Three Joints, a Handful of Tools | Paul Sellers

[@mrboics]

8 minutes passed in what felt like 80 seconds. Time flies when your having fun. Thanks Paul.

[@maciej9280]

you need to slow down the video ;)

[@darodes]

@@maciej9280I was gonna say he needs to adjust the playback speed 😁

[@timmynormand8082]

Agreed

[@philmann3476]

Another reminder from Mr. Sellers that if you know what you're doing, you don't need a shop full of the most expensive tools and gadgets. Well done.

[@hectorcorral2419]

AMEN to that

[@radharcanna]

Paul, I like how you speak to the amateur woodworker as well as to the most advanced. You bring it all down to earth in a clear and precise style. Please keep making these high-quality videos.

[@andyc972]

Thanks Paul, and this is the wonder of woodworking, it doesn't have to be complicated or very costly !

[@wrstew1272]

I know 50+ years were put into a few minutes of discussion, but the mortise on the rear portion of the drawer isn’t just a fancy addition, it helps prevent racking if the drawer is pushed from just one side, rather than from the center. I know that the modern glues are wonderful, but proper design and tight joints are the basis of sound construction. If it looks like a highly skilled craftsman made it, then that’s a bonus!

[@kimmosaarinen2780]

Thanks for this insight, I'll keep this in mind when I'll make my first drawers for something. I absolutely loathe drawers that need to be pushed absolutely from the middle :D

[@michaelgibson4705]

Initial outlay for hand tools approximately £200,60 yrs experience behind them,priceless.All the best for 2024

[@ImOnAJourney]

Perfect advice! My biggest mistake when I got started was buying a bunch of tools that I thought I needed, that I had to have - I’ve barely used most of them. I keep telling myself that my kids can sell them when I’m gone! 😂

[@user-mr3uw5ej6k]

Happy birthday, Paul have a wonderful day and thank you for all your lessons you teach us

[@w.davidmcguinn8674]

Dear Professor Sellers. You brought me to woodworking on KZbin. Thank you so much. In 2011, I had the privilege of hiking through the village of Khumjung, Nepal, the closest major village to Everest base camp. The village square is occupied by a statue of Sir Edmond, the children's school is named for him. Our guide had learned that I was a woodworker so he took us to a covered but open air furniture shop. The tools they used and for the most part all they had, are the tools you showed in this video. I was inspired. Many thanks for your excellent tutelage. Cordially, W. David McGuinn.

[@antoniolopes8776]

In many circumstances of life «less is more».

[@richardrearick1975]

Paul you have been an inspiration to me! Also you have a birthday today the same as my daughter which is awesome and happy birthday!

[@chrisferguson237]

Really appreciate your content Paul, I leave with a little more knowledge.

[@kimmosaarinen2780]

Thanks to Mr. Sellers, I got into woodworking and with the most basic handtools that I restored, I inherited those from my long gone grandpa. I've made cutting boards, trays, handles to cutlery, mallets, saw horses, footstool, bird houses and probably bunch of stuff that I forgot. I don't even have proper workbench with proper vice (yet), but I'll make do, thanks to Mr. Sellers "You can do it" attitude and teachings. Ofc I've had to buy lot of tools, chisels, marking tools, measuring tools and whatnot, but I've usually purchased the cheap-ish stuff, like chisels, the handles may be not that good but just sharpen them after purchase and you're good to go. Once again: Thank you, Paul. Sincerely.

[@davidwilliams1383]

"Working wood with Paul Sellers" is a great book if you can find a copy... also very clear and educational.

[@pidgeonpost]

Thanks Paul. I like the idea of a through mortice and tenon for the drawer back. Simple, strong and decorative in its own way.

[@kato2531]

Such a simple concept, 3 joints with variations for all of wood working … but it takes what seems to be a life time to master.

[@mcapo3040]

Starting out: "I only need a #4 plane, a few chisels, saw, mallet, square, marking gauge, and a few other things to make things out of wood? I got this" 😁 Years later looking at how many hand tools I've acquired: "Still got space in the tool roll for one more carving gouge 😅"

[@Burdo_513]

This is very relatable 🤣

[@stevefowler3398]

It's a bloke thing! Women buy shoes. Men buy tools.........

[@larryk6330]

You have such a great insight to this craft. I've been a woodworker for over 25 years and I always seem to learn something new from you. Thanks you.

[@lesdrinkwater490]

Thank you Paul.

[@christopherharrison6724]

Happy Birthday Mr Sellers and thanks for all the information over the past few years.

[@joeduffy9764]

Happy belated birthday to you, 74yrs young!! 🎉

[@vince55sanders]

You guys rock! Thank you and your team for all the education and first class videos.

[@hughs591]

A very clear and encouraging video, thank you . . .

[@christopherharrison6724]

Always a joy to hear you waxing lyrical about the subject you have so much passion for.

[@TermiteUSA]

Its nice to see your hands working well Paul. Cheers!

[@daiblaze1396]

Thank you for the reminder. Like some wrote. This video went so smooth. Your passion and will to share is a joy to watch. Have a wonderful year ! 😘

[@taffpatch1]

Love him x

[@CalcioReLenatore]

Hello from Port Orchard Washington State USA. Thanks for your advice/lessons Paul. I have learned so much. Keep it going. Happy safe New Year.

[@mrkkitson]

Thank you Sir! You are just such a an inspiration!!

[@Jeff_C_2112]

Happy Belated Birthday Mr. Sellers!

[@designsanddimentions]

Beautifully to the point

[@plainnpretty]

Happy birthday Paul and thanks for the great videos

[@theroofskillsclub]

All good stuff Paul, as a carpenter and joiner splayed angle joints are some of my favourite. Knowledge of marking out these angles are key when doing splayed or compound miter joints for Hip roof Purlins and can also be applied to marking out and doing finer work like splayed boxes or door frame and window casings!

[@dpmeyer4867]

Thanks

[@ohwowthatsgood]

Cheers. Happy belated birthday!

[@michaelhall6930]

Cool channel, cool vid. Yes, how simple the tools can be, and how freeing to know that with just those few, so much can be done. Thank you sir!

[@MCsCreations]

Thanks a bunch for the lesson, Paul! 😊 Happy new year! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@slomo1562]

The one thing I'd ask Paul to add is a bench with vise. I've tried cutting these joints without the help of a vise by using various clamps and it does not compare to even an inexpensive vise.

[@skwalka6372]

To Paul's list I would add two other items, which I find absolutely essential, a shooting board and a compass divider. You can dispense with the sliding bevel and the dovetail guides, dovetails made by "eye" are as good as any.

[@joeduffy9764]

❤ Great video Paul

[@artswri]

Great info, thanks! Love my router planes, use them routinely.

[@kennethnielsen3864]

Thanks for sharing.

[@MASI_forging]

Another great video 😃😃

Thank's Paul

[@DC9V]

Awesome!

[@ianpearse4480]

Happy New Year. Great share as always.

[@deezynar]

That's very true, you don't need many tools to make most joints, but there are three more that people will find helpful. You need a skew chisel to get the waste out of half-blind dovetail corners. It's not essential, but many people like to remove most of the waste from through dovetails with a coping saw. Lastly, you need to make the grooves for drawer bottoms, which is a joint that you didn't mention. A home made plane that uses a narrow chisel works. Bottoms are always the same distance from the bottom edge of the drawer, so it works fine with a fixed fence. Very simple and cheap. You may have shown how to make one a while back, I can't remember. I know you showed how to make a rebate plane.

[@stevefowler3398]

You weren't paying attention, were you! Bottom of the class. Extra homework for you lad.........

[@deezynar]

@@stevefowler3398 I believe that it's important for the people who read what I write to understand what I'm saying and what I'm referring to. If what I write is not understandable, then it doesn't do anyone any good and I wasted my time. Your reply to me did not make anything clear and it was a waste of your time.

[@DaveMar-w6r]

Thanks, Paul. Happy new year

[@AB-C1]

Excellent 👍

[@panzerpatriot4920]

Hi Paul. I would like to have your advice, or anybody else's here: What saw can you recommend for very fine work on plywood? Some people recommend good old rough western saws, and there are also japanese dozuki and kataba saw models with extra hardened teeth that are suited for this kind of material, but all of them are more for rough and not fine work and I was wandering if you could advice one of those compact saws you've used in your video's, such as pax gents saw, or any other saw that could hold it a bit without destroying it's teeth in short time. Much appreciated. Best regards, Pavel

[@lagazhang7380]

Happy New Year Mr Sellers!

[@freshcoatpaintingmore9951]

I like the look of the little 3 drawer cabinet on the right of the bench was that in a video before or could you tell us about it in the future

[@ihosvaniarregoitia]

Un saludo desde mex

[@jimcarter4929]

Happy Birthday.

[@jacquesfouche8961]

Do what you can with what you have. Minimalism. ❤ it!

[@whowinshere]

Very informative though you omitted the workbench, vice and sharpening tools.

[@danwlong]

I love that knife! What is it?

[@monkeyfaceII]

Where do I get that dovetail saw his talking about??

[@jimcarter4929]

Amazon has Crown 10 inch dovetail saw for around 30 bucks.

[@toshn4151]

Question: how perfect does the wood have to be in order do Dovetails and M&T? Is perfect S4S required, or is there some wiggle room? I ask because I am not very confident in my ability to "true" a board with hand tools just yet.

[@damianainscough]

As a perfectionist, I was initially fearful and hesitant then just had a go, made mistakes, and learned. Maybe use some reclaimed wood? I was given an old oak drop leaf table and found most of it really good, quarter sawn timber. Buying expensive timber may make you more hesitant! Good luck.

[@jimbo2629]

Interesting question. As a beginner buy the best you can afford. If you make a dovetailed box it will look better and be easier to make if you have some decent wood. If you can’t afford much, still go ahead and be ambitious. A box with poor joints is a lot better than one that’s held together with nails or screws.

[@joshuamurphy5073]

Seems to me you have options. Buy S4S, prioritize learning to true lumber, do all of your milling with machines, make friends with someone who has milling machines... I don't think I would try making dovetails on boards that are not true. Mortise and tenon, though, you could practice on logs if you felt like it. If the lumber isn't milled properly, it'll just be rustic looking.

[@ricos1497]

Concentrate on getting two sides flat and square, and that'll work for most joinery. You can save a lot of time leaving outside faces close to perfect and things like undersides of tables, drawers etc.

[@erikcarlson9250]

You may find some comfort by watching how Peter Follansbee follows the practices of early modern workers in green wood; often, the backs of his boards are pretty rough, and the joinery is all measured from the finished faces. "Perfect" is Latin for "finished," not "flawless." Keep at it and do better each time! Anything worth doing is worth making mistakes at.

[@sjwestmo]

Thank you and I appreciate this! Is that the Gents hand saw?

[@VDHandcrafted]

The smallest one, yes.

[@grahamwelch1370]

Great video Paul and explained perfectly for a beginner like me. Also can i ask what is the marking knife you use and do you ever use the knives with one flat surface?

[@ricos1497]

It's the Stanley Folding Pocket knife # 0-10-598 UK version. It's not a single bevel. Paul has an article on his blog about it, it's pretty much the only knife he uses. They're very inexpensive normally, but the price probably went up this week as his article was just published last week! His recommendations tend to affect price in the short term at least. Whilst I don't find the knife suits me, I think I'm in the overwhelming minority, so it's definitely worth getting one. Remember you can sharpen the blade too.

[@murphyandmurphybrand]

Is there any advantage to a through tenon over a normal tenon. Or is it mainly an aesthetic choice?

[@Lauradicus]

Ah, yes… but… you forgot one of the most important tools: the sharpening stone! Wink, wink, nudge, nudge. 💛

[@chuckcagle5324]

Paul. Would you consider making a video of making a bowtie inlay

[@bogdanaasarbu8038]

Great video! I have a beginner question : How important is for a beginner to have a jointer plane? For me is very hard to make a straight edge or a flat surface with my no4 plane. Will the jointer plane be the magic solution for me and all other beginners?

[@nicetryfbi357]

It won't be a magical solution, you also need to learn the proper techniques, but surely it's a valuable addition. I saw a bunch of people saying that you could get away with a no. 4 as a "jointer", meaning that you can selectively flatten the high spots in a board, but I find the processo be preposterously long and complicated. A wider flat reference surface will always work better than a smaller one. A no.6 or even a jack can work as jointer as long as the board's length is less than 3x the length of the plane's sole.

[@orbitalair2103]

@@nicetryfbi357 I agree, it not magic, or a one all solution. I got a #6 for joining, seems to be the correct thing for jointing boards about 36" long, as my table top came out pretty well. and it was the most expensive of the 3 planes i bought, a #4, a #5 and the #6, at about $130. i think its a taylor. Its my first table, and I am also a beginnner.

[@bogdanaasarbu8038]

​@@nicetryfbi357 Thanks for your answer. I think I really really need a jointer. With the no4, I can only make a lot of small waves on the edge. Can I ask another beginner question? A jack plane, can it have a straight edge iron? Is the straight edge ok for removing a lot of wood?

[@nicetryfbi357]

@@bogdanaasarbu8038 if you're using the jack as a fore plane, you'll be better off with a highly cambered iron. I don't see any applications in planes where you need a straight iron. I lightly cambered iron makes all the difference for jointers, smoothers and even jack. I have a no. 5 set up as a smoother, fine mouth and lightly cambered iron, it works great. If you need to remove a lot of material, I suggest using a scrub plane: it's either a dedicated no. 4 with a huge mouth and a heavily cambered iron, or any small plane with the same setup.

[@robertlybarger]

I've read somewhere that any plane is good to flatten a board up to twice its length, as rough guidance. I don't currently have a plane longer than a #5, and I don't often work on long members that need to be *super* flat. However if you're looking for ideas in the mean-time... I have a 4.5-foot metal track guide for a circular saw that works as a straight edge. Set it on the board in question and note where the high spots are (the straight edge will want to swing/pivot on them) or whether the two ends are high (the straight edge will kind of "wiggle" free in the middle). Also look for where light peeks in between the board and the straight edge. Then work the high spots down (just those problem spots) until the straight edge rather "drags" evenly. There's still a fair amount of skill-building with using any kind of plane, and I expect that's still true with longer planes.

[@kevinstringer4276]

Do you not use a coping saw on your dovetails?

[@jimcarter4929]

He chops them in this case, but he does use a coping saw too. Point of video is to show the few tools needed to actually make the joints.

[@kevinstringer4276]

@@jimcarter4929 I don’t think I’d ever dovetail or advise someone to dovetail without one it seems like a bit of a mistake maybe he forgot we all have an off day. I’m pretty sure that even in his own videos he uses one.

[@ricos1497]

​@@kevinstringer4276 nah, Paul regularly chops dovetails with a chisel. He even has instructional videos on doing so. The time saving is marginal using a coping saw, and it offers no increased accuracy. I mostly use a chisel because I find it more fun and rewarding. Paul's videos aren't aimed at those doing production runs of single items. I cut some dovetails for a desk I'm doing the other day, and there simply isn't enough dovetails on the entire project to consider the time saved on using a coping saw over a chisel (I need a new coping saw blade regardless, so it was a moot point). If you're producing multiple items in a run, then consider speed, otherwise just do what you find easier, as the preparation and sizing of the wood is likely to take significantly more time than the joinery in most cases.

[@jimcarter4929]

@@ricos1497 He has used a coping saw before on waste.

[@ricos1497]

@@jimcarter4929 yes, I didn't suggest otherwise. Paul's work is aimed at getting people into woodworking without having to buy hundreds of tools. Most people won't need a coping saw (I haven't used mine in a long time) unless they're using it for dovetails, so there's no need to buy one at the outset. If you're doing lots of dovetails, or cutting lots of curves, then buy one.

[@lelandallen]

You forgot 60 years of experience

[@AprilAllYear]

I *had* to stop and watch this when it looked like the opposite i would tell my son: never EVER use tools when you've had 3 joints! 🤣😔

[@theblackone89]

Lmao i thought the same thing, 3 joints and a handful of tools sounds like a fun afternoon 😂

[@apinakapinastorba]

Concerning the saw handles: you said the straight handle is much more comfortable compared to pistol handle. I think it varies from person to person. For myself, using a straight handle really hurts the wrist. With pistol handle there’s no pain whatsoever. Not to discredit your experience at all, just to share my own.

[@andrewwebb1911]

Thank you Paul.

[@ferguscosgrave7510]

Thanks