This Is How They Fix Leaning Fences in New Zealand? Fence Expert Reacts

Let's see how the Kiwis over in New Zealand fix a leaning fence! It's always a good time checking out fence videos from around the globe. Will this one pass or fail American standards? Let's find out!
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[@ianshand6094]

Excellent commentary, Joe. It's great to see you comparing how other countries do and what they call things relative to your own in a respectful and non-arrogant way, it's appreciated. As a Kiwi, my observations... the hole for the post that failed wasn't deep enough into the ground and the Mitre 10 guy gave the reason when he was clearing the hole - he hit some lava rock. This tells me the location of the property is likely in Auckland, which is built on dormant volcanoes. You literally need a jack hammer to break through lava rock. That's why whoever put the fence up originally decided just to get the post in as deep as possible and rely on the other posts to carry the load - adopting what we Kiwis and Aussies call a 'she'll be right' approach to the problem. Here in NZ, we typically use 2.4 m (roughly 8 ft) 100 mm x 100 mm (4 in x 4 in) rough sawn H4 treated (or ground treated) posts. They literally take donkey's years to rot. If you put some gravel in the hole first, then the post, and then the concrete, the post will stay relatively dry in the ground and last a lifetime. We dig the posts in 1/3 of the length of the post, or 600 mm (2 ft), leaving 1.8 m (6 ft) above ground. We can build fences higher in NZ, but 6 ft is the norm. We use 4 in x 2 in (or 4 by 2s) rough sawn H3 treated (above ground exterior) rails between the posts. Our palings are typically 6 ft x 6 in x 1 in rough sawn H3 treated.

[@zumamaya2396]

The most common causes of leaning fences in NZ, in my experience are; hole not deep enough, post not centred in the hole (concrete only support three sides), Clay ground moving during wet and dry seasons and warped pine (All fencing timber warps over time) I have worked for some landscaping companies that don't dig holes deep enough - the clay is too hard, tree roots, old rocks and bricks from builders spoil, access can be difficult etc.

[@ronhonig]

LOL, It was definitely peg. I live in Australia and our accents are similar (the New Zealanders just talk slower). LOL

[@JoeEverest]

I appreciate the clarification!

[@dougmathews4480]

It's definitely peg, as a Kiwi myself I notice Americans often mishear our accent around "e" and "i" sounds, there's an add for a deck stain product that Americans appear to find hilarious because of how they hear the word "deck" Also I was always taught a minimum post depth of 600mm (2 feet) this one seemed a bit shallow. 2 screws per rail but I would use larger screws, or 4 inch nails. Edit, also I would try and straighten the post first, digging out one side, lever it over, put some more concrete in

[@JoeEverest]

I appreciate the clarification, and you weighing in with your process!

[@Kiwi2211]

In NZ at the likes of Mitre 10 you can by premix bagged concrete which is quick set. 2-4 hours depending on weather. Some builders pour it dry into the hole and add water to mix, some mix it in the barrow ( which I think is what has been done here). Some of the older school builders barrow mix it first so that they don’t get as much dirt in it as if they mixed in hole.

[@bigbeeforever]

The guys a house builder by trade, evident in his techniques

[@beardyface8492]

In the UK a leaning 6 foot fence happens a lot, it's typically a race between rot & the fact the posts are just about never in deep enough. 6 foot fences get put in using 8 foot posts, nobody is willing to cut down 10 foot ones & they don't sell 9 foot, you'll often see leaning fences even with concrete posts as a result. Want to be sure it stays upright until rot sees it off, rule of thumb is 1/3 of the post lives down the hole, but nobody does that since postcrete became a thing..

[@beroccabama1008]

On a barb steel picket either side or if it’s a picket fence just replace the steely, if it’s residential just get some one else to do it which is my favourite way to dig a hole as well

[@jayvanwyck4717]

When I put any post in the ground, I drill two holes through all posts and drive rebar through twice to give support and adhesion.

[@JoeEverest]

Sounds like a solid process!

[@jayvanwyck4717]

@@JoeEverest are you familiar with basalt rebar? It is stronger and does not rust like steel rebar. Use steel posts. I think they would be better than and prevent galvanic corrosion between your post!

[@anonymousperson4363]

Technically a jigsaw any other saw where the blade moves backward and forward in a straight line :is also a reciprocating saw.

[@iron3624]

the recep saw we call a sawsall which i know its the brand of tool, the oscillator we call fein saw cause of the brand hahahha

[@JoeEverest]

Good to know!

[@northwestgaming4049]

Warped or broken I dig and replace post. Just found to be easier to start over

[@JoeEverest]

Agreed, always better safe then sorry!

[@tu9925]

Great content!! Enjoying the show bro!

[@JoeEverest]

Appreciate it!! Thanks for watching!

[@kikiokiki6788]

they didn't even show the bottom of the post when he pulled it out lol.

[@KahurangiSteez]

kiwi here, 100% peg

[@JoeEverest]

I appreciate the clarification!

[@pbmartinfencing]

I would say most common here is not setting the post deep enough or with enough concrete . We see it every single day .

[@csvinylfence6958]

If it's leaning and not broken, it was installed improperly and we remove and reinstall correctly.

[@kylestanley4989]

I just rewound and watched the pig peg Dillema 3 times and laughed every time

[@JoeEverest]

😂

[@harshalshah4685]

Looked like the post rotted out in the concrete, which is why it was so easily pulled

[@northwestgaming4049]

In Montana we fence screwed with two screws. In oregon we set inside post and I use brackets or master halco (preferred).

[@JoeEverest]

Sounds like a solid process!

[@terrymorelanddg955]

Needs a bigger level lol

[@JoeEverest]

😂 definitely

[@michaelgreenfield8484]

Anyways great content Joe!

[@reccocon3442]

Wherever that mate is from, they like to work harder not smarter.

[@gointomexico]

replace the posts properly is my solution.

[@JoeEverest]

Solid solution!

[@haydenjames7019]

We have saying here in nz and she be right

[@RichardKinch]

Round post holes filled with concrete are a poorly-performing anchor, and wasteful of expensive material. You only need stability against leaning in directions perpendicular to the fence line. There is no need to stabilize lean along the line of the fence, since the fence itself is a rigid truss against movement in those directions. The concrete in the middle portion of the footer column is a waste, because that part doesn't move when the post leans. Only the top and bottom of the footer deliver any stability. The weight of the concrete is irrelevant, because the up-down stability is not dependent on that. What you need is an inverted tee truss resting on the bottom of the footing, as if the fence were free-standing on an open floor instead of being buried at footer depth. You can make that out of a few feet of lumber and omit the concrete. This performs better (more stable) than a mass of concrete. The disadvantage is more excavation during the install. You could also form triangular footers out of concrete, but that requires form work rather than just filling rough holes. You're a fan of the steel PostMaster posts, which also benefit from better optimized concrete forms. All you need is a gob of concrete at the bottom of the footer hole and another at ground level, kind of a dumb-bell-shaped result. I form this using 8x8 hollow concrete block as collars on the steel post, grouting the bottom of the post with concrete into the center of the block beforehand, and set that down in the bottom of the post hole. Then dirt backfill, leaving space for another block at ground level, grouted the same way once the post is set plumb.

[@ScottysVise]

The "truss" is going to rot out just like a post will, and will take more time to dig it out and replace. It's extra material, and more expensive and time consuming than concrete. Imagine when the fence falls over, and now you have to excavate wood "trusses" out of the ground... Where I'm from, we set pressure treated posts in concrete for wood fencing. Holes dug to 3 feet.

[@RichardKinch]

@@ScottysVise The post rots quickest, so the truss will not be the point of failure. The lumber vs concrete is about the same cost, and less labor (no hauling and mixing concrete). The stability improvement wins the efficiency, if you are determined to use wood in ground contact. Still, better to go with steel, and avoid all the weakness of ground contact PT wood. The proof of this is the fact that the repair in the reaction video is done with a temporary falsework truss staked above ground, to establish temporary stability for a new buried footing. Just do that truss once. Put it underground where it is permanent.