If you've ever had to change a camshaft in-frame on a Chevy small block, this is a walk in the park. Awesome video, excellent quality. The Japanese porn joke got my sub.

How tight should I make the chip deflector screws? 1/8 turn past tight?

Is possible to fix this problem with dept-kontrol in any way? I buy yesterday this model and today seen your video 😢

so when i eat my fresh herbs they are full of chemicals.

I was on a waitlist for a TRA002 since November of last year. It was supposed to arrive may 1st. In early April, I received an email stating that the delivery date would be extended by 12 months. So, the retailer canceled all orders and completely removed the TRA002 from the product range. Now the TRA001 is my only option, and that for almost €400.

Instead of building guitars I am going to bake guitars

So, what is the cost if you had to replace the steal blade compared to having to rotate all the carbide cutters to a new edge to cover the same width? just to be fair. I get that you can change just one small gutter if that is all that is damaged compared to an entire blade if you cannot shift, just think that the full cost comparison should be made.

Same model dewalt as yours. The end and out feed tables out of the box were both higher at the ends. So you’re saying they should completely flat ?

That's a great video, I enjoyed it

it's not the batch. it's the production line and quality control at the factory. you just end triton my friend.

I learned a lot from this. Thank you 👍🏻

You're one of the only YT posters who has engineered a dust collection solution that truly confronts the issues inherent in practical use of a COMPOUND MITER SAW, as opposed to the grossly simplified challenge presented by a 90 deg. cutoff saw. As a professional finish carpenter faced with the need for such dust control over the entire range of the saw's miter and bevel ranges while working in clients' homes, I want to thank you! Your multi-faceted flap design and use of dust brush at the rear are particularly well conceived details. I intend to copy your design for my very next job. One tweak that comes to mind is to replace the bottom flaps with rubber sheet in lieu of the solid sheet material your cardboard mockup simulates. (BTW, decades of experience causes me to concur with your expectation that the cardboard mockup itself will last for years. For my jobsite purposes, cardboard's thin walls and light weight are very attractive characteristics, particularly if employed in a KD foldup version. I am considering 1/8" coated hardboard or plastic sheet to retain these features while adding longevity.)

That is pretty slick, great execution. I need to make an odd size 5/16" dowel as the 1/4" holes that I drilled came out oversized for the 1/4 dowel so I will chuck a short piece of 5/16" dowel in the drill press and use a block of wood and sandpaper to sand it down to 9/32" diameter dowel to be a tight fit in the holes.

Excellent presentation. As an old gear head, it’s all very familiar. But it’s very helpful to know what you can leave on and what needs removal.

This is a fabulous video! Just got a 735, put a level through it, and the feed tables are slightly raised. Had I not seen your video I would have been scooping out my boards with no clue why. Thanks!

Stanley/B&D has truly let the bean counters control the engineering of their products. First they buy and discontinue the Porter Cable Routers, then replace them with products that simply don't measure up to the requirements of tradesmen. I'll stick with my Porter Cable 7518. Of course, Stanley/B&D don't maintain many repair parts for it, but bearings are available from SKF, etc. and even the fan is now a "Dewalt" part, so despite their saying it's obsolete, you can still get parts. Mine has seen year of use and is still going strong.

Planer sled and hot glue can aid you in running small boards through it..I’ve done 4 inches but make sure it’s a good glue with plenty of holding strength..

Fantastic analysis, thank you!

WOW! I've been putting off buying a Helical cutter head out of fear of screwing up the install. You've given me the courage to continue. Thanks.

Dewalt has the entire current flowing through that switch going to the motor which I think is a really bad design. Microswitches aren't really designed for that.

Love the humor man!! Good job on the video. Thanks for making it!

I have the white side astra coated slab bit like the one you got there just with the coating. I find it struggles with end grain as well. What would you recommend? I need something that’s gonna slice through the end grain and will last

Good stuff, Thanks for sharing. I'm not a cat fan and after having dogs since I was a kid barking all day and now 50, I want some peace and quiet in my life, no loud dogs and no lound power washers. So maybe a Cat and a new Electric Power Washer for me 🤗 Good looking cat and great name for him or her? ECLIPSE ☺

While this method can be effective in restoring the color of wood, it is important to exercise caution as it may cause significant warping of the material.

I have not watched your entire video yet will in a minute. I do not have a 3D printer but I rented a 3 jaw puller from an auto parts store. Promptly broke the flanges off the hub also. So I have been using a 90 dremel cut off wheel, and a 4.5 inch angle grinder with a cut off wheel on it. Right now I am down to cutting off the impeller so I can cut the hub in half to get it off. I have discovered that mine is rusted around the shaft so will not move at all. Now back you watching how you get yours off.

Thanks a lot. I liked the story and the information provided! 👍

Very helpful.

If mandatory that the carbides are removed, why wouldn't they just sell it with the heads not attached the head? Seems odd they make everyone have to remove all 40 carbides?

I used total boat penetrating epoxy it's made for exactly that sealing off porous wood so as to not get air bubbles

Very interesting video!

One important thing I’ve learned in is, NEVER trust a man in sandals or flip flops. Lol😂

Havent finished vid yet but i was just thinking about this kinda thing as far as accelerated drying without pressure chamber on woods that check and crack easily, get it hot to get everything nice and flexible but dont let the moisture escape as fast as it wants to bare, so it can do most of its moving while the lignin is hot. As far as bugs and fungus goes even my oldest logs of red oak i have ( they spent probably just shy of 2 decades in the dirt) the heartwood is still in good condition, not perfect, softened a bit, obv the sapwood is gone. So just depends on if you need the sap and bark. But i could be wrong and only bit into the lucky pieces lol

The hard washers are likely scraf cut sealing rings.

I did a similar test. The thinned epoxy never hardened to more than silicone like substance which is not satisfactory to me as I need all the rigidity, strength and hardness I can get from my epoxy finish. Deep penetrating sealer - Yes. Surface coating for hard wearing protection - No.

I did a similar test. The thinned epoxy never hardened to more than silicone like substance which is not satisfactory to me as I need all the rigidity and hardness I can get from my epoxy finish.

Thank you. I can see that a lot of thinking went into this. Good job.

I have gone through many styles of these and last night I finally pulled the plug and bought the Amana countersink bits set. They have carbide cutters. I think my search is done.

By far, the easiest and most comprehensive installation video I’ve seen. Well done! (It took me 10:24 to remove the carbide inserts… how embarrassing!)

Simple answer, it depends on the job

Narrated by Nixk Offerman

great thanks for the video

I have a Makita and 2 oem pullies do not fit shelix shaft and depth of keyway is not correct and key does not fit. I brought to attention during warranty and manufacturer will not fix.

Lol a mask against a virus is like chicken wire against mosquitos. Glad the internet keeps receipts.

Although it did not take 4 hours to do, your advice on patients is by far the best value of your guide then any others! I also appreciated the recommendation to remove the spiral gear before removal. This is by far the best guide for this upgrade and 100% agree with all your arguments favoring the oem size replacement! Great job!

The noise difference seems entirely negligible and nowhere near as extreme a difference as people have claimed.

Thanks for a great video with looks inside the planer as wood passes through. Very informative and this ME appreciates the effort! How I attacked snipe on the same planer... I made a long bed from a piece of melamine and stiffened the board with square aluminum tubing attached to the bottom of the board on each side, leaving the center section clear so it can sit on the planer table. I wax the board periodically to reduce friction as the wood passes over it. This supports long boards as they run through, giving me time to dance around from the indeed to the outfield side of the machine to collect the board. This with properly flattened boards, (very important) virtually eliminates snipe. When the job is done I raise the cutter head and slide the portable bed out for storage.

When you pulled that cutter head it reminded me of pulling a cam shaft on an engine.

I love troubleshooting with a wiggie, but have been fooled a few times as they just register voltage, not how much.

I know this is a year old but I just wanted to say thanks as I just started getting into Routing and bits and learning a lot from you I made a routing table that clamps down to my workbench for my Smaller palm router but now I need a table for my new Real Router (Dewalt 616) Best regards, Rick

Still debating on the switch. Good video!