USS Arizona by Trumpeter 1/200 Scale Build Video 16

Continuing with our Superstructure, part 2 dives into some more railing installation and special windows for the main bridge area.
We also take a quick look at our nearly finished display base.
This will probably be the last "easy" part of the build. As the forward Fighting Top is next. And the remaining details of the build are... well... details. Details take time. It is also summer out, finally. So my progress will regrettably slow for now. But keep a sharp eye out for the next update!
Music is by: The Midwestern
You can reach me at: [e-mail]

[@jzghostrider66]

I really enjoyed this series as much as the USS Missouri one. I really dig the way that you make your wooden dowel bases. That's pretty neat.

[@guitarman4242]

Tele looking good in the background. As is the ship....lol

[@user-wc3lk3qh3o]

Super work

[@darylwass5766]

Loved your 1/200 Arizona build. Liked it that much that l went & bought one for myself with all the bits & pieces & glues you recommend, too have a go at it myself. If it comes out looking half as good as yours l be happy with that. Love your videos on your builds l watch them regularly to help myself out & your hints & tips are great. After this build l was thinking of having a go at the 1/200 scale Hornet or Yorktown as l like aircraft carriers. P.s. l have a understanding wife like yours that has a interest in what l doing with my hobbies. 🙂👍👌 Happy modeling Daryl.

[@boomerdiorama]

I like the black supports for the hull (to base) instead of the "cliche" brass pedestals.

[@jeffhardick]

Damn...looking good....can't wait to see the finished project....and the detail you have added...WOW,makes the kit explode (pardon the pun lol)

[@usssaratogacv3lefevre978]

Great work! Your detail work is super.

[@andrealeighv1]

I know you've completed it but one trick I've done with the large windows is to use a piece of tape on the back of the part, then fill in the window with the clear testors window cement. Once it dries peel the tape off and you have nice clear windows. Have even used it on the windshield for a willys jeep and it worked amazing.

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

Oh yeah, I know. I just opted for the clear projector material because it was quick and easy. When it was finished, I was having a hard time even noticing that it was there. I felt like it was a good option for guaranteeing the desired result.

[@ecksmodels21445]

Looks good. Excellent job.

[@hobbytimewithpapadan8436]

Man this is an awesome build. Great job and I’m really enjoying it. Can’t wait until the next update. Papadan

[@Dirks_NUMA_Files]

That is wicked cool.

[@jeanmarcgalzy7747]

Magnifique travail mon ami Excellente partie 2 et de bonne explication 👍 Magnificent work my friend Excellent part 2 and good explanation I enjoy watching your video this is a pleasure for the eyes I am subscribed.!!!! And I would be proud to have you as subscriber too 👍👍👍

[@mpetersen6]

Nice bit of work. But it could be worse. You could be building a Fuso. Can you imagine what it must have been like if the ship was pitching and rolling in a heavy sea

[@BadBoyFLSTC]

That Testers clear will fill those windows. Just use a toothpick and lay it around the inside frame.

[@farklefuster6876]

I’ve used Elmer’s white glue for windows during my model railroad days

[@philip167]

Hi am thinking of getting the Trumpeter 03705 - 1:200 USS Missouri BB-63 but with some of the photo etch being brass what's the best glue to stick them to the plastic. also am using the Poly plastic glue but it's melting the plastic to fast is there any glue that doesn't make a mess on the kit

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

Hello! Try using Tamiya super thin glue for the kit. For the PE, use CA glue. Or try Gorilla Super Glue.

[@williamholmes9195]

Ben, I have a question for you and Nora. Was the lettering on the Titanic (bow and stern) white or gold letters?

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

Gold letters.

[@williamholmes9195]

@@TheMidwestModelShop Thanks, because the kit I am building has both, not sure why though.

[@klipsfilmsmelbourne]

Pennsylvania had similar bridge shape from nevada but extended design

[@andrewachterhof3198]

KidsFilms Melbourne it’s cause the Pennsylvania and Arizona are sister ships

[@JAMESMANHUNT9]

5 minutes a dremel tool with cutoff disk and sanding mandrel will take care of that

[@tomwilson7318]

Ben, I am wondering what adhesives you use. You seem to do a lot of gluing painted parts to painted parts. What do you use to do that. Thanks for the feedback.

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

Tom Wilson, I use CA glue almost exclusively. As long as your paint ad hears to the plastic, (make sure your parts are clean before painting) and it is properly cured, the CA glue will hold the pieces together.

[@tomwilson7318]

Thanks Ben, you have awesome videos. I have watched the Arizona build, the Bismark build and the WW1 Biplane build.

[@lusty444]

There’s a guy in another tutorial that can actually solder weld pieces like this together. It doesn’t look easy though.

[@sheldonpardy5812]

How do you paint installed pe. Brush or airbrush?

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

Sheldon Pardy I airbrush the big PE parts. All of the railing is done with a brush.

[@TheFrank365]

where are the deck railings all ships have them they are not even mentioned in the instructions

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

TheFrank365 good question. So if you watch all the videos you’ll see where they all go. The only reason I knew where to put them was the instructions for my Photo Etch set had them in it. But as far as the Trumpeter kit goes..... it is a serious short coming.

[@southernjeepand4x481]

im starting a 1/350 arizona, what exact navy blue/grey do i need? Keep up the work you made me want to do a Arizona bulid

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

I am using Model Master Navy Blue enamel paint.

[@southernjeepand4x481]

The Midwest Model Shop Oh awesome thanks

[@johngrace6679]

Ben, Love your videos-have you ever built or intend to build a wooden ship model?

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

John Grace yes I have built several wooden ships. I have one on the shelf right now, about 1/4 finished and another about 3/4 finished. They take a long time and a lot of planning... so those two kits have been on the back burner for a few years now... Eventually I’ll knock them out ; )

[@bilgerat7694]

That's one beautiful lady she's got the curves in all the right place's.

[@kcox3090]

I would have filled the port holes from the inside, as the excess is all over the place and sloppy looking. Especially if you wanted to add polished brass for the surrounds. Not impressed.