Things you should know about ABS

[@71kalauer]

It is so good to see, that there are people around, that don't just do reviews of the latest gearbest offer, but invest lots of time to compile lots of valuable information and put these in one video. I think this was one oft the best youtube videos on 3D printing I ever saw. So sad I can't give several thumbs up.

[@silviustro1]

Paint it, glue it, drill it, mill it, tap it, weld it, or just smooth it.

[@WaaaghNL]

Fits with Daft Punk - Harder Better Faster kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXLNg2eVeMeDprM

[@donibeh]

Ronald van Heugten that's exactly what i was thinking

[@traewatkins931]

I was wondering how long he practiced that for the video.

[@tomasv1971]

Ronald van Heugten you mean technologic

[@no-trick-pony]

That line really earned him the thumbs-up and the sub. I laughed so hard. xD

[@Ryan-uz2cr]

First off, I love the videos. Second I mostly print abs, I actually find it easier than pla. I have an Anet A8, and my settings are as follows, nozzle temp 240c bed 80c and a coating of abs juice on the aluminum bed and no enclosure. 0.3mm first layer height .1-.2 mm for the rest of the print . 15-50% infill. This works great for me and I hope someone found it useful.

[@neeooww]

Same here it is awesome, do those settings work well for overhangs? I have a new lot of abs from a different supplier and no matter what I am getting bad print artifacts at maybe 45°

[@mashman84]

@@neeooww i print alot of ABS, the 2 i usually print including one branded lonenessl available on amazon handles overhangs great, i purchased a no brand "premium" roll and it wont do an overhang no matter what i do so it could be the filament is your problem

[@ripmax333]

no enclosure? I think you the first That I heard saying that.

[@lloydrmc]

"ABS juice" Learn something every day. Thank you Matter Hackers and especially @Ryan for bringing it up to begin with.

[@Sticknmove77]

@@ripmax333 ABS is toxic, right?

[@dylankirdahy9591]

You are by far the best source of information on 3D printing online. I cannot thank you enough for these incredibly well done and informative videos

[@chapinb18]

I have ZERO interest in printing ABS but your videos are still worth watching. I learned about the min layer time today that solved many of my nylon issues. Thank you!

[@me1ne]

the "technologic" reference brought a big smile to my face, big thumbs up :)

[@Tynted]

This series is absolutely excellent, Thomas, thank you for this. These will really cut down the guess work for a ton of people. Also, I have to say that your picky sponsorship policy of only allowing quality products to sponsor you on your videos, along with your blunt and honest reviews/livestreams are two of the reasons I keep coming back. Keep up the good work!

[@RayMerrell68]

Thanks Thom. I was having a nightmare trying to print off some stands for my heated bed. It kept coming out like hair. I watch it for 2 hours as my heating came on every 30 minutes and I could see the print degrading every time it switched off. I put the printer in an enclosure this morning and it's printing like a dream right now. I also fixed the filament rate after watching your video on that too :) So, you've helped my solve 3 problems in one day... My environmental temps, my flow rate and what the hell I was going to do with that massive server enclosure I was stuck with since the server went past it's sell-by date. :D

[@mortarriding3913]

Glad you did this one! I remember a while ago you were a bit critical of ABS, and it was actually interesting to hear you talk about the large variation in the plastic. I've experienced this. The varying types can result in massive differences in print quality, AND mechanical properties. And the same seems to be true of ASA. Wish there was a more clear and concise way of grading the material for 3D printing.

[@Advection357]

This is the most knowledgeable & resourceful 3D printing channel on youtube. Trust me I'm subb'd to many & most of them don't even know 1/2 their stuff like Thomas does. These filament 101 videos are a great idea! Thank you Thomas, you rule!

[@simplesimson1]

Hey Tom! Great to see that you are still around! :) I watched your old vids back when you always where looking a little besides the camera onto your telepronter :) The quality of your content is amazing (it s always been great content, but now the production quality is just top notch). So much info, packed into very little time and still not flooding my mind. Thanks for staying on youtube and doing your thing.

[@erezra]

Excellent tips! I ramped up the temp to 250 and while the print quality didn't change the first layer is much improved!

[@normcaissie5598]

Love the new filament videos Tom. Keep it up.

[@harrysstuff-n-such2062]

I just got into 3D printing a few weeks ago assembling an Anet A8 and really enjoying it thus far. So much so I'm neglecting my gaming (have not played ESO once since I got started printing). Anyway, thanks for the ABS info, especially since I started to build an enclosure for the A8 in preparation to expand to using ABS in the future. Look forward to any future vid on PETG...I use PETG tubing when water cooling my PCs and it would be fun to incorporate PETG printed parts into that...

[@sikolikhole]

I was in the middle if sparking a cigarette as he said "then again, people still choose to smoke". Time to stop.

[@tophatvideosinc.5858]

How's that going a year later?

[@sikolikhole]

@@tophatvideosinc.5858 well. I'm no quitter so I put it down again. Been 1yr free of cigarettes. Chew on the other hand is so damn good.

[@navidmehdi6]

@@sikolikhole that's great. And thank you to Thomas for being the catalyst to stop that.

[@NeoIsrafil]

I'm in the middle of smoking a cigarette... Not planning on stopping any time soon.. lol😂

[@kevin_delaney]

I like how you are starting off the new year! Looking forward to seeing what's next!

[@garagemonkeysan]

Great video. I use mostly ABS because it can bond to itself using acetone. That bond is typically stronger than the layer adhesion. Can also mix up a slurry to patch small gaps/defects in your prints. 😊

[@ReinAurre]

This is especially useful for making bigger things out of smaller parts. I do wish there was something else out there with equal or better strength/flexibility and acetone bonding/filling while being less of a pain to print than ABS.

[@Tunedawg23]

It's a very useful bit of knowledge, I often fix my kids toys which are made from abs with this slurry it's basically welding ABS plastic with ABS. Not a lot of people know about it but so many things can be permanently fixed with this method you can even just paint on with a brush to make thicker parts

[@proximityzero]

Great video! Concise and informative, and lots of great tips. One note: there are many UV-Clear spray paints available which provide a fair amount of protection from the sun, and also provide a nice finish to ABS parts. You make an excellent point about black filament, and those often provide great long-term protection (hence the large number of black ABS automotive components used). I'm really looking forward to your upcoming video on PET/PETG based filaments. These have become very popular filaments, but many struggle to get the most out of them.

[@lovecastle7154]

Wow Tom, I've not watched your vids for a month or two but I love the production quality and the new set!!

[@sittttam]

wow your Video series is so high quality and informative. Great Stuff, excited for more!

[@alexsimon1410]

Brilliant information. So fast it almost needs watching twice! I think this one beats the PLA one for me, as I think perhaps you took people's familiarity with PLA for granted a little.

[@Runoratsu]

I usually put a thin layer of thinly mixed ABS slurry (ABS dissolved in Acetone) on my (glass) print bed, and let that dry before warming up the printer. That worked the best for me for keeping the parts stuck down.

[@ussrover]

when you do PET, PETG etc video can you also include post processing (food grade) thanks (it is for one of my future projects

[@KriLL325783]

In theory all 3d printer plastics can be "food grade" though honestly it's hard to say for sure since they add additives without telling you, problem is the crevices etc especially between layers where undesired material like dirt and grime can build up and make a nice habitat for germs, solution is simple really, coat it in something that smooths it out, thick layer of primer and paint, or some kind of lacquer etc. As long as that material is food safe and you get enough coverage in the cracks and corners to fill them you should be solid.

[@ussrover]

hit it on the head what I'm looking for are "finishing" products that are food safe and dishwasher safe (high temp)

[@KriLL325783]

Oh, sorry not a clue haven't looked into that, good question though... The dishwasher bit is pretty tricky I imagine? most normal lacquers and paints should do for food safe you can wipe/wash carefully manually though.

[@spunkmire2664]

So this is what I use for my food grade items i print. I also keep a printer for just food safe items. taulman3d.com/680-features.html

[@DennisJHarrisonJrHere]

Look at products from master bond for dishwasher safe. For hand wash, use Shellac.

[@tb303wpf1]

"Then again, people still choose to smoke" Best statement ever!! HAHAHAH! 😂😂😂

[@Jayr1787]

Lol right!!

[@warisali6614]

Prant

[@76Richie19]

Awesome Darf Punk reference ! Great video

[@danielconway7190]

I love Darf Punk

[@MrDevilFlash]

27 minutes too late :D

[@tuxontour]

Even so I thought the same

[@timorouw5555]

@@danielconway7190 same, darf punk is the bom

[@alang6402]

Such good videos Tom. Tight, concise and so much good stuff. The best nugget for me there is extending minimum layer time to overcome melting in small features.

[@baz6128]

Diese aktuelle Serie ist sehr interessant. Ich freue mich auf weitere Folgen!

[@JamieBainbridge]

Could someone PLEASE remix that Daft Punk reference into an actual song?

[@CiaranWhelan]

Maybe better if we can get Tom to print eSun ABS white.... challenge accepted?

[@MiggyManMike]

Glad I'm not the only one who heard that, there is the daft punk keyboard, I wonder if we could get a Tom's specific version made ? :P

[@angeljoy5234]

That some nice meme material

[@RichRap3D]

Totally needs to happen - I'm amazed Tom didn't just mix it right into the video :)

[@angeljoy5234]

I always wonder if there was actually a meme page dedicated for 3d printing

[@Henchman1977]

I'm currently doing most of my prints in ABS for drines.... On an open air printer, no enclosure, ptfe lined extruder, using a PrintinZ print surface. Bed heated to 105c. Having very good results! I much prefer the ABS for functional / durable parts. I'm going to try and create some sort of enclosure though.

[@floriworidikkedori]

Great video Tom! If I print ABS it's basically to have cheap replacement parts for my printer (since most ABS is quite cheap, and it can withstand the heat from the hotend), and I print it at about 255-260°C with 5-10% fan (which I know most people are very sceptical about, but it works for me). There's definitely better options out there, but most of them are more expensive (I paid twice as much for my roll of PC, and about 40% more for standard PETG), so for personal use I tend to stick with ABS for higher-heat purposes.

[@sinformant]

Flor Sanders it is astonishing how many different methods people use to print abs. I have to seal my printer water tight with 0% fan to get abs to print well. I've had long prints fail because the door moved slightly and had a tiny crack letting in a small amount of outside air. The largest part of the hovalin I was printing suffered and warped badly and separated all over causing cracks. Also one abs I have prints well at 235°+ and another the sweet spot is 225°.

[@boomerangfreak]

Flor Sanders yeah same here, just sucks that atm with winter temps I'm having a lot of issues with cracking. Running in a semi enclosed chamber but the moment I fully enclose it my hotend fails

[@davidniemi4051]

I've been thinking of electronic bits getting too warm in an enclosure also and am trying to come up with a way to duct outside air appropriately to the electronic bits with some sort of ~1" / 25.4 cm very flexible hose & low speed outside fan(s). With the hot end also need to consider backlash on fast direction changes with light spring / elastic to keep some pretension on the hose.

[@floriworidikkedori]

I run it in an Ikea wardrobe with the doors closed, so nothing to crazy, and by letting the bed get to 100°C a few minutes (keeping the doors closed) before starting the print (through octoprint) works fine. For bed adhesion I use ABS juice, glue stick didn't seem to cut it but this never disappointed me.

[@TheBoojah]

I can also vouch for printing with a part cooling fan, for me at 20-40%. Requires a hot print temp for good layer adhesion, and a really good bed adhesion solution. Buildtak at 120 deg C worked well for adhesion, but be careful as it is easy to overdo the adhesion and risk ruining the buildtak when trying to remove the parts. With the fan on, the print comes out with great overhangs and detail, and there is less dimensional shrinkage which otherwise can ruin mechanical parts.

[@RossosHEX]

I've been lurking in this channel for long, and I finally found the opportunity to comment on something. I don't know if it was intentional or unintentional reference, but your listing of actions that could be performed on the ABS plastics immediately reminded me about "Daft Punk - Technologic" :D With the opportunity I would also like to thank you for the amazing content you put out to the world to see and learn from!

[@Stevieboy130664]

Fantastic channel! I have learnt so much in just a couple of days.

[@vaughanza]

Thanks Tom for another informative video. I a small amount of ABS printing but mostly do PETG wish works fine for some of the projects I do. It would be nice if you could a do video on top one or two filaments for Airbrushing models etc.

[@raise-project]

I really do like that grading. Thought often about that but never actually wrote it down.

[@jetblackstar]

Awesome daft punk injection there. Very smooth!

[@als1023]

Excellent information, very helpful, professional and well done, thanks !

[@REDACT3D]

7:12 this needs to be remixed in the style of daft punk ^.^ keep up the good work bud

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

I use only ABS everywhere,abs with acetone is best glue paint etc . Abs its simple to cut ,work with it, sand ,glue (just use drop of acetone) etc. Printing ABS ....hmmmm no cooling 100*C on bed 243-245 hotend add few % to flow ,after bed heat aply abs with acetone (ad acetone to reach something around tea) and aply smal amount on pre heated glass (yes after it reach 90*C ++) and i newer get problems when it cool down (sry for my eng)

[@brucejackson5898]

Sebastian Nurkowski totally agree about printing with ABS. I exclusively use ABS PC, way superior than crappy PLA. If you look into how the industrial FDM printers work their warping is greatly reduced than the warped parts in Tom's video. What a laugh at the box he has, he needs a heated box, not just the platform.

[@lightshadown]

if you also use Buildtak for the heatbed it Really improves the adhesion, it actually becomes a print and forget situation.

[@baz6128]

Hi Sebastian, I agree. ABS is by far the easiest to post process (sanding, solvent-welding, etc). I also think the raw printed surface is better than with PLA.

[@Stricken174]

I avoided BAS for a long time, but when i tried it... damn i love it. Maybe i got lucky, but i've got great experience with it. Super glossy after print (i'm printing about +5C above recommended), great layer adhesion, only con for me - too much time to preheat the bed) hair fixation spray does a great job) I'm using E3D V6 clone with PTFE tube down to the nozzle, but it feels great. With hair spray im preheating the bed to only 90C. Sometimes it sticks even too much.

[@OmarKhatib]

Love this series of videos! What kind of filament would you use if the part had to hold or be submerged in water indefinitely?

[@johnhickey1128]

I'm really enjoying the series Tom, keep up the great content!

[@caseyb1346]

I live in Texas and it is currently 38 celsius in my garage. Would that be a good environment to print ABS?

[@ManuelMcLure]

I'm definitely looking forward to the PETG episode, since I think I'm ready to "graduate" from PLA to PETG.

[@TotoGuy-Original]

It would have been good to discuss filtering methods for abs no one seems to do much of that. It may not be covered under abs basics but I think it is a subject that needs to be covered and there is not enough information out there about it

[@kinglarry3727]

Is there a quality all in one printer brand purchase to start printing with ABS or do I have to part out everything for the best quality of prints?

[@chokonmainatsu]

To be honest, i bought a CTC Printer from ebay (second hand) and i've got a little bit of PLA and tried printing it at about 210°C and my hotend leaked PLA a little bit and i had a few drops in the first model, after that i didn't have anymore PLA, but the seller gave one more fillament roll, which turned out to be ABS, because at 210 °C it barely got fluid, so i set the bed to 100°C and the hotend to 250°C and it prints very well. i only get warping, when printing stuff bigger than 5x5 cm. Its my first printer and i have it since 1 week, but so far ABS seems to be easier for me (at small models).

[@tripas421]

I need a part for permanent underwater placement. What type of filament should I use???

[@ignassungaila5781]

Im thinking of geting into printing other filaments thwn pla. Is fiberlogy a good brand?

[@wyvern4588]

Wouldn't use ABS for large parts/sculptures, but for small items, it works great! Acetone etching is also like magic. I use ABS for all my fan/extruder/bed parts where they are going to be right next to the nozzle and block. Been successful printing a 8hr bust with a Kossel, but my little Qidi is my go-to for ABS stuff where it's enclosed, wouldn't attempt it in a Y movement bed without enclosure. 235C-240C hotend, 90-100C bed, 40-50mm/s with a brim.

[@ThierryRey06]

Hello! thnaks for all good tips. I have a problem with ABS printing then a dry my filament and print into an enclosure but the problem still on my next print... Is there a way to send you images of my print for you tell me what you think?

[@primemac3dstudio18]

I have started out with PLA. I learned all about its setup. I loved the way it worked and was able to print many times with out any issues. So by an error in search trying to get PLA on Amazon it sent me ABS. I expect it would be nice to test out the other so I tested printing. I have had nothing but issues with ABS. From failed prints. To flat out prints that just fail half way with no issues with the temp. Yet every once and a while I get a print. Now there is no reason why a 13 hour print failed 5 times then the 6th one is successful. In fact I have tested PLA in many prints and have had massive successful prints. Yet when ABS I have had nothing but problems. I know we got some die hard ABS fans. Yet I have done the proper tests. Evaluated the temp issues. My filament is new and its PLA was rather perfect. I have to say ABS temp issue seems to be the bonding issue. Now I have tested this many times. Then I switched to PLA to see if I had any issues. That is when oddly 5 prints printed perfectly. Yet I go through 10 failed prints to 1 successful print. Now I have zero Idea why people like this Item. I printed another product that I use in the house. The PLA has no issue. Yet ABS has strength problem. I did some checking and found that ABS seems to have a bonding issue as it breaks instead of bends. PLA tends to bend to prevent breaking. I must say not a fan of ABS.

[@scienteer3562]

I keep saying Formfutura Titan-X / 3dfilaprint ABS-X is well worth a try. It doesn't warp at all and is very strong. Im on my third batch now.

[@greini1337]

I can totally confirm that. I printed around 3 kg of Titan-X without a single failed print.

[@romeo1245]

Which filament is better making medical orthosis ?thanks

[@apprentice2101]

The best way to keep ABS from warping I've found is to apply ABS slurry on a PEI bed. I was able to make 20x20 cm prints without significant warping (although removing it from the bed afterwards is quite a challenge). The ABS will also be under stress after printing, so baking the part while it's held in place can be beneficial.

[@arbjful]

What about tap holes?? I ordered some abs parts which have M5 tap holes, unfortunately the taps are not strong enough, the threads stripped off after a few turns of the M5 bolt. I am now thinking of using a hex bolt shaped recess that will hold a M5 bolt in place

[@danielecolizza3856]

Great video! Never stop learning by you!

[@Jamesn-js1zp]

Hi Thomas, I live in a tropical location where the humidity is always 80-90%. I'm new to 3D printing and still trying to decide which is machine is best and or even if it will be possible to achieve good quality prints because of the humidity. Ideally I'm wanting to print ABS, PLA, TPE and eLastic. Printers I'm looking at are either the Prusa MK3 or Creality CR-10S. Any input regarding machines and or humidity from you would be greatly appreciated.

[@kenolynyk4512]

This ABS is used for the gasket on my lint screen, in the base of my LG front loading washer. Have just ordered a 3rd one, as the gasket breaks down. Could there be something more durable out there? Disappointed in its short life. Do you have a suggestion?

[@machazard009]

Hi Thomas, your videos are really great and helps me print my ideas everyday. I usually print using PLA filament on my sunhokey prusa i3 acrylic frame 3d printer. Recently I purchased conductive ABS filament which requires proper chamber and everything so it doesn't warp. Since my printer structure is pure acrylic and its melting temperature is 135Degrees, I cannot use chamber to print my abs prints. I was wondering if i purchase a hot air hair styler and direct the hot air towards the bed from some distance to keep the air warm just near the bed area; will it help? My printer will be not in chamber and it may prevent some acrylic melting. Have you come across anyone who has tried this out? Thank you for your time.

[@dakotapahel-short3192]

I build my own heated enclosure that would get up to 45c about half way up the 1m delta & 40c is not enough for abs. I would say 50 to 60 would probably be better for large prints. Also sugar water works great for an abs bed. when it cools down the prints usually pop off.

[@AndrewHelgeCox]

How good is the rough glass bed of a Sidewinder X1 for ABS?

[@MileyonDisney]

Very informative and helpful. Thanks!

[@MolecularLevel]

besides the temperature resistance (which, if anything, have particular applications), why would any1 prefer ABS vs PETG?; been using PETG almost as often as PLA and is fantastic, no enclosure needed, no fumes, love it!

[@slicerjohn1897]

I have never used ABS because it still seems to be more trouble than it's worth, but I have found the perfect bed adhesion for PLA on my CR-10S I was thinking of making a short video on it but I haven't got round to it yet.

[@fraserlamb5787]

I would like to see a review/comparison of the hobbyking budget filaments. For around 15 quid the abs/ pla and polycarbonate all printed like a champ. I have my printer in a chamber but always run 60mm, 230-245c and the part fan at a fixed 35%.

[@jackass123455]

question what sort of filament would you recomend for high heat resistance (say in a car on a hot 30+c summer day (inside temps up to maybe even beyond 80c) that could be printed to a non heated bed (i know i know a heated be is favorable but i'm just starting and want to make bits for the interior of my car. like mounts etc for things like usb ports into trim pannels.

[@julianstaniewski1371]

7:12 call him rap god

[@epicnas12342]

Hi, I'm looking to start 3d printing in ABS. Is there any printers that could be recommended for me that are preferable £500 or under? Maybe even one that I can add an enclosure too after.

[@davidniemi4051]

Could Tom or anyone please provide a link to one of those deburring tools? Great video, I didn't realize there was such a variety of ABS properties, thanks a bunch.

[@davidniemi4051]

Thanks, I'm just having first coffee of the morning and had a bit of a brain fart.

[@Topy44]

There you go: pastebin.com/QFQtKkhU There are tons of them, in various price classes, just search for deburring tool on Aliexpress, eBay, etc... They are made for steel, but they work well on printed parts.

[@spikekent]

Hi David, this is the one I brought, not even used it yet, but nice to have for when I need it www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CRWK7IY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@777MAV]

I wanted to print some parts intended to work functionally in engine bay of a car. Those might be different components of intake, brackets mounted to engine or body holding wires, hoses or considerably light components like coolant tank or catch can. Is ABS good enough to work in this environment? I believe temps in engine bay can easily be over 80 degrees C, although I don't intend to use printed parts in hottest places obviously. Can you recommend any specific filament for this? Right now I printed some of the parts in PLA for mock-up and testing fitment, but planned to print final parts in ABS (can't remember specific brand or type, just got something together with my first printer)

[@NackDSP]

I bought a cheap micrometer and measured my first layer thickness (measured the brim). My printer apparently expected 0.2 mm thick "paper" when leveling the bed. Now my 0.2 mm first layer is actually 0.2 mm. I then adjusted the first layer temperature to get the desired bed adhesion. For my Monoprice Maker Ultimate with stock surface, that is 255C with bed at 100C. Hotter and I almost have to chisel the part off. Cooler and it pops off too easily.

[@Thinkyhead]

Apparently it's "byoo-tah-dye-een." Quite a mouthful!

[@joehumpston7937]

Thinkyhead Software that’s why we say ABS!

[@MaxC_1]

more accurately Byoot-a-die-ene (or dye-een sounds same)

[@SM89-]

7:10 queue the draft punk music. Technologic!

[@Moddingear]

Hey Tom, I've got extruder problems. I'm using 1.75mm filament bowden with the standard extruders you can find off Aliexpress (with 100 steps/mm) and an E3D v6 with genuine block, but I'm getting step loss. I maxed the power on my stepper drivers, added heatsinks to the motor, tried to change the MK7 hobbed bolt to a MK8 for added torque, but that just chews the filament. My nozzle isn't clogged (filament is going straight trough). I'm considering buying a Titan, but would that help ? I think my problem is with the bowden tube.

[@stockhuman]

Fun fact: I learned of ABS as the material LEGO is made of before knowing about out plastics or materials in general. It's knowledge that was strangely seared into my mind at age 7.

[@fCauneau]

Very very complete and interesting : thanks !!

[@LuckyX0182]

Thanks Tom for all yourevideos! Learned so much from them all :)

[@BoxJockey]

Would you recommend ABS for a part that will spend the majority of its time submerged in chlorinated pool water, or is there a better alternative for that use case?

[@jesseblanchard9609]

Box Jockey ABS will be fine, but print them two at a time and that way you always have an extra ;)

[@DogmaFaucet]

~5:25 A printer is OK in a chamber heated to around 40°C. "even if you have non-PLA printed parts on it". Maybe "especially if you have non-PLA parts on it"? Or did you mean to say that PLA is OK at 40°C?

[@VerstehenSieMathis]

I think he meant "Even if you have printed parts on it, as long as they're not PLA"

[@FredoCorleone]

It would be better to not exceed 30°C.

[@johnhmaw]

As always, very useful. Thanks.

[@Themadfranklin]

Good technique, very informative!

[@waynejohnson1500]

I think the Atom3D link is missing in the video. At least I didn't see an annotation when you pointed to the right top corner. ;)

[@_____7704]

Nice jumper dude - greetings from straya

[@TolicaCanadian]

Thank you Thomas! Great video!

[@timmieskills]

Could you please take a look at the dddrop leader twin 3d printer?

[@MakeItClever]

I like your studio setup.

[@bilbodd2777]

Very informative! especially the daft punk bit :)

[@rklauco]

Thanks for the great video. Will there be one with a bit more details on ASA?

[@gaWalt]

Hello Tom, I'm fairly new to 3d printing. I've been using a Polyprinter 229, at a Makerspace, and have been printing using ABS only. Is it more desirable to print using PLA? Is it just as strong as ABS? Someone told me that PLA has a tendency to collect moisture. Is that true? I hope you answer my comment. I'm trying to decide on purchasing my own 3d printer. I've been looking at the Prusa i3 mk3. So, if I print using PLA means I don't need an enclosure for it. Thanks in advance for any and all input. Gary

[@dondee4495]

My heating bed will only go up to 100 degrees. Is there anyway i can get the abs to stick to the bed? I have 8 huge spools of abs that wont stick to my adventurer 3 printer bed.

[@stevenmacmillan2493]

I get good results with a cheap glass plate on top of the aluminum, Aquanet hair spray on the glass, bed at 90 degrees (would like to get 100) running in an enclosure I built (I moved the electronics out of the box). Sometimes I still get a little portion pulling up from the bed, then I'll run it with a raft so the raft warps, not the part. Mine is (was?) an Alunar, same as Anet A8. Hope this helps!

[@stevenmacmillan2493]

Oh, and it's key to make sure your first layer is extremely close to the bed. So much so that the plastic squeezes out and is so thin that it's almost translucent. This may actually make the biggest difference!

[@AndyHopper-TheSmilingBaldGuy]

Love the "Technologic" homage!

[@plainchalk2953]

What brand do you recommend for printing with PLA?

[@imranmantavlogs]

Please tell me ,ABS material is useful for making battery casing?

[@frankenjstein9371]

Used to be all about ABS. I discovered PLA+. There is a special ABS from 3D printLife that I'm saving for a future project.

[@NeverStopSeeking]

Really love how you explain really well this stuff! Hope for a video on PETG soon :)

[@roarsaidthelion6087]

I second the request for petg

[@SearchWorlds]

I have the printer in my room, so abs is out of the question, so i really am curious about petg and would love a video a bout it in this style !

[@searcworlds1575]

PETGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!! They say a it easy to print like abs, but it really isn't for me :(

[@cerealkiller6749]

Pet!!! i hear good thing about it, but i am scared to try it

[@luhinets]

proper job! keep it up! thanks for good and meaningful review!

[@bzhmaddog]

Hi Thomas. I was wondering where do you buy your silica ?

[@MadeWithLayers]

I just get it from random Amazon sellers like amzn.to/2gW6zFm

[@VenomTheCat]

Wallmart sells big bags of it as kitty liter

[@yasardagasan309]

could someone please tell me how can ı use which filament in 3d printer. which material has good properties.

[@lillygreen18]

Great video. Thomas, Thank you.

[@alexmediagroup8971]

Hey! I was wondering a while ago about what you use that big bag of plastic pellets for. It would be great if you could tell me even though I don't think you will see this comment. :(