DR Field and Brush Cutter: Maintenance, Cutting Trees, and Fighting Spiders -The Garage Engineer

Today on The Garage Engineer, we continue working on our DR Field and Brush Cutter. We perform some duly needed maintenance, mow over some trees, and battle a Joro spider.
Here are the links to the other videos that we talked about in the video.
DR Field and Brush: Can We Save It? • Can We Save It? Origin...
Adjustable Grinder Nut Removal Tool • Make Your Own Adjustib...
7.5 Boat Build “Farrah Belle” Playlist • 7.5 foot Boat Build wi...
We have a new sponsor.
Starbond.com is giving TGE views 10% off orders. USE PROMO CODE: TGE
Link to website bit.ly/3lcVHCB
Help support making at The Garage Engineer Workshop,www.TheGarageEngineer.com, by shopping through our new Amazon store front. Listed there is all the tools, materials, and items we like to use in the shop.
www.amazon.com/shop/thegarageengineer
There is no additional cost to you when you make purchases. This helps The Garage Engineer channel make more cool projects to share.
Subscribing to TheGarageEngineer KZbin channel is the best compliment you can give, bit.ly/2slSG9V
✦TOOLS and MATERIALS LIST:✦
List of all tools and supplies we use in the shop:
The Garage Engineer Shop List
www.amazon.com/shop/thegrageengineer
Makita Battery adaptor for 18v Dewalt tools amzn.to/3EYJfxf
✦Everyday Tools✦
Pouch Magnogrip 9-Pocket amzn.to/2QBTIqH
RevMark variety pack markers amzn.to/2weAa1U
Combination Square 6” amzn.to/39wJPoj
Pentel Drafting Mechanical Pencil amzn.to/2F9Hal3
Stanley 33-115 10 Foot Tape measure amzn.to/2QeiE8x
Pocket notebook amzn.to/2Fc3AC9
Leatherman Skeletool amzn.to/2rMwl5t
Wireless earbuds with Active Noise Cancelling amzn.to/387PeBh
Trail47.com ‘Wood Balm’ trail47.com/shop
✦EVERYDAY CARRY✦
Leatherman - Skeletool Multitool amzn.to/2Hwf1Hd
LUMINTOP ToolAAA flashlight - amzn.to/2tZUuCY
Keychain Pocket Clip - amzn.to/2Ht9ZLF
Stanley 12' tape measure - amzn.to/2NWTtVx
Wireless earbuds with Active Noise Cancelling amzn.to/387PeBh
The best advice I can to give is ABC… “Always be Creating!”
✦FOLLOW ME:✦
Instagram: thegarageengineer
Facebook: TheGarageEngineer
KZbin: bit.ly/2pvbuwv (thegarageengineer)
Website HQ: www.thegarageengineer.com
MUSIC: Thank you to. . .
Intro “Hatcher” by Halima Ahkdar
Channel Chasing - Spazz Cardigan Support by RFM - NCM: • Video for providing the post credit music

[@kirtadams439]

I like your squeeze primer. I do the same thing.

[@douglasengle2704]

On the 1990 DR brush mower I used I found the drive axle pipe was very rough inside causing the drive axle to rub. I used a car brake cylinder hone and that made a huge difference in cleaning up the inside of the axle pipe. With fresh grease it was much easier to push and PULL the mower backwards without that extra drag. The brush mower will not have much of a life for its blade drive belt. The setup is only really rated to about 3/4 horsepower and then there is a quarter turn on it. You do HAVE to use the drive belt that is meant for this mower. You can not use higher horsepower belts because the stronger cord structure will not flex in a quarter turn drive configuration. It will just break the cords. Although the blade belt is greatly over stressed when it gets impossible for a blade belt to say on and its still relatively new (2-3 hours of use) there is the likelihood that the brace from the engine to the blade belt support has cracked or become loose. What happens is without the support fully working anytime the blade encounters high stress the belt tension pulls the pulley sheaves out of their alignment causing the belt to roll off the sleeves. A the belt in a belt drive system is pulled towards the higher tension edge of the belt because it gets the most traction. You can see the process on industrial and farm belt drive systems from 100 years ago. The belt seeks the larger size diameter on the pulley. The way to have a quarter turn drive belt system auto align its belt is for both the edges of the belt to trace the exact same distance. This makes the biggest difference in keeping the belt on the sheaves on the slack side of the belt because the tension side of the belt is pulled onto the sheave and doesn't free flow like the slack side does. The way the side-to-side tension across the belt is adjusted is by rotation the engine around its vertical axle. I don't think there is an adjustment on the mower to allow that. I changed the sheaves on my brush mower to larger diameters to allow more horsepower transfer and that required turning the engine adjust the side-to-side belt tension. I do believe that when I calculated the stock pulley setup the side-to-side tension was not equal distances and the engine would have needed to be more rotated to achieve proper side-to-side belt tension. The problem with rotating the engine more was that it upset the alignment of the mower's self propelled belt that was already at a slight angle. The self propel belt is not very picky and you can likely use a higher cord strength belt, but you can't do that with the quarter turn drive belt! The quarter turn belt drive has to use a fractional horsepower belt because the cords on a higher horsepower belts will break in order to conform to the quarter turn path. The fractional horsepower belts have an "L" in the belt labeling. Best just get the belt from DR. Nobody makes V-belts for a quarter turn drive setup so its a special function that DR has discovered works for a a specific belt. If you can get 2 - 3 hours out of a blade drive belt that is probably about right for heavy use. A lot of the cutting on these brush mowers is actually fairly light duty with the momentum of the blade doing the frequent, but not continues heavy cut. Thank you for sharing the video.

[@TheGarageEngineer]

Thanks for the great info. I will check out the items you wrote about. Thanks for watching.

[@everybodysucks6509]

Just get a link belt and all your problems are over and done with. They're a bit expensive but I've been running one for 2 years on my Gen. 1 D.R. mower and I'm certain it will never break.

[@stephendaniel168]

Nice video. I got one too I love using. It’s got a fuel line leak that I’m fixing before this season.

[@TheGarageEngineer]

Good luck!

[@erogel4171]

so much easier to use than the new models in a lot of situatiions

[@TheGarageEngineer]

Fun to work on. Easy to get to everything. Thanks for watching.

[@OregonOldTimer]

Got mine running. Also threw drive belt. All I had to do was take some slack out of the engagement chain. Now it stays on.

[@debrarodriguez5771]

Does anyone know what size belts that it takes I have one it's only got one belt I don't think it belongs where it's at

[@debrarodriguez5771]

I have a nineteen eighty-nine field and brush doctor do you know what size belt it takes

[@TheGarageEngineer]

good call. I did that and it worked. I still need to change the belts. but Ill probable wait until they break, then replace them.

[@TheGarageEngineer]

I have not researched them yet but if you can the tech line for the DR company, they will help you. I might have to do that soon.

[@debrarodriguez5771]

@@TheGarageEngineer thank you for getting back to me.

[@sidrojoe]

He gaulded the threads on the spindle, it is a left handed thread.

[@TheGarageEngineer]

.

[@sidrojoe]

@@TheGarageEngineer I did the same thing.

[@petercollin5670]

Does Georgia have pine trees that drop those enormous cones?

[@TheGarageEngineer]

Not in my area. We have the medium size one.

[@stephendaniel168]

I’m not sure if that blade is original. It looks lighter and the one on mine is reversible. And I see your figuring out that it’s reverse threaded. Haha. I did that too. Haha.

[@TheGarageEngineer]

thanks for watching!!!!

[@Venomrs4]

I wouldn’t use bar and chain oil for engine oil. It has different additives and properties. It’s simply not designed for it. Check out Project Farm’s test using bar and chain oil instead of engine oil in a mower engine. More foaming and more wear and tear when using bar / chain oil instead of engine oil.

[@TheGarageEngineer]

thanks for the recommendation.

[@everybodysucks6509]

I know this video is ancient but are you serious? Bar and chain oil is for a chainsaw BAR AND CHAIN, not motors

[@terryluther9235]

Never take any material off the back of the blade!

[@TheGarageEngineer]

Ehh?

[@AminurRahman-tj1ih]

A

[@TheGarageEngineer]

👍👍🙏🙏