The video I wish I watched before buying a SHELIX

[@TheSnekkerShow]

After numerous questions and comments about amperage measurements and circuit breakers, I decided to disassemble the original circuit breaker from this planer and overload it with twice the rated amperage: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGXJXn1mobuiY6c. Thanks for keeping me on my toes and challenging anything that doesn't sound right, it makes this channel a lot more interesting for all of us. Fun fact: This video resulted in Byrd Tool Experts (a distributor of Byrd Tool Corp products) contacting me for an interview, which you can see here: byrdtoolexperts.com/the-snekker-show-interview If you're looking for an installation video, your search is over: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bnuTo6l4np2UZs0

[@Ritalie]

Sorry for being late to the party. So to clarify, are you certain that the amperage was 27 amps? and 31 amps for the different cutters? Okay, I just found the video where you clarify and prove the amperage draw very clearly here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGXJXn1mobuiY6c at 21:00 minutes. There is a tremendous load on a tool that has to remove that much material, versus a tiny 3/32" wide saw blade. I measured my Grizzly 1 1/2 horsepower, 17 amp, 120 volt table saw motor. The measured current was only 10 amps with no load on it. This explains why I was able to use my table saw for hours at at time on really old knob and tube wiring in my old farm shop. The rating on the motor is obviously the "full load" current. My mind is blown, that a planer can draw 30 amps and be rated for 15 amps full load current.

[@richardseifried7574]

I bought a Shelix cutter head but haven't installed it yet. Do you know what is the torque spec for those little carbide knives?

[@TheSnekkerShow]

@@richardseifried7574 Covered at around 27 minutes into this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bnuTo6l4np2UZs0

[@molhuwmartins9723]

We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives kzbin.infoUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.

[@philkipnis740]

Thank you for that important information. I'm planning on working in hardwoods. Currently I work in redwood mostly

[@diannadearborn1117]

As a retired test engineer I appreciate the thoughtfulness and thoroughness of your tests. Concerning the difference in amperage readings between the newer DW735 with the three blades vs. the elder with the Shelix heads: The difference might not all be in the type of heads betwixt the two machines. Simply, the age disparity between the two machines might make up much of the differences in current draw per task. Bearing wear and tear, for one factor, might introduce enuf friction to cause much of the increased current required to do the same task as the newer machine. It would be most appropriate to compare the differences between the two heads (using your same methodology) on the same machine... either machine will do. That is to say: Either put the original cutter knives on the older machine and rerun the tests--OR--put the Shelix head into the newer machine and repeat. This procedure ensures that there is only one variable in play between the A-B testing... only the cutter heads are different.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

This has been brought up a few times, and I haven't tested it yet, but I doubt that three years of hobby use would cause enough wear on the motor or bearings to account for such a large difference in power draw. Having said that, I've been wrong before, and I'm sure I'll be wrong again. If I ever switch back to the OEM knives, I'll try to remember to take some before and after measurements.

[@genebruce6321]

If the bearings caused that much extra draw, they would get pretty hot pretty quickly.

[@JonDunnmusician]

Well thought out

[@zokraft]

@@genebruce6321 the table might not be as smooth as in a new machine. Drive belts state and tension can also have something to do with power consumption.

[@cuebj]

In addition to comments already made, DeWalt might use a better quality motor. Who knows what component parts they source based on what's available at any time?

[@bobcat3905]

Spiral cutters are a nice upgrade and offer a smoother cut, but are also known to require a little more power vs the three blade cutters due to the space in between the 3 blades allows for free spin on the cutter head whereas the spiral cutter blades are constantly engaged in the material thus requiring an added amount of draw on the Amps.

[@andrewouimette5389]

It's the same reason PWM (pulse width modulated) circuits draw less power. It's very fast on/off/on/off. Which is essentially what you get with the OEM knives.

[@ideaguyinks]

I have to say this is the most well thought out video I've watched in a long time. You paid attention to volume (most don't) and your process was spot on when comparing both units. I wish everyone could learn from you how to make a good informative video. Thanks for your time.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

I give your comment five stars, Mr. Critique. Don't watch my older stuff.

[@MrLonstar]

100% agree. When I read I title, I thought - typical KZbin click bait. Then I saw it was 45 mins long. Thought - this could go either way. Extremely good video. Explained what needed to be explained, could skip through what was blah blah to me, but all the way through it was informative and stayed on point. Thank you. Extremely surprised on the amp draw. For me, it was jaw dropping. I'm in the process of refurbishing an older 12" jointer and swapped out the 4.5HP 3 phase motor for a Baldor 5HP single phase (230V). It's rated at 20 amps but planned on running 10 gauge wire for the outlet. Eventually the outlet will also power a [220v~240v] planer. After seeing this I think I'll go with 8 gauge from panel to outlet.

[@cdawg9149]

Im more blown away at your testing than the actual planer differences

[@das250250]

Thumbs up because you invested in the video by buying two units ..got to admire anybody who puts skin in the game

[@HoroRH]

Wow. This was the most comprehensive and analytical review of a home hobbiest product I’ve seen. Thx very much for an excellent vid.

[@sr5doug]

Years ago when I made roll top desks and other furniture for a living I had the pleasure of using a 52” planer with a whisper cut head which is real similar to the shelix. It was real quiet and very aggressive w no tear out. Could take off 1/2” at a time on 12” poplar.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Wow, I bet the lights in the surrounding neighborhood dimmed when you turned that on.

[@JustinMurray170fin]

This guy is no stranger to logical reasoning Oh, man do I ❤ his humour: "If I wanna run a ham sandwich through one of these, I'm gonna do that." 🤣 Great video - appreciate your diligence - Kudos.

[@retiredusmc9090]

This is the most informative perspective on the Dewalt 735 planer I have seen yet. Thank you for being so thorough and covering info that most just overlook.

[@drboze6781]

8:15 - "Some people find that to be a huge pain in the neck." As a retired machinist, I laughed at this. I've routinely rotated inserts on facemills, some had up to 20 inserts. It only takes a few seconds for each one. Facemills, endmills, drills, etc. You just do it and get on with the job.

[@griffincouture7486]

As a Machinist by day and Furniture carpenter by night, this also made me laugh!

[@ThomasLips]

I really appreciate you making this video. It answered a lot of questions. I recently bought the dewalt as my 25 year old delta was getting tired... or maybe I was getting tired of it 😉 I solved the tear out problem years ago by buying a thickness sander. I go to the sander with my material .0625" thicker than finished dimensions and take .015" per pass. As a small furniture maker the extra effort guarantees me a perfect product with no tear out. I subscribed to your channel after watching this first video... well done!!!

[@MattMadeIt123]

Why I like the Shelix... Better chip extraction. The Shelix creates smaller chips than straight knives that are easier to extract. Easy and quick to change to a new cutting edge. But most importantly is the vastly improved cut quality over straight knives especially on woods with difficult grain.

[@richardlug6139]

And there is why he is drawing more amps from the Sheila head it is doing more cutting/revolution thus smaller chips.

[@bartosullivan8050]

I think I purchased mine back in 08 and it still works well for my needs. I don't use it often, but I've run everything from Walnut to African Mahogany to Purple Heart, and even Ipe. It's a slow process, but the machine works. If I were to offer anyone advise it would be to take your time and enjoy the process. This thing is anything but fast. I run with the OEM Blades and trash them when they're done. Before this planer I had a 22,000 lb Oliver Stratoplane, that's a different story. I enjoyed your comparison. Extremely well done! Thank you.

[@martymachowski2239]

Great answer to which Shelix to buy - the down sized or the OEM. You explained the challenges with the undersized version perfectly. Thank You!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

You're quite welcome.

[@DIYerGuy]

This is a very interesting video and comparison especially because I'm also an electronics engineer. As was previously mentioned, there are issues with the differences in age of the bearings, wear-and-tear, etc with the older planer. How much of a difference, or to what extent those differences would have a direct correlation to amperage draw is hard to say. Since one machine is from 2017 and the other from 2020 (I think that's what you said), there would obviously be differences between the two machines in terms of "burn-in", meaning that all mechanical aspects of the system are more or less "settled" (though of course, nothing in a mechanical system is ever permanently settled). Another consideration would be the possible differences in the motor efficiency between the older machine and the newer one: I doubt DeWalt would be willing to provide any quantitative numbers on either machine's motors in terms of efficiency based on their respective serial numbers (which could be traced directly back to a production run, etc). If the newer machine's motor (and other machines going forward) reflects a slight design improvement that increases its efficiency to do work, how would anyone know, except DeWalt perhaps. Also, there may be some unknown "minor improvement" in some other parts of the the system that could yield less stress on the motors and so produce less current draw. Too many unknown variables. Since your first machine has been in use, it's probably not a good test candidate to use as a DUT (Device Under Test) in a comparison because of the previously mentioned use/wear-tear issues. It would be more accurate to make a comparison between two of the same model machines, from the same manufacturing runs - if that's even possible, which I doubt - that are newly purchased together, and from the same vendor. But there could still be a question on the efficiency of the motors between two of the same machine, so purchasing two new machines is not a perfect solution, not to mention a costly one. It would be less costly to simply swap blades, i.e. put the stock blades from the newer machine into the old machine and see what the results produce, and visa-versa, put the helix blades into the newer machine and see what that produces then compare the results. Though this was not exactly a scientifically accurate comparison, I still think the comparison was revealing enough and was a very interesting video. Thank you for taking the time and effort to do this. And I hope you find use for the 2nd planer! By the way I am thinking of purchasing the very same DeWalt planner so not only was your video interesting and informative, I learned that there are after-market Helix blades (who knew!) and a bit about the internals of that planner as well ! I look forward to some of your other videos !

[@marknasia5293]

I love it, i explain to my wife on a regular basis i could use two planers. She isn’t biting yet, but i am coming up with new and creative ideas to justify having a second one :) I am enjoying the channel and puns. Thanks for taking the time to do this comparison on a serious note. I am in SE Asia and it is challenging to get the parts to show up, not to mention the mark up. So this information is welcomed and yes the original TR was much better than the newer one, although I didn’t mind watching the second TR. Quaid start the reactor… is priceless.

[@captain757747]

I thought about getting a helix cutter for my dewalt p[laner. I asked a dewalt service center rep if it really was as good as they claim. this is what he said " if you put that cutter on your machine then you void the warranty.'. He invited me into the back and showed me about a half dozen machines with burnt out motors. This planer is not made to handle the extra load one of these cutters puts on it. He said' if you have a belt driven machine like a jointer or a large size planer that is not a problem'. I stay with the standard blades.

[@capti443]

Excellent discussion! Well conceived, organized, thorough, and intelligently delivered. I installed a Shelix head on my 8” jointer and had planned to upgrade my DeWalt planer next. I already decided to go with the OEM size head and you confirmed my decision. I was thinking about your discussion of the warranty matter and I think that you also need to consider the entire drive train of the cleaner that is under higher stress which results in the motor drawing higher amps. So there’s more than just the motor in the thermal overload breaker to be considered I think.Thanks!!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Good to hear, thanks for the feedback.

[@advancednutritioninc908]

One more reason why the current is higher on the Shelix - is that there is overlap between the cutter head squares so as to not leave a line between them. So in effect you have more inches of knife edge hitting your board on each pass thus increasing the friction as the cutters pass across the board. Friction = Power draw! Based on everything you have said and what I understand I would still vote for the shelix every time! The sheer reduction of cutter head replacement and hassle it worth it! Thanks for the video! liked !!

[@trevorlambert4226]

The amount that overlaps will still only get cut once, despite being passed over by two different cutters. There might be a tiny amount of friction that the second cutter imparts as it grazes it, but I think that would be a negligible contribution to the current draw.

[@advancednutritioninc908]

@@trevorlambert4226 so you admit it would be a LITTLE more current. I am interested in your explanation for the additional current?

[@jeremymyers5643]

@@advancednutritioninc908 the surface area of the wood being cut is a fixed dimension,shouldn't matter if there is overlap in cutters as far as load is concerned.

[@advancednutritioninc908]

@@jeremymyers5643 You could be right, but I was thinking there could be more cutter area rubbing the wood if there was significant overlap. More friction, more drag, more motor current.

[@kenrobbins1927]

I've had the same experience as far as circuit load. However, it was simple to manage; I just take smaller cuts. It cuts so much nicer, especially on figured grain, that it's no contest. The Shelix wins hands down, every time.........

[@mrpotat680]

what limit were you able to pull off per pass, at least a 16th right?

[@makapalatrace8385]

You’ve got me thinking bout my future shop wiring as much as blades.

[@briangc1972]

If your planer rate of feed is not adjustable, the increase in the amp test is partly because cutter edges pf the smaller diameter roller cutter is effectively traveling at a lower speed (FPM) and as a result is taking a larger bite per revolution, thus loading the cutting edge slightly more. Also, that style carbide cutter does not have the same type of razor edge as your standard planer blades; it is a slightly less sharp edge. If you run your finger along a planer knife edge length wise , it will cut you, those carbide inserts will not. Not a bad thing, but it answers the questions of why the motor sounds different and the amp draw is higher.

[@rueban96]

Excellent insight. I'd like to see the same test with the OEM diameter to match surface speed.

[@lockgessner]

I somewhat disagree with the sharpness comment, as a machinist I fully understand edge prep on carbide but cutters such as this or high positives for aluminum work and generally dead sharp. Carbide deff can be as sharp as steel its just not the norm for metal work.

[@intjonmiller]

@@lockgessner Can be, yes, but as a general rule carbide inserts aren't as sharp as high speed steel tooling. It's quite uncommon for them to be sharpened from the factory. Typically they are molded and sintered and the shrinkage during the sintering process is what passes for sharpening (reduces the radius of the edge). As many (notably Stefan Gotteswinter within the KZbin / Instagram machinist community) have shown, you can sharpen your inserts to be every bit as sharp as high speed steel, but you have to actually sharpen them. Stefan built a low speed diamond lapping machine for that purpose. It is unlikely that anyone will be taking the time to sharpen all of their carbide inserts on all faces for a Shelix planer head.

[@andrewmartinek9135]

I think there may be one other reason for the amp draw. Earlier in the video he said that the smaller Helix roller causes the plainer roller to push down more. That could create enough resistance to cause the amps to increase. Also look at the amps when he turns the machine on. The Helix roller rest amps are lower compared to the original roller rest amps. Why is that? Or maybe I’m just talking out of my ass because I really don’t know.

[@alphazuluz]

I think you’re spot on. I think the sharpness is the more important factor, though. One is an actual knife, with a 25 degree (or so) cutting edge, while the other is a carbide cutter with a 60ish degree edge. That makes the carbide cutters FAR more durable, but they will not slice as well. It’s like trying to slice a tomato with a razor sharp axe vs a razor sharp kitchen knife. They will both cut it, but the thinner edge on the knife will do it with less effort. If horsepower is not a concern, and you have a 10hp motor, who cares about a little more effort? But when you have a 1-2hp motor, it makes a difference.

[@jerrys576]

Great info on the OEM & Undersized cutters. Totally SHOCKED at the amp draw. Glad I have a new 20 amp line in the shop.

[@fiveoboy01]

Any tool will draw excessive current if you overload it, which was the case here. A full turn of the height adjustment handle is generally too much for any hardwood. I do 1/4 turn increments and 1/2 turn at the most.

[@s9plus20]

Here is an idea: With the Shelix head one (or more) of the cutters is constantly in the wood. There is no work relief between cuts. With the straight knives one (admittedly big) cutter is in the wood then you have no cutter in the wood for 1/3 of a rotation. During that rotation there is relief from some of the work load, the head can gain speed before going into the next contact.

[@sandroreis5593]

i think you nailed it

[@brianmonroe861]

I don’t mind removing the cutters. I would do that regardless. Thank you for this video. I went through 6 blades within a couple weeks. I don’t usually work with pine, but I have had a few customers who were wanting used lumber for their furniture. I always remove all nails, staples, and fasteners and run a strong neodymium magnet along the board prior to planing. However, I have been running into boards with aluminum nails. It is extremely frustrating.

[@claudebieniek7272]

I wrecked 2 bandsaw blades. So I bought a metal detector on Amazon, the same as the tsa use. Saved me a lot of money because I use a lot of reclaimed wood. Able to find many dinky pieces of steel.

[@GoodMorning-zh6le]

What really helps is how unusually comfortable this guys voice is lol, i went from- "wow 40+ min vid.." to" 👀.. oh its almost over.." 😂

[@Greybeardmedic]

Can't wait to see you run a ham sandwich through the planer. Its like Sweeps Week for KZbin, come up with the most outrageous content possible in order to draw in viewers. Ham Sandwich please!

[@mikesanchez9654]

Perfect video!. . .I learned more from watching your video than watching 10 other KZbin videos combined, on the same subject from other guys. I just bought the same DeWalt planer and Shelix cutter head (only had it 3 days now) and I work mostly with soft woods like Birch and Pine. The most interesting part of your video was the amp draw test - very interesting. Keep up the great videos!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@mikesanchez9654]

FYI: After watching your other video about countersinks, I too realized that for years I've been using the wrong bits. . .unbelievable! When you've been a "garage guy" like myself for over 30 years, and you think you're soooo smart - you learn something new. I love it!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

@@mikesanchez9654 I'm reminded constantly how little I know. Keeps things exciting.

[@brianfalls5894]

I sure appreciate you posting up this video. I was very much surprised. I would have expected the planer with the bigger, stock head to use more power than the planer with the smaller diameter Shelix head. Very interesting results for sure!

[@dennisfahlstrom7175]

VERY informative. I too upgraded to the Shellix but I did so on my 8” Grizzly joiner. The 16” Grizzly planer came with the Shellix but it also came with a 5 hp 220V motor. The Joiner came with a 3 hp 220 motor. I did find that the joiner loaded down more with the upgraded Shellix. The planer with the larger stock motor did not have any problems even with more aggressive depth settings.

[@g.fortin3228]

I kinda wish you would have included light pass planing, like 1/3 turn of the wheel. I almost never take a full turn in one swipe when planing 5/4 stock and trying to keep the most thickness for the projects. Nice test though, especially the amp test. Wow.. had no idea I was drawing that much with it. My 20 amp breakers (new circuits) never blow.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Maybe something for a future video. I normally take light passes too, and have likewise never tripped the breaker in the panel. I've tripped breakers in the planer and in an extension cord reel, but not in the panel.

[@JackWagonOne]

You and these videos are the primary reason I bought a SHELIX cutter head for my still new in box 735X! Thank you.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thanks for the feedback. It's good to hear it was useful.

[@jamesramey3549]

Very informative, thank you for taking the time to run through all these tests for us.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

You're quite welcome.

[@TheFeralEngineer]

I have the 734. No option for smaller cutter, so I had to pull out all of the inserts. It's not the end of the world. I carefully used an impact driver and the screws came out easily. I also stuck a wixey dro on my lunchbox and it's an absolute dream to use now 👌 The movie reboot reference was great, btw 😆

[@dovgoldstein3755]

I'm just a hobby woodworker, so I'm curious about the cost and if you have advice for a new planer? Thx

[@jayrose9463]

Great job I have a 735x on the way Already had the spiral. So I’m excited on the savings

[@jayrose9463]

Turns out I made that up. I bought this planer and a jointer. Jointer was spiral This is straight Oh well

[@JonDunnmusician]

Thank you for the update my planer just past a year in retrospect, beyond warranty- upon having it repaired the high-end technician recommended never getting the Shelix head due to the high heat created beside the plastic parts in the DeWalt planer- you're far far better to invest in a commercial planer using consistently @higher level

[@TheSnekkerShow]

@JonDunnmusician The planer has a thermal breaker in the front, which should shut down the motor before the heat levels get high enough to melt anything, regardless of cutterhead type.

[@thebobloblawshow8832]

FYI: I bought a metal detector wand. It’s about the size if a barbecue lighter. They’re about 60-80 dollars. But if you’re planning down old wood it’s a great investment.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

For some reason, that's one of those tools that I've always wanted, but just never bought. I used to use a lot of reclaimed wood, and was constantly hitting wire brads and staples. Probably would have paid for itself ten times by now.

[@thebobloblawshow8832]

@@TheSnekkerShow : for sure. The price I quoted was Canadian dollars. So it should cost at least 35% cheaper. This is not a regular metal detector. It is short range only. This is what you use to narrow down the area when your metal detector goes off. So when you use it you have to be close. Small sweeps, you’ll get the hang of it.

[@396fab]

Glad I stumbled on this. Very interesting. Confirmed my thought that planers with helix cutters should be spun on minimally 240v induction motors. Been on the fence about this same Dewalt or just overhauling my very very old currently not working Powermatic 5hp planer and this demo tipped the scale. So, rolling up my sleeves and getting to work on the old planer. Great work and information! Thank you.

[@ferretfez6976]

I would have liked to have seen the draw on your old machine before you switched the blades but that said a VERY good video. Personally as I would not throw out the original blades if I upgraded it, if it went wrong and I needed to return it I would just put the original blades back in first.

[@dtom1145]

Nice vid, good detail. I bought a set of carbide blades for my DW735 for a whole lot less than the Shelix (less than half) and they work great. I have had them for just over 3 years now and they still cut like new. I have run all hardwoods including some figured with no problems. I'm a serious woodworker and use the planer often.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

What brand did you get? I bought some carbide knives for my jointer a couple years ago, and they still nicked before too long. Otherwise they're still sharp, but I've been replacing one knife at a time with steel to get rid of the nicks. I mill my own lumber, so that might be part of the problem.

[@timkeepers3325]

Why on earth did you not give the product name??

[@bullwinkle7542]

What brand of carbide did you buy ? I am thinking of buying a planner

[@hemogoblin164]

Because your rollers are so tight on the Shelix non-oem, I think you need to test the draw on the oem Shelix. That extra draw is probably due to how much harder it needs to work to pull the board through.

[@Otto-W]

That's a thought I had as well.

[@SkylopianFever]

Just watched the interview you linked. I just stumbled upon your channel last week and I just wanted to express my gratitude as a new woodworker. The way you explain the why’s with everything you do is extremely helpful. It is evident you enjoy teaching and you do it well. I’m looking forward to seeing new continent, but am equally excited to go back and watch your other videos. Thank you!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thank you, and welcome to the channel.

[@jose83771]

If you think about power draw and amps pulled all equals to overload on motor and belt, so the wear and tear and all the parts will be more so most likely will get damaged faster than running the oem style

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Agreed, the more you use a tool or the harder you make it work, the faster the parts will wear out. The same could be said of planing oak compared to pine, or business use compared to hobby use.

[@SYKOK1LLER]

Got one coming tomorrow that I picked up for $450. If I ever get shelix the blade is going to nearly match the machine price. No rush for it at current prices.

[@musicbymark]

Thanks for the updated video and caution about undersized vs. OEM. BTW, great that you compost, but be sure to add lots of greens/grass clippings to offset all that sawdust (super high in carbon) :-)

[@toms4123]

One of the best reviews I have seen on YT. Factual, competent, detailed and objective. Thank you.

[@GuteisFinger]

Very thorough and enlightening comparison. The amp draws with the stock planer call the soundness of the entire design into question over the long haul. One point I think your viewers should consider is that the replacement heads give the manufacturer a reason to say "no" to warranty coverage, like the first response you got from Dewalt, which really was the same as the second. I think this would be especially true with the Shelix, given the fact that Dewalt probably has tested their amp draw as well. I could be wrong, but there is certainly an argument that the heads affect the motor because of the amp draw. This was the best video I'm aware of on this topic. Very much worth the remake. Thanks.

[@erfuellte-ehe]

I LOVE how you challenged the response on warranty. I am often frustrated with hotlines of large companies & the lack of transparency and personal responsibility. Definitly inspiring. You got yourself subscriber even just for that. ❤

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thanks for commenting, and welcome to the channel.

[@markfrye9178]

Your thoroughness is amazing. Your delivery is quite good also I've watched both your videos on the Shelix cutters. I hope your channel grows and grows.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thank you for the kind feedback.

[@dkdj5]

I would put the original cutter backing if you need put it in for repairs. For one it would keep them from hesitating working on it or warranting repairs. Secondly if they replace the whole unit due to needing excessive repairs then you would likely loose your cutter head.

[@connorlorenzo2162]

Sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!

[@marleycolin954]

@Connor Lorenzo Instablaster ;)

[@connorlorenzo2162]

@Marley Colin i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.

[@connorlorenzo2162]

@Marley Colin it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thank you so much you saved my account !

[@marleycolin954]

@Connor Lorenzo You are welcome :)

[@hasanzaidi6573]

Louis ck made it easy to understand the pros and cons of this upgrade, thanks!

[@jayneal8293]

Very interesting and informative! Thanks for the video!

[@stevecuthbert8856]

Very thorough test. I was impressed by the noise reduction and surprised by the increased amp draw with the Shelix head. I had similar noise reduction when I installed a Shelix head in my Grizzly jointer. The quality of the cut is most of what I am interested in but the noise reduction is an added bonus to me. You've sold me on the Shelix and will be purchasing for my DW733. You've earned a new subscriber my friend.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thank you, and welcome to the channel.

[@gcreekinstruments9327]

Did you install on your DW733? What results on amp draw (stalling out) and quality of cut? Jim Phillips

[@gerardlunow567]

Pretty obvious you are not just a woodworker. Looks like engineering education. I am about to buy one and learned about Shelix. A good plane makes all of my hobby woodworking better. I am about to make perfect fitting kitchen drawers on roller bearing slides. Great video, unpretentious host with the intelligent thought behind it all. Very cool.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@gerardlunow567]

@@TheSnekkerShow I bought one yesterday and then was surprised how big the box was. I drove my car vs the Jeep. I'll build it in a wall rack so I can flip it up. When I picked the box up I realized how heavy it was. There are so many things I can use it for.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

@@gerardlunow567 Congratulations, that's a nice addition. If you didn't get the extension tables, I'd recommend buying or building those to keep snipe to a minimum.

[@lloydlee6643]

Got my DeWalt 735 earlier in the week (6/2021)and called Byrd today to order my shelix OEM cutter head. Requests are so numerous that they can't get me an OEM until Sept/ Oct 2021. WOW

[@johndrennanjr594]

Thank You for posting this, I had no idea that to actually get the best job from this planer I should get the Shelix cutter head. Taking the cost of thos planer & get the best from it will cost an additional 500 dollars

[@TheSnekkerShow]

It's definitely a nice improvement, but I've owned thickness planers for more than 20 years before getting this. Don't rush the upgrade unless you're sure it's the right move for you.

[@petercyr]

Great comparison video. I recently bought one of these planers as I gear up my garage but haven't had a chance to use it yet. Pretty certain my garage is on 15amps at the moment and I've already blown the breaker combining a portable ceramic heater and a shopvac. It'll be interesting to see how long till I need to call an electrician over to upgrade my garage breakers.. I have a feeling its definitely not going to cut it as is.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Yeah, that will be close, especially if you want to capture the dust instead of breathing it. There are some clever designs for filter cabinets to eliminate the need for simultaneous dust collection, but an electrical upgrade is probably inevitable.

[@richardlug6139]

You will be doing more than upgrading your breakers. You will have to run heavier wire to the receptacle also.

[@shanegillespie6014]

Very nice and informative. I did not see the first video so I found this one much better. : ) I kick myself every time I use my Jet 15" for not going with a Shelix. It's going to get to a point that purchasing the Shelix will be cheaper than the wear and tear on my shoes.

[@shanegillespie6014]

So why does the spiral head pull more amps?

[@matthewlugo6713]

44:34 - "i gotta figure out what to do with two planers,..." hahaha. first bad thought, Run them in tandem! Out of one and into the next! I or "rough" and fine cut machines, or this machine is for the mystery board with a nail ock in it. Worse yet, set one 90 degrees rotated from the first and you can plane small stock without turning the,...

[@JonathanHOODLAWHood]

It's actually not a bad idea. Maybe have a short conveyor between the two machines, and plenty of shop space. Lol

[@gregrosendahl7362]

Thanks for an excellent, in-depth video on this. I use that exact planer and have been using it for over 10 years with no trouble. I do have to agree with some of the comments though, in that something seems to be off in the amp conversion. I'm not an electrician, but it seems off. I use my planer primarily for end-grain cutting boards and have to make shallow passes because it is asking a lot of that planer to do this. I ran 10 of them through it today (about an hour of planing) and it really draws down hard on that type of planing and gets the motor hot, yet the breaker never tripped. That wouldn't be possible if it was drawing 25 - 30 amps the whole time. Especially through an extension cord.

[@johnnorris1227]

Yeah I'm wondering if something isn't off with that line splitter that he used to seperate the hot wire so he could attach the amp clamp. The way to know for sure would be to eliminate that line splitter and put the amp clamp around the hot wire on that circuit where it comes out of the breaker.

[@scotthooper5127]

I watched the entire video waiting for a comparison test of the end result of the wood surface left behind. The info you gave on the amp draw and blade caveats were great but that's not the reason I would consider buying the Shelix. Did it help with snipe or leave a nicer finish on the board? I feel informed and let down at the same time. Great editing btw. Will be subbing.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

The cutterhead does not significantly affect snipe, but this video can help with that issue: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZSyhn53rdeHr5I. Brand new steel knives will leave a smoother finish on most uncomplicated woods initially, but that doesn't always last very long. I've had several pieces of tricky-grained wood that kept chipping out even with new steel knives, but came out great using the Shelix. I actually filmed more side by side comparisons for this video, but the light was coming in to my garage at a bad angle and the surface of each board just looked like glare in the video, so I left it out.

[@blackhorse2947]

I added the same shelix head to my Dewalt DW735 a couple of years ago. Makes a very big difference.

[@gregquante8864]

You’re the AVE of woodworking. Hope you’re not offended. Love the detailed analysis. I should say you’re the AVE without the F-bombs. Love the channel

[@willymakeit1857]

Will send this video to wife every week til Christmas! Thanks!

[@jerryhubbard4461]

From the beginning, why didn't the 20 amp breaker in the panel trip? Actually, these machines should be on a 240 circuit with a double pole 40.

[@fastbackmopar7223]

I tested my old 12" Delta 22-540 which is a typical 15 amp planer. Start up current was just under 14 amps, and the no load running current was 6.7 amps. I ran an old 4"x 6" Hickory beam through it for the test. Under full load, taking a 1/16 cut off the beam, the planer was pulling just under 10 amps, as one would expect given the fact that it's a 15 amp unit.

[@CSLFiero]

lol at the thought that came to your mind while watching the total recall remake was "I, as well, am a talentless hack"

[@scottbelt8642]

I have to admit that I am a little shocked at the amp ratings between the two. But not totally surprised. I recently installed the Byrd OEM and was wondering if I had done something wrong because it seemed like it was loading the motor more than stock. Now I see it is true. It is still a worthwhile upgrade and I have no regrets.

[@MrDavidock]

You sound like Nick Offerman

[@jaytrent62]

all the other youtube woodworker channels are now jealous and pouty

[@mrb4408]

I thought the same thing within 5 secs of the vid.

[@dominicpagano4103]

I thought he sounded like Sam Harris lol

[@mrmatt24]

Exactly what I thought

[@IliadDreyfus-js9oe]

Yeah but this guy doesn't sound like a limp wristed giggling idiot

[@declaneric]

Glad I came across this video, you have a new subscriber now. A couple of things I thought about: 1. The fact that your Shelix planer was old enough to be out of warranty could add to the amperage during your test. Older motor and older bearings could both cause the power draw to be higher than doing the same task on the new planer - ESPECIALLY because the Shelix removes any gaps in the cutting process, which brings me to 2. The original three blades are separated from each other, so there is relief in those gaps, however brief it may be. The Shelix is always in contact with the board at every moment in the cutting process, because of the spiral placement of the blades. That non-stop friction works the motor the entire time. That could be a contributor to the readings you got. 3. Another aspect of the warranty on equipment is a universal "umbrella" clause, which is "altering the equipment to any aspect outside of the manufacturer's specified design." That's why you got a "yes" on the warranty void question, both quickly by the first person, and after some confirmation by the second service person. The way DeWalt's lawyers would frame it would be this: "The DeWalt DW735 Planer is designed, calculated, and tested to operate with DeWalt specific parts under specific conditions. Changing out parts or accessories to anything not specified, tested, and approved for use by DeWalt alters the configuration that has been guaranteed for operation by the company; the company cannot, and will not approve or guarantee, or be held responsible for, any failure of equipment that has been operated with any such alteration." So even if someone at DeWalt told you that you could swap out parts yourself to whatever type of part you wanted to use, you would probably STILL run into issues with repair or replacement being covered under warranty. I haven't checked, but I wouldn't be surprised if Byrd has a disclaimer on their Shelix heads, warning consumers to check their warranty before installing their product, for that very reason. Thank you for the thorough overview and tests, I appreciate the detail and professional approach to your video.

[@michaelluciano8283]

The machine has a 15 amp motor which is OK to connect on a 20amp circuit . Electric code allows up to a connected load of 16 amps on a 20 amp breaker. If you are pulling 25 to 30 amps the breaker would trip before you got a 3 foot board planed even on a light cut. Something is not correct.

[@michaelluciano8283]

@@MJ-nb1qn what else is involved. Inrush current is not a problem.

[@wendellcarver9857]

Great Video tutorial. One way to determine actual pull or difference would be to measure the wood thickness before & after each cut to make sure they're cutting the exact same thickness. Just a consideration

[@rossprohaska6263]

Could we see you put a 12" subway sub through both of them and see what type of splatter spread you get on the back wall?

[@TheSnekkerShow]

White or wheat?

[@rossprohaska6263]

Rye...with plenty of spicy mustard and extra Mayo!

[@themightyparthos]

The first day the wife and the kids are out of school and here I am watching a toy.. Err tool review video... This stuff is like heroine to me as I now need another bump.. I also did not miss your complaint about having to get a redundant tool, Darn... Well at least I know what will be my birthday wish this year. Excellent video!

[@dgoddard]

Great info! I am really enjoying your videos and am wondering why you don't have a ton more subscribers (damn KZbin algorithm, probably). But anyway, you got a sub from me on the first video I watched. So I'm planning on binging the others here shortly. Oh, and I love your sense of humor. Keep up the good work!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Awesome, thanks for your support, and welcome to the channel.

[@mrdddeeezzzweldor5039]

Great and comprehensive review of both setups. I know of only one friend who switched to a SHELIX and he had mixed emotions on the planing enhancement over the obvious cost and power requirement issues. Thanks for the review and technical details. Now to find a stock-like blade with more longevity than DeWalt OEM.

[@csorrows]

It's actually illegal for them to not honor the warrantee due to using non-original parts unless they can prove it was at fault. They also can not void the warrantee if you take it apart and try to fix it yourself no matter how many of those "warrantee void if removed" stickers you damage or remove. They are only there as a deterrent.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Good information, thanks. I wonder if that varies by location or state.

[@csorrows]

@@TheSnekkerShow That's true in the states, not sure about other countries. Your actions can not be used as a basis to deny warrantee unless it directly caused the failure.

[@drboze6781]

That's the Magnuson-Moss Act, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act

[@Charo-ig5sh]

Much appreciated now I know what has been killing my breakers

[@JonDunnmusician]

Fascinating detailed video- just a heads up a year after buying my Dewlat planer the motor died smoke... end It had carbide blades from infinity cutting tools and not too much use

[@TheSnekkerShow]

That's still under warranty. You should contact Dewalt.

[@sonomafred]

Nice video, thanks! Regarding amperage draw, you may wish to measure the line voltage at your outlet. It can vary anywhere between 108v and as high as 127v depending on how far your house is from the utility company's point-of-connection transformer. With a higher voltage you can expect a lower amperage draw and, of course, vice versa. You may also want to check your breakers. You can almost arc weld with older Federal Pacific or Zinsco breakers and they won't trip, but most newer inverse time breakers will usually trip very quickly at amperage draws above 30 or 40 amps for 15 or 20 amp breakers respectively.

[@thehutchttu]

A 20A circuit breaker can sustain a 30A load for up to 2 minutes before tripping.

[@ORIVIER808]

No it has one job and it's gonna do it...

[@michaelluciano8283]

According to the charts a 20amp breaker will trip in less then one minute if the load is 25 amps. The 30 amp draw is 100% over the planer motor rating and there is no service factor. Even if the breakers, panel and machine held, you would damage the motor.

[@thehutchttu]

@@michaelluciano8283 Not sure which chart you were looking at, but I referenced the trip curve for a Square D 20A QO circuit breaker (Schneider Electric document number 730-3).

[@michaelluciano8283]

@@thehutchttu the breaker you referenced is a 20/30amp tandem breaker.

[@michaelluciano8283]

The breaker on the planer is a 20. Amp. Even if that held at 30 amps you are still overloading the motor. Do that a few times and you have a damaged motor.

[@michaellacaria910]

Great video, very informative. I’m struggling with my delay 735, planing poplar that may not be very dry and getting a lot of tear out, raised chips all over the boards, while searching for some advice I came across your video and was impressed with your testing and meticulous explorations. The peak current readings are definitely an eye opener and although hard to believe, the meters don’t lie. I believe some people may be confused with your readings and why the panel circuit breaker didn’t pop. The short answer is because you’re measuring current spikes not nominal steady state current. Circuit breakers all have a delay before they break, the old round fuses were called time delay fuses, used mainly in motor applications like when furnace motor started. The inrush current of a light bulb is up to 15x more than it’s steady state current. Motors have even more inrush currents. So, during a stressful cutting cycle there may be multiple spikes but ever so brief that it doesn’t even trip the breakers. Which leads me to say that a current spike is not necessarily indicative of using more power for the whole cycle. A more indicative comparison I think is to compare the average power usage per cycle instead of the current spike. I’m sure you thought of this and may have even mentioned it and I missed it. Thought I’d add my comments even if it’s 3 yrs later after making this video.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

The steady state current under a heavy load was not much lower than the peaks.

[@ancienttom97]

Thanks for bringing up the question of the Shelix voiding the warranty. I just bought a 735 myself and was considering upgrading it to a Shelix. With an answer to this question coming from the manufacturer of NO, I would expect that they would reject any service under warranty if it had anything but the blades the unit was sold with in it. Your personal viewpoint that the Shelix did not cause the failure is conjecture and very bad advice to your subscribers. While I agree with you about it being like replacing tires on a new car, the manufacture could argue that putting square tires on your car is what caused the suspension to fail and the motor to burn out from too much load. You did demonstrated in your video that the Shelix cutter heads can put a considerably heavier load on the unit to the point of tripping it's breaker on the machine. While it might make sense that the breaker on the unit is there to protect the motor from an overload issue, you might consider that DeWalt's argument might be that the long term effect of using the Shelix can cause accumulative excessive heat buildup in the motor and undue stress on the internal parts that drive the cutting head by repeatedly resetting the breaker and continuing the cut. While we all know that this would be a "cop out" argument, even if they couldn't demonstrate a history of failures due to using the Shelix, it's an argument that you would loose. Therefore, I would worry about voiding the DeWalt warranty without a guarantee from Shelix that they would back up any claim of machine failure due to excessive stress to the DeWalt planer caused by their cutting heads. As for me, I think I'll wait until the DeWalt warranty runs out before I try the Shelix.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

I think I did a pretty good job of distinguishing between the facts and my interpretation of those facts. It's a very popular upgrade, and I would think that if it was killing planers and voiding warranties you might hear more about that online. Of course, everyone has to decide their own level of risk tolerance. I'm glad the information helped with your decision.

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

for fucks sake, just put the old setup in there and lie about it. jesus mate, ive seen presidents escape with less scrutiny!

[@bingobango8777]

The instruction manual explicitly says helical cutter heads have not been tested and are not recommended.

[@savoielvis1]

I don t even have a planer, but i still watch the all video....nice job! thx!

[@davidlakous2546]

I just subscribed to help you pay for your second planner. Your awesome.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

You rock, thanks for your support.

[@cuebj]

29.45 if you're planing a lot of hard wood... you'd get a different planer. The DeWalt is very good on construction site for soft framing wood and similar. It can do hardwoods but doing a lot is job for a much heavier duty machine

[@Dave7208]

The breaker on the Dewalt is not necessarily a klixon or heat sensing device? If it is a current sensing device it could trip without heated motor? If it is a circuit breaker not a heat sensing device that would explain why it tripped and the motor wasn’t hot.

[@SamusAran1969]

100% correct

[@alexanderlabbe91]

does this mean more power with no loss in motor strain

[@Dave7208]

@@alexanderlabbe91 No. If it is truly pulling more amperage it basically means that the motor is slowing down and the internal impedance of the motor goes down as it goes slower and the amperage by ohms law goes up with lower impedance. My observation is this. The motor slows on impact and the amperage naturally goes up. To take a recording at this point does not represent what he thinks it does. The maximum recording should be taken after the initial impact of the wood in the planer not before impact. Some motors have overtemp devices that open when the heat in the motor goes above their setpoint. The reset on the front of the machine is not a heat sensing device, but essentially a type of circuit breaker that takes a few cycles of overcurrent before it is activated. These type of circuit breakers run at a 80% demand. example: a 20 amp circuit breaker is really designed for 16 amps of continuous running at that load. If (a) planer runs at over 16 amps for a period of time it will trip a 20 amp circuit breaker. We really don't know from this guys test what the actual running amps under load is. He just recorded the impact load in amps and it could easily been double of the running amperage. The motor slows slightly under impact and then as the instantaneous impact current goes up the motor gets more torque and tries to bring it up to speed. I am not quoting number but theory here. As the motor recovers speed the internal resistance of the motor goes up and the amperage goes back down. This is the point that i am trying to make. After the impact and the motor recovers impact speed loss then is when the maximum amperage reading should be taken. It still appears to me that the amperage is just over the threshold of the current rating of 80% and with time it will trip because of internal heating in the breaker itself, but not may not have been long enough for the motor to get hot. It will eventually get hot and isn't good for the motor, but that is another discussion. The button on the machined could care less about how hot the motor is. If you continue to reset it as soon as you can it should cause the motor to overheat. My feeling is just this, the helix cutter does draw more amperage and puts the motor on the verge of tripping if used for a period of time. That time is how long the breaker sees the overcurrent- designed into the breaker. The breaker is such that an instantaneous overcurrent (unless way over) it won't trip, such as starting the planer under normal conditions or impact. It needs further discussion. I personally think that if you have a board or two to plane and shut it off that you wont see a trip, but that is my assumption. Is it outside of the design parameters?, it would definitely appear to me that it is. My feeling is that if the planer is under normal load you would see an amperage of somewhere below 15 amps because the feedback I get is that people are running the planer on a 15 amp circuit in their garage. The helx probably adds a few more amps if you take out the impact readings. A motor on start up can run up to 7 times its normal amperage rating. It only draws that kind of amperage for longer if the motor is stalled. if it can't reach rated rpm the amperage will be higher depending how much the motor slows down. Some of this is within the parameters of the motor, but if it slows too much it will overcurrent and be hard on the motor . If a motor rated at 10 amps is started under no load it can draw upwards of 70 amps until the motor starts to rotate and it quickly goes down when motor reaches rated rpm. The examples I use are general for all types of motors. Some have more torque, but all draw more amperage as they start and will fluctuate under normal loads a bit which is normal operation. His test is not what i think it should show. If you insist on a helix head just be careful how long and hard you operate it. Best scenario is to stay with designed head. I am disappointed that Dewalt would design it that close to operating currents. Should have used a little more horsepower, but that may have required a special circuit to run it and that would make it less attractive to us home shop boys to buy. I hope i didn't lose you, but oh well you put a quarter in my nickel slot on this video.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

@@Dave7208 If you watch each pass, you'll see that some continue to go up throughout the cut and some don't. In some tests, the highest load was at the end of the cut when the lagging snipe hit. I picked the "max" approach for simplicity after verifying that the fluctuating average and the max were not significantly different for the purpose of the demonstration. I have a few other videos posted that show this as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6Clf2iJmMRlq80. That link uses the remaining oak 2x10 from this video, the same depth of cut, and no max setting, but with the planer's impeller removed so the reading is lower.

[@JonAimone]

Very interesting, and very informative. Thank you for taking the time and effort. You really need a storage scope to compare power draw over time rather than a meter that simply stores maximum spike. My guess would be the power spikes to get the heads up to speed when they engage the wood or when encountering a difficult portion of the wood, but nominal power draw throughout the operation is much lower.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

You're correct that the average would be a little lower. I set it to max for simplicity, but the fluctuations were pretty close to that range. You can see a couple passes without the max button pushed at the end of this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6Clf2iJmMRlq80

[@raveniskcrow]

Thank you so much for the time, expertise and wisdom. I know nothing about these machines but I am beginning my wood working journey. I considered the dewalt planner. I had never thought to challenge the amperage draw, label vs actual. This was a real eye opener. So it is not just the cost of the Shelix but the cost of electricity if you are a beginning diy hobby person. Thanks again!

[@TheSnekkerShow]

I'm glad it was helpful.

[@jameskringlee8974]

2 planers? use the "top half" of one attached to a "rig" that will allow the planer to move side to side and over the length of large slabs of wood to plane door and table sized pieces. I do think, based on what I could see of the the design of the DW735 in the store, that it is the right machine for that application.

[@kingdomadventures]

There's a possibility that the older motor, older belts, everything in the older unit, might have a little more friction, and little wear and tear, and that might account for some of the higher amperage draw. Couldn't convince you to switch the shelix and stock blade assembly in the two units and run the same test, could we? :)

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Tempting, but probably too much work. If anything, it might be in the milliamps, but probably not enough to significantly change the outcome of a test using a four-year-old planer from a hobby shop.

[@genebruce6321]

So the reason for the high current draw not tripping the breaker - they actually will trip, but it takes time. The board is through the planer before the trip time occurs. A 4x load will trip the breaker in about a second. A 15x load will trip the breaker really quickly. Breakers work through an element being heated by the current passing through them. After a certain temperature is reached - pop! I had to go find a Square-D trip curve for a residential 20A breaker. I learned something new.

[@MrWaterbugdesign]

2:00 You lifted that like it weighed 10 lbs...it's 90 lbs. Impressive.

[@clivesmith5604]

Hi I don’t know whether anyone has already suggested you take a voltage reading to see if you are suffering with “voltage drop” this could be a reason why the amps are high and the Units thermal cutout tripped. Test when off load and on load. I have a lager Axminster thickness & dust collector plus’s lighting running off a 16amp 230v uk SWA cable from diss-board with no problems Interesting vlog 👍

[@TheSnekkerShow]

It's been brought up, but I haven't done a voltage measurement yet. I think the bulk of the problem is three knives vs. the normal two for a portable planer, or the continous contact from the four rows of helical knives.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

I finally got around to testing voltage tonight. Starting with the original setup with a short 12-gauge extension cord, it was approximately 120v before starting the motor, 119v after, and dropped to 115v while planing 8” wide maple. Then I plugged directly in to an outlet right next to the breaker panel and got 120v, 119v, and 117v. There were some minor fluctuations between test sets, but those numbers are a good summary of the results. Amperage was maybe 1 or 2 higher using the extension cord, but still around 25-27 for both.

[@ronachin7444]

@@TheSnekkerShow 120V should be sufficient as most equipment is rated for 115V so the additional 'nominal' voltage helps. With this type of equipment (heavy relative load) higher voltages especially during operation where load is greatest (amps highest, voltage lowest) then capacitors can help but that get's into a bit of deep electricity that wouldn't be helpful to most.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

@@ronachin7444 Sounds like you know your stuff. Interesting thought about the capacitors, I don't think I've ever seen one on a universal motor, at least not big enough to be noticeable. Maybe they'll eventually start making these planers battery hybrids for an extra boost when you need it most. You might enjoy the video I'm uploading right now. Should be visible tomorrow afternoon.

[@ronachin7444]

@@TheSnekkerShow I'm talking capacitors at shop level at a panel(board as it's technically known) so that multiple tools would be supplied and lessen the effect on voltage drop which would reduce the amperage of any particular motor load. I'll keep opining on various comments and will contribute where I can. Nice work on your videos.

[@jimmccorison]

Bottom line, if you need to send it back for warranty service, swap the cutter heads and put the OEM one back in before sending it back. It's like a chipped car, swap the OEM chip back in before going to the dealer for any warranty work. Just make sure you use the OEM cutter head for a while before swapping in the Shelix head so it looks used.

[@ronachin7444]

B I N G O

[@terrysullivan1992]

I remember watching the first video. It was good. This remake is even better. Now I know to get the full size cutter head and also to upgrade the amperage on the planer circuit. Thanks for all your work.

[@TheSnekkerShow]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@joshuadavis1770]

Does it void the warranty? No because before you take it into service you would remove the Shelix head and put in the stock header (lol).

[@dante8506]

was about to buy a planer with this cutter head and this video was absolute gold to help me with my decision thank you very much.

[@A.Dude.]

Same here; get the Jet for about $150 more; comes with helix from factory...

[@EddyStyl3s]

I purchased a used Dewalt planer DW735 5 years ago for 450 with an extra set of blades. Did not spend any money on new blades or anything and sold it last week for 450. They do hold their value.

[@garybrandman6258]

Checking different planers & greatly appreciate your video packed with relevant info. Thank you very much.