This over-engineered IKEA hack got out of hand!

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Thanks Hendrik for the awesome electroplated part! Check out his channel here: / @hen3drik
This video got a bit out of hand after I equipped my PC with the loudest fans imaginable. Instead of just buying more silent fans and accepting my defeat, I decided to make a sound proof cabinet out of an IKEA cabinet. I ran into several issues which I solved in this video. Because of this I learned new things and came up with new ideas for other projects! So, don't be afraid of just trying something, you might just end up with something cool ;)
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[@properprinting]

This is a video filled with my worst decisions, but with somehow the best outcomes haha. Thanks Hendrik for the cherry on top by electroplating the remote power button! Check out his channel www.youtube.com/@hen3drik If you have any concerns about the temperature of my PC, especially in this hot weather, I'll post an update on Twitter if there are any noteworthy findings. Things are looking good and it's so silent that I thought that the remote power button broke xD

[@riba2233]

yeah like buying a 14900K, aka a furnace :D

[@SilveiraMichael]

my friend! You are next to a window. Why don't you use ducts and filters to move air in and out and leave the computer isolated from your studio?

[@mikajurvanen8219]

You are a living breathing walking legend. Haha. Epic video for a fantasticly thoroughly made solution for a problem that solved itself, with new fans. Haha. You beast!! ❤

[@DCMAKER133]

(I am done editing) Its not that good because those foam things only catch/stop sound from bouncing and do not do much with stopping sound from going through the wall. Those pyramids are not sound barriers! What you need are sound barriers. What you need to buy is aerogel batting and put a few inches of aerogel batting on the outer walls to block the sound. You still want those cones/pyramids on the inside but you want aerogel batting or any sound barrier outside/behind those sound absorbing cones/pyramids. IIRC, total heat insulation is very similar or the same to total sound insulation. I don't know if its the exact same or just similar and if just similar how X material works in heat insulation vs sound insulation... BUT I do know areogel batting is the "best" or at least second best insulator out there. So aerogel batting has very good sound barrier properties. Vacuum insultation is the only thing that works "better" but I don't know if it works better than areogel batting as a sound barrier. What I am talking about here are Turvac panels. Turvac panels though aren't completely hollow/empty like a vacuum. They have some basic foam* insulation inside the vacuum. Ideally, if you could make turvac panels with aerogel batting that would work the best on all levels but that doesn't exist AFAIK. It should though!!! *I don't remember what the actual filling is So your best choice would be putting either aerogel battery on the outside or maybe try using Turvac panels on the outside. This would actually give you crazy good sound insulation!!! If you do, do this please let me know if Turvac panels work better than aerogel batting. I at some point will try this with my own project but would love to know which is better so I don't have to take the time to figure it out ^-^ Cheers mate, I hope this helps! Useful sites for you: www.turvac.eu/ www.buyaerogel.com/ www.buyaerogel.com/product-category/blankets/ www.aeropac.us/ www.aerogeltechnologies.com/classic-aerogels/classic-aerogel-products/ It comes in all sorts of types with various ratings and durability's. You can get batting, tiles, sheets, blankets, roam rolls, regular monolithic plates, and more. If you can be 100% sure you won't crack/break it getting pure aerogel plates would work best but those are crazy fragile and a pain. Really, any of the more robust forms of aerogel would work great assuming the Turvac panels don't work better for sound proofing. Please understand the big issue with Turvac panels is if they loose their vacuum like getting punctured or air leaks in, in anyway. They will become 100% useless besides whatever their internal "foam" insulation rating is. So if you need this for a long-term and long life (decades) project that is not easy to replace like insulating a home or using it for something that would be expensive and/or time consuming to replace. You will want to use an aerogel product but for something like this Turvac panel could be amazing since it'll be easy to replace them (assuming it works as a good sound insulator).

[@ws.7]

First time i've watched one of your videos, and first time i've commented on one for a long time, brilliant video made me laugh, you have the same streak of jank as me😁, but i have to ask why put a box inside a box? i thought you were going to mount the PC components on the suspended platform, you could still do this.

[@fixifaxhd772]

I love how you could have just replaced the fans, but instead, you spend a lot of money and resources to build something and in the end replace the fans either way. I love it xD

[@JamesBackes4335]

sometimes the 5th idea on the list that "looks stupid" is the best option.

[@monev44]

or just slow the fans down with PWM. I own those fans, and you can just turn them down. They have a super wide working RPM range, wider then most Noctua fans, if you turn them down they are just as quite as any other fan they sell, but they can also tough enough to spin really fast (and therefor loud).

[@Roobotics]

@@monev44 He said in the video the PC was throttling as it was even when jetplane loud, slowing them down would have just made it throttle even harder as-it-was, though if you meant after the radiator getting pushed outside etc, then there is merit in that, to just re-use them somewhere.

[@newmonengineering]

I upgraded my fans, it cost some decent money but it was well worth it. I can turn my server on and hear almost nothing now. It's way better than trying to soundproof the thing , it saves space.

[@AlJay0032]

I'm not a youtuber, so I just bought the best fans on the market.

[@integza]

Your pc was loud in that call! And this is coming from somenoe that puts his face next to pulsjet engines!

[@JonS]

Do you run pulsejets to give your video calls more Zoom?

[@GoldenAdhesive]

​@@JonS It's like painting flames on stuff to make it go faster 😂

[@kruszielski]

Sound Engineer here with a few "rule of thumbs" for improve your project: 1- Acoustic foam is used for sound reflection absorption, not insulation. It does have an small effect, but you probably already realized that. the deeper the foam, the lower the frequency it will absorb. Consider leaving a gap between it and the walls of the cabinet, and it will have a better efficiency. 2- for springs absorption, the perfect amount of deformity under load for it absorb vibrations is about 30%. For example, your string should stretch 30% while holding your computer to have a more efficient absorption of the vibrations. 3- I will assume the main source of noise in your cabinets where the vents: open windows directly into the noise. You could build a duct like box filled with absorbent materials for your air circulation, and this would mitigate your problem.

[@properprinting]

Thanks for your insights!

[@HERUsai]

A long muffler to absorb the noise, nice idea!

[@radry100]

@@HERUsai build the pc into the muffler *mind blown*

[@GeorgiBalabanov]

I really love your enthusiasm but what we did in the company I recently worked for our audio engineers is just moving PCs outside of the room. If you need dead silent environment that is the solution. It seems to me it will be both more effective and less cumbersome but probably less content for a video 😂. But the button... I want one! :)

[@VIctorCarruyo]

Was looking for this comment. 👍

[@DarkArtGuitars]

Such an engineer move, creating a whole cabinet when it was as easy as replacing the cooler ;) Also for reference, the foam you used is meant to stop echoes in a room, not block sound from coming out. So it actually has a very minimal effect in this case. You'd want something much denser such as rock wool or proper sound isolation panels to block the sound from coming out (not that they are needed anymore for this project).

[@thomaskletzl6493]

or water screaming under water is very hard

[@properprinting]

Oh yes, you're right! It's still significantly quieter and I bought these panels mostly because of looks and convenience, besides having some impact.

[@JonS]

When I built a cabinet for one of my old printers, I used sound absorbing foam (purchased from McMaster-Carr here in the US). It's expensive though.

[@werner.x]

@@properprinting Looks don't matter inside of soundproofing cabinets though. Because they're closed to the public for some reason 😉 Maybe take a look inside a silenced air compressor housing before building your next cabinet. You'll find a thick layer of rockwool, usually hidden underneath perforated metal sheets, just like one would build a car muffler. And, equally important - in and out airducts are built like a labyrinth, which of course is also covered with rockwool. No direct escape route for the soundwaves. But regardless of being useful stuff or not - an awesome example of craftmanship!

[@bullzebub]

a easy way to make meshes is to pause the print halfway, then tension a nylon stocking over the print, then resume. the fabric will be embedded in the print. :-)

[@properprinting]

That's a great tip, thanks!

[@hanswurstusbrachialus5213]

@@properprinting The mesh works by static charge.. plastic ones do not work.. just a waste of everything

[@Krash101]

@@hanswurstusbrachialus5213interesting. So metal window screen would work? Can’t be grounded I assume.

[@Krash101]

I use window screen. It’s more durable and easier to work with.

[@BestKosmakCZ]

So, instead of solving the overheating with a better case and cooler, we invested into an ikea chokebox. I knew subscribing to you was a good idea

[@properprinting]

Only the best stuff happens here😆

[@petertillemans2231]

Belt and Suspenders is even better 😂

[@bami2]

Measure once, cut twice, hate life

[@Slake1]

edit: Measure once, cut twice, Repeat

[@contomo5710]

measure once, cut twice, reglue, cut again

[@jon8706]

I just ran water lines to the crawl space under my house where the water passes through a car radiator. The crawl space is always cool and the radiator is big enough that it doesn't even need fans. Best of all, my house doesn't get hot from the PC.

[@-r-495]

good idea. small heat exchangers are available and I didn’t find the water cooling to be too expensive. KVM is probably the best solution but it ain’t cheap either.

[@bkdbkd]

that sounds awesome. would love to see a video on that.

[@magnuswf]

Pretty cool. You just use a pump made for pc water cooling or what?

[@FilamentStories]

This was just the best video to watch. Jon, your projects are great to follow-along with you, but it's your storytelling and production, and of course your willingness to laugh at yourself that puts everything just so enjoyable to watch unfold. Sweet computer silence mode you have going now. I definitely want an adjustable desk now as well!

[@properprinting]

Thanks you very much Courtney!

[@BV3D]

Jon, this was 100% an emotional rollercoaster, and 100% worth the watch. Thanks!

[@properprinting]

Thanks Bryan!

[@timha4102]

Maybe The Real Treasure Was the Friends We Made Along the Way.

[@chrislewandoski3383]

I really liked this video. I feel so much better about my project mishaps and disasters when I see someone with more skills than I have running into the same problems. Plus, the over-engineering to solve a PC cooling is such a relatable problem. Forget 3 lefts to make a right, this was like 11. You got stuck in the roundabout for an hour and a half forgetting where you're going, when the ultimate solution was fixing the PC's cooling.

[@Daxis834]

You better do a tutorial on how to do an infill image. It looked so good!

[@AwesomeSaussage]

Hell yes please!!

[@Guardian_Arias]

Its easily done by using multiple objects, to start with use a solid box that will act as your frame. For this item only set the top and bottom layers to 0 and then set infill to about 10% grid works best for this application. Then place the individual objects with in your frame like the face, glasses, or any other objects and for all of those individual items set the infill to a varying level of infill to give depth such as 20%, 30%, and so to give you different levels of shading. I've printed my own meshes for a number a things for over 3 years. Vase mode combined with brim on inside only is a great way to make lamp shades for around the home.

[@Medio2507]

When you own a high quality 3d printer it just becomes like a hammer that fits every nail.

[@bitsRboolean]

I'd like to think that for the time/money you could have just added liquid cooling and changed out the fans but then we never would have gotten this amazing video! Absolute respect.

[@Phynellius]

hilarious how after all that effort you changed the fans and it was more quiet out of the box than the old system had been in it, still an awesome project

[@MattGrayYES]

I was not expecting to laugh out loud watching this but you got me four times

[@properprinting]

I can hear you laughing reading this comment😆

[@MattGrayYES]

@@properprinting TBF if someone told me they could hear me laugh 350km away I’d probably believe them.

[@alejandrotaudil3689]

The satisfaction of pressing the button and having everything work is all joy and bliss.

[@PrometheusFreedom]

...a whole engineering plan... when you just needed to go into bios and adjust your fan speed xD

[@jerrygrimes8813]

Another engineer here - reducing sound radiation is not a simple task. (Sauce, specified and worked with sound-measurement anechoic chambers.) The principal you're looking for is called mass loading. For every doubling of the mass per unit area of a wall, the sound transmission is reduced by 6 dB. For reference, the human ear needs 3 dB difference to even be detectable, but it's logarithmic. For a thing to "sound" half as loud, it needs about 10 dB reduction. Your ikea box walls need to have their mass per unit area quadrupled to reduce the sound by 12 dB. There are products you can apply to do that (foam-backed, mass-loaded-vinyl for example). It's really hard to do what you were trying to do. Oh, and any openings kill the performance. A gap of a fraction of an inch would virtually negate the effect of a really heavy sound reduction box. So, ventilation is a nightmare. It's FAR preferable if at ALL possible to simply reduce the source noise level. Which, of course, you did eventually find out. Still, I love the work you did!

[@TechHunterOfficial]

I watched this whole video. At the beginning I was just like, "fool, just buy a case with some actual ventilation and airflow and some lower RPM fans". At the end of the video I subscribed as this was just so EXTRA and I'm here for whatever this mans brain comes up with!

[@RoddyPerry]

Just wow. Love the work and the results but most of all the honesty. The fact that he develops this solution to the mm accuracy IN the cabinet to then realise that it doesn't quite fit under the desk is priceless. Impossible not to identify myself with this 😂

[@marsgizmo]

Your dedication to "cinematic" filming is next level! Pretty impressive👏

[@louie4286]

Cinematic Engineering at its finest!

[@dragosB]

My man spent so much time making so many desings :) in the end just to make the pc quiet by itself :)) Respect

[@Madblaster6]

It sounds like the the fans were set wrong PWM or DC and they were constantly running full speed.

[@Lonestar_GER]

23:48 "Yes, I'm realizing that things are escalating a bit here." was the nail in the coffin for me .... 🤣 So fucking relatable. You, sir, just got yourself a new subscriber.

[@pavelino17]

Way easier would have been to let the PC auto start after power outage (setting in BIOS) and then control the power with a smart socket. That's what I do and works perfect.

[@hen3drik]

I really like the creative approaches! Thanks for being part of the project 😃

[@squelchstuff]

Beautiful work. You have a new subscriber.

[@hen3drik]

@@squelchstuff 😃

[@prashmakes]

Incredible work as always!

[@MrVenat0r]

The janky table saw *chefs kiss*

[@DaftDude]

I want to applaud you, for consistently creating enjoyable videos. I always look forward to your video postings. Your editing, ideas and execution of your insane ideas are mile above what all the other content creators in the 3d printing realm are creating. You have the best 3d printing content on youtube by miles!

[@paka7602]

Hello friend, you could have: 1- sold your very noisy computer 2- bought a quiet new pc 3- enjoyed your coffee much earlier! Like me right now with my tea ;) But I Always admire your creations :)

[@michealkinney6205]

So moral of the story is first to try a different cooling solution, lol. Great video, there's no better way to learn than to try. And thanks for sharing, it was a fun project to watch. Best!

[@tomasitoalonso6401]

After the whole journey, the last 20 seconds were the best. I had to laugh so hard

[@MrHeHim]

this whole video was about an open case design, inside a case 🥰

[@Ndriu]

16:00 Inside, I would use mounting foam faster and cheaper, but that's not what the project is about, the main goal is to have fun and learn new techniques. If the goal was quiet cooling, he would use water cooling or some other liquid.

[@chenkunnie]

That AIO wasn't underperforming, it's your bloody 14900k being a nuclear reactor that needs at least a 360 rad to cool

[@fro16883]

Did anyone else here figure that he was going to install the brown and tans at some point.. then realize that the whole project was a waste of time? I did lmao.

[@WayneEarls]

I cracked up when you redid the panel while looking at the camera LOL

[@ywsx6489]

Instead of getting a bigger case so you can use larger and/or more quiet fans, lets build a case for the case.

[@bikalimark]

5 Things you need for a silent build: - FANCONTROL - Many, big fans, runing at extremely low RPM - More heatsink/radiator than your part needs - All the airflow (you'll definitelly need a bigger case to be able to cool the 14900K). - Remove sound dampening for more airflow. As a system integrator it took me a few similar bad decisions to find out that there's no way to "soundproof" a PC. You can make it dead silent though... (Pretty much the only part you can't quiet down any other way are the hard drives, but nowadays it's easy to go full SSD on your workstation and you totally should put a NAS somewhere else anyway). What you need is "just a bit above enough" cooling via heatsinks, and good airflow optimization. That way with proper fan control you can get absolute silence during regular use, and maaaybe some sound during a heavy load like exporting/rendering. There's pretty much no way to dampen the sound properly without sacrificing airflow that is a lot more important. To the specifics: - For the CPU, get a liquid cooler that's almost overkill for you cpu, (in your case there's pretty much no such thing as overkill because the 14900k is running like it has the depths of hell running in it) so go with something like an Arctic Liquid Freezer 360 or even 420. - For the GPU you generally just look at the datasheet and go with the heaviest card with the biggest heatsink and most heatpipes for the money. (Yours should be fine. Idk what GPU is in there but that card is quite a chonk.) - FANS. MORE FANS. You need preferably 140 fans and at least 3 intakes and 2 outputs. Noctuas are great and all, but Arctic's new P14 MAX fans are close to being the same for a fraction of the price, there's a 5 pack, grab that (and maybe 2 fan splitters with that). Fan placement: You'll probably need a new case to fit it all. One that can have 3 intakes in the front (/bottom), and have enough space for your 360 or 420 rad on the top. While we're at it, your radiator in this case should be on the output side for sure. You don't want that extreme heat output from that 14900k to cook all your other components too. Configure your fan headers in a way that you have your inputs and outputs on separate headers, so later you can control them indipendently. FAN CONTROL: ...download Fancontrol by Rem0o. An extremely handy and easy to use software that enables advanced fan control. Here's the general idea of configuration: - The secret sauce: Add 2 "Time Avarage" custom sensors. One for the CPU one for the GPU. Set them to 30-60 seconds. This will prevent all temperature fluctuation related unnecessary fan speedups. - Add 2 "Graph" fan curves using the AVG sensors as inputs. - For the first point choose a minimum operating speed, about 20-40% or where the fans are running at around 500-900rpm which should be close to absolute silence. The temperature you set this point to should be the "activation temperature" at which you start "actively" cooling your system. I usually set it to 50-60C°. - The second point on you graph is going to be the max that defines your "fan curve aggression". I'd recomend starting off with 100%, 100C° (it's not going to reach that temp don't worry), put the system under load and use this second point to change the "curve"s steepness to where the temps are in the comfortable(GPU under 80, CPU under 90) range with the lowest possible fan speed. EXTRAS: Case pressure: You should always have more input air than output, creating positive pressure, preventing unfiltered air leaking into your rig through gaps. Filtering: Make sure that you choose a case with mesh panels and removable dust filters, they make maintenace easier. (When having enough filtered air input space, make sure to block all other unfiltered gaps and holes that might be on your case panels, to again prevent unfiltered airflow.) PSU: Get a high efficiency psu, with preferably a lowspeed/off fan function. Whenever a fanblade is facing a grill or mesh (usually on the input side), make sure there's at least 5mm clearance (you can print a spacer) to prevent noise. Rad push-pull: if it fits in your case, put a fan on both sides of the radiator for more efficient cooling. ... i just wanted to point out a few things but it kinda got a bit longer, I hope it ends up being helpfull for anyone.

[@ua420]

Would be cool to see Dutch people finally disover AC someday

[@PhtevenTheDuck]

If it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing. This is the most ridiculous solution to a minor problem I've ever seen, and I loved every second of it. Massive kudos!

[@user-rs7tv5lq5v]

I know you wont see this, but the front of your case was choking the water cooler, that was probably the main issue

[@TheCreat]

I'm currently building a 3D-printed NAS case, specifically the "Modcase MASS", which exists in a free and paid version. It also uses infill for air filters and it really does work great. Their models come in 2 parts, one for the structure and one for the filters (overlapping of course, so the connect) and use different print settings for the filters: no perimeters, no top/bottom layers and infil-% with grid pattern depending on nozzle sizes (usually 40% for 0.4mm). As for your build: my god that's an awesome and appropriately over-engineered solution, it's just glorious! Side note: your fans alone cost more than my entire case combined.

[@Odwalla_YT]

Man... I love this. This is exactly the process I go through anytime I need to solve a problem. Thank you for pulling back that shameful curtain and validating all of us that struggle with this same thing 😂

[@802Garage]

Not the video we expected, but the video we needed.

[@TheUnrealPownament]

Noctua loves this content

[@joetkeshub]

like usual BEAUTIFULLY OVERKILL

[@CadeTiPhone]

I've been using the infill-as-mesh for a few projects now and absolutely love how they turn out. Laptop fan filters, 40mm R Pi coolers, and some 3d printer additions that really give an amazing look. Much happier with it than when I tried to model in mesh back a few years ago.

[@kaislate]

The squishy white grills and the cable passthrough grommets were my favorite part of this video.

[@dragade101]

Your 4 ropes that are holding up the PC, rope will want to creep gradually. Hopefully those stopper knots are all mighty

[@Petch85]

I normally would suggest people to reduce the sound emission before trying to dampen in. But clearly it makes a much better video the other way around. 😂 There were so many cool ideers in this one video. I fucking loved it. 👍

[@nilslin]

That is one proper computer cabinet and an equally proper power button! The best part, however, is the insiring journey! Thanks!

[@atzukak1]

You sir, made yourself a place in my class materials for the definition of overengineering a solution.

[@barronvonanus]

I love this channel you are the most entertaining teacher ive had in years ......your vids are ones i genuinley cannot wait to watch ....

[@sannyassi73]

Nifty project! I built myself a sound proof box for a compressor recently- the thing is way louder than any PC, it's deffening. It's still loud but it works- makes a significant difference. For me, it's basically just a box with some foam on the inside with as many extra pillows and blankets as possible on the outside- it's got a mini box fan intake and an air outlet to keep it cool. I use it for air assist while laser cutting/engraving so it runs a lot when I'm doing a job.

[@JanTec3D]

Its hard to believe that this is “just a KZbin video“. Love the editing, music, shots and story telling. Great job Jon!

[@Franckie.G]

What a video very inspiring ! thank you for your work .

[@marcelhh2101]

Fantastisch, zo herkenbaar!

[@drixom9805]

great video I love seeing your design philosophy. When you were talking about the filters and the failures I was already yelling just use infill. Not even going to ridicule you about trying to cool an i9 with a 240mm radiator. combining you with abs is a cool idea. the whole project turned out amazing.

[@imnotj3sus]

Overengineering is the best type of content, imo. Thank you, man. It was cool and a little hilarious)

[@its_generik]

Those cable grommets... jesus christ that is SO SMART 👏😭 fantastic.

[@haplopeart]

I love this project. I’ll probably do something similar to quiet my printers. I’ve been trying to dream up something similar, but this gives me lots of new possibilities.

[@hunter_quotus]

Completely ridiculous, but utterly fantastic! Loved this very much indeed!

[@nathanwest2304]

sure, you can do this, but I just installed the Noctua NH-D15 maintenance free, quiet and more than good enough

[@Chad.The.Flornadian]

I just love watching your videos. It seems like each one is more entertaining yet more informative than the last. Honestly, because of this I watch all your videos, even if it's something I'm not into (like resin printing) cause I know it'll be a fun video and time well spent. Keep pumping out great content! P.S. I SOOO wish I had a remote power button for my PC. It's a bit of a stretch to reach it under my desk.

[@simontopley4771]

I had really good results using products from a company called Silent PCs, or similar, it was a long time ago, using thermostatically controlled fans, large fans decoupled from the case with rubber mounts, sound deadening foam used for sound insulation in the car world, and while not really silent as such, have been more than satisfactory for my needs.

[@smokeduv]

For the meshed grills you can buy the mesh and then put it in the printed bed and print the grills and then you have an integrated mesh

[@hermankopinga]

I'm left in awe about this work. Thank you for sharing!

[@thomasvnl]

Well, what did we expect. The channel is called "Proper Printing", not "proper furniture making". That furniture panel is the most sturdy resource on that entire cabinet :')

[@333donutboy]

I give a all the credit in the world for sticking with that project. I would have just got some long cables and stuck it in a closet.

[@andrewhood1290]

Please provide more information on how you used infill to create your screen/filter. That looks like it would have many applications.

[@Ryanstamey]

I never comment on videos, but this is the first one I have seen of yours and you are hilarious. Definitely have my sub and like. Keep it up!

[@AlexComanM]

As a very early subscriber of yours, it's amazing to see where you get, and it's also very comforting to see that even a pro like you makes mistakes and has to reprint or recut something(which happens to me all the time, haha)

[@Ray045x]

This video shows the essence of engineering. I mean, overthinking about a proyect and then find a better, cheaper and easier way to do it xd

[@tobiaszeu]

I love over-engineering! I used a simpler method that includes Moonlight/Sunshine streaming. Currently, I use an old X280 ThinkPad with a dock and dual monitors on my desk for casual use, and when I need performance, I just stream from my PC, which is now under the desk but will be placed in the different room in near future. Overall great content as usual!

[@marossojka4907]

Great video as usual ! I turn my PC on automatically when power is connected. Every motherboard have this setting :)

[@liamthedevastator]

When you did your first cut of the furniture board I was thinking "Man, bro should get a right angle ruler" and felt vindicated, yet sad, when you put the panel on the cabinet and saw that it didn't match. Great video mate.

[@IvanGreguricOrtolan]

You probably figured but for a sound proof design you need tick MDF and Mass Loaded Vinyl. The opening should have a labyrinth style tunnel with walls covered in triangular foam to scatter sound while it tries to escape.

[@ferencgaborsimon245]

Dude, you are my spirit animal! I also have small projects like that with crazy MacGyver solutions. Smaller scale of course but it was Epic to see someone who is similarly crazy as me! Great Video!

[@danieldc8841]

I used that infill trick to make a diffraction grating to focus a telescope, it worked really well

[@donjohnson7746]

Man, your projects and creativity is always fun to watch.

[@radicalreel]

The power button is very nice. Doubted the cabinet from the start of the video but still watched to the end as your videos are always very entertaining and very well made.

[@ryanbox30]

Super vet om te zien dat jij casual zit te bellen met Integza. Ook jouw humor met de naam van je TeringDikke20TB schijf kon ik erg om lachen. Elke keer toffe videos. Dank je wel

[@andrew2004sydney]

Great ideas and teaching about 3D printing. For the noise, put your PC in another room with Active Optical Cables (AOC) for HDMI and one USB extension lead.

[@louie4286]

3:57 I'm dead. That was literally me, but instead of wood doing tile the other day.

[@l3lue7hunder12]

This is one of the best "how to NOT do it" videos out there. Much appreciated. 🤣 Anyhow, I recommend you simple put your entire PC into a different room, connecting your usb devices and screens using fiber optical cables such as AOC DisplayPort, Fiber HDMI and Fiber USB. Add in an USB hub, and two such cables should suffice.

[@10000276249]

Just investing in a halfway decent AiO or high end Air cooler, with decent undervolting, rational power limits and you get the system super quiet without an enclosure

[@LelandHasGames]

It's not over engineered. It's exactly how it's supposed to be.

[@DizioTech]

Could you detail a bit more on that infill technique for the dust filters? I'm trying to achieve something similar for speakers and this method could save me a lot of time

[@varazir]

There is a option in the BIOS to start when the PC get power again. If you have home automation or just a power connect plug you can control with a switch

[@properprinting]

Good to know!

[@iamdmc]

been doing this since 2017 using TP Link Kasa smart plugs You can also buy wireless power buttons commercially if you want to have that option

[@gatzetech3079]

Jou zelfspot is on top haha. Jou video's laten altijd zo mooi zien hoeveel moeite het kost om iets van scratch te maken, maar des te meer de voldoening!

[@Dingo89]

Love the way you do things. Kick starting a saw like that had me burst out in laughter.

[@Del_UK]

People who make mistakes, learn and change. People who never make mistakes, never learn and never change. Great video.👍

[@Bobby11]

Thats alot of work. But now you have an awesome power button !

[@Petch85]

As someone that hates unnecessary sound my tip is to run all fans at a relatively low RPM. For 120 mm fans if you can rund them at 500-700 RPM most fans will be relatively silent. I set my fan control, such that my fans slowly ramp up in speed and never exceeds 1100 RPM under normal use. Then I have a emergency setting with all fans full speed if temps get above an unacceptable level. I go overkill on heating area. It is expensive the rist time, but it can be reused. Om my current setup I am running 2 3x120 mm radiator. But my CPU only uses about 120 W, thus it is super overkill. But silent. Other tips for a low noise system. If you can add 5-10 mm of air between the fan and the radiator/grill or what ever, it can reduce the noise. Make sure your fans are not all running at the exact same speed (assuming you are using the same fans in the same size), if possible separate the fanspeed with steps of ~+-50-100 RPM. This spread the noise over are larger frequency range and make it less annoying. Make sure you fans do not change speed fast. I am adjusting fan speed according to my water temp, and that will always change slowly, do to the large thermal mass of the water. If you are controlling your fans using CPU temp, or CPU utilization some fan controllers can add some inertia to the ramp up and down, such that the fan speed changes slowly over af few seconds. Say 10 s. Use rubber mounts on your fan (and old school HD's) to avoid vibrations into the tower. And have damping material on the large panels if the tower such that any vibrations gets dampened. (many towers comes with this as default, but if you have a glass panel this is not an option.) Even with all this, you may still be unlucky and your pc may make coil whine noise. It can be super hard to find the exact component making the noise thuse a box like this would help against that. But you need to make sure the new fans don't just add new sound, and the box needs to remove as much air as the tower can, cause you don't want to recycle the air inside the box. The wireless start button really makes the box idea genius 👍

[@kodguerrero]

Mag lev fans are a treasure. I have 7 and I can sleep with my PC on, two feet away

[@flatlander4920]

My parents live in Vlagtwedde (Blijham) and I always thought: Nothing ever happens in Vlagtwedde I stand corrected! Subscribed

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

Awesome video. Great music. Glad you walk through the process.