These 5 Things Could Ruin Your Art.

Let's talk about ways that we can make our artwork last!! Here are 5 things you may want to stop doing if you want your artwork to be archival!
Resources:
A great explanation of lightfastness and its importance: www.artsupplies.co.uk/blog/li...
file:///C:/Users/Shana/Downloads/ASTM-and-Lightfastness(1).pdf
More about the downfalls of using hairspray:
www.renekunertart.com/2017/10...
studiowildlife.com/can-you-us...
More about tape: www.protapes.com/blog/dont-us...
Framing Tips:
www.jacksonsart.com/blog/2020...
custommadeart.wordpress.com/t...
Products mentioned (affiliate:)
Workable Fixative: amzn.to/3waHHh5
Spectrafix: amzn.to/3H9TnWH
Acid testing pen amzn.to/3w8hQ9B
Acid-free artist tape (white is acid free) amzn.to/3knbYXc
This video is not sponsored by any of the companies mentioned.
Please note: Product links used in description are often affiliate links, this means I earn a small profit when someone uses my link to purchase a product. However, there is no additional charge to the person who is purchasing the product.
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Music:
Piano sound in the beginning is my own.
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[@MrsBarnabas]

How I _wish_ , *wish* , *WISH* more ArtTubers would watch this video, and having watched it, would spread the word!!!! It is incredibly frustrating to watch recommendations that I know aren't archival, and knowing that even if I comment, it won't be seen enough. I've always been 'lucky' with the DIY masking tape, because I won't buy the cheapy stuff, and the other, well-known brand tapes are made so that the tape won't leave marks on the wall / wall covering after use, but - and it's a very big ... *BUT* ... , as with decorating, I never leave tape on for any length of time, and I make sure that my students understand that, too - again, with RealLife examples to back me up! Yup - it was great to see your RealLife examples! It drives the comment home really hard, especially because it's something we've almost certainly all done or been tempted to do. The hardest to counteract is when folk say, "Well, I'm not selling it. It's just for fun, and just for me." and that's when the RealLife examples matter, because we all have things we've created that we don't want to find spoiled in as little as a few weeks or months in some cases. Thank you! :)

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

You're welcome! I understand your frustration, which is why I made this video. I have seen a ton of videos, from bigger KZbinrs than I am, giving out art hacks, tips, and advice that could actually damage art in the long run. So, this video had been a long time coming for me. Hopefully, it helps the people who see it to make more informed decisions while creating art! As always, thank you for watching!

[@SmillyDonut]

I love that you mentioned Rubbing Alcohol. It evaporates quickly and completely. It's not my first choice, but it is safe to use if one can't afford art specific supplies.

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

Thank you! It's definitely an option when in a pinch!

[@starr-starr]

Good summary. I like that you show your actual art from years ago and what the effects could be.

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

Thank you! I think it's good to have visuals. I'm it helps others so they don't have to go through what I have. Thanks for watching!

[@fellopiantube7607]

thank you for this video. it's great to have all those items concerning archivability gathered and discussed in one place

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

You're welcome! Thank you for watching!!

[@belbolser9671]

Commission pieces I definitely care about archival qualities. Some pieces I do just for the heck of it I don’t always care lol. But great tips for anyone who hasn’t learned all the ropes yet.

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

Yeah, if I'm working in a sketchbook or doing a piece, I don't plan to sell, then I'm more lenient. I like to play around and experiment a lot and in those instances I'm not as worried about it.

[@SmillyDonut]

I really wish more big youtube channels considered these things. Particularly when they are recommending supplies to their followers. It doesn't take much to say "these don't gave lightfastness ratings, buy I'm not selling my art so it doesn't bother me." And the use of specific materials as well. Some materials simply will not last.

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

I know what you mean. I'm surprised more people don't mention it. I think many just don't think about it. I have also seen people sell originals made with supplies that won't last. Some people haven't researched very far into it. And some just use materials they like and don't care about how long they will last.

[@DieterPrivate]

The thing is though, even light-fast mediums will fade over time, not only due to light, but also due to heat and just time. That said, using light-fast materials should ensure minimal fading during a single lifetime, but not much longer. The real future proof method is making sure to digitise your work, so a print can be made anytime.

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

Yes, it's always good to have a digital copy of your work, I agree! I scan all my work and offer it as prints. But also, because I sell my originals, I like to still have copies of my work for my own record. You never know what could happen down the line, so it's good to have a digital record of your work. As long as you have a good backup system, though, because one system crash and you could lose years of work 😕. But in the case where you do sell an original work, (because many collectors see originals as an investment and don't want prints) it's good to put your best foot forward when you can and have something that will last as long as possible. Imagine buying an artwork for hundreds of dollars (maybe even more) and having it fade within 3 months on your wall. That would suck! Decades is better than just a few months, which is why I try to use the best materials I can on work I plan to sell the original of. So, basically, I believe in doing both!

[@robyounce644]

Thanks for posting, love the way you shared. Favorite part were the examples!

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

You are very welcome Rob! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[@SmillyDonut]

I did not know that you needed to have watercolour, gouache, and coloured pencil paintings matted or with spacers. I thought that was an oil pastel and soft pastel specific tip. I learned something today. Good thing I like how matting looks on my artwork.

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

Anything on paper, it's best to have it separated from the glass so it doesn't stick with moisture. And I don't remember if I mentioned it in the video, but chalky things like pastel and charcoal should be behind real glass (with matting) and not plexiglass because plexiglass will have static cling.

[@SmillyDonut]

@@CautionArtistatPlay Now I know. I will ask about the glass being used when I frame any pastel pieces in the future.

[@renmuffett]

Yes! I've adhered to all those rules with my watercolor over the years. To the point of deep study about pigments used and their quirks and lightfast properties. I used to do commissions and sell. But even though I'm retired from that, I still want my work archival for my gifts to family and friends. PS, Safe archival solvent alternatives. linseed oil, walnut oil, used for oil paint, solvents like Spike lavender and even water mixable oil painting mediums do pretty well for color pencils. Try it if you want to get away from toxic OMS. Mineral oils do not yellow but they do not dry fast either and tend to attract atmospheric contaminants. Fast drying oils like linseed and walnut do not yellow and is a fast drying oil. That's why its been used for oil art for 1000 plus years. Blessings!

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

Thank you for the tips, Renee! I haven't researched individual pigments yet, but that is something that has been on my mind. Not just for the archival aspects but also just out of interest! I have always been interested in conserving my work, which is why I started putting my drawings in scrapbooks as a kid. Unfortunately, because I was so young, I had no idea about archival materials, lol. I think I will be the same way when I am retired. I'm not as concerned about experimental work in my sketchbooks, but anything that's meant to be hung on a wall, I want to last.

[@claritzairosario68]

Shana, thank you for this important video! it's necessary, especially for beginners, like me! I had to laugh when you said about the blenders, oh my! creams, oil ect... and hair fixatives! 😂 because it's true, there are still people who approve this! and I almost died when you said about the tapes!, which are not acid free! 😱😳 ooh! almost cry! I have to buy these tapes immediately! And another hack that is not archival, are the white markers, on top of the colored pencils... I have learned that here, on KZbin... And greetings💞

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

Yes!! I actually popped up some text in this video about not using gel pens, etc, on top of colored pencils because so many people do it, and I forgot to mention it during filming! You are right, water-based and acrylic markers are another one! There were so many talking points that it was hard to keep track. People do all sorts of whacky things! Lol Thank you for watching!! I'm glad you enjoyed it! 😊

[@claritzairosario68]

@@CautionArtistatPlay yeah! I'm sorry, I didn't see this pop up info! Ohh, very, very true Shana, out there, are so many disinformation! Lol 😅... Happy Saturday!

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

Lol happy Saturday to you too! 🥰

[@cheryl6716]

Thank you for all of the valuable information Shana. For white highlights I recently discovered using Holbein Primary White gouache. It's good for covering up objects that I don't want in a coloring book picture, or for highlights using a 3/0 Spotter watercolor brush. The Holbein Soft White colored pencils are the best pencils IMO for soft, subtle highlights. My 2nd choice would be the Derwent Chinese White Drawing pencil. I don't use my OMS, there's too many warnings that go with that stuff.

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

I love the Holbein gouache and their soft white pencil! However, I never use gouache over colored pencil, because gouache is a water-based medium and could chip off over time. If I want a really good highlight that I can't get with the Holbein Soft white or the Derwent Drawing Chinese White, I use the Brush and Pencil Touch Up Texture and Titanium White Powder mixed together. They are specifically made for colored pencil and should adhere better than a regular water-based medium and be archival over time. I don't blame you for not wanting to use OMS, if you are a fan of Holbein products, then you should definitely use their Meltz colored pencil blender. It's fantastic!

[@cheryl6716]

@@CautionArtistatPlay Thanks for the awesome advice Shana! I will definitely have to try out the Brush and Pencil Touch up Texture and Titanium White Powder. I have the Holbein Meltz and l do like it.

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

No problem Cheryl! Anytime!

[@queenria7]

@@CautionArtistatPlay I have often heard about this "Brush and Pencil Touch Up Texture and Titanium White Powder", but I can't seem to get it here in Germany... do we know of any good alternative of putting white highlights on top of colored pencil? Could white oil paint be an option?

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

I wouldn't dare to use oil paint unless the paper you use is made for or primed to be used with oil paints. The oils could sink into the paper and damage it over time. It's best to stick with things that are made specifically to be used with colored pencils if you want the work to be archival. There is another company that makes a white mixture made for colored pencils, I think they sell on Etsy, but I don't remember their name, because I haven't tried the product. It may come up if you google it. Not sure if it would be available where you are.

[@elizabethvarnadoe420]

Intense is a fairly recent art material that is not lightfast. Anyway that is my understanding.

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

Inktense do have lightfast ratings on them, and overall, the ratings are fairly good. The issue is that Derwent hasn't tested them after they have been washed out with water. Typically, if a pigment is highly lightfast, it will remain pretty lightfast after water is added. However, if the pigment isn't as lightfast to begin with, it will fade faster after water has been added. But derwent does provide color charts with lightfast ratings on their site for both the Inktense pencils and blocks.

[@elizabethvarnadoe420]

@@CautionArtistatPlay thanks for that information.

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

You're very welcome!! 😊

[@sarahwbs]

What does "museum conditions" mean?

[@CautionArtistatPlay]

Mainly proper lighting, away from dust, with controlled temperatures and moisture levels. Basically, a safe, dry environment without too much UV exposure. Museums monitor all of these things to protect the longevity of the art that they have in their care.

[@martiadams1534]

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