World's Best Moonboard Climber On Sandbagged Grades // Ravioli Biceps

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

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[@SimplyRockZone]

Sent 5 V9s outside before even sending a V6 on the mb.

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

😅

[@zacharylaschober]

0:50 One aspect of boards which I think those who argue grades never speak to is slight variation in the setup and "rules", and this is a high pad with a start which I don't do (granted because of who is doing the start I can easily concede my style of sit start is less correct). Neither of those invalidate his ascent nor opinion, merely I have been on Moonboards where the kicker is a few feet high and/or upraised pads and not all are precisely 40°, plus minor differences in holds and placements which can easily occur. Is always a problem of establishing problems on any system board is the assumption of "identical" rather than similar.

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

The difference in the kicker and the pad placements can be pretty big, and I think really obnoxious.

[@wayneoxborough351]

I'm in the group that doesn't think the Moonboard grades are so different to local outdoor grades, but most indoor grades are hopelessly soft. V3 - V5 is described as a beginner grade, but really, it isn't, at least here

[@bradymurphy1435]

Agreed, indoor V3 rarely has crimps but I’ve climbed V2’s outside that have 10mm crimps. It’s why moonboard translates well to outdoors, you gotta leave your ego at the door and just try hard

[@jacobraffee562]

I'm more of a beginner moonboarder (Project V5 Bencharks), and at that grade I feel like the 2016 moonboard is largely accurate so far to SoCal outdoor boulder grades. A few thoughts though: Moonboard difficulty varies widely within one grade, and outdoor grades change from region to region. Compared to Joshua Tree where I normally climb, I think the average 2016 moonboard V4 or V5 is right on with outdoor grades. The easiest few benchmarks are probably 1-2 grades easier, and the hardest are 1-2 grades harder. Part of what I like about the moonboard is that it feels very realistic and relevant to climbing here. I bet at harder grades is totatlly messed up sandbagged though ahah

[@LarryMarkel]

I can climb V5-V6 indoors, but get smoked on the moonboard even on V1s, granted i just tried it for the first time and I know my gym grades soft. I am 6'3 and the feet just feel so high that I basically feels like I cant use my legs for power properly. Anyways, going to try when im fresh and suck it up that Im on V1. Hardest grade ive done in SoCal outside is V0+ lol

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Different styles definitely affect the personal experience with grade. I climb v5 overhung, and v2 (if I’m lucky) on granite slab. But grade doesn’t matter all that much anyway - it’s important to build skills on a variety of terrain / styles 💪

[@crispycrimps865]

How can the moonboard help a lead climber?

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Get stronger and more powerful, makes cruxes easier, more gas in the tank to finish the route. I’ve been using the board once a week or thereabouts, for a year now, and have seen big improvements on sport routes.

[@crispycrimps865]

And on the days in the week you're not moonboarding, you're doing routes? Thanks for the reply, glad to hear it helped your sport climbing out!@@thestruggleclimbingshow

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Everyone responds a bit differently. But for me, I will do a power day (moonboard), and then the next day I will do an endurance day (submaximal route climbing, or Treadwell type stuff), and then I will rest a day. Also, typically on my power day, I will do some finger training and weightlifting as my warm-up for the moon board. and I don’t do a lot of volume at all, maybe 6 to 10 climbs with at least five minutes rest between each attempt) if you want more information on this, check out my episodes with Tyler Nelson, Ravioli Biceps, and a recent coach chat with Tom Randall. All on the podcast, wherever your listen to pods. Good luck with the training!

[@jarfrobinksss]

Of COURSE a moonboard is harder than outdoors - can't use friction

[@pepedalank]

What

[@Flaime69]

I don't climb super hard, but for my level, the moonboard feels a little soft. The v4-7's on the moonboard feel way easier than the same grades outdoors

[@SelcraigClimbs]

What hold set you using? I haven't tried anything other than the 2016 set and it feels accurate if not one grade sandbagged compared to the limestone climbing near Sheffield (the home of the board)

[@thicccboyztv]

A fair amount of v8 climbers have not completed all the v4 moonboard benchmarks.

[@Flaime69]

@@SelcraigClimbs I believe I'm using the 2016 set

[@lucaa4480]

​@@SelcraigClimbsI climb on the 16 and my max outside is v11 and on the moonboard the max is 7b+ (and I did one ahah) but on the moonboard I don't project a lot, max 2 session, but also outside 😅

[@Olopnogitron]

Are you referring to the benchmarks? IME, there can be a big difference in degree of sandbaggedness between the benchmarks and some random problem with 5 sends.

[@iclimbrocks100]

Why did you needlessly put his face on the side when his is clearly climbing in the center? And why is his mouth open? I dont think kids are watching this

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Most of my thumbnails show the guest up close and also an action shot so at a glance you can understand the subject. Sometimes it’s a guest photo but a different person featured in the action shot, depending on the topic. Thanks for watching!

[@lawsong6663]

Grow up mate its not a big deal

[@Kmilushev]

why are you crying over spilled milk

[@matt3645]

ok mom