3-Way Panel Clamp System

[@frederickvanpelt6393]

Thanks for the post, great idea, I wonder if square nuts or spring nuts would have worked instead of welding nuts at the far end.(they sit in the channel)

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

A lot of people have asked this question and yes, I had considered it, but there were a few issues with using the spring nuts. First and foremost, the whole load would be placed on just the inner lip of the unistrut. I didn’t feel like that was strong enough for the application. Second, since I was placing a lateral clamping load on the piece, I was concerned about the spring but moving as I was tightening down the clamp. I was also concerned about warping the inner lip with the lateral clamping forces. Finally, if I used a spring nut, the threads of the bolt would dig in to the edge of the board I was clamping, leaving marks behind. They way I designed it, it bears the flattening load across the whole unistrut, it won’t move because the nuts are welded into fixed locations, and the bolts are long enough that the shoulder of the bolt is what interfaces with the panel, so the threads won’t mar the edge. This idea isn’t perfect. Someday I will release version 2.0, but for now it does the job. Thanks for your comment!

[@marvlb]

@@SouthpawWorkshop you can cut the springs off the nuts, you don’t really need them. There is no way the clamping force would bend the lips of the unistrut, most people tighten the clamps way too much, only a small amount of pressure is required. Great idea!

[@starseeddeluxe]

Really thoughtful engineering you have, regarding the use of welding instead of spring nuts. You raise extremely important engineering reasons for using the welded nuts. However, I do feel that if you're going to use Unistrut, then you absolutely have to use spring nuts, because spring nuts are part of the magic of Unistrut. The magic of spring nuts is the clean look, no welding, but most importantly--infinite adjustability. Spring nuts also allow nothing protruding from the bottom of the strut, so it would sit completely flat. The spring nuts won't deform the strut, as long as you use a standard thin washer on the bolt that tightens the two pieces together--the washer will deform visibly and will continue to deform, before the strut deforms.@@SouthpawWorkshop

[@fabiomerlin8820]

That was one of the best ideas I saw regarding clamping panels. Thanks for the video.

[@glenspicer9000]

The first morning I welded galvanized metal, I was sick to my stomach in no time. I was informed at lunch that drinking a glass of milk before welding galvanized will help coat my stomach and help keep me from getting sick. Worked like a charm. Used it for years since and when coupled with good ventilation and it has never failed me.

[@enzorocha2977]

If you pause at 0:24, one clamp lines up perfectly with the red hand pallet (?) in the background that an optical illusion is formed. While the video plays, I thought that was part of some nice DIY clamp. Good video as usual, thanks for sharing.

[@mongomay1]

Hello Thomas, Go to a decent electrical contractor supply chain, get the taller 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" that has your same narrow width, it will not flex as much. Get the spring tube speed nuts by the box (come in different thread pitches), insert as many as you need in each tube, which looks like one to two to save all that fabricating time. That is why Uni-strut has all those holes/slots. Use regular speed nut and two 1" wedges opposing each other to put your side pressure. That way you don't need to use extra fabrication skills and steps. Industrial mechanics, electricians hvac and other tradesman use this stuff all the time for permanent or temporary projects. Ask electrical supply for one of their uni-strut accessory catalogs, might get other labor saving ideas. I did watch a spanish woodcraftsman on y-t make something similar with a ripped 2x4 drilling five holes through the tall sides with 3/8" bolts, washers, wing nuts and wedges, did not mark the wood.

[@davidpearson7610]

Thomas, that is a real good tool!! Smart guy! I love working with with, I was an insurance appraiser for years until I retired last year and now I have been starting to work on projects that require clamps and your idea is great! Good luck!

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks, David!

[@TosaNewsense]

Brilliant solution! Thank you so much! There's much glue-up hell in my foreseeable future bc I'm using a bunch of scraps and tree stumps to make my wood workbench top. Your idea is going help so much in ensuring my efforts to save some money doesn't go to waste.

[@bwasman8409]

I like your ingenuity, your persistence and a sneak preview of what I think will eventually be a real asset to woodworkers! Please keep on with it and end up with the kinks out. I am looking forward to it! Thanks!

[@rogerhedge1657]

Thomas, I love your concept. I might follow your lead on this one. Thank you.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@16by9_designs]

It is a nice job and a great idea incorporating the cross-body bolt into the top/bottom struts. I like the use of an impact or drill into the system, certainly makes it easier to clamp down and over. You could use a piece of angle iron or flat bar as protection for the Cross-body bolt.

[@virgilcook7785]

I really liked the idea and the material you used. I'm thinking about building some of these.

[@mikew3924]

Can't turn unistrut over if you want downward clamping force guys. I didn't think of that as an option so super glad to see this post! I would've been the dummy that had them "flat" side down. I've been thinking about doing this for a while, glad to see I'm not the only one. Yes there are more parts available he probably didn't know about at time of this build, he woodworker not electrician after all.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks for the support, Mike. I am aware of all the available accessories available for unistrut. There are many reasons I built it the way I did and maybe I didn’t explain very well in the video. What it all boils down to is speed of deployment and ease of storage. Neither of which can be done when you have a bunch of loose bolts and spring but that need to be inserted and adjusted for each application.

[@tilahungetachew5339]

Best clamp system, plan to use it with some modifications, like middle tightening for larg panels and flat head on the tightening bolt to increase pressure area.

[@frederikmare9002]

Thanks! Great video and great clamps! 👍👍👍

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@KipIngram]

1) use metal strips instead of sacrificial wood strips. 2) put metal panels on each side of the panel boards. Make it so the bolts and the unistrut only bear against metal, and let that metal spread the load for you. It's a nice concept - well done!

[@lenbloom338]

Great idea. Solves so many issues with the glue up process! I will definitely be making a set of these. Thank you.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Awesome! Thanks for checking it out

[@AbleInNightroad]

That's a really cool idea! I'm 100% interested in this idea!

[@dkkreation]

this is magical

[@kyzor-sosay6087]

Enjoyed the video,man.thanks for your time.

[@martinadams6067]

Truly appreciate the safety issue on welding prep. 👍👍

[@leonardomunozarellano2318]

Muy útil y genial esta adaptación, la llevare al cabo. Gracias¡¡¡

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

¡Gracias por ver!

[@Queenswara562]

Brilliant,Excellent clamping system

[@nicholasricchiuto8923]

This is a genius idea. I will definitely implement it, you could weld small handles onto the side pressure bolts to feel out how tight you are clamping, versus the drill method, or you can just set the torque setting on the drill to a known tightness. I was a little worried about the twenty minute video but your explanation was extremely concise and very thorough.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks! I know my videos can be long, but I try to keep the filler to a minimum. I like the idea of setting the torque on a drill to control the tension. I’ll try that out next time. Cheers!

[@khyberali9738]

Amazing.. you just solve my problem i was thinking of the whole week...

[@vanrobinson4506]

Excellent idea. I've 3 recommendations for improvements. 1. Deep well socket for your impact gun. 2. Turn the unistrut over to help avoid denting the wood. 3. For added strength, get the 1 1/2" deep unistrut. You can get bolts, nuts and washers that will go inside the strut and make it quicker and more streamlined. Great idea and execution.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Great suggestions. I think there are a lot of ways this can be tackled. I hope others try it out with their own improvements.

[@dougsholly9323]

What if you bolt a pine strip to the inner surface of each clamp, (countersunk bolts of course)? That might help prevent the clamp from digging in.

[@davidhawley1132]

Doug Sholly And the strip could be tapered down to the ends so that the pressure would be even across the width (notice the dents are on the outside edges, showing the caul pressure is not even across the width)

[@mandeladams4793]

Great idea going to build one myself

[@markf.4063]

I thought of a similar idea years ago but yours is much more thought out. I like the simplicity and ease of use. I've used more Uni-Stut than I care to remember working in the HVAC/R field, mainly for supporting refrigeration lines and hanging unit heaters. In regards to he fears of welding on galvanized, they also make a painted version as well as specialized nuts (I've always just called them cone nuts) and with a little ingenuity one might eliminate the need for welding.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

@Tvzblaze Ggg To respond to the question of using spring nuts: The reason I did not use the spring nuts has to do with how those nuts interface with the Unistrut. There is a small lip on the inner channel of the unistrut that catches these nuts and all of the clamping pressure is applied to that narrow lip. In normal pluming and structural unistrut applications, the nut and lip are always pressing against something say, a pipe, a piece of structural steel, or another piece of unistrut. In this application, there is nothing backing up the nut and the tendency will be for the lip to bend outward away from the inner channel of the strut. I am using the full thickness of the unistrut to behave like clamping cauls, so the bolt and nut needs to press equally from the outside of the unistrut, using the rigidity of the strut as the caul action while the bolt provides the clamping action. With a spring nut in use, my belief is that only 1 side would provide the caul action and the nut side would just fail over time because of the pressure being applied to the inner retaining lip. I sure hope that book I just wrote gives you some insight to how I was thinking when I approached this project. I did consider using spring nuts at one time, but decided against it for the reasons stated above. Thanks for your input, guys!

[@stevenstewart7879]

Very nice. I plan on building a set.

[@gabrielmoseki838]

these are best i ever seen, nice one bro for butchers block counter top

[@glennhelwigwk8p530]

Nice idea - good safety info !

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks, Glenn!

[@brosselot1]

Ive made a set but used the 2" unistrut. I build some very large tables from reclaim lumber or just pine or fur. I need to weld the nuts to mine. Good idea. I use clamps to pull the boards together but the panel clamps to make it flat. Awesome 👍

[@thisshowidoit8618]

This is a great idea. Keep up the good work.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@friedgizzard]

Awesome idea, i will be making some, thanks for posting.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@createdbycay8704]

Tedious but looks to be an extremely effective approach. Great job.

[@ikkimvp]

Excelente idea, gracias por compartir.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

De nada!

[@michaelboudreaux9225]

This is a great idea. I will give it a try

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Awesome! Let me know how it works out

[@Nirabulator]

Cool idea! I might try to adopt it for my own use.

[@Deadeyeo86]

I used your idea . But I changed the nuts , instead of welding them , I drilled a piece of bar stock that fit inside and tapped it so it slide where needed . works great. Also used made wood strips that look like dental molding ( gap fits over glue joints) no indentations or stains THANK YOU for your GREAT idea

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Great ideas. Glad you improved upon it

[@vampricloki]

I built a bunch of these for panel glueups a few years ago. although I flipped them over so its the flat side against the wood and put the disc nut on the inside to pass the bolt to, and since it slides you don't have to weld or have extra nuts. although I have since upgraded to the actual 3 way clamp hardware from Peachtree. I just mount the handle and stuff to the strut and it works great without needing to worry about overtightening the top or bottom. as for your issue with the marking just wrap some packing tape over the edges that touch the wood.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Sounds like some great modifications you made there. Thanks for sharing!

[@sharilynhoward3540]

Add wood inserts to the clamps where they contact the wood surface. This may also provide an alternate way to locate the nuts by locking them into the wood. No welding necessary. I am going to make a set and see how my idea works out. Thanks for a great idea.

[@robertpowell8975]

Very good,I was looking for something just like this, will be making it, thanks

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Good luck!

[@Rubble1]

Good idea. It’s one of those things I feel like I should have come up with.

[@georgefouriezos8863]

I like your clamping system a lot! It has inspired me to make something similar, maybe using wood cleats and wedges, but using your design outright. Thank you for sharing your design and creativity.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@nechitarazvan5783]

Great idea. I will make some pieces like you. tks and good luck

[@davidmiera8858]

Great idea. I’m making a set. Thanks a bunch

[@whiskeyisl]

Really nice idea.

[@nethead72]

Clever design. I am going to try and make it with some kiln dried hickory stock (Holds threads decently well). Since I don't even have basic metal working tools.

[@charlesdeshler202]

Nice concept.... seems to work good. If you get the dented wood and need to use that section... Just dab a finger in water and put on the dent, it will swell grain out and then when you sand, it will disappear.

[@enochpage1333]

Very excellent problem solving!

[@GraemePayne1967Marine]

Good idea and information. I will probably try epoxy to hold the parts you welded.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Great idea!

[@phillipa.rudolph7737]

nice clamps and an ingenious build. the first thought that came to mind was just strips of 1/4 attached to the beams to avoid marking

[@billcoley8520]

That is very impressive. I used 2x4 split in half drill holes ever so often. Then I used 2 wedges to tighten up the project.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

I have also seen that myself. I believe that method is most useful for applying edge pressure for glue-ups. Maybe adding a couple clamps to each end of the 2x4 would help keep flat also?

[@billcoley8520]

@@SouthpawWorkshop exactly. You nailed my method. I’m a beginner at age 61. But I’ve been watching videos for a long time.

[@davidmarr5245]

Great idea, I've been planning to build a clamping jig from plywood and 2X material with threaded inserts like the dustin penner jig, but I like the fact that your system has no length limit, need to clamp a longer piece, make some more clamps! Great build!!!!

[@mikerobertson7311]

Great video, you’ve inspired me to make my own. I really like the your video.

[@chucksierraflpd]

Tom you're almost there I would recommend planed hard wood between the unistrut and your work

[@trevorpeterlewis6260]

Just come across you Wow 100 out of 100 I'm 61 not on your level yet Keep going man been a joiner in shop and out Starteded my time at 6 God bless. Wigwam burnley uk

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks for watching, Trevor!

[@C.T.Daniels]

I have been using strut as clamps for years as I am an electrician. I think I'm going to build it a couple of the ideas that came to mind is I was watching your build I'll implement and then I'll post my video giving you credit for the original build ⚡😎⚡

[@SquareRootOfMinus1]

Hey Amped, any progress on your video ? Sounds interesting. Love to see it. I just discovered Unistrut (some call it Superstrut). Thinking of loads of different use cases. But the price is now insanely high.

[@johnpasco1300]

Thanks for sharing! I'm going to have to make some!!

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks for watching!

[@designer-garb572]

This is an excellent idea, you could even turn it into a board press that was hinged on one side and made adjustable for different board thicknesses with a swing down tightening system on the front, and if you fixed a board top and bottom of your press you could sandwich the new board you are gluing and this way you would only need 3 clamps as the boards would spread the weight also dispensing of any marks or dents on new boards, this would also be much quicker, as you would only have 3 clamps to shut and 3 bolts to adjust for your width. I would also weld a small rotating plate on the cross bolt ends to distribute a more even pressure. thanks for sharing.

[@marjen1956]

It looks great, the glitch are all easy fixes well done

[@rickmccaskill7888]

Great idea. I will have to make some. You might weld washers on to the 1/2 in bolts that tight the side clamping to give the contact to the sacrificial boards. Thanks for sharing.

[@starseeddeluxe]

The real danger is welding in a wood shop. Most men are not tidy and organized, and they won't stop to clean and vacuum everything before welding. Welding galvanized isn't smart, but farmers have been welding it for decades (my agriculture shop teacher never warned us, he just said that you can "taste the zinc" when you're welding it). Love the design! And I think it's a very good use of Unistrut; it should be utilized more in woodworking; your design is the best homemade panel clamp system I've seen so far.

[@MrExNavy]

I think it is a good idea. Gonna build me some. To prevent the unistrut from digging into the wood, I would cut strips of pine or other soft wood to match the length and just a little bit wider than the width of the unistrut for better load distribution and cut a channel in the middle of the wood for the bolts to pass through and then attach the wood to the unistrut with screws and washers making sure the screws don't go all the way through the wood and gouge the panel. You wouldn't need to have the screws to go any further than where your most inner clamping bolt starts. The other screws will keep it lined up and attached plenty good enough. I'm also going to cut out some round slugs from some 1/8" plate and weld them to the ends of the lateral clamping bolts. If that doesn't work like I want, I'll fabricate some swivel cups for the ends of the bolts instead.

[@keithpantermoller328]

Great idea, I might try mounting the unistrut upside down with the nuts inside. That way, I would have a larger surface area on the wood panel and reduce denting. Also on the panel tightening bolt, I want to try putting a 10-32 bolt or threaded rod through a hole to use as a T handle. A couple of cap nuts would finish the handle. That way I don’t put too much pressure on the panel by using a drill or impact. Again, great idea!

[@MrWigg1es09]

I would totally build these if I knew how to weld! Great idea

[@gregorylondos534]

Great Job... I Made some of these out of Red Oak Scrap and Carriage Bolts and Wing Nuts. Rather than using your "Horizontal pressure through Bolts". I just used some of my aluminium bar clamps to pressure my Work pieces together. When I used my Scrap 3/4" red oak cross bars Made the centers taller in the middle than either end to help keep these pieces from Flexing... Either end was 1-1/4" and the centers were 2". One side(the part that touched my joining work pieces)was perfectly Flatwhile The Outside edges were arched. My sandwich clamps will accommodate up to 30"... I hope you understand my description... Again I Like your Design... Whatever Works Right... I did subscribe to your channel... 👍👌👏

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks! I think I understand what you were describing. Thanks for the sub!

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Wedges are a great idea. My goal was to try to come up with an all-in-one type system, so wedges may have made it more complicated. Or at least, more pieces to keep track of. Still a great idea, though.

[@SergioMedina-jx5ps]

It is a great idea, thanks a lot for ssharing!

[@OakLogHome]

Great idea you had there. I think there are possibly a few minor improvements that can be done although the overall concept and idea is great. Thank you. I plan on building two sets of these. One extra large to do 60” wide by 80” long glue ups. And one to do standers size stuff maybe 32” x 48”

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Glad you liked it. If you try any improvements and they work out good, let me know!

[@joelewis9433]

Nice idea just a few tweaks and that will be a awesome set of clue clamps I'll be making some for my shop maybe Evan built on the wall so I can clamp up boards and keep working but thanks for the idea

[@damienmikkelsen6056]

Cool idea!

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@billcoley8520]

Yes it is worth it. You did good

[@ZacJones]

Nice DIY Clamps! These look like they will come in really good handy!

[@jdwing4488]

I love this idea, and I'm looking forward to expanding upon it. I make a lot of heavy duty tables and have been looking into other methods for clamping. I have looked into the industrial clamp racks / tables and not only are they pricey, but they are usually rather large. I would definitely like to collaborate with you - or at least brainstorm a little. Great Idea and Thank You for sharing this approach.

[@Belg1970]

I would suggest going with deep unistrut for rigidity, I'd REALLY like to see what you come up with. I use a set of 4' pieces and just nut and bolt thru them as cauls but use conventional clamps to join the boards.

[@protect.your.digits.creations]

I have been thinking of this for awhile , with a few tweaks it will be perfect.

[@mmgross144]

Very nice! I have some table tops to make, so this is inspiring!

[@47luscsettle44]

Great idea. Thanks!

[@thomascarter1252]

Nice job I like this very much

[@thomasz4981]

Nice idea! Maybe use the unistrut with the flat side against the wood with a threaded piece of steel that slides in the channel.

[@hyrumluke5141]

never thought of using uni-strut for this type of clamping great idea. To avoid the marring of the strut against the wood i would recommend using the flat side against the wood. more surface area less damage.

[@ThekiBoran]

hyrum Luke I thought about it but the supply at Home Cheapo had a bad curve/not straight. I also don't think they're stiff enough, IMHO.

[@thisoldman7142]

Yours look more efficient than Rocklers, well done.

[@nathanrippeto1469]

great idea and it was a great starting point, we all seem to expand on each others ideas in this community keep up the good work.

[@dennisdickson6210]

I have been thinking along these lines as well. My idea was to use wedges for the horizontal force.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Yes, wedges are the traditional way to do it. Just as effective as my method and quicker too

[@briansworkshop01]

Great job looks fantastic thanks for sharing love the idea. 🍺🍺👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@marklane7393]

Really nice idea, I like it

[@johncoriasco3099]

Great design. Instead of a sacrificial wood strip you should try a piece of metal strip

[@gyrateful]

We have tons of Unistrut and fittings around the shop at work rhat we use for all kinds of sruff. Square "U" bolts (you can get rhem any length) works to clamp the ends. Two peaces threaded rod running the length of the Unistrut gives side clamping pressure. Use a piece of bar stock at each end with double nuts counter tightened on the end inside the Unistrut, and the other end a piece of flat steel covering the ends. Your system has fewer bolts to tighten. Mine has 6 for each clamp. Also, I won't take the time to cut the strut, so I use awkward 10 foot clamps.

[@jvmiller1995]

You need to turn your unistruts over so they have the flat surface on your wood. I did something similar and maybe one day I will post a video or share with some of my youtubers so they can make some and pass on. But I will try to describe the best I can... I use the same size unistrut but unaltered other than cut to length. I took some 2 1/2 in 1/4 angle and cut them around 2 inches long. One side I cut the angle down so it is just under 3/4"x2 1/2" the long side I drilled 2 holes I think 5/16ths the same distance as the center of slots of the unistrut. The then I took 5/16th (or 1/4 don't remember) carriage bolts in the holes so the bolt head only sticks up the thickness of the unistrut material. I used my belt grinder and took of just a little bit of the square shank that keeps a carriage bolt from turning in order to get the right height. Then placed the bolts with the head sticking up that distance on the flat side opposite of my shortened angle. Then cut the back of the bolts off flush and welded them down solid to the angle. Now I made two for each set of clamps. then take the grinder and flat just enough off sides of the two sides of the carriage bolt heads so they fit inside the ovals. So now you can drop them in the strut on flat side opposed the U on the strut and slide them down in the slot and they will lock onto it. Now you just made the foot of essentially a pipe clamp that uses the strut instead of pipe. You use one just like so. The other one centered it the short side of the angle that is 3/4 drill a 3/8 hole. You can weld a nut on to it on the inside the angle or you could drill it a bit smaller and tap the hole for 3/8 thread. I then take 3/8 all thread and cut it around 4 inches or a bit more. Now I took hardwood and turned handles I threaded and epoxied onto my all thread but you could use a 3/8 bolt or weld a nut on it so you can tighten with a wrench. They just screw into it to push the board together like a pipe clamp does. I also made me some little feet that swivel on the end of my all thread that has a little wedge of hardwood attached. You could put some flatthen bar stock in place of the pine that you used to sacrifice when tightening down or hardwood. I hope this is as clear as mud for you. LOL... if so you can see you have made a bar clamp you can use with any size length of strut just cut to length. So to use Glue up just like any other pipe clamp and run the claps hand snug. Then you just use bolts to pull another piece of strut down against it to prevent the cupping and tighten. I weld a piece of flat into a all thread to make like a T bolt and use a washer on top with knob so it is all done with hand to wrenches needed. Like I said it is probably about as clear as mud but if you read it enough times maybe you can understand the just of it. Now if you clamp something thinner than 3/4 you have to lay a spacer board down the width of the panel or the foot of the clamps will keep the other strut from clamping it together. The do work very well though. I really debated patenting them but here I am giving away my golden goose.

[@Sahoryperez8741]

Muy bien estimado

[@myfaceback100]

Great Idea I will be making a few of them 2,4,6,8ft ones form free c channel from work they are always getting rid of for table tops and doors

[@craigmonteforte1478]

Nice solution and good engineering 2way or 90degree bolt is what comes to my mind I was happy you mentioned Not calling it the cross threaded bolt due to that was my first thought when you used the term as my father used to tell me when we worked on projects together don’t go and cross thread that bolt or as a a teenager I very often Tightened something untill I broke the bolt or stud Giving the old man hours of extra work fixing my screw up ! Typical rookie mistake and it pissed Pops off evertime as usually it was Something like a manifold bolt or ? That was a bear to get to and required work like pulling the entire engine from a car or truck Pissing off the old man wasn’t fun as a teenager but I guess it’s how I learned How not to do things

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

I like 2-way bolt or cross bolt

[@glenn549]

great idea

[@Wildspirit2016]

Definitely going to build some of those. Thank you! Perhaps some steel sacrificial strips would make life better

[@rickstills6716]

Exactly what I need for gluing up end grain cutting boards.!!!

[@clearriver5987]

GOOD DONE THOMAS GREETING FROM NETHERLAND

[@ECLIPSE_74]

Спасибо, крутая идея !

[@alanrichardson7244]

Well done.

[@Phoenix540]

Fill the void in the unistrut with some hardwood to displace the clamping force

[@steveslagle8564]

I was just thinking of doing the exact same thing (almost) last night. I would probably use punched square tubes and instead of the bolt use wedges for the horizontal pressure. Thanks for confirming my idea would work 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@xw6968]

Nice one and greap idea. In my case the clamps are cheaper then the raw material but it could help many people with a cheaper way.

[@randymartin2396]

Great concept I agree you need a sheet of hard board so not to imprint on you wood Thank you for the video I might try this out.

[@SouthpawWorkshop]

Thanks!