This Old Tony in 3D!!! (printing)

[@colinfurze]

I've had a Taz 6 for a while now, some projects it gets used for but then can sit idle for ages as I like Tony am more a metal person, but its a good machine and prints rarely fail. top work TOT as usual.

[@netsch20]

I'm surprised this is the first time I've seen you in TOT's comments, he's exactly the kind of person I imagine you watching lol

[@GunGryphon]

They do take up a lot of space, kinda wish they could just drop down from a hatch in the ceiling...

[@Dymitr_Nawrocki]

I think it's better for you to use metal, pulse jets and PLA are not meant for eachother. It would be interesting to see 3d printed pulse jet though.

[@xxxxxxxxxxx82]

Mr Furze, here getting his fix of craziness from TOT 😁 LOVE YA BOTH! 😉👍

[@xxxxxxxxxxx82]

@@ashbynathana not quite, only just gone midnight buddy 😉

[@cadman9768]

thing I'm most impressed with is how many prints you got off it before finishing building it ;)

[@aaronbuildsa]

That's the Time Travel Lathe for you..

[@mmazz30]

He printed the parts for the second build.

[@shinigami388]

@@aaronbuildsa wait so he has a Minila The AND a Time Travel Athe?

[@bentlikeitsmaker]

May want to get some super lube grease

[@StuffMadeHere]

3D printing is the best and a great compliment to machined & welded parts. Hit me up if you want to get your hands on some engineering grade resin printed parts!

[@nolzy2359]

Love your videos mate. Keep it up :D

[@KevinRamirez-nk7cu]

It's the basketball man on a TOT video!

[@peterw1534]

How are you not verified?

[@EAGLINWRX]

@@peterw1534 he is now😉

[@themuffinfish2091]

God i would love a colab

[@freshpootube]

That organising tray is the most useful thing I've ever seen come out of a 3D printer.

[@markusbart8092]

Then maybe stop scrolling through pinterest and instagram or whatever those kids use nowadays. ;) Lots of clamps and holders and adapters and cases are being printed out there every day...

[@ale6242]

@@markusbart8092 I dont have the space for any size mill or laythe. So a 3D printer is perfect for my makery needs! i've made SO many practical things with it. its an amazing tool!!

[@zakattack721]

If you visit the functional prints area on Reddit there's thousands of examples.

[@TheBrokenLife]

I use 3D printers 90% of the time to make fixtures to make other parts from. For instance, if you have a 3D printer, you have an unlimited supply and variety of router jigs.

[@HorochovPL]

I would print it with solid base and some infill, just because I wouldn't have thought about printing it this way.

[@MadeWithLayers]

Welcome aboard!

[@g0balot]

Never thought I'd see you on this channel! Welcome Tom. This Old Tony with a MK3s! Warms the cockles of my heart.

[@SianaGearz]

@@g0balot He made so many little nods and references to TOT over the years in his videos though. Really you shouldn't be :D

[@dhupee]

@@g0balot his latest sponsor transition is so genius, he took the style from TOT, I like it

[@GGGG_3333]

Another one bites the "filament" 🤣😂

[@dhupee]

@@GGGG_3333 and remember when tom drink the orange resin?

[@free_spirit1]

"in the time it took to print I could have driven to the store and bought one" Didn't you once machine an entire coffee pot?

[@jeffbanfieldsflwr3537]

Mic drop

[@wades623]

Shots fired but then the aft shows up because you know

[@AnOriginalYouTuber]

No one calibrates a 3d printer like a machinist.

[@Aklemvaeo]

I built mine mostly on my basement carpet. First print was totally fine! Must have got lucky.

[@TheProfessorAggressor]

Moisture Patrol it’s well known that basement carpet can be a perfectly good substitute for a surface plate

[@FUCK_________googIe]

Dude, for fking real. His prints are incredibly high resolution considering the machine he's using. Right off the bat he is already maximizing the capabilities of that printer, it takes most people a year or more to get where he started. That skull looks like it came off of a $3,000 machine

[@oarnaur]

@@FUCK_________googIe what do you mean? It’s a prusa. Of course the prints look good.

[@skelten454]

@@Aklemvaeo Don't really need that much precision bc the tolerances of the printed parts are not usually determined by how square the frame is.

[@TheOneAndOnlyCrawl]

Hi Tony, as someone who's currently working with 3D printers as part of my masters theory and designing and creating parts for people at the institute i'm at, besides it being a hobby of mine and therefore spending quite a bit of time with them, I have some advice for you. -If you ever want to get into creating CAD model for printing parts that are supposed to fit together, always add between a third and half of your nozzle size to your tolerances. Especially when adding threads to models, I'd recommend shaving 0,1-0,15 mm (based on the material and machine you are using) off the edges of the treads in the model before printing so you don't have to recut them. -When designing vertical features, try to make their size and position a multiple of your layer hight. -If you want to increase the mechanical strength of your parts, less cooling is the way to go. -Always align your parts in a way where the highest expected stresses and strains are in the xy-plane because parts show anisotropic material behavior. -Unsupported overhangs can be printed up to an angle of 45° with little to no problems. Above that support material should be considered because the outermost line is placed o more air than material and can droop. Holes with less than 1/3" can go unsupported everything above that at the very least will look better if support material is added. -And most importantly: Have fun!

[@jacobhargiss3839]

This is stuff I wish I'd heard when I started.

[@noatreiman]

I use Ultimaker Cura slicer and I’m pretty sure it calculates the layer heights to match the height of your vertical features. It’s always been nearly exactly right for me. Not sure about other slicers.

[@joshmaceachern7383]

For tensile loads its best to be in the XY plane, but compressive loads should be directed along the z-axis. Otherwise splitting is likely as the layer adhesion is likely where it will fail.

[@Kitsyfluff]

@@noatreiman This is true, but if you're lazy or sloppy with the design, you might force Cura to compromise the part because it needed a fractional layer. it leads to small distortions in your part, so if you want precision, planning ahead in CAD is the way to go.

[@TheOneAndOnlyCrawl]

​ @Jacob Hargiss 3D printing can have a steep learning curve at the beginning and I think although there is a lot of good content on based on selecting your first printer, modifying it, learing how to print different filaments and figuring outthe parameters, improving the quality of your prints and what cool models people made, there is very little that teaches you how to design parts for additive manufacturing, what limitations a "limitless potential technology" actually has and how to plan around them. @Noah T Cura is a smart program, however sometimes it tries to compensate your "mistake" in a way that creates unforeseen new problems. I prefer making all the decisions myself because if things go wrong, I know who to blame, why it went wrong and I get to learn how to fix it. If the silcer always fixes your "mistakes" until one day it doesn't, it's hard to say why it worked all the other times and not this time.

[@savage6394]

It’s worth EVERY penny just for the being able to print new tool holding inserts like you built.

[@stefantrethan]

Ha! You didn't get me this time Tony! Trying to tempt me to buy stuff I never even knew I needed, like that TIG welder, or the freaking 1.5 ton mill in the garage. But not this time, oh no Tony, not this time! I already _HAVE_ a 3D printer! And I am well ahead of you on the never using it part. What do you say to THAT?!

[@korumann]

I already have one but he still is pretty close to convincing me

[@stefantrethan]

@@korumann It did cross my mind for a second to get a trouble-free one, I won't lie. But only for a second.

[@sp00nesis]

well the main thing is, if you are willing and able to design things yourself, then with that skill, you can have an idea, model it, and start the print soon thereafter. But, that super skims over getting to the place where you can print consistent quality, it does take some doing, whether it's buying and assembling quality stuff and/or learning the "speeds and feeds" of certain materials for the parts you want. Worth it if you have a need and/or interest in it.

[@millomweb]

Are you selling the 1.5 ton mill ?

[@stefantrethan]

@@millomweb Nah I'm still in the buying tools for it phase so I can not-use-it for even more stuff in the future!

[@pancake_crab4457]

Welcome Tony to THE THIRD DIMENSION! Some friendly advice from someone with a few years of printing experience: 1. Beware temperature. Don't keep your printer in the garage in winter. The cold air will make warping a whole lot more problematic. Printers, like people, get cranky if their cold. 2. Beware moisture. Some filaments absorb moisture and won't print well. Granted it will take a while and depends on the type, brand, flavour, and horoscope sign of the filament. 3. Add a filament duster to your printer. Something like a piece of sponge in a clip or something. It helps keep crap out of the nozzle and extruder. 4. Get a few replacement endstops and bearings. Sometimes the switches break (one of mine did), and the small bearings might get lost if you ever remove them for repairs or upgrades. 5. Avoid cheap filament. Avoid it like you owe it money but don't want to pay yet. 6. Prepare to make stupid keychains and nicknacks for everyone you know for the next two months. Then the novelty will wear off and you can get back to real work. 7. Whatever you design and print, design it FOR printing, and orient it to print properly. Don't waste 7 hours printing a ruler vertically when it takes 20 minutes to print horizontally. 8. Slap warning stickers on it or put it in an enclosure if your kids haven't learned not to touch your tools yet. 9. If you put it in an enclosure, try to put the electronics outside of it so they don't get too hot. 10. Always remember we love you.

[@TreyCook21]

Great suggestions and hilarious post! Some AvE stickers would make a good addition. Thinking of the 'No dumb area: Do not dumb here'.

[@PatrickClarkKD0IFR]

This is great advice, and I'll second and reinforce the moisture control advice. Wet filament has been my number 1 problem over the years (I don't go through spools fast enough to leave them out). Make yourself a dry storage box or a dry filament dispenser. You won't regret it.

[@0or273Kelvin]

Great advice, agree to everything but have to add something. 11. PETG and flexibels bond exxesivly well to the PTFE sheet, to the point where you rip it of when you try to remove your print. Use the provided glue stick to coat the printing bed befor printing theese aterials.

[@theX24968Z]

ima just wait till these printers solve all these problems without needing homebrewed hacks

[@poisonouslead85]

@@theX24968Z Just buy a more expensive machine. Heated PEI bed with an enclosure and ball screws to drive the Z-axis. The ballscrews alone in my machine cost as much as the machine in video. That's not to flex, that's to demonstrate the variety of machines that are available. Gucci filament like nylon, Zytel, and ASA are all hygroscopic in their raw form. You vacuum bag the stuff when it's not in use. No big deal. Also always use glue stick on your bed. It's a great release agent and it's water soluble.

[@DustinCorbin]

"You'd think the type of person inclined to buy a 3d printer, let alone the unbuilt kit, would probably have tools like these already" As someone who ran tech support for a 3D printer company for a few years, I learned that people who buy kits either have all the tools and experience already, or they have absolutely no tools or electronics experience at all. And our kits were a lot more 'assembly required', heck they barely came with instructions back then. Oddly enough, I didn't get that many complaints from people who were new to it, those types were very interested and willing to learn. Everyone from 12 year old kids, to 90+ year old retirees. The most difficult people were the "I'm a professional engineer of 20 years and this is all completely wrong, this is IMPOSSIBLE to build..." etc. It is all about attitude.

[@spambot7110]

"oh really what field?" turns out they're like a civil engineer or an acoustical engineer or some other unrelated-to-machines field

[@adriansaidan1736]

@@spambot7110 sorry I didn't realize how trivial and menial it is to design skyscrapers and bridges.

[@spambot7110]

@@adriansaidan1736 no dumbass, engineering is divided into fields because they're all so complex that you can't expect one person to understand all of it. you become good as an engineer by focusing your knowledge on what you're good at, which necessarily leaves you ignorant about other fields. inter-disciplinary knowledge is good and all but part of being a good engineer is knowing what you don't know.

[@reaperreaper5098]

@@adriansaidan1736 His point isn't that it's trivial, his point is that it's not really a related field where knowledge directly transfers. If that knowledge did directly transfer, why would we need distinct specialized fields?

[@jameshansen1903]

"Now I can add it to my 'good' pliers collection," is the cattiest thing I've ever heard you say. I couldn't stop laughing.

[@SuodesTzeos]

that was a real LMAO moment

[@travisjicorcoran5870]

Same!

[@Robertlavigne1]

Yeah I spat tea on that one

[@Gu1tarZer0]

same haha

[@mobetta3998]

@@Robertlavigne1 !! You too?!?

[@AHustleIsLikeASideOfFries]

I love my 3D printer. Most shop people look down on them, think they're only for printing baby Yodas and stuff like that. However, it makes a great addition to my shop. Recently I printed an awesome Milwaukee-to-Ryobi battery adapter. I have only 1 Ryobi battery now, but the guy I share a shop with has 3 for his various Milwaukee tools. Time to borrow some batteries! Have also recently printed table saw insert plates, a new switch cover plate for my radial arm saw, a replacement button for my screen door handle, cell-phone-to-camera-tripod holder, anything that's ok in plastic. I keep saying I'm going to build a small aluminum foundry and do some lost-PLA casting, I may someday...

[@court2379]

I haven't been successful at it yet, but supposedly a microwave oven works well for melting aluminum. You line the cabinet with fire brick, and put some silicone carbide or other material in to absorb the microwaves. I tried just the aluminum in a crucible, but it does not absorb very well and after ten minutes the entire cabinet is getting pretty hot. There are lots of simple gas furnace designs out there, and electric resistance ones will melt aluminum as well. The biggest challenge I have had making the castings is probably burning out the mold. You really have to get it fully burned out, or it creates gas during the pour and ruins your part. I plan to build a chamber that sits on top of a gas furnace (not as hot as the furnace) that I can use the heat from the furnace for preheating the molds, and burnout.

[@dfailsthemost]

Printing a baby yoda! Genius

[@anneinfurna8528]

Interesting thing to know-- As far as the lost PLA casting -- I tried an experiment using Styrofoam, I carved up a smallish block of it, packed it in Loose Sand -- Yes Loose Sand, and as the metal was pouring in, it displaced and obviously burned up the Styrofoam, and the casting came out good. AND This Was Cast iron!!!

[@poisonouslead85]

Dude, garage ECM. Buy a laboratory power supply, 3d print your wire and part holding jigs, get a bucket of water and some tubing.

[@Roblecop]

One thing I think your channel has showed me more than anything, is the importantance and usefulness of a surface plate. I need to track one down that I can get for a decent price. Even assembling a 3D printer can benefit from a surface plate letting you know just how square it really is. Great video TOT!

[@Tmanolis]

"Granite surface plate". Looking at Ender-3 sitting on a cushion topped stool in the corner.

[@Matevz96]

Just what I was thinking, I assembled it on kitchen table...

[@3dpyromaniac560]

Assembled one on my lap here

[@nicholasamadori2577]

Wobbly Ikea table that flexes if you look at it too hard. That was my "reference surface" 😂

[@FUKTxProductions]

i use and paving plate 3 inches thick i got for less than $4 at the hardware store garden section and the day later i found the exact same kind in the alley next to my place and tbh the sound went from 70db to less than 30db with my clunky ender 2

[@nicholasamadori2577]

@@FUKTxProductions saw that on Teaching Tech IIRC. The problem is that those are great if your printer is in a garage or a workshop, but ugly if it is inside your home office. Maybe painted or with some kind of coating or lining... By the way, the best upgrade for the Ender 3 is an SKR mini. Motors went totally silent, no noise whatsoever. Yoi can't tell if it is still or printing sitting 3 feet away.

[@aga5897]

The 'Benchy' print precisely shows that you are now the proud owner of a 3D printer and a small plastic boat.

[@cursedcliff7562]

Packs bearings, levels frame on a surface plate and checks it with an indicator... *and wonders how the prints came out so good* seriously amazing, tony

[@bitluni]

Can't believe you didn't get one before. But I assume why taking something made of plastic if you can make it from stainless steel already

[@ringding1000]

As an old toolmaker with a Prusa printer, there are things I've designed and made with my printer that would have either taken weeks to make or would have literally been impossible to make. And there are many things that plastics are superior for. It will never replace a machining center, but it is a process that has it's place in design and even manufacturing these days.

[@muskokamike127]

@@ringding1000 I saw a "Plant" in China that runs something like 500 3d printers all at once. You send them the part you want, and they price it out and print it up. For low quantity runs, it is far more economical than injection molding considering some molds will cost you $100,000.00 and up. The next big thing will be the metal 3d printing (cold). What they do is have steel or aluminum powder mixed in with the plastic so when you are printing, the plastic is the binder for the metal powder. It's supposed to have the same strength as T6 aluminum but don't quote me on that.

[@throngcleaver]

And don't forget, they were printing huge aircraft wing spars in titanium, (SLS) and there are companies in America that will print your models in any type of printable plastic, and certain metals. Shapeways is one I've used for metal parts that I couldn't machine or fabricate in my shop.

[@SocietyUnplugged]

Is it really unbelievable? 3D-printer are great, versatile and can be money savers. The necessity of 3D-printers in metal/machine shops is little to none. @Jonathan Allen: It depends on what you prototype. Prototyping your own idea to eventually produce and sell your own product is completely different from fabricating (prototyping) the idea of someone else. The former is done by plastic, the latter by machining metal.

[@kevinreardon2558]

I find you spend 90% of the time in software. Only when you are machining multiples do you see any time saving. A local theater group wanted guns so I printed up several 1911's and AR-15's. Once painted up, I was truly scared transporting them to the theater. If I got pulled over by a cop, he could have shot me after seeing that many weapons in the car.

[@marioghioneto1275]

Ohh yeah ToT never fails to make my day better

[@paulwomack5866]

To address an issue that is NOT the subject of this video: The blow moulded inserts that hold the parts in (e.g.) socket sets are really weak. But I saw a truly great tip. In a restore video the guy squirted builders insulating foam in the BACK side, and trimmed the excess flat when it had set. This provides really good support for the thin, weak plastic. Cheap, easy, effective. So - to give proper credit - it was Geoffrey Croker in NZ. Around 18:15 in this socket set restoration: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b4avhqprnNmtoJY

[@ashc5728]

Thats a Great Tip, in Australia, we call that stuff Expanda Foam

[@samc5898]

Very good idea. Going to do this to some of my sets tomorrow

[@WilliamRowan]

You'd be thinking of Geoffrey Croker's video where he restored the Stahlwille socket set. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b4avhqprnNmtoJY

[@paulwomack5866]

@@WilliamRowan you mean the guy I named, and the video I linked to? Yes, that's who I meant. Thanks for clarifying. 🤣

[@kissingfrogs]

@@ashc5728 In Australia we call that stuff raising the practical jokes bar. Spaceinvader ya mates toolbox and see just how deep the friendship goes.

[@tjejojyj]

“3D printing adds a whole new dimension to 2D printing” 😂

[@alexkart9239]

technically is not a 3d printing, but 2d printing repeated many-many times.

[@surajrathodsr8742]

Loll

[@brimster-valorantaggressiv3419]

@@alexkart9239 2d is actually 3d, cos ink has thickness. Point is, earth is flat

[@jamesdean7412]

@@surajrathodsr8742 qq

[@Sonicbolt456]

@@alexkart9239 They call it 2.5D. True 3D printing needs non-planar

[@SergTTL]

I lost it at the good pliers collection.

[@Guds777]

Tony is on a fast track into metal 3D printing, i can feel it.

[@TOASTEngineer]

That's unlikely, since those machines cost tens of thousands of dollars and no-one will sell you one without signing a contract to have them come out and inspect it every so often since the metal powder is so toxic.

[@gamemeister27]

He tried the thing with mounting a mig welder as a pseudo metal 3d printer in an early video

[@user-le8ul4nr5t]

2:10 That prinnting noise... I don't hear it often, but when I do, I'm trying to get my usb to serial adapter to work.

[@cambrown5633]

"Welcome to my shop! The router's over there, that's my milling machine, and over there is the bleached skull of the last guy I invited in here!"

[@firstmkb]

... of the last guy to not return a tool.

[@eric.is.online]

@@firstmkb Keep the 10mm in there as a solemn reminder

[@brianhaygood183]

"...and Maho is lying dead over there in that corner"

[@andriosz]

@@brianhaygood183 With mini lathe :(

[@f.d.6667]

Haha ... "the stuff people bring you all the time because you can fix things"...! That's so spot on. Right now I am printing a part for my neighbor's weed whacker... so he can annoy me with this thing while I am doing real work (sigh).

[@RonaldFinger]

I can tell you right now that budget printers absolutely need more attention. Granted, the “budget” one I got was $475 back in early 2013 when the 3D printing market and community isn’t what it is now. I have probably spent double that modifying and upgrading it over the past 7 years. Very much a ship of Theseus thing. I’ve heard that the budget printers today (CR-10, Ender 3) are pretty solid machines, but the Prusa seems to really have knocked it out of the park with quality and reliability.

[@pocholo151299]

Wow...nice to meet you here, big fan of you!!

[@michaelfletcher1694]

I got a cr10s as first printer and it printed straight out box, only problem is the well known “warped bed” but I just learnt where it’s warped and print around it haha

[@insayno9959]

@@michaelfletcher1694 Nothing 6 layers of foil in the centre couldn't fix for me. It was only supposed to be a temporary fix while I sourced a mirror. As with many of these things, its now 2 years laters, and, well, no mirror in sight.

[@TreyCook21]

Ronnie? Furze? Probably some others I haven't noticed yet? I'm quite sure we'll be seeing more TOT in 3D.

[@odriew5014]

I got an ender 3 recently. So far it works pretty good.

[@atlasvdrake951]

Last time I was this early, ToT was still stuck in a quantum time loop

[@Galerak1]

He might still be stuck in it, he was printing stuff off before he'd built it. I thought maybe ToT and Clickspring had been playing with the lathe again 😂

[@kisssys5414]

I use my Tormach about twice a month, my lathe maybe one or twice a week. I weld maybe once a month. I print 3d stuff 15 to 20 times a month and it's not uncommon to have my Taz5 and my Prusa Mk3 printing at the same time. You just have to remember it can work all night and you can wake up to a new toy so don't go to bed until it's printing something. Prusa was a good choice.

[@Nordern]

Using a Creality Ender 3 here, it's a brilliant one for beginners like me! Easy & quick to set up I have had some fan & fan bearing failures, so you might want to keep an eye on that and have replacements ready, personally i replaced the stock fans with Noctua fans for quiter operation, otherwise, it's really good

[@AlexKall]

Oh yes the Creality fans, great quality, will last at least 10 minutes without the bearings going to hell 😂 I've had to replace two fans (the third cooling the printed materiel seems to hold up but the one cooling the hotend and the one in the controller does not) , which Creality sent me, they have failed again soon after the swap 🙆‍♂️ so been looking at nocuta as well 😏

[@elesjuan]

@@AlexKall I'm going on 2 years and over 2000 hours on an ender 3 pro without a single failure that wasn't my fault. I put a bond tech extruder on it, and broke the fitting for the bowden tube off almost immediately. Otherwise this thing has operated flawless.

[@jenibond]

think i doing the 32bit new board for my ender 3 pro

[@ryankennedy3109]

​@@elesjuan Me too, I have yet to break anything after a few years of heavy use. That's how poor quality control works though: the best widgets are still great, but sometimes you find a lemon.

[@olik136]

I also have one--- almost never use it though...... mostly because I suck at fusion 360... and I keep having problems with getting the first layer to stick... and that tiny sd cart reader that came with it shorted all the usb ports on my pc...

[@JubMrJub]

No Tony, this is OUR channel now.

[@haydenc2742]

One of us! One of us! One of us!

[@MF175mp]

That's right, comrades

[@ducewags]

A Maho scrap chip melter to a metalergic squirt gun or tig, to a CNC Maho, to build CNC parts and tools for what is needed in life. We got your back Tony, Git-her-done. Thanks for the shows.

[@RichardGreco]

Wish I had 3D printed friends. Mine are always talking and stuff.

[@cswells212]

“I can add this to my good pliers collection” LMAO

[@ShopNation]

Tony great video as always and couldn't agree more about the Prusa recommendation. I just recommended your channel on one of my videos AND just did a Prusa build myself. I will admit your version was wildly more entertaining

[@jasonirwinme]

I found this channel from your recommendation. Great recommendation, love it. And you both posted a PRUSA build in the same week???

[@RyanTaylor-pi8gq]

1:52 ... it's attention to detail like that keeps me comin' back. kudos.

[@ochre6887]

now machine the 3d printed parts to have an "all aluminum printer"

[@elrancio60esbacan86]

Yes please, it would be hella expensive but really awesome

[@bradyoung6663]

I'd love to see that.

[@octap79]

Yes please!!!!!!!!!

[@zendesigner]

yes; cool idea

[@varmint243davev7]

I did that for my frame AM8, I machined brackets and mounts instead of printing them. really helped reliability and stability.

[@FUCK_________googIe]

What blows my mind is that tony was producing prints that look like they came off of a $3,000 machine ran by someone with a year of experience within his first few prints. INCREDIBLY impressive

[@pikepunk1]

Finally. Welcome to 2013. I am glad you found the practical use of printing. Fixing little things like the allen divider is 90% of what I use mine for. I also make custom caps for tube steel, or nylon bushings for mower wheels - things which do not need to be perfect.

[@bokkievatikaki5676]

Just saying. TOT squared up a block to prop up a broken foot on his recliner. I think this love relationship with a metric machine is opening him up for bigger tolerances. For love you are always prepared to compromise. LOL

[@buckstarchaser2376]

I too have that model and am quite enamored with it. A couple points I'd like to throw in there, are: 1) Get the upgraded plate with textures (at least about the time the included one starts losing its surface) and 2) The bed thermister wire will probably be the first thing to fatigue and fail, creating an opportunity for a video on repairing it. 3) [bonus point] If you have a problem, the company will probably want a video demonstrating it, but will then send replacement parts without trouble.

[@MartinFiltenborg]

Now that's a match made in heaven. You and 3D printning. A proper machinist reality check! I hope Josef Prusa will watch this, because your input comes 'from outside' and holds much goodness. Super!

[@Jmour99]

I may be able to speak to the budget side of 3D printing a bit. As a broke college student I don't have a whole lotta clams to spare, so my first printer was about as cheap as they come. Freshman year I bought an Anet A8, which is essentially a very cheap knockoff version of the printer featured in this video (acrylic frame instead of aluminum extrusions, no auto bed leveling, cheap aluminum build plate), but it set me back only 100 bucks. Took about a month to ship from china and 10 hours of assembly on my dorm room floor, but I can genuinely say that was the best $100 I've ever spent. Having any 3d printer opens up nearly endless possibilities, and the relative efficiency and affordability when compared to other forms of prototyping (woodworking/machining/clay modeling) is staggering when you really get into it. And while that printer would occasionally malfunction, I believe having to tune the machine and slicer settings to get good prints really helped me get a better understanding for the process of 3d printing. At my internship over the summer we had an Ultimaker S5 that cost literally 60 times what my first printer cost, and I while the dual extruder setup is cool, I think there is definitely a point of diminishing returns in there somewhere. I currently have a creality CR-10 (the big brother of the $200 Ender 3 mentioned in the video) which set me back about 400 bucks and I've had almost no issues so far. I think for the hobbyist market thats really the sweet spot; the 3-500 dollar range has a plethora of affordable and capable machines that offer a pretty solid introduction into one of the coolest emerging technologies of the 21st century.

[@bencesarosi7718]

Next up: Prusa metal printing conversion using TIG parts...

[@caerbannog]

He already did this with a mig and his cnc router 😊

[@blackbirdpolesystemsvancou5561]

Hello TOT! Ill add you to my list of 3d printed friends! You will find you will use your 3d printer more and more. I've had the same Pruse i3Mk for 2 years and use it weekly. The great thing about it is it is clean and quiet! You bring a lot of enjoyment to this world. Thank you. Take care

[@totallynotabot151]

"$700!!" exclaims the owner of multiple lathes & mills.

[@Lucas_sGarage]

I laught at the same bro hahahah

[@gamemeister27]

His full sized lathe was only $800!

[@NathanBatson]

So many different materials and diameters of hose adapters are in your future. I swear half my dust collection in my shop is 3D printed.

[@BEdmonson85]

Yeah, no kidding! I needed to replace an air hose fitting for my airbrush and all the hardware stores near me were closed. I pulled up Fusion360 and grabbed a couple models from McMaster Carr, modified and combined them to make what I needed, printed that out and it worked perfectly. So perfect indeed, I haven't even bothered to go get the brass parts I planned to use. It's been 2 years and it's still holding strong. Used Hatchbox black PLA.

[@NathanBatson]

@@BEdmonson85 I use the old reliable hatchbox Orange here. I had the exact same experience, but I was getting the dust collection going on my x-carve and everything was closed and couldn’t get a Shop Vac female-female adaptor. So I just got out the calipers and stated 3mm wider then tapered to 2mm shorter in a tube. I didn’t know the trick of lifting the stl’s from McMaster-Carr at this time. Just fusion 360 and calipers. Which printer you rolling with? I’m rocking a heavily modified Ender 3 Pro.

[@BEdmonson85]

@@NathanBatson Same here, modified Ender 3 (not pro). Upgraded fans, motor drivers, capricorn bowden tubes, and various other printed upgrades. I just use a $2 glass pane from Ace hardware for a bed surface. PLA sticks to it when it's heated and magically releases when it cools.

[@NathanBatson]

@@BEdmonson85 I use the Creality glass bed, did a direct drive conversion, buck powered Raspberry Pi with octoprint, and upgraded the hot end to the MicroSwiss all metal. I did all that to print TPU much easier, I make custom feet and spacers for my various CNC and tooling. Little custom TPU pads can reduce unwanted vibration and I printed some (really) soft jaws for a little vice.

[@williamna5800]

I got an Ender3 2 months ago. I did resquare it, it was all strange angles but "it just works" now. I am addicted and loving every minute of it.

[@anthonyrich1592]

The dot-matrix printer sound effects. ;) P.S.: Welcome to the Dark Side, TOT!

[@Torabaito]

yay, glad i wasn't the only one that heard that lol...

[@bittech1]

Word for word my experience with the Prusa, absolutely no regrets. I upgraded the bearings on the Y axis but aside from that, still stock, which is pretty crazy to think about in a way. There are some awesome ways to expand it too, been tempted to add Octoprint to one of them to take some nice timelapses of parts. Best bit with 3D printing IMO is suddenly you have that quick option for so many little parts. I've been using mine to print brackets for any and everything in the workshop, some of those things would take aaaaages to manufacture with other methods. Also it's just mind blowing to have an idea, quickly model it up and then suddenly a few hours later, have a working prototype in your hands, takes the risk out of spending ages to machine something that you're not 100% certain about.

[@Breeegz]

Ender3-Pro and Octoprint here: you really need to get Octoprint, it takes a cool thing and makes it even easier, more reliable, more cool.. (I just re-read that, and it was in TOT's voice, weird)

[@Sonic_Ox]

I built a Creality CR-10 (Chinese knockoff) from a kit a few years ago. It has been great! I use it weekly and it's a work horse. I can't believe how many uses I've come up with over the years. From simple clamps to auto shift knobs to drink coasters to cell phone accessories... The list goes on and on. I've combined it with other hobbies like two part colored epoxy and even with my drone photography and welding/metal work hobbies. I use Tinkercad as my primary design tool. Easy to learn and your only limit is your own imagination and creativity. Thanks for adding this to your fantastic build videos. You of all people will come up with some GREAT uses. BTW, It took just as many gummi bears to complete as the Prusa.

[@ComandanteJ]

Welcome to the club! After the "Oh, shiny new toy!" phase wore out, i have to say that there are weeks when i dont even touch the thing, but for odd things in projects or, as you said, to replace plastic parts that you cant buy, it's a godsend. BTW, the creality is, for the most part, as good as the prusa, but the prusa has way better software and is more first-user-friendly, so i'd say you made the right call.

[@jeffposey386]

Been watching these videos for a while, and I guess Tony doesn’t know that all Colchester lathes come with a restore mode. Most people don’t know, because it’s usually a small switch on the back. So it’s easy to miss. But if you put the lathe in restore, it sucks the chips back into the tool insert and adds the metal back onto the workpiece. That way you don’t have to scrap a part if you accidentally cut too much. You can just add it back and try again.

[@floorpizza8074]

Now you have me wondering if the time module was an optional factory feature.

[@jimc3688]

It’s called “Undo” on my lathe and has four levels.

[@natalieisagirlnow]

it has a ctrl-z axis?

[@lforbesconstruction]

Does the Colchester lathe play mariachi music backwards when you have it in restore mode?

[@billinfarmington5189]

Kind of like the BS1000 by DuhWalt. Cut twice measure once. Search Next Level Carpentry BS1000 to see it in action.

[@keithtynan7469]

Fabulous, as always. Forwarding this to my ME son, who also built his own 3D printer.

[@OldePhart]

... and this will help the Maho how exactly ?? :)

[@TreyCook21]

Maybe, just maybe, since Maho has 3 D's of her own... she'll get an extruder head for Christmas. Just like the song says, "My 4 ton cast iron 3D printer brings all the machinist to the yard, and they're like it's better than mine...". He could teach them, but he'd have to charge.

[@netsch20]

He probably busted the z axis ways and is just gonna print some new ones

[@lost4468yt]

They give you those basic tools because 3D printers aren't just aimed at engineery types. They're aimed at loads of people, from building art, printing designs out, things like prop creation for theatres, spare parts, etc etc. There's loads of uses so it's not a bad idea to include some tools.

[@johncoops6897]

Yet they don't include a craft (Exacto) knife?

[@tubertaa3400]

Old Tony we love you so much, 3d printing is a good thing to add you arsinals of tricks, you would probably do so much with it with all you expertise. Mr. Master...again we love you.

[@atomicsmith]

This channel is like AvE if Ave actually made things.

[@ebc1f7]

Oh snap.

[@whodis5152]

avE is like Tony more like

[@gypsydildopunks7083]

Never knew I needed a Canadian man in my life, but there he is...

[@colinjohnson5515]

Probably why I rewatch ToT videos and unsubscribed from AvE

[@Methoverbitches]

Colin Johnson there comes a time in every persons life when they speak literal shit out of there mouth. This is your TIME!

[@Luzgar]

The humour on this channel is dryer than the Sahara, and it's amazing.

[@Anvilshock]

A dryer makes things drier.

[@wildin13]

@@Anvilshock that would be one drie dessert....

[@CRMayerCo]

I’m not a machinist. I find your videos to be interesting, but they are somewhat hard for me to relate to. This 3D printer, however, is right up my alley. Great stuff! Thanks for the information. 👍🏻

[@ninjabob8170]

Looks like there was some whip on the allen wrench, could do with a support bearing half way down....

[@IstasPumaNevada]

IMO, five years behind the times on 3D printers is a good thing. You've given the new fad plenty of time for the bugs to be shaken out and prices to come down/quality to go up. And for your friends to accumulate a lot of knowledge to pass on to you before you even start. :)

[@GunFunZS]

I'm aiming for 5.5 years behind on this trend. They've just about sorted away all the little hassles. I want to use one to make things, not spend my time tinkering on getting the tool working right.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I bought a Prusa in March. Absolutely amazing! It saves a ton of time for me building jigs, fixtures and workshop organizers. Instead of widdeling away on a piece of wood for an hour, I rather design it on CAD in 10 minutes and let it print for 12 hours while I can do other stuff. I recently released an enclosure build video.

[@Joe_Yacketori]

"I was expecting it to print in maybe two pieces, or grow a peg or something through the center" Rule 1 of owning a Prusa: never underestimate your Prusa.

[@Lucas_sGarage]

Bro... Don't go ahead of yourself.... Prusa is great, im not saying that... But it's not the 3d printer that rules all... I have a Anet e10 (modified i know) and some times it prints better that a prusa Mk3 that one of my friends have.... Also... That bridge? Ez for the average 200 usd 3d printer.... As i said, prusa or great... But it's not the ultimate "does everything" machine

[@Joe_Yacketori]

@@Lucas_sGarage Totally agree! I wrote that comment back when I didn't know what I was talking about. The Prusa MK3 prints better than most other bed slingers under $1000 _out of the box._ However, the Prusa is still very much limited in speed due to the simple fact that it's a bed slinger - the ubiquitous speed bottleneck in any bed slinger is the y-axis belt which tends to skip at higher speeds since it has to carry the full weight of the bed and your print. As a result, none of the default configs really push the speed all that much, so owning an unmodded Prusa is a matter of accepting that you won't be printing above about 60mm/s if you want to retain a high standard of print quality. I know speed is just one aspect of a printer; however, it has a global impact on the whole print. Reducing speed (I should really say acceleration, since most bed slingers hardly reach their target speed with their default configs the first place) increases quality almost invariably, though you can modify most printers to increase their rigidity, flow rate, lubrication, etc. to the point where you can give yourself a pretty wide speed threshold before noticing any reduction in quality. And this applies to something like an Ender 3 every bit as much as it does to a Prusa, so the Prusa does not offer much more than better support and better performance out of the box as compared to other printers. Intrinsically, the Prusa is a pretty pedestrian printer that only stands out because of how stable and easy to use it is in its default configuration. I would say it's only better than the Ender 3 because of its closed filament path and higher rigidity (setting aside creature comforts like auto bed leveling). You mention bridging, which is also a good point. No matter how good a printer is, printing a line of filament in midair is tough and will always be an issue regardless of kinematics, flow rate, or whatever. Cooling is probably the main thing to focus on with improving bridging, but, even then, not having a layer beneath to squish down the bridge lines onto is inevitable and make bridges a universal weak link in any print unless you use PVA supports. So a Prusa won't do any better than an Ender (ignoring cooling, which is pretty easy to mod on most printers) in that department, and neither will an Ultimaker. I wouldn't say bridges in general are "Ez" just because there's no way to get filament to form nice layers in any situation without a layer beneath them in any printer, but getting bridges as good as a Prusa is definitely "Ez." The Prusa is heralded by many as the printer to rule them all, but, you're right, it isn't. It's the printer to rule them all if you want something that works right out of the box, which I'd say is a missed opportunity if you're a hobbyist and not running a business or something. In retrospect, I should have gone with an Ender rather than a Prusa just so I could have learned more through the process of getting it to run as good as a Prusa. I've modded and tuned my Prusa to hell and back, and I still can't get past 5000mm/s². My y belt just keeps slipping! I tried to install a linear rail to make it smoother and less likely for the belt to skip, but the powder-coated aluminum frame just doesn't afford me enough real estate to get a linear rail down there (I'd rather not switch to "Bear" extrusions. I like keeping the non-printed parts of my Prusa stock because it's part of the fun of modding to me). It's a limited printer, but excellent for what it's meant to be: a printer that works at its full potential right out of the box and is backed with the full support of a very trustworthy company.

[@Lucas_sGarage]

@@Joe_Yacketori i agree 100% out of the box for 750 (ish) usd it's great

[@hackneo64]

You can get rid of the "ghosting" or "ringing" by lowering the "jerk" rate or rapid acceleration and deceleration on the prusaslicer software with the expert settings. Just a quick pro tip to get really nice prints.

[@joshcrum1697]

Good choice on the Prusa. It is a great printer with solid software as you have obviously discovered. I also chose the kit to save money and familiarize myself with how it all works. I personally feel that is the way to go since the build is lengthy but actually quite easy, and most importantly it helps in the future with repairs or upgrades. One piece of advice... Until the time you decide to build a fancy enclosure for the thing, you can just throw a trash bag over it to hold in the heat. Yeah I know, that is about as far from fancy as one can get, honestly to the point of even being considered trashy maybe, but it does work quite well.

[@GamingMad101]

Precision machining AND 3d printing? What more could you ask for off a youtube channel?

[@MF175mp]

Only that Tony would quit his job and become a full time youtuber

[@disklamer]

Holograms. TOT could really use some holograms :)

[@STRA1GHTAHEAD]

A crossover episode, obviously.

[@JohnADoe-pg1qk]

@@STRA1GHTAHEAD Do you mean 3D printed parts for the MAHO?

[@STRA1GHTAHEAD]

@@JohnADoe-pg1qk I meant a Bojack Horseman reference, but - why not?

[@VailsMom]

Have I told you lately that I love you? When you printed the replacement insert for your ratchet set, I wept, I tell you. Wept. The joy.

[@JamesTM]

That's an absolutely incredible first-time Benchy. Amazing.

[@1D10CRACY]

I have two of the Ender 3 Creality's, they actually do pretty good for the price! They are a good bang for the buck, especially if your just learning. And they are a good platform to learn how to do some upgrades. My favorite printers are the Prusa's though!

[@everydecentnameistaken8204]

My first printer was the Ender 3 pro, it has it's ups and downs but I'm really glad I got it, it taught me how to identify and remedy any issues it came up with, 4 more printers later (including a scratch built) I've got my Prusa i3 MK3s and thanks to my Ender I can really appreciate the quality of a Prusa

[@t1mblumer]

My Ender 3 has printed a full size C3PO, well worth the $200

[@smithfamilydesigns2012]

Okay.. I almost spit my drink out when you picked up the impact driver for the Z axis motor mount.. I was laughing good on that one. The benchy looked good. I see a slight horizontal line on the hull, and some strings,, but overall not bad. If you dial in you esteps and do some PID tuning, you might be able to improve that.. But still a good result right out of the box with no tuning. I'm on my 4th printer now. (I have a desk dedicated to them).. Got into them a few years back, and found them very useful when you need something odd that you just can't get at the store or need something custom.. Example, right now my Chiron printer is making a silverware organizer that is custom fit to my kitchen drawer. (2 day print, 360mm x 360mm x 70mm) I have also made a printer from the ground up... (took a couple months),, these are fun to learn. You are correct, a drafty garage is not an ideal setting for these. Also, be careful with the rails and lead screws in a garage setting, debris on the screws and rails can lead to quality of print issues since that debris sticks to the lubricant on them.

[@aaronbuildsa]

I was just scrolling down the comments before posting something along the lines of .. "I can't believe the quality you got out of the box from the Prusa.. I have struggled and battled with my Anycubic Chiron since I bought it and I'm still not getting prints anywhere near that quality!" and lo, someone in the comments with a Chiron :) I mean, don't get me wrong, it's not a train wreck.. but I think I'd have had a much easier learning curve if I'd bought something a little more polished out of the box! Now.. I must go and see if I've created a birds nest of ASA or not... but I have only had passable PLA prints, so far, so I'm not holding my breath ;)

[@smithfamilydesigns2012]

@@aaronbuildsa After some tuning on my Chiron... (Okay,, a lot of tuning, and some words I can't repeat) www.thingiverse.com/make:699011 I like the printer because I can print massive prints with it, and it's really not that expensive for it's size. Things I did to mine. PID tuning, esteps calibrated, replaced bowden tube with Capircorn tube, changed nozzle type to MK8 style with the stock hotend/heatsink (requires a little tweaking due to thread lengths), TMC2208 drivers, ant-backlash nuts, and some fine tuning on the belts to make sure they were tight. :) Also changed the bed to borosilicate glass, but that was after the benchy print.

[@aaronbuildsa]

@@smithfamilydesigns2012 That's a lot of tuning indeed :) I have done some of that (esteps, PID etc) but haven't done any hardware upgrades yet.. I keep pondering a new hotend or driver upgrade - given how your benchy looks, I should stop pondering and do it! :)

[@smithfamilydesigns2012]

@@aaronbuildsa TMC2208 drivers are very nice in that machine. Night and day on noise levels from the motors. Fans are still a little loud, but I'm okay with that. Only reason I did the nozzle change was because I wanted it to match the nozzle on my other printers, and the MK8 nozzle fits in a 1/4" hex driver making it easier to swap. (And I already had a pack of 50 of them). Okay, that's like 3 reasons..

[@aaronbuildsa]

@@smithfamilydesigns2012 ah the fans.. I'm thinking I'll move the printer down to the garage - having it in the office is great for tinkering but at the same time, hard to have it running and actually do the day job with the racket! Also gassing myself with the ASA fumes, but y'know, the noise!

[@noahcarver1707]

dude, you put it together like a machinist! I built mine on the kitchen table like a heathen! No wonder it worked perfectly

[@perrybrown4985]

A few years ago, my 4yo daughter was looking through one of my magazines and saw an ad - she said "what's this?" I said "it's a 3d printer" She said "let's make a 3d printer" I said "no, they're useless, they just make things out of weak globby plastic, we need a CNC router" She says "Daddy, let's make a CNC router" (well, you don't need to ask twice - she even got her own welding mask/

[@andreiandrei8240]

That s good parenting

[@mmazz30]

How many ToT fans are squinting at the pixelated "toy"

[@brockstravels7586]

Not me, it wasnt me.... Stop watching me.. :O :(

[@eoinkenny3188]

I just shrugged my shoulders. What ever floats your boat Mr Tony. I did however absently wonder was it modeled to scale.

[@miatakid2]

what the dickosaurus ? it like a 3d printers right of passage.... if you have a printer you will evently print one

[@hardkur]

@@miatakid2 cant wait to see Tony in "3d printing uncensored" :D

[@xoxo2008oxox]

What toy is this that you speak of? I have not noticed such a censored device. "Honey, the first thing I 3D printed was for you!"

[@grendol6968]

You bought the right printer. I have a Prusa and have been very happy with it. I know some engineers who use Prusa printers professionally and they say you can’t beat their performance short of the $10K range. I wish I bought mine pre-assembled. The new I3mk3 with multi material pack looks good enough I daydream of getting it too. Welcome to the fun!

[@ryanfoss6243]

Now you have access to mcmaster carr's 'toys r us' of free 3d printable parts....

[@Octopusbeak]

It's nice on paper but in reality the parts can be made much better if they're designed for 3d printing. Tolerances, overhang, orientation relative to layers, wall thickness, etc. The bulk of small parts just don't take that long to model. PSA: please upload your nice parts to thingiverse

[@murkinstock]

@Barry Manilowa I heard the theory was they are fine with it, because you can make a plastic prototype and if you need metal, or a stronger plastic one, you will then order it.

[@jothain]

@@murkinstock yeah, after all there isn't too much stuff that's actually usable 3d printed. I mostly use their models for say countersunk head bolts and such which I'm too lazy to check dimensions for and use them to cut my models.

[@kazlx]

@Barry Manilowa They will always leave the models there. They are there used for cad designers building assemblies and ordering hundreds of parts, not the dude looking how to rip off one part.

[@megamoist6659]

Tony 😳 hope that left spool of silver isn’t lying with the tip loose and unwinding it will get tangled!!

[@Subimaru]

Tony I'm an apprentice in Tool & Die, and I must say I've learned a lot from you over the hours so far. Thank you! :D

[@michaelosmon]

“What do you mean, $50?” Laughed my a$$ off

[@sp00nesis]

I paid $100 for a gear knob adapter 15yrs ago, guy didn't even know what he was doing ( lathe) and I got an off centered one. Now what all the crap I've learned over the years, I'd just buy some tube at the right OD and thickness, and just drill the ID (if need be) tap em. All likely WAAY below $50, and I keep the tools. Live and learn.

[@blahblahblahblah2933]

3D? It's like I'm sitting in ToT's garage!

[@muxallopeniot9194]

You got me I want the Prusa MK3s printer kit now. Great video Tony!

[@electrofly23]

"...adds a whole new dimension to 2D printing" LOL

[@markrichards5630]

Welcome to the party. And I'm glad you're here. I've been blowing my brains out telling people to set up their printers like they would a mill (Oh for God's sake - leveling is NOT tramming!) Anyway, maybe they'll listen to you. FYI the Ender can print just as well as the Prusa but the Prusa can do it well out of the box. A poorly assembled Ender never will. And I feel vindicated. I can now snark at my friends that I'm not the ONLY one who would assemble their printer on a surface plate.

[@paulwomack5866]

The thing is ... if a book/manual says "use a flat surface", a normal human will use their kitchen table, a "maker" will use a sheet of glass, a handtool woodworker will use their workbench, a powertool woodworker will use their table saw, and a machinist will use a surface plate. Ya' use what ya' got.

[@EgorKaskader]

To be fair, as someone who has had to DIY his printer entirely, I would absolutely love to be able to reassemble it using an actual surface plate. Or probably rebuild the entire frame using said plate anew, because I've made some mistakes with the current one XD

[@LightCarver]

I assembled mine on a poor man's surface plate - piece of marble counter-top I already had.

[@davidwillmore]

Does the Prusa firmware lack the skew compensation feature?

[@EgorKaskader]

@@davidwillmore it has skew compensation, but it is still good practice to properly assemble a printer. And while in this case it wouldn't impact print quality much, it would likely lead to increased wear, which you might want to avoid.

[@Sharpman76]

Prusa printers are great, and that Benchy looks perfectly fine! My biggest surprise from the Mk3 was how completely silent it was compared to the Mk2.

[@LukeAps]

"Alas poor Tony, I knew him well. A man of infinite Lathe." - Shakepike 2020

[@usernametaken4106]

X, y and z axis all in the same video!?

[@ThisOldTony]

!

[@zrobotics]

I will say, look into lost PLA and lost wax casting. By far the handiest thing I have found for 3d printing, you can fairly inexpensively take any shape you want and pour it in aluminum. I don't know, with TOT's current hobbies, how useful plastic parts are going to be, but the ability to make molds for cast parts is a game-changer in the home shop for me. And good choice on the printer, I built my own in 2013 and finally got tired of the printer always needing work & attention. Decided to go for the Prusa as well, and couldn't have been happier- it's definitely higher quality than the budget price should allow.

[@inevitableinventions]

that censored part when you said youre having a blast with it nearly woke up my kid as i was spraying my coffee on the wall XD thank you for existing mr Tony!

[@allaussietraveller9879]

I was looking through the comments, I was starting to think no-one else saw that 😂

[@jadencm4862]

12:56

[@supadupadudacud]

"3D printing adds a whole new dimension to 2D printing" *Hold for laughter*

[@Illyclone]

Ah, The video that made Tony the best 3d Printing channel on youtube.

[@olekaarvaag9405]

"Honey I promise I'll fix the car ashtray! ... I just need to sink about $1000 into getting a 3d printer first." ToT, probably.

[@ewaldikemann4142]

Welcome to the 3D printing show... Have fun with it! The benchy is fine.

[@simoncleret]

Taking the time to make sure it's all nice and square is a big part of why it wasn't a nightmare for you, Tony. I've got an Ender, myself, and I quite enjoy it. Getting some stiffer springs for the bed is a must, though.

[@JustinDaze]

You should try what's called "lost PLA casting" with some of your 3d printed parts. Might enjoy making more complex metal parts with that method.

[@a.bakker64]

Haribo macht Kinder froh, und Erwachsene eben so!

[@der_pinguin44]

Warum?

[@coverweel2235]

Haribo maakt kinderen blij, ouderen horen ook daarbij!

[@baronclime6423]

Anytime there is a new ToT video it makes my day.

[@popefacto5945]

"SUBSRIBE"? Poor old Tony must've eaten that whole tube of lithium grease...

[@networkcrasher]

09:52

[@Gamerock82]

the one at 5:58 was fine so apparently the lithium hadn't kicked in yet.

[@jonno8183]

Missed one - 0:42

[@xoxo2008oxox]

It helped all those gummy bears pass though...

[@Novur]

Can't wait for the printing in wax/lost wax casting videos this is inevitably going to lead to 😁

[@hlavaatch]

You can do the lost PLA. 3D printing is great for making patterns for casting

[@davidhawley1132]

I bought the Ender 3 as my first 3D printer. Almost no learning curve, in contrast to my 3018 CNC mill, and I can design and crank out parts with little problem. Love it.

[@Dr.Niboshi]

Lemon squeezy, chicken dinner. 　　　　　　　　　　　　--------This Old Tony 2020.