Factors Deciding Boulder Comps - the Art of Akiyo Noguchi

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

To be a climbing comp fan in 2018 is to fall in love with Miho and Akiyo.

[@timelineenjoyer]

The Japanese Climbing Team always looks smooth and relaxed. Seems like they train on efficiency and flexibility rather than grueling regimens focused on power that require tons of time to repair the body and prone to injury.

[@LeeFerikson]

there's no "smooth style" athletes or "power style" athletes anymore. All of the best have both. Akiyo is a powerhouse, I guarantee her ability to generate power or force with her muscles in service of actual climbing skills is better than nearly anyone. You can not smooth your way out of an extremely high power move that the routesetters will always throw into the problems, Akiyo wins because she can do those.

[@Levup_XP_Outdoors]

yeah she is good at using it when she needs to. 3:37 good example of finding ways to use minimal amount of strength and minimal amounts of moves.

[@leoingson]

Right on time - my jaw dropped yesterday watching Chongqing 2018, thanks!

[@RockClimbinGrandma]

Thank you for this! Reminds me that sometimes "exploring" your options while still on the wall is a strategy... instead of just powering up as quickly as possible.

[@jonahgregory2357]

whoa i bought your performance rock climbing book at a bookstore a month ago, small world! thanks for making this video too super well done

[@briseboy]

Who IS that man nesting in the hole? Does his species commonly use artificial climbing walls for their nests? Does he leave to get food for his young? At what time of year are they normally seen making holes and building their nests? They do not appear aggressive . Do their young when first leaving the nest, climb upwards, or downclimb?

[@SWBPro]

Lol

[@tomaszgorczyca1080]

Great stuff Udini! I am enjoying all your videos but this is best of them all. Her climbing style is really an art! Excellent combination of power, mobility, endurance, precision, persistence, economisation and right choises of wide spectrum of moves based on her amazing own body knowledge. High class video for high class climbing! 🤙👏👏👏

[@therealudini]

Thank you very much!

[@Target10a]

Wahnsinn, wieviel Zeit sich Akiyo nehmen kann, um verschiedene Lösungen auszuprobieren!

[@sarahpreston4558]

AH! THE PHOTOGRAPHER AT 0:23!

[@Pochi1]

They need to be smacked. They should not be using a flash, that has got to be distracting.

[@inniswah8098]

Yeah I was just looking at the creep going "At least turn the flast off man..."

[@honkmonk4638]

Just relax ... and look for the best solution ... even if you are bottom up on 2 creepyholds ... unbelievable ... really... hands down for one of the best female climbers in the world ... bodycontrol over everything ... amazing ... thanks Udo!

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

People forgetting Akiyo is 10 years older than Janja and was planning to retire but decided to participate at the Tokyo OG! Throughout the years she managed to adapt to the new style and stayed at the top! Constantly giving a challenge to Janja! My favourite female climber of all times!

[@therealudini]

Janja is standing on Aikido's shoulders!

[@donjorgenson9906]

Udini at its finest once again. Very nice video with some very stellar climbing.

[@steamsteam6607]

Absolute tank. Amazing

[@aerocap]

She's wonderful to watch

[@alexandermuller3992]

I just think that her strategy for bouldering is really sound and something like this: try it statically first, unless you're sure it is (or you *can* do) a dyno - because dynos tend to be unreliable moves (speed vs precision) and observation doesn't give certain information about how incut, or if at all, some holds are. At least that's what it seems to be for me :)

[@diabl2master]

Right, we often see her do several moves per comp statically where other climbers do it at least somewhat dynamically

[@YahkoKun]

I do top rope mostly, on overhang routes there are moves that "require" dyno and I absolutely hate doing dynos because chances for an injuries are much higher. I rather not do a route and work on proper static movies and knowing my own body's capacities and then come back and do it as statically as possible.

[@oak77ley]

Thanks for this great video. I learned a lot.

[@rotomath360]

Thank you for this Klettermeister!

[@JenniferBui]

Very lovely and well thought out :)

[@verticalnetwork1]

Great Video! Thanks for sharing!

[@grahammarkhorn]

So Udini doesn't post many vids....but man when he does its worth it.

[@pasopschrikdraad]

Graham Mark quality over quantity :)

[@truck6859]

Incredible!

[@kseniiamelnykova9022]

Coll video! But W3 not only flash. Ekaterina flashed too

[@therealudini]

Ксения Мельникова you are right, sorry about that! She climbed this Problem the Best!

[@Sturzfaktor2]

Flash = reaching the top at the first attempt.

[@r.b.4611]

That silly commentator said Akiyo did everything in a harder way than everyone else. If that were true how come she won the comp? Is she so good that she can add a handicap and still win easily? Unlikely, come on.

[@ViXoZuDo]

the hardest way sometimes is the fastest way. And this competitions are about time, not how.

[@BlocBusters]

great detailed analysis!

[@DisasterPieceTV]

Great video, one of my favorites. I was wondering about the audio track

[@therealudini]

Thanks Stephen! I did most of the music myself!

[@andres21aj]

Awesome video!

[@derekbelanger7839]

Thanks, Udo

[@jeffyboyreloaded]

sheer bad luck on her behalf that janja wasn't born a decade later

[@fernasclimb]

Thanks!

[@macmac4666]

They are not human, they are spider

[@shigerumakino3421]

他のクライマーさんより筋肉質な感じは意外とないのですね。 体重も軽く、柔軟なのかもしれない。 あとひとつひとつの動作が丁寧な感じがします。 きちんと掴むとか、足を置くとかそういうこと。 グラつくシーンがあまりないような。 アレックス・プッチョ選手との比較だと、ホールドにきちんと重心が乗っていて体重が外に逃げていないのがわかる気がする。お腹を壁につけてるような。これだと体力奪われないかな。 他の選手もこういうの見てるんでしょうけど、なかなか真似できないのかもしれないですね。 素人目ですけど、いちおうボルダリングやったことはあります

[@briseboy]

A really, REALLY good way to discover whether the music you've added to a video should even be there: Turn it OFF, and sense whether you feel relief.

[@eilajuutilainen3369]

She is smart.

[@ToooooooooooM]

Name of first song?

[@therealudini]

Most of the times I mix the tracks of clips myself!

[@eugenia4434]

The video is great, but in W3 it wasn't the only flash. Ekaterina Kipriianova also flashed it

[@therealudini]

Yes, I'm really sorry about this mistake - Ekaterina did this problem best!

[@eugenia4434]

no worries :) thanks for the video! It's always a pleasure to watch Akiyo climb.

[@joeblowgringo5359]

Miho!!!

[@steamsteam6607]

We need the song at around 8:00 please

[@ShinzoFukui]

すごいなー

[@azukarzuchastux8066]

John 3:16 KJV: For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life. Romans 10:9 “That if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved.” King James Version

[@sekopaat21]

en ymmärrä mitä vittuu tossa ny oli ihmeellistä

[@BBL_NL]

annoying music

[@QueridaYoutification]

Hope she sleep with woman