This is how to reset your VW ABS Traction Warning Light i908 00287

The i908 kit has been replaced with the VAWS V1.0 and is available here www.diagnostic-...

[@colincourier]

why eye . your easy teaching is very good, keep it up well done.

[@Skb_mo]

My tyre pressure light and traction control light is on Be had a new wheel bearing fitted Lights been reset but doesn’t clear Any idea what this might be ?

[@crezzlin]

Did you find a fix? I have the same problem. Ta

[@Skb_mo]

@@crezzlin I ended up getting new battery / new tyres fitted and it went away … golfs are weird

[@thejunior9497]

@@crezzlinYou need to have tpms sensors on the tyres

[@masixolebeja1199]

Excellent

[@glengoodwin]

So, what you're saying is I need to call a mechanic

[@MikePate1975]

No, I just did all 4 speed sensors on mine and it was easy. What he is saying is if you get that scan tool it will diagnose abs sensors and other abs related issues. The sensors have 1 screw and 1 plug. Then you might need a flat blade screwdriver to pry it out of the hole. Just go around it with even pressure and not all in one place or you will break it off in the hole. So work around the sensor between the wheel hub and the sensors body. They come out fairly easily. Be sure to put the car on Jack stands and scotch the tires so it can't move. Your going to have to crawl under the rear while it is up in the air. I found out by doing it, no one told me that you will need to remove the screw securing the rear sensors before the plug can be removed. And the plugs have a flat tab that is close to the main body of the plug on the short flat side. You have 2 long flat sides, a short curved side and a short flat side. So the tab is close to the main body of the plug on the short flat side. Use a pick set with a 90° bend on the pointed end of the pick and place it in the center of the shirt flat side against the main body of the plug and pull straight out. That will release the plug. I had to figure that out on my own as well. And yes it took a while. It wasn't until I accidentally released one and was able to look at it that I figured out how to do it. The sensors on the rear have the sensor mounted to close to the hub to get a pick in there to release the plug so you will have to crawl under it while it's lifted. And the only way to see is looking up from directly under the rear hub. The wheel hub is so that there is a recess in the middle where the sensor is mounted so that it can't be seen from any other location. And the shocks and other suspension components are all mounted in such a way as to make it difficult but not impossible to get to the sensor, the plug and the screw that secures it to the hub. And all sensors are secured to the back side of the hub, the rear are at the top center and the front ones are just off of top center towards the rear. If you use a 1/4" impact with a long I believe it's a T-27 torque bit, and by long I mean about 8"-10". And possibly a direct l flex shaft on the between the impact and the long torque bit to get you between any suspension components in the way. I used a DeWalt angled driver on a DeWalt 1/4" compact impact driver with a 3" torque bit and came up through the bottom of the hub to access it. But the angled driver that I used doesn't hold the torque bit in it and it kept falling out. So it was difficult to use. That's why I'm suggesting a long bit with a flex shaft between the bit and the impact driver. I managed, but I needed 3 hands and it was only seen fit to give me 2 for some reason. All in all this is very very very doable. My buddy came and gave me a hand, but in reality although he is an ASE certified mechanic and worked at the Chevy dealership the several years his role in changing the 4 ABS sensors in my VW Tiguan was more that of a helper. He helped me jack the car up and set the jack stands. Then I removed the wheels on that side and started the sensors and he started putting the wheels back in and made sure the sensors where plugged in and secured and making sure the wheels where at the right hub so they were also rotated when re-mounted. Basically he was a buddy to hang with. And although I knew nothing about replacing ABS sensors It was easy enough to do that I didn't need my ASE Certified Mechanic buddy to explain or teach me to do it. It was easy enough to figure out on my own. So, yes, although you need a code reader that can read the signal from the ABS sensors to identify the ABS sensor or sensors that are malfunctioning and to turn off the dash lights as well as to verify that the error has in deed been fixed. Turning off the warning lights without the error having been resolved well only keep them off until the cycle has again processed to the point that the error will be again recognized and the error code thrown. That is how I verify that the work I intend to do is what will actually resolve the problem. I clean all connections, add dielectric grease when and where needed, test the continuity, resistance and ground of any wires and leads in the wiring harness and actuate anything that can be actuated. A power probe 3 (or any power probe with the ability to provide 12 volts to bench test any components requiring 12 volts) is very handy when it comes to actuating or powering electrical components as long as the component is properly grounded. The Power Probe 3 is an amazing piece of diagnostic equipment. It will test continuity, it will instantly tell you if it's a power line and how much voltage is present as well as if it's the ground wire being tested and the condition of the ground. The color of the light that illuminates when the probe makes contact with the wire tells you what the wire is for voltage, neutral or ground. It can also test speakers and speaker wires using the built in speaker. So that can be helpful when testing the wiring and the wiring harness of the sensors being examined. I'm about to go out to the shop and use the power probe to bench test the ABS sensors that I pulled from the hubs when replacing them and see if there is a reliable method to bench test these. Since they use the hell effect then I'm but exactly sure there is a bench test method the these new sensors. But changing them is easy.

[@roofscoop66]

Can you use any pump or do the numbers on the side have to match

[@EnglandsVoice]

After a flat battery my dashboard looked like a Christmas tree, ESC control deactivated ? In the center console in yellow, after a heart attack to find out it was just a flat battery , after charging the battery on the car overnight, I started it up bingo left with just 3 lights on, traction control light airbag light also a red one for Tire pressure , but to clear them just turn your steering wheel fully to the left then to the right , all lights now out, with all this technology why can't it just say low battery somewhere ,

[@benjamink.7009]

You just saved my ass, thank you!

[@Oskar_CII]

Buen vídeo!! Por favor active subtítulos en español, tendrá más seguidores y visualizaciones, gracias!

[@liamkehoe5036]

How to fix the sensor on an ABS pump

[@patriot1303]

Holy moly dude you put your steering wheel on the wrong side sheesh 🙄 rookie

[@simontromans2748]

Depends on which hand you use to draw a sword apparently 🤷‍♂️

[@woodyforest7308]

Can be all sorted out with a lefthanded screwdrivers

[@dannysmobiletuneup8317]

Did all these and didn't work. I used the ZR PRO Scanner.

[@janedoe5048]

it cost about $650.

[@GAMINGINMYCAR]

How do I reset my yellow steering wheel light???

[@JamesDemetriades]

You find a solution?

[@GAMINGINMYCAR]

@@JamesDemetriades not yet. I think I need a Volkswagen specific obd2 scanner to reset it

[@boblijanci]

@@GAMINGINMYCAR hi. Did u fix this?

[@GAMINGINMYCAR]

@@boblijanci no sold my car before I did. But first thing first is you have to fix the battery drain problem if you have one. If your voltage is low that yellow light will appear. But in my case I had to replace my clockspring but I sold my car before i fixed it. Then reset the code using a vag specific obd2 scan reader from Amazon

[@boblijanci]

@@GAMINGINMYCAR ohh okay... thanks a lot for your help.