9 Tips For Buying Into Warhammer - How to NOT regret your early buys.

[@humantwist-offcap9514]

*Me with hundreds of models and 4 different armies* Hmm yes how can I make sure I don't make beginner mistakes getting into this hobby? Better listen carefully

[@humantwist-offcap9514]

Also: my major advice for beginners -paint-wise would be to avoid buying 30 shades of the same color. If you want to do highlights get a rich tone for a base color and use a good white or black to change the shade, and if you want to change the consistency you've saved so much money on layer paints you can grab some varnishes or contrast medium. -Have a testbed model(s)! doesn't have to be warhammer, just have something that you can test a spray primer and experiment safely if you are uncomfortable trying things out on your nice expensive models.

[@loganbrown2959]

Me with close to a few hundred models in 2 out of 8 or so armies… I’m sad and happy to say I’ve only been in the hobby for a year

[@joshfase9324]

Same here. These will be great tips for army 5.

[@omenmarin7903]

Yall got some problems buying models....... but thanks for the advice

[@santaclauseking]

​@Josh Fase highly underrated response!

[@oliver265]

For good cheap terrain go to a pet store and go to the reptile and aquarium section. Tons of caves, branches, castles, and other wacky stuff. Makes great terrain!

[@PyromaniaEnjoyer]

I’ve had a fish for two years and it died, know I have terrain 😊 Editing Pyro here: I didn’t expect you guys to like it so much 😅

[@PyromaniaEnjoyer]

And a fish salade

[@17vmrivas]

Holy shit that's a great idea, never thought of that, I'm barely getting to wh40k table top, looking at the terrain is expensive, never thought of a pet store.

[@stinky.pete.9506]

That’s gold 😂

[@pappaspanky]

Genius

[@jackmcfetridge]

My biggest thing for new hobbyists is to not be afraid of painting, you’ll only get better by starting and to be frank it feels more like a fill in the space coloring book than making your own full art, you don’t have to be creative, just color in the lines and you’ll be okay

[@kroothound]

This motivates my fear of failure ass

[@JeffPenaify]

man im just lazy i wanna get into 40k to play the game, im like shit i dont have the time to paint it too

[@Itsallover57]

I've often thought of it like an adult coloring book.

[@clinch4402]

And when in doubt, slap on a wash at the end!

[@armata_strigoi_0]

​@@JeffPenaify There's always commission painting. You're not just buying their skills, you're also essentially buying your time back. ...not that I'm shilling in any way due to my love of painting, of course lol

[@thefloridaman41]

#10.) Don’t build towards what’s good now. Probably the fastest way to ruin the game for yourself. Buy what you think looks cool, because by the time you assemble and paint your models the meta has definitely changed

[@xavierstegmeier8595]

All I know is the Nuerotyrant sure looks cool

[@magosmallen2973]

Ah yes, what I'm doing with Eldar right now. I built my first Eldar Jetbike, said, aight. And I am now working on 2k points of pure Jetbikes. Plus,2 hornets, but they're just more armored Jetbikes

[@ianzimmer1990]

if you want to play the loooong game, pick the worst units in the army. by the time you have them all painted (we never finish lol), GW will probably be boosting the crap units to move product

[@amovy031]

i know a dude who changes his army every edition update. everyone hates him because hes a super meta tournament sweat nerd. he doesnt have fun because nobody likes playing against him. he cant trade them in because theyre all painted. dont be like him

[@mrbigglezworth42]

@@magosmallen2973 Gotta go fast is indeed a valid strategy in 40k. I went all in with Wraith constructs with...mixed results. Looked badass on the battlefield though.

[@patchcoatgrey3434]

Model train shops are an ok source for cheaper tools. Most such places will have pin drills for decent prices, and the replacement bits are much more affordable

[@jorgemontero6384]

They'll probably also have good, cheap paint. My local train + gunpla shop has Vallejo and AK, including the vallejo metals and the AK pigments, at perfectly sensible prices. Milliput, Tamiya glue ... the kind of stuff where you will probably get better prices in store than online, as nobody has good prices online for buying just 2 pots of paint.

[@severdislike4222]

Hardware stores (Home depot, Lowes, Ace, and Menard's) will always have good enough tools for deburring, snipping, and cleanup. RPG focused stores often have great paint selections.

[@MunitionsDudTester]

The best side-nippers I've used so far are the cheapo ones from Hobby Lobby. They've lasted about 3 years now.

[@sterlingkuepfer9070]

My biggest recommendation is instead of a paper plate or tile for a paint pallet make a wet pallet. You can make one using an old sandwich container some paper towel and a piece of parchment paper (Tabletop minions has a video on it) and it'll make your painting life so much easier at such a minor extra cost

[@SockimusPrime]

Seconding this one. Tabletop Minions and Vince Venturella both have simple tutorials on how to build them. Wet pallets are essentially free - you almost certainly have what you need to make one in your house right now. They are even more free than rhinos.

[@Wabajck]

Do this. You'll waste so much paint (and thus money) using a paper plate

[@gregorde]

Yes. And buy an airbrush

[@Skinnyperegrine]

My advice is actually bite the bullet here and get a $20 wet palette, they're much nicer to use than home made ones imo.

[@savagex466-qt1io]

Its finding the proper parhment paper that is a nightmare for most people.

[@deifiedtitan]

Rule #0 - Don’t overcomplicate things. Get what you think looks cool, figure out how it works by doing. The hobby is full of people that like to (over)analyse; avoid this trap by just building thing, painting it, and playing games. Everything else is secondary.

[@santaclauseking]

A new problem then sets in if you think a lot of them are cool and you are then inspired to build armies for them. Like recently I found out about gloomspite gitz and think they're amazing to eventually build but I haven't even finished my Ogor maw-tribes or Daughters of Khaine armies. And that's JUST AoS. Rip my wallet. But yes, I completely agree.

[@chameleonedm]

For real, especially if there's a battle box or the like with stuff you think is cool as you're typically getting much more for your money

[@clinch4402]

@@chameleonedm For real what? Seeking value is apparently "overthinking". If you just went with what you thought was cool, you'd buy the individual unit without giving the additional ones a second thought.

[@chameleonedm]

@@clinch4402 I have zero idea how you've taken issue with my comment, seems like you just want to pick an argument for no reason

[@clinch4402]

@@chameleonedm Not really, not looking to ruin anyone's day. Sorry you didn't understand my comment. Have a good one.

[@CanonessEllinor]

Terrain tip addendum: just don’t buy terrain at all. Find a store or club that has terrain available to use and just play there. Getting out of the house is more fun anyway and you free up time and money to focus on your models.

[@CAMSLAYER13]

Making terrain is pretty fun, quite cheap and easy too.

[@rrwholloway]

Make you own. It’s a lot of fun and far cheaper

[@dangerouslycheezy5429]

but now you need fancy transport cases lol, id rather play at home, i can smoke weed and drink freely and cheaply. i get out of the house when i go buy the models i dont open lmao

[@JohnEgland]

All of my terrain is from like the Command Edition and Kill Team stuff.. Works great!

[@frogoree]

Just started playing, and this has been the best move. First time I played, we used kitchen and household items for terrain (and models). We started going to the local Warhammer store and just playing on their tables with tons of GW terrain to use for free. Gets me out and social and using nice things.

[@MunitionsDudTester]

- When gluing your models, plastic glue is going to weld your minis together, whereas regular super glued parts can be snapped apart after a few hours in the freezer. Useful for if you might want to re-base some models later or something. - Was briefly mentioned, but don't be afraid of getting into airbrushing. It is another small expense to add (roughly 80ish doll hairs for a little compressor off eBay and another 80 or so for a decent Iwata or rougly 120 for a nicer Badger) but it is well worth it and can save a lot of time and just adds to your kit of things you can do. - Magnetize things. You typically don't magnetize super small stuff (even though you can with the right tiny magnets) but don't hesitate to magnetize stuff if you might want to swap weapons on vehicles or something later, also getting into the habit of magnetizing bases helps with the next tip. One thing I would avoid is if you are going to magnetize small stuff, just magnetize and paint what you are going to be immediately using. Don't spend a ton of time magnetizing an entire kit's weapons if you don't plan on using them in the near future. It becomes a real drag lol. - Make your own transport boxes to move your minis. There are plenty of boxes you can use but I like the "really useful box" in the in the 4 liter A4 paper size. Then just super glue some magetic sheets (make sure they are at least 35+ microns thick. I made the mistake of buying 16 micron sheets) to the bottom and now your magnetized bases will stick and the boxes set on top of each other and kinda "lock in" and don't move and it makes transporting a breeze. 4 liter for troops, 9 liter is great for larger models/vehicles. Cheaper than pretty much every other option AND your nice paint job isn't rubbing on foam all the time. - Invest in a good light. Different temperatures of light are going to change how your paint appears, so invest a little bit of money in a task lamp (don't buy the tiny lights). Just make sure it is capable of a color temperature of 5000K (less than that and the light will be "warm"/yellow, higher than 5000k and your light starts to get "cool"/blue) and you're good.

[@alBoomer19]

What's a good starter airbrush?

[@Bluecho4]

Magnetizing is basically essential for Imperial/Chaos Knights. You're paying $100+ per model (less for the baby knights). Magnetizing gives you a lot more options for play, without needing to buy more Knights. There's doubtless many Knights fans on the internet who will tell you exactly what size magnets work best, and how to install them.

[@MunitionsDudTester]

@@Bluecho4 Exactly. I was thinking of knights while writing that segment haha

[@MunitionsDudTester]

@@alBoomer19 It is going to depend on your budget and what features you want. Iwata and Badger are two standout brands here in the US but there are plenty of good quality brands out there. Best advice is to look for miniature airbrushing videos on KZbin from people like Miniac where you can actually see the airbrush, its features, and see how it performs and then plan accordingly. The size needle you use (which is swappable and replaceable) will also dictate how fine the airbrushing will be so you can have different ones for small models, priming, base coating large vehicles, etc.

[@KolossusB]

@@Bluecho4 Yeah learning to magnetize in general is a real good money saver. Allows you to represent everything officially on table without having to buy a redundant amount of models.

[@CatCraine]

I'll echo a few things that's already been said, but I think they warrant repetition. 10. Kill Team is an excellent way to dip your toes into the hobby. It's a single box, less minis mean it's not as big of a hurdle to get everything ready, and it's fairly popular which means you'll find people to play with easily. 11. Try to paint your models to a battle-ready standard. Your first models will never look like the box art, they just won't. But, actually painting them up and bringing them to the table is still incredibly rewarding. Those are your dudes! 12. Be a little aggressive when playing! You got your team, everything is painted and ready, you're at the table about to start. I see a lot of new players hiding behind cover or scared to advance. Don't be afraid to trade a few models while playing. Unless you're playing a (hyper) elite team, part of the game is learning who and how to trade during engagements. Good luck and happy hobbying!

[@TheFrasdorf]

Tip for painting; you can mix your paints. You don’t need to buy specific one off colours.

[@CAMSLAYER13]

Extended tip. Try not to use a mixed colour for something you'll need a lot of, like your space marine basecoat.

[@clinch4402]

Not sure how good this tip is. Works fine for the odd character model, but how does it work for colour matching the rest of your army?

[@jeepowner2675]

you can mix paints but if you need to replicate the color in the future you better write down the ratios you used.

[@Snprphnx]

Exactly. You can buy the base color for your army, say Maccrag Blue, and for your edge highlights, instead of buying a whole bottle for a lighter shade, just add in a little bit of white

[@gregorycafiero9688]

​@@Snprphnx It's easier than that, even, do a wash and the model darkens, then you use the OG color as highlight. No mixing needed.

[@joshfase9324]

Tip number 10: Learn to 3D print or make friends with someone with a 3D printer. You’ll never want for extra bits or customizable pieces again. I’m the printer for my play-group, and I’ve saved people an insane amount of money. Take those extra legs, bodies, etc. and print the pieces you need to make additional complete models.

[@donnylurch4207]

My local library has a 3D printer and I've used it to print a small army of fanmade Imperial Guard as a side project from my GW Orks. It's not free but it's hella cheaper than ever trying to buy into official Guard!

[@joshfase9324]

@@donnylurch4207 SMH. How could you do such a thing? *Glances at my fully 3D printed demon army*

[@GrandNagusEli]

Came here to say that. Mars 3 costs about the same as the fancy Leviathan box

[@donnylurch4207]

@@joshfase9324 Haha it's about the only way to go if you want to run any regiment besides Cadian or a recolor like Penal. I went with an all-pinup girl army, but I'm looking at my Krieg kill team in progress and thinking a force of those would be pretty nice as well. Stationforge makes some good lookalikes.

[@clinch4402]

I'm a bit terrified to get into it, I live in a small flat with two cats and worry about the resin fumes. Sounds awesome though!

[@haroldtaylor6830]

My tip is when you do start to get models, just get something you think looks cool at the beginning. Cool models are always cool, rules come and go and one day might be good but that model is always going to look cool.

[@3Xero3]

Unless what you think is cool is Drukhari. I'd suggest learning on something a bit easier to learn. That's what I started with and it was difficult to try learning the game on what I found out later was one of the more complicated, glass-cannon factions.

[@savagex466-qt1io]

Yep I agree. Rule of cool is to cool. Im all for it.

[@cannonballbaker62]

START WITH A KILL TEAM. Kill Team is a fun secondary game you can play and the models are usable in full size 40k. Plus, you only have to build and paint 6-15 models. Its a really easy way to learn what you like/dislike painting before spending $150 minimum to find out you hate painting and building the army you thought you'd like.

[@3Xero3]

Lol Kill Team was the gateway that now has me dipped into at least 26 different factions.

[@deifiedtitan]

Start with an Underworlds warband. It’s 3-9 minis.

[@BowlofColdSoup]

Imperial Knights wanters: 🗿

[@GCLEM92]

Kill Team got me into 40K, in a little over a year I have almost 3 armies over 2k

[@EmonWBKstudios]

3 if it's custodes

[@discoooooooo]

What's annoying with tip #5 is that GW tools used to be really really good. The stuff I got back in like 2007 or 2008 are still going strong and tbh probably have been used more around the house than on minis.

[@frawgenstein8522]

I worked in a hobby shop in 2002 - 2004 and got the GW sprue cutters, they lasted all the way until last year.

[@incredibleflameboy]

Remember the old hand flamer paint sprayer they did? That was really bad. First time I used it and the aerosol sprayed all over my hand which gave me a load of freeze burns. I the basic tools were great it went downhill when they started branching out into more advanced tools

[@bearicade8464]

As the target audience, I wanna thank you guys for this. I’m gonna be jumping into the hobby once 10th comes out (likely picking Necrons btw) and information like this is so helpful.

[@atomictree5000]

I'm glad to see there are more people like me lol. 👍

[@Barrlounge]

To add to the Primer point: Hardware shops are good for cheap black and greys but car and motor service shops like Halfords (UK) are gold mines because they'll have spray primer for ALL colours you could need. It has saved me so much time and effort in painting.

[@brassviking486]

I'll add that if you have any model shops (tanks, aircraft and rc kind) they often have coloured primers geared towards models. They helped me get a decent yellow for my Iyanden back in the day.

[@thatguy9053]

When assembling and building Skittari models, do not immediately glue them together. Base and Paint the legs first. Then paint the cloaks(Especially the inside), paint the backpack, paint the arms with guns (Unless they don't conflict with painting them on the cloaks), and then paint the heads. Painting all assembled is a nightmare and a half when you see details you want to color-in but the model blocks you from trying to paint it.

[@jackmcfetridge]

I was literally just thinking about how I wanted to listen to a poorhamer podcast on my way to work, thanks guys

[@Bluecho4]

1. If you start with craft paint, as I did, spring for the $1.60 to $2 bottles. Don't buy the absolute bottom of the barrel paints, like you get in little pots as baby's first paint kit. You're getting what you pay for. Spending just a little more money per bottle will make a world of difference. (Craft paint is also just invaluable for painting terrain, or for jobs like painting base rims or dry-brushing. No one will notice if you Slap Chop your model using Folk Art grey, rather than model paint grey.) 2. If you want a wet pallet, you can just make your own. You don't need to buy a ready-made one. I use a plastic take-out container with a lid, that contains two sponges I bought from the dollar store. And then I just put parchment paper (non-waxed) on it. It works perfectly fine, so long as you top off the water every so often. 3. While on the subject, see if you can acquire any hobby tools from the dollar store/pound shop. I almost exclusively use brushes that come in packs of 3 for a dollar. They bend very easily, but they're cheap. You don't need to invest immediately into horse hair brushes you have to clean with brush soap. 4. Ask yourself what you goals are when you think about where you source your models. If you have no intention of going to a Games Workshop store or tournament to play, I highly suggest finding proxies. They're usually cheaper and often look way better, if the official version is really old. (I'm looking at you, Skaven Skryre Acolytes). Resin or metal is good for big centerpiece models or hero figures, but they can often be as costly as GW, per model. Though if your choice is between spending $170 for a Greater Daemon from GW, and $50 for a similar model 3d printed by someone on Etsy, the choice is obvious. The absolute best option for your rank and file are hard plastic kits, though, if your chosen army has proxies on the market. Imperial Guard is the most common for this, both using historicals and from manufacturers (like Wargames Atlantic) that make kits specifically for that purpose. Trust me, you don't want to spend full GW prices for Guard infantry, on anything but the most vehicle heavy, low-infantry lists. (As an aside, many manufacturers also sell conversion bits. So whether you're going all proxy or mostly GW models, you can kitbash to make them more to your liking. Though GW doesn't let you use even bits from other manufacturers in official company contexts now, so keep that in mind.) 5. Regardless of what army you get or where, it's a good idea to start with a "Kill Team" or similar. Before you even buy the big value set, get a box of your army's basic battleline troops. Or buy them second hand. Lots of folks start armies they never get beyond the assembly and priming stage. This is what we hope to avoid: you want to see if this whole "painting models" thing is even something you can or want to do. Try painting _A_ unit. If you can paint it to completion, pat yourself on the back (many people don't get that far), then reassess whether you found it an enjoyable or at least tolerable experience. Ask whether you'd want to do a ton more of that, or if you have the time in your schedule. If the answer is yes, THEN you can spring for the big beginner box. It's best to figure out your relationship to mini painting BEFORE you make a $100+ purchase. Even if you decide after painting one squad that this just isn't something you enjoy, you will have one Kill Team under your belt that you can run in skirmish games. 6. Speaking of big value boxes, it's important to examine the contents thereof and ask yourself if all of the contents are to your liking. Meta and mechanics change from edition to edition and even month to month. There's no accounting for how strong a unit is. What you CAN tell is whether a model or unit, aesthetically or conceptually, brings you joy. If you look at the contents of a value box and say, "I don't want this unit", consider that this might mean the box itself has less value _to you._ If it gives you no joy to own that model, subtract it from the functional "discount" you would get from the box. (Though it's perfectly fine to resell that model to recoup your losses, or kitbash it into something you actually like. If you bought 3 copies of the Grey Knights combat patrol, those spare librarians can be turned into something else with the right tools, bits, and imagination.) 7. While 40K is getting less complicated in 10th, you might consider beginning your game-playing journey by using your models to play One Page Rules instead. Not just because it's even more streamlined and uncomplicated, in many ways it's better than 40K. Because of elements that 40K refuses to embrace, like Alternating Activations. There's a reason GW seems intent on cribbing as much of OPR's homework as they can get away with for 10th ed. You may decide you like OPR well enough that you never make the jump to 40K. If not, you at least got some practice with this whole "wargaming" thing, in a low-effort and low-cost environment. (Did I mention One Page Rules is free? And even if you buy the rulebook(s) with more options, you're still only paying $5?) EDIT: 8. Consider making your own models from scratch. This works better for Chaos models, especially Chaos Spawn. Create a wire armature from paper clips or garden wire, layer on Milliput/Green Stuff or oven-bake clay (remember to do all the baking BEFORE you add any other materials). Make simple tentacles and gaping maws. Maybe experiment with sculpting simple features, if you have the tools (you can get most as hobby stores, like silicon sculpting tools). Texture it with bumps or scales, or make your own texture tools with clay/epoxy puddy stuck to old brush handles. You can add whatever spare bits you have, like spare arms or monster faces. You do not have to spend $55 for two of GW's official Chaos Spawn models. Just make an art project out of it. If it looks jank, that means it's a good Chaos Spawn. If nothing else, you'll have a cheap model for the tabletop, and have learned skills that will make future, targeted kitbashes easier. (There are also many tutorials for sculpting out there on the web).

[@IrisDImtv]

Thanks for such in-depth. Underrated comment!

[@Mark-hu7iu]

I painted one model and instantly spent $200+ on adepta sororitas alone lmao

[@kris220b]

friend of mine is getting back into 40k minis after like, 15 years, we are going to a hobbystore tomorrow so this episode came out just in time

[@kuba14059]

How it's going with your friend? Did he/she lost already all the paychecks?

[@kris220b]

@@kuba14059 well first of all, the genius forgot his bag of minis, paints and tools on the bus so had to spend like 3 days getting it back he then proceeds to complain that scions are too difficult to assemble, while not fully reading the instructions he asked me if you can sprayprime indoors in an apartment and in his own words: why did no one warn me minis are mini i think he has managed to assemble 2 scions, and then he gave up on reentering the hobby man has fatfinger syndrome and ADHD, so not sure why he thought getting back to minis was a great idea

[@kuba14059]

@@kris220b It's always to worth trying something new

[@kris220b]

@@kuba14059 or something old in this case

[@RaptorianxdReviews]

The terrain one is so important. I played my first six games of 40k with wooden houses from Amazon for like twenty bucks that were made for dioramas, they came in brown and unpainted, and I just broke them so they would be ruins. Another great video, always brightens my day when I see a new upload

[@thomaskunz8553]

So fun fact, while teaching some friends warhammer I was able to chat with an old guard Official GW Store Manager and he told me LGS stores are expressly not allowed to PUBLICLY advertise more than 15% off GW prices. Its why 15% off MSRP is the universal standard.

[@clinch4402]

Could you elaborate on this? Does that mean they can privately give more than 15% off somehow?

[@thomaskunz8553]

@@clinch4402 things like discount tables get around it, gotta go into the store to see the deal. Or some stores will do rebates as a part of an rewards system that can be redeemed for flat discounts store wide that sort of thing. It's not a secret discount it's an incidental one that GW can't police.

[@clinch4402]

@@thomaskunz8553 Thanks, I'll do some more research!

[@goo_goose1]

Called MAP, minimum advertised price

[@someone1999]

If you’re starting a new army, start with what seem like the “core” units with their traditional load outs. If you see lots of certain guys in the art, take those guys, armed as you see them. Many editions ago, I went to great expense to build a certain type of troops from my codex, and, of course, when the new codex dropped that option was just removed from the game. Ouch.

[@MarketResearchReading114]

I agree start with a kill team. Find out if model painting is even a thing you can do. An army is huge. If Kill team is good for you and you've gotten into painting and figured out how to paint a unit, then you'll have learned a lot, and as kill team is a smaller unit you can spend your time really trying to stretch your skill in painting...and not feel like you're falling behind.

[@brionl4741]

While you're at Home Depot picking up your primer and tile, grab a couple of the wooden paint stirrer sticks. Stick your nekkid models to those and then spray the primer.

[@andrewmurphy9038]

I’ve been listening to your 40K lorecast. For someone who doesn’t know anything about Warhammer, you guys make it really fun to learn about love the banter keep it up.

[@TheFurrLord]

I want to recommend not buying essentially an entire army in a short time. I got into actually buying models back in 5th edition because I made a joking pact with myself that I'd pick up models if Dark Eldar ever got any new ones (since I kind of expected them at the time to kind of fade away into obscurity or be squatted out). I ended up buying a massive amount of DEldar with my friends also picking up a bunch of stuff. I acquired sooo many grey models that my pile of shame to paint became so heavy on my mind I ended up not doing so for 10 years. I had like maybe two squads painted until I wanted to get into some other armies and forced myself to power through what I had to get painting experience/practice. If I had just done a measured approach of buy a box, assemble, and then paint it I probably would have been more effective in going forward with actually painting them.

[@Blank_Immortal]

As someone who has a couple of grey armies lying around (looking at you grey knights and orks) I second this. Buy, build, paint repeat, (Sorry for necro’ing this lmao)

[@EddyOfTheMaelstrom]

I am such a lover of minis, that i have never regret a purchase. I know most people value their money more than i do, but it's literally my only hobby. I love having so many unopened boxes because it means i will never run out of things to build and paint. Ill buy cool characters just because they're cool in a book i read, or just cool in general. I believe if you love the hobby as much as I do, never let yourself regret your purchases, and keep TRYING to get them all done. Even if they wont end up in an army, enjoy the love of the hobby.

[@clinch4402]

It sounds like a great lifestyle for you, but please be very careful when trying to make spending sprees sound appealling to those who may not be able to afford it. I am absolutely baffled when I hear how many of my fellow hobbyists have nothing in the bank despite having unopened boxes. Something is seriously wrong in those cases.

[@GloomGaiGar]

as long as you don't spend your money collecting boxes

[@GenralG7]

Another example of the Kaballite warriors thing is Nurglings. They come in boxes of 3 but each model is actually 3 layers of Nurglings, not gluing them together and just buying extra bases means you turn a single model into 3 models, so a box can make 9 Nurglings.

[@Bluecho4]

See also classic Ripper Swarms. The current kit literally has each Ripper as a separate piece that you glue together on a base. You can just put fewer of them on each, and get a bigger swarm.

[@Illindi]

14:30 - Army Painter starter tool set had a nice pair of clippers, a small drill and a modelling tool which is perfect for moldlines. Cheapest buy there is and with actual useful tool. As for a palette, a shallow food bowl with a lid, a flat thin sponge(sometimes used as dish cloth) and baking paper(the kind you put on top of a oven plate), cut to size - cheap AF wet palette. As for paints, watch videos while you paint and learn the techniques. The different makes do have different properties. Each to their own on this one.

[@Mabufu381]

When buying paints: Buy your base colours first. If you want citadel colours, buy all your base paints for your model that the colour app suggests you. Base paints are really good. Buy Nuln Oil/Agrax Earthshade (clean or dirty respectively) and the paint screaming skull (a light cream colour) if you wish to do layers highlights. Screaming skull will mix into any base to make the perfect highlight colour (Even eavy metal uses this paint for that on like 90% of their inhouse recipies, and this is also what 90% of the Edge paints gw sells are). After youve done a tester you like with those paints, go back and find your convenience colours. If you layered up with a lighter blue on a lot of the model, and had to mix it, that might be one you need. If you only used that last highlight a teeny bit, you can probably live with mixing that until youve got more necessary paints. You dont need 40 browns! If you arent a fan of gw paints or other options are easily accessible for you, repeat this with vallejo, probacryl (not army painter, friends dont let friends buy army painter) still buying nuln oil or agrax earthshade.

[@willkupronis2934]

To add on to the kitbashing one. Most armies have a command squad or veteran type kit that has a bunch of bits to bling out you models. Its a lot cheaper to bling out a squad seargeant than to pay $30-40 for 1 character model. A good example is the indomitus captain and lieutenant. Theyre both really nice models but theyre basically just blinged out bladeguard.

[@ViolosD2I]

This is another reason Orks are great, because it's all in the lore. Want a kombi weapon that also shoots rockits? Well just strap a launcha on it, ya git! Want to be more bossy than the guy with the totem? Get some bigga totems!

[@honoratagold]

Comments: - *Mix colors!* You don't need to buy five greens. You can mix your green, blue, yellow, white, brown, and black to get a variety of greens. - You *can* use craft paint in a pinch, it's just more work. I got the important colors for my first color scheme in mini-specific paints, but use tiny amounts of craft paint to mix colors and for dry brushing. - Double-sided tape or sticky-tack on a prescription bottle is the perfect paint handle. - You can make your own wet palette out of a sponge in a tupperware with a piece of parchment paper on top. - There are also companies like TTCombat that do MDF terrain, which is another option for non-GW terrain. - Basing material like flocking is often cheaper from model train suppliers than gaming miniature suppliers.

[@Bluecho4]

You can also make your own basing material from common materials. I often make basing paste from sand, PVA glue, water, and paint. Though in my current project, I'm just putting glue on the base and sprinkling different sizes of sand, to be faster. Rocks can be done using fuller's earth. (You can buy it really cheap as odorless cat litter. The bag will list the ingredients as just "Fuller's Earth". A filled a small container with some from that bag, and it's more basing rocks than I'll ever need.)

[@Barrlounge]

To add to the Terrain section: those places are great for city and building but finding natural terrain like rocks and trees can be a pain. My solution? Aquarium rocks and formations. You can easily find nice big set pieces that are waaaay cheaper and already come prepainted and prepared. You can also buy bags of smaller ones for basing or making your own craters out of.

[@HeavysproutJCampbell]

Guys, this was great. 50 year old, who just picked up his first codex, just for fun, and now slowing my roll until I watch a few more of your videos to help this entry-level player figure out how to avoid some of the pitfalls of starting 40K. Thanks.

[@Diamon_Boots]

Some more examples of the "using people that are meant to go on vehicles as actual models" are the two skitarii gunners that come in the skorpius box, especially since they would be entirely covered if you built it as the tank instead of the transport, and the extra guardsmen crew some artillery pieces come with, you even get some of them that wouldn't look out of place in a command squad.

[@batshit36]

A great little party to remember is, if you build a gunner, keep the pistol grips for other things lots of kits have big machine guns that are meant to be mounted, and you don’t always have to build the gunner with two hands on the weapon to ad some variation

[@nw42]

Hey, this is great! I’m fairly new to 40k and have really been enjoying the lore, but getting into the actual game has seemed like a… _questionable life choice._ I’m honestly still on the fence about it, but this video provides some reassurance that it might not be _total_ insanity, and hacking around GW’s unconscionable markups sounds like it could be a fun hobby in its own right. Anyhoo, I guess I’m a subscriber now. Thanks!

[@batshit36]

A good way to paint I don’t see in a lot of tutorials is; figure out what’s the most sunk in part of your model, after priming it start there, don’t start with the blue of the ultramarines power armor or the cloak, start with the hidden tucked away bits and work your way out, if you make a mistake, and you will even professional painters make mistakes, just go back one step. and realize that no one is going to see certain Angles of the model on table top, like armpits, crotches and the side of the weapon that’s hugged against the guys chest are prime candidates to skip on when detailing

[@TheRedSweater]

My favorite pallet I ever used is a small 4x6 picture frame from a dollar store. It's just a pieces of glass with a thin plastic edge. It's so easy to clean and small enough that it never gets in my way.

[@ChimaeraTom]

I'm still fairly new to the hobby but i have a few tips from my first 3-4 months or so. My first Palette was a rectangular plastic blister pack trimmed down, was great to get my first few models done. Currently, I'm using a white-gloss ceramic bathroom tile. I found an online store that sold test tiles in singles for 99p with free delivery! ($1.23 ish). My light is a 12 year old Ikea desk lamp that was gathering dust in a cupboard since Uni, does the job. "Painting handle" is a strip of cardboard (free with every online order) rolled into a cylinder, sellotaped with blu-tac on the end. Citadel Paints and Tools set was a brilliant way to get started! Only real "Value Box" for paints in my opinion. But that's UK prices... Also to bash Citadel again, I'd avoid their brushes to an extent. The Layer Brush was crap, nasty hooked tip after 5 models, use it to mix paint and stipple etc. The Base Brush L is decent, and the Dry Brush M isn't too bad but I'd recommend spending a little bit more on some decent budget brushes. Rosemary & Co are genuinely amazing by comparison and cost about £10 a brush. Pace your purchases! Everyone is gonna ignore this and I'm guilty too but buy a box at a time, don't splash out on a 1000pts plus or you will get overwhelmed, even my Grey Knights Boarding Patrol was a bit intimidating at first, especially after the push-to-fit recruit edition.

[@thehungrylittlenihilist]

I really like the Army Painter line. Their paint sets are a decent enough value I think, especially since they come with a ball bearing in the bottle now. There are cheaper options but I like them. Plus i still use the goblin green for bases and I like theirs.

[@bluedotdinosaur]

AP paint is great. One of the good things about their line is doesn't suffer from bloat. They have worked out a good range of colors that coordinate well with one another, without having 20 slightly different shades of green. But their line still contains some nuanced shades that other brands lack. It's true you can learn to mix your own colors, but at least with AP you can't really over-purchase unnecessary shades.

[@ratman505]

Kitbashing and converting is an absolutely amazing way to start with Kill Team. You have what amounts to a collection of characters, all of them being decently unique, so all being worth more effort than Assault Intercessor #12, also the boxes are always out of stock. If you want to try out kitbashing and proxying, maybe this is the correct starting point

[@Walpurgisnackt]

My warmachine group all used for terrain little mats with like a forest print on them or a top down image of a crater. I forgot the company that made them I never got them myself. What I really appreciated was how easy it was to put models in the "forest" that didn't have trees sticking out of it to fit them around

[@bluedotdinosaur]

That sounds like Hidden Forest Gaming. They make the neoprene templates for different game systems, and made a complete line for Warmachine / Hordes.

[@alexdanke133]

Great video! I just got back into WH with my son and haven't played since I was a kid. The terrain and books is what blows my mind. For some terrain I would say look for a nice cheap FDM printer. If you want to go through a lot of different set ups and don't mind the investment it's worth it. Things have came a long way then using a green sheet over stacks of books to create hills and using some cardboard cut outs for buildings.

[@clasthemarksman7529]

If you're impulsive at times like I am I have 2 tips that should save you some money and spare some models from the pile of shame. 1. Always wait at least a few days before making a purchase unless you're absolutely sure you want it, aka if you're expanding an army you have by adding 1 unit to it. If it's a new army or a big purchase ALWAYS wait a little. That new model's allure may just fade after a day or two and you'll be relieved you didn't go for it. 2. If you like the models and the game I would say make sure you like both your army aesthetic and how they play. You don't want a shelf-sitting army you really like the look of simply gathering cobwebs or an army you use but just don't feel very passionate about at all. There are enough factions to ensure that one should fit both boxes.

[@8-7-styx94]

1A) Tell Timmy he needs a timeout...

[@40-forty-plus]

For terrain, the option I went for was UpZone popup terrain boxes. Solved two problems

[@SuperRADLemon]

Brand new to the hobby, so I really appreciate this info before I begin purchasing. Thanks for the video. Too bad I'm in Canada, so a single vile of titanium white seems impossible to get without crazy shipping lmao 😭

[@hatimzeineddine8723]

Ok but the little model grips are actually so nice

[@MrForelone]

This has been a huge help. Bought a 9th edition command edition starter box last year and have been playing with unpainted minis and terrain with my brother. I've been terrified to actually start painting. You guys are gonna save me alot of money and made me a lot more confident when approaching the hobby.

[@halffin64]

something I figured out is if your not in love with all the models in a discount box it's often better to get 2-3 kits you LOVE instead of 4-5 you only kinda like.

[@dracosummoner]

Yep, this was why I opted into designing my own Sisters list instead of basing it around the Combat Patrol since I don't see myself heavily relying on Repentias or Penitent Engines (likewise with the Thousand Sons and their Tzaaaaaangors).

[@ravenRedwake]

15:09 while you are at Home Depot or your equivalent, picking up the primer, head over to the tub and tile section and pick up a single piece of ceramic tile, it costs lest that 50 cents. There’s your pallet

[@fjorddkcckkc3783]

I’m interested in seeing how points values will be adjusted for 10th

[@nobelj3137]

i was 57 seconds into the video when i subscribed thats how instant the feeling of honesty hit me im enjoy my time here :D

[@chinaman8888]

ebay has been pretty great for me, but only in the context of buying either very specific individual bits or models that were only sold in one bundle that is now out of print. There are a ton of sellers on that site who exclusively sell all the bits from various kits, which is a god send for kitbashers like me who only want to make just a few highly customized models rather than a whole army's worth (cuz at that point it may be more financially feasible to just buy the full kits themselves and do the mixing/matching).

[@ViolosD2I]

There are also many who just seem to buy combat patrols and such in bulk and then sell the individual spruces at a premium. Or try to borderline scam people with titles like "3x Deffkopta" while actually selling them single, just one of 3 the different models. Personally I found that if you are patient, you usually find a private person selling what you need (and maybe some other stuff you can use) for less.

[@tomtheconqerur]

Hey guys, I may have started this hobby a few years ago and had already build up a decent army but your video helped me out alot with saving money. Vallejo model color black is the only black paint I use that isn't my main primer. I bought that gladiator instead of the impulsor. and I bought a land phobos to use a landraider in my army. One way I managed to save on paints is to use a primer that is simular to the color used as the primary color in your army. I been using a blue primer for my vehicles which saved me alot of time and money painting.

[@obiwandenobi1719]

Instead of a ceramic tile, you can use a wet paper towel in a Tupperware and some wax paper or baking sheet for a cheap wet palette. It’s cheap and makes the paint last longer.

[@AscrodGreytagg]

A few years ago I was at a garage sale down the road from my house at the time, and a guy there was selling like three boxes of the Halo Interactive Strategy Game for maybe $10 for everything. It was this miniatures game meant to tie in around Halo 3 I believe. It came with a bunch of these modular blocks that you build up into crude terrain. It looks cheap visually, but it’s something that can be packed away in very little space, can cover a wide area, and my friends and I were able to basically set up any sort of terrain configuration we wanted two minutes before a game started.

[@DominatorLegend]

There's also an unconventional method for terrain that's not necesarily cheaper, but I know it can massively help some people: LEGO I've used LEGO parts from sets I played with during my childhood and man, it can make legitimately good terrain.

[@CAMSLAYER13]

I make terrain out of junk. Old sprues, cardboard, wooden coffee stirrers, cans, bits of plastic from things etc. Then base with real dirt. All very cheap, even if your terrain turns out kinda shit its better than no terrain and you'll get better.

[@batshit36]

For adeptus mechanicus, you can build an Extra HQ from the combat patrol. You can build up to 3or 4 skitarii Alphas out of the Skitarii squad, if you build one of them with the head with the Roman bridge looking thing, the arc maul and a pistol, you now have a marshal you just need a 40mm base and a tatctical rock. Also for AdMech you are going to have endless hoards of skitarii, save the sprews, there’s tones of fun bits Ann’s extra weapons, infancy it includes a rifle and a carbine with out hands on it with no use as terain set pieces. Good kits for kit bashing with AdMech is the raiders. The cavalry come with lever action rifles, pistols swoards and other weapons held in different ways so your Alpha doesn’t just have to be holding his pistol at shoulders hight aimed at the sky and melee weapon Held aloft. Also in the combat patrol is the dune crawler. Everyone I know builds the dune crawler with the guy sticking out of the gunners hatch, save the extra pistol grips and the pointing arm from the skitarii, you can ad so much expression and variation to various models with gunners hatches or guys holding big guns with just a turned head and one hand off the pistol grip pointing. Getting out of the combat patrol, here’s other bits I’ve saved from AdMech, I’ve only bought HQs and value sets, namely the elimination maniple and the Omnisaiahs talon. While discontinued they are still available at some local game shops, I saved all the holsters and extra arms that come from the serby raiders and iron strider. especially one handed weapons they work great for kit bashing. Or just adding a holster to your alpha to make him look more distinct in the 3 20 man squads of hooded robo monks. I also kept the extra machinegun arms from the katphrons, the barrels make great replacements for when a gun on a bigger model breaks, I also kept the two extra big guns you get from the kastelon robots. I also keep all the more unique heads in this army, like the skitarii heads with the hood pulled down and the extra cybernetica head just to make my squads look a little different. Things I would never buy in AdMech. Skitarii rangers/vanguard. It’s 60 dollars for a box of 10 and they are included in every box set AdMech has I would also never buy kataphrons for the same reason. Tho some sets don’t include them. Things no box set ever includes are things like the electro priests and the archeocopters. One big piece of advice for Any Army is KEEP YOUR EXTRA BITS there are some bits you’ll always have too much of like the generic heads or the generic weapons, but anything else I would keep because if nothing else, they make great little details for basing models, that big crab tank and iron strider and even the dreadnought, any walking vehicle really, has a big space on the base you can make a little scene. My dune crawler has a half burried dead skitarii on it using the pointing arm an extra head and enxtra back pack and one of the rifles with no hands. My iron strider has a base where he’s stepping over a barricade with a carbine and a magazine and a swoard I carved the hand off of on it. If you’re into 3D printing those extra generic bits look Great scattered against any terrain or barricade you might have. Discarded weapons do a great job establishing that the battlefield is a war zone.

[@milliequick1271]

Thanks for posting this. Me and my partner are absolutely hoping to use 10th rd to jump in, so all advice is appreciated. Also I tend to avoid the GW shop when I can because I always feel pressured to buy things by the staff 😅

[@jonathanllewellyn5053]

@Millie Quick I've noticed that GW staff have become a little less "Vulture-like" (though not much, as they will still cut your convo instantly to move on to the next person if you show you aren't cracking under the pressure), but if you have an LGS that sells models and paint etc, you may find that some of the staff that work there also enjoy Warhammer, and they can be less intimidating and pressuring when it comes to purchases, this coming from someone with high social anxiety and experience in both environments. Hope you and your partner take the plunge into the Grimdark and enjoy it 🧡

[@hammdogporkington3058]

17:42 Same with Ironjawz, it's like $12 less to get three Gore-Gruntas than it is to get the Start Collecting box which also has a Warchanter and ten Ardboys

[@FrogEnjoyer17]

As a lover of Tyranids and kitbashing/conversions, I can give the following advice: For anything bigger than a warrior, magnetize everything, you will not regret it. The easiest are Carnifex/Tyrant arms. Exocrine/Haruspex, Tyrannofex and Tervigon are just a few pices apart and the magnetization is very straight foreward. Kitbash your units, making cool custom Tyranids is fun and works well. Check your leftover bits every once in a while and see what you can make. For example, if you’re willing to model the tails with greenstuff, every box of Zoanthropes give you 3 Venomthropes because that is all you’re missing. One box of Zoanthropes and one box of Warriors gives you a Pyrovore/Pyrovore. Let me explain: Cut off the Stranglethorn cannon from the hand and mount it on the huchback of the venomthrope. Place his head so that he is like a turtle in his shell and use however many unused melee weapons of the warriors as arms and legs. For example, 4 scything talons make the spider legs and 2 rending claws make some arms. Smooth out with greenstuff and voila, a free, custom artillery monstie. Leftover Genestealer limbs also work. Also about the Warriors, this is more niche but if you buy a lot of kits or get your hands on someone else’s bits. Every kit has a left over extra upper body and head, that again means, extra 6 Scything talons and some greenstuff tail make a Ravener

[@atomictree5000]

I have been thinking about tyranids for my first army... and with the new ones coming out soon, I don't know what to buy. They look so cool! Anyways, just wondering if you had any new tyranid player specific advice for boxes etc.

[@FrogEnjoyer17]

@@atomictree5000 Sure, generally all value boxes are better than buying individual models. If you have literally nothing I would recommend getting any or all of these. I don’t want to discourage you but chances are you’re not getting that starter box because GW will mess up the orders, didn’t produce enough or scalpers etc. so let’s ignore this for a moment. The combat patrol + boarding patrol boxes are an amazing start. It gives you a Tyrant (probably auto include HQ in most lists), a Broodlord (probably solid melee HQ) a squad of his Genestealers (shock troops melee blenders vs light infantry) a Tyranid Prime (from the Warrior kit, solid HQ, very versatile) and his 5 Warriors (heavy ish all purpose elite infantry) and 36 (old kits) termagants, standard ranged cannon fodder that can hit hard if they keep them similar to what they are now. All of these units fit into a majority of lists, except Broodlord and Genestealers who can be a bit hit or miss depending on the meta. That is 3 HQs (one being a big monster), 36 chaff, 13 middle ish tier infantry. That’s a good start.

[@atomictree5000]

@BasedRoman oh yeah good point about the new Nids. Thanks for the info, I have also been thinking about getting a 3d filament printer for my dnd games, so I think I should be able to grab an stl somewhere? Is it still worth the money to buy the boxes for the genestealers and HQ's or no?

[@FrogEnjoyer17]

Do not buy more stuff until you have this built and painted or you will burn out because you get crushed by your pile of shame. I would recommend starting the termagants because they are easy to paint and to figure out a color scheme. Don’t make it too complicated. Also don’t do all 36 at once or you’ll get bored. Do 10 or until you figured out the scheme or got used to the painting Continue with the Genestealers and the Broodlord so you have a cool HQ to paint. Try some basing with him, there are tutorials on KZbin. The rest of the termagants should be easy now. Don’t waste too much time on them. Maybe just spray them with the skincolor you want, paint the weapon and carapce, maybe some markings. Now you can play a small game with your horde, maybe boarding patrol or just 500p Then when you’re not tired of painting anymore. You can do the rest I recommend magnetizing the arms of the Tyrant and the Warriors/the Prime (trust me) you have fewer guys to paint so put some more work into them, the Warriors, Tyrant and Prime are way more visible in the tabletop so show off your cool scheme. Play a few games, figure out what you like and don’t like and expand where you want to. Explore some other modes like Killteam see what you like

[@atomictree5000]

@BasedRoman Good point. I prolly would burn out on all that grey plastic... the only thing I'm worried about in terms of models is whether the old termagants will look wacky beside the new ones... when I do eventually get them... mby I'm thinking too far into the future but... yk.

[@Nifte2]

A few questions (Preface: I’m in between making a chaos knights or grot army) 1 can I just primer my models? 2 which is more beginner friendly? 3 do I have to buy the Codex or is there a free version? 4 how do y’all transport these things? 5 when making an army is 2000 the max or is there a so give if it’s like 100 points over or under?

[@gregorde]

Regarding primer: just buy an airbrush. If you're going to be in a hobby a while an airbrush is best investment. It's the cost of a combat patrol. Regarding palette, make a wet pallet: get a plastic bin, a sponge, water and parchment paper.

[@Jessie_Helms]

I did buy the GW snips but I also have an Exacto Knife set. The snips get it off the sprue, exacto to clean it up a little. I use a paper plate surrounded by napkins to paint on & wipe off excess paint with a normal cup.

[@WH40ksimplified]

I have assembled an entire black Templars 3000 points army using nail scissors a penknife a nail file and a potato peeler and honestly it works fine. Just goes to show you don’t need the expensive stuff to make it work

[@buuthepowerfull]

So I live in an apartment complex. So it’s hard for me to spray prime minis. So to prime my minis, I just paint them with GW Apothecary Black. It surprised me when I did it this way but it completely covers the the mini with litttle to no convincing and it doesn’t hide any of the details. Then I just slap chop the rest of the way. Quick and easy and they look table ready for a 3rd of the cost of big pallets.

[@fishstrats960]

My single biggest hobby regret is buying way too much GW paint when I started. If I'd done a little bit of research beforehand I could've saved myself a lot of money and ruined paint pots. Pro Acryl is amazing, I'd direct any new hobbyist towards their paint sets in a heartbeat! Base set is ~$100 and you'll basically be set for life.

[@coldgarden_]

I just spent about $160 on citadel paints and I'm just starting. I wanted to have all the paints I would need. I wish I'd saw this video before I did. Probably could have saved some money.

[@brewdogg9347]

15:19 Why not recommend a wet pallet you can make one using a tub you get rice from a takeaway in some kitchen roll to soak the water and baking paper its better than a tile and probably just got it in the house as is

[@vancodling4223]

Got the CSM Renegade Strikeforce in 2009 for $240: . Even with old CSM being obsolete, it was an insane deal for how long those minis have been relevent to my Iron Warriors. Lesson: if the box seems like a good deal, dont hesitate. Also, dont start with Iron Warriors in 5th Edition 😅 (Contents for reference: Land Raider x1, Rhino x2, Vindicator x1, Defiler x1, Terminators x5, CSM x20, + Termie Lord)

[@doobiousd5020]

The GSC combat patrol is like a perpetual motion machine. I see that box chopped and resold on the local second-hand portal so often. Reselling the kits at 30-40% off msrp lets you recoup and leaves you with a free a unit or two every box. Seems like a great option if you have a lot more time than money.

[@ThePlayplay64]

Pill bottles, or getting a small wooden pole at the home depo and cutting it up works well for holding minis. I get super bad pain in my hands if I try to hold it by the base for too long. My main go to is a pill bottle with some rocks in it to add weight.

[@lautarodupuy7559]

Don't buy Rihnos, they are free

[@Ghost77210]

@@rrxyzrr as a new player who has heard this before, I think rhinos where a vehicle that came in lots of combat patrols and other value boxes, to the point people had more rhinos then you could run in any game and people wanted to get rid of them Therefore, you get a extremely cheap to free rhino

[@CAMSLAYER13]

I think the era of cheap rhinos might be about to end. With transports in general being seemingly quite good in tenth people are gonna want to pick a bunch up

[@Itsallover57]

I just got done putting the frame of my predator together, remembered this comment and realized what you meant

[@mariowizard1198]

Or just Proxy a relatively small metal box

[@PackmasterJack]

Most recent primer I bought was the pictured Flat Black from Rustoleum, having previously used other spray paint for priming. Rustoleum is amazing and cheap besides, and gives a very smooth finish.

[@bcw1313]

Rule of cool is king. Buy what you like aesthetically because rules are transient, models are forever.

[@davet.5493]

damn straight

[@afaultytoaster]

8:20 When I first got into the hobby I used snow-themed bases and terrain, I'd take chunks of polystyrene packaging and spray paint it white to use as hills and snow drifts

[@SockimusPrime]

For Sisters players, the Battle Sisters box will give you a wealth of bits and there are some very simple kitbashes you can do to stretch that kit. The sheathed power sword is one of the most useful bits in the whole box. Slap it on someone's hip and now they're a sister superior. That way you can get 2 5-woman battle sister squads, or turn one of those squads into dominions by giving them all meltas/flamers/stormbolters. Slap that sword on someone's hip and put a bolt or plasma pistol in their other hand (also available in the kit), and now you have a Palatine, rather than paying $35 USD for one separate. If you want to give her some extra flair, steal the flaming backpack from a Repential superior and give it to your makeshift character just to make her really stand out. If you build an Immolator or Exorcist, you generally get a few cherubs in the mix. Rather than stick them on tanks as decoration, you can turn them into quick and dirty armorium or incensor cherubs.

[@Bluecho4]

If you need to further differentiate the "regular" Sisters model that got upgraded into a better one, you can always paint them differently. Give them differently colored hair or armor. You can also place them on top of a tactical rock or something. Having spare terrain bits is good for this.

[@project4061]

18:07 I would recommend adding one more note to that, which is to shop around multiple hobby stores. Some are cheaper than others, but others will be more expensive depending on what you're getting.

[@tyvb]

Tip 1: Download the rules for free. Don't give GW money for books, they're outdated quickly and become heavy dust collectors. Tip 2: Just get a tournament legal set of terrain, as your friends and new opponent are just going to expect 6 L-shaped walls on a big circle. It sucks as the game doesn't look like it's in the universe, but it's what the community at LGSs will expect as they'll just want to net-list 95% of the time to practice for local tournaments and you eventually be brow beaten into joining in. Tip 3: Vallejo paint is solid, doesn't dry out in 3 months, and they make a white that doesn't fucking chalk up. Don't give GW money for paint. Additionally you can speak about colors without sounding like a fucking crazy person. e.g. "Yeah, I used Abbadon's Assdust for his boots, and Sloppity Bilepiper's Sloppy Pipe Bile for the skin." Fuck sake. Tip 4: Use a rattle can of Rustoleum White/Black/Grey. Airbrushes aren't the end-all-be-all to painting, brushwork can get you the same effect but needs waaay more time. You're already a couple thousand dollars sunk in for GW's plastic for a single list that will be outdated in 4 months, god help you if you're Australian, so might as well save the cash when you can (or just buy a commissioned army, Mr Bezos). Tip 5: Needle nose clippers, Xacto knife and blades, and superglue. That's all you need. Greenstuff/miliput for gap filling. Size 2 is a good size for a brush, 0 for eyes. Tip 6: You don't save money buying through GW. EVER. Their combined sets are not going to be discounted for buying in bundles, the price of the whole is equal to (sometimes more) than the sum of its parts. The SM vs. Tyranids, SM vs Necron, SM vs. >insert anyone< sets are noticibly monoposed. Buy second hand, it'll take more time to clean and paint but you're not giving your cash to a malicious company that "(. . .) [is not] a game company."* Tip 7: If you get to this section and you realize that GW is a shifty absuive spouse, you'd be sane. Tip 8: Solid tip, buy second hand though. You're helping a person escape while burying yourself without fueling GW's litigation machine. Tip 9: Never net list, or listen to people online about the faction you're dead set on. It turns into an optimization race and will turn you into a ruleset chaser and become WAAC-'friend'. *2014 statement from GamesWorkshop, stating that GamesWorkshop is not a games company. Figure that out.

[@jesusllanas4288]

From lore hammer to poor hammer just learning more about the Warhammer universe and hearing about the orks in the 3 awesome podcast episodes really got me excited to build and ork army and read into them alot more, thanks guys

[@MrShukaku1991]

Podcast #66... I wonder, will #69 be about the sexiest model in each faction?

[@lordcommissarspartan]

I miss the ETB Cadians. Was a great way to fill out numbers in a squad, especially now with the 20 man guardsman squads. ETB Kits are good for what they are, and that's filler units while proper boxes with full custom sprues are, in my mind, for the custom lads. All 10 of the guardsmen in a normal box get special weapons, and the rest of the squad gets filled out by the ETB kits.

[@alexanderandrews6980]

Pegasus is legit, I've bought several boxes each of Thier gothic buildings. Got a Massive Mega Cathedral Board that's 85% Pegasus.

[@corruptcaliburn]

Another one is to have terrain be stuff from around the house it sounds bad but my first game was the Space Marines VS Orks box (I don't remeber the name of it) and me and my dad used my little brother's toys as terrain. It looked silly and the minis looked massivly out of place but I won't ever forget that

[@bigidiotoncampus6306]

Never try to collect armies based on what your friends have or what’s good in tournaments. the thing that is good and winning will not always be good and winning, it’s a live game with balance patches and nerfs. collect the thing that you think is the coolest faction and at some point it will be the dominating force for a season or two

[@connor4911]

Great video. Thank you. I took interest in warhammer about a year ago but was so overwhelmed with lore and i know my creativity is zero. Luckily my local store which i went into was super welcoming and they let you paint one model for free. Not nearly as difficult as i expected. Your advice for buying sets and paints was very helpful. I'm glad I found a hobby thats so different for what i normally do.

[@dittmar104]

I bought 1000 points of tau before arks was announced and I can’t actually play it because I don’t have three of any slots. So I guess don’t do that

[@TheeRedNight]

My group ignores the 3 Compulsory slots for 1k. It's a lot more fun

[@timunderbakke8756]

Good news - that goes away in a month when 10th drops. There are no restrictions anymore beyond limits on spamming

[@dittmar104]

@@timunderbakke8756 yeah I have a reason to paint them now

[@grimshady]

Thank you so much im just getting into warhammer and super hyped but also super overwhelmed. I was gonna just go with citadel paints since theyre like the “name brand” but yall have saved me some money, thanks!!

[@Lancersilva]

Tip #10: get a 3d printer. GW hates it.

[@ballscock9280]

You need a resin printer for good figurines

[@catfishrob1]

I'll never understand why people love sticking it to those who invented something they love. Yep, it's expensive. You could do something else... if it's so important to you to do the thing they invented, maybe they deserve to get paid for it?

[@twurtle12hd39]

@@catfishrob1cause they overcharge the shit out of everything they sell. They’re selling them at hundreds of % markup

[@catfishrob1]

@@twurtle12hd39 then don't play. There are tons of other things you could spend your money on (though most of them are just as expensive). If you insist on continuing to engage in the hobby, you are implicitly admitting that they've invented something you love so much that you don't want to live without it. To me, that sounds like it's worth quite a bit. Also, you can't just go based on the price of making the plastic. There are a ton of other costs that go into their business. Model design, R&D, writing/universe building, artwork, rules balancing, marketing, distribution, brick and mortar stores and employees to staff them, etc.

[@CatroiOz]

​@@catfishrob1oooor, we could just print away. What are you gonna do about it ? Appart from crying for the poor multibillion corpo ?

[@DHYohko]

I started with citadel paint and found that Abaddon black and Corax white behave when you thin them with lamian medium instead o water. Also Vallejo Game Color is their new line and is great. Also, GW models can be painted without priming them. You have to be careful not to handle the fresh paint of it can scrape off but priming is not nesesary.

[@el_super_laser]

buy at the LGS, but don't go buy without knowing what you want and making sure you take a moment to check prices online to make sure you are getting a good deal. ❤

[@MunitionsDudTester]

If your LGS is good people, try to buy from them regardless. I care more about the store still being there in the future than saving 5 doll hairs online.

[@el_super_laser]

@@MunitionsDudTester I was going to go deeper and address that but would be too long. My 2c, is no. Unless you are ok with giving money away or the alternative store is a megacorp… putting others before you is heroic if in dire needs, but not really that cool looking if done on mundane scenarios. I love my LGS, but I am not paying 15% premium for anything unless there is a good reason. No rule is free from exceptions. Game on brother.

[@richardduska1558]

14:33 Cissors work better from my experience since the blades are slimer than the cutter that I would normaly use. If the part is very small or positioned badly that cutter can damage the mold.

[@Tommy9834]

Advice #10 Rhinos are free. Never buy Rhinos.

[@Heavynaut]

I wish I saw this video sooner as I have just gotten into the hobby. I made the mistake of driving up to my local hobby shop and buying a bunch of citadel paints. Not only could I have gotten comparative, cheaper, or better paints elsewhere I also bought a bunch of paints I wouldnt even use for the kit I bought. Too, I missed buying a bunch of paints that I couldve actually used. Tip: Other than buying the Vallejo starter paint kit, try to have a general idea of a colour scheme you want to go with for a kit that so you dont waste money on paints you will never or not be able to use on the models you are trying to paint.

[@potato2741]

DEUS VULT

[@420alphaomega]

Dollar general stores are a fantastic resource for cheap tools/terrain/basing materials/etc def dont sleep on it

[@slackeratlarge575]

Imperium magazine. 8th and 9th edition had a magazine bundle. So will 10 edition. 4 issues a month that on average saves 60-80% off. No choice, it’s preset models but amazing way to get a bunch of models for 1/3 the price

[@Sid91]

new to warhammer. I bought 200 bucks worth of citdadel stuff like primer and paints. I watched your video and I loved every single points. Ya'll got a new sub!

[@astral_ragtime5365]

If you want some BIG cheap terrain, the egg carton-material inserts that come with new tech is relatively easy to get ahold of. Ask any IT department and they'll be more than happy to get rid of it since you aren't supposed to recycle the stuff. (Source: worked in IT and now has an abundance of weird shaped terrain) Other bonus tip is if you're going to paint your terrain DO NOT USE YOUR EXPENSIVE PAINTS ON IT. A dollar store black thinned down will work just as well as your Vallejo and last a LOT longer

[@mattportman3038]

On the subject of primer, if you are in the UK, Halfords grey and white are my go to ones when priming models