Think Twice Before Buying Reusable Air Filters: Here is Why

Good ole regular Motorcraft air filters are your best bet-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
If you find the MAF dirty clean it with this kit only-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009...
In this video I go over why I will never using cleanable air filters. Instructions on how to clean the MAF properly can be found Here-
• How To Clean A Mass Ai...

[@Codysummerlot1]

I own a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD and I installed a Banks Ram Air intake system at around 120,000 miles. I clean and oil the filter every 12,000 miles and I enjoy showing people the odometer reading whenever I can. Just passed 480,000 miles and it still runs and sounds brand new! I average 18 mpg. Proper maintenance is key with the reusable filters.

[@dillonridling7192]

i will 100% agree with you that and make sure it is the proper filter for your model i have had mine on a truck with just over 100,000 miles but it has spent 90% of its life on dirt working on a farm you pop the hood on the truck and its all dust but when you pull the filter out it looks brand new behind it and i clean the filter and reoil it every 10,000 miles and it looks like just mud coming out the filter

[@sinuemedina2550]

How do you clean a K& N filter?. I have it on my 18 1500 chevy but i think its ready for a clean up

[@agger838]

@@sinuemedina2550 buy k&n recharge kits from auto parts store and follow directions or watch video

[@t_c5266]

do you also show them that you have to add a quart of oil with every gas fill up?

[@wayfastwitey13]

never had any problems out of any of my k&n filters, or the aem dry filter on my 7.3.

[@brianandrews7099]

Automotive manufacturer’s engineers don’t design what is the best and most long lasting; they design what is cheapest and most cost effective to manufacture. As long as it survives until the end of the warrantee, it is considered to be a successful design.

[@jfamousmsbc]

Lol so true

[@MrJesse1479]

Designed obsolescence

[@MrJesse1479]

@@Paper.Power.Politics designed obsolescence

[@markymarknj]

There are other considerations too. The big one is gov't emissions regulations; car companies and their engineers have to keep that in mind and design the car so it'll meet those regulations. Uncle is a BIG DRIVER behind what car companies do!

[@cschym2705]

As a retired automotive engineer, you are correct except parts are designed to survive 100k or even 250k not just to warranty.

[@dougr5051]

I installed a K&N filter on my new 99 Suburban. Almost 18 years later, It now has 403K miles on it and it has never required engine work. I think I cleaned that filter maybe five times since I put it in. I remember thinking I could tell a difference in acceleration after installing, but maybe that was all in my mind. In any case I think it's best to keep an open mind and try things to see what works best for a given situation. I started using K&N in the mid 80's because i did a lot of river crossings and K&N allowed me to keep going while the filter was pretty wet; paper would never hold up in that situation.

[@Chief_5]

Used K&N for years, on my used Dodge Charger from 50K to almost 200K, never had an issue with cleaning it.

[@staywokenblood]

Fr same I've had it on my 2003 Silverado

[@Icutmetal]

Ever have your oil tested?

[@m6071]

This is use case dependent, hitting the DUNES, paper filter will work much better. The only time I experience this was due to a very dry couple of months in Texas, I was driving through training area gate at Fort Hood to go to my apartment about 30 miles away. During that couple of months, I noticed sand particles when I was doing a check about 1000 miles into my oil change before a trip.... Every time I check the oil I will remove the oil cap and just stick my finger in (while off and engine is cold) and just rub the lip in the valve cover look at it for sheen (metal, goop water/coolant, particles (dirt/sand). When I did this I saw grit non metal, but was indeed sand. Immediately changed the oil. Went on my trip, came back changed it again and never had an issue. That was the only time I experienced anything like this. I have used this (on road/track applications and never experience dirt or sand or anything else, but once. From Michigan to Texas. But I would agree after market dry performance filter would make sense in a very dusty or sandy environment for sure.

[@hondaguyrr5132]

Did you drive it on dirt roads? No ? Didnt think so

[@Phantom096]

If u drive on dirt roads or lots of dust like construction, snow, heavy rain I would use the paper filter. If u are on clean streets and highways I see no problems with the K&N style cold air intakes. Always have 2 filters so when u clean one and let the oil dry u are covered. Do not over oil and give plenty of time to dry before use.

[@williamcarper1973]

I am a Ford retiree who started my career with Ford at Cleveland Engine Plant 1, 'Home Of The 302', in Brookpark, Ohio. I personally have used K&N air filtering products in Ford vehicles since 1986, when I installed one in my first Mustang GT(also had an '88). I've since used them in an '89 Escort GT, A '90 Ford Ranger, a '93 F 150 Lightning, a '96 Bronco, 2001 and 2003 Ranger pickups. A 2004 Mercury Marauder( complete K&N cold air intake on the Marauder), An '04 F 150 Lariat, an '07 Expedition XLT, and most recently, a used 2008 Taurus X Limited, which I bought to keep from running miles up on the Marauder, which after 11 years, still has only 36,000 miles on the odometer. I won't own a Ford vehicle without installing a K&N filter in it. From my own experience, a K&N air filter will provide better airflow with 35,000 miles of dirt, than a brand new paper filter, regardless of the paper filter brand. And I've NEVER had a dirty intake, downstream of the installed K&N air filter, on any of my vehicles! An internal combustion engine is basically an air pump, and the very best paper filter made, will only serve to choke a high performance engine, and restrict it's ability to breath. Never install a K&N air filter on a Ford vehicle with any series EEC module without first disconnecting the negative battery terminal for, at the very least, an hour. You won't see any horsepower, or fuel efficiency gains unless you perform this simple task. Doing so allows the EEC module to dump all of it's factory settings(presets), and, in effect, re-boot the EEC. This in turn allows the system to 'sense' the increased air flow from the K&N, and adjust itself accordingly, when you reconnect the battery, and start the engine. AND REMEMBER: NEVER DISCONNECT THE POSITIVE TERMINAL FIRST! THERE IS A HIGH RISK OF FRYING YOUR EEC MODULE IF YOU DON'T DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FIRST! There is, in fact, no good reason to even disconnect the positive battery terminal for this procedure. Try it! You'll see an improvement. Don't have an opinion on K&N oil filters... Never used one!

[@broken1965]

William Carper agree people are recharging/cleaning them wrong

[@nikiD1982]

William Carper hi there. I have 2010 focus 1.6 tdci 109 bhp and today i changed the stock air filter with a kn in the box filter. Immediately the turbo boost went from 1.1 as usual ( i have a boost gauge), to 0.7 , with full throttle. It spiked now and then to 1.0 but the engine eventually went into limp mode as boos was not passing 0.5 with full throttle. Did not perform that reset but instead changed back to stock filter and everything is back to normal. Any ideas why this happened

[@bunberrier]

William Carper IDK how their oil filters measure up vs other brands but the K&N's I buy for my motorcycle oil changes have a hex head formed into them at the top which is real handy for obvious reasons. 3/4" or some such. Much easier to use than those band type grippers that slips over the filter.

[@krismoore5558]

resetting trims not needed on a modern car, its all metered air.

[@BikeRider1956]

Thanks for the tip on sequence of removing negative & positive battery cables. I've used K&N for decades! Lots of opinions without scientific facts to back up claims. Not slamming Poster because I like his videos.

[@JBenedetti1978]

Good info. The only reason I installed a cold air intake on my truck was because the fender housing was always crammed with leaves that I couldn't clean out without taking apart the fender. I like the ease of installation and for what K/N charges versus paper filters, it has paid for itself tenfold. If oil is on the MAF or in the tube then too much oil is being applied. It needs a very light oil coat. Love your videos, thanks for what you do.

[@strumpeteer]

I gave a reuseable high flow and oiled air filter a try being used in my car for two years. I realized that I lost low end torque with that filter because when i changed back to a paper filter after two years, I noticed a significant increase in my front end torque according to the seat-of-my-pants dyno.

[@Kingkev0]

Same

[@mds19238]

REF: K&N air filters As a retired GM tech, I can state tell you that no one with any real 'drivability' experience would ever use a "oiled cloth" filter on a daily driver. Lest you think you got all the smarts and want your "oiled cloth" filter come hell or high water, Google up NICO Air filter test and learn about real test on numerous filters and the results that can be duplicated with zero BS excuses. K&N falls to the bottom of the list. I was surprised at how well AC Delco performed. By the way, I now drive a F150 (cause I love the 2000 flareside body style) and have no reason to promote any one brand over the other. Educate yourself and stop regurgitating all the promotional BS from the scammers.

[@HorsepowerHouse]

Yep, these fancy air filters are nothing but show that people can brag upon what they have done to their car. When, really, they don't do much of anything as far as true performance improvements or mechanical longevity. In fact, they give people more crap to do if they actually maintain the filter properly. When they could just use a regular old paper air filter like cars have been using for a million years, and they work just fine - for a lot less money. But because people can't brag about that, it means it's "not good" for their car. I guess that's what many people think. But we obviously know the truth. It doesn't matter if it harms the engine or not. It is a pointless waste of money. And that is the absolute truth. The same goes for those stupid cold air intakes. What, are they refrigerated? No. It's sending the same type of air into your manifold just like anything else would. But people can't brag about a normal air intake either. And dudes just love to brag about stuff. Even if it cost them a bunch of money, but really does nothing as far as true Improvement or mechanical longevity.

[@bigospig]

Over 20 years using K&N air filters in ALL my vehicles and I have never had an issue with MAF sensors because I follow the K&N directions. I've yet to hear a K&N hater who actually used one.

[@Tater79bj]

I've got 240,000 on my 2000 Silverado and the k&n was installed at 29,000. I changed the intake gaskets at 220,000, and saw no dust, dirt, or oil buildup inside. There were no real performance gains felt when I first installed it. It was mainly a financial decision, to save on buying filters. I understand that results may vary from make to make, but I have been more than pleased over the years. The way I see it, if you are in tune with your vehicle, and keep up on maintenance, you would know very quickly if a filter is causing issues. However, I know that most folks are not "car guys" and know very little about how their vehicle functions besides putting gas in it. I recently purchased a 01 Taurus with bad headgaskets to flip. Searching KZbin for instructional videos on the job, I found your channel. I want to thank you for your extremely detailed tutorial. This is my first Ford in over 15 years, and my have things changed! However, I am confident that I can see the job done, and done right after watching your video. Thanks again for making this video, it was insightful and well done. I was unaware of the issues that you covered. When I complete a full service on the Taurus, it will not be getting a K&N as previously planed. Keep up the good work, I will continue to watch for new videos :)

[@fliguy41]

Ive run a K&n cold air intake with metal tube for few years and it has made a huge difference for my engine

[@billybassman21]

I have used K&N filters for years and never had any problems. To get horsepower gain you need to reprogram the computer or use a chip. Paper filters clog very quickly and this is where the K&N is better. K&N and other washable filters do let more dirt in when they are new or after they are cleaned. The oil is supposed to prevent this. It does help a lot, but not enough. However once you have been using it for a few hundred miles, the filter gets enough dirt on it to prevent this. After 3 to 5 thousand miles, the K&N will do a better job of keeping dirt out while still maintaining its airflow than a paper filter. In the long run with proper maintenance, the K&N will keep the inside of the intake system cleaner and will maintain horse power. Do that test again with the hotrod car, but use a paper filter that has been used for a couple of thousand miles. The K&N will likely be on par or better.

[@hanskinslo326]

Thank you SO MUCH for telling everyone about the aftermarket filters like K&N. I'm so tired of people saying they put one on their vehicle and got more power & better fuel economy - bull crap.

[@Lonewlf7676]

One thing you can do if you are running an aftermarket oilable filter and are concerned about particulates coming through is use a pre-filter. This could be something of a foam variety, but from what I have been told from people that were there, The Army ended up using ladies nylons (yes, chunks of pantyhose) stretched over their vehicle air filters in the desert to keep the fine sand from clogging up the works and ruining the engines.

[@lowellwhite8810]

Winner, winner, chicken dinner. Thank you. i was trying to figure out how to prefilter mine with window air conditioner foam but your way is way more useful.

[@wcurtin1962]

I have used a K&N filter on my 94 Ranger since it had 2000 miles on it. It currently has 229000 on it with the same K&N. The throttle response was much improved by the K&N.

[@killaurnext]

I think it depends on a vehicle by vehicle basis. Ideally a non-oiled high performance filter would be the way to go that's a tight fit. No gaps as they showed in this video between the filter and intake housing.

[@bongodave13]

@@killaurnext That was a crappy, off-brand junk filter. All the dust in the intake was caused by the poor seal. A real K&N would have a nice, tight fit.

[@imssgmiller]

I run KN intakes on all my vehicles, I also tune them and replace the stock MAF. It's night and day difference. I also clean and service it properly never have anything but a clean intake tube. To me more horsepower, mpg, and higher top speed is worth the extra money.

[@EVRY1STFU]

In 2008 I installed the K & N filter in NM on my 2008 F150 5.4L. After few months I noticed a fine streak of dust buildup on the curve of the intake tube nearest the intake manifold. I contacted K & N customer support and they refused to answer questions after I provided pictures. Since 2008 the truck has lived in AK, LA, NM again and now in VA. The last two times I cleaned the intake tube and the throttle body housing it seems to me there is a lot of fine dust buildup. Overall, if you routinely maintain the filter and re-oil correctly you may not have long term issues. Brian's point is simple, use a good quality filter that will get the fine/microscopic dust. I'm now in the process of going back to stock. Good video...I'll take experience over armchair QB's any day.

[@dildobaggins069]

I have a k&n on my prius. now before you laugh I put it on to keep things clean and to boost mileage. I gained about 3 mpg give or take. also I have never had an issue with the MAF or it being dirty and the throttle body is bright and clean still after many years

[@betitos007]

I call BS on anyone who says they've had issues with aftermarket intakes. I've had intakes on two of my vehicle since new and never had issues. One has been installed for over 12 years and no issues at all. The other is only a drop in filter not the whole intake for over 2 years and also zero issues. Just maintain it regularly and it breathes better especially with a low restriction exhaust.

[@187WCB]

My '07 Focus came used with a K&N intake and filter. MAF sensor is squeaky clean (cleaned 10k ago) idles normally. I oil it at the recommended intervals. I think if installed and maintained properly, they do a fine job.

[@mnrodriguez]

Agree! I Just spread a little oil only on the very top of the external crowns (as instructed), there is NO way this oil move anywhere else. I have used them for years, never had a problem. This is my experience for more than 12 years in the same car (Honda CR-V, 2009), it runs like the very first day!!!

[@e.b.6766]

Had to watch the video again as I am about to purchase a CAI. Was on the fence on whether to purchase a dry, or oiled, filter. This video helped on making my decision. Thanks Brian.

[@bugablue]

I agree that an aftermarket intake does nothing. I remember years ago on a Mazda 6 forum guys were running a cold air intake with a larger diameter runner from the filter to the throttle body, and the MAF sat in this runner. Engines were running lean after they installed the new intake, so they would get the MAF re-calibrated to bring the afr back into check. Common thought was they were getting so much more air, they needed more fuel now so obviously they were making more power! Actually what was happening is the larger diameter runner created less velocity within the runner and the MAF read this as less air with the same throttle position. Then it would lean out the mixture to compensate. People spent a whole lot of money and hacked apart their cars for nothing.

[@fastst1]

Indeed, the re-usable filters may seem like a great idea but I believe it was Cummins that did a test and it showed that switching from a paper filter caused a significant increase in silica in the oil samples as well as signs of increased engine wear compared to the paper filters. For offroad, a big paper filter seems to be the best idea. More flow will help only if the paper filter is causing a restriction. Even a pretty filthy paper filter on my diesel won't trip the restriction gauge. Filter flows far more than the engine can use.

[@richarcm]

I'm not familiar with all air filter systems or all cars but there is PLENTY of historical evidence in dyno pull after dyno pull for decades upon decades of Mustangs that proves that a quality reusable filtration system, when oiled properly and tuned, is worth additional power to the engine. Because most sports cars are built from the factory to obtain numbers that allow it to meet certain government standards. Then we tinker with them and try to get them to breathe in more air and burn more fuel. Larger and more straight paths for the air to travel to the intake create more power.

[@theyetti-4045]

richarcm yes indeed but your key word wich makes you right is tuned. Most people throw in the filter and expect to have a ferrarie like car after. Lol

[@ozzstars_cars]

Great video. For years I have been saying to car buddies the 'k&n' style filters are a waste of money, min. performance gain (if any) and filter air like dog crap. Thumbs up for telling it like it is!!

[@curlymike6103]

Well, of course you're going to recommend the Motorcraft products. I have never had an issue with a K&N product.

[@FloorItDuh]

I've had no problems with my K&N cold air intake. Then again it's the plastic tube and draws air from the fender. I also clean it like I'm supposed to and do a very light coat of oil. I've had no issued with over 5000 miles on it. The day I put it on in combination with my magnaflow catback exhaust I noticed a definite increase in acceleration.

[@HorsepowerHouse]

Spending a bunch of money on your vehicle will make you think that there is going to be some sort of performance gain. But did you actually take it to a dyno test? Probably not. Something that just sounds good and looks cool does that mean it actually runs better. We will all make ourselves believe something is true just because we spent a lot of money on it. Maybe your previous exhaust was clogged and clapped out, and you could have just replaced it with the stock one. But we men refuse to do such simple things.

[@richardtrowell8812]

Anytime you increase airflow and gas you gain performance. Increase the airflow more particles possibly getting into the engine. I drive several hundred miles a day and using a K&N air filter does increase horsepower but like all things nothing dramatic yet noticeable. In a dusty environment an oily filter does not make much sense. A proper fitting dry filter does. All mechanics would prefer leaving everything stock unless they are into racing or pushing limits on performance. Each modification adds stresses to the engine. Address those stresses and all will end well.

[@icin4d]

Years ago when I bought a K&N (cotton/oil) filter I also bought the stock paper version (Motorcraft) and datalogged both on similar wot pulls. I too was skeptical. I consistently logged higher MAF counts with the K&N pulls. And the counts' deacceleration rate was less as RPMs increased - an indicator of decreased restriction. This was on a mildly blown 2002 Mustang.

[@kennethcohagen9037]

I took a long time for manufacturers to consider cool air intake systems for OE filter housings. Older cars had no provision for this and I always found a way to plumb cool air to my cars filters. It's nice to see that manufacturers have caught up to 1960's performance technology!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I know right

[@atsernov]

+Kenneth Cohagen Older cars had no previsions for cool air? How old? All the 80s cars I've had drew their air from behind the sealed beam headlights, the grill, or between the fender gap. All of which would be fresh, cool air.

[@kennethcohagen9037]

+atsernov I was talking about cars older than that. A few cars in the 60's and 70's had hood scoops or ram air, but most drew air from under the hood. I would get rid of the under hood insulation right away because in AZ you don't need it and it traps hot air under the hood. Then, there were a couple of air cleaners available the ran hoses out in front of the grill. They didn't have a heat barrier between the battery and the engine either. Chrysler started putting a cold air box around their batteries in the late 70's. Now everyone does something to keep batteries cool. And the cool part is that all these improvements and more were driven by hot rodders!

[@imssgmiller]

KNN intake and aftermarket MAFs on most all my vehicles. Since I clean my filters every oil change like my ATVs you could see an example of it done right. I also gained at least 12 plus horse. Which requires a good tuner, less restricted MAF and intake.

[@GMfanatic]

For oem motorcraft is actually above bar. Definitely recommend their oil, air and fuel filters.

[@caleb234]

I've had a K&N on my Ford truck for 10 years. No MAF sensor problems, no dirty intake etc., if you are having these problems 1) you are over oiling the filter 2) clean the MAF sensor every time you clean the filter.

[@theyetti-4045]

Caleb if you are over oiling to the point where your maf is getting oily get a real mechanic to do the job cause this is hard to achive in vehicles i can see this for a bike at 13500 rpm or a really high rpmd car. But im not to big into cars ive driven 2 in my life im a truck guy and this is really hard considering in most trucks at top rpm in second gear will produce ruffly around 12.5 mile per hour air flow wich is not enough to take the oil to the sensor unless if it was so overoiled it was leaking oil from the filter.

[@markm0000]

I get a new paper air filter every year when I do a thorough preventative maintenance over my entire car. It takes a few days to get everything done right and spotless but it feels like a new car afterwards.

[@joshnc101]

Over oiling a filter and improper cleaning causes the MAF to get fouled up. Not just a K&N thing, it goes for all aftermarket CAI's that use oiled filters. I have a JLT CAI on my Mustang, following a strict procedure of how and when to clean the filter, I have yet to see any oil collect on the MAF sensor.

[@theyetti-4045]

No it does not the sensor has a burn off fase when its starts up the vehicle air box is not the cleanest environment so your maf will always be exposed to contaminations thus why the sensor will heat up at start to burn this off before returning to normal all so fast you wont even notice it with out a computer. Other then that the oil just simply will not contaminate the maf and even if it did you do know that those things will still work the only way they fail is deliberetly causing damage or a faulty occurence has happened ex short in conductivety when you see this happen record it and how you did it cause youll most likly be the first

[@jglapp]

I have heard that the oiled filters can reduce air flow when initially installed because they need to be broken in first (ie the oil needs to thin out). However, after that, they usually provide better air flow, and they are tested to pass procedure ISO 5011. Albeit, it is probably better to use a dry filter to prevent oil from coating any sensors.

[@edwardthayer9386]

Alot of people just made comments but evidently didn't watch the video! That's really sad grown men act like that!🤦‍♂️

[@GeneralNOH]

I did watch the video. It was purely opinion/anecdotal and even the anecdotes were lacking any sort of detail lol. "a muscle car"😂 The biggest issue with reusable filters is that some people dont maintain them properly. In saying that, there is very little reason for 95% of cars to run anything besides the stock air filter. Even though its reusable it takes quite a while to recoup the costs of something like a k&n filter

[@Bigbacon]

as with anything car, proper maintenance is all that is needed. If you do the maintenance on the K&N filter it will do the job.

[@jldude84]

I didn't buy my Spectre intake for the increased power, I bought it because it amplifies induction noise significantly and I love that shit.

[@gaylandbarney2231]

anyone remember oil bath filters ? cheap ( easy to build , actually) and effective one time purchase , w/ minimal maintenance ,oil changes

[@AnthonyJ350]

Can we argue that for arguments sake K&N filters cause issues due to improper maintenance? Also isn't the claim with a K&N that it doesn't necessarily out flow a NEW paper filter but it maintains flow as it gets dirty while the paper version will usually drop CFM as it clogs up. We've only used reusable filters but I totally understand where you're coming from, interested in your opinion on my comment, thanks.

[@glehman01]

Easy then, don't tell me what to do with mine though, I paid for it, have driven he last 2 about 200,00 each, the 2001 went 240,000 plus before Trans problems, wife is still driving 2008 with 200,000 + . I think they are better than paper filters, and I've had no problems ever from the first one I installed on the 2001 F-150, 5.4 . Nothing in my experience relates to the problems some people attribute to them. I'm thinking it's more related to poor maintenance. I change oil/ oil filter in both my wife's and my truck every 5000, Air filter cleaning is part of that maintenance, clean it, oil it, let any excess drain of, re install. Never a Problem.

[@nighthawk0077]

glehman01 K&N filters are easily good for 30,000 miles

[@jameskee2412]

I Have been running a K&N in my F-150 for the last 150K+. My intake looks nothing like the one he's shown here. You could eat out of my intake. As far as the dirty air filter... You've never seen a dirty air filter if you haven't seen a paper filter get as clogged as the K&N. Simple as that. I've seen paper filters so clogged with dirt that it was amazing the car could start, and I've even seen one that straight up wouldn't start.

[@slickstrings]

For everyone that is unsure, or sure about something incorrect, i found lab tests for K&N filters vs factory paper filters. They tested the filters by measuring airflow over time through the filter and releasing measured amounts of different sized dirt particles into the air stream. The results were not so surprising. The K&N air filters stopped far less dirt. They only trapped dirt down to a certain size. The factory filters trapped much smaller dirt particles. The other interesting thing was, the K&N filters clogged FAR quicker than the factory filters. Basically, its a no brainer. The K&N filters are higher flow because they stop less dirt. Thats the trade off. If you go and check all the tests that guys like mighty car mods have done, they have shown unless your car is super highly modified, there is no power advantage of having one over the factory setup. Especially if you have the filter sucking in hot air in the engine bay. You will lose power. Waste of money, waste of time, increased engine wear. Send some oil to a lab and see how much silica and aluminium is in your oil. Good chance you can thank your K&N.

[@jameskee2412]

slickstrings who is they? And why don't you send links to share such lab tests? The argument that someone else has already made that they flow more because of material is still valid. It is a fact of physics that cotton will flow more air than paper. You can test that one yourself by simply wearing a paper t-shirt. Not that you'll find a paper t-shirt...

[@frankardos4211]

I understand any given situation can go bad, but I honestly JUST cleaned my 7 year old K & N filter and the MAF sensor as well and ONLY the filter had some dirt and small dust particles on it.(visibly) I also went a little long in between cleanings this time which was about 3 years(I know,way too long) where as I like to do it every year. This filter has worked marvelously for me, IMHO. I do believe that over oiling and other errors may occur with other set ups though. You do make valid points my friend. Peace and God Bless you. By the way, I LOVE my 93 Lincoln Mark VIII for the record, which is the car I'm speaking of.

[@JB-jb5vy]

I switched back to my own intake after watching this video. when I took off the short ram I noticed a lot of grease and dirt coating my throttle body and inside the short ram tube, my air sensor got it too. I had the short ram on for about 20k....do u think it did damage. also my OEM air box was dusty when I installed it I forgot to clean it... again will this harm the engine? Car is 2010 civic 1.8L with 100.000k on it, car is currently running smoothly.

[@gonedeep43]

I have to respectfully disagree with your assessment of K&N filters. My 2000 Focus Has 266,000 miles on it and for around 260,000 of its life, it's known nothing but a K&N filter and to be blunt, a Cold Air Filter system by AEM. The engine has been flawless and runs like a champ. My 2 cents.

[@jamesbullock7257]

First sit down, you know nothing of KN....china junk since 2000 and your filter says pre foam if you read directions

[@markbrynteson5141]

No way a paper filter flows better then a say like K&N ! No way!

[@rbyfour]

I own a 2011 FX4 Ecoboost that I bought used with an aftermarket AFE equal length dual tube intake that connects to the lower half of the factory air box so it draws air thru the fender, but uses two of their conical filters instead of factory filter. I stay up on filter cleaning, oiling, maintenance, but concerned about what I'm hearing. Do I need to go as far as replacing with the stock intake (which I don't have) to go back to a stock paper filter?

[@sinusbradycardia]

I have a K&N 9" cone filter on my 86 GN. I believe this filter was put on the car in the mid 90s. I inspect the filter every year and there are no problems with it. I have the stock MAF sensor, which is now 30 years old and there has been no degraded function. I'm very meticulous with my Grand National. There are plenty of other Grand National/T-Type owners who use K&N cone filters and have been with no issues. So you might say these aren't daily drivers, but people in the south use these cars for daily drivers more than you'd think. However, I'm rebuilding my 109 block and I will be putting a new cone filter on my car. When you spend $10k on an engine, you don't mind buying new filters every couple of years. I have a Spectra filter on my s10 and it has been on since around the 75k mark. My s10 now has 186k on it. I have cleaned the filter and inspected it a couple of times. No issues. Now I have a 2014 Cruze, it has a stock filter and it will remain with a stock filter for it's entire life or at least 5 years or 100k miles, so the engine will remain under warranty should something go wrong.

[@formerice]

Ran a Dodge hemi almost 400,000 miles with K&N , still used no oil when I sold it.

[@kd4ysi]

I am also a ford technician and I agree with some of what you say but not all of it I personally run k&n on everything I own which by the way is not a ford product I drive a dodge Dakota and a vfr750f both run kn no problems and with hp gains as well

[@Gmtail]

Lots of Chrysler Products use a MAP sensor instead of a MAF like almost everyone else. The oil from the cleanable filters won't affect the MAP like it will a MAF..

[@kd4ysi]

Gmtail so true indeed but I see a Lott of people running them on the mustangs and f150 s with no problems at all then there are a few that have problems from it as well I see both sides of it

[@Gmtail]

Yeah I don't see many problems either.. Although I always have to laugh when I see stock intakes removed that draw air from the wheel well and the "Cold air" kit sits in the engine compartment..

[@kd4ysi]

Gmtail yup I agree with you a100% I do

[@GrilledCheeseMouth]

My s&b intake is an air box ..so it takes air from the stock location and from a scoop that hangs under the bumper. It takes no engine bay air

[@DilanGilluly]

I had a rigged cone air filter on my 95 Grand Cherokee when I had that. But mainly because the original system dry rotted and cracked, which dusted the intake. When I took it out the bolt heads snapped off, and I broke several bits drilling them out. So I just used self tappers for an aluminum plate, then bought some piping and a cone from Autozone. Bam, some sort of filtration system for the engine that isn't cracked. It may have not been perfect but didn't throw codes.

[@JmanLikesPokemon]

I recently purchased a K&N CAI for my standard 2000 v6 and it added quite a bit of horsepower and I didn't get a tuner either it also makes the car run a lot smoother!

[@44hawk28]

It depends on how much it actually affects the thermal reactivity of the mass airflow sensor. As for the horsepower increase using a K&N air flow system, did you reset the computer after you change the system in before you did the Dyno Run, like you're supposed to do?

[@nicholasdoran]

The only problem I've had with the K&N air filter is from my own mistake where I cleaned and re-oiled it; I actually OVER-oiled it. There is a limit to how much oil you're supposed to use so, as long as you're careful about that, the filters are great and they won't destroy your engine.

[@vincentyap3188]

no need to put oilit make the filer even more dirty,change it in every 4000 km, this will always have a clean filer, don't be lazy change it on every 100,000 km,this will have a very diry filter However I put the air filter without oil, and my bike perform better and faster acceleration and response

[@t_c5266]

you also made the mistake of installing it. Get a paper filter bro. Its not worth your engine

[@AmericanMan961]

im not looking for more power in my 05 f250 5.4l im just tryna make her breath better than the paper what filter should i get? the OEM one just seams so restrictive

[@jdla140]

I put a K&N filter on my sierra, noticed IMMEDIATELY that it was down on power, eventually it got to the point where it had no power at all. Changed out the MAF and it was find again for a while, then the same thing happened. Cleaned the original, put the old filter back on, and it's been happy ever since.

[@jimgarvey5452]

I found that our myself a few years back .when you put to much oil on them they contaminate the sensor and you are told you need a new sensor.I cleaned the one in my wife's car with sensor cleaner unhooked the battery and It's fine now.But at every oil change they both get cleaned.the filter get's oiled lightly.I don't know if I still have the original filter setup.But I would never buy another.And stick with Motorcraft parts.Sometimes you have to pay a little more but it's worth it in the long run.I take my Fords to my dealer that I deal with because they can do an oil change cheaper than i can.And I don't have to get dirty.

[@StoneysWorkshop]

I've noticed a good difference between oem and aftermarket My wife's jeep is much more stiff oem compared to after market and I can see that would help keep a good seal

[@tomtalker2000]

Your best bet folks is to use an AEM Dryflow Air Filter. The company has a collaborative manufacturing agreement with K&N. Not to mention they are DRY AND DO NOT NEED OILING...!!! K&N oiled filters will eventually ruin your mass airflow system as that oil eventually gunk's up between the pleats. The AEM Dryflow filters will last around 40-50k miles before they require there first cleaning which again is super easy to do. And as i mentioned above DO NOT need oiling...!!! There are also plenty of videos here on KZbin on how to clean them properly. Your results will vary from vehicle to vehicle. Regarding any HP, Torque, and MPG gains but you should get something out of using it over a standard paper filter no question about it. Also folks make sure you put your cover back on the filter compartment. There is a DAMN good reason why it has one to begin with. Leaving the cover off only subjects it to more dirt and debris. Not to mention potentially subjects it to flying off without the cover on there to protect it and you...!!! So if you want a good filter that will most likely last you the life of your vehicle. Get an AEM Dryflow filter yes they are more expensive but they pay for themselves in a year or two without question. I put one on my 2015 Lincoln MKC AWD 2.0L engine and haven't looked back since. So if you have a Ford or Lincoln ecoboost engine these filters are A MUST...!!! Your turbo engine will breath SO MUCH better.

[@MFM-ik9mi]

First of all I would like to say is that I do enjoy watching your videos and you have been spot on. The bad news is that I bought my K&N CAI a long time ago and it has been pretty good to me. Yes I have over oiled the filters. Yes I have had engine trouble codes due to oil on the MAF sensor. Yes I have replaced MAF sensor because it was destroyed and the trouble code would not go away. I'm not taking my CAI off the truck because I have other bolt ons that complement it. The trick is to not over oil the filter and to make sure you clean the MAF sensor with an approved cleaner.

[@greenhulk7573]

I never use FRAM filters, air or oil. K&N filter made a huge difference in my trucks horsepower since the original was not seating well to begin with. It popped up codes on my computer too. Now with the K&N system it runs great and increased my fuel mileage. Maybe using the original filter housing and reusable filters causes the problems you mention. I did use motorcraft filters before installing the new system but was having problems. I'm not a mechanic and value your expert opinions, but this one got me baffled.

[@camposvazquez]

Fram extra guard are top tier.. their other models are subpar

[@thomasburns2557]

There are independent air filter testing available on the internet. Often the original paper air filter is best. It has the least restriction and gets out the smallest particles. Cotton, foam, oiled cotton... you need an actual verifiable test to see what air filter actually works best. For someone who wants to keep the car forever it really does matter. For a high mileage person it matters. For someone who gets a car every 4 years it does not matter what they put on. I think a site called GM central has done independent air filter tests and, for the most part, paper has better filtering and less air flow restrictions.

[@petes.2835]

Thomas Burns . I read the same case study performed by an independent source about 7-8 years ago. If I remember correctly, the stock filters allowed maximum airflow over a greater period of time than reusable. Also had better filtration in the ppm category. The reusable only was efficient for a short period of time before it needed maintenance.

[@theyetti-4045]

Thomas Burns nope the k&n get better flow even when dirty then a traditional paper one. But you are right a paper one will filter better.

[@theyetti-4045]

To be honest i think the only reasons to making this was 1 to make less garbage of airfilters. Wich i could not see for the cleaner pack cause thats waste to. Only other is what everyone knows... MONEY.

[@Kevin09210]

I prefer OEM filters. I only got a K&N cabin air filter because it won't do any harm to the engine and I go through those filters quite frequently, so it made sense to get a resuable one.

[@Kevin_Yagoonie]

Why dont people get a pre filter that slips right over the filter for extra protection?

[@82raptor]

I have been using K@N filters and intake systems on all of my Ford/Mazda and Honda cars since 1998 and have NEVER had this kind of problem! My guess is that someone either over oiled or did not oil their filter at all to cause these results.

[@jimkirk1971]

Same here. Wash and oil the filter properly and you shouldn't have an issue. But I've only used the K&N filters to replace the OEM filters in the stock airbox; I've never bolted on a cold air intake. Ran a K&N filter 10 ten years and 293,000 miles in my Crown Victoria LX Sport that I bought right off the lot with no issue. I replaced the car with a 2013 Flex AWD EcoBoost and run a K&N filter on it.

[@82raptor]

jimkirk1971 Damnit Jim, I am a auto tech not a salesman! ;) My truck, my car, and my wife's car have been running K@N filters since purchase... no problems as of 145K miles.

[@vincentyap3188]

@@82raptor putting oil is to trap the dirt, you can don't put oil on it as long you change it at every 4000km should be no problem

[@TheYoungerSemiOldMan]

Don't over oil it as the directions and others say. I've used them for 23yrs and never had a problem. Period. Use common sense.

[@jamesgeorge4874]

During my tenure at a transmission shop, I can say, without a doubt, contaminated MAF sensors killed more transmissions in Ford and GM vehicles than anything except neglect. OEM remans came with warnings about the matter, if the customer refused to install a dry element filter, their warranty was void.

[@19BADGER-F250]

so would you recommend a good dry filter instead of one you would oil?

[@byronjones4635]

Every video I see on this topic is contradictory to the previous. I do like the washable air filters (as long as you do not over oil them). I have seen hp gains from them (my old mustang on a dyno averaged 1-2 more hp using cotton filter vs. paper). Negligible yes. My final reason for liking CAIs is you get to hear the induction noise a little more. Keep in mind, if you are significantly changing the amount of air going into a motor via CAI and/or manifold, you must tune for it because the stock tune will not able to properly adjust fuel spray to keep a correct 14:1 air-fuel ratio.

[@TC057]

Been running a K&N on my F150 since I bought it and have absolutely no issues. Actually gained over 2 mpg by switching to K&N.

[@Buddythomas100]

Thank you for this video. Very good information and you just saved me a few $$$ on a aftermarket filter that I don't need.

[@frankgonzalez24]

I replaced the stock filter and intake with a K&N kit. When I would take a 3-1/2 hour, one way trip to my brothers place with the stock filter and intake, I fill up prior with 91 octane prior to leaving and drive the same route. I would get to his place with 1/4 of a tank left. When I put on the K&N kit, I get to my brothers place with 3/8 of a tank. The car has a 13 gallon tank and my brother lives 250 miles from my place. That's about 2 less gallons of gas that is used. I haven't had any MAF issues since I changed to the K&N kit. So for me, the intake is worth it.

[@gilvietor1918]

I dunno, I have had great success with K&N filters over the years, including on a banshee with the airbox delete. I think the big problem is people don't know how to oil the filters. If they were terrible why are they on all the high end motors? My GT500 straight from Ford had it. Do I think they're useful in a diesel? Nope. But in some cars they really do seem to help with that first part of throttle response.

[@350toocute]

Gil Vietor You are 100% correct if the filter isn`t oiled correctly then it`s a nightmare waiting to happen.I`ve been using k&n since 2006.I had one on my ole 81 chevy Malibu over 10 yrs with no engine problems what so ever.Now I have a K&N air filter on my 2001 Ls Chevy Blazer going on 2 yrs.now.I`ve never had any problems with it what so ever.Your suppose to oil the filter just enough to have that red tone to it.You can see the difference as you oil it.If the filter is dripping oil than it has to much oil on it.When you clean it your suppose to let it air dry then put it in your vehicle.

[@challeis1]

Gil Vietor agreed

[@glehman01]

Especially with a free flowing exhaust.

[@davebailey8412]

I have used K&N filters for years on everything from my dirt bikes to my cars and now on my diesel. Don't over-oil them and clean them when they show dirt and you won't have any problems. They filter more small paticulate than an oil-less filter. Look up stream of the filter and you will see virtually no dirt or dust. All I used for off-road racing besides the oiled foam filters back in the day.

[@hungrynapps]

they work with diesel . more air . is good for a diesel engine

[@urgentcareguy3]

Quote from K&N: Every stock replacement air filter we sell comes with this sticker, which we advise consumers to place prominently on their air box. The sticker is to alert service technicians that they should not throw away your K&N air filter because it will last for the life of your vehicle. When service technicians see this sticker it means “STOP SELLING THIS CUSTOMER DISPOSABLE AIR FILTERS OVER AND OVER.” In our opinion, this is why some dealerships or service providers may attempt to discourage a consumer from using a K&N air filter or worse blame a vehicle repair on our lifetime air filter. Most dealerships provide excellent service and fulfill car warranty obligations without issue, argument or tardiness. The rest of this discussion is about a minority of dealerships who are either misguided or misinformed. We are aware of the “urban myth” (K&N News Story) created by a few dealerships that a vehicle's MAF sensor can be contaminated by K&N filter oil. No evidence has ever been provided to support this “myth” and years of diagnostic testing by K&N has shown that not only is this allegation not real, it is not even possible. In our opinion, it is an excuse for a dealership and/or the vehicle manufacturer to avoid a legitimate warranty repair. In the last 4 years, we have sold over 10,000,000 lifetime air filters and received only a few hundred calls from consumers who are having dealership or service provider challenges. We believe that Dealership's or service provider's real incentive may be to discourage the use of reusable products so they can sell disposable products over and over. In order to provide consumers with added comfort that they will not be placed in a bad position by an improper warranty denial, we offer our Consumer Protection Pledge.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

urgentcareguy3 No evidence huh

[@urgentcareguy3]

Evidence / testing is actually on their KZbin videos.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

urgentcareguy3 I am saying no evidence there is an oil/ dirt contamination issue which is obvious in my video then again the filter in the video was those air hogs they are all the same though.

[@rudedogii]

urgentcareguy3 Dealerships are not the goto place for service.

[@bigfwd69]

urgentcareguy3 This is why they call them stealerships, their primary goal is to pass blame onto anything aftermarket. I love the reasoning as well, when they say the engineers at ford, gm, etc know what they are doing better then aftermarket companies and this is why you shouldn't change things. REally?? So why so many recalls? So your saying GM engineers meant to kill all those people with their shitty ignition switches? I mean they don't make mistakes or make bad products or designs. Only a clown would say this crap. I have been running K&N filters in every car/truck I have owned over the last 25 years and never had a problem. If there is oil from the filter getting on the MAF then some idiot soaked it in to much oil and shouldn't be working on cars.

[@Doctoberfest]

Question did you tune for the increased airflow on the muscle car "test" of yours? I can upgrade injectors on a car that'll increase the horse power but it wont do anything unless it's tuned.

[@JohnyTechReview]

Been using it on my G35 since 2009. Open it up recently to clean the MAF and throttle body. Beside a few dark carbon build up there wasn't much more. the MAF wasn't even that dirty but I clean everything. Mine fits well though and not lose like yours.

[@halffull44]

I have used K&N filters started in 1996 K&N is the BEST more air more horse power saved a lot money to.

[@TheDickMan_]

Lololololllll

[@JustLouIt]

If you don't over oil your filter you shouldn't have that issue.

[@HarryRacer18]

Dogurasu not true. I over oiled mine and the Check Engine light came on after approx. 20 miles. Turns out to be the MAP sensor. Took the MAP out and it was coated with oil. Cleaned it & was good for 100 miles then it came back on again. The K&N oil already killed the MAP. Had to replace it. Then I tossed the K&N in the garbage. Reason why I went with K&N was so I don't have to do so much maintenance. If you factor in the cost of the K&N, the time spent, the cost of the cleaner and oil, it's just cheaper and easier to go with a paper filter. That's what's in the car now a cheap air filter and I've had it going for 6 months and it's still clean.

[@HarryRacer18]

Dogurasu I used to think it was good too. Now I know better since I had to buy a brand new $250 MAF sensor (hand to go with OEM) an aftermarket one failed, the throttle body had to be clean cause it was massively dirty. You may think my story is "bullshit" but it's very true to my wallet. My cousin who is a mechanic now also used to use K&N trashed his in all his cars. He seen many cases of cars with K&N that had issues. K&N is a good product if you perform proper maintenance. The thing is a lot of folks buy them so they don't have to keep buying filters. They also buy them so they don't have to do so much maintenance. Some buy them thinking it performs better (it's debatable, my experience, 7 years of use, saw no difference).

[@All2Skitzd]

+Dogurasu I hate to bite the troll bait but still gonna.... K&N Proved it? They got no motive to lie besides money. Yeah they over oiled a filter, used grade school science fair test tools a truck parked indoors in a clean environment and it didnt come off. Then they used some non-realistic test and none came off. Hey go on and navigate to around K&N site to the part that admits that it does come off (hey because who are they to call the car makers putting out TSB's warning against it) BUT they tested it on ONE, yes ONE MAP sensor by spraying to much directly on the sensor it and it still worked... Now where is your verifiable PROOF it wont hurt it? Ive seen cars go for over a year with no air filter. I'm not trying to say K&N is horrible filter and has no place, but dont be a sucker for there bullshit marketing and sorry ass legal team abusing laws to force there product to be acceptable not to void warranty. Some cars the factory filter is good the life of the car depends on a lot of factors. I just know from what i have seen working on cars with them, that magic filter oil that only sticks to filter and lets more air and no dirt in looks like shit on the inside.

[@All2Skitzd]

Okay well what brand oil do you use? I just put whatever oil change special i can find or walmart oil or whatever is on sale, sometimes go 10K without a oil change, sometimes would get a oil change at walmart every two weeks when i drove 7000 miles a month and that doesnt even factory in that some days my car would get started in the morning time and the motor would not get shut off for over 8 hours then it would get turned on and off constantly when i went to deliver pizzas after i got off work at my day job, never had a motor go bad, so it that the secret to longevity? is that how I get 200K-250K plus out of cheap chevy motors? hell no, it dont prove shit

[@BlueOvals24]

I've been using a K&N filter and CAI on my Ranger and haven't run into any problems with it clogging. You just have to be more on top of cleaning it regularly and not over oiling. As far as the CAI goes, the it may have been a mistake. I haven't tuned it yet so I'm definitely not gaining on power. I'll be buying a Mustang soon and will probably just get a K&N filter but leave the factory tubing.

[@turtlemann14]

what do you think about the aem dry flow?

[@Tman0517]

Idk my k&n hasn't caused me any of these problems and has served me very well.

[@Monkeypumper420]

I agree, K&N lets all the fine stuff through, and you get dirty sensors from the oil required to contain contaminates. I made the switch back to factory elements, and foam on my quads. Now all stays clean when inspecting intake tracts.

[@matthewgoulamanian5968]

if you just drive near concrete, you wont have a problem if your driving in dirt, put the oem one back kn

[@standhd]

@@matthewgoulamanian5968 My thoughts exactly!

[@righteousredneck777]

K&N uses oiled filters. Ever hold one up to a light? Folks...you will see tiny pin holes. Sure, this gives you more airflow, but also allows more particles through that act like sandpaper in a engine. As for the oil...that's to trap dirt that the filter can't on it's own. Oil attracts dirt!! This means it get's dirty quicker and the dirtier it gets....the less airflow you have...defeating the whole purpose of having it. Indeed...THINK TWICE!! Great video.

[@douglasdailey5998]

If you read the directions that come with the k&n filters it says to wash it in soapy water at least once a year, and let dry before you reinstall.

[@yogimanable]

K&N filters aren't for everyone, every environment, or every vehicle, but they are a well engineered product and I can back up their claims for filtration, longevity, and somewhat for flow as well. Here in Colorado at 1 mile elevation, we'll take any advantage in airflow we can get. These filters outflow a typical paper filter (remember the ping pong ball demo they used to have at the part store counters). That doesn't necessarily guarantee more power, but at 1 mile elevation, it's a real good bet because you're getting closer to the engineered specs. Up here, there's roughly a 20% power deficit. My f150 does definitely benefit when I'm wide open throttle with 8k lbs trailer going up the on ramp with Colorado Rockies thin air. As for filtration, I added 180k miles with a K&N to my 5.4 2v f150 that already had 100k with a Fram. There was never any hint of dust or oil downstream of either filter. I have always been careful to oil just a bit on the lighter side, from the dirty side only, and super evenly down both sides of every pleat as I was instructed to by a K&N Engineer. K&N publishes the micron size that they can filter to but that is completely conditional on the oiling. I've known people that have over oiled, not cleaned well enough or often enough and they had problems. Don't clean or oil incorrectly. At 280k, I confirmed that the 5.4 does not run well on water... Long story short, when I pulled everything apart, there was no scoring and the cross hatching was pristine. I bought an used later model intake manifold with the build to benefit from the larger runners and, despite the donor having 1/3 the miles, it was a nightmare for dirt compared to mine. Filter maintenance is far more important than brand, as long as we're taking about leading brands. As for me, both filters did great in this application with proper maintenance. However, application is as critical as maintenance. I also run K&N filters (plural) on my sport quad and would NOT recommend this. I have 2 stages and a pre-filter and I usually pull the first stage before the end of a single day when it starts to burble. K&Ns don't hold much dirt. There are much better filters for heavy dust environments. I've heard plenty of horror stories of diesels being destroyed by K&Ns too. There's a lot more air flow through a diesel and any filter that can't hold a ton of dirt and still not let anything through should be an obvious bad choice. K&Ns start to not filter as well when the oil gets absorbed by the dirt they hold. When they get really loaded up, larger pieces of dirt can actually be pulled through the cotton and now you have a dirty and damaged filter that will dust the engine. Diesels are particularly good at this. Guys do well with them on their diesels if they watch them like a hawk, but there is definitely a risk there. For diesels, a quality oversized paper filter adapted from a much larger application seems to be the safest and best of both worlds for flow and dirt capacity, so long as it's a common and inexpensive application and it fits in there. Food for thought, more is more. There will always be horror stories about K&N filters because of misuse or misapplication, but like most good performance parts, to those that truly understand how the part works, what the pitfalls and benefits are, and of course the risks, there may be plenty to gain. K&Ns aren't for everyone or every application so if you doubt yourself, best to stick to a safer option. And if you're the type to try and save a few bucks on a different brand without matching the filtration, flow, longevity, and definitely the gasket quality, then this is probably not a road you want to go down. Point is, don't be afraid to try one if you can see how they would be a benefit to you, but your results will depend on your understanding and commitment.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Neil Townley Wow big write up! I know the diesel guys are especially guilty of this every one is always packed big time.

[@yogimanable]

+FordTechMakuloco Ya, more air, more dirt. If you know of them and agree, the Ford blue diesel filter kit would make a good video for the diesel guys. I've not used one yet, but I had a girlfriend diesel tech that raved about them and said no one knows about them. I think I heard they were developed for the oil field diesel specials they sell in the middle east. Love watching your videos. You do a great job. Keep em coming

[@FOEHMR0024]

I’ve been running K&N filters on my 01’ SVT Lightning, 1999 Ford Expedition for years now with no issues unless saving money is an issue. On the Dyno my lightning picked up 12HP with the stock style K&N filter.

[@rays7437]

Yes but you probably take care of it properly. Most people don't.

[@joeisaaca8668]

Is there an easier way to clean the tube that leads to the throttle body? I cleaned my throttle body yesterday and noticed that there was dirt in the plastic air intake tube right before the spot where it connects to the throttle body. -2012 F150 FX2 V8 5.0. Also my truck has the square shaped air filter instead of the cone shaped one is this video Thank You

[@trishahouston3656]

I’m so glad I took my garbage k&n filter out of my 97 f150 4.2, and put back the OEM PAPER FILTER! It runs so much better! No more crazy idle, fuel trims are back to normal

[@pitbullgamer8116]

im a ASE Certified mechanic for 30 years now i run k&n on the same car for 6 years now and never had any problems with it

[@FordTechMakuloco]

ASE certs don't mean much Ford doesn't even recognize them anymore so I let mine expire. It is the real world diagnosis that matters and this evidence is indisputable unfortunately.

[@anthonydavis153]

The fastest way to discredit yourself is to attack someone else's credentials.

[@crazydiggity]

Very true Anthony. This video is not true. They found one car that didn't have a good seal and was over oiled. I ran a K and N on a chevy truck to the tune of 350K miles. No problem. Engine was good. Only got rid of it because electronic systems needed to be replaced.

[@evoxjoe9316]

How often do you clean the filter, if you ever have??

[@crazydiggity]

Joe Christ around every 50k miles you need to recharge it

[@EppingForest304]

Useful vlog, I'm definitely only going to buy decent quality filters from now on.

[@wesleythompson7]

Buy WIX air filters and oil filters they're the BEST .

[@petrosspetrosgali]

Nothing this guy said in the video really made sense. It sounds like he works at an auto parts store. The engineers set up intakes like that for fuel economy only. The reason people put cold air intakes on their cars is to get better throttle response and a bit more power. Of course, on would need to unrestricted the exhaust as well for better results. Paper filters are garbage and generated a lot of waste..

[@adventurous63]

Hold a K&N up to a light and you will see thousands of tiny holes. Anything smaller than these holes just passes right through. I used to race dirt bikes and thought K&Ns were the cats meow, but I kept wondering why my motor wore out so fast. I finally coated the intake tract with grease and found dust all over it. Went back to the stock Yamaha filters and no more problems and didn't notice any HP loss.

[@DatNguyen-ot3wk]

Is it a good idea to spray silicone spray on a air filter to catch more dirty. There's a video on KZbin doing that to collect more dirt.

[@ezpottsy1]

Yes I know better than the engineers that design intakes for the masses. All those resonators and corrugated plastic tubes cause turbulence and slow the air down. It's done to keep the car quiet for the 95% of people who don't want to hear the engine growl of a CAI. I've also had my 2013 Accord Sport dyno'd pre and post CAI... I went from stock 172whp at 6200rpm (191hp Honda Estimate) to 178whp at 6200rpm with an aFe CAI short ram. It removed 4 bends, and feet of corrugated tubing, and added real world HP.

[@vincefairleigh6899]

ezpottsy1 , good point, I am thinking of taking out the resonators from my factory cold air intake for my 2015 Silverado, I had an AFE cold air intake and had major issues, they are poorly designed for the chev, the air box is fixed to the body and the throttle body end is attached to the engine that moves a lot, mine moved so much that it ripped the rubber boot that attaches to the tube on the throttle body, very poorly designed.

[@babayaga1767]

engineers have to adhere to gov. standards. while i agree your car probably runs best the way it came, you can get more performance yourself. but you may sacrifice reliabilty

[@SangheiliSpecOp]

Bigger aftermarket intakes are not really used for their cold air as they are for more air flow. My 2008 Mustang GT drove way better when I ditched the stock intake, it used to feel like the engine was starved for air at higher rpm before I put in the new intake. And sincr then i've tuned it and it drives way better

[@WhiskeyRiverRifleman]

+Nick Piberius Wilde you just think it drove better. cold air intakes are a LIE. they are not ducted to recieve air from outside the vehicle. all they do is give the engine the warmer underhood air, any idiot can see that.

[@SangheiliSpecOp]

+WhiskeyRiverRifleman I agree with you, they aren't routed or ducted and can lead to warmer air. But my point was that big cold air intakes generally have larger and smooter flowing pipes where the air can flow into the engine much more efficiently. I assure you that my GT drove 100% better with a cai vs the horrible stock intake with it's tiny 2 inch intake hole. Theres a reason why you need a pcm tune for large CAIs, it's because they bring in a lot more air than stock.

[@joer5057]

+Nick Piberius Wilde One only need to look at the "accordion style" air tubes that most manufacturers use to see that, yes, a nice smooth intake tube would be more conductive to improved airflow.

[@SangheiliSpecOp]

+Joe R Yep! I've since deleted my charge motion control valves for always-open steeda delete plates and now my engine gets even more air when I'm WOT and it really goes now.

[@ttirrem2000]

not if it sits out from the engine compartment., it's much cooler down and out.

[@RyDeezy]

My WRX did not like the K&N filter. Oil destroyed my MAF sensor and caused a ton of driving issues. Filter only had about 3k miles on it, so I never had a chance to oil it myself. I only use dry filters...

[@Stonemasters11]

Someone mentioned it but if you say that an Unnamed Muscle Car lost power after installing a Reusable High Flow Air Filter than the computer wasn’t reset properly to adjust, Period! It’s absurd that a claimed seasoned tech would actually be convinced to say that you will lose power switching from a paper to cotton gauze filter and actually believe it.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Carb care no ECU to tune

[@RockandrollNegro]

You say "do you really think you know better than the Ford engineers that designed your airbox?" Well yes, I do. I have the same airbox on my ZX2 that you have in this video. One of the very best mods you can do to that vehicle is to hack off the end of the box and remove the resonators from the arm. Google "Kemanized intake" and grab about five extra horsepower.

[@YungSteambuns]

Yeah I agree, fuck this guy and fuck Ford engineers Who in their right mind puts a timing chain on the front AND back of an engine?

[@steve5912]

I have a 2000 Dodge ram 2500 turbo diesel 24 valve with 385xxx Miles on it its got a K&N filter starts first crank no codes runs great annd i dont even maintain it much.....

[@thomasburns2557]

I used to race motocross . The old oil foam filters we had were junk. Independent testing shows that very clearly

[@231mac]

I agree with this. I have not worked on a car with a K&N, Green or any other reusable filter that did not have a thin coat of oil in the intake tract accompanied with fine grit stuck to it. I ran them when I was a younger, but won't touch them now.