These 3PDT Pedal Switches are TERRIBLY Designed - Creation Audio Labs MK 4.23 Clean Boost Repair

[@patricknicolucci5073]

Mk 4 23 is a bible verse Mark chapter 4 line 23 "If anyone has ears to hear, let him hear " very clever

[@racheldriver989]

Except, that with the busted switch, nobody can hear. Maybe Exodus 4:11 helps make sense of it.

[@godislove8740]

Maybe this makes sense of it all. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3e4dZ6metd5gbs

[@randallissimo]

As soon as you said you were going to open up the new switch, I was like, "nope, don't do that". Those tabs are meant to be used once.

[@paulperry7091]

Yeah, I shouted "NO! NO!" so loud it frightened my partner... of course, I had the advantage of having dealt with these POS switches too many times.

[@faultlessguitarsandamps1116]

Tech Tip for you Brad ..... I recently had to de-solder a similar switch that had pins which were a tight fit in plated thru hole PCB .. Neither solder wick or an electric vacuum de-solder tool would clear the solder enough to remove the switch . My solution was to remove as much solder as possible and then apply ChipQuik low temperature solder , used primarily for removing surface mount IC's (58 degrees C melting point ) . Then reheat all the pins and it will remain molten for several seconds whilst the part is removed . It's not cheap , but does a great job . No damage to plated thru holes . Easy .

[@TheGuitologist]

Reupload due to editing mistake. I had a whole section of video what was supposed to run at 700% speed running at 70% speed. Made for tedious viewing. :D

[@hadin101]

I noticed... I thought my computer was dying hah

[@gringopig]

Lol I watched it all and never noticed.

[@gringopig]

Hmm getting unsupported video format errors whilst viewing now.

[@TheColonelKlink]

The Guitologist "It's like deja vu all over again." Yogi Berra

[@TheGuitologist]

You've entered the Twilight Zone.

[@iagobroxado]

Funny how people think differently - I would have changed the whole 3PDT for a brand new one since the beginning instead of transplanting some parts.

[@gimmeeinboxback3860]

Notice those fingernails are only on his right hand? There is a reason for that.

[@RobertLandrum13]

@Derek Charette Wow. The most ignorant shit I've seen today. Did it ever occur to you that those are long for a reason? Anyone with half a brain could put two and two together and see that maybe it's for finger picking. I mean duh.

[@RobertLandrum13]

There's no need to replace the housing that's soldered to the board. Why? It's a plastic housing that isn't a moving part so there's no wear. You'd be doing more damage by heating up that board to remove all 9 pins and the heating it up again to install a new one and for what? A new plastic piece that wasn't needed? Think smarter not harder.

[@seniorjuanvaldez]

funny how most critics dont even have any vids uploaded to their channels

[@godislove8740]

I respect dirty fingers for clear reasons. I'll watch the vid carefully and judge accordingly. ,Thanks!

[@hieronymus932]

I think by supporting the board from underneath you’re causing strain on the solder joints where the switch is soldered to the board and those soldered joints might eventually crack. That’s why most pedal builders attach the switch to the case and nothing else.

[@GregoryGuay]

My old Fulltone MOSFET On/Off switch It’s not working so I appreciate this video. I’m not sure I should take apart the switch or learn the skill of soldering and replace!?

[@mikecollins9789]

I'm surprised, for all the cool stuff this guy does electrically, he's clueless with the mechanical side. The switch is cheap, but not a bad design. The original switch broke because the cap that limited the plunger travel fell off, so the plunger pushed too far, separating the switch. By separating the new switch the way he did, he caused 100% of that looseness problem that he "fixed" with glue. If he had just soldered in the new switch and not been lazy about it, the pedal would have been properly fixed.

[@LTJR.]

Yeah he's working like a speed freak like tweakers I've seen sort of fixing stuff that isn't broken. There's a million of those switches out there, and cost about 3bucks. Back when they were scarce and 15 $20 I could see maybe trying to fix them because twenty bucks was a lot of money back then. I'm in no way saying he's on drugs, just to make that clear. I just turned on the phone and it was here but I have not been watching these anymore cuz it seems like the shows have really changed with a sort of negative slant like everything sucks. It seems that many of these shows have changed when they get a lot of viewers, only Uncle Doug and mr. Carlson's lab have consistently been the same upbeat style for years

[@mc6712]

Yeah, just desolder the damn switch from the board and put the new one in there, instead of ruining a brand new switch to half-ass repair a trashed one.

[@patrickrosington1174]

Yeah, id demand a refund. I watch his videos because its hilariously stupid. He does some half ass stuff quite often.

[@rodiaz6652]

Yup, I would've expected that he at least knew how those switches work and went straight for a replacement but sounds like he's completely ignorant

[@breakfastbuddy5]

it is a weak design , since people stomp on it , since its a stomp box , and he fixed the easiest way ,

[@Claude77]

It's not a design flaw.. The blue 3PDT switch is used everywhere without any backing, in form of hot glue, or epoxy.. And it works fine, you should not have taken the switch apart, but unsolderet the old switch and replaced it.. But I think you would have killed the PCB with the soldering tools you have..

[@Claude77]

I agree if the old switch didn't have a "travel limiter" But the blue switches are everywhere they work fine in 99% of true bypass pedals build the last 10 years :)

[@TheGuitologist]

Sure, this switch will work until is fails.Eventually they will ALL fail if mounted like this, especially if they have no lip to limit the distance the switch can be depressed. Even with the lip, the constant action will eventually work the four mounting feet loose against the housing. A superior design would include some kind of mounting for the PCB to the top of the chassis or a medium density foam rubber cushion on the back of the PCB to help support the board against this downward force. Relying on four little grappling hooks to hold the switch is asking for it, long term.

[@Claude77]

Sorry but you are looking for a problem that is not there, you would not have a problem with the new switch if you had not taken it apart.. The switches are used in A LOT of pedals

[@PoJoWo]

Nothing he's done in disassembling it has altered its integrity, which was limited by its own inherent fault. He's protected the board and tracks by taking a mechanical approach, any fault if at all is from wear caused by the over excursion of the original actuator without the travel limiter pushing down on the base of the switch, how else would it have been blown apart before he opened it? The backing, new actuator, and epoxy will cover any of these eventualities and more. It's no hack when it's now far more sound than the original spec surely? Pretty harsh word that.

[@duene2k]

PoJoWo, the integrity was already compromised, since someone else seemed to have opened it before, maybe to clean or fix it. look at the marks in the plastic. replacing the switch from thr beginning would have been the proper choice. i know replacing these switches is a pain without the proper tools, but still. also this is nothing more than a hack. now, whenever there is too much pressure, there will be pressure on the switches pins. in my experience these are pretty sensitive as well. also the whole construction of the pedal just begs for failure. that pcb coated in black epoxy (unfixable! still don't get why people do it.) being zip tied to the other pcb just screams mechanical stress.

[@Bleats_Sinodai]

I honestly think you should have changed the switch. It's a standard 3PDT switch used in many modern pedals, and I have not seen anybody complain about them breaking easily. But kudos to you for your effort! I recommend that, next time you open one of those up, instead of bending the tabs up, bend the little "fork" ends on them inward, so that the top simply slides out without effort (it's how they do it from factory). Also, you should try using Threadlocker glue to keep it in one piece. That stuff is strong, it flows well so you don't need a lot of it, it dries in a couple of hours, and it's gonna make sure the switch pretty much never comes apart again. I'd even recommend putting a drop on each of the little "forks" on new switches, just to be sure.

[@gregg4164]

You should get over yourself because the design of that switch and the application it was used in on this pedal is crap.

[@Bleats_Sinodai]

When I said it was a standard 3PDT switch, I meant the footprint. You can change the badly-designed one by the "hat" one because they're drop-in replacements. I don't understand what you mean by "get over yourself". I was trying to be helpful so he can do a better job if he chooses to work on more pedals in the future. I think he did great, actually.

[@derekscanlan4641]

@@Bleats_Sinodai they do break easily - that's why i searched up this video. joyo and dr.j use them. I've had two faulty switches so far

[@claytushaywood3823]

get a better soldering iron and a good desoldering pump- then replacing that switch would be a 5 minute job. Those 3pdt switches break all the time- the best ones are only made for like 3k hits. that's why pedal builders are going towards using dpdt switches with optical true bypass and relay switching using momentary soft touch switches that have much longer life

[@zander1323]

Pedal builders are not "going towards" using DPDT - some are, but it's for "clickless" and "popless" switching - not because DPDT switches are "more durable"

[@randallabracadabra]

You can get 200k switch cycle 3PDT stomps now from a company called DeMont/Guyatone for $15 with free shipping. Hakko Japan also makes an outstanding FR-301 De-soldering iron for under $300. I got Hakko's earlier FR-300 120v model for $200 direct from Japan.

[@lovemyswitches]

@@randallabracadabra We sell those switches! lovemyswitches.com/super-premium-3pdt-latched-foot-switch-soft-click/

[@notyetskeletal4809]

Yay. I love the soft touch switches.

[@the-np4mr]

(((true bypass)))

[@kenjimac2211]

The very fact that you were able to open the switch so easily proves there is a design flaw. I have seen DPTT, DPDT, SPDT and others built so well you couldn't open them without destroying them. I agree 100% with ya Brad.

[@abelincoln95]

That's the whole thing with pedals. You only need to "push" it with your toes, but everybody wants to "stomp" it!! Great job, Brad!!

[@josephtravers777]

Wonder who came up w/ the name 'stomp box'? Heh :^)

[@soundknight]

I'm at a gig and my pedal just started doing this dying sound :( Thanks for posting this video Brad or will be a great help. I love this pedal so much I want to buy another one and the boost.

[@marcuslewitzki4610]

Hey Brad! Could you do a video showing how to swap out a standard latching switch for a momentary switch? I.e. the smooth, TC Electronic type switch.

[@nymsmacgregor7232]

I've had 4 of the aqua switches and 2 of the black ones fall apart internally with simply minimal soldering. I'm about to start using knife switches I'm so fed up. The solder just destroys the internal contacts.

[@crbielert]

desoldering and replacing seems easier to me, but hey however it works best for you. Love the vids and keep it up man, one of my favorite YT channels you got. If I ever get my parts bins out of my buddy's garage I'll send you a pedal kit for xmas

[@TheGuitologist]

+crbielert thanks for watching. I agree, replacing the switch in the beginning would have been easier.

[@crbielert]

Although I must say breaking the switch down was interesting and it just might help some of us out with broken pedals and a lack of soldering iron/skills

[@abjr2010]

7:28 the whole deal about the new contacts I laughed my ass off I know your first thought the factory screwed up. Like "doesn't anyone make anything good any more?!!!"Your remind me so much of myself working on stuff.

[@jimsuber6784]

Use your rubber feet to prop up the switch

[@utubehound69]

There ya go.

[@paulj0557tonehead]

@The Guitologist I didn't see this until after I wrote the story about the old (larger, taller) NOS bright/dim automotive/aviation footswitches I found. Actually here is a *_low profile_* , *_rugged new equip._* floor brite/dim sw. for $4.16 on Amazon, > *_Standard Motor Products DS72T Dimmer Switch_* Okay, so they are limited to SPDT config., but you can use a 'quiet' active-IC SW.' which is preferable in many instances. [orig. comment, good mounting tip... A few years ago here in Columbus,OH at the really cool Eclectiques Antique Mall (4 story house, wall to wall antiques) I scored a big box of 27 NOS McDonnell Douglas "automobile and aircraft" floor mounted, foot operated BRIGHT/DIMMER SWITCHES. I paid $5 for the whole box. These SPDT bright switches were each in their own original brick red colored box with black writing and McDonnell Douglas logo. That alone made it worth grabbing them. At any rate, I thought it would be neat to use the switches for stomp boxes. So I built a few fuzz boxes with them. They are pretty indestructible. The profile of these things are rather tall and they are a bit CLICKY! But they work, AND DO LOOK VERY COOL. Especially with the two stainless bolts anchoring them to the case. I use a Greenlee 3/4" RADIO CHASSIS PUNCH (AV11) (these are great tools!) to make the hole for the shaft foot sw., but the 'push button cap' is wider, so I take the bright switch apart (simple), remove the button cap, feed the shaft through the 3/4" hole, then put the button cap on. It makes for a really clean look. [looks like the new stock varieties are perma-sealed, so just get a Greenlee radio chassis punch that is bigger. I use these punches to make perfect chassis holes. I even have a 1" square punch. great for punching out for (Fender ps) transformers. Ultimately the Bright/Dim Switch isn't nearly as practical as it is cool aesthetically. I could see recreating a throwback tribute that looks the same, but maybe smaller and quieter.🚀🚀

[@whynotme5926]

I've never seen so many experts in my life!!!!!!!

[@KozmykJ]

I winced when I saw where you were going with that parts swap idea. Now I understand the thinking, but having tried similar switch repairs myself I know that they're better off replaced. The construction is such that the closure integrity is right on the margin to start with. Opening and re-closing is just eating into that margin. Also note that Y split in the clip legs plays a part as well; difficult to tighten by hand. I'll bet that that bit is done in a press at the factory. Still, you got it fixed in the end...

[@DerBlutsauger]

10-15 years ago Creation Audio Labs was a respected group of people in Nashville who would do a great job refurbishing your console or effects units. Now, it's a couple of hapless interns in a barn with no AC or heat, sewing batteries into electric blankets. Occasionally, they do a run of pedals and MW-1s, but it's not even remotely the same gear it used to be. Now it's the cheapest Chinese circuit boards Alex can find, "assembled" into the cheapest recycled metal chassis he can get. If you can find an old MW-1 or Holy Fire, it is a worthwhile purchase, although there are better, more modern alternatives now. But the current stock is not even remotely in the same league.

[@glytch5]

A lot of companies are using these now for both pedal clone kits and the true bypass mod for cybabys and anything with true bypass mod... this was a good video man... glad you came across this. My switch is not having this issue but it is made by EH... not sure if that has anything to do with it.

[@boggsty]

When i saw the new switch i instantly thought that laying these little plates sidewards could be used to bridge the contact, or am i wrong?

[@kage1974]

Early Fulltone pedals used these switches. However, he glued (not sure what kind, probably epoxy) the contact points on the side of the switch. Not a new problem per se. After watching the follow up video to this I'll humbly defend your point. The switch does have that inherent flaw, and indeed pedal makers have no control over that. Mike Fuller had the insight some twenty years ago to reinforce that weak point on the switch. I still broke it in a similar manner (the switch came apart) and had to replace it.... nature of the beast.

[@bayougtr]

Could you use one of those rubber feet instead of hot glue? The BYOC SilverPony kit has the same switch.

[@DaDamuse]

i would never have thought to fix the switch like that but that's clever

[@darkallyrecordings4931]

Ouch....That was a rough one bud.

[@anthonywatson754]

I'm Johnny come lately, but this is a case of the original switch being a cheap, low quality part. I've built and repaired hundreds of pedals and they all use the same standard footswitch. I've never seen one destruct like that. The best solution for bad foot switches is just to replace them.

[@garymelnyk9370]

17:14 it came on by itself. Watch the led light.

[@jeremywinnett6352]

Yep. Good eye. Switch is still crap. I don't get the bandaiding approach and this pedal's operation will only ever get worse until they have someone replace the switch. If someone doesn't want to deal with desoldering, use a $1 3pdt pcb and transplant or rebuild the other parts. Or just call Creation. They're a good group of dudes and I'm sure they'd send you another switch and PC on the cheap.

[@TheAndyroid]

Nope, it was an edit. The jack leads move at the same time the LED comes on.

[@johnerickson5118]

Would this pedal be able to be wired to take the switch out of the line? Making ot always on?

[@5000rgb]

Yes. You figure out which wires the switch connects when on and then connect those wires, bypassing the little circuit board. The three terminals in the center will be connected to the three terminals on either side depending on if the pedal is on or off.

[@utubehound69]

You could use like some hard foam like in pickup boxes…to hold that switch up w/some foam in the bottom cover.

[@allenwoody5909]

Looks like you were using the new solder gun, how'd it work? Creative solution.

[@AdamRainStopper]

While you're transplanting that contact piece, you should always either trace it by hand or stick it on a scanner or copier so you can later cut a replacement from a piece of scrap steel and not waste a perfectly good switch. Although you still have the other two, so either way you can use it later.

[@jamsguitar]

I have a old rocktron black cat moan pedal that I want to use but the push button switch on the side is poop, same switch? Suggestions on where to get one? The friendly people at rocktron said go buy a old one on ebay for parts... So helpful...

[@dannyd.8860]

$150 for that? LOL. Anyone can DIY a clean boost for a third of that - save for the fancy chassis - and build it without such a bad design. It's clearly not road worthy. Boutique pedal builders are out of their minds, yet people eat it up because their prices suggests "quality". But nice job making it stable.

[@TheGuitologist]

+Danny DeTora price is another issue. I won't argue that really. But I will say, to be fair, it does what it says. I have no complaints about it as a boost. It was clean, didn't add noise, etc. And after securing the switch, I felt better about it.

[@omarcusihuaman4261]

I think the same specially when taking about any tube screamer based pedal, any overpriced overdrive or brands like analogman xotic suhr. Some +200$ pedals are just "fake news"

[@SciPunk215]

Hot glue... is there anything it can't do ?? I would have considered some other material to fill the void beneath the switch. Maybe something more durable, like a strip of wood. Great video, as always!! Please keep them coming.

[@YGroadcapitain]

the industry nowadays are full of shit, they make purposely soon brokening things to keep selling new shit that brakes down so you have to buy new product and so on... i have 1975 vox wah pedal that i changed the switch in 1991, the switch came from OTIS elevator from 1961, the switch is ALCO brand made in west germany 1960, it still runs like brand new!! it have 2 screws for open it up for service! (yes the OTIS elevator was in scrap yard in perfect condition, probably just been replaced by digital elevator! future is just getting better??)

[@joeleade7622]

I have one of those pedals and it has a switch with a lip on it. I really liked the pedal but it just stopped powering up. No lights and it does not pass any signal through it. The switch seems fine.

[@flobeeonekinobee2353]

My laney vh 100 had those switches in the foot controller, it would change channel on its own when I was six feet away

[@spentron1]

Looks to me the weight of the encapsulated circuit board damaged the switch. The switch itself limits the pressure but once the tabs are bent.... Solutions would be remounting the board or frankly a couple tie-wraps around the whole mess would be better than the hot glue. RE: the sound, the camera ALC cancels out changes in volume, although it may get more compressed with the boost and it lags a tiny bit. RE: fingernails, as a tech I always end up needing my claws the next day after I cut them.

[@BuggsK100RS]

Oh the amazing disappearing reappearing video!!!!

[@TheGuitologist]

You've been warned.

[@Alex-jq5ft]

Honestly I really like the idea of taking the back off the switch and replacing everything but the blue housing. Only thing is, you wouldn't have had the issue of the switch collapsing if you hadn't weakened the four legs by bending them out and then back in again.

[@senorfrio]

4:07 - Where did that googly eye come from?

[@PrincePloppy]

A lot of people saying these switches aren't designed badly... I agree and disagree. From a throw away point of view i agree... They are good... But It sucks that they are not serviceable.

[@Mojoman57]

Nice. The best part of this pedal is the glowing logo.

[@poot111111]

I am surprised to see you using a soldering gun instead of a station

[@TheGuitologist]

+poot111111 gotta try out the new gun I was sent by a channel watcher. Also, ive already named it...Willis. In the future, please refer to it by its proper name, Willis.

[@sleepymarauder4178]

Can we also call it Will, Willie or anything alike. When you fix it with Willis, it should be called Will's Grace.

[@AMSOfficial79]

I use a gun... never have had a station. Have soldered countless connections.

[@notconsenting6633]

am i the only one that didn't hear any difference at all?

[@AlexWelti]

I think his video camera has an audio leveling circuit that was compressing the boost. This pedal actually has a massive amount of clean boost, but you can't hear it in the video...

[@TheGuitologist]

Correct. Camera compression canceled the boost. Sorry about that.

[@wjombat]

I think it is named after a Bible verse Mark 4:23 If anyone has ears to hear, let them hear.”. Would make sense with the brand being called Creation Audio Labs

[@mal2ksc]

I don't think the creators have anything to gripe about, considering you not only identified the problem but also provided a simple solution. I wouldn't be terribly surprised if they start putting support spacers in the case, though rubber feet would probably be cheaper (in terms of labor) than hot snot. Also it might be easier to put the support on the back of the switch PCB rather than on the case side, so that every pedal they make can continue to use the same case, straight off the shelf. That would just be a matter of convenience for them, rather than anything wrong with your modification.

[@skycarl]

Let's see how hard we can step on this pedal,,,lol,,,, good vid Brad, Thanks as always pal.

[@TheGuitologist]

Seems that's exactly what someone did.

[@Aarlog]

I don't think the switch was being stepped on. I think whenever they wanted to turn it on the previous owner just chucked it at a wall.

[@mal2ksc]

There's a reason they're called "stomp boxes".

[@bpabustan]

Hi. I used to have a Marshall Shredmaster distortion pedal that has a similar kind of switch as the Mk 4:23. I think the old switch on your pedal used to have a lip but that lip but was removed by excessive stomping as what happened to my Shredmaster.

[@stevehogan8829]

@NOT CONSENTING No, but with some practice I could imagine I heard some boost. Thanks Brad... Appreciate the vid.

[@AlexWelti]

You want the cap piece to limit the travel and transfer the stomping force to the chassis - think about a 300 pound biker dude stomping on the switch, if the chassis didn't absorb the force, no amount of hot glue, compressed foam or even a rigidly mounted PCB is going to hold up to that for long. And you WANT the PCB to float - your video proves why - sacrifice the switch, which is inexpensive and easy to replace - if the PCB had been rigidly mounted to support the switch, the solder joints and the PCB would have been destroyed instead... FWIW, ALL the switches DO have the extra lip to limit the travel and transfer the stomping force to the 16 gauge steel chassis. Apparently this particular switch itself was defective and lost its extra cap piece somewhere along the way. We've been through about 5,000 switches in the last 10 years, and I've only seen one other without the cap piece and falling apart like that. The only reason you saw the blue piece moving around is because you took it apart and didn't replace the entire switch. To be fair and impartial, you should edit the description of the video - because it is NOT a design flaw... it was one defective switch out of thousands, and the design saved the PCB from being destroyed. Also - FYI - those pedals come with a Lifetime Warranty against manufacturing defects - so next time one fails, just send it in. Cheers!

[@AlexWelti]

Although - it wouldn't hurt to add the compressed foam and a drop of epoxy on the four tabs to make a good design a little better... we can start doing that...

[@danadrian2752]

Alex Welti I was wondering why he didn’t use foam as well, much cleaner imo and probably works better with absorbing force

[@baronvonchickenpants6564]

You can buy the PCB that goes on the back of those switches off eBay

[@tubical71]

Look at this....! Simply look at this....This is the probably the world´s best example of why not to buy anything "boutique". The outer finish is ok, they even put the lettering though the faceplate put a backlight in and also chromed it. Nothing wrong with that, it looks fancy. But as soon as you open it up....where´s the fancieness?? It´s never been there....the cheapest crap inside. Look at the pot, the jacks...that switch. The money the ask for this thing goes directly into the maker´s pocket. This thing would cost you about 40bucks, if you put in a regular box, only 10bucks. Usually they have a multiplier on top of this of about 4 to 5 times the money they spent making it. So calculate yourself, if this is right or not. Ok let´s talk about that switch again: A good design would have been to design a PCB that would hold that switch and that epoxied board as well. And this PCB needs to be screwed down on the lower case-piece, for maximum ruggedness. Pedals always go through a hard live, they fall down they drop down, they sometimes being slammed down and this is what the designer needs to take into concideration when building this kinda stuff. That switch itself, that crapiest crap on planet earth, i can say. At least i would go for a Bourns, APEM, or a Neutrik type...these are the GoTos when you want a reliable type. As you said, Brad all the force is sent into the switch´s housing. A neutrik type has a "full metal jacket" which could easily take all that force, and also some of the better types screwed down using two screws along with a center nut in order to maintain functionality after drops and falls even when it hits the ground on its lever when mounted in the housing. That´s what i would call "Boutique" - made to outlast everything - , not as in: made to fill the designer´s pockets fast and easy... Thanx, Brad for this one :)

[@GoodnightWounds]

You might want to buy chrome plated screws the next time you’re doing a screw replacement because those screws are fugly on a chrome chasis! Buy a soldering station ffs... lol

[@straypacket]

I see you have a "Chuck Levin's Washington Music Center" cable - have you been there? That's my old stomping grounds. Bought my first drum kit there :)

[@stevehogan8829]

Additional Comment Here.... Those switch boxes need a better way of keeping the switch box together. Crappy switch.

[@WillyMcCoy50]

You still have a tube tester?

[@TheGuitologist]

+K McCoy yes, ancient as it is.

[@utubehound69]

I remember tube testers in Otasco's & hardware store as a kid. My uncle use them a few times. I have a stack of books he got when he went to school for electronic's it's like from 1955 - maybe early 60's it's got tube stuff & transistor stuff as well.

[@Arni142]

Those switches are not designed to be repaired. What was the point to repair it? To keep bottom part original and the whole switch not reliable anymore?

[@soundknight]

I have the Holy Fire which is really good sounding. Buddy of mine bought one second hand and it was dodggie from first plugin.

[@CorContreras]

I can't hear a change from bypass to engaged pedal. Am I too late to the conversation?

[@kenhancock8931]

SO 17:14 IS IT HAUNTED? OR JUST FUCKIN WITH US BRAD? LOL caps on 2 lazy 2 retype lol cheers

[@TheGuitologist]

haha...it was an edit. OR WAS IT!?????? DUM DUM DAAAAAAAAA

[@pipecfh]

Poor design? poor repair. The case of the switch is destroyed. Replacing the complete switch was the correct repair. I like your vids dude but this one is a fail.

[@derekscanlan4641]

fail comment. his repair was correct

[@AlanW]

Nice Chuck Levin's cable! I bought a guitar from them in the 90s!

[@crosswalklarry]

Alan W Got you beat. Still have my Veneman's cables. 😉

[@lroy730]

Another great one. I've ben building pedals since the 90's, and when you need a 3PDT Stomp Switch thats the only design I have found . My remedy was to put CA Glue on switch. The only failing when a hulk like idiot jumped on one. But that bent the Bud Box , when your bending that Die Cast metal you don't need a pedal you need to tank.

[@Crisdapari]

To me was funny in some weird way because it was like seeing a horror movie where two contact murderers where hiding and everybody but the main character see them. And then when asked for a "holding solution" all the crowd could yell HOT GLUE! as superpower. In the end good played and well fixed. Do you know something to reduce click sound on foot switches and switches in general like graphite or something better than that?

[@notconsenting6633]

I LOVE this channel!

[@ooinvsaoo]

i didnt hear a differance i think its still broken..

[@TheGuitologist]

+blank :)

[@AlexWelti]

I think the video camera has an audio leveling circuit that is compressing what you hear, the pedal actually has a massive amount of clean boost.

[@LPCustom3]

Those switches were a bad copy of the original Fulltone 3PDT.

[@randallabracadabra]

Yup. DeMont Japan (similar to ALCOSWITCH) made the best ones though.

[@budude2]

Nice intro!

[@KesslerMickschGeorgeII]

Maybe a couple pieces of 3M sticky foam.

[@EdDanaGuitar]

Very informative video! Is that the Weller gun you got sent in the viewer mail video?

[@TheGuitologist]

+Ed Dana yes, and his name is Willis. Willis the Love Gun.

[@notyetskeletal4809]

I knew you were going to be one of those guys that likes tapping things while talking about them. 8:17.

[@chriscunningham6362]

All finished, I don't think the tone difference is worth what it's going to cost him for that fix. He'd been better off buying a Behringer Tone Boos Pedal with the same performance.

[@rangerdoc1029]

I've found so many bad switches in new pedals. Had one with two plates stacked in one of the poles... Brand new Chinesium.

[@wrayven]

Mark 4:23 If anyone has ears to hear, let them hear Hard to trust a pedal that is named after a Biblical verse, but I guess one will have to pray in hopes of it working through the whole gig.. What an absolutely stupid pedal design. Mounting the switch with the circuit zip tied to it is just asking for problems as the switch is essentially bearing all of load. As it's a moving part, a switch really shouldn't be load bearing. When a switch is surface mounted to a circuit board, usually the weight is distributed to the pot or pots and perhaps the input & output jacks. In their concept the switch is holding too much weight(in fact all of it). When properly implemented those switches are excellent and rarely bust from normal usage. I would venture to guess that the company spends more money on the box than it does actually making the pedal's circuit. Looking at their factory price, I can think of few different boost pedals that are better conceived for a cheaper price.

[@johnbellas490]

Boy for a pedal, that switch they used is NOT heavy enough for a FOOT switch !! No wonder it eventually broke apart !

[@mischef18]

My guess is even the manufacturer of the boost MK 4.23 never had any idea the switch would do that after time, maybe this is why the new switch has the stopper on the end now from feedback from others using this switch. Just a thought.

[@TheGuitologist]

+Ken Allen I agree. The design fault lies mainly in the switch. But designers are using them in this way, unsupported. The lipped ones are def better, but will still wiggle the back free over time.

[@mischef18]

Yes that never accrued to me now that you mention it.

[@mischef18]

Maybe it needs a trainer bra, lol.

[@spikester]

Why doesn't the bottom of the pedal have some sort of foam to support the bottom of that switch? Otherwise why ziptie excess weight (of the circuit) to it? I could see just stamping the pedal could cause that to fail.

[@fireantsarestrange]

100 dollars for that thing... and all it does is boost the signal ... dumb.

[@crosswalklarry]

Jay Sims Better off getting a Sparkle Drive. Does both.

[@neglectfulsausage7689]

lmao "why does this whole switch move when I press down when I don have the retaining nut screwed down tight

[@thomasheys902]

I Facepalmed when you broke open the perfectly good switch. This seems a bit bodgy.. I don't think that putting pressure on this part of the switch is a better way to go. In fact I think it'll wear it sooner than if you just put the new one as it was. Those little contacts don't seem able to sustain the upward pressure they are going to take.. Still some good entertainment. Thank you.

[@FabAndroid]

Thomas Heys Same, once you've bent out the clips that hold the switch in place you can never get them as secure as they were from the factory. The design flaw in the first switch was not having the lip to prevent too much travel, but the second design is usually rated for around 300k cycles. I've personally never seen one go bad, but I have seen a few pots and switches that I've had to repair by opening up that never went back quite as snug. Next time just replace the whole switch.

[@thomasheys902]

franisarobot ,I will only try to repair a switch if it's really hard to find replacement or in case of an emergency. Otherwise don't bother, change and throw the bad one where it belongs!

[@anthonyf4439]

They must've threatened to sue.

[@richardturk7162]

I'll know to stay away from these pedals.

[@TheGuitologist]

+richard Turk to be fair, it does what it says, but modify it to support the pcb.

[@mal2ksc]

I wouldn't. I'd just add the necessary support, or at least check to see if it is necessary, on any pedal from this manufacturer. I can see two possibilities: (1) this problem is isolated to this particular pedal, because it uses a different type of switch from anything else they make (in which case this mod would be unnecessary on other pedals), or (2) they make the same mistake across other similarly constructed pedals, in which case it needs to be fixed on all of them. 3PDT is a bit unusual, but a DPDT switch would have the same problem, maybe to a slightly lesser degree just because it's more compact and can therefore be built a bit stronger.

[@mrbigg7255]

Excellent

[@jonathanbrazee3846]

Those switches suck. I've had endless problems with them in the older wampler pedals I have. They have since updated their switches. Good thing.

[@chriscunningham6362]

I think that qualifies as a piece of shit pedal. Not Chinese POS, just reckless design and assembly POS. I think I would replace the box unless it's some sort of Holy Grail Boost Pedal, which I doubt. Boutique (read "Overpriced") pedals are all over the place.

[@MrAletube]

Correct way was de soldering the board and replace it.

[@crosswalklarry]

MrAletube Considering most customers are cheap, he did it the most economical way.

[@felippecezar9117]

I have a Marshall Shred Master from back in the day that was designed in more or less the same stupid fashion.

[@djpimpstick]

I have this pedal. Basically its a clean boost. But I use it at the end of my pedal board signal chain with the level set pretty low. It has some sort of magic sonic expander inside that opens the tone up in a very nice, very subtle way. It seems to put some of the analog mojo back into your tone that is lost via digital manipulation. You can't really tell what it's doing, but you notice when it's not there.I do love this pedal. I have taken it off my board a couple of times... always goes back on. I picked one up after watching the rig rundown of Brent Mason. You can find that video on youTube and skip to 31m46s kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIK6aayEhZypeNUm46s My pedal (SN #25XX) has the button cap on the switch. and the overall interior design is different. I posted some pics on your Guitologist Google+ post.

[@TheGuitologist]

You should definitely open it up and put epoxy on the sides of the switch and squirt some hot glue in the case bottom to help support the switch. Yours will eventually fail too.

[@djpimpstick]

Posted photos on your Google+

[@mal2ksc]

+The Guitologist The switch won't fail if he never shuts it off, and it sounds like this is his use case.

[@djpimpstick]

New versions of the switch have been redesigned. The inside of mine is completely different. And, yes, I never turn it off.

[@the-np4mr]

God I miss google+

[@georgekrabs6948]

Pretty much whatt it's supposed to do ABSOLUTELY JACK

[@bengalvin9932]

HEY GUITOLOGIST! this pedal looks a lot like one of those really cheap pedals that are made in china and sold on e bay.

[@mc6712]

Made in USA and not cheap.

[@eugenezandberg8057]

just replace the switch....gee. Anyone can desolder and solder 2 of them in that timeframe....

[@TheGuitologist]

+Patrick Vanhecke do they also entertain 8-10k people in the process?

[@eugenezandberg8057]

I'm entertained when i see people do things the correct way. But hey it's your channel... If the only option was to restore the switch i would give it 10 thumbs up.

[@rocklamarre9717]

Hot glue is not a shim

[@crosswalklarry]

Chuck's!

[@MrBrymstond]

+The Guitologist Time to fetch the Strippers...

[@MrBrymstond]

Wouldn't one of those rubbers work to hold that up?

[@tonydorris1998]

I want it!!!

[@johnnoland4249]

Have You SOLD OUT???? THERE'S A GUITAR CENTER AD ON YOUR CHANNEL!!!!!