These CLIMBING FAILS are UNAVOIDABLE

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BetaClimbers

BetaClimbers

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 231
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
In regards to fail #2 I will leave a fuller analysis down here. (Maybe he won’t notice me) A belayer needs to be an ever watchful protector over your life. So they should always be anticipating a fall. This belayer was more concerned about the climber making his clip and getting a send. He feeds out a bunch of slack then is not ready for the fall. Almost like he wasn’t expecting it. When the climber begins to fall the belayers reaction is to grab the leading end of the device, perhaps to hopefully pull in slack with the one hand and pull it through quick with the other. Here we can see why repetitive training and experience is essential because he loses the break line then grabs the lead end with both hands as a last ditch effort. This is a huge no no and will do absolutely nothing to protect the fall especially if he was using an ATC and not a self breaking device like a grigri.
@Dougal866
@Dougal866 3 жыл бұрын
I Agree with most of your comment except the "this will do absolutely nothing to protect the fall". If you panic from the inevitable rope burn and let go entirely then this is correct but if commit to holding you will probably be able to stop most falls with the drag in most systems, assuming you are not belaying a mammoth (at the very least slow a ground fall). Obviously a terrible strategy but if for whatever reason the belayer has lost the break line planting the idea that there is no point of keeping a hold of the live end and they should only focus on looking around their feet for the break side is some dangerous miss information. Holding something is a massive upgrade to nothing when time is short
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
@@Dougal866 in my experience once that rope stars moving and the climber starts falling and increasing his speed holding the rope is like trying to stop a circular saw blade. Your only hope is to let go and grab the break line again. If the climber is falling far enough you may have enough time to do this. It does also depend on the device used like you said some have more friction. But your best bet is to regain control of the break line.
@Dougal866
@Dougal866 3 жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers Hmm realising I am probably biased because I have spent a lot of time with partners who are lighter than me. I would still suggest to hang on for dear life with the live hand whilst fumbling for the break with the other because it might buy you time and there is often rope drag through draws and over bumps that might get you out of dodge. also frankly, one deserves rope burn by this point. But Agreed, two hands on the live end is a terrible plan xD Although I think what he did here, trying to reading between the pixels, was actually keep hold of the dead end but bring it up next to his other hand in an attempt to pull in slack... which is a sin in and of its self Anyway, Love your channel and thanks for the Vids! helping get that very much needed climbing fix in dark days. new subscriber here. I didn't actually realise it was your comment :P Edit: He definitely does what you said and grabs the live end with both hands! incredible that wasn't a butt on ground
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
@@Dougal866 yeah I see what you mean there lol if I hit the ground and the belayer wasn’t burned I would think I was being belayed by a stone cold killer lol 😂 Thanks welcome to the underground. 🤙🏻
@Cacovangor
@Cacovangor 3 жыл бұрын
Will say with the grigri in fail two he is preloading the device and the rope is not yet through the device thus isn’t excess slack yet, and he can transition to drawing in more slack with his guide hand rapidly... but the bigger issue is he seems to not even react to the fall. Not attending to the climber is the worst part of that.
@cornelisgraper8678
@cornelisgraper8678 3 жыл бұрын
"compressed some discs or whatever" very doctor, much medical science.
@gwizzlefuhshizzle
@gwizzlefuhshizzle 3 жыл бұрын
"Doctor, could you explain my medical diagnosis in detail?" "LOL bro you are fuckin' REKT"
@Existinginthespace
@Existinginthespace 3 жыл бұрын
Like Dr.Lexus from Idiocracy kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJWznoGDZa55bbs
@danjajeff1404
@danjajeff1404 3 жыл бұрын
I'm a truck driver, I don't know why I like these videos. The last thing I climbed was out of bed.
@Phoenixhunter157
@Phoenixhunter157 3 жыл бұрын
But were you wearing a helmet 😂
@danjajeff1404
@danjajeff1404 3 жыл бұрын
@@Phoenixhunter157 well now totally depends on what City I stop in. Those ladies of the night are sketchy, so i always wear a helmet.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤷‍♂️🍺
@Phoenixhunter157
@Phoenixhunter157 3 жыл бұрын
@@danjajeff1404 😂😂😂😂😂👍 truth!
@danjajeff1404
@danjajeff1404 3 жыл бұрын
@@Phoenixhunter157 I'm glad you have a sense of humor lol
@Phoenixhunter157
@Phoenixhunter157 3 жыл бұрын
@@danjajeff1404 😂i definitely do, my friend.
@beezow7113
@beezow7113 3 жыл бұрын
I’m glad to see @ 4:00 they’re using a giant pair of shoes as a crash pad
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
Lmao not everyone will get this joke
@derekatwood6236
@derekatwood6236 3 жыл бұрын
🤣😂
@ragreenburg
@ragreenburg 3 жыл бұрын
I feel like if you can peel large rocks off with your hand then it's kinda your responsibility to do so because that could be the difference between life and death for anyone else who climbs after you.
@ivanvishniakou3385
@ivanvishniakou3385 3 жыл бұрын
Man I love your content, your humour and everything about this channel. Thank you for what you are doing!
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
🤙🏻
@LinkWithGlasses
@LinkWithGlasses 3 жыл бұрын
I’m grateful you were able to turn yourself around josh.... I’ve lost many dear humans to the dreaded hokey pokey 😭😅 that comment killed me brother, keep it up!
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
🤣🤣
@joleylight300
@joleylight300 3 жыл бұрын
Ahaha! A lot of first ascents today. Perfect. Speaking of merch I got the solo shirt in and it’s awesome! Appreciate it man!
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
Right on 🤙🏻
@jrodericklane
@jrodericklane 3 жыл бұрын
Your friends belayer let go of the brake rope multiple times.
@stratocactus
@stratocactus 3 жыл бұрын
Yup at 4:50
@justinmeyerr
@justinmeyerr 3 жыл бұрын
He wasn't touching the brake end the entire clip. Hand on grigri, doing nothing. Bad bad bad belaying.
@ПетрСтраумал
@ПетрСтраумал 3 жыл бұрын
Yes, he is really horrible. If the friend will go on with this belayer, it can end badly someday.
@MythAvatar
@MythAvatar 3 жыл бұрын
Yeah like holy shit i'd never climb with him after that
@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog
@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 3 жыл бұрын
I would have punched him in the face...no excuse for decking that high up. This is awful belay technique, as your one job is to keep the climber from hitting the ground. And the fact that he smiled about it makes it even worse because he has no idea how wrong he was.
@simonrobbins815
@simonrobbins815 3 жыл бұрын
Really educational. So many avoidable errors. First guy should have downclimbed as soon as he started getting into trouble (a basic skill that trad climbers usually learn early). He also did himself no favours climbing with bent arms and would probably benefit from getting some falling practice once he's fit again. Get Well soon! Gosh, the second belayer should go straight back to basic instruction, shockingly poor belaying, my advice for your friend is that he finds someone else to belay him 😜
@CastleVintners
@CastleVintners 3 жыл бұрын
you could be a little harder on belayer for fail #2, he reached and grabbed the rope above the belay device with both hands
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
Good eye 🤙🏻Check the pinned comment
@SebastianTrii
@SebastianTrii Жыл бұрын
Yeah who needs enemies with friends like that...
@keithagnew8062
@keithagnew8062 3 жыл бұрын
You missed this also - huge fail - saw foot slip did nothing - but then the belayer let go of the rope, both hands, at 4:48. Instead of cranking the right hand outward to maybe catch a few feet of rope, he just let go of it.
@weggimbuoe
@weggimbuoe 3 жыл бұрын
I had a similar fall (guy #3) this summer. I slipped as I went to the last hold on the rute and went top heavy. Looking back at it I feel lucky I didn't smash my head into an omelette that day. I've always though that as long as I dont get my legs caught, I would be safe. So now I started to use helmet no matter what.
@Briandotcom0
@Briandotcom0 3 жыл бұрын
2nd fail: the belayer lets go of the brake end of the rope. I've only ever seen one belayer worse, but that was a guy learning with his climber on an autobelay.
@justinmeyerr
@justinmeyerr 3 жыл бұрын
If you look closely he only ever has his hand holding the gri-gri, not the rope. Insane. And the fact he gave 3-4 feet more slack when climber was at the clip with the rope 😶😶
@tkx842
@tkx842 3 жыл бұрын
@@justinmeyerr he was holding the grigri and the rope when giving out slack but still i wouldnt want to have him as my belayer, im always extra careful when it comes to belaying... imagine youre higher up and hes trying out a new belay device that wont brake for him
@justinmeyerr
@justinmeyerr 3 жыл бұрын
@@tkx842 I'm not defending him. Terrible belayer who has no idea what he's doing. Thank god for the grigri
@vazap8662
@vazap8662 3 жыл бұрын
Every time I see a new fails video my mind goes yayyyyy.. And no it’s not just feeding an unhealthy appetite for seeing people failling (fail, fall, see what I did there!). I took a pretty bad fall on a ledge last summer and am still trying to figure out exactly what happened, in order to understand an injury. This is how I discovered the most famous underground climbing channel ;) and I do learn a lot from other people’s mistakes.. I must say though I couldn’t help a burst of laughter at the capitol fail!
@thebunnisher109
@thebunnisher109 3 жыл бұрын
Never realized I lived a couple blocks from El Capitol!!
@Dad_Is_Bored
@Dad_Is_Bored 3 жыл бұрын
as for unexpected rock fall, Magnus Midtbø, had a close encounter with such a fall while climbing a 1 Kilometer wall in Norway. its in his blog number 59 at about 12minute 50 second mark. The rock fell away from him, thankfully, and all the way down the mountain to the Fjord.
@boxcanyonclimbingco7794
@boxcanyonclimbingco7794 2 жыл бұрын
"not everyone is perfect, i mean at one point i was addicted to the hokey pokey, but I turned my whole self around, that's what it's all about.
@gordonneverdies
@gordonneverdies 3 жыл бұрын
El Capital Lol... Super classic!!
@petroffma
@petroffma 3 жыл бұрын
@10:39: the FA was some brit in 1814. Took 206.5 years to repeat.
@hatfieldkaz
@hatfieldkaz 3 жыл бұрын
Out of his element! I like that way of putting it!
@Hendershot93
@Hendershot93 3 жыл бұрын
Keep up the good work homie! I look forward to your videos!!
@amiller0185
@amiller0185 3 жыл бұрын
Just a note i think you missed, if rocks are rolling down, be sure to yell "ROCK" so in case there is anyone below they know to shelter.
@XVIIsionsProductions
@XVIIsionsProductions 3 жыл бұрын
I’ve been waiting for what feels like forever to see another one of your climbing fails videos YAASSSSS it’s finally here 🤙🏻😎
@marmitchellful
@marmitchellful 3 жыл бұрын
love these vids bro
@cotylukins07
@cotylukins07 3 жыл бұрын
Another good one. Im glad you included the el capital first ascent. Lol
@ChrisShredGuitar
@ChrisShredGuitar 3 жыл бұрын
The belayer on the second video, I wonder what he was thinking about? I mean you should always check if the climber possibly hits the ground.. so I'd rather give him less rope and risk that he might fall a bit less smooth then touchung the ground. And I think he even released his hands that super dangerous. Anyway cool video!
@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog
@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 3 жыл бұрын
Some people when teaching put so much emphasis on not short roping the climber that what happens is people become obsessed with over feeding, which is an incredibly dangerous habit to have. When I’m teaching people, I make sure to emphasize that control of the brake hand far supersedes anything else, as you’d much rather a guy/girl take a small, slightly harder whipper into the wall than hit the ground. Another reason why initially learning with an atc is better for beginners, as it forces you to learn proper technique and you don’t have the security blanket of telling yourself that if all else fails the GriGri will catch the climber, as nothing can be further from the truth if you’ve gotten it into your mind that the most important thing is feed feed feed. This guy is very lucky his climber wasn’t hurt. Extremely dangerous belayer in my opinion.
@ChrisShredGuitar
@ChrisShredGuitar 3 жыл бұрын
@@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog yeah fully agree on that, when I started to climb we were still using the tuber mostly. The gri gri is a great tool but for more difficult climbing routes with big falls and stuff like that it is pretty hard to belay perfect, that why we still us the tuber. But yeah it sometimes crazy when you see how some people belay...
@federicoezequielmackin
@federicoezequielmackin 3 жыл бұрын
Man.... I can't believe you missed this one Josh.... Climbing fail at 2:41 Rock shoes and socks....
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
😂 legit came to this comment thinking I must have mist something.... I was looking at his knot
@federicoezequielmackin
@federicoezequielmackin 3 жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers hahahha! thought you would!!!
@MartyCoony
@MartyCoony 3 жыл бұрын
Also, no2 clip, he was too far from the ledge on those first clip, being closer to the wall on the first 3 clip helps reducing the amount of slack in the system, or he could just have used his body to give slack by moving forward if he's going to be so far back to belay.
@gimmepowder
@gimmepowder 3 жыл бұрын
Exactly. He could have just moved forward for the clip and moved back for the fall.
@2wheelhomie665
@2wheelhomie665 3 жыл бұрын
Love ur vids man really gettin me into climbing and teaching me the ropes 👀😂
@alexmorano3334
@alexmorano3334 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the informative and entertaining content! Keep it up!
@Skkeem
@Skkeem 3 жыл бұрын
“As the guy turned into an attack helicopter” LMAOOO
@kennyking6325
@kennyking6325 3 жыл бұрын
Friend, Haha El Capitál free solo, does that route have a walk off? The guy is in such a hurry, he could have just went up the walk off, then rappel down to analyze availability of holds. Thank you, Kenny
@1zingero
@1zingero 3 жыл бұрын
That first clip looks like Australian sandstone and bush. I been climbing a long time and noticed as the sport got much more popular alot of young noobs do a climbing coarse then get out and do it with not much experience. Back when I started there were no coarses you learnt by someone experienced slowly. Not to say we didn't make mistakes either but most of the errors I see from newer climbers is avoidable.
@rickedeckard2006
@rickedeckard2006 3 жыл бұрын
In Germany, Id love to be able to go and do some climbing fails!
@tehalexy
@tehalexy 3 жыл бұрын
NICHTS DA! LOCKDOWN UNDSO!
@UUsernameAvailable
@UUsernameAvailable 3 жыл бұрын
"I was once addicted to the hokey pokey but i turned it all around, that's what it's all about" .... brilliant.
@stirfryjedi
@stirfryjedi 3 жыл бұрын
god tier icebreaker material right there
@derekatwood6236
@derekatwood6236 3 жыл бұрын
I just want to congratulate you on your sobriety, I've lost too many friends and family over the years from the hokey pokey scourge... The first climber was way out of his element, breathing that hard he should have had a take and a rest at the last clip or as you said down climbed to the last bolt. Finding opportunities to rest on a route is key in climbing. The lower the rating the more dangerous the climb! That 2nd one was bad, really bad. The belayer has no idea what he is doing and is gonna get someone hurt. He has a death grip on the grigri the entire time (only disable the cam for a moment when paying out slack) and what is that huge loop of extra rope in his brake hand? Also he completely let go of the brake hand when the climber fell, if it was an atc he would have decked. To the climber in video 2, please go over and practice the correct way to belay with your friend so he can get rid of these dangerous habits. Great video Joshua, thanks!
@DerSuperJerome
@DerSuperJerome 3 жыл бұрын
„El CapitOl“ lmfao xDD
@isaacschwein2136
@isaacschwein2136 3 жыл бұрын
Absolutely love your videos man! My favorite youtube channel. I've been bouldering for a little over a year but really want to get into some rope climbing, but I've never done it. Any tips on the best way to get started/what mistakes not to make for a beginner?
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
Best thing you can do is make a friend that has been in the game for a long time with a ton of experience. They will have the gear and show you the ropes. You can often find climbers looking for partners on forums. I’m hopeful going to grow my discord server large enough so people can find weekends partners. 🤙🏻
@isaacschwein2136
@isaacschwein2136 3 жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers Great, thanks so much for the tip!
@MegaVagus
@MegaVagus 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you, man! Falling rocks and falling of the rock in this episode
@jaeimp
@jaeimp 3 жыл бұрын
Great educational material! Highly appreciated. However, the rope @5:42 does get snarled behind his right calf.
@aspzx
@aspzx 3 жыл бұрын
That second rock trundle was nuts.
@chhe5433
@chhe5433 3 жыл бұрын
Awww, mountain project took the climbs down......guess I am going to have to join parlor
@YoungPutter
@YoungPutter 3 жыл бұрын
At one point I was addicted to the hokey pokey but I turned myself around and that’s what’s it’s all about
@bonefishboards
@bonefishboards 3 жыл бұрын
There were a couple of big loose blocks high up on the Nose many years ago. I heard one of them, that was tied in with slings, was trundled during the 1997 Yosemite floods. The other, I head, got pulled off by a clumsy climber and it fell onto the Free Blast and broke someone's arm that is fairly famous (Hans Florine?).
@willmurrin9344
@willmurrin9344 3 жыл бұрын
5:29 lol This was funny you should do more of these.
@user-cl9zf9wj9i
@user-cl9zf9wj9i 3 жыл бұрын
I’ve caught a guy doing similar to the 3rd “attack helicopter.” Breakfast burrito? In KY, coming out of that ledge/heuco/cave/indent near the top: got himself into a terrible position and just barndoored right off, outside the bolt line and was taken for a serious whip around.
@johanleclerc8899
@johanleclerc8899 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah I did a version of the third fall at my gym recently, fell facing the ground and flipped hard when the rope caught me. I blew a stich of my harness (not an important one.)
@alexmilot355
@alexmilot355 3 жыл бұрын
Love the vids! Keep it up❤️
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
🤙🏻
@bker5376
@bker5376 3 жыл бұрын
RIP to the first guy hope he's okay.
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
I hear he is doing better
@bker5376
@bker5376 3 жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers think I might send you a video of me failing aswell. It would be very amusing.
@Meszone
@Meszone 3 жыл бұрын
Not Sure about the cause of the Hangboard Climbing fail - do you have other footage maybe more from the frot of the climber? :)
@saamtehrani921
@saamtehrani921 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the content and analysis Joshua
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
🤙🏻
@FallLineJP
@FallLineJP 3 жыл бұрын
4:50 - The biggest fail here is the choice of belayer. Notice both hands on the climber's strand at the end. Hooray for gri-gris, I suppose?
@nicod1886
@nicod1886 3 жыл бұрын
Hahaha wow 😯 what a line that was 😂. I may or may not be stealing that hokie pokie line bro. Another good video btw. Thanks and keep em coming!
@francescomonini8882
@francescomonini8882 3 жыл бұрын
#3 is the fall of nightmares, the rotational pull is crazy and would smash a skull like a tomato against the rock. So glad he was away from the wall
@DanielDez
@DanielDez 3 жыл бұрын
I'm sad it seems they took the routes off of mountainproject. Check out the names of the other climbs on El Capitol: - Ted Cruz's Crux - Treason Season - StOp ThE sTeAl Those could have been classic climbs.
@SuperPoonSlayer
@SuperPoonSlayer 3 жыл бұрын
These vids rock. Keep it up!
@vorlostzurab7653
@vorlostzurab7653 3 жыл бұрын
3:54 My climbing instructors would kill me for that hand position
@Greek_MotoDivision
@Greek_MotoDivision 3 жыл бұрын
0:59 ouch .... 😬
@jakev7005
@jakev7005 3 жыл бұрын
BetaClimbers is the climbing fail. Here is why. 1) Look at the green rope on the wall behind him, only a chuffer coils a rope into spires(thus kinking the rope), everybody butterfly coils, for a reason!! Look at Honnold coil a rope on top of elcap in the video with Caldwell, thats how its done, put it over your neck or hold it in your hand or sit down to use your legs. The butterfly coil bends the rope WITHOUT imparting a twist, this is critical to rope management! Twists turn a spiral coiling turn to kinks, which lead to short roping a leader, which break a leader's concentration and lead to falls, (twists create many other problems as well) .. short roping is also VERY rude belay behavior. 2). The first video breakdown (didn't need to listen past 1 minute mark). The issues start with: A) The climber wasn't using chalk, compromised grip even on RRG sandstone. B) Was wearing a GoPro while still struggling on very easy terrain, this is distracting and promotes excessive risk over prudent learning thru incremental steps, etc. C) The climber steps his left foot over the rope at the 47 second mark, now with the rope behind his leg and and scared, he is doomed to fall. He pull his leg from behind the rope while falling, well done climber. Yet, this could have worsened his body's orientation while falling and contributed to injury. This climber should have stayed in the gym until .10A (at the minimum) is only 25% of maximum ability. This allows a climber to learn properly because there is mental clarity (bandwidth) left to fix mistakes as they happen without panic setting in. If a climber can't stop at ANY point on a route AND HAVE A CONVERSATION about where the rope is relative to the legs, about how to clip, about how to optimize a clipping stance, OR about how hold selection and strategy impacts good climbing technique,.. than the route is TOO hard for the beginning to intermediate learning process. More 'climber' need to rethink wether climbing is the sport for them. Without grit, humility, and lack desire for outside acceptance its only a matter of time before the image in a mirror is the picture of an accident before it happens.
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
Old habits die hard my father taught me to coil the rope that way and I remember being a kid and having to coil it around my knees to make the coil. It wasn’t till my first ascent on el cap at 14 that Ammon Mcneely changed my mind and I stated using both ends and passing it back and forth over my shoulders.(I have a video on coiling rope of why I explain that it better.) How ever there is a secret to coiling a mountain coil that doesn’t add kinks or twists. Also a good flake out before the climb can solve those problems as well. But great analysis on the video, a good read 🤙🏻
@melkorWTF
@melkorWTF 3 жыл бұрын
1:44 what he did wrong was wearing socks with his climbing shoes obviously.
@TheTeknikFrik
@TheTeknikFrik 3 жыл бұрын
Pro-helmet = like
@bman6065
@bman6065 3 жыл бұрын
I was wondering what was up with the topless hang boarder. Fail videos are hard to pass up when the failee is hot.
@piecemaker74
@piecemaker74 3 жыл бұрын
on that first fall, i don't really see the belayer coming off the ground much, even though it looks like the lead climber fell around 15ft or so. wondering why that happened...too static a rope? belayer heavy and didn't absorb any of the impulse by giving a little jump? could add to explaining the injury. I don't see him hitting a ledge either! lmk what you think
@EgWyps
@EgWyps 3 жыл бұрын
Amazing episode lmao. I think that first fall was mostly the climber's fault as he didn't even attempt to brace the fall with his legs. Doesn't look like he hit a ledge or anything, just had a lot of momentum coming back into the wall because he jumped away from it and then didn't brace with his legs.
@RossPotts
@RossPotts 3 жыл бұрын
That el cap climb was some knuckleheads during the recent storming of the capitol building
3 жыл бұрын
Is interesting to see how random the rocks falls. I mean in the second clip of lose rocks.
@eladelmakies9888
@eladelmakies9888 3 жыл бұрын
Great video! Light but informative as always What is your advice regarding to low grade routs with lots of ledges (or not so vertical terrain)? Would you give the leader a hard catch that can end with a swing to the wall or a soft catch? As an outdoor beginner this is my main dilemma.
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
It is totally situational but with low grade stuff the climber will have to be skilled enough to know what the no fall zone is. Some places if you take a fall you are just going to get hurt there is nothing a belayer can do about it. So the leader has to protect from hitting that “ledge”. This for example can mean clipping in very close to a piece of gear with out any runners this will protect him better above a ledge but will cause rope drag. So they might then have to down climb and back clean that piece.
@sastrugi4471
@sastrugi4471 3 жыл бұрын
10:40 certainly no danger of significant brain damage
@Jack-ny7kn
@Jack-ny7kn 3 жыл бұрын
I've backed off of easy climbs before because of that crap. Who cares if it's only 5.9 when you're going to fall into a ledge. I would rather climb something harder even if a fall is likely, because at least then I know it's safe, vs. accepting the remote possibility of a fall on something easy that could be catastrophic.
@nickycrawl
@nickycrawl 3 жыл бұрын
Chest harnesses are an option to prevent those funky falls.
@user-pr5tx9ep4m
@user-pr5tx9ep4m 3 жыл бұрын
But so uncool.
@nathandevan3114
@nathandevan3114 3 жыл бұрын
I have some (a lot?) additional thoughts/analysis/speculation. Hopefully I don't sound like a douche but these are my thoughts. 1st climber: Given that it's 5.9, bent arms, and uncertainty in his action, it seems like he's not a very experienced climber and not a very experienced faller. This isn't a complete no no but will come with more risk. Downclimbing can be a helpful solution if you're abandoning the send. But the height of the fall shouldn't cause it to be more dangerous. The pin point of the issue was when he didn't absorb any impact with his legs and instead with his side/hip/back. The reason that happened is because he didn't fall in a standing position through the air. The rest is more speculative but it appears his hands gave out from pump first and in a way that he didn't expect or wasn't prepared for. On his way down at eye level, you can see his feet were still on the wall, causing him to rotate backwards (and a little sideways) and thus not be in a position to absorb the impact with his legs. This is also the reason why high feet, high heel/toe hooks and heel-toe cams can be dangerous, because if you don't remove your foot from the wall in time, you'll find yourself rotating backwards on the way down. I don't think staying away from high grades and onsight attempts is a general solution, but it would lower risk and sounds like a good recommendation for beginners. The main thing to manage there is experience level vs trying hard. It's more dangerous to try hard if you don't have good experience safely recovering or falling, and onsighting is always more risky than projecting. 2nd climber/belayer: This will get a little nit-picky, I hope I'm not grossly over analyzing. Fortunately the clip starts with the short rope, which was pretty blatant. I imagine this caused the belayer to become a little embarrassed and want to avoid doing it again, so he prepared a lot of intermediate slack (not an invalid method on a grigri but too much of it I think like OP mentions). But the root cause was still present. Poor attention to the climber caused the short rope, and poor attention caused inappropriate reaction to the next clip and fall. When the climber started clipping, the belayer paid out all of the slack immediately. Given the proximity to the ground it would have been safer to give out only part of it. And more if needed. It can be unsafe to over-feed slack. You can see in the video that the little bit of rope the climber already pulls up was just about enough to reach the clip (his hand knocks into the quickdraw and you can see it swinging). So there was too much slack overall, let alone initially. One of the smaller differences of many between a belayer and a good belayer is watching how much slack the climber actually needs to clip and attempting to match that. This next bit is more speculative than the rest, but it seems like the belayer didn't really consider that a fall there could be dangerous and therefore didn't take extra precaution. Sometimes I see people climb/belay with the mentality that as long as they follow the checklist of what they learned in lead belay class at the gym, they'll be safe. They don't teach you how to appropriately asses a near-ground clip, fall, and catch. You don't always need to have a "smile" of slack. That can be dangerous close to the ground. Maybe silly, but it seems from the belayers right cheek like he's smiling after the fall, like he was just surprised and had no idea it could have happened or that there were any mistakes, although I tend to laugh off mistakes myself so oh well. I've had people make inaccurate speculation about things I've done too. Obviously it's best to keep attentive and don't belay complacently. The belayer could have been standing closer under the clip to reduce fall distance, like I saw someone mention. I agree. But it looked like he was only a few feet away so nothing egregious. Falls where something slips out and the climber hangs on for up to an additional second are lucky. In my personal experience this is ample time for the belayer to react. I'm guessing the belayer didn't know what to do with what he saw happening or at least didn't have any habits or muscle memory to take over and pull some slack back in. I'm not even going to take a look at him leaving the brake strand. That doesn't need any explaining. I don't think the climber did anything wrong except probably misplace trust in inexperience. 3rd climber: This guy's just a goddamn idiot.
@notmenerfed2293
@notmenerfed2293 3 жыл бұрын
Does anyone have a link for the video with the strange fall in competitive lead climbing mentioned in the clip at 06:27?
@sriderhi8784
@sriderhi8784 3 жыл бұрын
I wonder if someone is going to post a video of an FA at that exact spot at the Capitol.
@junyuzhang414
@junyuzhang414 2 жыл бұрын
Man watching ur fail videos make me never want to climb lead top rope and just stick in door bouldering… or hang board from my bathroom door
@onzeit1822
@onzeit1822 3 жыл бұрын
Your friend's lead fall clip is gold. Yes, the belayer should've been ready to "sit down" to remove slack from the system but his belaying is not too bad. The climber underestimates the amount of slack he demands from the belayer. So it's also bad judgement (and bad luck) by the climber that he decided to clip high and then falling in the worst possbile moment. It's awesome if you belayer can fix your error but yeah, the belayer doesn't look 100% familiar with his GriGri. Good to see the climber is alright.
@bartthrupp
@bartthrupp 3 жыл бұрын
“He pressed some disks or whatever”Love the channel but as as pro guitar player I’m like well f**k that. Thanks for the epic videos love your work Beta. Lemme know if you ever need guitar lessons 😁
@bartthrupp
@bartthrupp 3 жыл бұрын
Respect the ledge people
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
I play on a banjo 🪕 😄
@bartthrupp
@bartthrupp 3 жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers I saw you play banjo in one episode I could not believe my eyes! Would love to see some more banjo in future videos 🪕 👍
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
@@bartthrupp 🤣 yeah I wish I had more time to practice.
@bartthrupp
@bartthrupp 3 жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers you can only do so much mate. Keep up the great work with the videos.
@florianfanderl6674
@florianfanderl6674 3 жыл бұрын
I think number had absolutely no idea how to fall, was pretty scared and was a total beginner. I mean he even grabs the rope instead of using his hands to not crash into the wall. That's what you learn in the most basic lead climbing courses. Guess it was one of those "a friend of a friend told me how to do this" moments, where both totally misjudged the situation. Or they did just go directly from the gym to outdoors.
@NYpaddler
@NYpaddler 3 жыл бұрын
Sometimes things happen that teach you that you don't always behave the way you thought you would, regardless of how much you think you'll do what you know is the right thing. Grabbing things is a very powerful instinct that frequently causes problems when grabbing something isn't the correct reaction. Same thing with the belayer in clip #2. He presumably knows that reaching up and wrapping both hands around both side of the rope is ineffective, but it's very easy to give in to the instinctive reaction.
@partykrew666
@partykrew666 3 жыл бұрын
First dude also looked like he skipped a couple of bolts. Might not be a great choice on a ledgey 5.9 when you're getting super pumped
@GearZenChannel
@GearZenChannel 3 жыл бұрын
Does nobody anchor at the belay?
@josephfrechette9586
@josephfrechette9586 3 жыл бұрын
@4:55 Damn! looks like belayer let go of break strand and tried to just grab the rope with both hands.
@TesterAnimal1
@TesterAnimal1 3 жыл бұрын
Lundy Island is the place for trundling. Hardly any population. And lots of loose, sea-battered rock.
@therflash
@therflash 2 жыл бұрын
The belayer at 4:45 let go of the brake end and the climber decked.
@2wentytwoterry196
@2wentytwoterry196 3 жыл бұрын
I feel like the guy in the first video could have clipped much sooner as well. Hope he gets better and that experience doesn't prevent him from coming back. really unlucky as well.
@rycdesign
@rycdesign 3 жыл бұрын
Dude you are so funny! If you’re ever in Minneapolis I’ll buy you a pint
@toadamine
@toadamine 3 жыл бұрын
If a rock can be toppled by a human, it should be toppled by a human.
@GageW68
@GageW68 3 жыл бұрын
Can anyone explain rock climbers made up terms for different things? The first fail the climb was described as "juggy." Other times I've heard people say they have to "jug" a line? I can't think of a single way to relate those words with anything related to any kind of climbing. And you can't forget the made up word for ascenders: "Jumar." Do you guys throw your make believe words into conversations as a secret way to gatekeep the hobby from new climbers? Please explain.
@mattm.2824
@mattm.2824 3 жыл бұрын
"Bro, I climb 11b in the Gym!" Says the Gumby on a juggy 9. LOL
@yvindwestrum1439
@yvindwestrum1439 3 жыл бұрын
Nice!
@johnathanfoster8213
@johnathanfoster8213 2 жыл бұрын
“You good you alright” … “yes” … “as the guy turns into an attack helicopter” 😂😂 that got me
@joseflittle4493
@joseflittle4493 3 жыл бұрын
Love the warnings
@FallLineJP
@FallLineJP 3 жыл бұрын
"You can tell by his breathing [and the gopro on his head] that he's a little out of his element here"
@AZDesertExplorer
@AZDesertExplorer 3 жыл бұрын
Saturday is the best day! Where’s my BetaBuddy!?
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
Lol it’s coming like a slow coal train
@AZDesertExplorer
@AZDesertExplorer 3 жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers Really cool idea, can’t wait to see the progression.
@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog
@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 3 жыл бұрын
On fail #1 the belayer could have given a slightly softer catch. I think the climber was out of his element but the belayer looks like he was as well.
@pajamabird6912
@pajamabird6912 3 жыл бұрын
did the submitter of the video say what route that was? it looks really familiar to me haha
@BetaClimbers
@BetaClimbers 3 жыл бұрын
Leave a time stamp. I’ll check it out
@pajamabird6912
@pajamabird6912 3 жыл бұрын
@@BetaClimbers the first one in the vid
@mikejacobs399
@mikejacobs399 3 жыл бұрын
Fall #2 was the belayers fault, This guy fed out way to much slack to fast and was not watching what was really going on.
@PetrVejchoda
@PetrVejchoda 3 жыл бұрын
5:50 he actually stepped over the rope
@seedmole
@seedmole 3 жыл бұрын
On the issue of trundling ethics, I gotta say that removing rocks by simply knocking them off the cliff seems likely to dislodge other stuff below it.. Seems that the best way to trundle would be to collect rocks in rope bags or something before lowering them down non-destructively. And for super huge ones like that person-sized rock in the second trundling clip, where it's probably too big to remove in that way, you could maybe secure it with some ropes and lower it down. This may just be my take as an outsider to the whole climbing world, but it seems completely counter-intuitive to set out to clean up a route only to do so in a way that potentially lets those rocks slam into the cliff face multiple times on its way down. It probably depends on the type of rock, and of course it would vary by route (tossing something off an overhang without any ledges below it surely wouldn't cause any collisions with other potentially-loose rocks).. but still, seems like the places where loose rock is an issue could be likely to have other rock knocked loose when trundling by just knocking stuff loose and letting it fall. It's definitely a conundrum either way lol. Can't allow any serious risk to your belayer (or other people at the base) when you're on the wall, but also how can you be sure that sending the rock over the edge won't contribute to more loose rock in the long run?
@Mindofliz
@Mindofliz 3 жыл бұрын
The second clip looks like the belayer didn't even try to pull up slack, he just grabbed the top rope...?
@fritzalvinranara9140
@fritzalvinranara9140 3 жыл бұрын
I really love the jacket
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