The 5 Miter Saw Mistakes That Beginners Make!!!(some Pros as well)

[@Aubreykrendale]

Good, quick and informative. Didn't make 9 minutes into 25 like others on KZbin. Thanks.

[@clickster1883]

That mod to the miter saw stand is genius!

[@mikethomas3069]

I said the same thing mental note .

[@MsSpktrout]

I’ve been teaching my nephew how to use power tools by building storage, and shelves, and frames for his bedroom since my BIL died by suicide last year. Been watching KZbin to remember safety issues to go over with him. Love your video! Tomorrow we’re working with my miter & the stand mod is genius! Wish I had seen this years ago before I bought an expensive stand. :)

[@maxsparks5183]

What’s a “bil”?

[@aoe2geek]

@@maxsparks5183 BIL stands for brother in law

[@hritikbudhan7305]

@@maxsparks5183Brother in Law. Also my condolences @MsSpktrout

[@TaiChiPlay]

Great advice! However I use a dust mask all the time for any cutting (miter, table, circle, etc ). Lungs are not chimneys and are too important to screw around with. Perhaps you might mention about how to use stop blocks with a miter saw and avoiding kickback, and safely cutting short pieces..

[@EricSchwartz-sk8id]

I watched the dust collection video first and made your suggested changes to my saw. Now with this video you've saved me some $$$ (USD) on a stand. Sheer genius. Thank you and keep up the good works!

[@user-hm5zb1qn6g]

Great demo of checking and adjusting the squareness of the blade. Thanks for that tip!

[@robertsmith3518]

I found that letting the blade come to a completel stop before raising the blade will improve your quality. I also found the WEN blades are great throw away blades ,12x80 are around $20.00 . One time use ,mine lest about 4 months and it’s toast .Great video

[@saltydroog854]

I agree about the dust collection. I also think there is a nuanced quality of cut improvement from using good dust collection...maybe not so much from the miter saw, but with a table saw and a track saw for sure. Having an extractor pull the dust away from the cut makes an albeit small, but noticeable difference in the cut quality. I have X2 CT Midis dedicated to each my SawStop JSS and my Kapex, and a CT 26 (with the boom arm) dedicated to my MFT table. I also have CTVA20 separators for each. so I can really get 8-10x the life out of the bags.

[@billm.8220]

The first thing I did when I set up my saw was calibrate it. Made sure it was nice, square & true. Makes a WORLD of difference in the cuts !!

[@Verwoehnaroma65]

Thanks for the Info. Received such a saw quite a while ago but couldn't ever use it due to my very limited space. Now I'm moving into a bigger place and want to use the Miter Saw as a steady tool for cutting wood as it's way easier than using a handheld circular saw or even electric jigsaw. Great ideas to adjust the saw, fence and blade. Thanks again. And greetings from Germany

[@fisher-of-men1547]

Simple & exact explanation on miter box setup & care !! I've used my Dewalt miter for years & take the same steps to calibrate often. I will be looking into the "switch" outlet that fires up the shop vac when the saw is started. Thanks for the information, I'm sure it will be very helpful for anyone looking to setup a wood shop. David WoodWorking Made Simpler Ada, MI

[@weswest8666]

Another beginner tip I learned as a new miter saw owner is making sure your saw is getting enough AMPERAGE. I have the same saw in the video and it is 15 Amps, a normal house outlet is 15 Amps but doesn’t provide enough current, you can even hear the saw speed degrade. I found myself having to run beefy extension cords from the kitchen to operate my saw since most kitchen outlets are 20 amp circuits.

[@russellhammond371]

Thanks for the tips! I'm definitely going to mount the saw to a workbench I just built and build some wings to match the height of the fence.

[@Sol-hl2rj]

Very good tips! Nice to se you doing carpentrywoodtoolstuff again! Although not every miter saw comes with a poor blade. As you showed at the last tip (#1) which is very important.. you can benefit by cutting slow and steady to get a much finer cut with a blade with less tooth count. Of course, a fine tooth blade for finishing is always best for trim and finer woodworking.

[@PhilipMurray-d3k]

I was more excited seeing your new video pop in to my feed than I was for the latest episode of masters of the air.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

🍻thanks for watching

[@snakesonn]

you're my hero

[@jamespeters066]

What's wrong with the Diablo blades?

[@wulf67]

Nothing. They probably just won't pay him anything for the affiliate link.

[@jamespeters066]

@@wulf67 Touche lol

[@BlindGuy39]

I picked up a stand on Amazon for 70euros with extension arms that have adjustable rollers at the ends.. its brilliant and at a fantastic price.. thanks for the tips 👍🏻

[@nanchahn7520]

When you do a cut, should you stand the board up and cut down the thinner side? Also should I let the blade stop b4 pulling away from project?

[@Fraxter3813]

I watched your video on filling nail holes in wood. My contractor installed baseboards that he purchased already primed. But, of course, he left the job without filling in any of the holes…. Or miter gaps, or… so, I used the Elmers wood filler that is yellowish in color. (I didn’t know there was a white version until today, thank you for that…..) but once I have it sanded, and I am ready to paint, do I need to prime the areas that were filled even though the wood was already primed? I’m thinking yes. If I do, do I prime over just the areas that were filled or do I prime the entire baseboard? And, since they’re installed, spray primer is not as easy. Do you have a recommended primer for this application? I appreciate your advice and guidance!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Have a look at your trim paint, it could be self priming. Try a bit and see how it looks, I’m sure it would cover with two coats.

[@billm.8220]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter 2 coats definitely does the job.

[@Fraxter3813]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter Thank you!! I appreciate the help.

[@thereallizmill]

I was so stupid about miter saws 9 minutes ago. Outstanding tips, thank you!

[@blondechineez1948]

Me too! lol

[@hobbyfanatix]

What about a Bauer saw blade? Any experience with those?

[@gnic76]

I use a Oshlun 60 tooth, 5 deg neg hook on my Radial arm saw, no issues with the cuts. An Avanti pro 80 tooth on my miter saw. I like those out tables you made.

[@googi577]

Awesome video for a beginner such as myself. A safety pro tips video would be great as well - especially for when cuitting small pieces of baseboard.

[@paulmaguire3594]

This vid is incredibly clear and helpful. Thank you for making it.

[@TheClosetFloor]

What are your thoughts on CMT blades?

[@Ryan-rn1mi]

Do you have plans or a video for making the plywood wings for the stand?

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Not at the moment- I thought I talked about the wings in this video? I’m not sure an in depth look at making them would be worth while.

[@Minimal444]

Number 1 mistake is buying a non sliding miter saw.

[@caseyxiang]

Yup. I bought a sliding one.

[@blueyedream]

Could you explain why? I'm in the market for my first, so genuinely curious

[@Minimal444]

​@@blueyedream Well first off all it can cut more than regular, so you can work with bigger materials, but the main reason is if say you are working with a quite strong material like laminate or even mdf, you are plunging your blade into that material, when you plunge the blade into material it faces much more resistance and becomes dull fast, it also "wobbles" leading to a worse cut. And it also becomes quite dangerous. Just try to plunge a circular saw into material and you will see. The blade should slide through material with least resistance. With circular saw for example the least resistance is achieved by setting the blade to max depth, so the distance of the blade going through material would be the shortest, because of the angle of the blade teeth entering the material. That's why you will cut faster with circular saw set to max depth than if you set it to less. But if you set it to max depth, there will be more chipping.

[@Minimal444]

@@blueyedream found a video that pretty much explains it called "Which Miter Saw is better Sliding vs Fixed"

[@blueyedream]

@@Minimal444 Thanks. Appreciate the response and information.

[@ioliv31]

I love the modified miter saw stand. Did you need to buy special bolts to attach the scrap wood? Are they standard size? I'm trying to figure out if this would work with my Ryobi miter saw.

[@merpp4073]

diablo blades have always worked perfect for me. 10 years flooring always have a diablo on my table and miter saw

[@southern04man]

I been a carpenter for over 30 years. Diablo is a decent blade. But him comparing Oshlun to Forrest? He's definitely a rookie. A chop master is a game changer.

[@dirtyoledog519]

i have reccorended your channel to many friends

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thank you🍻

[@galenperry4606]

That was a great video. To the point and great tips for everyone. Well done.

[@biedawo]

The factory blade on my makita was unusually good compared to most stock blades. Good summary. - alignment is not a one-time thing. (coming back to a saw after some time and assuming it is square is a recipe for slightly off cuts) - for #1 I thought you'd also object to allowing the blade to come back up while still spinning

[@wulf67]

Now let's talk about you getting a sacrificial fence and a zero-clearance insert to prevent tear-out on expensive hardwood trim.

[@jerrystark6766]

Excellent advice all around. 👍👍

[@CurtisC-e5c]

I have watched a lot of your videos. Great information. I haves learned so much. Thanks for doing all your videos.

[@lindseyhinck6298]

47 years of sucking dust on countless jobs and trying to train newbies I gotta agree with almost everything you said. I’d like to add something I’ve witnessed beginners do. Trying to align the blade perfectly with there mark and starting the saw while it’s just barely above the material when the saw torques up it pitch’s down jamming the blade hard. Also beveling the saw without sliding the fence back. Over the years I’ve tried just about every blade made and the old ham blades are an excellent value they aren’t aseptic good as a Forest ChopMaster. That being said I don’t use them for work because they’re just to dam expensive especially when some sparky or plumbers decide to use your saw for just a cut or two with some old ass 2 by material covered in dirt and full of bent nails. Sorry don’t cut when ya ruin a 200$ blade. The Oldham, CMT industrial, the Frued industrial, and Tenyru are all good blades and reasonably priced there just not as good as Forest. Who also have the greatest sharpening service ever. Thanks for the post.

[@harvestmaid5669]

I have a question about furnace.....they put furnace lying down..under small house. It has cold vents next to ceiling. I live in mi. Blows cold.air mostly....

[@schyouknowwho2946]

Great video! Which model saw are you using?

[@jakelilevjen9766]

Not all Dewalts are created equal. Wish I had checked mine like you demonstrated. The fence halves are not coplanar, and it drives me nuts. I finish a cut on a long piece, and can just feel the finish piece slide back ever so slightly. Thinking I am going to have to build a sacrificial fence that I can shim.

[@LarsLiden]

Would love a link to the air quality monitor too!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

I will put it up later on today.

[@LarsLiden]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter Thank you!

[@Bshwag]

I have used oshlun and they aren't bad but I much prefer CMT orange/chrome blades. Cheap but last longer

[@warrenwerks]

Big fan of the cmt blades too. Good value and cut quality. I do wish they stayed sharp a little longer but you really can’t beat them for the price

[@ronh5623]

Most videos suggest that after the cut, keep blade down until it stops for safety. Is that a good idea?

[@TheRayCaruso]

Great tip on the extra platform on the stand wings.

[@michaeldebiasse8458]

Great information, thanks for taking the time to share with us!

[@peterbarlow8912]

My old Dewalt 708 made almost no improvement when I put a vacuum on the dust bag port. The aftermarket has tents etc. to help but chop saws are very messy

[@ypaulbrown]

Great Content.....especially the last segment......cheers from Florida, Paul

[@jaimecastells4283]

Good info, but I would be happier if you had added info about how to tweak the settings that you only checked in this video. Especially, what do I do if the bed of my saw is "gappy" as you put it?

[@dougiesmostamazingchannel]

Great video with great advice.

[@PerfectImperfections65]

Your pop up link to the dust collection mod didn't show up in the vid... did I miss it?

[@rogerlill]

Great pro tips, especially the demonstration of how to cut your thumb off.

[@edgararcega3046]

Hello Sir. Im new to using a miter saw and was wondering if you can give me some advice. I have a ryobi 10" 18v sliding compound miter saw that is struggling making cuts on a 2x4 at a 45° angle. Even when making the cut slowly it has a very hard time. I even switched out the stock 40 tooth blade with a diablo 60 tooth 10 inch "combination" blade and i am still having the same problem. Am inusing the wrong blade? Is the ryobi machine just not powerful enough even though i am running it with a 18v one+ battery? I know ryobi makes the better one+ hp batteries but if power is not the issue i would rather not spend the extra money on better batteries if i am still going to have the same issue.

[@ilive4livemusic]

Excellent collection of tips

[@michaela3330]

Great video! Any chance someone has a240v Vacuum switch link?😢

[@Fictitious_Character]

That order style Midi looks like it has put in work.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

No doubt It’s been one of my best tools

[@T_Jonesy]

Please make a detailed video about the miter saw wings you made.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Will do

[@georgedavall9449]

Good Video all in all. Ummm, @08:32 I have to say the head needs to stay down after the cut, and trigger released! I have gotten, and am sure to get, pushback on this: Cutting dimensional lumber that way most of the time is OK. Cutting trim and smaller/ thinner boards not so much. I have used miter saws for over 25 years, and have blades catch the cut offs and fling them at 190 MPH! I have seen ‘rookies’ raising the head at the same time releasing the trigger, which is certain recipe for disaster. It doesn’t take much for that blade to ‘catch’ the material and either send it flying, or to pull or twist the material. Some will argue it’s a waste of time, but what price safety? Most of the time a person will get by with no problem, but it only takes that one time. I have watched a few Valid Carpentry/ Woodworking Channels ( I will not call them out by name ) that cut and keep the head down after the cut. I have been injured and I’ve seen others get injured, and it can happen to anyone. Please work safely. Your Channel has a lot of great and worthwhile content, and I’ve picked up some good tips from You. Please take my comment as a concern for safety. 👍

[@sral128]

Top content! Thank you

[@hmudesign]

Your fence way off at 4:25 hahah… work of art.

[@scottss213]

I once read you can't change your end date but you can change the quality of life. Great tips

[@ShanePhillips-mv7bi]

To cut molding proply the saw has to be on angle as well for near invisable joins think its 37.5 lean

[@Engelhafen]

Yeah I do fine on the ground - not going to pay for a whole setup for a few trims

[@LV-lb7dt]

thank you , learned alot

[@rpaasse6453]

Great tips, tnx !!

[@RandyK1ng]

I have a sliding compound miter and a pro once told me to (as you said) wait for full speed on blade, but then make a top score on the wood with the slide, then come back and finish the cut with a plunge in front and push the blade to the back. Comments?

[@ILikeCatsMoreThanILikeYou]

Depending on if it's finish side up or down. This is good advice.

[@mariav1274]

🇦🇺 Great tips. Have a great weekend.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Cheers down under🍻

[@northumbriabushcraft1208]

I'm a beginner and noticed something. I'd watched a fair few videos showing beginners how to use the mitre saw and a few of them said to let the blade stop spinning before you raise the saw back up to stop tear out but you didnt do this, is this a myth? Or did you forget? I'm new and want to do stuff right Great video though, i didnt know to check the fence to see if it was square, just assumed it would be that way from the manufacturer at DeWalt prices 😂

[@jimcampbell5557]

Just a general FYI about dust masks. If you have a beard of any length, even stubble you may as well not use a mask. The hair on your face holds the seal of the mask away from your face and all of the small particles that could do you harm easily pass through the gap. Dust collection and working in a well ventilated area is the right solution. Also, if you use them an N-95 or N-100 masks are the only ones you should purchase, the rest are just cosmetic and do not remove the smaller particles.

[@bubuli]

A lot of these can be avoided by just buying a Festool Miter Saw. Yes, I know I'm gonna be _that_ guy...but hear me out. I am just a hobbyist but even I was able to see the difference between a Dewalt (I have a similar one you have here) and the Festool in terms of operation and quality of cut: the dust collection of the Festool is unmatched to this day, the adjustability and precision is almost magic and very intuitive to use...and last but not least: its stock blade is actually pretty good all-rounder; i didn't have to purchase a separate blade for finishing cuts. It's expensive and I cried having to spend that much money on a miter saw and a dust collection system when I embarked on the project of replacing my 2nd floor carpeting with hardwood...but after i finished that project I have ZERO regrets. Especially with the awesome dust collection, I didn't have to do my cutting outside saving me so much time allowing me to finish my project sooner! 10/10 i would buy again.

[@robertsmith3518]

When you show your self using a miter saw on the floor ,it speaks for the mindset of the user .i believe I am reluctantly giving up my seat . Next

[@geraldinefields1730]

Thank you.

[@davidwostrel]

If you're doing framing, what is wrong with putting some speed in there? Cut quality doesn't matter getting that ish done matters

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Burns out your saw.

[@sarinhighwind]

Why are we avoiding the diablos? They are pretty nice for the price.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

I’ve had horrible luck with the diablos, always seem to get a warped blade or a snagged tooth. I would spend the extra money on the Freud Industrial.

[@markb42569]

Awesome video. Thanks.

[@luctoulouse]

Is that a Bob Ross lego figure? Nice!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

You know it!

[@Hoochiemamawrangler]

I use Diablo blades all the time with great results.

[@Matt_Aquila]

Mistake #6: Not checking the fence is safely withdrawn when using a tight tilt and bevel angle. Metal will fly!

[@jonmitchell7626]

@matt_aquilla Just did exactly what you’re talking about. 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@sabregunner1]

why avoid the diablo blades?

[@judithrob1591]

Woodworking Beginner: New - Update. This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Read this first before you buying a miter saw! It's better to know than not to know. Important to know if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. First option: handle vertical positioned above the saw blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact/ Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. (test is completed). Conclusion: Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Remember this, the test is only about torsion and nothing else how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing, you better not go for that. (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner... P.S. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.

[@rswind1964]

great info and simple thanks

[@j.coward3738]

Just here to comment on the thumbnail. "#2 could save your life" with no further context needed . . . I agree

[@therealmfwic9503]

Side note. The new host on “Blown Away” looks like he could be your twin brother. Every time I watch the show I think of you. lol random thpught

[@josephg.3370]

Thank you!

[@62schmidt]

you didn't mention building a better dust port, to improve funneling it

[@noelv1976]

Ahh... I didn't fully inspect my saw. But still works... woohoo!!

[@WanJae42]

I learned something!

[@diabolox1272]

Damn ! i didn't know about the blade..... I did all my doors with the standard one

[@drouleau]

Just checked the fence on my DeWalt miter saw. Like the cast iron top of my table saw, it's not flat/level so getting a perfect 90 degree angle isn't happening. At least my tools are consistent.

[@jlr1487]

I'm surprised about tip #1, once the board is cut, you didn't released the trigger and wait for complete stop before raising the blade back up. Imagine ripping a board on the table saw; after the cut, you wouldn't pull the board back your way against the spinning blade...

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Keep it smooth coming up as well and the spinning blade isn’t an issue. Pulling a board back through a spinning table saw blade is completely different.

[@jlr1487]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter Lets agree to disagree 😄 As for the DW saws, I do agree 100% they are amazingly well built.

[@ravenheart1439]

Yeah I'm not paying 218 bucks for a blade...ever... ridiculous price where a 60 dollar blade will do....just breezin through and that price stopped me in my tracks lol...I'm surprised they sell any blades at all...

[@Jackman8594]

He gave several examples of much better blades at a reasonable price??

[@RoyHoy]

$60 adds up

[@ravenheart1439]

Not if you sharpen them, you get a lot of miles out of a 60 dollar blade, least I do ..

[@shawnr771]

I found two brand new 60 tooth blades in the package at a yard sale. $20 never opened. The gentlemen selling them was retired and he said he could no longer do woodworking because his hands were not steady. Lots of people over bought and never used. I dont use my saw alot so with a little care they will last me awhile.

[@bcrock8655]

Diwablo 😅. Actually, I've had very good results with them.

[@therealmfwic9503]

The fence on my dewalt mitre saw is awful. Wish I would have realized that in time.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

It’s actually very common from even saws from the same store to have wildly different level of craftsmanship

[@AmericaninBrazilWoodworking]

great videos, New SUBSCRIBER

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thank you🍻

[@edwardr1250]

Big mistake to rely on the detents for fine work, even if you adjusted them. For whatever reason, they do not keep their set and being set to 90 does not necessarily equate to correctness on the other detent angles. I always use a protractor or other gauge (Woodpeckers has a nice one with most common angles) to set the blade for my cut. I turned to this method after having to repeatedly re-set the detents time-and-again, only to find them off at some other angle.

[@Zakarman43]

Why should we avoid Diablo?

[@Rob-bz8ig]

Hello Bob

[@raggarex]

As a former electrician who has asked to use carpenters saws, I can say: - I have learned (read: been schooled on) how to use a saw properly. - I learned to get my "own damn saw" since "tell your boss to buy you a saw" was never going to work.

[@frankryan2505]

I knew a carpenter/cabinet maker about 20 years ago (family friend who i worked alongside occasionally) A master craftsman who passed away from something easily preventable, he was pretty open about the doctors opinion,decades of inhaling sawdust will fuck you up (he never swore though being a lay preacher,its funny cos i always held my cursing in company for that reason) Ill never forget the work he did for me when i was renovating, custom made skirting,dado and picture rails, i would struggle hard to find that quality these days.

[@robertstewart9658]

Roller stands are less than $20 at Harbor Freight; great investment if you don't have the room for a larger stand.

[@Pete.Ty1]

👍👍👍.Thank you

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks buddy🍻

[@mrbigberd]

I'd add zero clearance tape to that list.