TINGER DOG BUILD - (AKA: SNOWDOG)

Video on the assembling of the Tinger Dog Pro Kit, with a 13HP Predator motor. Ordered the kits from Keno Tractors, out of Oregon. Picked up the motor from our local Harbor Freight. This is a great alternative to a snowmobile. Yes it is an all season, all-terrain vehicle, but I will be using it mainly for the ice fishing season to help pull the gear across the lake.
You can reach me at:
[e-mail]

[@Jerma75]

A few suggestions that has risen up from our TingerDog in the past 3 years of operation... 1) Loose the choke wire and lever on handlebars. Those are crap from the factory. Its way easier to operate the choke only on the side of the motor. No hassle at all. 2) Check the mounting bolts regularly on the main bearing for the driveshaft coming from the gearbox -> drive sprocket. These loosen up by themselves very easily, and I know of multiple Dogs that have broken the driveshaft due to this (ours included). 3) If you plan to use the Dog on any rough terrain that has any possibility of rocks or stomps to hit either side front corners (the left side bearing or the right side chain/sprocket, then fabricate a proper bumper or other protection. Don't want to snap the chain far in the woods (again from experience). 4) Put a limiter-strap (similar as on sleds) on the first roller-shaft from the front. These tend to flip back on rougher terrain, and can be put back on the go, but not that easy on deep snow. Also a lot of other small things that will (not IF) go wrong...

[@chaeuhlemann]

Thank you so much for this! I already removed the choke cable, much easier to do it by hand. And , one of our builds the front rollers keep flipping backwards.

[@ek5836]

I attempted to build one of these motor sleds from a blown up Polaris sled and a predator 6hp motor. It works enough to putts around the yard but vibrates like crazy. I'll probably just end up buying a kit or a complete build.

[@chaeuhlemann]

It was hard for me to sell the one I built. If I do build another, I will definitely put a larger CVT on.

[@Charles53412]

LOL, Put a Predator motor in it with some upgrades and some gear changes, and you'll have one fast machine! One that will even keep up with most snowmobiles!

[@johnky100]

Very cool, not alot of tinder dog vids out there. I was going to get a honda kit tinder but then found a great deal on a snowdog. Im seeing alot of sled bilds but its alot of tinkering. I can weld and i suppose its fun to tinker but i just wanna go ripp the 'dog rather than tinker.

[@chaeuhlemann]

We enjoyed making our own as well, it was hard seeing my build go when I sold it to my buddy. The 30 series cvt just isn’t a big enough belt to handle the track for long runs. If you do build your own, go with a bigger cvt (400 series)

[@wenull3]

I'd like one of these but with a Power Bee Engines 894EVK 2-Stroke!

[@chaeuhlemann]

You would be ripping!!

[@rustyreel2228]

Hi,I bought a new TingerDog last year,great machine, I have a question about the Hood. When I raise the Hood up shouldn't you be able to have it standing straight up on its own? mine won't do it and a couple of times it fell from trying to brace it up with my knee and each time it pulled my front light connector apart. I'd appreciate if you could let me know if I'm doing something wrong. Thx

[@chaeuhlemann]

Not sure if there are different models, but the three that we have, they do not hinge. The hood has a bracket that just slides into a slot, definitely a cheaper design

[@rustyreel2228]

Thx for the reply. Yea mine has that slot also. Surely a bad design but other then that this machine is awesome. Hope you do more Videos.

[@horstelporschtel9122]

There is actually another assembly video for the TingerDog. It has some interesting solutions, especially for installing the brake, and the choke. I know many people complain about the brake, and now I know why. His explanation makes sense. It keeps the control box too. Question why would you remove the oil sensor?! here is the other video kzbin.info/www/bejne/o4Wxap-MnamWaLM

[@chaeuhlemann]

We remove the oil sensors because we tip the motors hard for the turns. On the diy builds that we did, the oil sensors were shutting down the motors on the turns. We check the oil and know the oil levels are good so we remove the sensors. Thanks for letting me know about the other build video!

[@chaeuhlemann]

I just watched the video, would’ve definitely helped with our builds. The video did not go into the problems of the belt alignment like we came across though. Thanks for sharing

[@horstelporschtel9122]

@@chaeuhlemann Although I have SnowDogs and TingerDogs for years (with the Briggs&Straton and PrincessAuto ProPoint 420CC) I never experienced an oil shut down unless the machine was tipped over to the site. But we are mostly sitting in the machine unless we are grooming. I have, on the other hand, seen a self-made tracksled with a HondaGX390 engine with a removed oil sensor, which tipped over running. And while everyone was laughing after maybe 20-30sec the Engine popped/exploded. Some mechanics told us that if we have problems with this, we should increase the oil level by up to 15%, rather than removing the sensor.

[@horstelporschtel9122]

@@chaeuhlemann Maybe as the TingerDog is built for Honda Clones, the Predator is slightly different? Anyway, I was recommended, to if I ever have such problems with any Honda Clone, to some shim washers in between the driven clutch and the gearbox, to fix the miss-alignment or off-alignment issues, because you shift the engine to the side and make it easier to tip over in that direction otherwise.

[@chaeuhlemann]

@@horstelporschtel9122 we only shifted it 1/8” - 1/4”. Not feeling any different with the weight shifting to one side or the other. Haven’t had any issues with our homemade ones, or the 3 Tinger dogs we put together .

[@austinitor]

Did you get your kit through Bike Wizard, or direct from Keno Tractors?

[@chaeuhlemann]

Direct from Keno Tractors. We went through Trevor. Very nice and easy to work with.

[@pianoman8t8]

Wow, you had to move the motor over that far? Did you shorten the clutch key enough? I ended up at about 7/8" overall length on the drive clutch key to get the clutch fully seated. Then took secondary clutch apart, removed spacer between the shivs, added a bolt and washer to hold secondary clutch spring in place so it doesn't pop out, and added about a 3/16 shim between secondary shim and gearbox. Then made a shim for the outer end of the secondary so it fit the belt better.

[@chaeuhlemann]

We cut the key to 1.5” and it was fully seated. After our first build, found it easier to open up the holes for the motor mounts giving about 1/4” more play to align the pulleys. Worked out nice and easier than shimming .

[@pianoman8t8]

@@chaeuhlemann in hindsight that is definitely the easier way to go

[@pianoman8t8]

@@chaeuhlemann what belt did yours come with? Mine definitely sat a bit "inside" on the secondary causing a bit more slack than I wanted. Removed a spacer between the shivs and this corrected it. The primary has more width brush the shivs than I'd like too, but both these things could be solved with a wider belt.

[@chaeuhlemann]

@@pianoman8t8 the belt is 30x14-1120 la

[@pianoman8t8]

Mine is the same, minus the LA. Been wanting to try out a couple others. Maybe this winter...

[@JonahGumpenberger]

Hello, we bought a tinger dog just like this, and the predator 420 cc engine to mount in. I’m having an issue that’s very hard to explain. Anyway I can call you or FaceTime to show you? That would be much appreciated. Could be just a quick answer. I hope. Let me know and I can drop my number in the comments for a call. We’re in the fire department and we bought the machine to help us with our pile burning operations. Thank you

[@chaeuhlemann]

email me your cell, [e-mail]

[@chaeuhlemann]

What’s your number? Hopefully I can help