12 WORST TABLE SAW MISTAKES!! And How To Avoid Them...(DON'T DO THESE THINGS! Kickback/Binding)

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Are you sure you’re using your power tools safely? Avoid the most common (and dangerous) mistakes! Get your FREE guide here 👉 bit.ly/10PowerToolMistakes

[@GPro-vy7od]

I’ve been using a table saw for a couple of years now and the one thing I did after watching safety videos is maintained a healthy amount fear of the tool. It scared me to use it the very first time as I’d seen how badly someone could get hurt using it. I’m not as afraid now to use it but I still keep that fear in the back of my mind which keeps me constantly thinking and asking myself if I am doing things safely. Complacency is when most accidents happen from what I’ve seen. Thanks for the great video.

[@locknload9143]

I'm going on 54 now. When I was younger (18) I always used to pull from the back, especially shorter pieces of stock. Then one day, the board decided to say, "Yeah I don't think so" and litterly pulled not only the board, but my hand into the blade. I was very lucky. It cut my thumb and two fingers only requiring stitches. It could have been alot worse. Every since then, I treated all my tools with the utmost respect! I was even scared for a time, everytime I used my table saw. Then realized being scared of a tool is just going to get you in trouble again. Respect is everything when working with power tools. 36 years later with no incidences. It's nice to see guys like you showing proper techniques! You can only learn so much from co-workers/Father's etc..You really need to learn from your mistakes when using power tool. Providing there only minor obvious. Love the channel! Hopefully people take away some knowledge. 👍

[@leebreisacher]

My favorite tip from Steve R is to always (always) do a "dry run" in your mind -- think about where you are going to stand, where you are going to have your hands throughout the cut, etc.

[@dwightl5863]

Only slightly off topic but knowing where your fingers, including thumb, are when using the miter saw aka chop saw. Shudder when I see guys literally "chop" that 2 by x by just throwing it against the fence and slamming that blade down.

[@nickbrutanna9973]

@@dwightl5863 They'll learn, sooner or later... missing a digit or more, but they'll learn. 😉

[@jimdavis1566]

Yep, locating all of your fingers before each cut will keep you from having to find them afterwards.

[@lazygardens]

@@jimdavis1566 That's morbid!

[@irafair3015]

@@lazygardens Yet true.

[@kathyputman5160]

Thank you so much! My husband never showed me how to use his tools while he was alive but, I've been figuring out on my own. I did have the benefit of watching him which helped a lot but, when I asked about all the clear plastic pieces (guards) that were not installed he said it was "crap" to get in your way. In all fairness have seen none of those guards installed on your saws either. I have all the No no's as a novice trying to learn. Table saws, 12" dual bevel miter saws, skill saws, jigsaws, sanders routers, hand held and table type, grinders etc. He made a lot of things. He just liked to piddle around as he put it but i think he was really good at it. I've started using them for minor repairs around the house as need and managed to do a half way decent miter cut to replace a board on the screen door, not exact but, good enough. Whenever I cup big sheets of plywood or lumber I use his saw horses on the other end level with the saw to balance the weight. He also has a metal support with a tri stand and a T top that has adjustable height, not sure what it is actually made for but have I used it for supporting 1x6's I needed to rip, It prevented it from levering as you called it. Next project I'll have to find or make a push stick. I've been using the half moon medal piece that fits into the grooves as a pusher. I have a dewalt and a black and decker table saw and I kept the black and decker miter saw as it did not cut towards me like the dewalt one did., that kinda scared me. I traded that for labor.

[@charlesfyfe7282]

Pl

[@jackspeer2127]

the YT creator typically removes the guards so the viewer can more clearly see the interaction between the machine and workpiece. When the camera is off safety devises usually go back on.

[@tc9148]

Good list BUT you did not cover the most important ones. #1 use the blade guard that came with the table saw or buy an over arm guard. #2 use a splitter with anti kickback cauls or a riving knife. #3 throw away that useless plastic push stick and make one with a long heel on it to properly hold down the stock. I have been a woodworker for 40 years. These three things prevent most accidents.

[@tc9148]

@@kbenk108 Push stick link. www.leucht.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/02-new-sticks.jpg

[@SHunsader]

Interesting perspective. I remove the blade guard the instant I purchase a table saw. It reduces visibility and keeps one from making precision cuts when needing to look from above. I've been working with table saws since the early 70's, have never been cut, bruised, etc, and try to hold my work to the highest standard. I DO leave the blade guard on chop saws though. As far as a push stick, I'm quite happy with quickly making a push stick that I can push straight through the blade on narrow cuts. Using the same stick when running through 10's - 100's of feet doesn't wreck the push stick if you keep it against the fence, since the blade passes through the same kerf each time.

[@Bowamaketona]

My man’s is out here making mad money teaching people how to not make mistakes on the table saw while making the biggest mistake of them all. It’s absolutely bonkers to me that he would make this video and not even have a riving knife. It’s almost like he just learned a few things off of KZbin and made a video on it. Some of what he said was good but for the rest he’s completely unqualified.

[@alohamark3025]

Why do pros eschew the use of plastic guards and kickback cauls? Do they just think they are immune to accidents? Most woodworkers are amateurs, and unless they are super-precise, they should not ignore safety devices. The table saw is the most dangerous tool in a workshop. For long ripping, a track saw is much safer, and a miter saw is faster and more accurate for 6" crosscuts.

[@Bowamaketona]

@@alohamark3025 I’ve worked with many pros and true experts. None of them cut bare saw on the table saw. They always have at minimum a riving knife. The guy in this video is not a pro. It took me 12 seconds to figure that out. Try a different video if you want to learn safety.

[@chycoll]

#13. Not using a riving knife! This will prevent a lot of the issues you mentioned by the blade being squeezed.

[@capricorn3d828]

Thankgod someone mentions ist

[@wayneyadams]

#14 And a blade guard, if possible.

[@EmpathVisualStudio]

@@wayneyadams in my personal experience blade Guards often get caught on material and cause more problems. If you need a blade guard you probably shouldn’t be operating a table saw. It’s all about respecting the power of the tool.

[@wayneyadams]

@@EmpathVisualStudio Yeah, your one of those guys who knows a guy, who knows a guy who heard about a guy whose life was saved because he wasn't wearing a seat belt so no one should wear seat belts. Enjoy your woodworking stumpy.

[@wayneyadams]

@@EmpathVisualStudio P.S. If you have problems getting work hung up in blade guards then you shouldn't be operating a table saw.

[@hojo70]

#10 is so important. I am shocked at how many people and KZbinrs have "normalized" reaching over a moving blade. Incredibly dumb! These are all great tips, thank you!!

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thanks hojo! You’re right-that is one of the most overlooked mistakes. And on the jobsite especially, there’s so much temptation to do it when you’re in a rush. But never worth it!

[@budgetaudiophilelife-long5461]

@@TheHonestCarpenter 👍 NEVER BE IN THAT MUCH OF A RUSH 🤗

[@kazesim88]

Agreed. And it might sound obvious but if you're turning the saw off before you grab the cut pieces, make sure you wait for the thing to spin down first. It still takes a second with a brake and it can be hard to see if you're using the blade guard. Also, blade guards are great for mitigating all of the "hand on the saw" disasters. Other vids on this remove them just for demo purposes and I'm guessing that's the case here? It should probably be mentioned.

[@anneoreilly4900]

I’m not tall enough or my arms long enough to reach over the blade even if I wanted to, lol.

[@ShuffleUpandDeal32]

I agree

[@bobwalker2293]

I am almost 80 and this is great advice young people just starting. Brings back memories of me standing right behind a 2x4 I was ripping and it kicked out hitting me in the abdominal area causing a hernia. That was 60 years ago. Thanks again

[@jimpackard8059]

No - this video is awful advice and should be ignored. He is not even using a guard. Please encourage viewers to seek qualified advice and training before going anywhere near a saw.

[@gregpreston7301]

I was also surprised at no mention of the riving knife?! So important on rip cuts. I know because I forgot to replace it after making a few non-through cuts. I needed to make ONE rip cut and sure enough had a kickback and fortunately ended up with only a relatively minor injury. I now have a knife that can stay on even with a non-through cut and will only come off in rare circumstances. I also use a push stick that has a lip to help push the board through and just let the blade cut into it slightly to support the narrow cut. This type of stick/handle is easily replaced or "repaired" after numerous cuts. I know you are almost certainly familiar with these techniques Ethan and I am frankly surprised you didn't at least mention them. Thank you for your continued presentation of these important safety videos and your willingness to receive candid comments. I appreciate all you do.

[@perchristophersen8966]

I make push sticks off scrap mdf. Just use a band or jigsaw tracing’s from any new or old ones 👨🏼‍🦳🇩🇰🇨🇦

[@1001digital]

Yes, the riving knife is a saver. I didn't use it one time and got a piece of wood flying. Had a bruise on my arm for month and will never forget to install it again.

[@frankphillips7436]

I just mentioned this as well. I’m not exactly a safety freak but I can only think of two times I would ever remove the riving knife. 1) Doing coving. 2) Using a dado blade.

[@Shanajio8]

My riveting knive is Set about 5mm below the blade.

[@iangodenzi382]

Yas the dewalt has two riving knives one for blind cuts and one for through cuts. if used when making through cuts it will protect you from most of the dangers mentioned.

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

Re: mistake #11, cutting narrow strips. If you don't have a zero clearance throat plate, do the following. Lower the blade all the way into the saw. Lay a 2" strip of painter's tape over the length of the throat slot. Start the saw and slowly raise the blade through the tape to the height you need. Make your cuts. The tape prevents the thin strips from dropping into the saw. This is not a good solution for many cuts, but for a small batch, it's perfect.

[@kralj975]

Or make expendable wooden pushing stick so when you push blade cuts through the stick

[@gratefulwookie618]

Thank you for this tip

[@roberte.6892]

You know, I've seen other table saw safety videos b4, but this one is so good bc it explains the WHY and the HOW of what can go wrong, not just a list of things to avoid.

[@tracychriss5645]

Good video! Although I usually don't do any of the things you mention, It doesn't "hurt" to watch this as a refresher to prevent accidents from happening. One accident with a table saw can be a life changing event!

[@Token_Civilian]

One piece of table saw advice I saw on another channel said to always, always, always choose a saw with a splitter whenever possible to help reduce the likelihood of binding the blade and getting the kickback therefrom, be it from the lateral pinching you mentioned of bad left hand technique, or to help prevent twisting. Great vid, great safety tips.

[@TerrySmith-k4x]

Hate to say it I always remove them from my tablesaw because when you’re pushing your wood through, sometimes it stops it and it is just to aggravate

[@Changtent]

One of the Best tablesaw safety videos I've seen, and I've watched several. Thanks. A carpenter friend of mine with long experience lost all four fingers by reaching behind the blade and pulling the stock through. He has about 40 years experience as an independent carpenter, mostly renovating houses. He used to brag about how he'd done this hundreds of times, and the trick was to "not hold the board too tightly, that way if it catches then the saw will just pull it out of your hand". We'd warned him many times. One day the board caught, and in the blink of an eye, pulled his hand into the blade, removing all four fingers. His step-son was working with him, and called the ambulance. Wrapped a rag on his bleeding hand, then picked up the severed fingers from the floor, putting them into a plastic bag. Three fingers were re-attached, one was too badly damaged. Later, after many surgeries, he lost another finger. Now missing his index and ring fingers, he's back working as an independent carpenter several years later.

[@abykatz11]

Shit that's terrifying, I'll never do it again, thanks for sharing

[@jimgossage5671]

What your friend didn't realize was that the tooth of the sawblade was traveling about 100 mph or 150 ft/sec. If he is holding onto the board tight enough to pull it, he has no chance to let go and his fingers are on the other side of the room before he realizes it!

[@dougtaylor2803]

I knew a butcher who was missing some fingers...as a customer, that terrifies me more.

[@joeladam742]

Just wondering why you didn’t mention using a riving knife or blade guard. I noticed you didn’t have a riving knife installed during the video, but it will prevent some twisting and binding situations. You hardly ever see anyone using a blade guard on you tube but I try to use mine whenever I can, mainly for larger pieces. I find it is just another level of protection that you can put in place in a few minutes. Great video. It is good to go through these safety reminders from time to time.

[@frankd8204]

Very helpful and as I am new to wood working and using a table saw, I can see how a lot of people, including myself, could make these mistakes. When doing repetitive cuts, I can also see a bit of complacency creeping in or feeling comfortable and taking short cuts. My neighbor has a really high end table saw that senses human tissue and stops the blade instantly. Even though he is a long-time woodworker, he said he saved his hand once as an uneven board pulled his hand into the blade and it stopped, only causing a scratch...totally amazing! If that happened on my table saw, it would have been a different outcome. I am guilty of reaching over to clear wood and not using an out table. Thanks again for such a helpful safety video.

[@Xfd960]

What your neighbor has is a saw stop.

[@flipperbooch2194]

@@Xfd960and those are some very expensive machines, but man are they worth it.

[@jimpackard8059]

@@Xfd960maybe not. Other people also offer the same option

[@wildbill23c]

@@jimpackard8059 Who, and are they any cheaper than sawstop? I want a sawstop but damn not for the prices they want for one. Even their basic contractor style table saw which is a step below a cabinet saw is over $2,000, the cabinet saw is over $3,000 and then has to be rewired for 220v, the contractor saw requires a $200+ kit to convert to 220v. Great saws, but bad for my wallet LOL....if they offered a payment/layaway plan I'd buy one, but so far haven't had any luck finding anything like that, and if they did offer something like that I'd buy a higher end cabinet saw from them.

[@cedartreeworkshop]

These are all great tips, Ethan! Thank you for sharing. I learned firsthand about kickback when I first started when I stupidly tried to push a small square through with the rip fence. It bound, turned, and kicked back hard - putting a sizable dent in a cabinet behind me. In hindsight, I should have built and used a cross cut sled for that cut! To this day, I remain humbled and grateful that I wasn't injured.

[@geoffhayden5283]

I agree to the thinking about it a few times. Always check first possible mistakes 3 times. If you are tired, it’s end of day, or you are in a rush, catch yourself and STOP! That’s when we make the most mistakes even when we know how to do everything correctly.

[@ahitchcox]

Good video. I took wood shop in high school MANY years ago and learned many of these practices, but not all of them. And I know from experience that Rule #10 Don't reach over the saw is good advice A few years ago I was cutting some small pieces and reached over the saw to retrieve them while the blade was still spinning. I didn't lift my hand quite high enough to clear the blade and cut a kerf in the tip of my index finger. I learned my lesson after a painful trip to the ER.

[@tanda628]

You should push with your push stick closer to the blade rather than the fence. This keeps the front of the board better attached to the fence. If you push close to the fence the front of the board can pivot away from the fence. You can actually see this happening on your video around 10:37. There are basically two pivot points on the board when you are cutting. One is at the back end of the board at the fence and the other is at the cutting point of the blade. When you push farther from the fence the pivot force around the back end of the board is stronger and that keeps the front end of the board better attached to the fence. Bit nitpicky but this is a safety video :)

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

No, I agree tanda! But I thought it needed more explanation, and I have some trepidation showing close push stick usage to total newcomers because it has its own risks as well. I’ll talk about it a lot more with the push stick video!

[@dougdiplacido2406]

I totally disagree. You keep the stick as far from the blade as possible to avoid it hitting the blade and getting put through your hand.

[@andrewbieger5004]

@@dougdiplacido2406 Not wanting to stir up chit here, but I gotta agree with Tanda on this one. The push stick used here (like those supplied with most every new saw) is a strong, but relatively soft plastic. If it hits the blade, it will have a bite taken out of it, but the KB is still reduced over the option of pushing near the rip fence. If you look at ANY video of Kickbacks, you will see the chain of events usually starts with poor control of the work piece, and the work piece gets sideways into the blade. The bottom line is that TS have inherent risks associated with their use, but MINIMIZING the risks helps keeping the woodworker with ALL ten fingers. As an aside, I am a Gen. Contractor with over forty years in the field, and virtually every TS accident I have ever witnessed was the direct result of poor work piece control.

[@ecsoftball]

@@andrewbieger5004 Thanks for your insight.

[@sjoerddeboer329]

Lol, I just mentioned exactly the same mistake in my comment and after I posted it, now I see, you already did! Glad I was not the only one that noticed.

[@dugan6056]

Day 1 with new model makers table saw. Fed in a piece of timber as a test cut (having watched videos of cutting on model ship sites) the timber caught the blade and kicked back over my shoulder first hitting my thumb. Ouch! Switched the saw off, found the ejected piece of wood, then checked throbbing thumb. It looked like the end of a raw cut sausage with meat and blood coming out!! Phoned taxi and went to A&E. I have an x-ray of my thumb with a very neat blade shaped groove on the tip of the bone! Your video is essential viewing. It took me a year to get back into using the saw, having educated myself somewhat better via youtube I have become fairly skilled at producing 1mm thick planks for a ship's hull! My mistake was watching modeller's videos, when I should have been watching proper workshop woodworkers guidance! Lesson learned with ten fingers (more or less) intact.

[@tump1181]

Good video man! Coming from a disabled vet that’s been out the game for a bit, and trying to get back into doing some woodworking to keep myself busy it’s good to be reminded of these things. I remember in shop class many moons ago seeing a kid run his thumb through a very powerful shop table saw while making one of these mistakes. He had no chance to respond. The ceilings must’ve been 20’ high in that shop, and blood splatter reached them with ease. The teacher rushed him out, and by order of the teacher we had to find his thumb. 😅

[@julietphillips1991]

I will start by saying...I love your channel. Your tips/good advice around tools in general are always worth remembering. I have that same table saw and recently I needed to rip a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 plywood. I kept remembering you saying if you're not comfortable doing it, then don't do it. But, like I said, I needed to do this because anything else that I could try would give me an awful cut. The fence is so far away and I am propped up on 2 sawhorses to help me infeed. I say a prayer before I begin and walk away thanking the good Lord when I am done! You and the good Lord were on my mind. Thank you!

[@brettski74]

There are better ways of breaking down sheet goods than using a jobsite table saw. In fact, I'd go so far as to say a jobsite table saw would be among the worst tools for this kind of job. If you have something like a cabinet saw with a large sliding table, that's a very different story, but most of us don't have access to one of those. A jobsite saw has so little support for keeping something that large both supported and moving parallel to the blade. A track saw is an excellent alternative, but many of us don't have one of those either. I'm assuming that you have a circular saw. You're much better off using that. If you're concerned about precision you have a couple of options. Either use the circular saw to break down the large material into pieces slightly larger than final dimension then do the final dimension cuts on the table saw with those smaller pieces. Another option is to make a precision saw guide for your circular saw. There are plenty of videos on KZbin about making a saw guide for your circular saw and they're easy and quick to make.

[@thegardenofeatin5965]

#13: Use as many safety attachments and guards as possible when making a cut. The riving knife should be installed for all through cuts, if the guard can be used, use it. #14: Except for dados, never use the fence and the miter gauge at the same time. If you are cross-cutting multiple pieces to the same length, it can be tempting to use the fence as a convenient stop, and then put the stock through the blade using the miter gauge. But this is likely to cause the stock between the fence and the blade to bind, causing kickback. Clamping a short stop block to the infeed side of the fence which will allow the fence side offcut to be otherwise free once it is in contact with the blade will prevent this. A sled is also a viable solution.

[@peterwaterhouse8326]

You should not have to point out these crucial safety tips. The OP is a disgrace.

[@cocvhecv]

I have made this mistake and have a healthy fear of it now. Good one.

[@davidjackson8829]

I have been woodworking for a few years and become competent with most power tools. I work for an oil company and safety is in everything we do. I am always very safety aware. I have been avoiding table saws. I won’t lie. They scare the life out of me. I need one now. I am about to purchase one and need these tips. This is extremely well presented and helpful. Thanks a lot.

[@jonathanlunglo]

Thank you for these videos! I was lucky enough to learn carpentry from my father (who has been doing this longer than I've been alive), and it's good to see that the safety rules that kept us safe are the same that you're now sharing with a wider audience.

[@braytac]

As some one who watches woodworking and not so much does it himself this was very helpful and interesting. Knowing why things are done a certain way and what to look out for when doing them myself one day. lots of woodworkers say "don't do this yourself" and then do it in there video without ever explaining why not is pretty high. Learned a lot in these 11 minutes and 45 seconds, thank you

[@Erik_The_Viking]

#10 is a big one here on YT - I see a lot of woodworking channels where they're constantly reaching over the blade. When I finish with a cut I turn off the saw and let the blade stop spinning. Then I grab the offcut.

[@wildbill23c]

I do the same. If the pieces drop on the floor behind the saw oh well. I can pick them up later. I try to keep an outfeed table or stand behind the saw, but sometimes for just one rip cut I might not, and usually the pieces will just fall to the floor behind the saw if they're too long. Let the saw stop completely and just walk behind the saw and pickup the pieces....much safer than reaching over a spinning blade...same goes for trying to pick something up from behind a wood lathe, whatever is spinning on that lathe may catch your clothing....lots of tools that can cause entanglement and dismemberment in a workshop....its best to slow down and take your time....don't be rushed, and don't be using equipment under the influence of drugs or alcohol either.

[@mustangtonto5862]

Your carpenter videos are some of the very best on KZbin, and this one was quite possibly your very best yet! I have always been just a little leery of table saws, however after learning from you I will be more comfortable, but still not lackadaisical.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you, Mustang! I’m really glad they help-work safe!

[@BobAmarant]

Hi, really good video. You’ve got some items in here that I’ve never thought of. A big one for me is cross cutting short pieces on a long board while using a miter gauge, and using the fence as a length stop. The small piece between the blade and the fence will get caught and kick back at you. If doing this, attach a board to the fence and use that as a length stop, push pass the stop so the cut piece doesn’t bind.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

I had that one written in Bob, and decided to use it in a later video about the miter gauge to keep this one a little shorter! You’re totally right though-that’s super dangerous the moment you get binding. Thanks for watching!

[@Muksanim2012]

I have used a radial arm saw since 1982 for household type projects. I chose this saw because of its versatility. A few months ago I found that the motor would not work. A new capacitor did not fix the problem. Tracing wire connections showed no faulty connections. So I concluded maybe the motor windings could be at fault and set it aside for a later time. In the meantime I needed a reliable saw for a major project on the house and bought a Dewalt table saw which has not yet arrived. This video gave me some very good insights. Thanks. I do plan to get my radial arm saw repaired (parts & motor no longer available), checking about having motor rewound.

[@smokeyjay187]

As a beginner woodworker I found this very helpful. I use scrap wood and my edges aren't entirely straight so I get resistance sometimes. Also did not know that pulling on the back piece of wood could pull your hand in like Tommy Caldwell. I use a push block instead of push stick and wondering if that is a problem.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

I do prefer push sticks over blocks, Smokey-but they’re all useful and I’ll cover my ideas on them soon!

[@boltup5566]

@@TheHonestCarpenter looking forward to your thoughts on push blocks. Very useful when I need to make a lot of thin strips the same width. I just let the push block get cut.

[@howardberry2658]

If you've got wibbly wobbly edges on your scrap timber, and you don't have a jack plane, jointer or planer, try fixing something straight over that edge so that it runs against the fence, and rip the other edge. Then remove your straight thing, turn the board around and rip off the wibbly wobbly edge. I've used metal studding for walls and spare uprights for shelving systems in the past, since the metal is very straight and slides well against the fence.

[@drewscreen]

@@howardberry2658 that's exactly what we used to tell our students to do when they came into the shop with reclaimed boards.

[@jimpackard8059]

As a beginner, you should ignore this video as he is not using a riving knife or a guard and that is dangerous. I don’t know what he does for a living but he needs to get some training before he instructs others on safety as he is clueless

[@peterohmart5954]

This was a great video!!! I am a safety consultant and a weekend woodworker. I am impressed because you did well speaking to a multi-level audience.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you, Peter!

[@BobAmarant]

Another thought. The kind of push text that you’re using are my least favorite. I much prefer a push stick that has a long edge on the bottom. The type that you are using works if you have nothing else, but doesn’t hold the board against the table. Keep up the good work.

[@ipick4fun27]

If you want to be safe about it, I recommend using two push sticks. One to the side and one pushes forward. Never push into the blade when pushing to the side. Or use feather board.

[@renoholland7090]

Great video. Concentrate on what you are doing, don't get distracted by other things that happen around you. Never sneak up on someone who is using a saw and tap him on the shoulder, or such.

[@ShoelessTX]

Well done. As someone that got lazy one day in the interest of speed, I can attest that table saws are amazing tools that have amazing power that can be very dangerous. I was needing to cut several 4 in blocks off of a 2x2 strip of maple. Rather than using a stop block to set the length of the cut, I just pushed the board against the fence, used a mitre gauge to hold the long end and started ripping off those small blocks. About 6 or so into it, one bound up with the blade and went flying...straight into my mouth. A 2"x2"x4" piece of hard maple traveling at about 100mph does not think a mask and lips are much to deal with. A lot of blood, 3 stiches in one lip and 2 in the other and I will never rush any cut on my table saw. If it feels dicey, I find another way to do it!

[@johnford7847]

Very useful. I'm a novice with the table saw and found this extremely useful. You gave clear explanations of each danger and why that operation poses a danger. Thank you.

[@mannygiroux3491]

This saw kzbin.infoUgkx84IcU5pbZd1Qrz8u4-YRLmJax7kdRi7B comes in handy in many ways. When I had a small (dead) tree fall I started the process of disposal by using this saw and cutting off the small branches. Then slowly work on the small trunk with undercutting and letting it fall down. With many trees on acres of land paying for a tree service can be expensive. It also is nice in that it can be used in hard to get areas like along my creek. It's also safer and quieter than a chainsaw. It obviously can't cut down massive trees but it does work fine for small ones or brush. And of course since I already own a Black

[@alanlurie8675]

Excellent video. I’m 60 years old and over the years have experienced two ejections. One hit me in the ribs and the other in the privates. Both hurt like hell and made me much less comfortable using a table saw. All of your points are very well expressed. Thank you.

[@TomYouAreDoingItWrong]

Great tips, Ethan. I don't fear my table saw (an older Ryobi), but I have a very healthy respect for it. I make good use of infeed and outfeed rollers, and push sticks are a must for me. It really needs a riving knife. I have become quite fascinated by crosscut tables, and that is on my project to-do list. Love your channel!

[@arthurleathblountii7060]

This guy WILL get you hurt if you follow his videos.

[@bcc5701]

@@arthurleathblountii7060 explain…?

[@familiecole]

As a beginner looking to purchase his first table saw this video, and some of the comments, have proved invaluable. Thanks.

[@namewithheld8115]

This is a fantastic video. Thank you for making it. I'm planning on doing some basic woodwork soon (moving to a new home), and this has been so valuable in covering all the things I shouldn't do, that I wasn't even aware of. Thank you!

[@jimpackard8059]

If you are starting woodworking, the worst thing you can do is take note of this awful video. I suggest you get a qualified woodworking lecturer to view it and after he has stopped laughing, ask him for professional advice.

[@stemogstel22]

This video is well timed. I got back from picking up a table saw, and this video was posted when I got home. I didn't even open the box. I am grateful for the "mistakes" videos. On my most recent project I used my circular saw almost exclusively because of the confidence and lessons from the circular saw videos. I think this table saw video is a great primer for the projects that will utilize that tool beginning very soon. Thank you so much! After the circular saw videos and my outdoor bench project, I agree and would tell almost anyone that the two most important tools in the DIY arsenal are the cordless drill and circular saw. The speed square is now an absolute staple as well.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you, Scott! I’m really glad the videos have been so helpful. I’ll keep making them-work safe!

[@billsedutto8824]

The biggest mistake is not wearing eye and ear protection. That being said this was a well done video. It’s probably the best I’ve seen on table saw mistakes.

[@mrcryptozoic817]

An additional benefit of ear protection: I've found it's easier to concentrate if I wear ear protection. All that noise generates a lot of tension in your mind.

[@jayman12348]

Safety squints count?

[@bernarddouthit478]

Ethan - this is great. I do have one comment - I use a featherboard whenever I possibly can, and I have of course learned to set it to hold the work piece tight against the fence, but not so tight that it creates friction. I think featherboards are indispensible in reducing the likelihood of kickback or other problems. Lastly, one mistake I learned the hard way is that before I start the saw, I always make sure my work piece is backed away from it. Quite often I move it up to the blade before I turn the saw on to rehearse the cut. I left the workpiece against the blade once and when I started the saw it shot out. It's just a good thing to check - basic, but still very important.

[@DoubleplusUngoodthinkful]

I'm surprised you didn't mention using a blade guard. There are some nice ones that make using a saw a lot safer. My Grizzly table saw has a floating bilateral blade guard to protect my hands and spring-loaded forward-facing teeth to quickly arrest any board that would be ejected. Also, push sticks are great, but there are also over-top pushers that seem to allow more control of the stock being cut. I don't have one yet, but they look pretty good and pretty safe.

[@wayneyadams]

Almost every woodworking video on KZbin shows cuts made without the blade guard. Maybe it's a guy macho thing, they don't want to look like wusses using blade guards.

[@DoubleplusUngoodthinkful]

@@wayneyadams Well, everyone I have ever met missing fingers from woodworking accidents looks like a total badass. I don't aspire to that kind of badassery, though.

[@wayneyadams]

@@DoubleplusUngoodthinkful Badass or not, their fingers are missing. It's like the idiots from up north here in Florida who walk around in shorts and short sleeve shirs when it in the 40s. They think they are bad asses, but we laugh at them and comment on what idiots they are for not realizing it's cold.

[@DoubleplusUngoodthinkful]

@@wayneyadams LOL. You'd probably laugh at me then. I just moved to FL from CO. I wear shorts until it gets down to about 45. Short sleeves down to 40. Cause yeah, it's not really cold when you're used to ZERO or lower in the winter. A 45 degree day in February in CO IS a shorts day. I enjoy the 55-65 range here, especially when it's humid.

[@phillambert8472]

Had my first kickback ever a week ago. Luckily only cutting 1/8" MDF for a picture frame backing. Took my eye off the job for a nanosecond when my dog entered the workshop. I still haven't found that piece yet, as it went flying past me. When I'm finished with the saw, I wind down the blade, put the fence over it, then put my safety gear and push stick and Microjig on the table so as to remind me to use them! I'm a newbie at 63 years of age, and kinda like my fingers and hands, so am very respectful and cautious using any motorised equipment. Even so, I had to change my underpants after the above event! 🤣 Great video and advice 🙌

[@manleyhall5368]

As someone who has had over fifty years experience with table saws, radial arm saws, miter saws, saber saws saws, circulat saws , and band saws, I concur with everything you demonstrated about table saws. My late father suffered serious finger injuries many years ago when I was just a small boy. That impressed on me the need to be very careful, especially with table saws. As a teenager I cut the flesh on my left thumb and index finger when reaching over a short board that I was ripping when it hit a knot and kicked the board back. Fortunately because I would only have the blade protruding barely 1/4 " above the stock, the wounds were only flesh wounds that healed in time without even evidence of the injury. Though my actions were not entirely correct, at least one factor prevented a horrific injury. I was fortunate and have never forgotten that incident . It has stuck with me to follow safety procedures with table saws. Another safety precaution when using a table, avoid conversations with bystanders during a procedure. Years ago during two separate incidences, the foreman at the cabinet shop where I was employed cut the ends of each of his thumbs when trying to converse with friends who came in the shop while he was operating a table saw. As he looked up as the person each time the tip of one his thumbs passed through the blade. ago

[@katyi.6276]

Watching this to learn better habits after a careless error on my table saw landed me in the ER last week. Even though the saw is off, your examples of how you can hurt yourself (particularly around the 8 min mark) have me sick to my stomach and shaky. I'm fortunate my injury was minor, I can't handle thinking about just how bad it could have been. Thanks for the tips.

[@rizzidepizzi]

I'm reading really positive comments here and for the most part this video is very informative. One thing I'm really missing here and that's the use of a riving knife! How in the world can you make a video without one of the most safe things to use on a table saw?!! Especially for beginners.. I've learned the hard way and was very lucky to escape with only 5 stitches in my chin. Which could easily have been my throat or eye. I'm no where near an expert, but I can consider myself experienced with 13 years of woodworking. So please: If anyone reads this, use one, it really is a life saver!

[@keithstead5175]

Fantastic safety video. You explain WHY we shouldn't do things, and illustrate what can happen if we do. I always learn new things from your channel, even though I've been a DIYer for many years. Thank you so much.

[@WTFisAuserFRCKINname]

Thank goodness I instinctively knew all this because I’m safety-minded; but it’s great to see someone with good experience to show why I was right to be hesitant. I can use this to teach my boy in the future. God bless you for caring about people you don’t know.

[@jonathancohen8879]

kudos to the honest Carpenter for a very well photographed and clear video about tablesaw use and safety. As a professional furniture maker of 47 years, and the Director of a school of fine woodworking, there’s a lot of value in this video. I would have to say there about 20 or 30 other things that I should be think should be included in this video that would ensure more safety. for example, several times during the video you stop using the push stick and leave the piece you’re cutting between the saw blade which is still spinning and the fence. You should never ever leave a piece of wood between the spinning saw blade and the fence. A piece of wood should be pushed all the way through. A very inexpensive piece of insurance: we teach all students to always have a new pencil with a new eraser sitting next to the fence should you need it. It has to be new, so the eraser is still gummy and so the pencil is still full length. It acts as a surrogate finger but one you don’t have to worry about if you feel the urge to push small chunks away from the blade. Happy to answer any comments about that..

[@Rick_B]

A riving knife will prevent you from pinching the cut on the back, and I never use my tablesaw without it.

[@mrnelgin]

As a new and first time table saw owner, this is valuable information that seems common sense when you know better, but not always if you're a bit of a neophyte. Thanks for sharing.

[@csimet]

I'll add one (#13) you may have missed... when using a push stick with larger pieces in particular, you should actually push that material on its edge closer to the blade rather than next to the fence. Pushing next to the fence may leverage/twist the front of the piece towards the blade's backside (and cause kickback), where as pushing it closer to the blade side leverages it up against the fence away from the blade's backside.

[@lastdaysofhumanity4114]

Thanks to comments like these i can now understand why when I was doing my frist run throughs (with saw off) I was pushing the material and kept easily moving out of the fence towards the blade. I was pushing almost literally toughing the fence with push stick. This is my first table saw too so learning as much as possible is what i need.

[@BrianJChagnon]

I’m 42 years old and am just getting into woodworking. Just purchased a new band saw, router, router table, drill press, and table saw. The table saw is the one thing that puts the fear of god in me when I use it and this video is amazing advice for everyone that uses them. I would say most people probably think I am over cautious when using a table saw, but I’d argue there is no such thing. Saving 10 minutes of time over the course of an entire build is not worth the risk of losing a finger, hand, or worse. No matter how many times I use it, every time I turn my table saw on I respect that one stupid mistake could turn into a disaster. Great advice my friend!

[@user-ov7su1lg3h]

You've pointed out some potential dangers to this neophyte. Some real eye-openers. Great video. Safety first. I've had a couple of scares with that kick-back. It really is astonishing how dangerous carelessness can be. Thank you, Professor Donthertyerselph.

[@tfrogginhfroggin]

Very good. This is the one tool I dread using. I know too many folks who have lost fingers and thumbs. It is crazy how fast your hand gets pulled in...fingers/thumb are gone before you can react.

[@Cobra-vq6qr]

Always set blades based off how much finger you want to lose. That's what the carpenter who trained me said. I don't want to lose much finger so my blade almost always JUST PEAKS out of the board. Blade depth is also a great way to tell if you are flexing(leveraging) the cut.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Dang, that’s a good tip! 😅

[@John-gj1jr]

I see your point and I don't run my blade much higher than the gullets anymore, BUT I think a low blade is much more likely to kick a piece back at you. However, a lot depends on how the kickback started, or rather what cause it. I never had a kickback until I started lowering the blade. I wore two nasty bruises after lowering mine. Not saying you're wrong, but there are two sides to this, in my opinion.

[@geoffkoy9269]

@John I completely agree with you there. A higher blade contacts the timber in a downwards motion, whereas a lower blade is, more or less, pushing back towards you. I'm afraid I am 1 of the naughty woodworkers that sets the blade a reasonable amount above the blade. Never had kickback. I guess it is a personal preference. That being said, I have made cuts with a low blade. I just don't feel comfortable doing it

[@John-gj1jr]

@@geoffkoy9269 I'm leaning again to a higher blade. Due an accident years ago that could have been much worse (5 stitches) I am very aware of the blade and use 2 push sticks especially on small pieces. Never had a major kickback until I lowered the blade, then had 2 in rapid succession.

[@arthurleathblountii7060]

That protects you from nothing. Maybe you should have been trained by a woodworker not a carpenter. My recommendation is to set up a stack dado that isn't a through cut. Then tell me about fingers. This guy is a weekend birdhouse builder.

[@yeanurrahman2104]

Now realizing how dangerous DIY projects can turn out at any unfortunate moment. There should be no fooling around with these sort of mechanical devices. Several days ago, I made a table saw by a drill machine without the fence and tested couple of wood cutting which came with so much vibrations and probable kickbacks. Since I was illiterate back then, I can now come to senses I was playing with merciless blades. I can't thank you enough! You pour us with so much valuable safety information. ❤❤❤❤❤The lesson I draw is safety concern are never to be discounted!

[@josephkerkau2520]

As an owner of my own woodshop and business.. I feel that what you're saying is absolutely true!! Because I have a lot of equipment and I pay attention to what I'm doing with it, safety is always 1st..

[@Partysize2]

I liked your video very much, Good advice! One thought I'll share is about blade height. Like you, I try to keep the blade as low as possible. However. the more blade you have UNDER you stock while cutting, the more pushing force the blade has against the stock. That is the force driving the stock back against your feed direction. Especially when it comes to thicker stock, I tend to put the blade a little further above the stock. I also use a push device that goes flat down on the stock for several inches and has a firm handle grip a safe distance above the blade.

[@thirdsin7754]

You talked about binding, but didn't mention your riving knife being removed and why it probably isn't a good idea for anyone needing to watch this video...?

[@gsteel9408]

It’s all worth watching over and over from different people. One person may say it in a different way and that could make the difference between understanding it or not. Thanks for the safety talk, done very well.

[@cg2000cg1]

#13 use a blade guard... 😁

[@JohnSmith-ld1pw]

Mistake#13: NOT USING YOUR RIVING KNIFE!!!! Ethan, this was a safety video and yet almost none of your cuts shown had the riving knife in place. I know you have it because I actually saw it once!

[@larsthe3rd726]

Hi. Useful tips there. However, one question about your last tip; lower the blade as much as possible. I understand that exposing a blade more than necessary could create obvious risks. On the other hand, a blade fully rised, will it not bite down on the workpice more, keeping it more secure towards the table, and directing the thrust in a more downward position? And likewise, a blade barely exposed over the workpiece, will it not direct thrust more horizontal and in the direction of the operator? I personally try to find a balance between the two, as I have experienced the workpiece to «float on top» of a low blade, possibly due to more surface area of the blade in contact with the wood, and du to lack of enough downforce. ..In my experience.. What do you think?

[@curtisfulton1442]

Another awesome video, it always great to get a refresher on stuff like this , especially with people that have done for so long and they tend to forget the basics.

[@andrewbieger5004]

Great stuff. You have illustrated WHY several common mistakes should be avoided (items not really spelled out in other YT videos), as opposed to just stating the list. I would add one item to the list: Don't rip short boards. Personally, I don't rip anything shorter than about 16", because the riving knife/ splitter is useless in that condition. I also like the longer push blocks (John Heisz or William Ng style) with a short heel over the 'chicken foot' style illustrated here. Using this style PB keeps pressure DOWN on the rear of the workpiece, which drastically reduces the possibility the rear of the piece lifts and kicks back. Boards are RARELY flat, or untwisted, and can easily lift. YMMV, just my $.02. Steve Ramsey's videos on the subject dovetail nicely with yours. The Microjig Gripper is a pricey, but great investment to address many of the issues presented here, and MUCH cheaper than a bunch of stitches at the Em. Room.

[@jmackinjersey1]

Pro tip: if you are making cross cuts, put the longer side of the board against the fence, and make sure you are cutting the shorter side/end off. this helps reduce the chance you will "twist" the board and possibly bind the blade or have a nasty looking cut.

[@jackspeer2127]

Been a hobby WW about 3 yrs. One and only kickback earned me 3 stitches to the stomach. Totally my fault for not respecting the 1/8" plywood. About 30" X 30" Figured it was too light to be any trouble. Problem is that as it passed thru the blade path, the piece relieved some stress and she curled up and that let the back teeth grab it. I saw it curling but treated it like it was a piece of paper so continued. Good vid, thanks.

[@ST-0311]

The biggest mistake you can make is NOT USING RIVING KNIFE! A table saw demonstrating all kinds of bad cutting techniques with no riving knife in sight for any of them... Whatever. Table saws are designed to make crosscuts cuts completely safely, and not just "Long straight cuts." "Mistake" #4 is a non-issue as every table saw can make a crosscut without making a crosscut jig. Every table saw comes with a miter gauge for crosscutting. Rather than demonstrating what not to do, perhaps demonstrate the perfectly acceptable way of doing it correctly.

[@csavage1947]

Thank you for a very useful tutorial on table saw safety. I especially applaud the fact that you show the potential results of each mistake.... I think "war stories" such as these are the best way to convey tool safety. As a general contractor with way too many trips to the emergency center with cut hands, nail gun penetrations, etc., I think that illustrative horror stories at tail gate meetings and during lunch breaks are the best way to convey the serious dangers of power tools.

[@ghoey4118]

Safety First. No Shortcuts. Respect the tool. Very good instructional feature.

[@PastorChanceH]

I’m a beginner woodworker and just got my first table saw. Haven’t even taken it out of the box yet. This was super helpful. I always wondered why guys on KZbin were using crosscut sleds. Now I get it. Thanks for the video!

[@matthewrhoades5156]

This is a great instructional video! I really thought I knew what I was doing with a table saw until an ugly kickback left me with a really bad horizontal bruise across my abdomen. I did not know the table saw had that much power. I really pay attention now and let the saw do all of the work. Thanks for posting this!

[@grannydeen1586]

Pretty good info. As a carpenter/woodworker since the '70's we didn't have KZbin to help us along the way. Of course we had books and journals which were extremely useful and they still are. I would add a couple of notes here. Learn how to make comfortable push sticks. I jig saw mine out of scrap lumber, plywood and particleboard. I make a bunch at a time so when one gets cut up I chuck it and grab another one. Narrow rip cuts are inevitable. Make zero clearance table inserts or buy some from your table saw's manufacturer or an aftermarket source. A crosscut sled is also a great tool. Find plans for one that best fits your needs and build it. You'll never regret it.

[@santinho212]

Thank you for this very educational video my table saw is my most respected power tool .I always have the habit of rehersing a cut before especially if it is new cut technique to me and if it doesn't feel right that's a no no for me.

[@GlenMarcusen]

Great, thorough and clear safety videos! One comment about blade height when cutting thin, 1/8"-1/4" panels (thin plywood, luan etc.) since the panels are springy and flexible it is very easy for them to ride up on the blade on a low set blade (1/2" above the panel or so) and can be thrown violently to the side, taking flight in a horrifying way. My Dad had an example nailed to the wall of his woodshop as a reminder to his students. There was a huge blade gouged arc on the bottom of a thin panel that flew helicopter-style into drywall 8ft away entirely penetrating the wall and stuck out into the other room. The plywood piece narrowly missed several students working on other machines. Heads could have rolled-literally. In this particular case, a higher than normal blade height seems reasonable. The higher blade has the height to accommodate some unexpected chatter or warpage and won't hop up and ride over the blade. Do you agree? Many Thanks again for your thoughtful videos.

[@abelsaldana6392]

New to wood working and I'm heading out to buy my first table saw. I made sure to watch several videos on table saw safety, including this one, before I get wrapped up in the excitement of a new tool. God, Mistake #6: Failure to catch out-feed had me screaming in terror. When you said, "Can you imagine what a table saw blade will do to your hand when you push down at it with all your weight" I pulled away from my screen cringing with my eyes closed. Excited to buy a new tool that will hopefully increase efficiency but I will not be taking any shortcuts.

[@abelsaldana6392]

I commented before even finishing the video and somehow, the examples got worse...

[@anthonyromeo5960]

Iam an amateur. Doing small projects, THANK YOU, LEARNED ALOT👍

[@mdtcomm1533]

#14 Rookie mistake-always make sure there is tons of room ALL the way around the saw. Years ago I was splitting many two by fours in half in a small room and using two exit doors to get the extra length, but there was very little room beside the saw. When you turn around your arm has a tendency to swing, which could easily hit the blade, especially if you have taken the guard off to split the two by fours. Not good especially after you have just installed a new tungsten blade. 😮 I was in a very remote locations, so I did not have the luxury of going to the local hardware store to buy the wood. All I had were two by fours. Great video by the way!

[@cocospatra]

As an amateur diyer i have done many of these mistakes. An now i realised that the failure of right cuts was because of these mistakes. Thanks a lot

[@williamguzman6037]

New at wood working Best table saw safety I have watched Thank you Very much greatly appreciated.

[@randyriley3860]

Thank you. It's good to hear some serious warnings for the hobbyist (speaking of myself) who might not anticipate some very serious risks of cutting boards. Can't thank you enough for sharing some very serious information.

[@jonasvaleisa]

All tips are very helpful. Even though I started using my table saw after watching multiple videos on KZbin, I still find your video very useful. It's easy to forget some of the basics when you're in a hurry (which by itself is a no no), or when working alone with bigger stock, or some weird shaped pieces. One thing which is also very important is to keep in mind that the lumber might be twisted, cupped, bowed etc., and this can also bind the blade during the cut (don't ask me how I know). Anyway, great video, thanks for sharing!

[@DennyVaughan-l2m]

Honest Carpenter - I really appreciate your 12 Mistakes to avoid. It was great. I could relate to each one. Your way of presenting these mistakes makes it easy to understand. I just bought a table saw and am so glad I went through your video before I ever turned on the switch.

[@dalatina911]

I just had a terrible kickback incident and nearly cut off my finger from the small piece of wood on the left side of the blade shooting back into my middle finger shattering the bone and blowing out the back of my finger behind my nail. So terrible (and extremely painful)!! After watching this, I now realize my mistake: I had been using my left hand to put pressure on the board thinking it would keep it straight on the fence. Thank you so much!

[@ChristyMichell-es6nu]

Hi all, needing some saw advice! In divorce I was left with a table saw, circular saw, and a mitre saw. I am handy and taking care of a home myself but I'm a beginning wood-worker and feel like I don't need all three especially since my space is small. What should I keep to make simple shelves, etc and have a tight station for everything I might need to do with the greatest ease? Any advice would be a great help!

[@MelkeinMaalla]

Thanks for the lesson, I wish I would have found this video when I bought my mini table saw. Some harsh critique here in some comments, but I think this video is super helpful. What was missing from this video and what I learned from another one is that you should always use the sliding fence for croscuts and the fixed fence for rip cuts. As a beginner I did not know this and using the wrong fence multiplies the likelihood of many of these problems. I broke my TS cutting the wrong fence/grain combination on hard wood, and it's power got weaker. Any ideas on fixng it? It is Proxxon FET, not a big power tool. I have tried re-attaching the blade and such, but would like to know if there is anything to try before I send it to a workshop for repair. ❤ Regarding the criticisms, I think the video provided 12 + 1 foundational aspects on the issues and even if something was missing or unclear, I think we should be grateful for those that we got, not bash the entire video and its creator. Also, I do not care if the person creating the video is a hobbyist or a pro as long as the content is useful. The comments that are constructive (like Tanda's) pointed further insight and complemented the video. Conclusion: these 13 mistakes are a must to know, but one should be humble and remember that one may still make other kinds of mistakes! I do not agree with the comment on rifing knife; if you need to cut lines that do not pass through the piece you cannot use the knife. Removing and re-attaching the knife is time consuming, and thus best removed in my case. However, if you take it off, you need to know all the stuff in this video because cutting is more prone to the tensions etc. explained here. Also, in my mini table saw the safeguard was big and prevented me to see what I cut, quite often bigger that the piece I was cutting. We have a huge table saw as well and there we keep the guard in place (although note to self: a mini saw can cut your fingers as efficiently as a big one). One thing more; Proxxon says the fixed fence is at a slight angle for purpose, to make sure the piece don't get stuck between the blade and the fence, what are your thoughts on this? Is this the case for other brands too? The size of the cut is determined by where the piece meets the blade. So if used like you demonstrate, not pushing sideways and the push always in front of the blade, it should not be a problem that there is a bigger clearance between the fence and the back end of the blade. However, if you don't know this and push from the side towards the fence, there will be more room for distortion and the likelihood increases.

[@johnyassouw]

would like to respond. I am missing a lot of very important messages. I do not hear you say anything about the riving knife, in fact I sometimes do not even see a riving knife with you, secondly you do not use a protective cover you do show that you can reach into the saw, but with a protective cover and this can be prevented ( just an example) and thirdly your guide, which can be properly set in different ways. with scallops the guide must be 1 cm beyond where the saw goes into the wood in full thickness , with shortening the auxiliary guide must be in front of the saw , to prevent the wood from getting stuck between the saw and guide . so I am missing a LOT of important points. I miss the most important to prevent all this in this video. I am a carpenter by profession and work daily with the table saw machine and circular saw. the video certainly improves. look forward to your response. Sincerely johny van assouw

[@gregO00O]

I just bought my first table saw. I watched this video before operating. Thank you, your content was well worth the watch!

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thanks Greg! I’ve got another one posting to my website soon too. 🙂

[@e-vd]

Excellent advice. I just purchased my first table saw, and I've been looking for this important safety education in YT. I appreciate your straightforward explanations and examples. Much appreciated!

[@QODQDJQ3232]

This video is very good. If you use the Kunlun tooth saw blade we developed, you can achieve higher results. The Kunlun tooth can make the upper and lower sides without chipping, bursting, or cracking.

[@dino.jay2007]

​@TheHonestCarpenter ... Ethan, I've viewed many of your videos, and you do a great job. Regarding table saw safety, you did miss some very Important safety points. 1. Instead of a push stick, consider using a push block like the Microjigger ... keeps you safer for nearly everyone of those cuts. 2. Consider a good featherboard like the Bow that keeps the work piece in line and prevents kickback; 3. As others have discussed here, use the riving knife and the blade guard as much as possible. Thanks and keep up the good work!

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you, Dino! All very good points. 🙂 I was trying to do sort of a baseline video here, how to manage virtually any table saw, regardless of accessories. But I will also cover everything you mentioned before too long!

[@dino.jay2007]

@TheHonestCarpenter ... that's awesome, Ethan!! Look forward to it!! The Microjigger and Bow featherboard are fairly reasonably priced too ... and besides, is $80 too much for a push block if it saves some fingertips or finger? 😉😁

[@TheWendyJohnson]

Thank you so much for taking time to share these tips! I just bought my first table saw and am watching as many safety videos as I can before firing it up. Thanks again!

[@hbat66]

As a new table saw owner, I really appreciate your providing this content!

[@StephenLoughin]

Great video -- a splitter or riving knife has been mentioned by others but another important safety accessory is a feather board. I use one almost all the time.

[@markb.1259]

EVERY Wood Shop teacher in America (if they still teach wood working in school) should show this video to their class!!! WELL DONE Ethan!!!

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thanks, Mark! 😄