separate from the board

[@wilFluffball]

3 decks that can treat banished cards as a 3rd resource pool.

[@filipvadas7602]

@@wilFluffball true

[@fabrizioorpianesi6670]

My conception of life points has changed since I started playing Resonators lmfao

[@filipvadas7602]

@@fabrizioorpianesi6670 for me it was archetypes like Darklords which have an archetype specific ability to copy the effects of spells/traps in the GY in exchange for 1000LP (with their main boss monster The First Darklord, being able to SP Darklords sttaight to the the field from the GY for the same cost) At first I though it was downright risky/terrible Now , its arguibly my favorite archetype in the game

[@fabrizioorpianesi6670]

@@filipvadas7602 Darklords are a very cool archetype imo, although I personally don't play them. The thing about Resonators is that if you can constantly get Red Resonator on the field via special summon (i.e. Red Rising Dragon, another Red Resonator etc.) you can gain LP equal to the attack of a monster on the field. Since your extra deck is made up of mostly 3000+ attack mosnters and some allow you to special summon Red Resonator, you can gain 3000+ life points every turn you manage to do this, which is useful extra survivability as it allows you to escape certain OTKs and with a bit of luck you can make a comeback

[@iamabucket13]

On top of keeping a 40 card deck, you should completely fill your extra deck (unless the strategy relies on low or zero extra deck monsters, like monarchs). Eventually you'll get enough generic extra deck monsters to fill the remaining spaces, but a small extra deck only alerts your opponent that you're new. Fill it with junk if you have to; and you can use Pot of Prosperity as well.

[@gangsarrizqon2412]

even with a deck that don't use Extra deck is better to have them at max amount. People can guest your deck just seeing your amount of cards.

[@tsukikofudo]

put random cheap cards in the extra as fodder for pot of extravagance

[@Linkingx2]

If you are new to yugioh and have pot of prosperity then I would be speechless

[@Uri433]

@@gangsarrizqon2412 but there are decks that need an empty extra deck, like monarchs or true draco so what the op said still stands

[@Francetheguy]

​@@gangsarrizqon2412monarchs tho

[@AnRuixuan]

Playing around Ash can be so tricky, because there are so many cards that basically fulfill the double function of "bait out Ash" OR "unbrick your hand". And if your opponent plays those cards you always have to gamble on if they are trying to bait or trying to unbrick.

[@clokie6671]

I play Sekka's light. It's an amazing card, but the only real purpose on the deck is to bait Ash.

[@ichide7]

That's the issue, my advise is always throw the ash, sometimes exodia or Drytron deck have bait, so wait for the +1 to use ASH

[@anannoyedpanda]

@@clokie6671 wait so when I've seen it...I didn't need to ash it?

[@clokie6671]

@@anannoyedpanda i mean yes and no It's still a better Pot of Greed, it is definitely useful when it goes off. But in reality if you see that card is probably against an Adamancipator deck, and you are better ashing one of the tuners, Gallant Granite or Doki Doki. Sekka is a mulligan you ash it or not.

[@wesleydamen2018]

@@ichide7 for drytrons you just need to onow the deck 1 good ash can ruin everything they try to do but today i have had 3 matches where i played trough droll and lock bird , ash and called by respectively

[@CryonideSponge]

Personally, I’d love a “Top 10 Deck Building Tips” since I’m getting fairly comfortable with the game (Gold III with Blackwings) and would like to know the methodology of how experienced players decide what cards to include in specific amounts in a given deck, what tech is most optimal for a given playstyle, and how to leave wiggle room for utility and whatnot.

[@YGOkid8]

If you have a game plan or win condition you're trying to set up, pretty much just playing the deck a lot will help you determine what cards you need in what ratio. You'll gain a really solid idea of what cards are absolutely core to your deck and what cards are "kinda nice" in certain scenarios but aren't necessary. It also helps to watch deck profile videos when they explain their card choices and in what number, and you'll see there's a lot of personal preference too. Ultimately it comes down to familiarity with your deck first and foremost, followed by your personal playstyle and preference, and then the meta (which you can prioritise however you want tbh).

[@mintagenart]

Card ratios are hard to decide on. I follow a rule: If you want to see it in your opening hand, play 3 copies. If you need it in your deck or you can easily search it during your regular play, play 1 copy. If it's an in-between where you can use it in your opening hand if you draw it, but is accessible in the deck without drawing it, you can try 2 copies. I do always want to leave some room for handtraps and tech cards, that's the main reason something gets cut down to 2 copies even tho it's technically important.

[@zad_rasera]

Yeah, like Mr. Logs said, play 3 copies of everything, then adjust them later. Also, have a game plan. How do you plan to win? Then add/remove cards from hour deck that help you achieve your game plan in the easiest way.

[@CryonideSponge]

@@zad_rasera Say for example, then, I wanted to build a Cyber Dragon deck that revolves around getting Cyber End Dragon (or whatever better beat-stick) out - every card in my deck should help get CED out ASAP as well as ~10 hand-traps and utility cards total to protect myself? The Extra Deck in this scenario may also just give me extra options to go into with negates or searches?

[@CryonideSponge]

@@YGOkid8 The thing I'm hung up on ATM is knowing what kind of tech cards would give a deck the most value, which I guess just comes down to experience over time and learning from other decks? Like, if I want cards to supplement a Fur Hire deck, what tech cards outside the archetype would help me achieve that? When don't you include generic hand-traps like Maxx "C" or Ash?

[@gaigeriel]

Honestly, getting back into yugioh through masterduel after not playing since like 2013 felt like learning an entirely new game lol. These tips are all super helpful for returning players aswell

[@me1collector754]

fuckn for real tho

[@fabrizioorpianesi6670]

Indeed. Learning things the hard way isn't the most pleasant experience, right?

[@gaigeriel]

@@fabrizioorpianesi6670 oh for sure. My first day playing was miserable, I felt like I was playing a different game than my opponent lmao. Seeing people with combo heavy decks making like 8+ summons in 1 turn was definitely a rude awakening

[@guitarbass22]

@@gaigeriel Apparently it’s worse in the TCG, though it may be easier to run a 40 card deck due to all the limited cards on the ban list that you almost have to run.

[@thezestylime0989]

@@gaigeriel fr. I was playing my old reverse of arcadia ds game and decided to see if there was a yugioh equivalent to pokemon showdown. I found nexus, and made my favorite deck back in the day, darkworlds. it feels like my opponent was playing solitaire with me playing chess. i got decked out in 1 turn or they filled their board with fusion monsters, idk what a link monster is but they just appear. so offputting. the game has gotten a lot more complex, and not in a good way I feel. it's not a duel, its over in 2 or 3 turns.

[@Phantazmay]

I have a good rule of thumb for the 2nd tip: 1 copy - if it's a combo piece, a needed brick or easily searchable and you only need one. 2 copies - for grind game and/or don't mind seeing it in your opening hand. 3 copies - if you want to see it as much as possible. The broken cards.

[@tcoren1]

Another good reason to only play 1 copy (rather than 2) is of you can easily recover it from your graveyard to use it again in a grind game. Like if a lot of your searchers add the card from the *deck or GY* then you probably don't need many 2 ofs

[@fullgoldalchemist9780]

This is good, thanks for sharing 🫕👨🏻‍🍳🫕

[@GymLeaderJasmine]

I was a Duel Links player moving straight to Master Duel, so I appreciate learning some of these good habits, like how to play around Lightning Storm and zone placement. I also won a duel yesterday because I was able to chain block my opponent’s attempt to negate me destroying his backrow with Frightfur Tiger.

[@filipvadas7602]

Not sure if this is valuable advice, but its worth keeping in mind that a LOT of decks nowadays hardly keep strong monsters in their Main Deck anymore, mostly just the Extra Deck So if you counter their hardest playmakers, usually, they'll be almost defenseless and will have to resort to trying to bring said playmakers back

[@GymLeaderJasmine]

@@filipvadas7602 Yeah, I have Artifact Scythe in my Fluffal deck to shut down their Extra Deck, so it cuts off most of their plays as long as they’re not playing something like True Draco.

[@nintendolife25]

I mean, I’m fully aware Extra Deck monsters are usually where most of the strategies lie but does this mean strong main deck monsters are no longer valuable?

[@CantusTropus]

@@nintendolife25 It depends on the strategy. If you're playing a Fusion/Synchro/ XYZ/Link focused deck, then odds are all of your really powerful monsters are in the extra deck anyway. If you're playing something that natively has powerful main deck monsters, like True Draco or Eldlitch, then your boss monsters are probably in there instead. Then you have stuff like Stun, which rarely users the extra deck and relies on traps, floodgates, and solid main deck monsters to win by shutting down your opponent's plays, leaving them helpless to the attacks of your monsters.

[@CantusTropus]

@@nintendolife25 Good general rule: if a deck plays 3 copies of Pot of Extravagance, it's probably not heavily reliant on the Extra Deck (either it doesn't use it or it runs 3 copies of a handful of important extra deck monsters, so it's unlikely to exile all copies of them).

[@jamestran3035]

First tip: Read your/opp cards carefully before do something. You don’t want to activate Raigeki to Shizuku which has Eagle Booster effect

[@TheTundraTerror]

I've seen people ram their 10000 ATT monster into a Amazoness Swords Woman.

[@al-nemer5063]

@@TheTundraTerror lol I saw that clip yesterday so hilarious 😂 but it's just new players thing so

[@Peheal]

@@TheTundraTerror do you have a link?

[@DjPyro2010]

Just yesterday I had an opponent chain ghost ogre to their numeron xyz when they forgot the wall effect allows only 1 more summon so they rage quit. They would have won if they read the card carefully.

[@Surya-ql2zi]

my opp using accesscode and raigeki on my ultimate falcon🤣 and there's also eldlich player (their skill drains alr pop out) attacking my revolution falcon (if battle Spc. summon monster make that monster atk/def 0) with their special summoned eldlich

[@YamadaRyo918]

Tip 11: Read, even if the card has long ass card text read the damn card. It can help a lot especially if your going to use some effect on the card

[@Otzkar]

Imagine ygo players reading card effects kekw

[@lioninjawarloc]

If it's got more than three lines I will blind ash and hope thank you very much

[@Yakshimara]

Sometimes reading isn't enough if you happen to miss one key word or how it applies to the situation, so read THOROUGHLY and CONSIDER. It can mean a lot of difference to know the difference between 'a' and 'your'.

[@AnRuixuan]

Absolutely. The amount of times an opponent has tried to attack into my El Shaddoll Construct with their Special Summoned monster, only to immediately scoop, is incredible lol

[@Kaimax61]

heh, opponent tries to Nibiru my Dragonmaid SHEOU.... Read failure there.

[@psycholuigiman]

Yes. The game is "balanced" around everyone having the same hand traps in their deck. In all seriousness though, good video. Would've really helped me out back in the day when I asked a yugioh friend for help and he just told me to "work on my win condition", so it's good that this video exists.

[@arrownoir]

You took his advice. By watching this video, you are working on your win condition.

[@Marcusjnmc]

well yes, the game quite literally breaks and becomes utterly imbalanced towards going first with no hand traps or when hand traps become less a relevant part of the game, while hand traps themselves can often be relatively low impact trades in balanced game states

[@noodletribunal9793]

that advice sucks lol. may as well say "learn the game"

[@psycholuigiman]

@@arrownoir I guess so. It's just that the advice of "work on your win condition" was very vague and unhelpful to me back when I didn't know a negate from a destruction.

[@CantusTropus]

@@psycholuigiman Yeah that's not a very helpful piece of advice. It's not Wrong, exactly, but it's very broad, philosophical advice about general attitude towards the game, rather than concrete advice you can actually follow immediately. To put it another way, "work on your win condition" basically means "have a focused plan for what you want to do and double down on making sure your deck can do it as well as possible. Don't dilute it with stuff that doesn't help it achieve that goal, and don't bother with cute tech cards that don't actually accomplish anything important." For instance, most HERO decks focus on making Dark Law, Sunrise, and Plasma. Herald Dryton, as scummy as it is, is hyper focused on "make Herald and a big board of negates". But that's definitely NOT advice you give to a newbie, that's advice you give to someone who already knows how all the relevant cards work to help them build better decks.

[@enlongjones2394]

The rightmost zone isn’t *completely* safe, since Longirsu the Orcust Orchestrator points top-left and can send a linked monster to the GY. But he’s way less generic than the threats to the other zones.

[@brandol75]

The best you can do about monster zones is, if the opponent uses link monsters that points to an opponent's zone(s), use the one(s) that is/are pointed the least for your best monster(s).

[@jofx4051]

No one is safe dun dun dun

[@salexpie]

Even if he didn't point to that zone, summoning Longirsu means you can go into Ding which can send anything regardless of position

[@mohammedhussain6749]

Not if you’re already using that EMZ slot

[@williamdrum9899]

Never heard of that card lol

[@Senpapaya]

One caveat about chain blocking, is that mandatory effects must be placed on the chain before optional ("you can...") ones

[@CantusTropus]

I never knew that Imperm had another effect. I played Fluffal Dog and got negated by Imperm, then played Polymerization and Frightfur Fusion into the same column, getting both negated. Suffice it to say I'm never gonna forget THAT lesson.

[@motodog242]

That’s why you read…

[@mateusrp1994]

Today in Master Duel I encountered an Eldlich player that likely had zone placement on auto. He activated his set Imperm on the same column as his Huaquero, which negated the effect that makes it a monster and returned it to the Spell/Trap Zone face-up and unable to be used again, then he activated a 2nd Huquero to the same column, which also got negated in the same way.

[@gravekeepersven82]

@@mateusrp1994 lmfao!!!

[@fabrizioorpianesi6670]

@@mateusrp1994 Master Duel players can't read: the series

[@dantevic]

The funniest thing is seeing people call by the grave my ash and then ash me after only for it to be negated also.

[@astroshareni]

Did it at least 5 times in Master Duel, even in Platinum,got embarresed lol

[@Ogg_Channel]

For a video idea, how about "10 Archetypes with the most unorthodox playing styles"? Like Infernity where many of the cards require an empty hand to pull off their effects, not many other cards need that requirement. Or Artifacts that are some of the few monsters that set themselves to the Spell/Trap zones and rely on your opponent being wary of your set cards, destroying them, then the Artifacts reviving themselves for plays.

[@guitarbass22]

Imagine an Infernity Dragon Ruler deck. Lol. Considering the graveyard would then be the player’s hand, and we all know that Dragon Rulers were still Tier 1 or 2 when Spellbooks were out keeping them from Tier 0 status thanks to Judgement.

[@manporo5865]

@@guitarbass22 Wait, something doesn't fit here...

[@herculesbob997]

Don't forget superheavy samurai's.

[@tatsuyas.drakensang4826]

The strategic placement of card is something I have never thought of. What a useful video

[@Monty2289]

It's been a thing ever since the Link era where which if you ignore Link monster and link markers there's still 2 or 3 decks down the pipeline like Weather Painters and Mekk Knights that revovle around column placement. Aside from those there's still monster placement in your own strategies since if you do play summon spam it is actually important for where stuff needed to be at least in MR4. 5 not so much but if you are playing a deck that needs to use Link monsters often enough it becomes extremely important. That said DLs is talking more about defensive placement

[@ismaelhiza4423]

@@Monty2289 if you play Pend monsters, monster placement is also important. I have summoned Electrumite too many times, while a randon synchro or xyz monster is already occupying one of the zones she points to, thus cucking myself out of a possible extra pend monster next turn

[@ΣΙΡΟΚΟΣ]

I've got one: start counting the number of monsters you opponent summons because they will think you have nibiru even if you don't and will either stop or continue to see if you actually have to know for round 2

[@ΣΙΡΟΚΟΣ]

Thanks for the likes but the first person I heard saying it is Davinator1212. Sorry

[@Dominic__.]

Some of my friends now have PTSD xD i play nib in a lot of decks ^^

[@KhalilSiddeeq]

What's frustrating is the fact these cards are so essential but in Master Duel so many are URs or SRs

[@lanterns_glow]

A good one is understanding the difference between OCG and TCG. they have different rules and ban lists, which affects how the game is played. Also one has some cards the other doesn't. Lyriluscs don't need to spam in one go- in fact, you should pay a few summons first, XYZ, then go into another smaller summons before popping that into another XYZ, and after than you get a free Utopia

[@williamdrum9899]

Thankfully I only play master duel so the first one isn't an issue

[@kr555wizard]

Still gonna suggest the top 10 strongest cards that can miss timing, and highest attack normal extra deck effect monsters of each attribute (To help tenyi players counter some of the barrier statues).

[@williamdrum9899]

I do know off the top of my head that LIGHT would be Blue Eyes Ultimate Dragon and EARTH is Master of Oz. Not sure about the other attributes though.

[@valtaroy3546]

I feel like knowikg the difference between cost and effect is important too. For example, and this happened to me too: I have a D-Hero Plasma on the field, you'd think that would stop monster effects, but the modern Magnet Warriors wich can tribute themselves to special summon can still activate because the tribute is a cost and the special summoning is the effect, and Plasma only negates the effects not the cost

[@valtaroy3546]

Also be mindful of effects that activates by sending a card to the graveyard. This happened to me too, when i'm playing against numerons, they were powerless as soon as i bring out Masked Hero Dark Law cuz their field spell requires you to send a card to the graveyard and not banish it like Dark Law forces you to, so the field spell can't activate

[@mateusrp1994]

Dark Law also stops Forbidden Droplet from being activated to negate its effect, because Droplet requires to send cards to the graveyard as cost, and its a cost that can't be paid because Dark Law makes so no card can be sent to the grave.

[@Monty2289]

This is generally not hard though. Though novices won't get that. The easiest way generally is just. Text sequence. If the very first sentence in a card text is: "Discard 1 card THEN" you have a cost because you literally cannot proceed without that discard.

[@williamdrum9899]

Also if a monster's effects are already negated you can't negate them again. Which means Sky Striker Widow Anchor is useless if Skill Drain is active

[@williamdrum9899]

Generally most new cards are written like so: "When/If CONDITION: COST, then TARGETS(if any); EFFECT." Note the placement of the colon and semicolon. The punctuation means a LOT in yugioh cards

[@ivanariel98]

Top 10 (or less) cheaper decks to recommend to new players to build in Master Duel. So they will only get the core and if they like the deck, they can complete the most powerful version of their choice. But if they don't like the deck core then the deck its not worth to complete it at max power so they will choose other one of the top.

[@Marcusjnmc]

many of the best decks in the game are extremely easy to build in master duel at full power making such a list pointless, use duelingnexus to test out which ones you'd like to build

[@motodog242]

Phantasm is an extremely cheap deck to fully build.

[@blasianmcbob8570]

Virtual world imo is the best choice for this. At its cheapest, its a generic xyz/synchro toolbox deck. Anyone can build the cheap core and gradually work their way up towards the competitive builds

[@Marcusjnmc]

eldlich, virtual world, prankids are all top tier decks you can build the core for out of 1 box, but even the 2-3 box decks like drytron, adamancipater & tri-brigade are extremely easy to pick up on a new account

[@manporo5865]

This is sort of saying what are the top 10 decks. Most of them mainly require the same expensive staples, like Ash, Impertinance, Zeus, Droplet, ect. I guess Tri-brigade and Utopia don't go here since they have more URs than normal, but the rest follow this general rule of thumb

[@user-mp9pn9bz3z]

The best tip for starting player is absolutely how you start playing. When you start, get the easy gems that you get just because you are a new account and by doing the tutorial, the early missions and the early solo mode. When you reach 1500 gems, which will be quick, build a deck by using only one of the decent structure decks (Dark Magician, Blackwing, Ninja, Salamangreat, Dragonmaid, Zombie, Blue Eyes, Cyber Dragon/Cyberdark). You do this by buying 3 times the structure deck in the shop so you have 3 copies of every card and you can build the deck in the best way possible. It's worth noting that depending on what you choose, the deck you create could be even better if you use cards from other structure decks or solo mode (for example for Zombie some cards from Shiranui structure deck, or for Blue Eyes some cards from Dragonmaid structure deck); however this means spending more time and/or more than 1500 gems. After you build a deck with the structure decks, continue to get more gems by continuing with tutorial, missions and solo mode and use the gems to buy the gold pass (repays itself and gives useful rewards) and all the bundle deals which give: one copy of a card that is very useful in every deck (so will improve for sure the first deck that we built) and 10 master packs (which will give you a lot of cards you probably don't want so you will be able to dismantle them and get materials to craft cards you actually want but be mindful to not dismantle SR and UR without care because you might need those cards and crafting them again would make you lose useful resources). When you have bought pass and all the bundle deals continue to collect gems little by little by doing missions, solo mode and now also daily missions (which can only be done on ranked mode and events, where people play good decks so that's why we waited until now to start doing them) and events missions. It's worth noting that often you may not be able to use the deck you built in events so just use the event loaners decks. While you collect gems, start to see/understand/search what deck you want to build and decide: - if you want it easy and quick and don't care it's not on your main account or you want to just try a deck, create a new account and build the deck you are interested in with the easy gems of the new account - if you want it on your main account and are sure you want it, save gems and collect them with solo mode/dailies/events until you saved enough to pull how much you need on the packs needed for that deck. Finally, stay alert of new releases/support releases that will come to Master Duel (Dkayed is the most prominent youtuber regarding this) and look at the TCG/OCG game (physical game of Yugioh, the one played with real cards) as well as news related to TCG/OCG because in that way you can kinda see what future cards will come to Master Duel and plan better your resource usage.

[@steel5897]

Good tips. I got very lucky with one of the bundles and not only got 4 URs in the 10 Master Packs, but one of those was Baronne, a ridiculously strong generic synchro. But to balance that out my dumb ass decided to build Purrely as my first deck, where basically every archetype card that you run at 3 copies is an UR, this is on top of having to build all my staple playsets. RIP my gems.

[@ZyxWhitewind]

Learning again since masterduel and it's been going well, but info like this helps a lot. One thing I'd add that I didn't know was the importance of the difference of destroy, return and send effects. I learned I often had more outs to cards than I originally thought. Also knowing what cards are non-targeting like droplet even though it really looks like it does target. Assumed effects wouldn't work only for them to resolve fine in game.

[@eshu3793]

Except remembering about the impermanence column you should also be aware of Called By The Grave negating cards for a total of 2 TURNS. You don't want to use already negated Ash Blossom.

[@Nighfallion]

Best tip for Master Duel: To better read a card, click on the card image (typically) right under your settings wheel. This pops up a bigger image of the card as well as showing the card's text in wide rectangle box -- making the text infinitely easier to read. This one tip can make or break some duels if you aren't 100% sure of what certain cards do or if the card's text is a giant word dump.

[@motodog242]

Yea, especially for pendulum monsters. It’s like word bricks, lol.

[@manporo5865]

Don't automatically hit a chain effect if it's the first 25 times you play the deck. A lot of wins I've gotten have been surrenders from people randomly chaining Ash to their search engine.

[@tsukikofudo]

the best advice I can give any new player to yugioh is to stay far away from the competitive meta and any form if ranked. I would show then fusion and effect monsters as well as how to build around certain tribes and archetypes like dragons, harpies, spellcasters insects and fiends. I would also show them fusion support as well as great ways to interact. MST, Mirror Force, Bottomless Trap Hole, Galaxy Cyclone, grand horn of heaven, and so forth. That is how I taught someone recently and they are very happy every single time they play. No dealing with sweat and people constantly trying to FTK or turn 2 OTK. It has made them a much happier player. I gave them a meta that actually allows them to play the game.

[@anthonyohler2029]

I’ve been watching your videos for over a year, I decided to try playing the game myself yesterday... and then you release this video. Beautiful.

[@jlb9577]

This was incredibly useful, especially number 10. Ive been out of yugioh for about 10 years, and your videos are a massive help in my recent return

[@tiger7892]

A great list! I wish I had it back when I initially made the switch from Duel Links to Master Duel. I previously only watched the original YGO series, when I picked up DL, I got educated on synchros and XYZs. It felt like a lot to learn at the time when I switched from DL to MD, but I felt proud that I taught myself nearly all of these lessons 😊

[@dynosgarcia7645]

Video idea: Top 10 "going first" plays for going second decks Things that you can main/side even if you build a deck to break boards and kill in one turn, like Dagda+Scythe or Bagooska

[@YohananYGO]

Swords Of Revealing Light

[@tanatep23]

@@YohananYGO Better, swords of concealing light

[@DuckyZockt]

When I first started Master Duel I tried to MST negate - my friend couldn't stop laughing because I had instinctively tried the meme play. Learned my lesson that day haha.

[@joshfarmer8408]

Top 10 bad cards in good arcatypes

[@secretlyaslug2325]

Every other Zoodiac card.

[@bigjohnsbreakfastlog5819]

Well, he has made a video about cards that don't belong in their archetypes due to actually being good, like Ally of Justice Castator (where all other Ally of Justice cards require you fighting Light monsters for their effects, or in the case of a few particularly awful cards like Reverse Break, getting wrecked if a Light monster exists).

[@fa_say_hi_to_me]

Good Idea

[@fa_say_hi_to_me]

Good Idea

[@theshadowking9626]

@@secretlyaslug2325 he's already done this I'm pretty sure he did a list called cards that belong to good archetypes but don't see play

[@ignis488]

remember to play around columns to not get beaten by lore accurate Mekk-Knights

[@Kawaiisikkusu]

Lmao i love when people call the archetype by using "Lore accurate" in front of it XD

[@faereman]

I actually didn't know about that chain blocking strategy, that's pretty nifty.

[@neovah2626]

Jut want to say, as someone who left the game back in Nekroz format years ago, this video is beyond helpful. I've been considering getting back into Yu-Gi-Oh for a while now, and have been watching different content creators videos trying to learn the new meta. It's been a bit of a struggle for me at least picking up on the idea of chain blocking for example, alongside just general game sense things like "why tf is everyone using hand traps, how am i supposed to play around them?, What on gods green earth is an Imperm Column?? etc.", so this video is lowkey invaluable to helping me make sense of the game. Really appreciate the video man!

[@gungy_vt]

I think an explanation on the difference between "if" and "when" would be helpful, and "target" vs "choose", would be pretty helpful and along the same vein as "destroy" vs "negate". As a "I got into YGO with MD" player, I kinda feel like I understand the differences for the latter, but "if" vs "when" still leaves me scratching my head after having some effects just not go off, only for me to Google why and still feel a bit confused.

[@erikaz1590]

I think these were covered in a previous Duel Logs video. It was like top confusing things or something.

[@ismaelhiza4423]

For When effects, you always want them to be chain link 1, aka, dont chain their effects, because they need to be the **last** thing that resolves in a chain for the effect to actually go off

[@NinjaLobsterStudios]

That last tip/trick is really cool, I love that idea of targeting your own card to save your initial play. Raigeki Break in particular incurs a hefty loss in card advantage and opportunity cost but making sure that search goes through could be the key to winning.

[@Equis1020]

Congratulations, so far this is the best video you have ever created for this channel. Good job. I hope you grow more and more

[@melchior0184]

A veiled insult I like it

[@willywills0169]

I love the examples of card interactions. Especially on more difficult scenarios..would love to see alot more of this..

[@erikaz1590]

Tip 4 is so prevalent because I've killed many a blue eyes player with their own chaos max dragon because they put it in the center zone, allowing me to use geomancer to swap it for a 0 defense monster. I suppose a Tip 4a: You can place a monster there if either it or another card you have can protect it, possibly so you can try and bait out plays like that.

[@ikhlasulzikri6404]

as yugi boomer who comeback because of yugioh master duel, thank you for your explanation, it's really help me a lot

[@robinlinh]

the "always try to play 3 copies" followed with the video that pick 3 copy of every extra deck card gonna cause bad misunderstanding. Unlike main deck the extra deck is probably one of the place where you want to play just 1 or 2 copy of each the most, except some specififc deck or card. You want to save space for different tool to deal with various situation

[@alipixiv7122]

Been playing for 4 years now but still watching this video gave me some new insight and taught me new stuff, thank you duel logs👍🏼

[@MintyITG]

4:35 Unless your opponent is on Orcust, in which case the safe zone is the left-most one. ALSO 10:41 These effects won't resolve properly if they are destroyed when the effect is activated. The "even if this card leaves the field" bit is to show that the resolved effect still applies even if it is destroyed after the fact.

[@fortidogi8620]

wait why left for orcust

[@MintyITG]

@@fortidogi8620 Longirsu has arrows that point up-left and up, and an effect that sends a linked monster to the grave, so you'd want to put your monster in your left most zone, so Longirsu can't point to it.

[@MintyITG]

Not like monster zone placement is all that important unless you're playing some sort of link spam deck. I'd say just be mindful of where you set your spell traps, because Imperm is the only form of column interaction that'll show up often.

[@fortidogi8620]

Mekk-Knights arent really an 'often' thing, but its worth playing around that too, I guess. It even overlaps with playing around imperm.

[@ENBYSS]

Honestly that last one blew my mind. Chains are one of those things that you don't understand until you see all the big brain things that can happen. Defusing a negate by destroying your own card sounds hilarious.

[@Kaimax61]

That's why Hieratic seals is so key for dragon decks.

[@P.I.M.P.]

Duellogs in his videos: You can use book of moon in these kind of situations, its quite flexible. Duellogs in his streams: Book of moon is gaaaaaaaarbage! Why would you even play this card.

[@lolokoa]

imperning gossiping shadow is my favorite thing on master duel, they always pause for a hot minute before setting a card then passing lol(i also toggle-off to make them feel safe before he summon either rhongo or shadow)

[@TheBigMWoz]

I really like this! It’s been a long time since I’ve played and this is a great refresher! Maybe some more of these/common decks and why they are effective?

[@Masterdramon3]

An important corollary to the "chain blocking" strategy is that if you are worried about effects responding to you AFTER your chain resolves, you may want to consider building the chain in the opposite order. For example, I primarily play Madolches, and there are many cases where an effect will trigger the mandatory effects of Madolche Ticket and Madolche Salon at the same time. Since there are very few commonly played cards that can negate the activation of already face-up Continuous Spells (apart from Ash Blossom), I will usually place Salon as Chain Link 1 and Ticket as Link 2. That way, if I'm playing against something like Traptrix, the monster Special Summoned by Ticket will not be able to be responded to with effects like Bottomless Trap Hole or Torrential. Because the most recent action to occur in gameplay was Salon setting a card, the higher Chain Links are "safe" from such effects. Choose your chain order carefully based on what effects your opponent has on the board and what disruptions you may be anticipating.

[@Monty2289]

This typically happens in Shaddoll Decks specifically Construct and the fodder in my graveyard having their optional effects go off at the same time. So then it becomes a game of what do I need to go off. Usually Construct since a lot effects have "negate + destroy" attached.

[@FiestaGaomon]

Top 10 Extra Deck Monster with a Pendulum Effect Fusion, Synchro, and XYZ

[@SuperShadowKin]

Effects that send themselves to the GY for cost, resolve in the GY. So you can dodge some negates while also being vulnerable others. Example, Lonefire Blossom can play through skill drain, but it can also be stopped with Called by the Grave.

[@yeyo3659]

I'm starting to understand why Crowler had phD in dueling now.

[@juabby8052]

I just started playing after a LONG time. There have been so many new things in this game. It certainly evolved since the last time I played (Season 1 with Pegasus). THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE TIPS. This is helpful for my comeback!!!

[@juanpablouriascruz1411]

Believe in the heart of the cards

[@TURBO1000YuGiOh]

The title is accurate imo. As a competitive player, I didn't learn anything new. I think the zone placement tip is something new for some competitive players. In Master Duel, I don't remember seeing any opponent of mine place their monster in their right most column, mostly the middle.

[@STEPHxCA]

If you can frequently bait out your opponents hand traps you will become a master baiter

[@Diabl0Mask]

About the monster zones, if you summon an Extra deck monster that's not Link, don't place it on the Extra zone unless you have a reason to, because then if you want to Link summon you'll be forced to use that monster as material since the Link monster has to be summoned on the Extra zone. This might be obvious for some players, but it's a mistake that I've been making for a long time.

[@siftheadsdude]

Best tip: don’t try to learn the game IRL first. You need to get used to how insane the power creep is in order to enjoy the game, and the game isn’t for everyone, so starting small with like legacy of the duelist is the best way to go. Take it slow and casual

[@tsukikofudo]

the best advice I can give any new player to yugioh is to stay far away from the competitive meta and any form if ranked. I would show then fusion and effect monsters as well as how to build around certain tribes and archetypes like dragons, harpies, spellcasters insects and fiends. I would also show them fusion support as well as great ways to interact. MST, Mirror Force, Bottomless Trap Hole, Galaxy Cyclone, grand horn of heaven, and so forth. That is how I taught someone recently and they are very happy every single time they play. No dealing with sweat and people constantly trying to FTK or turn 2 OTK. It has made them a much happier player. I gave them a meta that actually allows them to play the game.

[@pandabytes4991]

I know this tip sounds silly at first glance, but here it is. Understand YOUR deck inside and out. Knowing what all your cards do helps you understand your options based on what is available to use at the moment in time. This is especially true for anyone who has just gone and copied a deck they found somewhere and not built it themselves.

[@Otzkar]

Now do a video on tips for intermediate and good players. There's still a ton of things I don't understand despite playing this game for years. What does steelswarm roach negate? I know it has something to do with inherent summons and the colon; but I just don't get it.

[@dillongrefe6066]

Negates the special summon of a level five or higher monster if you detach 1 xyz material

[@Monika-hw7ey]

lemme use Infernoid Devyaty and Psy-Frame Gamma for that (idc if Steelswarm Roach can't negate Gamma anyway if it is inherent summon anyway) Infernoid Devyaty says "Can only be Special Summoned by banishing 3 "Infernoid" monsters from your hand/GY". This means you will just Special Summon Infernoid Devyaty. Psy-Frame Gamma says "When your opponent activates a monster effect while you control no monsters: you can Special Summon this card from your hand (then I don't really know how the wording works here but it summons a Driver and negates the monster effect)". This means that you're activating Gamma's effect to Special Summon itself. With those two examples, you have the two types of Special Summoning, Inherent Summoning and Summoning by Effect respectively. Steelswarm Roach negates the Inherent Summon since technically, the Summoning by effect is a card effect and Roach does not negate card effects.

[@dantevic]

Easiest way to understand it is that it can negate the special summon of a lvl5 or higher monster that don't start a chain. Eg if you synchro a monster, that dose not start a chain so can negate it, where as if you fusion summon a monster with a card effect like poly then you cannot negate it as that effect starts a chain.

[@nicolaistuhlmuller8718]

To understand the behinds of it, you have to understand that there are two kinds of special summons. Plain genuine (inherent) special summons and effects that special summon. In the latter case the special summon is encapsuled in that effect, and since effects in yugioh only work as a unit, you can only negate the entire effect and not parts of it, meaning Steelswarm Roach does not work on it. A good example would be a generic fusion summon via a fusion spell vs. a synchro summon. In the first example the special summoning is encapsuled in the effect of the spell card, you can use spell negates to stop the entire spell card but not special summon negates to negate parts of it. In the second example the special summon just happens, there is nothing around it and you can freely negate it. Now it gets tricky for monsters who can special summon themselves, and here it depends on the wording and the colon. If its summoning requirement is formulated as "do something;special summon this card", then it summons itself via an effect and thus has to be stopped by a monster effect negation. Special summoning negation does not work since the summoning is encapsuled in that monster effect. Meanwhile a monster that says "can (only) be special summoned by doing something", that means it's not an effect but a summoning condition, and by fulfilling that condition you can perform an inherent special summon that can be negated.

[@mateusrp1994]

It negates Special Summons that don't start a chain. If it requires you to activate a spell or trap card (like Polymerization), the activation of the card is something that starts a chain. If its a monster effect, and the line of effect that describes the summon procedure has a colon and/or a semi-colon, that's an effect that starts a chain.

[@Searinex]

In master duel Dragon Spirt of White's banish effect is considered miss timed if any effect is chained after. Just had this today verus a E. hero deck.

[@CardamomYGO]

Another tip: A lot of people like to use the center column to activate spells, so setting an impermanence there can be used to stop a spell and trap. Also if you have a face up monster on field when you activate a spell and your opponent has a set backrow avoid those colums, for the same reason.

[@Hugelag]

This really helps! I have a lot of card in my deck because I have a lot of strategies for different things I like to do, but I think that if I just focus on one strategy and have a few hand traps, I can lower the number of cards to 40.

[@oyohoyoh1494]

I wanted to ask someone to make a Subtitles for this, so I could send it to my friend which could understand English from reading better than listening. But Hiru's voice is so clear and "auto-generated" thingy write it correctly, so it's not needed. =)

[@Darkaos_5]

Now this is a video that truly helps with new players to yugioh, not everybody from the older days of the game know even what a "hand trap" even is since it's more a community term rather than a card type such as effect monsters or counter traps, also the whole deal with word specifications (such as the destroy vs negate shenanigan) really is a great point to bring... I think you could mention in a different video some tips about card timings and how to avoid those in a general sense, because sometimes I myself try and use a really cool card with a strong effect, but it just doesn't go through for reasons I'll only understand way later.

[@christopherl.1072]

Tip: the card does exactly what it states: if it states destroy, it destroys; if it states send, it sends; if it doesn't say target, it doesn't target.

[@Stratus901]

Banish can surpass destroy inmune monsters?

[@Krushking99]

I am an angry chaos max player >:(

[@buzligtear5761]

@@Stratus901 yes

[@ivanmartinez9536]

Not completely true, equip cards target the monster its equipped to (even if the Word "target" is not in the cards text) , so target immune monsters cannot be equipped with spell cards

[@ivanmartinez9536]

@@Stratus901 Yes, because destruction and banishing are 2 different things. For example, if you have a monster that has an effect when send to the graveyard, it will not activate if the card is banished, because it does NOT goes to the graveyard if it is Banished or Removed from play.

[@truffleshuffle314]

I'm gonna send this to my friends who want to get into Yu-Gi-Oh, great video person!

[@filipk02]

Can you make your list about maybe top 10 staples in MD?

[@ruikirisame1744]

Yes. That would be great for new players

[@ignis488]

he already did, for each rarity even

[@Otzkar]

Bruh how do people always make recommendations for stuff that already exists..

[@ruikirisame1744]

@@Otzkar people just forget, man

[@filipk02]

@@Otzkar I didn't saw, I wasn't watching videos of this channel for a while my bad

[@Necroxion]

9:50 other keywords to mind include "Target", "Activate", "Your opponent (removes) the card", and "Send to the GY" For cards immune to being destroyed by card effects, such as El Shaddoll Winda, they are not immune to being Sent to the GY. For cards that cannot be targetted, they are not immune to effects that lack the word "target", so stuff like Mirror Force and Conquistador of the Golden Land still work. Cards that prevent activation only work on cards your opponent haven't activated yet, even though the effects are resolved backwards. So if an opponent activates Battle Fader, and I activate True King of All Calamities (VFD) in response, Battle Fader's effect would still be live as it was already active and VFD only prevents activations - this would change if I activated VFD first, which would prevent Battle Fader from being activated. Apparently, cards that are unaffected by all card effects can be affected if flipped face down or in the GY unless it's written otherwise, so that Ancient Gear card unaffected by spells/traps can actually get hit with an opponent's Ice Dragon's Prison as a summon target. Cards that specifically state that your *opponent* has to remove them, like Evenly Matched, also affect cards immune to all other card effects, because it's your opponent doing the removal.

[@mune.t8691]

Best Tip: This is NOT like the anime!

[@Asian_Sinch]

If only..

[@Ch0p_sueyyy]

Remember the episode when Yogi played swords of revealing light and apparently they were holding up The Guy castle 😂😂😂

[@mobilegend..]

Inherent and non-inherent summons is a good one to understand for cards like strike, and judgment.

[@esrohm6460]

fun fact about mst negate: in magic the gathering mst would negate as there the rules state that a card can only resolve if it stays on the stack so if you remove something from the stack via destroying it, or in reality bouncing and exiling it as i think there is nothing in mtg that destroys on the stack, you prevent it from resolving or in other words negate it.

[@alonsoarana5307]

That can "technically" happen with continuous effects or things like that Blue Eyes card where you have to banish everything before summoning 3 from deck

[@Marcusjnmc]

aye, yugioh has a conceptual rather than literal stack, since it uses zones and cards can activate in places like grave and removed from play, cards can be in the stack and be impossible to destroy or have different effects depending on whether they're in a certain field zone or in the grave at resolution

[@Eclipsed6s]

Another important thing with playing around handtraps, namely ash, sometimes it does come up if that card has a once per turn effect on it. This comes up when you have a effect you really need to resolve, but it can be negated by ash. Such as having Fraqtail and Tenki in hand, you’d wanna activate the tenki first because your opponent most likely will negate it so that you cannot get off a search of a fraqtail or a zoodiac monster, which then leaves your fraqtail in hand to be able to safely activate, while if fraqtail is negated, even if you use tenki to search another, fraqtail is once per turn.

[@Kayrol1990]

Protip: The big red button that say "Surrender" is your best friend if you see your opponent do their combos while you open with bad hand and no hand traps.

[@rodeofrancisco6130]

Nah, you topdeck the nut draw

[@gangsarrizqon2412]

I surrender after see my top deck.

[@fabrizioorpianesi6670]

Heh, fool. You can't surrender against Drytron

[@davida.m.fonseca1434]

@@fabrizioorpianesi6670 Surrender button only available after they tribute Benten with Alpha as their first move while you don't open any handtrap.

[@JordTheeNord]

Number 8 is def the biggest barrier for new players like myself. It's insane how much knowledge is required to become genuinely good at this game.

[@patriotnguyen2721]

Tip 0: Don't watch/copy the anime. Even in Vrains when they use meta deck, it still scripted too much to create drama

[@soukenmarufwt5224]

This is especially true for all the morons that claim and suck off Yusei Fudo and other crap in 5Ds and its laughably stupid quotes

[@bigjohnsbreakfastlog5819]

This is very important; while the anime is at least fun to watch and enjoy, it's not a viable source of knowledge on how to play the game. In fact, there are several cases where characters clearly have AWFUL decks, which some video games have either recreated too well for them to be fun to play IRL (like Legacy of the Duelist where Yuma's decks have no protection besides "It Summons Utopia" and Yuya is prone to bricking) or in the case of Yu-Gi-Oh! Spirit Caller, show that the character is a complete dunce at deck building, given Jaden gets annihilated when dueling the Paradox Brothers unless you look at his anime-inspired deck and actually give him something that works.

[@soukenmarufwt5224]

The funniest part. In Tag Force the devs realised how god awful character decks are they had to be buffed for the real game such as give Jaden King of the Swamp. Yusei actually having a decent engine instead of 80% terrible circumstantial cards. Etc. Blair in Tag Force 3 was given (OCG 2008) Lightsworn as her anime gimmick was comically bad. They had to make all of those changes so you dont just win matches with a mediocre Monarch deck every single time (Even in Tag Force 6)

[@aroperdope]

@@bigjohnsbreakfastlog5819 there's irony there. Because if you watch the anime like I do you'll notice that there's several times characters on the shows will be criticized for how awful their decks are? And that's going all the way back to the first anime and ending in Sevens

[@tsukikofudo]

the best advice I can give any new player to yugioh is to stay far away from the competitive meta and any form if ranked. I would show then fusion and effect monsters as well as how to build around certain tribes and archetypes like dragons, harpies, spellcasters insects and fiends. I would also show them fusion support as well as great ways to interact. MST, Mirror Force, Bottomless Trap Hole, Galaxy Cyclone, grand horn of heaven, and so forth. That is how I taught someone recently and they are very happy every single time they play. No dealing with sweat and people constantly trying to FTK or turn 2 OTK. It has made them a much happier player. I gave them a meta that actually allows them to play the game.

[@coadpop886]

Tip 10-3: don’t get into this game Tips 2: use deodorant Tip 1: if you are play the game GTFO

[@ragnarok9594]

The biggest tip ever(maybe). Read the effects of card in a deck you lose against so you can learn how to beat it!

[@nlm7033]

Tip 0: Don't let people lie and tell you that most strategies are viable. Net deck shamelessly and play GOOD cards.

[@gravekeepersven82]

indeed.

[@andrewandreski2659]

Not super happy about having to memorize any current meta's decks at any given point in time, and I still feel like there's a lot of waiting for opponents to do something in YGO, but this helps immensely. Thanks for making this one!

[@huntersmeadow]

Unless you are really shooting for the top, you might be able to get away with just memorizing where to hit the core combo pieces. Don't have to memorize all 40 cards, just the 2-3 most problematic ones.

[@Mandalore1012]

As someone who has thought about getting back into Yu-Gi-Oh, this was super interesting! I haven't played since prior to 2010 and so many things like XYZ, Link, and Pendulum are foreign to me. Card positioning actually being something that matters now is wild to me. Have really enjoyed going through the channel and seeing all the cards and tech that have come out in my decade+ absence!

[@vizekonigtossit3829]

my man 🤝 I appreciate this because as a new player, most games look samey, and the game itself isn’t new player friendly but this video actually helps tremendously. You’re amazing!

[@goatyachty1762]

Hey hiru! I'm new to yugioh, and actually came from your WoW channel! I never thought I would've gotten into yugioh but here I am and remembered you have this channel. It's been a struggle to learn this game because there are not many videos like this one. For example you know how we can find a wow guide for any type of gameplay, role, class, and spec... well yugioh has deck profiles but they don't go that in depth. I think videos like this that aren't yugioh 101 but not too complex either are perfect. I would love to see more videos like this. Or even videos on how certain decks work/their main objective

[@Dizzy0422]

In regards to chain blocking, another example is Frightfur Tiger and Fluffal Penguin. If you fusion summon Tiger with Penguin and order the effects with Tiger as chain link 1 and penguin as chain link 2, your Tiger is protected from Solemn Strike and similar cards.

[@Frostnburn]

Point #5 also goes into Point #7 as well, if you set your S/T only as your last action during MP2, you have the most amount of S/T zones you can use in order to avoid Infinite Impermanence's lingering effect when playing S/T from your hand.

[@zeldaandTwink]

I think a really useful tool on the fan made simulators is that it collects data from the winning duels of top 10% of players from the past 30 days and sees what cards they are using so that a new or returning player can quickly pick up on what's currently meta. Like it would give usage statistics like "this card is used in 15% of winning decks, most often at 2" As it is you have to poke around and lose a lot before you have any idea what's going on, or you have to spend hours researching from sources often months or years old, neither of which are alot of fun

[@jman667755]

Just to add on to point 10, if a card says negate whatever but dosen't specify where then the target moving locations will not stop the negate. In your blue eyes example if Number F0 was used it would still negate the first effect it just would not steal the monster. Also had someone cosmic cyclone their own card because they thought it would save it from getting ashed.

[@yoferpher]

One tip to consider after playing some decks on Master Duel: Attack order situations. There are instances where you want to attack with the strongest monster first, while there are others where having your weakest attack first in order to bait certain card activations.

[@Trekkie46]

Zone placement deserves an honorable mention for Mekk Knights. The deck is still prevalent enough that it's important to know not to place cards in the same column if it can be avoided. I'd also mention which monsters to attack with in what order. I know no one plays Gorz anymore, but he's an old school hand trap that would summon following any damage and summon a token equal to that damage. You had to attack with your weakest monsters first or you'd give your opponent a token to walk over all your monsters. More than that, if you can anticipate other monsters being summoned such as certain Unchained monsters, save certain monsters to deal with that. It can determine the game and often does.

[@ryanthornton2438]

Thanks for giving a good refresher. One possible video is idea is using older legacy cards like "Scapegoat or other effect monsters that easily bring themselves back from the graveyard", which are not as reprinted as much but are viable but easily overlooked especially for a Warrior deck toolbox/basics.

[@mateusrp1994]

About setting Spell/Traps on different columns than your opponent's set Spell/Traps to avoid a potential Imperm, you can also turn that around and set YOUR Imperm in those columns, and negate both a monster effect and that set spell/trap card. Or maybe its not a set card, but an already face-up floodgate that's really annoying you, you can set your Imperm to that column and the next turn activate the Imperm and turning off the floodgate for a turn.

[@chaoscontroller316]

I've done that Dragon Spirit of White example. Tricks like that are why monsters with Quick Effects are better as combo pieces or boss monsters.

[@Neceroe]

Dragon spirit of white even works through cards like skilldrain in the same way that its shown in this video making it a really good and valuable card when either you or your opponent has a skill drain up

[@davidiswhat]

Nice vid. I wouldn't mind seeing a part 2.

[@TheMartiann]

That tip 10 was a really good choice but it made me surprised you haven't talked about knowing the difference between sending cards to the grave and destroying. Or maybe when a card says " cannot target " or then a effect says all monsters

[@zlPaRaDoXx]

Thanks for this video as someone who hasn't played yugioh in years this video was very helpful