RYOBI P113 Charger Repair

Happy Easter! He is Risen!
In this video we repair the Ryobi P113 Charger. This charger would show all packs as defective even when my other wall mounted charger is charging them fine. We use DMM and ESR meter to locate the problem and after replacing component, the charger has been fully operational. We also spend a few minutes talking about ESR, Parallel Leaking and physically leaking caps.
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[@thomascameron2606]

This unit has a RECALL on it... Burn and Fire Hazard! Please see www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2013/one-world-technologies-recalls-ryobi-battery-chargers Appears from the website that Ryobi will send you a replacement unit. See the website, there are only certain units that are recalled. The Date code on the bottom of the unit is (Year/Week number) 0731 to 0852. Description: This recall involves Ryobi model P113 dual chemistry battery chargers designed for use with both NiCd and Li-Ion portable power tool batteries. Battery chargers included in this recall are green and grey and have "Ryobi" printed in white lettering on the front of the charger. The model number and date code can be found on the data plate located on the bottom of the charger. Model P113 chargers with year/week (YY/WW) date codes between 0731-0852, without a nine digit part number, are included in the recall.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks so much for adding this important Recall information!

[@nicholasphillips5406]

Thank you! I was about to spend time trying to fix mine and instead got on the phone with Ryobi and they’re sending a replacement!

[@strummergr]

My charger had developed an 'always testing' condition, red power light flashing whether or not a battery was inserted. I replaced C201 & 202, both of which showed domed tops. Those replacements fixed the problem, and we're back in business. I will certainly check into the recall situation for this model, as I saw a fairly well-scorched area on the pc board which may account for the recall. Thanks for the video! This page has become as close to a forum for these devices as I can find!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Awesome, thanks for your comment!

[@chrisgierszewski5753]

Thanks for the info. It was blinking red without battery installed, like it was stuck in test mode. I replaced C201 capacitor. Charger fixed. Capacitor was domed slightly. Easy and cheap.

[@michaelogden5958]

Yep. Just found the same two domed caps. Thanks for the video!

[@bentonwong4045]

Thanks very much for the video. It helps. My charger had the identical problem.

[@BlueRidgeMarine]

Nice job on the video. You do a good job on explaining for a common approach. Thumbing up.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks so much for your comment!

[@brentjohnson6654]

Thanks for your good videos. You are right “He is Risen”. I was looking for a P400 40v charger. I have a charging wall for all my Ryobi Batteries. I have 3 40v chargers on the wall and 3 18v also. One of the 40v fell off of the wall. It wasn’t put back correctly after being used at church for a work day. Anyway, the internal screws under the foot pads broke. Well the plastic broke. I am trying to find how to put it back together after I drill new screws in. The internal logic board doesn’t seem to be fastened in any way. Thanks again. God Bless.

[@edkirkpatrick1231]

Hey there! Great video. You have some great ideas and easy to follow. I have a P113 and the power light doesn't come on when plugged in. I took apart and there was some heat spot where positive lead comes in and the fuse was blown. I got some new fuses and installed and when plugged in it shorted again and blew fuse. Any suggestions or ideas appreciated!!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks for your comment. I would lean toward checking power components when fuse is blowing. The diodes and transistors (or switching chip) whichever it uses. I have not that same issue on the P113 but have had the Mosfet fail shorted on some models.

[@nicholasjohnson5752]

I've always wanted to learn how to work on this stuff but never knew where to start.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thirst for it is the start. I have had a desire to learn it for years and have always loved repairing things to extend the purpose or using the parts to make something else with new purpose. The more you work on things the more you learn. The main thing is to understand safety first and respect power and storage of power in large capacitors! Have fun!

[@gileliaselias4715]

good night, I have ryobi charger, failed to charge, turn on both leds, I know the primary has current, but in the outputs to have no current, can help

[@cotto887]

did you notice the bulged capacitor replace it

[@cotto887]

To thrifty : notice the bulged capacitor that's why the battery is not charging

[@chrissmith800]

Quick question iv got a ryobi p117 quick charger. And it won't charge my batterys and theres no lights that come on iv opened it and checked the AC/DC Converters Int Off-Line Switchr 86W/119W and it dosent looked burnt. H I don't see any burnt or hot spots. Anywhere on the board non of the capacitors. Are bloated could the offline switcher. Attached to the heat sink still be bad and not look like it's bad.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I am not familiar with the P117. I would do the first step you described above first also and maybe see if any fuses or PTC inline with the Input side along with checking the diodes or bridge rectifier as well?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I now have a P117 with issues after a bad storm the off line switcher is toast on mine. I have one ordered, but from eBay it will be a while on the finished video. Just wanted to mention that I had a similar issue. mine was obviously burned!

[@gillesrossi3904]

Comment écouter en français

[@pepereyes2209]

Hello, i have a problem with the CI101 it's burned and i can´t see his code, would you help me by providing the code? It's located next to principal capacitor of the power supply, exactly C105

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Yes, IC101 is a TOP247YN It is a TO220 packaged Offline Switcher. I have one of these ordered right now from eBay for another charger to finish a future video. It takes over a month on eBay to get these sometimes. If in a hurry you may need to get it elsewhere. I just don't like paying 3 or 4 times the cost of a component in shipping cost so I just order eBay free shipping, but it's not quick!

[@pepereyes2209]

@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you very much for your help and your recommendations.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@pepereyes2209 I am ordering one myself for a different charger from eBay. it will take a while to get but I am in no hurry. I believe a storm caused mine and no other obvious damage so I will try to replace it and see what happens since all other components check fine. With yours first realize that after this video a viewer posted and I pinned it, that these P113 chargers were recalled. I did not know that when I repaired mine and it's working fine, but just be aware of that. These may have had design flaws?

[@pepereyes2209]

@@ThriftyToolShed I'll keep that in mind, all other components look good.

[@Africanlubo]

I have a Ryobi charger that blew after plugging into a faulty 110 to 220 v transformer. How can I repair it?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

It all depends on what all is toasted. It could be as simple as a fuse, NTC or MOV but sometimes it even gets IC chips. I have not had same issue to repair on mine so I don't know more than that. Wish you luck!

[@CanuckTech]

I have the same charger but with a different issue. The green LEDs on both the charger & battery blink as if it's charging normally but the battery does not actually charge even after 2hrs. The battery voltage actually drops a bit after 2hrs probably due to the blinking LED. Any ideas on how to fix or if it's even possible to fix? Thanks

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I have not seen one do that, it sounds like all the connections are ok because it's trying to charge. Does it do multiple batteries the same way? I would have to see why proper voltage not getting to battery terminals, I would still check the electrolytic caps! Always, always be careful when dealing with mains voltage! Do what you can with out power and make sure capacitors are discharged! Best of luck!

[@CanuckTech]

@@ThriftyToolShed I don't have another battery to test, but when I hooked up the charger to a watt meter, it draws 0W when charging. I opened up the charger and none of the caps have gone bad, the design is slightly different than the one you repaired, they must've changed it after the recall. I gave up on it and picked up a cheap charger from the local classifieds: the P116 which has a 12W AC adapter separate from the main body. I was wondering if it's possible to upgrade it by replacing the stock AC adapter with a higher amperage one but with a slightly lower voltage: ~19-20v instead of 21v. My idea is to extend the longevity of the battery by never letting it charge to 100% and never discharging it below ~20%. I'm guessing the charger will keep trying to charge the battery with an input voltage below 21v, could that hurt the battery though if I left it plugged in?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@CanuckTech , In my opinion 21v is fine on the battery pack generally speaking. If the 18v (20v) pack which has 5 li-ion cells in series, the voltage per cells is 4.2v which is still ok, but on the high side of ok. You don't want to go much higher. But then again if the cells do get out of balance the voltages across the cells could shift also and some would be higher and some lower! I would absolutely check the cell after fully charged and monitor to see you if it creeps up!

[@gertraba4484]

@@ThriftyToolShed i think there was a recall on this charger, starts fires ............... healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2013/36465r-eng.php

[@bschonec]

I have the same problem. It is perpetually in 'charging' mode. I know the batteries are fine because they charge perfectly on a different Ryobi charger.

[@kellydunn2978]

yet you saw a bulged capacitor why wasn't that tested first ?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

It's been over 3 years ago, but I believe I was sharing how the other caps tested in circuit for the viewers who may have wanted to see that. I already had a good idea the bulged one was bad and I was going to replace it no matter how it tested, but I tested them all before heating up the soldering iron of course.