Phoebe Philo Doesn't Care What You Think

In today's video I react to Vanessa Friedman's interview with Phoebe Philo for the New York times. I discuss the key points and what to expect with the future of Phoebe Philo's brand.
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[@Whtpaper]

That first article segment made me chuckle. I worked for a global sportswear giant for 20 years (I was recently laid off) and it was all about the storytelling. We're nothing without the story. 🙄 I agree with Phoebe, it's just a pair of shoes and a sweatshirt. 😂

[@desir9226]

She literally is doing storytelling; designing clothes by thinking about the experience of a woman wearing the pieces is storytelling, you’re trying to make the best clothes to create the best « wearing experience for women » from a certain age…. Literally storytelling.

[@themarquis336]

You don’t understand what they mean by storytelling, but it is funny that you think you found a loophole in the logic of one the most intelligent fashion designers of our times and one of the most prolific fashion journalists. Good job, sweetie 🤣

[@carrington2949]

What you are witnessing is a designer who designs first. Much of fashion now , and honestly for quite sometime, has been about marketing. Marketing is telling a story. Marketing is creating a connection. Madam Phobe is simply designing beautiful pieces. The collection just so happens to be incredibly marketable.

[@desir9226]

@@themarquis336 this is a very flawed argument. You think fashion designers invented storytelling ? She can definitely have her own view on what storytelling is, that’s fine. But remember, when you’ll be talking about this collection to the people around you, dont use a character and a context. You dont design out of thine air. Great designers tell stories through products no matter how you try to twist and turn it. Now if we are talking about storytelling in a sense of very theatrical worlds in which a character goes through different stages etc etc then I understand you but note, Madame Philo’s brand is Phoebe Philo, the brand equates to her, in this sense to her own story, so i can beleive that we are buying her clothes due to her story ? Right, would the commercial success be the same if the same clothes were designed by SpongeBob under the BikiniBottom Label ? she is design first yes, but with a certain idea and story in mind, why is she making this types of clothes and not other, why under this particular label that holds wait and strongly correlates to the type of clothes_products being made. I never said the journalist was wrong, THEY ARE NOT,always makes very valid points, I’m trying to discuss with them, nor did I say that Phoebe Philo is not making sense, I’m just pointing out the fact that even if the storytelling aspect might not be the initial focus and starting point of the reflection behind these collections-products, It is present and very clear once you look at the outcome. So no point in acting like a the angel Michael, either ask me what I meant about what I typed so we can continue the discussion or go about your day if you dont want to have a conversation, no one was forcing you to reply.

[@giedrebey5444]

I love her concept. I loved her previous work, not as much her brand now, well it looked to me not feminine enough. But this second drop, I love some pieces. They are edgy, great quality and what I love the most, it’s not for everyone. Her concept is more high fashion, not disposable fashion. When it comes to prices, some pieces are very reasonable to compare to the rest of luxury market, but at the same time more high fashion. And I think setting the prices high, it creates presence for her brand. It is luxury brand, and Celine for years was not the main name, it was Celine by Phoebe Philo, that everyone wanted, and it still keeps high prices in resale markets. So if Chanel , for synthetic fabrics can charge thousands, why not PP for natural luxurious quality fabrics, and unique details. Have a blessed day🙏❤️

[@etoufee21]

I liked this review, please keep it up. I agree with Philo's philosophy for her concepts and balance of work/life. With sustainability (in ALL its forms) becoming the core of fashion and its future, I think the demands of haute couture must change. I totally agree with you about these "explanations" that some brands state to justify enormous price points. I've worked in design and crafting fashion (apparel and home fashions) all of my life, in mostly high-quality artisanal, so I understand where you're coming from. Your knowledge and understanding of this topic make all the sense in the world. And having witnessed the atelier couture situation, the system, or their method of achieving quality, they need to acknowledge that WE know what's going on behind closed doors. The genie got out of the bottle a long time ago.

[@michelc1200]

Frank Stella once said “what you see is what you see” This is the sobering perspective that created a movement in the arts many decades ago. I think she’s bringing this approach to dressing. Its like a growing up of aesthetics

[@saydamae1]

Love, love, love this content. Especially speaking to mental health in fashion. It’s the elephant in the room and few will discuss. 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾

[@fourintern]

pls keep doing these! one of my fav formats you've begun doing :)

[@linahasselgren4726]

Thanks for another interesting video. I like this format a lot. I think it should be pointed out that it's impossible or (at least near impossible) not to tell a story with fashion. I appreciate her not feeling the need to do verbal storytelling, but her clothes are very much about a narrative. Clearly so strong she doesn't have to talk about it in order for us to know what it is. The women who wear her clothes buy them because of the story and then they in turn tell that story by wearing them. If it wasn't so the clothes would have to have no shape, no color, no particular feel.. and even then they'd tell a story. A different one than hers, but still. All stories are not told with words. I think she's aware of this. It didn't seem from the article she didn't like story telling at all, just that she doesn't see the need to talk about it. I could be wrong in how I interpreted it. But I must say hers is quite the strong story, even people who have never worn her clothes, or like them much, could tell you what the story she tells is. It's so strong it travels with her from brand to brand, and created a very strong demand. So if anything she's proving that a story strong enough doesn't need words, not that the story isn't there.

[@by_sha]

I completely agree with you on the observation that often times praise and criticism only consolidate in retrospect. For example if you look at her first few seasons at Céline it didn’t the seem those collections were sensational already. It was really after perhaps 3 years her stardom really shot thru the roof. I’m not saying that her eponymous brand will necessarily repeat the glory, but it is very likely that criticism will shift significantly in a few ‘deliveries’ when this brand image comes clearer.

[@DMHN84]

I love your take on these topics 🫶🏼

[@lalc2883]

What was interesting about that whole article was the contrast between the over-intellectualization of Friedman towards Phoebe's work and Phoebe very down to earth pragmatism. What you said about expectations regarding Phoebe is exactly what happened to Tom Ford once he started doing womenswear at his namesake brand. People wanted him to do Gucci and YSL while he was already a different man. And somehow, despite having build a legacy, he has never captured the magic of his glorious days.

[@pianomanhere]

This is a superb analysis of a person whose philosophy I agree with a great deal, and the business of her brand. Well done 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@bigwildonion]

Thank you for this perspective! I appreciate how you highlight Philo's small production runs and data collection approach. Tremendous harm comes from overproduction, so I am thankful for every effort to avoid it. And as much as consumers feel the pull of FOMO, I think most of us understand that we can't possibly have every piece that we want, and that is okay. Let's take inspiration and learn from Phoebe Philo, whether the clothes are accessible to us or not.

[@olumideakingbade982]

Dissect away, Ayo. Looking forward to more.

[@VeeLondon1449]

♥️ I really did enjoy, hearing your point of view and would love you, to continue dissecting articles. Thank you 🤩

[@rosevidalita]

@20:07 yes! This exact same thing happened to Herve Leger, and afterwards he changed his brand and I believe legal name to Herve Leroux, may he rest in peace.

[@Viviano_Magami]

Im still confused, whch one is his original name and which one is his label name!? wikipedia mentioned three

[@dalenixon6981]

@@Viviano_Magami "Mr. Leroux was born Hervé Peugnet on May 30, 1957, in Bapaume, in northern France. He studied sculpture and art history at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris before dropping out to become a hairstylist and milliner. In 1981 he met Karl Lagerfeld, who encouraged him to pursue fashion design. He changed his surname for the first time after Mr. Lagerfeld advised him that Peugnet would be too difficult for Americans, the target market, to pronounce. He suggested Léger, liking the allusion to lightness, for which the French word is légèreté. Mr. Leroux, now working under the name Léger, worked alongside Mr. Lagerfeld at Fendi and later at Chanel and freelanced at Lanvin and Diane von Furstenberg before introducing his own boutique, Hervé Léger, in 1984. A fashion line with the new name soon followed, and then came the inception of the bandage dress." - from a NYT article on him

[@wendymartin6479]

@@Viviano_Magami His original name was Herve Peugnet (he was a hairdresser). He used Herve Leger as his label name but then that name was sold to Max Azaria but he was fired a year after the sale so he had to find a new name/label, hence Leroux.

[@SusanSaysSomething]

We need a company like The Ordinary, but for fashion.

[@tengoodquestions]

That’s Uniqlo

[@naomiwilliams7510]

Love your commentary! Thank you 😊🙏

[@jimjimgl3]

Philo's grounding in the real and pragmatic in her view of fashion is also a good way to just live life. Try to experience things without mythology or story-telling.

[@djslikkshola]

Definitely do more article reviews! I found this super interesting to hear your take on it, especially when it came to the cost of the clothes themselves. Too often brands like to charge high price points while selling the illusion of quality when it's really just a marketing ploy

[@ashleyxo233]

I love this kind of content!!

[@Devananta-Rafiq]

Love the format, Ayo! It's kinda makes sense for Philo for telling the narrativeless agenda, because for the ultra rich customer, maybe the product should speaks louder than the marketing world building. Philo's customers are already established, so they already know what they want; the customers did not need to be told about any story, because Philo's clothes already shaping their own life stories in the past as in wearing Philo's Chloe and Celine garments already brings nostalgia.

[@PatriciaMaisl]

Thank you for this video. I love the format so hope you will do other ones. Take care

[@emma-iq3qs]

love this format, hopefully you'll keep doing it!

[@greenmelon13]

I really liked this video, its different to the lives, and allows for different content to be discussed in comparison to the lives. Also introducing us to fashion journalist who we can read more on later.

[@AF_Venice]

Would love to see more videos like that! Very helpful

[@basicbaroque]

I'm a bit salty, but it's because I don't have enough money to be a customer. She knows her client, and I don't think they want to hear, "I charge this amount because they'll buy it." I do want to see how her brand evolves. There's been a lot of talk about overproduction within fashion, so it's an interesting idea to only make enough for what people will buy. Although, I have doubts about that, since LVMH is involved.

[@thelastdragon8021]

I appreciate this video and would love to see more like it

[@onelove762]

What are your thoughts on the poor customer service of her brand and her reaction about it that is mentioned in the article?

[@QueenOyinkan]

Don't think I've ever been this early! Heyy Ayo!

[@FashionRoadman]

Heyy!

[@coritellastory]

Love your passion and knowledge that you pair with the critique. Idk why she would put that much truth on the table. Image is mystical and must stay that way.

[@imaneightiesbaby]

Excellent video! Really informed me about the industry (had NO idea about Jil Sander being forced out of her company like she's Dame Dash, for example). Keep up the great work!👏🏽

[@culture88]

I love this video. I enjoyed and agree with your review of the NYT article. I also think that that Phoebe's idea of the "real and pragmatic" is itself based in a type of mythology or storytelling, hence the Philofiles. Those women of a certain socio-economic class, outlook, educational background, and they can afford it.

[@keelynoxleymitchell]

Love this content! Yes to more!! ❤️❤️❤️

[@Viviano_Magami]

Alessandro michele going to valentino.

[@lostfutures9482]

Good video

[@estellecmr]

Very interesting video, thank you for always bringing high quality content :)

[@WilliamHHolla2009]

i liked how insightful this was

[@verito98]

always love your insights

[@yansomade]

of topic but i think could be (enriquecedor spanish) The impact of historical events in fashion obveusly there is the uk and vivien westwood but what about the could war and demna, the hip hop and black peoples music (jazz arnb soul) on luxury brand. the perception of cool and the impact of chicano culture in latam and music and fashion.

[@JLeSage-cj2nu]

Great video my fashionable brother ❤❤❤

[@Amanda-ju4xg]

She didn’t say “no one cares about narrative” read the words

[@purpleswag2313]

I’m over brands sending out boring clothes with an over the top stage or clear floor to tell a story. No doubt brands are cutting corners so bad but it’s expected to be priced at her competitors.

[@Happinc]

Philo pricing is just blatant elitism… it’s certainly not democratic… but then I suppose, what big fashion brand is??? Look at The Row & the ridiculous pricing for their so called “perfect T shirt”… they are honestly having a laugh at the gullible consumer’s expense…What I wish for is that a clever designer, perhaps like Philo with her great reputation would blow all this consumerism apart & make one of one pieces that may inspire a bidding war & reach stratospheric prices to interrogate what quality is and what it should cost, or perhaps becoming a made to order brand to eliminate waste… something ground breaking would have been good!🧐I would welcome a designer like her really jumping off the treadmill & trying to educate the masses about the whole polluting nature of the business of fashion, and I don’t just mean the appalling physical pollution but also the mental pollution of it… All she is doing is what has created this mess in the first place, creating an obsessive desire for something material that is actually really cheap to manufacture, like her £3200 plated mum necklace, for example, yes it sold out but sadly not due to its quality? I cannot find any value there whatsoever! 🤦🏻‍♀️😵‍💫At some point we all need to wake up to the huge mind manipulation that is being perpetrated by these big fashion businesses. Prices go up and quality goes backwards… it’s pretty morally disgusting.

[@yellowbags]

It's so wild that there a so little brands that are headed by women and designed by women for women. I don't need the storytelling either. The prices are crazy and I can't afford the clothes, but the philosophy of this brand really appeals to me.

[@kyrectx2]

i’d argue that phoebe philo customers do care about narrative - her life story is the narrative she has a “finite” customer base of her philophites that love *her*, and she makes clothes for that customer right now

[@leewatkins6577]

Yes very intresting take off approche to your veiw on the structure of fashion and its component's and player's (informative, ) thank you. Top Cat Roadman ^~~~^ = * • * =

[@beaudenonkenza5391]

Love it

[@johnathanguo5009]

I want to offer a perspective from having worked with production costs, and I think the heavy disagreement with Philo's statement on how certain quality comes at a certain price is being misconstrued. Yes there are pieces for 20k, but some of those pieces are hand tufted, embroidered, painted pieces in exquisite materials. I can certify that at a more standard product offering like sweaters and suiting, her price point is perfectly aligned with the market and with standard markups for the production costs. The brand I work with produces some blazers that cost 400-500 euros alone just to produce (so before any wholesale and retail markups)... I imagine the smaller scale of production + her reputation for exacting standards of quality mean that her production costs for blazers is higher.. Even if there is a markup like all brands, there is a necessary amount to mark up just to break even when you calculate risk of not selling the pieces.

[@jashleyyy]

✨First comment✨

[@bossgirlvintage3297]

The other day on your instagram, you criticised Annie Leibovitz for not knowing how to photograph black people because you thought the edit on the photo wasn't a true representation of what a black person's skin looks like. The colour grade on the photo looked similar to the colour grade on your skin in this video. Doesn't that make you a hypocrite Mr Fashion Roadman? Why criticise someone for something that you cannot do any better at, instead of analysing her work from an artistic perspective and try to understand why she chose that colour grade for her art, because I am sure the model didn't complain.

[@joaoraphaelrodrigues2015]

"Phoebe Philo doesnt care what you think" okay RUDE!

[@remingtonellington9043]

This

[@ДубовыеЛеса]

I completly gree with her. As a customer I dont care about this stupid stick about story telling it's just marketing. And I just want a nice clothes.

[@remingtonellington9043]

Was

[@michaelkorg3623]

firtht

[@ariana9941]

bro cant spell fisrt

[@culture88]

Q: How many times have I watched this video? A: Yes.

[@FakherDeNamek]

Another great video, really like your insights

[@JanGadia]

And i don’t care what Phoebe Philo thinks lmao

[@yessenya6450]

Would look forward to more of this content. ✨️

[@JerushaCouture]

Absolutely brilliant babe, I will forever be obsessed with her linear life, my Fashion label is so avant-garde and over the top that Love her simplicity.

[@rabbitrichards3010]

thanks for this ! i don't currently have much access to fashion reporting so i really appreciate you going through articles like this.

[@inetimidamian-okoro4458]

where can i find fashion articles to read on (any recommendations)

[@alileeisonethebridge]

and we don't care about her collections lol

[@Kevinciano577]

love the format, should keep it going

[@SophiaConstantinou-kp3kw]

Please do more!!!

[@dellplummer5173]

This is great.. please do more...love you to do an analysis of Rick Owens show notes...etc. There is endless material for your brilliant fashion brain to dissect. This could be the beginning of something huge, definitely another book. Much love dell Plummer. (Long time fan.)

[@patsteimer1860]

I dunno. A little bit of fantasy and story behind a collection makes everything a little more interesting. But I also appreciate her point of view. It’s very much on brand for her. Straight forward. Minimal fuss. But a little fantasy is nice too lol

[@kafiwilson]

I read this... Love it

[@Neema150]

Yes, I would love more programs like this one from you. It was very informative I loved it.❤

[@1984schizosturm]

please help, what kind of jacket is she wearing? mI don't think its her design, is it?

[@yoo6574]

Really enjoyed this video love hearing you opinions on the business of fashion. would love more of these!!

[@annav6481]

Enjoyed this breakdown would love to see more, thank you!

[@M1chaelbd_]

Really enjoyed this video and breakdown! 🔥

[@etoufee21]

Are you reviewing the Dior Scarves, book?

[@BobRoberts2504]

This video is great. More of this, alongside your livestreams.

[@luci-e6b]

loved this new format!! looking forward for more :)

[@slimnics]

whats the go to for menswear articles?

[@VictorCrv]

Love this content!

[@remingtonellington9043]

Please do more!

[@remingtonellington9043]

Amazing

[@gobyfish1399]

That is the true statement - not sexualizing the woman, but not denying she is a woman either. The Row take note, your man repeller clothes do not sexualize women and deny she's a woman. Phoebe is hitting the sweet spot better.

[@mvrw8998]

That take is just as lacking in nuance as those who say women’s clothing can’t be both sexy and empowering. Not even a big fan of the row but that’s a poor understanding of what they’re doing.

[@kikiagbor]

Also no need to call out another brand in order to validate your point

[@AR-cf9di]

If she doesn’t care about the story then she would outsource her fashion items to China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, rather than let’s say Italy, France, or Japan. Storytelling is woven in luxury fashion in every parts of it. From obvious creative direction and marketing to something that seems objective like manufacturing, logistics and business administration

[@jonnyfendi2003]

you call that "storytelling"??? Thats called manufacturing!! SMH

[@carmengrauwels]

Where are the clothes made? Uk, Europe, Azië? Bc that makes a huge difference, also her disission to keep the collections small (yes the data) but buying smaller amounts of fabrics will lifts up the prices in buying fabrics and than selling the finished products. Can they be less expensive? Absolutely 💯 & than she still would make a huge amount of profit. Have to say from the first drop to now the last one: Phoebe Philo is nailing it!! Every piece, from clothing to accessory are 😘👌🏻 ✌🏻🪻

[@VioletFem]

I’m really enjoying this format of videos because you are very knowledgeable about the fashion industry.