The 3 Common Stick Welding Electrodes Explained: 6013 vs 6010 vs 7018 Rods

[@jamesistrash557]

These videos are great, my old man has been a welder for 30 years and has always wanted to involve me in his work to be close with me. Being the dumb kid that I was I thought that working with your dad was lame. Now using these videos I’m spending my time learning my dad’s trade and now we are closer than ever. Definitely appreciate these videos.

[@djpenton779]

Nice. Based on some of Tim's earlier videos, I settled on 6011 for tacking, and 7018 for everything else. This is a useful combination for hobbyists / beginners. Trying to do a nice, small deep tack with 7018 is a PITA for me due to the relative difficulty of striking an arc. So 6011 is brilliant at this. Then, 7018 gives a huge advantage to a beginner in that you really can see the weld pool much better than with the others. I don't like 6013; can't see what I'm doing with the slag creeping up all the time. I recommend Tim's courses. I bought the package.

[@TimWelds]

Thanks! Those really are the winning combination.

[@tedbastwock3810]

Excellent thoughts, thanks for sharing this

[@warrenthomas1253]

I appreciate your clear and thorough explanation on everything subject matter you are discussing. I'll be joining your classes because I've self taught myself up to now but I'm ready now to get a complete understanding of technique to welding. Thank you for your effort

[@gregmonz697]

Thanks , you're AWESOME in explaining things for us MOMO's

[@gregmonz697]

Hey Tim , what do you think is the BEST 5 inc wire wheel for a hand held angle grinder ??I've tried several and they just don't last . Thanks Greg

[@Tubeagrutis]

Great info, Tim! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us!

[@jackdawg4579]

Love 6013, use it for all my hobby work when using stick. 7018 is hard to get here, I have to mail order it from specialty welding suppliers, local hardware's don't stock it. It is also quite expensive compared to 6013.

[@johncmitchell4941]

How about 7014? Not quite 7018 but can you get that?

[@ZILAwelds]

Nice job ! That HTP221 is one of the best but really under appreciated stick welders

[@TimWelds]

Thanks! I pulled the 221 out for the 6010, it packs a punch and is one of the smoothest machines ever made on both stick and TIG.

[@stefanm5636]

In Europe we have 6013 rc (rutile-celulose), you can run them downhill, 6010 and 6011 are not common here, 7018 is must if you are going to weld stracture.

[@TimWelds]

I've never heard of 6013 RC, but you've got me curious...

[@herrgerd1684]

Yeah I started on 6013RR but got frustrated quite quickly. Then I got myself some 6013RC and they're awesome. Mine are ESAB GoldRox...

[@nealesmith1873]

Very interesting. I looked into this and 6013 rb rutile basic also exists.

[@plewis4105]

Thank you Tim for explaining the use of 7018 at home. I've been learning with 7018 but was worried about using it at home. I prefer it to the other types you mentioned.

[@TimWelds]

It's my go to, a lot smoother and easier to read the puddle IMO.

[@bryanst.martin7134]

Good info. I like the flick! I resorted to tapping on concrete but it was 50/50 for a clean break.

[@JCTyler64]

Thank Tim - your video's are very helpful

[@nealesmith1873]

Here in Mexico, the 6013 that is readily available has green flux and it does not have these slag inclusions problems that are always mentioned with the gray flux 6013. It is very easy to run.

[@TimWelds]

I'm thinking I need to try some other brands of 6013. This is the cheapest stuff I could get from the big box store.

[@herrgerd1684]

​​@@TimWeldshey Tim. The real problem lies within the American AWS A5.1 nomenclature. It doesn't allow for a specific suffix here. Example: The European standard rod is a E6013RR double rutile coated (thick rutile). The proper EN ISO 2560-A code is E 42 0 RR 12. AWS code: E6013. A very different burning rod (hotter, more output) is the E6013RC rutile-cellulose coated version. EN ISO 2560-A code is E 42 0 RC 11. Often short "RC11". AWS A5.1 code is: again just E6013. I think that is the reason for the hate/love for 6013 in non Euro countries. Simply because there is different E6013 coatings which make for a very different rod burning. Welders don't use the EN ISO 2560-A codes much either around here, but usually just add the coating to the E6013 and/or search for RC11 or RR12...

[@elsart0]

@@herrgerd1684 About 6013: I too don't like the RR coating. With the RC variant the slag behave much better.

[@stefandumoulin1872]

I used to work on a dredge and gravel wash plant in the netherlands and we would use 7016 for most everything. Lovely stuff, i believe for all positions but very tough slag

[@TimWelds]

I haven't used 7016, though I think they had us run a couple joints with it in welding school. I'll have to pick some up and try it out.

[@raymundomarroquin7105]

Thank you! San Antonio, TX

[@briandale5645]

Great new video. Don't like what most people can't afford like the high tech stuff that you have provided to you . I could be wrong about that but If you can afford it great but most can't I don't think so . Keep giving us the poor man's video like the last two is great !

[@TimWelds]

Thanks! The fancy stuff is kind of fun, but honestly figuring out how to build stuff when I just had a few Harbor Freight tools was even more fun.

[@rrrrepairs]

I use that ‘7018’ on everything!

[@TimWelds]

100% 👨‍🏭

[@danteboban9930]

Great video i finally understand the different rod groups 6010 6011 7018 Could you do a video about the different kinds of arc welding rods that are used for non-ferrous precious metals? Thank you!

[@garthland]

I keep the lo-hi on my rig in tubes with dessicant packs-those little 'do not eat' packs. It really helps

[@6pekXX]

6013 is very smoothly running rod. I thik something with the machine ark force settings is wrong, too long of an arc is also a no no. Amps must be just enough, but not too high (makes spatter) because it's a slaggy rod.Try Böhler's FOX ETY. Nice video Tim!

[@TimWelds]

Thanks! The 6013 might have been just a bit hot in this case adding to the spatter. I'll have to check out those rods or at least some that are nicer than the ones I used, which are admittedly the cheapest 6013 rods that I could find.

[@melgross]

I just put desiccant in the package with the 7018 rods. That keeps them dry enough for non code work (for the rare times I stick weld).

[@TimWelds]

That's a good idea. I just use those sealed plastic containers, but some desiccant would be a step up.

[@miszced]

Not sure desiccant is of any advantage. Many of today's 7018's coatings are considered moisture resistant to H2O pickup. Yet, code regulations haven't caught up to newer filler metal technology. Still, reconditioning temperatures and/or holding temperatures are the standard practice.

[@melgross]

@ it helps. If the package is closed well, it absorbs moisture. Resistant to moisture is not moisture proof. And until otherwise stated, I’d rather add it. It’s cheap and easy.

[@2005Pilot]

Well Done! Thank You 😊👍👍

[@brianalbrecht4423]

one of the best basic info,explaned well for the laymen..that i've seen on the web...!.thank u...!..with your on line courses...do u recomend brands of weldors...price wise uses,pro,hobbie.ect...?.been out of the field since 1992...so im sure "a lot" has changed..?...thanks in advance...!

[@treyrags]

Good video. Have you found the purple strip discs to be better than the blue ones you've used before?

[@tedbastwock3810]

Thanks for the tip on those strip disks, looking forward to trying them out using your link. From northern tool I got something similar to those scotch brite type pads that are meant to go in a drill that you've suggested before, and they didn't come with an attachment bit or anything, and for the life of me I can't get them to stay in my dewalt drill, turning both cw or ccw. Any advice on that? The ones from NT have a small plastic stud helically shaped like a screw. I assumed that meant it was supposed to go in a bit, but the NT employee said just put it straight in the drill. Thanks Tim.

[@samuelscragg7052]

Thank you for your information.

[@4speed3pedals]

Tim, I have a question. Why would someone want to weld DC over AC and vice versa? Is it just due to the power of the machine or are there parameters welders use for a stronger weld or?? I have stick welded just a couple times and it was an experience that I would like to get better with so I do not know all the ins and outs.

[@TimWelds]

That's a great question. Generally speaking, DC is preferred because it is smoother and has less spatter. The main reason that you would run AC is if you have a buzz box transformer machine that only has AC output. One reason that you might want to run AC if you have both AC and DC available is to avoid arc blow. Arc blow is where a magnetic field interferes with your arc and makes a mess of the puddle, usually at the end of a weld joint and switching to AC eliminates it. There are other ways to control arc blow and if you come across it, Lincoln has a great article about it that's easy to google.

[@brieb5260]

7018 was always my favorite when I was in classes. It was always easier? I couldn’t for the life of me get any other stick to work with me as nicely (probably user error 😆)

[@tomt9543]

6013 slag inclusions? Try the ESAB Sure weld green 6013’s and that will cease to be a problem! Excellent electrodes! You MUST try them!

[@TimWelds]

I'll have to pick some of those up. A comparison could be a good video topic.

[@tomt9543]

@@TimWelds You’ll be impressed!

[@tomt9543]

@ 6013’s are not created equal by the different manufacturers! I’d noticed that on many of these welding videos from India, Pakistan etc that do this dot-dot-dot “welding” (?) they don’t get slag inclusions with 6013. After watching one that the guy was actually stringer beads that looked excellent, I commented about how terrible most 6013 are in the states, and questioned the brand of green 6013 he was using. He responded “ESAB”, and stated how different they were from other brands, but didn’t know if they were available outside of India. My local Airgas dealer didn’t stock them, but ordered them for me. Game changer for sure! I think Northern Tool sells them now also.

[@scottaddison8071]

Thanks

[@TimWelds]

Thanks for watching!

[@scottaddison8071]

@ just bought a Miller 400 big blue with Kubota diesel engine along with a Millermatic 252 mig welder. Both barely used for $5,000 for both. Now, I need to learn how to weld

[@TimWelds]

That's the deal of the year! There's not much you won't be able to do with that setup.

[@scottaddison8071]

@@TimWelds which online course would you advise to start with?

[@TimWelds]

They are all completely self contained, so you can work either the stick or MIG course first. If you are in a hurry to get something welded, MIG will be faster to learn and get you up and running with that 252. If you want to learn both and are okay with taking a little longer to learn, I'd start with stick. Stick takes a little more practice for most people, but lays a good foundation for other processes.

[@kevmicallef]

Does anyone happen to know the Japanese standards? DIY being less popular here, pretty much one brand which has one rod per metal type available. For mild steel it translates to "lime titanium" and the Japanese standard on the packet is "JIS/D4303". I can't find any conversion chart for Japanese standards though so I wonder which US/EU standard this would be equivalent to?

[@BwanaBob]

Just guessing, lime is basic and titania is rutile. So it sounds like a combination of a 7018 and 6013.

[@kevmicallef]

Thanks @BwanaBob I guess it's a bit moot as I don't really have any choice. They are the ones I taught myself with and the only ones I have available to use. I seem to do OK with them for my simple (non structural) projects. Would be nice to know what I'm working with though!

[@Moe_69]

Have you ever used an Eastwood m250 I elite? I’m thinking hard on getting my first welder but I’m not exactly sure if it’s a good machine or not? I value your opinion and would very much appreciate your advice.

[@tommcqueen3145]

👍👍 Have you ever heard of a Three pen weld structural steel beams

[@TimWelds]

I'm not familiar with that specific term. Maybe it's referring to position 3 (vertical) CJP (complete joint penetration), like a 3G?

[@therealspixycat]

Can you make a video on stick welding 1.0mm thick metal. I try to fabricate car panels and i have a very hard time because it solidifies so fast so that i get inclusions all the time. I use DCEN by the way and 1.6mm 6013 rods

[@azpcox]

For 7018, is the hotbox to keep out water or oxygen? Couldn’t you just use some good ol argon in a sealed box instead?

[@OtisFlint]

moisture

[@TimWelds]

I think it would be harder to evacuate and sufficiently seal a box than to just use a rod oven. A lot of them come in hermetically sealed containers and you can use them right out of the can for a period of time (usually 4 hours, but not always) before they have to be stored in an oven. ESAB has some that are packaged in small quantities so that you can use them up right after opening, then open the next small pack. If rods do sit out, you can bake them back out at a higher temperature than the storage temp and still get a low hydrogen deposit and comply with codes.

[@razortekcnc03]

Would you like to know about laser welding?

[@bryanthornton6787]

What's the difference between 6010, 6010 5P and 6010 5P+ ?

[@TheUltimate65]

Good videos then, Whats its difrent of 7016 S and 7018 i now the E 7016 its s mix of rulie / basic stick

[@TimWelds]

Thanks! I haven't done much with 7016, but I believe it's very similar to 7018 except that 7018 has iron powder in the flux and a slightly higher deposition rate.

[@highgatehandyman6479]

Its odd that the yanks scoff at 6013. I'm a newbie and can't tell the difference but 6013 seem ok . 7013 welds lovely but won't restrict reliably

[@jamesscully7108]

👀👍🇮🇪⚓

[@stephenthorpe8142]

125 amp 6013

[@MakeAndFixItYourSelfProjects]

6013 just doesn’t penetrate like 6010 and 6011, I really dislike 6013… 6010/6011 will always burn so much deeper.. especially if you are welding heavier material…