Prusa recently stated in their assembly manual that you should not lubricate the Z-screw rods. While I have done this with lithium grease for 2 years with no issues whatsoever, you'd be silly not to follow the manufacturers advice. Here's a link to read more: help.prusa3d.com/cs/guide/printer-maintenance-tips_23201
@gerhardschwebler14422 жыл бұрын
Wow, wish I'd seen this regarding the z-screw rods before applying the lithium grease.
@ryanbabros79812 жыл бұрын
Lubricating threaded rods attracts dirt and debris that can be hard to remove and could cause premature wear which could theoretically lead to backlash. It could also clog the threaded nut and cause jerking and imperfections in your print that may not be very noticeable.
@bestyoutubernonegraternumber12 жыл бұрын
@@gerhardschwebler1442 you can clean them off with alcohol. You can probably safely use a dry lube like wd40 specialist with ptfe but I think those are delran nuts anyway & those are considered self-lubricating anyhow.
@dingdongdaddy589 Жыл бұрын
If they used higher quality parts, lithium grease would be standard. I service semiconductor equipment- every tool manufacturer with linear rods and screw drives use grease like isoflex nbu15….
@BiigDaddyDellta4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this. Even as a proffessional maintenance technician I always like to double check my thought processes before starting something new. And I get nervous messing with my personal things, especially when they cost a lot of money, this was an excellent sanity check!
@hardrightx2 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for this video. Did my first maintenance since I got the printer in June. Immediately there is a difference in the way the printer performs now. Am a subscriber!
@thehardwareguy2 жыл бұрын
Great to hear! happy printing :)
@Flavio_Mark7 ай бұрын
Dude, this is a video which I always come back to after not using my Prusa for a while. Awesome guide, I have been using this method for a few years now (excluding the Z rod lubrication, as you mentioned in the pinned comment ) and my MK3 has been delivering constant quality prints since day 1. I would like to thank you very much for putting this guide together! Best wishes, brother!
@-Yogo4 жыл бұрын
You can also make your own gcode with pauses for your cleaning routine to move the Y and X axes and especially the Z, for the cleaning and for the lubrication ..
@juergenschubert32474 жыл бұрын
WOuld be great to see what you have done here. Can you share the gcode?
@angelmarauder56474 жыл бұрын
10:30 remember that there is a belt tension readout in the menu. Check this number and ensure that it is between the high/low limits.
@barryhulce67145 жыл бұрын
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to put this together, it's a great help for the 3D printing community. Thanks for the link on Reddit.
@thehardwareguy5 жыл бұрын
Thanks Barry. I'm glad you found it useful!
@alanb764 жыл бұрын
I also find a lot of dust in both hotend fans and especially the lower fan duct which affects parts cooling aiflow. Blowing out the fans with compressed air clears the blades but the buildup in the lower duct requires disassembly to do a proper job.
@seanparnell76774 жыл бұрын
Nice Displate in the background, it's the exact one I have hanging over my Lack enclosure. Love watching those dual landings.
@michaelcerkez38952 жыл бұрын
Very well done videos. You sound well spoken and knowledgeable about this matter. I look forward to additional videos from you on 3d printing. 73
@Scanz_994 жыл бұрын
Prusa's research says that "absolutely do not lubricate the z axis ..." I think it lubricates because it has self-lubricating bushings, and the wd-40 lubricant would defeat this quality ...
@grude14 жыл бұрын
Are you saying that we shouldn't lubricate the rods, the screws, or both?
@Scanz_994 жыл бұрын
grude1 don’t lubricate the z screw ... the rods with bearing it’s ok to lubricate ... but the screw it lubricate itself.... all rods lubricate with singer oil it’s ok , but absolutey don’t lubricate the z screw
@PetrVacek4 жыл бұрын
Exactly, do not lubricant leadscrews. Maybe author should edit the video, as this goes directly against official Prusa user guide: help.prusa3d.com/cs/guide/printer-maintenance-tips_23201
@Traitorman..Proverbs26.112 жыл бұрын
WD40 is not a lubricant. It is closer to a solvent and rust dissolver.
@ellobo824 жыл бұрын
Using the metal brush to clean the nozzle and the heater block is a great tip! Never saw it before!
@dustindixon8572 Жыл бұрын
this is by far the worst advice you are grinding away the metal of the nozzle
@zefnoly91472 жыл бұрын
For cleanimg the nozzle. Heat it up enough for the PLA to melt. Then use plastic cotton sticks to clean. This wont scratch your nozzle and basically removes the danger of shortening it. The plastic will gently soak into the cotton. For example. I had a tiny blob buildup once. Using a couple of cotton sticks it went from being totally covered in PLA to be completely clean and shiny. Looking just like new. Using brass or metal brushes just sounds insane to me. Not only does it have the high risk of shortening. Damaging more components. But you scratch up the metal.
@thehardwareguy2 жыл бұрын
I like your idea, I'll try that! I still use the wire brush method to this day and never had any issues. Never even had to change the nozzle on the Prusa MK3, had it nearly 4 years!
@goesbysteve3 жыл бұрын
Thanks I’m about to service my printer so this is useful. I’d have like to see you retention your belts or use the Calibration - Belt test in the menu. I found this the hardest to positively know I’d set the tension right and from a google search many others ask too.
@MolecularLevel3 жыл бұрын
great! will do that, just have a couple of weeks with my prusa but the thing have barely stoped, will do that service at least once a month with heavy use
@mattomite90973 жыл бұрын
Thanks for putting so much work into these videos. Extremely helpful and well done! Thank you!!!
@thehardwareguy3 жыл бұрын
You're very welcome!
@bobd.2 жыл бұрын
I remove the bed when I start maintenance for cleaning and leave it off until the end so there is no chance of damage or contaminating it with oil that could drip off the rods during lubrication.
@bestyoutubernonegraternumber12 жыл бұрын
Prusa site says specifically do not lubricate the lead screws. I think those are Delran anyway & that is considered self-lubricating.
@111elf14 жыл бұрын
thank you, very well explained... i only got one suggestion: WD40 is a rust REMOVAL aid. it is not meant to be used as grease (it's says so on the spray) since its main component (about 75%) is washing benzine (a kind of kerosene).
@Oxid224 жыл бұрын
This is not the common WD40 type. It's the silicon lubricante of the same company
@jgallone2 жыл бұрын
Have you ever used the teflon dry-film lubricant on the smooth rods or z-screws? It goes on liquid but dries very quickly, leaving a very thin lubricant coating that doesn't attract dust.
@armr69374 жыл бұрын
Thumbs up for poster and model.
@chloemcholoe32805 жыл бұрын
i'd use something to apply the grease to the extruder, like a solid grease. you don't want grease where it touches and grips the filament
@thehardwareguy5 жыл бұрын
I’ve never had any problems with it personally... but it wouldn’t hurt! Do whichever method you feel most comfortable with :)
@ithork5 жыл бұрын
I wondered about that too. How can it not get on the filament spraying grease in there like that? Maybe it doesn’t effect the print tho..
@zwurltech90475 жыл бұрын
Internet says, that lubrication of stepper motors is not necessary, the bearings are "lubricated for life"...
@danielMentzer5 жыл бұрын
this is correct, these motors are sealed and does not need lubrication, and as an elevator technichian i can tell you that many newer motors are sealed and cant be lubricated, they get replaced in 20-30 years and no need to lubricate and no way to lubricate befoure that.
@matzew72564 жыл бұрын
WD40 will wash out grease from the bearings. Would never do this.
@thehardwareguy4 жыл бұрын
Matze W it’s not WD40 oil.... it’s WD40 Lithium Grease.
@kthec12983 жыл бұрын
i would replace the metal bearings with igus bearings, they are quiet and you dont need to oil them
@SunnyAustria4 жыл бұрын
Like the way you talking. Very chilled Videos without this stressed Teen-Style-KZbin-Edit-Skilzzz :-) You get an Abo for this great Work and Content. Greetings from Austria
@nico_poupa_geo4 жыл бұрын
A big THANK YOU to you ... I'm actually making my first printings, but I was wondring a lot about thoses informations and particularly the right way to grease the axe (I think I have to do it on Y axe) .. the info is also present in the book but it is much better to see it. Your video is very clear about that. Thank you, a thumb and a suscribe from me ;)
@jedisct12 жыл бұрын
Very clear and useful! Thank you for this!
@timaucoin20934 жыл бұрын
Excellent video, thank you so much for making it!
@DMOReviews5 ай бұрын
What is your x axis bearing on the other side of the motor is making noise? Am I able to lubricate it or no because the belt is on the gear? Would love to know.
@candicabaniss25603 жыл бұрын
Thank you. I was having the problem. I thought it was worse than it was. The sewing oil solution was easier for I have no idea where my deceased husband put the prusa oil.
@yiwnsi6 ай бұрын
Can you make a video on how to tighten the axis?
@jessesheehan40514 жыл бұрын
trumpet valve oil good for smooth rods?
@jamesseabury43942 ай бұрын
My Prusa printer continues to crash on every print and it’s always because of a piece of filament on the top layer that builds up so the nozzle jumps over it. Can you do a video on that or maybe tell me how to fix that issue? Thanks Jim
@pugbud57824 жыл бұрын
So I’m the first person in my family to ever own 3-D printer and I got the Pursa MK3 and for some reason it will print the first few layers fine and then after a while it will start clumping at the nozzle and makes a huge mess. Do you know what I might be doing wrong?
@cziasai Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this. When using a brush to clean the nozzle I would wonder if the brush material could be harder or at least as hard as the nozzle and possible affect the tiny hole.
@thehardwareguy Жыл бұрын
Yes you have to be careful with that. I would recommend a hardened steel nozzle personally. Not only will it last longer but you'll also be able to experiment with exotic filaments too.
@PowerAirSimulations3 жыл бұрын
where can i find the link for the print on the piece that you have under the nozzle that says hot
@atomleef1104 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for the printer service, I am newbie. just got prusa mini, print with it for 30 hr and try to service the printer. No one does it to prusa mini(if have they not show actual process as you did) can you make video how to service mini? I am afraid of ruin my printer with wrong procedure. Thanks again 😄
@thehappyextruder71785 жыл бұрын
Awesome content Thanks for posting !
@JB.Rochwol2 жыл бұрын
Can you make a review any of the SLA Printers with the curing machine that comes with it?
@719gt42 жыл бұрын
Thanks buddy, this helped me!
@yannickhenschel80102 жыл бұрын
If lubricating with oil do you still pack your bearing with something like superlube? Or is this a bad idea when using oil on the rods? If so do you also repack them after time?
@shrinivasganti903 жыл бұрын
Add cold pull to the nozzle routine and you're all set
@GuillaumeLT11 ай бұрын
I'm thinking of buying a MK4 kit+enclosure as my first 3D printer. Any advice?
@ottovp3 жыл бұрын
nicest cleaning video around! thumbs up!! please please please do the nylock mod and drastically improved my quality! i've done it on my mk3s and gone from 0.586 to 0.086 (best i've seen is 0.020) bed tolerance and you can add the check on the ubolts! :) ps tightening the bed bolts (9:50 ish) DO mod the warping on the bed itself (check octopi and bed leveling wizard)
@ottovp3 жыл бұрын
fyi: NYLOCK MOD TUTORIAL github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/Bed_Leveling_without_Wave_Springs and then do THIS: BED LEVELING CALIBRATION DONE EASY and WAYYYY BETTER: forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/
@gavinliddle20714 жыл бұрын
Great video, was just what I was looking for! Liked and subscribed. Quick question do you oil or grease the X-axis idler pulley? (Bearing housing 623h) mines started squeaking 🙈 thanks again.
@JottyHB2 жыл бұрын
This is a well done tutorial, but unfortunately it contains some errors. The first one you corrected yourself with the pinned comment. The second one: WD45 isn’t a grease. I would definitely not use it for this purpose. I don’t thnk, you have to lubricate the extruder. But you definitely should clean them from filament. I use a tooth-stick for that.
@parlarsson73775 жыл бұрын
Great video, thank You very much!
@thehardwareguy5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@nolan27392 жыл бұрын
your USA link for machine oil is not the same oil you used in your video
@did3d5232 жыл бұрын
need to make my prusa mk2s more quiet how to change mother board for smoth motherboard? thx
@zhoupact8567 Жыл бұрын
My printer over the last almost 3 months now, have been doing its job like a good boy for about 44*24=1056 hours now. I have had a suspicion there may be about time to do some poky poking on it. My suspicion has been A: I at least need to shorten the ---- belt by 1 or maybe even 2 teeth. >.> Mainly due to seeing less than a layers with of shift/error in my prints. I also suspect that various treatment of the nozzle probably makes it a good idea to change it. Oh and I have noticed that when changing the filament, it started getting a bit stuck in there at some point. :/ That probably would be the biggest annoyance to fix.
@gahlotnikhil943 жыл бұрын
excellent video, thank you
@LockDots843 жыл бұрын
Which part cooling duct is that? I'd like to replace the stock one as it's very weak and just doesn't seem to be designed properly.
@USAx777x3 жыл бұрын
excellent video, thank you.
@MiguelMartinez-sc4lz2 жыл бұрын
Very good video thank you
@BMF1233214 жыл бұрын
when calibration the I3 ask if the nozzle is clean. can you brush it to clean it?
@glynwalton52023 жыл бұрын
When using acetone it is recommended ot wear protective (nitrile) gloves as acetone can penetrate the skin and lead to health problems.
@thehardwareguy3 жыл бұрын
If you are prone to skin problems then I would agree, wear gloves.
@itllBuffGaming3 жыл бұрын
Don’t people dip their whole fingers in acetone to remove fake nails? Or do they not do that anymore lol.
@lifeofabronovich77922 жыл бұрын
@@itllBuffGaming exactly what I thought, nail polish remover is literally acetone
@con-rob Жыл бұрын
Mine doesn't have the orange guard/horeshoe piece around the nozzle. Is that new? We paid for the fully assembled mks3+ from Prusa about 3 years ago and it doesn't have that. Lots of gunk/old filament has gotten impacted up in the nozzle area. It's not clogged but all the space around the nozzle now has hardened filament from failed prints that didn't stick to the bed. How do I get all this off now?
@thehardwareguy Жыл бұрын
Hello, I believe they've changed this to a black polycarbonate piece now. I wouldn't panic if you don't have it, plus of course you can always print the part yourself
@quentingauthier4309 ай бұрын
I just noticed mine doesn't have it either and has a ton of gunk like you're describing. Did you get yours all cleaned up? If so, how?
@con-rob9 ай бұрын
@@quentingauthier430 Okay, so here's what we did to clean it. Go to the settings and set the Z to something high so the nozzle is at least 5 or 6 inches above your plate. Then preheat the nozzle up to the highest temp setting. Then let it sit ON for at least 30 minutes. Most of it will melt off onto your plate. Turn it off and let it cool a bit, but not all the way. You should be able to pull off the rest while it's still malleable.
@quentingauthier4309 ай бұрын
@@con-rob amazing! thanks!
@mebillica4 жыл бұрын
Good video. But I would suggest buying a silicone nozzle sock.
@thehardwareguy4 жыл бұрын
I've heard those have become very popular lately!
@armancodeq36423 жыл бұрын
Bro u used a machine oil for Threaded + Plain Rods. Some1 told me to use Synthetic oil with PTFE instead. (which is of course not locally available) So is it safe to use a machine oil for both plain and threaded rod?
@thehardwareguy3 жыл бұрын
I used machine oil for smooth rods, and lithium grease for threaded rods.
@armancodeq36423 жыл бұрын
@@thehardwareguy ok thanx for that👍
@DaleNaumoff3 жыл бұрын
Buy a bottle of triflow and use that as the oil instead. Bicycle shops will often carry it or an equivalent if you can't find it in your area.
@MartinStephenson14 жыл бұрын
Quick Q. Don't the bearings have a seal around the edges and won't that seal prevent the oil getting inside the bearing casing and onto the bearings themselves?
@thehardwareguy4 жыл бұрын
In theory yeah, but if you’ve ever changed the bearings the first thing you’ll realise is just how much dirt & dust gets in there. Oil can get in there
@MartinStephenson14 жыл бұрын
@@thehardwareguy thanks. Just built my mk3s a week ago. Do you find the modified nozzle fan shroud you have printed makes a difference?
@bobd. Жыл бұрын
With a long list of items such as you have for maintaining the printer, have you considered creating a list then make that list public? Then one link would take everyone to everything they need. Those items would still be affiliate links, so you would not lose anything there, and you could edit the list whenever you needed to and not have to come back and edit the list embedded in your video description.
@timm20694 жыл бұрын
What was the reason for using A4 paper during the calibration? About to get my first Prusa
@thehardwareguy4 жыл бұрын
It’s just to ensure that the nozzle isn’t touching/damaging the steel sheet! During this calibration you can easily feel if the nozzle snags the paper, at which point you must turn the printer off immediately. Good luck with the printer man, any more questions just let me know!
@aarontarazona67373 жыл бұрын
It's ok vert it acetone to the heatbed?
@Alpha-Alpha4 жыл бұрын
I am not sure if you should Grease up the filament feed wheel, u don’t want it to slip
@thehardwareguy4 жыл бұрын
I’ve never had this problem! If it slips it’s too slack!
@pc5575 жыл бұрын
Great video!
@douglasbutler43605 жыл бұрын
I lubricate BOTH ends of each motor. The rear end sees almost as much force and wear as the front end.
@fredpinczuk73524 жыл бұрын
1) it does not. The bearing closer to the pulley and belt tension is significantly under higher load then the rear bearing. 2) The bearings are sealed, for proper lubrication, you need to disassemble the motor (4 screw at the rear), and pull the assembly carefully. Note the location of the spring washer, as its normally at the rear and pressing the motor assembly forward (Toward the output shaft). Clean all surfaces, alcohol works fine. And you can then lube the bearings from the inside, you may need to pry off the dust cap seal 1st. Give you a chance to actually inspect the bearings as well and check for any excessive wear. But frankly, it's just as cheap to replace the motor vs. going through the steps to replace 2 bearings. Spraying white grease from the outside, doesn't do anything.
@McGerkenos5 жыл бұрын
What about cleaning your nozzle from inside, its good to make cold pull sometime
@thehardwareguy5 жыл бұрын
True, I didn't include this in the video because it's a little more "risky". I tend to only do a cold pull if extruder is clogged up!
@goesbysteve5 жыл бұрын
Run through some cleaning filament instead
@rnisson23 жыл бұрын
Will normal WD40 work? The type mentioned in the video is indefinitely out of stock in the USA
@strawhatsam3 жыл бұрын
I don't recommend that, because regular WD-40 damages plastic and it's not exactly designed to be a lubricant. It's main function is cleaning and water displacement for rusty parts I believe.
@RasTona_3 жыл бұрын
Gr8 tutorial.
@Slavko_Husam4 жыл бұрын
why do you grease the motors with pulleys ??
@tiredeys5 жыл бұрын
For tighten the Y belt Must i remove the heatbed? Anybody knows?
@RainTechTime5 жыл бұрын
I learned a lot! But how do I know when to use the Machine Oil or the WD40 grease? Whats the difference??
@thehardwareguy5 жыл бұрын
They are very similar. But basically grease is oil mixed with some kind of thickener. WD40 grease looks more like a white paste, which just helps it last longer! Standard machine oil is cleaner/easier to manage but it dries up quicker. Personally I would never put Grease on the printer rails just because it would make such a mess. Machine Oil is also known to be much better for lubricating bearings.
@Alpha-Alpha4 жыл бұрын
thehardwareguy there is a wD 40 dry ptfe lib for metal to metal contact
@adamd64694 жыл бұрын
@@thehardwareguy WD40 will dry quicker then oil, it will dissolve some dirt, penetrate all small places and after some time evaporate mostly. I'd say that for small gears in extruder oil or grease would work better than wd40.
@skatecrazy14 жыл бұрын
@@adamd6469 It's just WD40 brand, it's white lithium grease not the OG WD-40 formulation. Totally different product
@jessesheehan40514 жыл бұрын
i don't know about oiling stepper motors
@teresashinkansen94024 жыл бұрын
Is there something unique in this that doesn't apply to any FDM printer and only to Prusa i3 MK3 printers? Prusa owners are like apple owners they have to mention its a "Original Prusa Mkxx" even if its irrelevant. Sent from my Apple iPhone XR with tapabrag.
@thehardwareguy4 жыл бұрын
You’re welcome for the video.
@Averell644 жыл бұрын
what i find a little annoying is that it says in the manual to regrease the linear bearings every few hundred print hours - but there is no proper step by step manual giving you an idea on how to get to those bearings... i had one bearing block up on me on the x axis and had to dissassemble the entire printhead and remove the x-axis in a very dodgy way over the top... printer still works fine but damn that was dodgy... also - service every 100 or 200 hours is a really narrow service interval, i wonder how they do it in their printfarms
@owca66664 жыл бұрын
if you use silicone sock on your hotend it wont require any cleaning at all...
@thehardwareguy4 жыл бұрын
I’ve used them on Creality printers... they’re okay, but I found that filament can still get trapped inside them and then dip down onto prints unexpectedly! A few of my white PLA prints had black PETG smears on them. Since then I removed the nozzle sock and never had the problem again!
@owca66664 жыл бұрын
@@thehardwareguy creality socks are a bit rubbish, ive got e3d pro sock on my mk3s (the one that covers everything completely) only the tip of the nozzle pokes out, theres no chance of filament getting in there.
@diegoyromeo4 жыл бұрын
tk man! exelent!
@AndrewVincent5 жыл бұрын
no 7x7 mesh bed leveling?? ;-)
@SebaQuiros4 жыл бұрын
nice
@martincaneva42473 жыл бұрын
Hi. There is some alternative to WD40 ?
@Traitorman..Proverbs26.112 жыл бұрын
A lubricant would better. WD40 is NOT a lubricant.
@@martincaneva4247 Lithium grease with PTFE is my choice. I use it inside the roller bearings.
@cosmickatamari5 жыл бұрын
I basically do the same steps but only 2x a year, you think every 3 months would be worth it? I do print a good bit (IMO). But I don't notice issues.
@thehardwareguy5 жыл бұрын
Any service is better than no service!But generally the more often the better, without overdoing it of course!
@cosmickatamari5 жыл бұрын
@@thehardwareguy Came back to say, I did complete maintenance before printing a massive 3 day job and some prototypes. Everything turned out great but I think it's time for another maintenance. LOL
@williamconlon41833 жыл бұрын
Audio??????
@lbaker36020014 жыл бұрын
Graphite would work better. Oil is dirt magnetic
@patrickmaartense77725 жыл бұрын
low risk ... of short .. happened to me ... not blew the board though ALWAYS shut down the printer when working on the nozzle best way to clean your nozzle : get the hot end OUT and use a HOT AIR GUN ( 250-300c ) use pliers and a brush to clean the hot end if you have a ruby nozzle you do not want to run that over the nozzle