Thread cables thru frame - How to

Full details and helpful hints to successful cable routing

[@bklyncyclist]

I'm old school, with cables that would stick out the top of the levers, and then hidden brake cables, then hidden brifter cables. It wasn't until recently I started seeing these integrated frames/bars/headsets and wondered how they all go together. Now I know and could do it myself. It is a lot easier than I'd have thought. With wireless shifting it'll be even easier. Cables always were a mess on bikes no matter how they were routed and looked to be an afterthought.

[@jamescourier1545]

This is just outstanding. I am preparing to fit my 1X setup with an integrated gravel bar. These tips are incredibly helpful. I see me cursing quite a bit while doing this. Thank you very much from Michigan USA. 🙂

[@planetmongocommoditiesexch9079]

Very good, original ideas about sealing and cushioning not mentioned by anyone else. Good, clear instructions. Thanks!

[@63Baggies]

This guy is a very very good presenter, as I'm such a visual learner this is beginning to inspire me toward building my own bike.

[@roneysilveira7606]

Steve: another very good video. I always learn from your videos and have to tell you, after watch your R12 unboxing video, decided to purchase also R12 - 47frame size👍 Thanks for your continuous help. Waiting next video showing ULTEGRA components being install. My R12 assembly is matching your videos stage. Many tks from Brasil 🇧🇷

[@petesandle]

I used this tubing which I found on ebay to stop the rattle in my bike and its 100% done the trick. Super light, very easy to fit through the frame cable entrance. Saves you having to buy 10 meters of the stuff! Ebay Search - "Jagwire Internal Routing Dampener Foam Sleeve - 2m, Brake / Gear Cable Cover New"

[@brianmerryman6743]

Well done video Steve. That bike will be nice when its finished. Like to see you make a video once every 2 weeks verses once a month. Your video"s are very helpful.. Cheers..

[@PatrickLino]

Perfect timing on the video. My Yoeleo R6 frame just arrived and plan to use the Park Tool IR-1.2 Internal Cable Routing Kit. Thanks OZ!

[@cyclingmilan]

You might not even need it. Pushing the cables trough the frame is easy.

[@2wheelsrbest327]

Brain & Clifford have already said it Steve , doubt whether I will ever need to do it but still worth watching in case I ever do. Thanks.

[@sureshchinnappa2290]

Mate thanks for your advice on how to wax your chain. It worked and I am really happy with the end result. Be safe and Thankyou again.

[@tommarty879]

Great Video Steve, didn't know your name till saw it posted below. I am considering buying this frame and building it up over the winter. Looking forward to the rest of the build. I love your channel!

[@oftankoftan]

I've never seen someone use that disc brake quiet stuff on the headset before. Always ahead of the curve, as per us'

[@DaveKahn]

Nice sprint for the town sign in the end titles!

[@KyrosHouseCycling]

Another great video! getting lots of tips for when I build my R9

[@Jpmam832]

Hi Steve, you are the best...looking forward to see your next posting, cheers...

[@hyperbalent2775]

Great source of advice - love your vids. Love also my SRAM AXS wireless ;-)

[@glennoc8585]

Frame looks good Steve, love to hear your review long term.

[@Idefix70]

Thanks for an other very nice and informative video, i like the anti vibration foam! I think it is a good idea to put some protective layer (grease or anti seize compound) on bolts and nuts, just as an advisory though that torque values (unless otherwise stated) are dry torque and not wet torque. Just be careful that you don't over tighten nuts when you use a lubricant. Cheers

[@reneduval1937]

I really like your youtube channel. I find that both your experience and your manual skills are of great service to the cycling community. I am writing to you because I have decided to build a road bike to my liking and especially within a budget that is reasonable for me. I ordered a frame from Yeoleo, the R11 for caliper brake. I will ride it with an ultegra D12 group. However I am facing a manufacturing conformiter issue with the lower head tube. Bottom bearing does not go straight and not deep enough into the tube. The thickness of the head tube here is variable and not quite circular. I tried to compress the entire headset adequately, but a large gap is visible between the head tube and the fork. Yeoleo tells me that I don't need to put on the Crown race. I have serious doubts in this regard. One, because the bearing does not fit into the head tube properly, and two, because without the crown race the lower bearing can get damaged I think. I managed to remove the bottom bearing which was really stuck in the tube but it's broken, I had to order a new one. I would like to have your opinion, because at the moment I am waiting for a solution from Yeoleo. (I gave them pictures of the problem and a description, a company mechanic is supposed to see to this problem). In the event that the frame is not replaced, can I gently sand or buffer this inner part of the tube in order to allow the bearing to enter properly but without weakening this part of the bike? If so, should a product be used to protect this area after sandblasting? Also what do you think about the crown race, is it essential? Thank you for your attention.

[@stevenleffanue]

Often top bearing is deeper than lower bearing.. make sure correct bearing is used....should be appx 6mm. Yes you can sand inner head tube for good fit of bearing. You will need good eyes to see exactly where to sand. You don't need crown race ring. Sealed bearing inner race can sit directly onto carbon crown if it is the same shape.

[@reneduval1937]

@@stevenleffanue Thank you for your quick reply. It's appreciated. I cannot go wrong between the lower and upper bearing because they are not of the same diameter (1 1/8 and 1 1/2) and I know well in which direction the installed ones. I hope the delicate sandblasting operation will go well.

[@rosskline]

These tutorials are awesome. Thank you!

[@JamyRyals]

The integrated frames do look nice, but I’m not sure the amount of extra fiddling about is worth it.

[@hotrockin197]

Yeah, cant be arsed with all that messing around. The bike should be fcuking 100% sorted for the £800 i paid for it☺😝

[@alannewman85]

Nothing like a nice tight seal around the shaft.

[@Tetters100]

Another great video - Thanks!

[@cyclingmilan]

Hi Steve, Since the post service and customs are taking their good old time, I'm still waiting on my handlebars :( but that means I could watch your video before I do it myself :) Awesome video! 1. I notice the gap between the top cap and your frame is a lot bigger than on mine. I got a 7mm bearing and a 8mm bearing, and with the 7mm bearing on top the top cap sits nicely over the frame with a couple paper with wide gap (

[@stevenleffanue]

H.set rubber washer needs be thinner than the gap. No sharp bend in my F mech cable and yes a rubber stopper to stop water ingress. All in the next vid

[@cyclingmilan]

@@stevenleffanue Thanks for answering. I have one more question, do you consider maybe drilling a small hole at the bottom of the BB area to release water that found it's way into the frame somehow?

[@stevenleffanue]

Mmmmm...no. Try preventing moisture getting in. The bb unit can be taken out for inspection at the end of wet season maybe

[@DunderOz]

Brilliant! Wonderful work.

[@Manetty6]

in fact I love this channel, I wish you can have a microphone with better sound quality.

[@stevenleffanue]

Yes , hopefully I can get a 'Rode' wireless one.

[@crossvet]

I find the lower headset bearing is the one that picks up the moisture and and dirt, surprised that you don't pack the grease in there? Great video.

[@stevenleffanue]

Grease attracts dirt.

[@crossvet]

@@stevenleffanue so does riding CX.

[@seakayaker20]

Excellent tutorial - still prefer external cables on some of my bikes.

[@anom185]

La mejor explicación de youtube

[@robbiwright3517]

Great series thank you!

[@northboundservices7615]

Hi sir your bike its sooo awesome hope i can have that. even your old bike that you didn't use or old parts of your bike if give me im very appreciate it coz idont have money to buy it, im shy but i like it thats why i ignore it, please don't judge me. Sorry for my english coz im in the Philippines. God bless you all

[@roneysilveira7606]

Steve: please send next video: just waiting new tips tks

[@stevenleffanue]

Nearly finished next one , hopefully tmora 😁

[@dioright]

3:30 I am absolutely shocked by that gap. I have similar issue on 50 yo steel bike, and didn't expect that from modern one... I have a lot abusive words for those who responsible for that...

[@stevenleffanue]

I think they supplied the wrong bearing.

[@cyclingmilan]

@@stevenleffanue Yes pretty sure you have the wrong bearing. My top cap on the R12 sits perfect with a 7mm high bearing.

[@ozziegamingservers82]

@Oz Cycle Hey mate since your in Australia why are you using front brakes on the left? Is it not possible to route this bike's front brake to the right?

[@stevenleffanue]

Route it to your preference

[@nigelliam153]

It used to be that a bike was set up so you could use the rear brake while giving hand signals. When I was at school we still had the police come around once a year to give safety talks on cycling and they'd always get half a dozen bikes from the racks to inspect. If you had a back pedal brake with a front caliper with the handle on the left they'd tell you to change it over. These laws may also be state by state basis and obviously there's a lot of tourists bring their own bikes which would be plumbed up to their local rules so it's probably not policed anymore.

[@florian4181]

If I ever had to seal my head bearing like that, I would throw away the frame. And I have never had headset creaking. Just grease the headset bearing. That's all. Grease! And if you ride in the rain, just degrease and regrease it again once a year. If you want, you can clean the bearings by opening the seal, clean everything with brake cleaner and ispropanol. The reassemble it with new grease. That's all. What the heck is this all for? Standard are the foam tube for the brake tube to stop rattling. Or use some cable ties and don't shorten them. But the foam tubes are better.

[@Hawlkeye-e9p]

That kind of setup goes against the way i live. 1. Non adjustable bars 2. Live in florida or humid place 3. Sugar sand and humidity 4. Deep seeded hatred for icr 5. Remove it all in 3 mins. Clean and or replace.

[@stevenleffanue]

Agree.Hopefully integration will get better in time

[@ulaev]

first from Lithuania :)

[@derekhobbs1102]

I think I'll just stick with external cables.

[@Hawlkeye-e9p]

Dude thats no joke. That stuff is bananas. No way i would go that far. 3 mins im done and riding.

[@itsm3th3b33]

I'd like to route cables internally but the SRAM eTAP came with no cables. 😉

[@glennoc8585]

It's ok if you are using di2 or wire less

[@itsm3th3b33]

@@glennoc8585 Note that Di2 is NOT wireless.

[@brianblakeley7069]

great vid! i just received an r12 frame and debating getting someone else to construct it or myself to do it (i also bought a set of yeoleo 60mm carbon wheels with ceramic bearing upgrade). your series for this frame is perfect! thanks again. by the way, do you still use the r12 or have you moved to another frame?

[@stevenleffanue]

Yes, r12 still going strong!

[@milybanily]

Nice video.

[@steveindorset]

Really great vid Steve. Really looking forward to the next one.😉👍 How flat is Aussieland Steve?? On that intro it looks really really flat! 😁😁😁

[@stevenleffanue]

That ride was flat....only about 200m climbing in 107km.

[@JP..]

We have Mount Lofty and the Adelaide Hills as well!

[@LuescherTeknik]

I understand the level of detail that you are going to here however I have a few concerns about the fork steerer with this approach. Firstly I think that the steerer should be inspected at regular intervals for wear at the upper bearing retaining ring and not be a set and forget area of the bike. We have seen quite a lot of wear at this area due to poor manufacturing tolerances and poor adjustment of the headset bearings. This wear needs to be checked before it becomes a potential serious problem. Also having the rubber peice in the stack may result in movement of the headset over time which could exacerbate the wear. For these reasons it may be better for this work to be done by an experienced mechanic rather than a DIY how to guide.

[@stevenleffanue]

Agree Raoul , integrated systems make it more complex to service and inspect a head area. The rubber hood on this bike is not part of the spacers its a weather shield covering only...headset not needed any adjusting in over 7,000km so far and we got rough country roads here.

[@Lapinou658]

Nice video, but is this an outer cables to inner cables conversion ? Or is the bike an inner cable one from the start ? Is it carbon ? Is or was there a hole in the fork ? (if ut's a conversion did you drill one ?) And don't the 4 cables/pipes rub (inside) against the tube of the fork ? (everytime you turn, the pipes move and kind of rub normally ?). Thanks 😉👍

[@stevenleffanue]

The frame and bars are designed to facilitate integrated cables. The steering angle is small enough so cable rub is almost non existing.

[@arielhasson196]

Thanks for the great video Steve. I am assembling my first frame and this is of great help. The Brake Quiet tubes are not available where I live. Would you advice to use Loctite or other thread locker instead? Thanks in advance

[@stevenleffanue]

What do you want to use thread lock for?

[@arielhasson196]

@@stevenleffanue Thanks for the swift reply. I had seen you applied the disc brake quieter around the bottom bracket and and fork tube bearings. As I could not find the same material in The Netherlands, where I live I wondered if applying loctite or thread locker in the same manner you used the rubber glue, would be possible. Thanks again, Ariel

[@Fluxyzabc]

Hi Steve, tremendous work here! May I ask you regarding the cable foam: do you use two separate parts for the chain stays and the downtube, leaving a gap for where the bottom bracket is?

[@stevenleffanue]

Correct. Often only shorter pieces will fit in the stays. Try getting it on near the bb also as it can still rattle there.

[@Purosistematic]

Great video Oz, thank you!! I´ve looked everywhere for the C shaped top bearing retainer, can´t find it anywhere. Do you have some suggestion? Did it come with the handlebar? Thanks

[@stevenleffanue]

It comes with the headset

[@eeul]

Hi Steve, what diameter was the key seal? Was it 50mm? Great instructional video for green garage bike mechanics!

[@stevenleffanue]

ID 40mm , OD 65mm

[@douglee8158]

I know this is off topic, but I remember in one of your videos you said that with carbon rims, the tire psi should be deflated to 80 psi or so after every ride or at least at the end of the day. Wouldn’t that cause more stresses on the tire sidewalls, stems, etc. by constant daily inflating and deflating? Are you referring to possible carbon “tire channel” rim warpage if tire psi stays high over an extended period of time? Thanks.

[@stevenleffanue]

A lot of wheel manufacturers now recommend it now. High pressure for long periods of time may warp the wheel.

[@Kptblaubear]

Awesome video with a lot of helpful tips. I cant find this disc break rubber stuff for my country. Do you know alternatives available in europe?

[@stevenleffanue]

Ask at your local auto store

[@goldzilla77]

Hi thanks for the video , what size is the seating washer ?

[@mitskoala0380]

how to thread cables thru frame ... me : bring the frame to the bike shop, let them suffer, i have a zero patience and luck when it comes to cable management

[@scottadams9770]

Do you know what Yeoleo means when on their order site the "not decal" option. I'd rather not have the decals, but don't know what color the. frame will actually be?

[@stevenleffanue]

Choose your colour then if you want decals or no decals.

[@scottadams9770]

@@stevenleffanue Thanks, Mate! Looking at the frame you have, can the decal be removed at home? Or is it sealed under the paint clear-coat?

[@JogBird]

im weird in that i like the look of external cables, my road bike is red w contrasting white cabling and other acsents

[@stevenleffanue]

Not wierd....we have 2 riders here who only ride steel frames and 1 has carbon deep dish rims whilst the other says its sacrilege. 😂🚲

[@v90cross2]

when do we use grease or Loctite for bolts and nuts? it's a little confused sometimes.

[@tommarty879]

on your last video you had to file down the drop out to make the through axle fit. Is this a sign that the frame is out of alignment and wheel will not have a proper fit? Could this cause uneven tire ware?

[@stevenleffanue]

The dropout itself wasnt machined exact.

[@derekhobbs1102]

Question about your Ultimate tool trolley, how many bearing slides do the drawers have? All the ones I try to check are locked, and there's never anyone around to help.

[@stevenleffanue]

I cant see any bearings Derek,just slides on plastic inserts which fit into steel struts. They slide well and dont drop when fully extended....strong too.

[@richardbryant5939]

I might have missed it but do you have a link or description on where your acquired the Anti-vibration foam?

[@stevenleffanue]

Wiggle , Chain reaction , ebay.

[@milangoga2541]

Hi Sir, As I do not have any opening under bottom bracket shell, is it possible thread wires directly through shell and continue inside of chain stays tube for rear disc break and rear derailleur, will it somehow affect bottom bracket friction? In case it will not affect, does cables need to go above the bottom bracket as it show on diagram in you video?

[@stevenleffanue]

If your bb unit has a casing around the axle it will be ok. Go for the least curved path ..frames vary in shape.

[@cammac3805]

Can you use the Disc brake quiet between a bottom bracket shell and a carbon frame to remove squeaking?

[@stevenleffanue]

Yes. Its in an upcoming video...R12 bike build

[@andreabuono9693]

Hi all, In Italy I can't find the ' Disc Brake Quite', I find a 'liquid rubber' from Bostik, it could be an alternative? Or Can someone help me to something better? Thanks

[@Fungi.are.cool.]

Do you think it would be possible to build this bike with cable-actuated hydraulic disc brakes like the Juin tech F1? Can you feed the brake cables through such an headset?

[@stevenleffanue]

You could try it but mechanical cables don't like going around tight corners.

[@Incaensio]

I would have cut the steerer shorter as to not have that spacer above the stem.

[@stevenleffanue]

Not best practice for safety

[@djarotceria9732]

what size anti vibretion foam ID and OD ?

[@djarotceria9732]

what size is anti vibration foam ID and OD ?

[@stevenleffanue]

5mm ID 8-10mm OD will do it

[@djarotceria9732]

@@stevenleffanue ok thanks ... greetings always healthy

[@yennyharris7109]

Go giveaway Steve 🤭🤭🤭

[@Vova3iLvova]

hi comment section. are ICETOOLZ 67B4 cutters good enough for home use (cable housing) or should i get something more expensive? thx.

[@santiagobenites]

I'd say that those Ice Toolz cutters are great for home use. I've used them before.

[@ljadf]

Through

[@ronicallmen]

Sir I need the information, what is minimum bore of head tube diameter that can fit internal cabling. I have 44 on the top and 55 on the bottom. Can I insert the cables from it.

[@stevenleffanue]

No. The top headset needs to be internal 31mm bearing. Also consider how the front brake cable is going through the fork steerer and exits on the blade.

[@ronicallmen]

@@stevenleffanue I have fork with internal hole and outer hole also. So no issue about the fork, only concern about the head tube. The 44 is the internal diameter of head tube we get it.

[@stevenleffanue]

Top of headtube needs to be 51mm

[@ronicallmen]

Ok thanks and appreciate your feedback, god bless you and have great day.

[@jedi86694]

Hello sir where did you buy the rubber sleeve for the spacers? Thanks

[@stevenleffanue]

www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/lifeline-internal-routing-anti-vibration-foam/rp-prod185571

[@jedi86694]

@@stevenleffanue thank you 👍😊 I made a mistake what I meant is the rubber thing on the headset to keep from the water from getting inside.

[@trisupersport1478]

Друг какой у тебя рост , и какая размер рамы?

[@ratoneJR]

I am a function over form guy...cables exposed.

[@haakman123]

Second not from Lithuania :)

[@djarotceria9732]

what size 2 bearings the headset is ?

[@stevenleffanue]

1 1/2"

[@djarotceria9732]

@@stevenleffanue tanks you 👍🙏

[@wasupwitdat1mofiki94]

Fully integrated hidden cables do nothing but make your bike harder to service, and with a couple of brands made the bike dangerous to ride, and are only desirable to cyclists with OCD drinking the koolaid. Be smarter people, there is absolutely nothing bad about cables and brake hoses showing on a bicycle.

[@bozwellmb]

That headset boot looks ugly as F@@@ shame because it’s a nice looking frame. Designers of bikes need arse whipping when it comes to this area.

[@SolidxSnakexDuke]

don´t promote so a stupid system it´s need hours to replace something

[@dalevincent1375]

What a mess! No thanks