They told me to try everything to get ASA to stick, so I did. Results are in!

[@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond]

I wanted to add yes I tried a brim as well. Nothing wrong with a brim, but it still doesn't increase tackiness of the filament to the bed

[@galkawarrior]

Thank you for sharing. My friend lent me his X1-C (a huge upgrade from an Ender 3 V2) to help me speed up my prototyping, I've had it for 1 week so far, and I've been printing Bambu ASA filaments (gray) with a 10mm diameter base. I had to use a brim for it, and adjusted the Support/object first layer gap to .01mm. I've upped the bed temp to 95*C, and changed the cooling setting to no cooling for the first 5 layers. I use the smooth side of the PEI, I use hairspray for adhesion (which I saw next to your IPAs), and I have had 99% success rate with my prints, even with a 4/5 AMS humidity level. I hope that helps.

[@open_world_media]

Did first ever Bambu ASA print today with P1S. Textured plate failed away at 30% due to adhesion, because I didn't remember to use the High Temp smooth PEI plate and glue I bought specifically for engineering filament. 2nd print worked perfectly with the roll on glue and PEI plus drying the filament at 70° for 6 hours

[@mitchellbernstein42]

I have 2 suggestions: 1. Try the Biqu Panda Cryogrip Glacier plate, 2. Wham Bam PEX plate.

[@x9x9x9x9x9]

I got a sample of that nano polymer stuff back in like 2019 or whenever it was that Joel did a video on vision miner and I love that stuff. I started using it for everything. I wish I knew what was in that stuff because its not cheap but at the same time I dont mind buying it because it lasts a long time. You can refresh it by using like 50% iso propyl to damp a paper towel and then just kinda wipe it around. Anyways not sure why this was in my recommended randomly but here I am and I am happy to see a product I use not just be a placebo for me.

[@HillWillE]

Vision Miner Nano is the way to go!

[@ThePkorn89]

FYI, ive only used polymaker ASA. 99% of the time it sticks. Used both textured and smooth plates with good results at 100C, when dropped to 95C it won't stick without glue. Highly recommend polylite ASA

[@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond]

Thanks for letting me know!

[@Roobotics]

First layer temps, speeds, and z-offset are also very specific parameters. Most don't realize that the whole plastic 'shrinkage' thing applies during the print itself and is the root cause of most layer adhesion, when build-plate cleanliness has been looked after, the hotter you print the more it shrinks(and then it shrinks more proportional to how cold you bed is, especially if you have it below the glass transition temperature!), so it delaminates off the bed, find a minimum viable first-layer temp for the nozzle. Your bed SHOULD NOT be far below the glass transition temp.. for PLA it's ~65c, for (pure)ASA it's ~100c. X1C is rated to go up to 120c for a reason. Also the SPEED at which you go influences more than most realize, by going slower first layer you are letting it relieve more stresses locally instead of building them globally by going fast and linking the pieces together is long spanning stretches that are left to cool to an equilibrium temperature of expansion all at once. For ABS I've often found that it really wants a bit of extra z-squish, usually ~0.12 - 0.15 for quality first layer adhesion. For higher temperature materials like PC and ASA, I'd imagine it's very similar.

[@tsilikasp]

I am having trouble following you but you sound like a genius

[@NunyaBiznuss]

I print with Polymaker ASA on my Bambu X1C with PEI textured plate. I use 100°C on the bed on first layer then reduce to 90° thereafter and have never had an issue with it not adhering. I do spray a light coating of Suave extra hold. Not sure how much that helps, but I suppose it could be a benefit.

[@eastcoast8435]

I only print in ASA, I keep the bed at 105-107 depending on how thick the object is. Seldom have to use anything but a clean plate, but sometimes use a little hairspray, and a brim for more difficult pieces. No part cooling except for bridges.

[@HillWillE]

I use the same printers and same plates on all of them. Use Polymaker ASA exclusively and bed temp @100c. I usually bump bed temps on my Bambus by 10 degrees when I use a textured build plate as well. When I have adhesion issues I wash the bed in hot water and dish soap. The Vision Miner Nanopolymer always works as well! Also didn't see you mention but keep the door closed.

[@GavinK-42]

Thanks for sharing this! It was probably beginner's luck, but I had great luck on my P1S with my first 2 spools of FlashForge ASA (blue and white) using Kroger purple glue stick. Bed was at 100 and the hot end at 260. Haven't had any ASA or ABS (Hatchbox) warp off the plate yet. I did purchase that same Nano like you did but while waiting for shipping, I tried the glue stick. I'll shift over to the Nano either when I run out of glue stick or things stop sticking. One interesting thing when I wash my build plate... I used to dry with a freshly washed dish towel. But PLA stopped sticking. Think I figured out that we dry our laundry with a dryer sheet, and maybe that was affecting the adhesion. I now dry the plate with Bounty, and the PLA is back to sticking again. Maybe a coincidence.

[@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond]

Thank you as well. Do you remember if the purge strip feels tacky at all on that FlashForge ASA when you pull it off the build plate? I was trying to gauge a filament issue based off just that. when I go to pull PETG-CF off its nice and tacky, this Bambu ASA isn't even attached lol. I probably won't be buying the Bambu ASA again. Who knows maybe I got a bad batch. Thanks for watching

[@GavinK-42]

@@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond Can't answer that question... I was a bit paranoid about that purge strip coming loose and ruining the print, so I glue-sticked that area of the bed too! Printing since 2018 (MonoPrice Select Mini V1), but new to an enclosed printer, and being able to print filaments like ASA/ABS.

[@cameltoast]

I think its the texture PEI, I have better luck with a smooth bed and glue stick. I dont like the uneven texture glue stick leaves on the bottom but its better than a warped or failed print. I run the bed at 105C and the filament between 250-270 depending on the part and speed.

[@gavinlikesbikes]

I had heard only great things about ASA- “It’s ABS but better!” I print a lot with ABS so I was eager to try it. I have found ASA to be worse than ABS in most respects. I tried both Bambu and Polymaker ASA on my X1C. I had adhesion issues and MASSIVE warping issues (much worse than I ever have with ABS). Tried tons of setting, bed adhesives etc and then gave up. ABS (mostly Bambu brand at this point) works great for me so I’ve just stuck with it. Big fan of the new ABS-GF as well.

[@CMDR_Shokwave]

But, did you try unplugging it and plugging it back in?

[@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond]

best comment. Thanks for watching

[@billbyrd9845]

I've been printing for a while now. There's probably nothing that anyone could tell you that you haven't already tried. But, just for the record, I have found that while using a PEI plate there is a direct correlation between adhesion and heat. If I have an adhesion problem, I can either use the grammar school glue sticks (works just fine), or, increase the bed heat. Having said all this, I've not yet printed ASA. I doubt that a brim or raft would adhere any better than the model. For cleaning, there doesn't seem to be any advantage to using anything other than dish soap and water. Cleanliness to the point of being sterile simply isn't necessary and I'm very glad to know that because I went down that rabbit hole many times before I realized than clean enough is clean enough. More heat and/or glue of your choice. PS: My purge strips nearly always lift right off. That's the nature of PEI: when it cools it lets go. Thanks for your feedback. I'll order some of that glue.

[@jeffmiller6171]

I had that problem and changed to an engineer plate with glue. It worked fine.

[@civy9962]

It says on the product page that it needs glue.

[@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond]

yes I forgot to mention I tried that. it seemed to help but that was a false alarm as it didn't even finish a benchy. also forgot to mention I tried the smooth plate. I should have wrote everything down as there was so many suggestions I forgot to mention them all haha. Thanks for watching

[@civy9962]

@@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond Looks like you tried all that can be expected, sucks when you have to waste half a roll just get a decent print from it. I'll be giving Bambu ASA a miss, I've already done the hard miles and now just want things to work out of the box :)

[@mrmidnight32]

I thought ASA was supposed to be the easy print ABS

[@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond]

prints fine when it actually sticks? printing and adhesion 2 different topics. That is why I cancelled some of those prints once it got to a certain point. the adhesion was more of an issue than how it was actually printing. Thanks for watching

[@mrmidnight32]

@@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond idk all the KZbin video I watch people swear ASA is the easier to print ABS. With adhesion and print quality. I’ve never used either. I’m just saying that’s what people swear by

[@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond]

@@mrmidnight32 if others are getting better adhesion with the same filament and build plate then maybe I got a bad spool. it would be pointless comparing other brands/build plates though if that's what they are using. I can only tell you how mine is working here in this configuration. I stated everything I was using when I had asked for help. due to the wide variety of answers, I assumed there is something inherently wrong with this filament, there shouldn't be laundry list of things to try if an easy print?? that is why I tried everything suggested and posted what worked for me

[@mrmidnight32]

@@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond if you get this figured out post an update. I’d love to see if you get this resolved. Maybe see about contacting Bamboo and see about a replacement spool. I was interested in ASA over ABS but this video has me concerned now lol

[@whatsup3d]

I'm using Elegoo ASA and the Dark Moon Satin build plate in my BBL X1C and haven't had any issues. (110 first layer, 95 for hte following layers)

[@BasilFawlty64]

gluestick

[@curtisnewton895]

and they say asa prints better than abs what a load of shit

[@3DPrintingNowAndBeyond]

It prints OK, just doesn't stick worth a damn. Thanks for watching