These WOODSTOVE MISTAKES Are Costing You Time & Money!

[@theprairiehomestead]

Thanks for watching! Here's the link to the video with more info on our DIY log splitter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGbdipeue9tsn6s

[@mikehagan4320]

Ive had a Blaze King Princess for about 4 years now. My sole source of Heat. I really like the Fan that comes from the factory that attaches on the back. It's very efficient. Its another way to regulate the heat and keeping the stove from over heating when I put in a fresh load of wood. I would like to get one of those heat operated fans like you have. They look very efficient for Circulating heat. I don't like to split my wood as small as you seem to. I like to put as big a round piece of wood as I can. ( about 8 inch max. ) One on the right and one on the left. Then whatever fits in the middle. Then fill in all the gaps with Small or split wood to make a solid block of wood as I can. I find the more solid and large the wood is the longer it Burns. And still gives Me lots of heat. Its been more than 20 below several times this week in Montana. Our Blaze king is serving Us Well! Enjoyed the Video! Best Wishes! M.H.

[@GrowinAlaska]

Wood drys must quicker if it’s split.

[@semperfi-1918]

Older video but good information. Ive decided to finally order my wood burning cook stove for the basement... and yeah not cheap to start... however itll pay off in the end.

[@Mrsmetamorphosis2012]

How much did you pay for all that uncut wood? How long does it last? Is it your only heating fuel?

[@shexdensmore]

Here's a possible wood 🪵 source solution. Plant some Osage orange/ hedge apple and honey locust trees.

[@1979utuber]

My great uncle used to stack wood on top of his stove and he called it cooking the wood for the next day. He was a world war II vet and tough as nails farmer. He lived to 91 and taught me a lot. I miss him

[@charleskelm3703]

I put wood near my stove for the same reason. If I put it on top it will start to smoke, and that’s not good to breathe.

[@1979utuber]

@@charleskelm3703 sure he had a metal rack so it wasn't directly on it. I'm enjoying my new wood stove this year!

[@mgwgeneral6467]

Yup gets the wood good n dry. It’s what we do when you are paying attention to what is going on

[@bobwoods5017]

We do the same, I told my wife she was in charge if the dry kilns. If the stove gets too hot? It will start to burn the wood stacked on top!

[@lar7905]

1979 utuber...good story. Our first house we were told and sold these insulated wall type structures , 4 'x4' to place behind the stove to prevent a fire. 36 years later I set my wood one foot away from the scorching hot stove before they are put in the stove , often sitting ther overnight. I once placed a piece of wood ON the stove just to test it. It left a black mark and I thought "enuf of that"....never been a problem with fire safety.

[@dadandmari-polishandproud771]

We purchased a Canadian buit Haugh stove and it is our primary heat source with a propane fired boiler for the heating season. We live in Michigan on 45 acres of woodland in the Manitee National Forest. In the Spring I fell dead trees or blow downs and cut them into 16 to 18 inch sections, the following Spring I split and stack them in our woodshed so our wood seasons for a year and a half until we burn. Same procedure every year and for 31 years our chimney service guys say ours is the cleanest pipe of all their customers. When its single digit temps it feels great to have our 2400 sq. ft. home at 75+ degrees all day. Great vid and tips. Stay warm and dry.

[@Ursaminor31]

I love seeing community help each other. It is the way forward. Love to you all

[@timkirkpatrick9155]

Creosote and tar gunking stoves and fireplaces are due to improper seasoning of the wood. Cut one year and burn it 2 years later for hard woods, one year for longleaf pines after it is split. The easy way to tell when it is seasoned enough is the bark comes off easily if not by itself. If the wood is not slit wait for the bark to be loose and for the ends to have clear large cracks radiating from the center then split it and let it season as long as possible from then. As far as beetle kill goes the only problem comes from wood recently felled. Dead stading of any kind is still wet. It will season quickly (3-4 months) if cut and split but before seasoning it is the same as dead in ground contact wet. This will make it burn poorly and crud your chimney. The other factor is beetle killed too long standing which punks. It will take very long to dry, never really seasons AND will smoke a lot or burn very fast with little heat output.

[@Resologist]

This may be the way with older woodstoves and fireplaces that did a poor job and produced a lot of smoke. Catalytic and secondary burn woodstoves eliminate that moisture-laden smoke and volatiles (VOCs) that condense and stick onto the chimney. It just needs to be dry!

[@WKR79]

Good video! I also live in Wyoming, was born here in 1960. I was raised by my G-parents. Wood heat is all we had when I was a youngster, and we didn't have a bathroom until I was about 11yo. Outhouse and a bed pot near each bed that was simply covered with a newspaper, for night time use, and they were emptied in the outhouse as needed. Cast iron tub that was filled with a garden hose from the water heater, and drain went through the wall and drained on the ground outside. Grew up with 5 adopted Indian children. I was 8 when G-pa passed away, so I and two of my Indian "brothers" supplied the wood to heat the house. We were on the river bottom so cottonwood was right out the back door. The last of my "brothers" left for college when I was 13. From then until I graduated from HS, I cut the firewood for my G-ma and I, with my G-pa's old heavy Homelite saw. Never had an accident but came close to it many times. I find it a coincidence that I also have a Blaze King Princess I bought about 15 years ago. Hands down the best stove I have ever been around. Another advantage to a catalyst stove is that the chimney does not soot as quickly. I can go longer between cleanings. I find that over time, powdery ash gets deposited behind the catalyst, but I just put a vacuum to the front of it and suck it back out. Thanks for the video!

[@devapremachodron4851]

Wow, thanks for sharing your story, and for helping take care of your Grandmother. 😊🙏🌳

[@WildberryAB]

❤

[@mylightofhope]

Can you cook on yours too? I don't have this brand but I do have a catalytic converter on mine and I never have been able to get it hot enough to cook on, like one without it. I'm considering a new stove and deciding between a wood cookstove or traditional style. Also, my stove won't last through the night without having to add more wood, so that's another big key feature in looking for.

[@WKR79]

@@mylightofhope I have never tried to cook on it but I don't think it would work very well. By the time the top got hot enough I would be roasting inside the house! If I was going to do allot of cooking, I think I would want two stoves, one for heating and one for cooking. My BK Princess has a deep firebox thus holding a good amount of ash which is helpful for holding a fire/hot coals overnight, which it does very well. It is airtight allowing precise control of the incoming air. Having the mechanical bi-metal coil type thermostatic spring built in to the damper control is a feature that also helps for overnight burns.

[@brucebannerman6848]

Maybe I misunderstood,but I always cut and split firewood as soon as possible,split wood dries far faster than full length logs.

[@larryroyovitz7829]

I think the point was instead of getting cut and already split wood, they are saving money by getting logs, that they then cut and split themselves. That would be not much different from harvesting your own trees from your own land. You still gotta cut and split that up, no one's doing it for you.

[@hunterman600cc]

If you've got enough, and don't need it super quick... In my experience it's easier to split dry than green.

[@granch4211]

Oh i suppose your right on that i cut mine a year ahead and i split it right before it come in the house to the wood box do you have a splitter or maul i have both thanks for the tip lifes good

[@Theggman83]

I usually buck my logs ASAP, in the fall time and then leave the rounds through winter . Drier wood is definitely easier to split, and I still manage to get the wood under 20% through the following summer.

[@joshuataylor9791]

Your right you can half your seasoning time by splitting straight away

[@aerocap]

The best way to keep heat is definitely to first set an AIR INTAKE PIPE from outside of the house to the inside of the stove. The stove not only pulls its fire-draw sucking the hotest air around itself (the one it just went to heat) but also all the air refill comes from outside.. the cold one 🧐 Sorry for my poor English, greetings from Switzerland 🙂

[@donhaywood6542]

Fresh air to the firebox is mandatory in frozen climates. All the air/smoke going up the chimney has to enter the house somewhere. It's simple, as much air that you are pushing outside through the chimney, is coming into the living quarters and chilling down the living space somewhere. Go up to the chimney and put your hand over the pipe....you'll see what I mean.

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

The air will actually come in from the chimney on a proper efficient burning closed system.

[@Woodyperckerhead-ni3ti]

I’m not a critic after my other brother n sisters being a teacher I’m just the black sheep coal stoves growing up n wood burning house is over 100 old no insulation but plenty of fresh air lol

[@egosatwork3255]

Agreed 👍, here in the UK 🇬🇧, we chop, split, stack, for 2years before using,, moisture levels below 20%, than it's good to go, 🔥 🔥 🔥 🔥, thank you ☺

[@mickleblade]

I'm in rural France so our house is built off stone. It's made a huge difference getting the external walls really well insulated, the floor and roof too. But the stone fireplace surround is fabulous as it gives a thermal mass, this gives off heat for 12hrs after a fire has gone out. We burn oak and chestnut.

[@CobyRupert]

Yes but…. thermal mass is a two way street. It takes just as much “extra” heat to get the stones up to temperature as you get out of them once the fire goes out. It definitely “smoothes the curve”.

[@truenorthtarot]

Same here, we are in the centre of France and even though we live in the centre of a small village we still prefer to heat with wood.

[@angrydragonslayer]

My dad now lives in a house with ~R250 insulation everywhere but the windows If the AC is off, you will feel the heat from a single candle in there

[@christianwithers7335]

You miss the point, infrared will heat the masonry and store the heat, so a huge inglenook is in your favour, heat emitted by convection goes very quickly to your ceiling and is lost. Science

[@TK-zc5wu]

If u don't let the stones breathe you May get a damp problem

[@jonfisher9214]

I'm mostly dependent on local forestry work for my wood supply. I take whatever is being cleared (at zero cost). I currently have Oak, Silver Birch, Hazel, Pine, and Black Birch. The Black Birch is a lovely wood to burn and my current favourite. It was good to see everyone come together to help your friend who needed help.

[@winterfar2814]

Black Birch is the one that smells like wintergreen right?

[@stanwooddave9758]

The best was the official wood inspector, doing his job, guarding the wood in the trailer from any local cats. LOL

[@jonjones2013]

Congrats

[@Tengooda]

Another tip I would make: get a stove with a hotplate on the top so you can cook/heat a kettle. The gentle heat from a stove that is ticking over is great for slow cooking of soups and stews and keeping a kettle warm, and the stronger heat when the stove is burning hotter can be used to directly bake potatoes - cover the potato with an old cake tin or similar and you'll never eat a better baked potato - or heat a wok for stir fries, for example.

[@hosephine1]

My blaze king has a flat top. It perks my coffee pot, my tea kettle and soup too. No hot plate rings.

[@dalepotter6918]

I've cooked steaks on my wood stove . Takes forever, but the best steak I've ever had.

[@IbadassI]

I don't even own a wood stove but I still watched this. Intriguing.

[@backtothelandliving]

There is nothing like the cozy feeling of a warm wood stove on a cold winter day. I can't wait to install our wood stove in our cabin! Thanks for the tips!

[@theprairiehomestead]

It's the best! Especially in a cabin. :)

[@jaquigreenlees]

@@theprairiehomestead For looks, burning wood is the best, for heat, coal is. Not charcoal actual coal mined from the ground. We used to use a fresh air fireplace insert and burn coal to heat a 2 story 5 bedroom house. It was in the basement so we just had to leave the 2 doors at the bottom of the stairs open to heat the house. Had to have a good bit of heat in the fireplace before adding the coal but it didn't take much coal to have the house toasty warm. Now, the local regs only allow gas. no wood no coal.

[@bruceforster3709]

@@jaquigreenlees So, go ahead and USE the coal; But don't tell the NAZI regulators you are doing it! SCREW THEM!

[@baileygrace9823]

As a chimney sweep please season your wood at least six months before you burn it will create less creasote and heat your home better

[@richardprice5978]

dry real charcoal works right? and maybe burns cleaner in a open harth fire box ?

[@doriannewton8440]

Unless you're here in the UK and it takes years!

[@dj_efk]

@@doriannewton8440 Not true! Cut it / split it / stack it correctly and in the right location outside and softwood will season in 6 (warmer) months, hardwood in under two years.

[@jaysee2213]

@@dj_efk I buy mine in march/ April, start burning in October/November, it's all good

[@jamclibusmar]

How often does a person need to clean their chimney?

[@jeffsmith2070]

I have heated with wood most of my life although I did burn coal for a few years until the rising cost of coal made it not such a good deal. I use a Blaze King also and agree that they are great stoves. I got a great deal on mine used because the previous owner said it did not create enough heat. I believe their problem was not having seasoned firewood because it heats my home perfectly. I have never had any serious problems with my catalytic converter except when it gets plugged with fly ash which is easily corrected by blowing the converter out with canned air about once a year. It is important to never burn anything in the stove but wood, no trash or debris! Another thing with catalytic converters is the wood must be seasoned and dry. Wood that is wet from rain or covered in snow will kill the reaction of the converter until all the moisture is gone, delaying the heat from the stove. I use rubber roofing, cut into strips, to keep my wood dry. In moderate temps, 20-50 degrees I get 12 hour burns but in colder weather I get around an 8 hour burn to keep it toasty warm in my home. Another extremely important factor with a BlazeKing stove is making certain the door seal is sealing properly. This is easily tested by closing the door on a dollar bill and tugging on the bill in several places around the door. If the seal is working properly the bill will not slide out. The Blaze King does have a door adjustment at the door latch for easy tightening of the door seal. I just replaced my door seal this year and the replacement is straight forward and simple, just make certain you purchase the correct diameter sealing rope and use plenty of adhesive. Another important factor of Blaze King stoves is having the correct chimney configuration. When I first got my stove I tried to attach it to the masonry chimney I used with my coal stove and it did not work well. After reconfiguring the chimney to Blaze Kings specifications it has worked perfectly ever since. I don’t understand all the science behind it but it’s apparent Blaze King did their homework on chimneys!

[@alansach8437]

Agree with Jeff 100%, except the "dollar bill" test! Use a plain piece of paper torn about the size of a dollar bill. I tore a dollar in half once doing this test! LOL!

[@NorthFork]

Blaze King are great stoves! 99% of people who don't think their stove is throwing out good heat are using unseasoned firewood. People think their wood is dry but there is a lot of moisture in unseasoned wood. I think the wood moisture at 12% is suppose to be ideal.

[@orlandomorgado5]

I’m having 14-16 h burning times with Sirocco 30 Blaze King with unseasoned pine when it’s around -10. When it drops to -20-30 I’ll get around 10h. The moisture content is around 20% so I have to clean the combustor every second week using the vacuum cleaner with brush attached, carefully, it takes 20 seconds and it’s done. Great stove I wouldn’t change to any other model

[@jasonscott4525]

When I first saw you loading all of that wood into the stove, my eyes bulged out because I’ve never heard of those types of stoves. I’ve only ever seen the more wood you add the hotter it gets based on the damper. I like the idea of that stove, minimal “baby sitting”. I’m going to look into it. Good video, Thanks for sharing!

[@nickguthrie9309]

If your house is long-ish rather than boxy, put a big fan at the distant end of the house so as to push that cold air to the stove. Also get the use of a moisture meter to test your wood by splitting a few pieces to expose inside surfaces. Less than 20% moisture is good. Too much moisture % wastes energy and puts creosote in your chimney

[@jasonbrown7258]

What I found is lots of fire brick in the stove. I took the one inch thick brick out and installed 3 inch thick brick with a higher heat rating. And ran it all the way to the top of the stove rather than just one layer on the bottom. This traps much more heat in the fire chamber giving a hotter and more complete burn and when the fire goes down the heat output doesn't fluctuate as much. Also I ran the air intake from the outside. By drawing cold outside air this creates a greater pressure difference which creates a much better draft and your not pulling the warm air from the house in the stove. After I did this I basically burn whatever I find on the forest floor. If it's wet nasty or green I'll just mix it in with dry. With my 900sq foot home I only use 10-12 pickup loads here in Michigan.

[@bt9124]

I open a window to draw cold air in. It lights miles better.

[@trevorstolz8580]

I have a Blaze King Princess also. I also grew up in British Colombia where there is always lots of firewood available. A few tricks: 1) If you have wood that is not quite seasoned enough, keep a few days supply in the house (basement?) all the time. Air is dryer in winter and if you have a rack that you can put near the wood stove but far enough away that it isn't a fire hazard outside of the wood stove, it will dry quite nicely. 2) The catalyst has a warranty of seven years. I think it's worth replacing it after seven years. 3) I work for a lumber company in Canada. There is always "reject lumber" and logs that are too short to use. They put it in a huge pile. Due to environmental concerns, it is illegal for the company to burn it in the old bumble bee burners. Employees are allowed to take it for "firewood", i.e. you aren't supposed to be using damaged lumber for anything other than firewood. The logs are logs but the damaged lumber is kiln dried! Find a friend who works for a lumber company .... As an aside, with Covid 1984, I just don't trust the government anymore. I think NOT having a woodstove and depending only on gas or some other form of supplied heating is simply foolish. You might only need it once in your life, but it's there if you do. I live in rural Alberta now and once the power was out for 12 hours because the line broke somewhere. They were flying a helicopter around for hours before they found it and repaired it. That time, fortunately, it was summer but the power has been out in winter for shorter periods. The furnace won't run without electricity, even if it is a gas furnace.

[@evegreenification]

Covid 1984-totally agree, I love your humor

[@hpjtv]

I’m in BC. Main source of heat is a wood stove. I have a gas fireplace as backup. It doesn’t require house electricity to run. The igniter and pilot run on 4 AA batteries. Before I got that model, I had one that was manual start. We’ve had some big storms and the longest I’ve been without power is 7 days. Glad to have these alternative sources of heating.

[@Gunit0121]

Thank you, great video. Wyoming...former city slicker from Denver now living in the middle of farm land in Iowa. Once you do Wood stoves...never go back. High tomorrow is going be -3..but you know story. Thank you, stay safe and warm

[@mikeu5380]

Hi from northern, rural, snowy Japan. Agree with each of your points. Glad to hear you 'talk up' the catalytic converter. We have one on our DutchWest, and agree with you regarding efficiency. We are careful about NOT burning pine, and have not had to swap out the cat. since we installed the stove 7 years ago. "Breakdown" and detailed cleaning of the stove is done bi-annually... And she hums well all through winter! Thanks! (By the way, watch that elbow... Carrying logs that way for several years, and during the winter, day-in and day-out, has cost me major tendonitis pain, for which I've been undergoing therapy for 6 months. Best to carry fewer logs, and alternate arms and muscles, as well as doing stretching before and after... ; )

[@johngulbunny8652]

The secret to firewood is having a pretty daughter.i learned this when she HAD to help me do hay,put her on the wagon,wasnt 20 minutes and young men where in a competition to impress her same goes for firewood.pretty girls have a way of attracting strong young men willing to work hard

[@MJorgy5]

It's all fun and games until she marries off.

[@paullangford8179]

@@MJorgy5 Grandchildren are a parent's suitable revenge on their children.

[@carleynorthcoast1915]

same goes for car repairs, competition is the key though

[@mikehagan4320]

Hey I have a pretty Daughter too. I should try that.

[@apegues]

I Love it, Chumming for Sharks with your Daughter... Put her in some Daisy Dukes and a tied off button up shirt, Dukes of Hazzard style. Those who work the hardest get a piece of pie 🥧

[@JD-bp6pi]

As an Northeastern "Hardwood snob" I was schooled to only burn hardwoods. However the real answer is only burn very dry wood. The creosote comes from the moisture in the wood combining with the smoke and gumming up your stove. I now burn pine, but its been down and drying for three years in most cases. I do however burn a higher percentage of oak.

[@omaha42000]

Hardwood is nice, but in some areas pine is all that is available.

[@andersandersen232]

Drying is key. 👍

[@NorthFork]

Agreed dry is the best no matter the species! We dont have hardwood out west so its not an option or thats all i would burn, I really like my douglas fir, cedar, larch and aspen though. Occasionally will through some pine in for the crackle. Also another overlooked species for westerners is willow, it burns super hot but is more difficult to split and needs to be seasoned for at least 2 years IMO

[@ozyrob1]

You are 100% correct. Dry firewood will not produce tar or creosote. The only difference between wood is ash build up and heat output per kilogram burnt. Any dry firewood is good fuel, just some is better than others.

[@robertrogish1038]

As a kid in Western PA, we had unlimited supplies of Red & While Oak and Cherry with a smattering of others. I had a Baker Woodstove with 4 ceramic pipes that ran though the firebox, a 2 speed motor was attached to the intake and it would blow super heated air out - awesome stove. Love the life you're living.

[@stephenandrews2762]

As a qualified solid fuel heating engineer, best to split your wood ASAP. Ideal moisture content 17% or less, if burning just wood always leave a Ash bed in the wood burner. Light as you would any fire, gas torch is cheating. One match, newspaper ,kindling small logs to start, leave a finger width gap on the door for 5 minutes then close and control with the secondary control or as per manufacturers instructions 😀

[@delmarcrihfield8958]

Telling someone to leave the door a finger width open for 5 minutes is a good way to have them burn their house down. I learned the hard way. If you forget to shut the door you're in trouble. But I do agree with the way you start your fire. He who uses his propane bottle has more money than me lol but they definitely have it going on and I enjoyed their video

[@Zukuri620]

Unless you're one of the big 4 engineering disciplines, or one of the few minor disciplines, don't call yourself an engineer. It's a slap in the face to those of us who are real engineers.

[@Nala15-Artist]

@@Zukuri620 No true Scotsman and Gatekeeping in one comment, this is a rare one.

[@mwnciboo]

@@delmarcrihfield8958 Not at all, the one finger allows for good air flow, as the flu is exhausting...1 finger means crank the door slightly.

[@CobyRupert]

@@Zukuri620 In many states the law is : “Unless you’re licensed, don’t call yourself an engineer…”

[@philalfred8307]

We are using the same kind of beatle killed wood with a catalytic converter here in southwest Wyoming. We are toasty warm all the time! NEVER a problem with our CAT-CON! We love your videos! We use our wood splitting as our exercise routine. I can see that we might change that up in coming years... We are both 61. It's good to get the blood flowing...and we do it together! ❤❤❤

[@SaneAsylum]

Do you have the pleasure we have of beetles hatching from your indoor wood stash and filling your window sills? On the plus side we have loads of Flickers and other Wood peckers to go with all the beetles in our trees!

[@rogerknight2267]

Just purchased a Buck Stove Model 81 today after much research. I had never heard of the catalytic converter option until I got into the middle of my research. I opted not to go with one since my heater is going to serve as my distance second source of heat. If I was looking for a primary source heavy use heater, I would probably go with a converter model. Thanks for the video!! Lots of excellent tips for a first timer like me.

[@frenchfryfarmer436]

Get a flue brush and necessary length of rods for your chimney height ...AND use it as necessary. If your running a cat stove it will be infrequently...once every few years if your flue stays hot (less build up). If your at ALL unknowledgeable about flue/chimneys get an experienced person to insure it's double layer and is serviceable for wood burner use. Many older homes have a single layer of bricks, which are extremely dangerous....must have a second (not cracked) clay liner. You can also slip a stainless flue liner pipe down the old chimney to fix this. Our flexible stainless liner pipe cost as much as our top shelf stove 24 years ago .... floor demo unit Vermont Castings "cat" defiant ..$1700...liner $1700. We heat our home most years exclusively with it. ...2-3 cords of hardwoods from our farm.

[@YSLRD]

Must- well, should. My 90 yr old, exclusiveky wood heated house had a brick only chimney that lasted for 87 yrs. It did finally crack.

[@brianruff1133]

Yes, the old Fisher stove, made in Oregon! Still a popular stove here in OR, but mainly in the shop. Jotul in the house, Fisher in the shop is my formula for 😊. Such a good feeling looking at your woodpile and knowing that you have two years worth of "free heat". Take care!

[@gerryroush8391]

Love the mama bear😊

[@xxrice]

Have you tried the top down method of burning? With larger splits and a top down fire, your burn time increases a lot.

[@JosephTMeiroseIV]

FYI a Blaze King Princess ceramic catalyst cost about 300 bucks here in Fairbanks Alaska. I can't imagine it being twice as much in the L48. Usually it's the other way around.

[@pinkysregenerativevarietyf9345]

I love that you're using beetle kill. I am a Colorado native, and I know the wonderful impact you're choosing to make by helping to clear out that beetle kill. Also, thank you for the catalytic converter bit, I'd never heard of that! I grew up with wood heat, but that's a new concept to me.

[@NormieNeko]

I'm from Colorado, but I don't understand. I know that my husband used beetle kill on the interior walls of my MIL's cabin in Cuchara. It's beautiful.

[@jimt6151]

Thanks for the video! Beginning my stove shopping process. Just bought your book, so I'm glad to find your youtube channel. I grew up with an open fireplace and 50s/60s-era cast iron wood stove. I'm a big believer in ceiling fans for heating/cooling distribution. We run ours all the time on low, summer and winter in an older mobile home (epic inefficiency), with propane and electric heating/cooling, yet have the lowest bills of anyone we know. Air movement, by some means, is definitely worth the effort. I'm really impressed with the heat-driven fans like yours!

[@devlinjunker81]

Wow! Crazy! Your husband was one of my teachers at LCCC back in 2010 and 2011. Cool to stumble across your video here. We also have a blaze king (larger model) and it works pretty darn good. I think most people ruin their catalytic converter by not realizing that it has to get hot enough before you close the bypass. Anyway tell Christian I said hello.

[@cjamesfox]

You could tell he's a teacher by the way he explained the converter :)

[@richardhawkins2248]

I grew up in Colorado. Before my father passed away, he switched to wood heat and realized why we love it. We moved south for the Shuttle program and onto five acres. It provides all the wood we need and then some. Love it.

[@oneupmanship]

I usually only have to relight my stove a few times a winter. How you light it is up to you, whatever works. Here in S.W. Ontario my woodlot provides me with ash, maple. cherry, beech and hickory. But it irks me if I'm bucking up a log that looks like it could be sawn into boards. Lifes hard desicions. Nice video!

[@davegarber7964]

“....a few times a winter.” .....and you clean out the ashes when the box is nearly full, or what?

[@nunyabitnezz2709]

Kudos to folks willing to live in a climate like that!

[@fourdogstoveco]

Been heating with a Blaze King King model in MN now for over 20 years. One of the best investment I ever made. Twice the heat half the wood.

[@alansach8437]

Me too!! Would recommend Blazeking to anyone who wants serious heat without having to burn down the forest. Mine often goes from late Oct. to early April, pretty much nonstop, on about three cords of pine.

[@nicholem4831]

8:24 PNW native and current resident (SW WA) currently trying to help my parents figure out how to cost effectively heat both their home and detached garage/shop via wood stove. Single biggest issue outside of obtaining uncut log rounds is finding an appropriate place to store them in order to season the wood since it’s just so darn WET here! It blows my mind to see your firewood with snow on it…but it’s dry lol. As I’m sure you know, we don’t have dry snow here 😆

[@WhatDadIsUpTo]

I made my own wood stove of welded steel. Cost me about $25, probably super inefficient, but I love how it looks with the 3-ft by 18" door flung open and I built in a gravity heat exchanger, so I don't need a fan (it thermosiphons room air). It heats my 1,200 sq ft house on 3, split 8" logs a day. I burn seasoned (2 year) oak exclusively.

[@cyanidechrist]

$25? No way.

[@WhatDadIsUpTo]

@@cyanidechrist Way

[@greenmarine5]

When I was 14, we helped our neighbors and they helped us, no matter the need, if either of us was capable we helped. 38 years later, I love watching videos like this when people are still helping people and in return helping them back. Awesome video thank you for sharing with us!!!!!!!!! You help me I'll help you

[@ninalee8625]

I live in the Pacific NW where there's no shortage of firewood and I've had to heat a home strictly by the woodstove. I am always looking to get more out my fuel as well as polluting less.

[@joedonnelly9487]

You did a great job explaining all the things that matter. I'm a new wood stove user...we by grace have all hardwoods...lots of oak wilt and gypsy moths are killing the hardwood forests in mid northern Michigan... So, we have new die-off and standing burnable. I do have a moisture meter to avoid the green unseasoned wood until ready. You and your family are doing the best things and with friends to help!

[@simp2662]

A business tip: start selling basic multipurpose stoves and instructions to Texans.

[@catdaddy3728]

We live east coast of PA. Residential, but have had a woodstove in the basement for over 20 years. Lotta work but I love everything about it. Ours in a non cat model, BUT willing to bet every bit as efficient as a cat style. It is a high efficiency stove with the air tubes in the top of firebox for the secondary burn. Never smokes except for a little in the initial start up fire, after a bed if coals is in the bottom, never smokes. Medium sized stove, it is a Quadra Fire step top model, was made by Aladdin, but I think they sold the brand... still have QuadraFires being made but now they have the automatic air controls... Ours is the manual air... It is a welded steel plate style that is air tight, meaning if I cut the air controls off, the fire goes out. You do have to maintain door gaskets to keep the stove air tight. Best type of heat in the world, in my opinion... well mine and all our cats who pile up all around the stove all day and night, haha! If you are thinking of going woodstove, you have to know this. If you are going to buy your firewood you will probably stop using your stove in the middle of the heat season. Buying your wood for 24/7 use will be expensive. Our medium size stove GOBBLES HUGE AMOUNTS OF SEASONED HARDWOOD!! That is the other part, we burn 24/7 from Oct to May... I have never paid for wood... with money, sweat and blood? Oh yea!! We get our wood from a tree service outfit, we have to cut split and haul it. We have 4 Husqvarna pro saws, a commercial grade splitter, all the log tools necessary to move big stuff, so it is a ton of work, BUT, I enjoy it. Just know what is involved before jumping in. I would not change a thing, I love our woodstove, plus we use a lot of wood in outside firepit and while RV camping.

[@markhenderson6198]

My parents got me a chainsaw for Christmas when I was 15. When my older brother left for the Navy the firewood responsibility fell on me to keep our house warm.

[@jackiebrown129]

Cry baby

[@thethiefonthecross9092]

@@jackiebrown129 don't be jealous because you got a Barbie at 15 LOL

[@JH-jd8ip]

Ok, point?

[@thethiefonthecross9092]

@@JH-jd8ip I'm going to get a log splitter in a few days it will be my first yeah it's going to be epic LOL

[@HigherEducationAwakening]

😂

[@Jackstraw911]

Don’t list to the haters! It seems like you are doing everything fairly well. If your catalytic converter is staying clean and your chimney doesn’t get creosote you’re fine. I’m in the northeast and we must dry our wood for at least a year and 3 is optimal so we aren’t used to cutting and burning right away. Your wood looks dry enough. There’s nothing better than wood heat, it heats our house perfectly and is completely silent. God bless you.

[@1MSally1965]

We have that fan and we LOVE it. It starts running at 80 degrees. We also have a corner doorway fan to bring the air into the back of the house.

[@kellyburke5636]

What kind of fan is it? We have a woodstove but I'm hesitant to buy a fan without knowing anything about them.

[@davidpetersen1]

Just retired and moved back to my small home town in northern New Brunswick (Canada) from the highly populated southern Ontario. Fewer amenities and health care is a challenge but urban living is a young persons game and kills the soul over time...imo. Lovin' your woodpile.🤣🤣

[@lindamoses3697]

We had a woodstove in Idaho. We learned to only split logs to start the fire and the use unsplit logs for a long lasting fire. We had a fire in the morning, late afternoon, and night. It took 8 cords of wood per winter. It was in the basement, with vents coming up through the living room above it. We also used one box fan to push the warm air up the stairs. We had an insulated fruit room far from it on two outside walls that stayed cook. This was years ago. It heated the entire home.

[@ateleskier7066]

Glad you said that. We burn about the same amount although, being this is Scotland and not the US where all your houses are like mansions, we are undoubtedly less efficient.

[@rebeccaanne3083]

I am curious that you use 8 cords. I live in Canada, we use 3 cords a year to heat our 1800 sqft home.

[@ateleskier7066]

@@rebeccaanne3083 I'm guessing your home is well insulated, draught-free and with efficient stove(s). In our case we're dealing with 60cm (2') thick walls that someone cut holes in to 'let the air in'. So when it's -12C it's a losing battle. If you have any secrets, please share!

[@rebeccaanne3083]

@@ateleskier7066 oh that makes a lot of sense! We also keep our house on the cooler side (60-65deg F) and wear layers in doors. Yes our stove is efficient and our home is very well insulated, and we circulate the air. It also helps that our home is sheltered built into the hillside with south facing windows. We are able to do a lot of passive heating and cooling in the summer.

[@techguy9023]

My brothers house had a small concrete block box built around the stove in the basement. He put ductwork to the bedroom and living room and used a fan as well. The box had a metal top that the ducts connected to. Worked fairly well.

[@mikeoxlong8272]

I've learned that if you live in a small town you can have a "wood splitting party". You can get about 10 cord cut, split, and stacked in a day for the cost of a keg of cheap domestic beer.

[@CobyRupert]

Good video. IMHO, wood dries many times faster AFTER it’s split and doesn’t really dry well un-split. You can see this on small unsplit rounds that spit sap in the firebox as compared to bigger split pieces. The catalytic converter probably helps with reducing creosote buildup as it burns those gases instead of them cooling and collecting in the exhaust pathway. A good hot fire also burns creosote off, or dries it and it flakes off, but burning it off can be dangerous if too much has built up as creosote burns very hot and having a hot fire in the chimney is unwanted. For me, I do hot fires often, and also let my split wood dry for over a year before burning.

[@roseymalino9855]

She's using dead trees, so quite well dried. An alternative some people use, is to 'ring' a tree, and again, let it season in place in advance of felling and splitting.

[@Hearthman1159]

There is a 30% federal tax credit on qualifying stoves up to $2K. Any wood or pellet stove with a Higher Heating Value of 75% or higher qualifies. Most require a cat to get that high. Actually, the smoke is burned 3x- main chamber, upper secondary combustion chamber then the cat. Clean the cat annually when sweeping or as needed. I use a rubber bulb syringe like those used on babies. Don't wash them or blast w/ compressed air. Get the equipment and sweep annuallly or more often as needed. Get a thermometer and learn where to place it and how to keep your stack temps up to minimize creosote formation. You need a second special thermometer to tell when the cat 'lit off''. Install per mfr. paying close attention to clearances to combustibles. Use UL listed insulated class A chimney and double walled connector inside aka "stovepipe". Get a moisture meter. Split your wood and test the heart wood. Min. 20% moisture content corrected for temperature. Woodstoves heat primarily by radiant heat, which is why fans are not usually needed. The best firewood requirements are : 20% mc and free. Can't burn pine was based upon moisture content of sap. Remove the water and you have sugar. Cellulose is just a complex carbohydrate. Softwoods burn faster so you blow through your woodpile faster. Secret: most woodstoves are designed and built in north country where they use softwoods. They test with softwoods first then use hardwoods for quality controls. The UL 1482 test is with softwood cribs. Good video. I recommend cutting your wood to length then seasoning. Wood dries lengthwise despite splitting so the shorter the faster it seasons. Check out NFPA 211 here for free to read about installing and inspecting woodstoves and fireplaces: www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/all-codes-and-standards/list-of-codes-and-standards/detail?code=211 Thx Jill!

[@donsundberg5730]

You might get by with leaving your wood in log lengths in WY with pine, but in the midwest, I can take fallen logs that have been sitting long enough to have no sapwood left (years) and still want to have them season after cutting and splitting for 4-5 mos prior to burning in my catalytic stove. Walnut, red elm and white oaks are the ones you can find in this state. All my wood short of standing dead elms is split and seasoned for at least 2 years prior to burning. I have to clean the catalyst much less and replace it less often if I can keep it fed with dry wood. Now I have a friend with a Quadrafire and he doesn't have the issues I do but his is non-catalytic.

[@dcranch4820]

Live in Wisconsin. We live in a log home. Have a gas furnace we use for back up only. Built the home back in 1998 and bought a Soap Stone wood stove. We heated our entire home with this stove for many years. Has a nice viewing window to watch the fire. This stove heats well till it gets around -10. So we bought a outdoor wood boiler. I fill it once a day in zero or above weather. Below zero i fill it twice. Also it depends in the size of the blocks. I rarley split the wood for the boiler unless its so big i cant load them in the boiler. I burn red oak, white ,oak, elm, birch, poplar, walnut, box elder, cherry and hacklberry. In the boiler i like a mix of some green and some dry wood for best burn times. I try to only use dead or damaged trees from my farm. For my soap stone stove i only burn dry seasoned wood. I also use 2 Stirling engine fan on top of my soap stone stove to circulate the warm air. Nothing like a wood heat!!!

[@billbrooks7911]

Awesome. I have found the two biggest thanks are using seasoned wood as opposed to dry wood which is a big difference and the converter that is allSo based on the rocket stove concept is the difference between enjoying your woodstove or struggling with it. great post

[@mikeholton9876]

well done and informative video. and dont beat yourself up on the beetle kill wood, its actually better to burn that and with it the potential for spread of the beetles than to harvest living trees and have to wait for a year or more for them to season properly for use in a reburn stove (either a cat or non cat stove) as for cats (Catalytic Combustors) the biggest danger to them is moisture, especially loading wet wood (even if its snow covered rather than just unseasoned) into a hot stove the water flashes to steam and causes what known as "thermal shock" (like melting the frost off your windshield with hot water, though not quite as dramatic) this can delaminate the cat's coating or actually cause microfracturing which will severely reduce the lifespan of a ceramic cat. NIce stove also, im a big fan of the BK line. really great job on the video folks! MIke Holton Senior Technician England's Stove Works inc.

[@beabriana]

So helpful! I've never had a wood stove before, but am planning to upgrade my smoky, inefficient fireplace with a wood stove insert. So, this advice is timely and appreciated!

[@frenchfryfarmer436]

Keep in mind that "inserts" require power to move air. Best to put a free standing wood stove and put a 1/8" sheet of steel over the opening and cut a hole thru it.

[@BrockOBauma]

@@frenchfryfarmer436 inserts don't "require power" but most heat better with it.

[@florentinalily]

Just came across your channel. I grew up with fires and was really happy to see a sensible vlog with really good advice. Thankyou. I wish we could get your stove here in France! (Europe)

[@oldpete3153]

I've had a Blaze King for 16 yrs...burnt nothing but fir as well as some pine...never replaced a thing in it...just sweep the chimney and stove once a year. This stove runs basically 5 months each winter with maybe one shutdown to clean the ashes out that's it...its the King model...👍

[@sissymurphy9620]

I live in VA and have tons of trees problem is some of them are pine ,thing is yours is older and blaze king has changed many things on their wood stoves . They still sell the princess but it is way different than yours . Now they have the air baffles on the top and also like you say catyltic converters , they have to be cleaned carefully or replaced . Here we get mostly white and red oak , There are pines but most won't use it except in outside wood stoves . My house is 2440 sq. ft but 2x6 stud walls with attic and basement insulation and that paid off when I had my modular house built back in 2004 . problem is here for some stupid reason we don't have wood stove stores we have only hardware stores that sell regular stoves and with no one working no products to buy . Delivery is crazy with a tractor trailer truck and my over 300 ft long up the hill drive way and we are seniors so makes it even harder . I love your real life info on your success with your stove

[@marlonvite4152]

I am an "efficient combustion" researcher for a proyect for the rest of my life .... I saw a video of an old time Russian earth stove with a pre combustion, very informative .... on another video I saw a long slightly horizontal mix earth/metal stove where they didn't have to chop wood at all and the long wood trunks were fed uncut with highly conbustion efficiency because of the pre burner where the secondary burner acted as a Catalitic converter .... I learned that even with green not fully dried wood the combustion for carbon wood must be 6 or 7 air to 1 of wood ratio .... I have researched learned about oil (used included) combustion for cooking and heating ... I have also understood that most wood stoves are used unknowingly to heat up the outside of commercial or residential premises ..... I have also learned about clay, stone and sand heat batteries that are more efficient than wood burning stoves for direct heating which wastes exponentially not only cash and time ..... I have also learned that foliage is wasted when this is most efficient in burning than solid wood for already being dusted when dry which ia the same method used for worldwide production of electricity with fosil charcoal which is grounded to a fine dust before feeding the furnace that feeds the water boiler that feeds double stage stram turbines that feed the electrical generators where the trick of efficiency is the dust ..... I have learned that iron dust burming is a great heat source with zero CO and CO2 producing only Iron Oxide which is recyclable .... and much more ...... Thanks X3 for sharing, your video helps lots of people like me because the world will be better with sharing individuals like you .... making a horizontal trunk feeder for any wood burning stove is rather cleverly simple which looks much like a rocket stove ... the trick is in where the air strikes the flame with multiple orifices .... I also saw a video of a house in Canada inside s glass shield where they farm even oranges, banana trees etc and all year round .... air is the best natural insulator and our atmosphere that keeps us all from freezing from the exteme cold of out of space. Well I hope we all do better things by sharing what is best... thanks again.

[@elisabethm9655]

Love my stone clad Hearthstone wood stove. I’m in the NE, so we have plenty of hardwood. Thanks for your tips and ideas...one thing I noticed was the fire smudging on your glass. Using clean white ash (no burnt charcoal bits) and a rag or paper towel dipped water in to clean it works well.

[@07negative56]

I replaced a BlazeKing with a Hearthstone stove. Don’t regret it. The radiant heat great. A solid 12 hour burns.

[@fredormanis5705]

Until you get some microscopic grit that will scratch the glass which isn't cheap.

[@anemone104]

Great vid. It's nice to see how other people do things in circumstances that are totally different to one's own. I'm from Dorset. It's small and crowded and trees everywhere. Rains a lot, especially in the winter and rarely gets significantly below freezing but will hover around freezing for weeks in the winter. That can be sodding miserable. I live in a semi bungalow on an ex-Council housing estate. Lots of neighbours really close. I heat entirely with wood I cut myself from an ancient woodland. I use hazel, a hardwood, 'cos it's what I have. I'm going to drop the following, hoping it'll help, starting from a fresh-felled living tree: 'Seasoning' just means leaving fresh-cut wood to lose its 'life water' - the water in the tissues that mediates all the life processes of the tree including respiration and photosynthesis. You can do this outside, uncovered in a typical UK summer. Conversely, if you shut fresh-felled wood in an unventilated place, you get mouldy wood. Seasoning may take a season or several seasons, a season being 1/4 of a year. Depends on how big your lumps of wood are and how wet the climate. Once life water is lost, the barriers to drying (bark and the healing of damaged cells) is broken down and the timber is free to dry out. Splitting speeds drying by breaching the barrier that the bark forms to drying - the split sections dry faster but un-split stuff will dry - only the time taken varies, longer for bigger/longer sections. A dead tree can be said to have seasoned while standing - no life water when you fell if the beetles have killed the tree. In a dry climate (or by summer's end here) standing dead wood can be pretty dry. Green hardwood is easiest split whilst green - especially noticeable if you are splitting with an axe. Splitting whilst green speeds seasoning and drying (of course). I don't bother splitting as my fuel is small diameter - it's derelict coppice, which is unusual. 'Green' means 'live' - scrape the bark back on thin-barked hardwoods and you will see chlorophyll - the cells in the underbark of a fresh-felled hardwood log will live and photosynthesize for some time, running on the life water remaining in the log until it is used up. Some hardwoods will put out shoots from spring-felled logs, or even roots when in contact with moist ground and willows can regenerate from a log or branch. Seasoning and drying both form different parts of preparation for burning - getting the wood as dry as possible so combustion is as efficient (and clean) as possible. You can prepare kindling size stuff for burning in a few weeks in a hot summer. Big butts for sawing may take years. If you have a nice dry barn with good ventilation, you can stack green logs and not worry about them 'til you need them months later. Once 'seasoned', preparation for drying can be slowed or reversed by re-wetting by rain or water in the soil - moisture content of the fuel can increase. Especially here where it rains frequently in winter and quite frequently in summer, too. Wet seasoning is a thing, but wet-seasoned wood is still wet until dried. Living here, pissing off the neighbours with a constantly-smoky wood burner would be a bad plan. Better to fly below the radar with properly prepared wood fuel so they don't notice when your burner is running. Was this any help at all?

[@alexjones9722]

Very helpful from pembrokeshire with a week's old stove 😊

[@MoSportsUSA]

Nice vid. Always best to have anecdotal info. Personally, I always split wood as soon as I can, best when it's frozen, it will then split very easily. It will also 'season' more readily since more internal grain is exposed.

[@stevekluge4224]

Ditto (western CT, Montecito BIS with outside air intake, heated air ducts to back of house)

[@NorthFork]

agreed I also split my rounds as soon as I cut them and let them season split. They dry way faster and since I use a hydraulic splitter its not any more effort on my part

[@klauskarpfen9039]

Her take on splitting wood after it has seasoned is definitely the wrong piece of advice - anyway for the types of wood I know.

[@JoshGroves-jn7rx]

​@@klauskarpfen9039 I agree. Especially with the hardwoods here in Appalachia. Green hickory, white oak, red oak, and many others split much easier than seasoned rounds.

[@JenniferRiley-b3g]

Jill😮HEAT RISES...and that is a beautiful ceiling height...the little switch above blades on unit switches to circulate air UP or down...from what I have read, in winter, have switch in position to push air down to bring back the heat, and in spring, switch the switch😊 so pulls hot air up...AND wanted to say i just discovered that fan you have on top of wood stove AND YOUR OPINION WAS FIRST ONE I HEARD...THANKS, have a good day and cozy nights!

[@rchuso]

I went a slightly different route: I over-insulated my house with double pane wood windows, foam in the walls, wool (shredded recycled wool carpet) in the ceiling, barrier under the house, dark steel roof, and then put in an HRV system to take all the heat from the attic (when the sun shines it heats nicely) and heat around the fireplace (if it detects any heat there) and distribute that around the house. For most of the year I don't need to run the fireplace. I also left the PNW, but went to NZ instead of WY.

[@PewPewPapi80085]

Sounds like a great way to accelerate a fire.

[@goorioles1976]

No such thing as over-insulation

[@keemez]

as long as you didn't go LG or BT QXYZ

[@rchuso]

@@keemez - too many TLA?

[@klauskarpfen9039]

WTFDTDAM???

[@raytribble8075]

We also lived by our wood-stoves when we lived in Cody, Casper and Rock Springs. I have always had basset hounds and all 4 of them gravitated to the hearth.

[@minhthang0811]

This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list kzbin.infoUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.

[@jedidiah5131]

I don't have a catalytic converter, but my stove is designed to burn the gases. My manual also recommends loading your wood in sideways for a longer burn time.....Thanks for the video.

[@jedidiah5131]

@Justin Sane I have a Drolet HT2000 it has whats called a Secondary Air system. I'm not sure how the re-burn works, it does have a few drilled metal tubes and baffles which I think assists with the re-burn and the air wash system which helps keep the glass clean.

[@jedidiah5131]

I just found a video on the two types....Comparing Catalytic to Secondary Air.

[@PeterLawton]

Good video -- I love a wood fire. A couple of things: my electric bill (with heat pump) tripled this year and I fixed it by turning on my ceiling fan up high like yours. I had not realized just how hot my upper space was to get my main floor comfy, which it was. So with your fan off, you may be burning more wood than needed. And for lighting the fire, I have found that a wadded up paper towel soaked with veggie oil burns like an oil candle for a while. If that's on the bottom of your wood stack inside the stove, it may save you time getting it going.

[@davegarber7964]

All wood stove manufacturers caution against using any petroleum-like propellants like oil, wax, gasoline, kerosene, etc., hence the term “WOODstove”.

[@mwnciboo]

Just use wood wool, natural fire lighters... no need for gas torches, oil rags or paper etc.

[@mattobermiller5041]

A fuel efficient stove is important but no where near the most important factor, by far the most important factor is BUILD A WOODSHED AND KEEP YOUR FIREWOOD BONE DRY!!! Any of the Blaze company stove models are top notch, possibly the best steel box stove there is but I would put any cheap EPA stove burning pretty much any wood species up against a Blaze model stove burning a hardwood and the cheap stove burning junk wood will win if the wood is DRY and the Blaze stove's hardwood is even just 3/4 dry. Lots of people burn wood that is pretty dry, it's been dead for a couple years and it burns ok, not to bad, nothing to complain about but once you get a woodshed and start really drying your wood, you'll kick yourself for not getting one sooner. You'll use WAY less wood and get more heat. Plus, you can utilize junk wood that you discarded before because it wasn't worth the effort. With a wood shed, junk wood becomes very worthwhile.

[@soonstrgzr]

Turning the ECO fan towards the flue pipe will blow even more warm air from the stove.

[@Chris_at_Home]

Actually I don’t like to cool the smoke in the chimney to much. I actually use a damper to keep the heat in the stove where it burns the wood more efficiently. We also have a fresh air intake at both our places.

[@catdaddy3728]

@@Chris_at_Home no way that fan cools the flue on a properly fired stove, we keep ours like that. Shine a flashlight on the fan and flue heatwaves in a dark room, you will see that fan hardly does anything more than look neat!

[@martinbeckmann9376]

@@Chris_at_Home every wood stove needs an out side air intake, otherwise it defeats the purpose. Burning indoor air is as dumb as using a fire place.😂

[@Chris_at_Home]

@@martinbeckmann9376 I tell people,that all the time. I tell them all the smoke going up the chimney has to be replaced from somewhere and if it isn’t a fresh air intake it is every crack in the house. I have a couple places and they are so tight that it is a requirement to make the stove work.

[@blacklotus2983]

Add another vote for Blaze King. I've had the Princess insert for 3 years now and can heat most of my 2600 sqft house with it even though it's in a bad location. I can get 10+ hour burns on hard wood with ease, only need to load it up 2 times a day, maybe an odd log now and then depending on how hot i run it. Also a good tip if you are going to heat your whole house with wood, it is easier to push warm air with cold air than to pull it into an area with cold air. If you can bring a fan powered duct from the far side of the house to right next to the wood stove it will spread the heat a lot better across the house (I use two registers, some flex duct, and a small greenhouse fan w/ remote).

[@robertslagle2208]

We have a Blazeking and its great, It's 15 years old & priceless

[@RobertViani]

Good vid! We’ve been burning for 17 years out here in the North East. If we replace our stove (Lopi Answer) a Blaze King will take its place. You burn what you have. Between EAB , drought and Gypsy Moth infestation We have tons of Ash and Oak die off out here. When we boil (make maple syrup ) I use pine it burns beautifully fast and hot with no creosote issues. Like you said. A seasoned wood is an absolute must!

[@myronhorvathsk]

Your Blaze King seems to work quite well. I just upgraded to a Harman TL300 this year. So far it looks like it's going to be a great unit with no shortage of heating ability when we get down into the -40°F's this winter and it seems to use less wood by a fair bit than my old one.

[@bayside6207]

"Lopi"

[@lostinmyspace4910]

@@bayside6207 I agree with Lopi. I've had mine for 15 years, has no catalytic converter, just te trhee secondary burn pipes, and it's efficient, and kicks out so much heat. I don't know what I'd do if they don't make these Lopi Liberty stoves. Mine is the largest one they make, and it was a wise choice for us. I just have one regret. Not installing the Outside Air Kit to bring in fresh cold air. My salesman never even suggested or offered the kit, and I nver knew about the option or the importance. Shame on him. Now they don't offer them anymore. They're sold out.

[@brucegordon4874]

i like how your husband described how a catalytic stove works. it was simple and to the point unlike some that i have listened too. also, i like how he started the wood on fire with a propane torch. my wife and i just purchased a hybrid wood stove, which they are installing as i speak. keep warm

[@aliceholbert1246]

Any stove is only as good as the person running it.

[@yLeprechaun]

The Princess from Blaze King is amazing!! Keep your wood dry, not just cured-dry. And then set back and enjoy. I loved mine. Left it when we sold our property, but will get another one. I burnt pine also. Had to clean chimney often, but never had a problem with the catalyst- ever. Only complaint I have is no ash box. I hate the dust during clean out.

[@tt600pch]

I won a truckload of wood logs that look like a lot like your load once at work. Mostly lodgepole with larch and red fir mix. I took about 2 months and built a hydraulic bucksaw system. My kids are not home any more so I have to do my wood solo. I fill my woodshed before winter so I can enjoy the fruit of my labor. One more thing with wood heat. When we get a wind or ice storm we still have a way to cook.

[@davegarber7964]

Why cook on it when it’s storming? My propane stove still works when it’s below 0°F outside.

[@tt600pch]

@@davegarber7964 No electricity for electric stove. Ice and wind storms here have taken our power for long periods of time.

[@sekatyoukko69]

Hi Jill😊 Thanks for the great video. Many useful tips we can use😊 here in Finland we build big stoves out of stones. It take a while worming up but when it's hot it'll keep the heat for days 🔥 cheers 🍻 🇫🇮🇺🇲

[@captivethoughts1745]

If you have a lumber mill in the area, see if you can work a deal in getting them to deliver slab wood (scraps from the squaring off process that they cannot make 2x4's etc. out of. ). Nice thing about them is you don't have to split them.

[@Mike_S_Swift]

We had a Blaze King Royal Heir that finally wore out after about 30 years. It still worked but was using a lot more wood and not lasting as long as it should. We presently have a Hearthstone stove and miss the Blaze King set & forget ease of use. This new stove is already scheduled to be replaced with a Blaze King 40 sometime next month. I bought a used 90ish Blaze King Catalytic stove for my big shop to replace a working Earth Stove non catalytic model. The Earth Stove worked well but a lot of heat went up the stack. I put one of those stovepipe fans in the stack and that worked great. Not so much with with blaze King catalytic the stack rarely gets hot enough to kick on. However the BK does have pretty powerful fans that push a lot of hot air out. I have two ceiling fans in the shop up about 20’ that help circulate. My house has high ceilings and my ceiling fans are on most of the time unless the stove is getting cold. Can’t wait for the BK to get installed this new one is a PITA 😂

[@JamesCouch777]

I've burned wood my whole life and I'm 68. I've used all kinds of wood stoves and fireplace inserts. Definitely prefer the stoves over the inserts. Those are some good tips 👍👍

[@brianwilson8119]

We have an older 1980s Blaze King. I forget the model, but it looks just like yours but it has a full metal door without a window. The door has old style porcelain tiles set in it. I absolutely love it!! Four pieces of wood the size of my calf will last about 3 - 5 hrs. We burn all day, Nov - March, and only use about 3-4 cords/winter here in Ohio

[@surfinmuso37]

Great advice, thanks. Just saying, we had our ceiling fan on low all the time and we used far less fuel-so much heat up there! Cheers

[@timlaine6268]

In Maine and I've been burning wood for approximately 17 years, in my adult life. I gave up on glass front stoves about 8 years ago. I have never purchased wood only on a few instances I've purchased pressed blocks. I get some kindling from work and a few 4x4 hardwood blocks to accent the 3ish cords that I burn annually in my small tempwood.

[@AfricanSouthernCross]

I see your husband started the fire with a load of wood then started the initial start at the bottom, try starting it from the top and see how that works, in Sweden they do that and it supposedly works great saving you wood as the fire burns more efficiently and doesn’t “burn out” too fast, I hope that made sense, lol.

[@Joe_Dirt82]

I do that in my garage. Works great and with fire at top helps heat the chimney faster.

[@jimzeleny7213]

@@Joe_Dirt82 Also works great for charcoal BBQ's. No chemicals and glowing coals in 20 minutes

[@smallflower7285]

How that we are talking about our neighbours, the swedes, let me throw in my observations. 1) Agree with the light from the top: The catalytic reaction requires quite a lot of heat. On the other hand heat releases the carbon gases. If the heat from below releases the carbon gases on the wood above, but the heat does not get to top the fireplace where the secondary burning is supposed to happen, you just emit a lot of particles to the air. 2) Have regular maintenance. Here in Finland you have to have a professional sweeper clean your fireplace / chimney every year. Very few fires start from fire places :) 3) The style of heating with wood seems to be very different. Having a nice fire for a long time seems to be a virtue in US. But as you remember, burning requires oxygen, so replacement air needs to come from somewhere. And in Finland that air is very cold during the winter. So our approach is to have a massive stone fireplace (with all these fancy catalytics etc.efficiency gadgets) which stores the heat. You burn 2-3 loads of wood, which heats the stone. Then you close the chimney. And the stone starts to radiate the temperature to the room, doing so for day or two. This approach of course calls for very well insulated houses with controlled airflows from / to the rooms. We have triple glazing, newly build houses have 2-3 feet of insulation etc. 4) We take in the dry firewood a day earlier just to let the moisture on the splits to dry. The dryer the better. And we burn just softwood, never have an issue.

[@davegarber7964]

@@smallflower7285 Btu’s are Btu’s, regardless of whether you store it in a mass or not. The same amount of outside air replaces the chimney air in either scenario, US vs Finnish. “....... that air is very cold during the winter.” That’s why it’s not called “summer”.

[@NorthFork]

Wranglerstar does the top down method and it works really well

[@leenewman4344]

I live in the UK, through a lot of research we basically use our stove the same as you guys in northern America, we have a secondary burning stove that also burns the smoke and gasses ,it's brill, I get through around 6 chords of wood per winter which is scavenged for free and well seasoned, myself and my wife do all the hard work through the summer months to prepare us for the winter, I also have gas central heating, i fired it up in October just to make sure it worked properly then turned it off again, (wished I'd have had a stove that ran that aswell) but you live and learn, It's a lot of hard work but you can't knock free heat!

[@marischwab3597]

An old timer told me when stacking your wood, make sure the bark side is up this will keep your wood from getting saturated.

[@RominaJones]

Had a Blaze King for about 12 years before I had to replace the catalytic converter, and it cost approx $300 in Canada. Not a bad deal for 12 years and you can see the combs start to crumble when taking it out to clean it so you know when it's due. I have since gone for a non-catalytic Pacific Energy but Blaze King served me well when I had it and has since moved on to a new home.

[@alumniduck]

Just an FYI I learned that wood like oak and maple splits best when you split it green... within an hour of cutting. After it sits in the sun half a day then you are pounding rocks. Once you split it the wood seasons faster. If you have acres and acres then you can let wood lay around for a year but if you dont have the room, then you have to be more efficient with the space you have.

[@andyphillips7435]

Good point. Air dried oak seasons/ dries out , one inch( depth) per year. Also each year, the log doubles its heat output , up to 4 years.

[@Northman1963]

The little lightweight vogelzang boxwood stove I use is a BTU monster. I heat a 12 by 20 foot building from below freezing to 70 in 30 minutes. Hardwood of course, maple, oak and ironwood.

[@cheer2930]

We LOVE our Blaze King Princess insert, use it as our primary heat source here in Alaska, and have used it for close to 15 years now. The longest burn time has been close to 40 hours! It just depends on how full you fill the wood box and much you damper the stove down. We use soft wood too - mostly spruce and hemlock, though we do burn alder occasionally. These are great stoves!

[@michaelk2420]

Nice video, thanks. I love the segment about the community coming together to help a friend.

[@handycrowd]

Was surprised to see you putting cold wood straight from outside in the stove. That kills fires here in Norway. We try to get the wood inside the house minimum 24 hours beforehand to 'preheat' up to room temperature 🙂

[@cheryll5496]

Even in southern Australia where it's not that cold, we have a 3 or 4 day supply in the house to warm up and dry out a little more.

[@jakejake7162]

Thanks for the tip, on my second year of using a wood stove in New England and am trying to find ways to burn efficiently since I fear I might have not chopped enough. Grateful I got lots of hardwoods around though 😁

[@handycrowd]

@@jakejake7162 I don't think that 'fear' ever goes away. My racks are all full and yet I got a call this week from a mate saying, some trees comin' down at ours, want the wood? So I'm a buckin' tomorrow in the snow lol! Yeah, getting the wood warm makes a huge difference. Learned that from the cabin guys up here. As they leave the cabin they always throw 2 or 3 bags of firewood through the door before locking up. Why I asked? Well the floor is heated a little so the wood will be nice and toasty for nest weekend :-)

[@stefanzzz6778]

Here in NZ, dry wood is the thing. Dry, it rains a lot. So a wood shed that has airflow is a must. Well seasoned wood, we always have 2 years supply. End of winter we replace what we burned, and the next winter start on other side. We have a fire storage bin outside, and inside, but it’s not that big a deal to pre warm. One thing we do, the air that vents into the fire comes from the roof space next to chimney, & not the room. So it’s pre warmed and dry air. This is ducted into back of firebox, and you can regulate it. This is extra efficient. If you think about your warm air going into firebox from the room, what replaces that air, cold air from outside.

[@Brough1111]

Great point

[@michaelmctaggart4620]

Hey , I live in North central Alberta and burn wood as the main heat source. I have exactly the same stove and fan as you I burn wood for at least 7 months out of the year, our wood is poplar, spruce, and Manitobia Maple I have changed the converter 2 times, the last time about 1/3 of the converter was totally burned out, so it's good to have a look at it every summer or so, I think.

[@jackiegammon2065]

The Fisher stove in your video is the exact model that I have used for the past 21 years, without any issues. As you mentioned sometimes you simply use what you have in your area. I live in Maine, so have ample choice of what type of wood I want to burn, and would never burn pine. So perhaps the balance here is that my older woodstove because I have lots of choices for different types of firewood. I also would always have my wood undercover because of snow or rain. You on the other hand may have a newer, more effiecent stove but not a lot of choice of wood. So in the end, I think we are fairly comparable. Great video, thanks for sharing!