HOW to CLIMB sketchy 5.12 trad in Yosemite - BETA BREAKDOWN Ep. 1

[@Rycamcam]

Man, this has got to be the best trad video I've seen. It's super helpful to see your thought process during a trad climb

[@marksd5650]

I applaud the decision you made to re-climb. I started climbing when I was six (back in ‘62) and we top roped a lot, then we learned to lead 5.5 and 5.7….and so on 8, 9 10…gaining experience in a difficulty realm that made sense. I think lots of people train at gyms, and then wonder how to transition to actual rock. 🤣 That was an instructive video; I’ve appreciated every video of yours I’ve watched. Best Regards

[@GravityLabz]

Thanks Mark! I plan to make more instructional videos in the future that still include a bit of entertainment.

[@thisisgettingold]

The gyms are making people better outdoors, although I get your point on the confusion on transition. My 16 year old son's first leads were 5.8 and he was able to on sight a 5.11c with a roof problem on top rope first try. If we hadn't spend months and months in the gym before we went outdoors I am sure his outdoor progression wouldn't have been so amazing. So I do get your point but these kids growing up in gyms are going to be putting up 5.16s in a few years. It's wild.

[@BowlineDandy]

Loved these kind of breakdowns! I'm at the 5.10 to 5.11- range on trad so learning how to think better on a 5.12 level really helps a lot! Appreciate the video thanks!!

[@GravityLabz]

Appreciate the hype. Keep crushing!

[@caseyhayes3448]

Stoked! Really enjoy the videos. Thanks for putting these together. Love seeing the gear placements. Also great to get perspective on why you’re making the decisions you are during a climb. The more detail on gear, placements, and any systems you use, the better! Thanks again

[@GravityLabz]

Thanks Casey. More to come!

[@gerritvanderlugt9002]

More beta breakdown, plz!

[@GravityLabz]

you got it!

[@davisbenn2179]

This format is super informative and well edited definitely subbing!

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

It is a bit odd that the FA party didn't clean out the crack better on such a prime line. Maybe there was even a lot more and they just gave up. Love this work, inspires me to get back on the gear (led 12 trad back in the '80s/90s before I got hooked on bolting caves).

[@AVtechpro1]

Hi, I did the first accent of this route in 2004. I did clean the route quite a bit,there was dirt in the crack from bottom to top. It was clean then, and I am sure dirt has fallen into the crack and some growth has happened over all the years.

[@gambet1234]

Mountain Project listing says cleaned in Jan 2018.

[@largeformatlandscape]

Great video and I love the voiceover about gear and tactics etc.. ethics are what you make of them. You can always go back if you like but in my eyes you lead all parts with gear and ground up

[@GravityLabz]

Awesome, thanks! Totally agree on ethics. I count this one as a send and will likely give it a couple years before another trip up it

[@staleyexplores]

100% that was a send! it was sick.

[@andrewokerlund5689]

Loved this video! The thought process and analysis on the quality of each piece was priceless information. Thank you!

[@GravityLabz]

Cheers Andrew! Glad you enjoyed it

[@exchode]

Dude learning to trad and I love this video format. Keep them coming!

[@GravityLabz]

Thanks! Will do!

[@donthatton]

Lovin' this video! Great commentary to what you're actually thinking and doing. Keep on sendin'

[@GravityLabz]

Cheers, you do the same!

[@wickedloud1995]

This was rad! Really enjoyed the breakdown. 5.10 trad leader over here stoked to get a glimpse into your mindset.

[@GravityLabz]

Cheers! I was there not too long ago and remember wondering what 5.12 was like myself

[@codyandvictoria]

diggin the multicam action on this one!

[@GravityLabz]

Ayy thanks homie! Nothing compared to your setup, but we do what we can!

[@breakfreevanlife3834]

It's a fabulous climb did two laps on solo top rope. One without the flake for the hands. Amazing climb. Thanks for the cleaning!!

[@Govanification]

Great format dude. Also 5:07 the most gardening you've done, come up to WA and visit index in the early summer! I prob use my nut tool more for cleaning cracks than cleaning nuts. Also 0.2 BD size cams are smaller than black totems. I got a couple 0.1's and the smallest couple offset Z4s and I always bring those if a climb looks thin. Small cams weigh nothing and fit in more places than big cams!

[@GravityLabz]

HAHA well I have wanted to come up to Index for quite some time but now I am questioning whether that is a good idea!

[@puglet64]

Excellent video. Not a trad leader, only a follower so far, but looking to include this in my repertoire, so this was very insightful. Kudos to you!

[@libertine5606]

Awesome. I like how you double up and even use extended slings. A couple things I think about and do when getting to a area that I may fall. 1. I double up after a run out area even if the piece is bomber. Ropes unclip, carabiners cross load and break. 2. I will double up and put a extension on the lower piece. As you passed that small cam it pivoted and that might have made it a weak piece. The back up may have done the same thing. If the lower has a full sling it is more likely not to move. The first one gives you the least whip and the second one, that is more likely to hold, keeps you off the deck or ledge. Just some thoughts.

[@jeckol3200]

Dude nice climb. I can tell you have a bright future of climbing ahead of you. I would trust you to lead any climb I was on.

[@GravityLabz]

Ayy thanks Jeckol! Who knows, may see you out there some day!

[@AVtechpro1]

Nice work! I really enjoyed watching the video. Brought back a lot of good memories of when I used to go up there and first climbed this line. I was not sure anybody was ever going to climb this after I did. Nice to see it getting some action. Ed Whittle

[@stonemarrow]

thank you for your history and contributions. Y’all he is the FAist of the route

[@samhparker]

This is dope man!!!! Love the insights and in-depth perspective

[@GravityLabz]

Appreciate it!

[@harrybrielmann189]

fun! There were a couple of times you put cams in perfect spots for nuts which shocks an old timer like me. Also on occasion you placed the nuts for downward, not outward pulls, probably the 12a part explains it! Real climbing. cool.

[@garrettsullins3488]

Would love more vids like this!

[@GravityLabz]

Can do! Any specific aspects you would want to see?

[@gregs7809]

@@GravityLabz Not op, but the risk analysis is really nice

[@constantinosschinas4503]

excellent step by step video and placement/route analysis. thanks for sharing.

[@DougLeonardDougXLeonard]

Really cool video! I liked the beta breakdown too. I would love to see more beta breakdown especially with focus on actual climbing movement and technique. It is cool to hear you break down the moves as you do them POV. Rarely that done for trad climbing, even by the wideboyz, who produce a lot of excellent content on crack and trad climbing technique.

[@GravityLabz]

Thanks! Will do!

[@brianrick5509]

Solid Gold! Keep ‘‘em coming!

[@GravityLabz]

You got it Brian!

[@michaeltillman77]

This was really cool to see. Great work on the video and send brother 🤙

[@RedHouseX]

More of theese! This was amazing! Greetings from Norway

[@GravityLabz]

Greetings Terje!

[@TF-uk2gn]

Great video, really liked the breakdown!

[@GravityLabz]

Thanks Brennan!

[@FallLineJP]

“Brownpoint” haha love it 🤣 Great video, thanks for the really detailed breakdown and walking through your thought process. Really interesting and informative! 👏👏🤙🏻

[@neerajkulkarni6506]

This was a great video! really enjoyed the breakdown

[@GravityLabz]

Yeeww! Glad you enjoyed it!

[@carteretarc]

awesome video. Where I'd like to be with my climbing some day

[@GravityLabz]

just keep climbing & you'll be there soon enough!

[@boundforeverywhere]

That was an exciting lead for sure 😅 the breakdown is super helpful

[@GravityLabz]

Yewww! Thanks for the catches!

[@DekarNL]

Cool route. Those small nuts seem really scary to trust. I'm climbing in Morocco this week 😎

[@GravityLabz]

Yes. One of them is great, two is exciting, after 3, things get hairy. No way! Where in Morocco??

[@DekarNL]

@@GravityLabz 😂 We went to a small place called Gagou. Very beautiful and locals prepped food for us which was amazing too.

[@dariocarafa3788]

Love this type of video. Please make many more

[@GravityLabz]

Consider it done!

[@crummjames]

Sick vid dude, love it

[@GravityLabz]

Cheers! Glad you enjoyed it

[@brdw]

Thanks dude. This was super helpful. Not a lot of good american trad content, so thank you.

[@AndreasGustav]

Sending thoughts and prayers for everyone watching that they get a .5 placement like at 9:23 below the crux of their next spicy project

[@staleyexplores]

an ascent...hmm...I like the ideas of onsight, flash, red/pinkpoints, i think I utilize it more in the realm of understanding my fitness (in the gym mostly) and skills/technique but I'm just sport climbing and not very hard either. I deal with a lot of fatigue so I try not to worry too much about all that stuff, make it to the top, have fun, everyone makes it back "home"

[@TheMusicLemming]

Nice send! I'd definitely consider that a go. Why do you feel good about a black totem in a constriction? They don't have cam stops, am I wrong?

[@thoughtthrottle.]

It's just nice because it has little chance to walk out of the perfect placement.

[@РоманХ82]

дядька ты супер ) давай еще таких крутых видео ))))

[@mikaelwerner1]

This is so great!

[@feelinghealingfrequences7179]

plz show us gear break down for slab and OW

[@GravityLabz]

oooh any climbs you have in mind?

[@floyd5567]

Great work, pull and resend. Once your onsight is ruined just pink it.

[@GravityLabz]

Totally agree.

[@mrthirty1139]

your channel is rad

[@GravityLabz]

ayyy thanks Mr Thirty!

[@iancavanaugh9898]

Option 4, finish route, pull gear, send. Only real option

[@user-ky4jp8jf2p]

Send is placing all gear, or at least that is what it implies without any asterisks, but that is just me. You did say you sent the pinkpoint, which is true. You also placed gear through the crux, so I can see why you feel like it is a true send. You are a 1000x stronger and more experienced btw haha

[@RossPotts]

I’m only starting out after gym climbing for a year and not even trad-ing yet, just sport, so, not trolling here: why only 1 anchor point? Just individual choice?

[@natetronn]

If you watch closely, you'll see he put a second one on: 10:55

[@RossPotts]

@@natetronn thanks for the time stamp. I definitely missed that!

[@natetronn]

@@RossPotts no problem. Also, those particular bolts look fairly new and "bomber" too. I think putting on the one draw, calling take, while still only on the one bolt and single draw is fairly common. This so you aren't still pumped out of your mind while hanging on the crack trying to put on a second one. You're safe enough on one (and thanks to all the cams below you still have backups; at least in theory) and then you can take, rest, start to think straight again, catch your breath and finally get safe(er) by throwing on the second one before you lower etc. Of course, this is context dependent (we are talking about what looks like two bomber bolts with bomber new rap rings; not a pro/gear based anchor, where one cam/nut alone seems sketch to me.) Two is better than one, if you can manage it, but I don't think this was unsafe or anything. Of course, defaulting to both is probably a good practice. But context and everyone's comfort level come into play, so ymmv

[@haaajerry3314]

Product placement? 🤗

[@n8sfolly]

I've brown pointed before.... It smelled different than a yoyo.

[@johntuttle9544]

What was the sketchy part? :P

[@craigbritton1089]

Finger Licken' is also a good route

[@duncancampbell8886]

Not enough nuts placed. Please go immediately to UK for further nut placement training.

[@B.M.D.]

I consider nut tool gardening advice to be beta and thus not a send

[@GravityLabz]

Hahaha you are right. Gotta go back for the true send.

[@mikekarlymccasland330]

Just cuz it wasn’t an on site send doesn’t mean you didn’t SSSEEENNNDDD THAT SHIT!!!!

[@FlatOutFE]

Well crap......I just found out that I brown point just about everything.

[@GravityLabz]

haha no worries about that. Climbing is unique in everyone gets to make their own rules and you don't have to follow anyone else's. The only thing is just to state the style in which you climbed the route.

[@ПавелИванов-ъ1в]

Привет из России, вы безумцы😳

[@ActiveAlexis]

Lol love the edits, super fun video to watch!!