Thermostat and coolant change on a 1998 VW A3 Jetta Tdi 1.9l

In this video I will show you how to change the thermostat and coolant in a 1998 VW A3 Jetta Tdi 1.9l turbo diesel with 365k miles. I also show you how to remove
the power stering pump which is the most difficult part of the job.

[@davidsferrazzo]

I have a 96 Passat tdi and need to replace my t stat thank you for the video this helped me a lot

[@m9m471]

There is one important thing left out in this video there are 2 o- rings that should be replaced the first o- ring goes on the thermostat flange and the second o- ring goes on the end of the thermostat flange that inserts into the radiator hose/ flange adapter. Not all thermostat flanges come with both o- rings.... So make sure to get 2 new o-rings.

[@DjDanThaLoco]

Thanks for this Tutorial!

[@sceamson]

thats good detailed.thank you

[@fixingall5821]

Grazie...

[@s4mmaf]

Very good tutorial! Thank you

[@DieselWorld]

+Samuel Esteves Your welcome!

[@timwaters7185]

I've had to perform this task 2X in 1yrs. time. I remove the radiator hose from the Thermostats Plastic housing once I've got the pump out of the way, by removing the hose at that area/point, it allows the coolant to fall more strait down allowing you to capture more of it without it flowing down the engine block picking up debris along the way, just loosen it to start with and take a few mins. to let the bulk of the cooling fluid free fall into a clean oil pan then filter it is you need to, that G4 is anywhere from $19-$22 a gal. and it takes more than one gal. to refill the engine and radiator.I found that if I leave the bottom center bolt in the first lower bracket that comes out with the pump, everything is held in place until I take that one out. Also, there are actually 2 separate brackets involved but it is clear to see as you disassemble it all. There's an upper bracket that must be removed after the pump housing and its bracket are dropped down. I use an old wire cloths hanger, the ones with the round paper bottom, there's a chassis hole front bottom that's around 1/2" hole size to hang the top of the cloths hanger in then simply bend one of the other leg ends of the hanger as tight up and in the point you are hanging it all from and this puts the pump forward of the Thermostats plastic housing to be removed. To hold the Thermostat in place on reassembly , (Thermostat goes in 1st, then the rubber O Ring last) I use Mr Gasket Water Pump Sealant and I apply it to both sides of the Thermostat, thin film mind ya as this will hold the Thermostat to the engine block and the O Ring to the side facing you of the Thermostat but you need to have the housing in your other hand to place it as fast as possible, there's really no other easier way that works, trust me, I've tried....lol. I don't use a torque wrench to tighten the small two 10mm bolts that hold the Thermostat and its plastic housing in place, instead, I tighten it after allowing the Gasket Sealer to harden up a bit as is recommended on the tubes instructions. Anyway, those two 10mm bolts that hold the Thermostat and couples it all to the engine block, don't be afraid to tighten it up to what feels good which is pretty tight because you sure the heck don't want to have to take the pump off just because you didn't tighten those two 10mm bolts up enough. Oh, and don't forget to tighten those two bolts up after you've allowed the form a gasket to solidify that recommended time allowance. One other thing, don't overtighten the pump belt, if you get it to tight you are most apt to prematurely wear out the belt or the bearing in the pump. Hope this helps anyone and all out there.

[@robwells5753]

@@timwaters7185 thanks Tim 👊

[@dankbobby]

i tiny dab of grease will hold the o-ring.