Timber Frame Barn 22 Twisted Timber Layout

On the timber frame barn project we have a timber that has a twist and some bad checking. Layout of this timber has to be different, otherwise the joinery will not be square with the rest of the timbers. These twisted timbers are not ideal, but must be used since I don't have a lot of extras laying around. I'll show you how to lay one out.
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[@efklijzing]

What a pleasant way of explaining and working. thank you sir, sincerely yours, Ernst, Amsterdam, the Netherlands

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

It's always so good to have a cat helping you out 😂

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

Yeah she is something alright!

[@jamiemckenzie8516]

Jim’s a good teacher ! Your doing a great job ! 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@chriscox6598]

Tim Good job on explaining the layout 👍. Keep the videos coming

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

Thank you Chris!

[@mikepapa3196]

Thanks for showing us that, been looking all over the net to figure this problem out! Great job you're doing

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

Thanks Mike! Be sure to spread the word so others can get the info they need.

[@JimDockrellWatertone]

I would have never thought of that. Very similar to making a guitar where the centre line is always the reference. Funny how totally different niches in woodworking have things in common.

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

Thanks Jim

[@pz5341]

Thank you so much for this video!! FINALLY! You are one of the first guys I've come across who has patiently explained the process of using snapped centerlines to deal with twisted timbers. Excellent explanation. Nick at "Fouch Family Off Grid" channel also touched on this too. So far you two guys have done an excellent job explaining this. NOW I can start my little timber frame with more confidence. My 4 x 4 timbers arrived today and they are not that straight. I'm nervous too as I don't have extra timbers. THANK YOU!!!!

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

Thank you! Don't be nervous, trust the layout and it will all fit. Remember the joints will line up with the layout, not necessarily the sides of each timber. In other words, they may look funny but that is ok

[@pz5341]

@@GreatPlainsCraftsman Well upon further examination of my small timber pile they are really really bowed twisted and out of square so much so that I don't even think snap lines will help let alone square rule. I'm trying to get them to take them back and get the money back too. They're gonna try and work this out they say, which is hopeful. Now I need to source better timbers somewhere here in southeastern Pennsylvania possibly. Ugh.

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

@@pz5341 Good luck. It is frustrating, but you can use timbers that aren't straight. You can also only order what you can cut in a few weeks at a time. When you have those cut and fitted together so the can't move, like maybe 1 bent, then order more and so on. that way all your Timbers are freshly cut and should be straight until you can get them fit together. Avoiding Timbers that are cut in the spring and summer can also help, trees cut in the winter tend to be more stable and the cooler temperatures keep the Timbers from twisting, they're going to twist in the summer heat.

[@Debtfreehomesteaders]

How to work with a twisted timber? Very nicely taught. I feel you explained it well. Glad to see your #timberframe come together. -Will

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

Thanks Will!

[@CleaveMountaineering]

I've been wondering how to do this, makes sense. Sure beats planing all those beams down to square................... Great explanation

[@vaultsjan]

On the tie beams do not forget that for this post the joinery is by centerline not from reference face. Looking forward to see how you place the boring machine etc to get the joinery square to chalklines. Good work!

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

Thank you for the tip!

[@vaultsjan]

Dont ask me how i had to learn this...

[@treetopflyersofva2]

I enjoy watching your channel not only for the timber framing but the views you have where you live are awesome.Thank you for showing that technique, you made it so easy. How old are those beams? Did you cut them or did someone cut them for you?

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

Got them from a sawmill in April John

[@rayhsetwo8594]

Good explanation good job!

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

Thank you Ray

[@AeonCatalyst]

I understand the general way to do this, although I would be tempted to orient the beam the way I want it to sit and use a plumb bob for "vertical" lines and a level for the "horizontal" cross. Then I could connect the crosses on all sides. I can also see that as long as you keep the horizontal plane level and your chisel/boring machine plumb, you are always on target. I'm not sure how to pull that off though. I'm mostly curious as to how you know where you can get away with this. If you are building a house, your posts/beams will all connect but they won't all be flush on one face, correct? Is this a big issue or mostly just aesthetics? Lastly, you could get really funky with this - I imagine drawing pentagons on each side so that you can find the "perfect pentagon" within the beam to create joinery for 5-sided structures, for example.

[@pz5341]

Hi GPC. How much does a timber need to be bowed or twisted or out of square for it to be deemed unusable? What if the timber is not symmetrically twisted meaning it is twisted more at one end than the other? My lumber that I received has some timbers that are bowed in 2 directions! Yikes. Some are tapered end to end slightly. A few are even bowed up to 3/4" to 5/8". I was hoping that my "perfect timber within" my 4 x 4's would be 3 1/2" square. Some of my timbers are 3 7/8" x 4 3/8" even. I hope they'll take these back and I could start over with another sawyer. I doubt it but we'll see. Thanks for your videos.

[@ccswede]

Good video. Do you have all your blacksmith equipment. Especially the forge and the metal flattner you built the concrete base for. Love to see them.

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

I do have the anvil, forge, forge blower, and hand tools. No power hammer yet. Will show them soon. Thanks for watching Lars!

[@pz5341]

Hi. Just curious as to what chalk line you would recommend when doing timber frame layout. I read that regular chalk lines make too thick of a line and that there are chalk lines that leave a much thinner and darker line when struck. Thanks. Paul

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

Hi Paul, a link to the chalk line is in the video description

[@pz5341]

Thanks! Going on my Christmas list.

[@pz5341]

When you strike the level lines (not the plumb ones) at each end of that timber how do you know that those two horiz lines are on the same plane? Did you ensure that the long horizontal line along the side of the timber, that connects to those two level lines, are level too? How did you do that?

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

The two lines on each end you set with a level and you're just going to have to trust the level ends to be on the same plane, and they should be very close. As far as the two lines on each side of the Timber no need to level them because they are connecting each corner of the level lines and that's all you need. Reference Each corner of the ends for that long snap line off of the center level line on each end. The most important step however is to ensure that the very center of the Timber is level so you have to shim each Twisted end and level the very center of the Timber cuz you're using the very center as your reference level plane.

[@GreatPlainsCraftsman]

When I say level I mean side to side not end end. Just level that Timber 8 in across

[@pz5341]

@@GreatPlainsCraftsman Gotcha. Thanks so much!!! Keep those videos coming. Great stuff. My wife loves your cat Charlie.